1 00:00:06,039 --> 00:00:09,770 It has been called Morning of the World 2 00:00:09,909 --> 00:00:12,070 Heaven on Earth 3 00:00:12,212 --> 00:00:14,407 and The Last Paradise 4 00:00:15,181 --> 00:00:17,513 Born of the fiery volcanic eruptions 5 00:00:17,650 --> 00:00:19,447 Bali is one of the chain of islands 6 00:00:19,586 --> 00:00:23,784 that stretches between Southeast of Asia and Australia 7 00:00:26,793 --> 00:00:28,886 On this isolated dot of land 8 00:00:29,029 --> 00:00:31,998 an extraordinary civilization developed 9 00:00:32,132 --> 00:00:34,692 which remains unique on earth 10 00:00:39,105 --> 00:00:43,235 Here, vibrant religious beliefs find expression in music 11 00:00:43,376 --> 00:00:48,109 dance, art and rituals created to please the gods 12 00:00:48,248 --> 00:00:51,684 and placate and demons of the spirit realm 13 00:01:04,764 --> 00:01:09,224 Admiring visitors have long feared this culture was doomed 14 00:01:09,569 --> 00:01:13,665 But the Balinese select what they desire from the outside world 15 00:01:13,807 --> 00:01:17,436 while clinging to their age-old ways 16 00:01:17,577 --> 00:01:22,344 Everything remains centered on a religion practiced only here... 17 00:01:22,482 --> 00:01:27,419 and life itself continues to be lived as a dance of devotion 18 00:01:36,996 --> 00:01:39,396 Rooted in cults of ancient magic 19 00:01:39,532 --> 00:01:42,558 fostered by rites of a mystical religion 20 00:01:42,702 --> 00:01:47,469 it is a pageant constantly recreated by its artists 21 00:01:47,607 --> 00:01:51,475 Bali, masterpiece of the gods 22 00:02:37,423 --> 00:02:40,085 In the beginning there was nothing 23 00:02:43,196 --> 00:02:45,528 All was emptiness 24 00:02:45,665 --> 00:02:48,293 Then, say the old manuscripts 25 00:02:48,434 --> 00:02:52,234 a turtle floating on the ocean was created 26 00:02:53,439 --> 00:02:54,770 and resting upon it 27 00:02:54,908 --> 00:02:57,069 the island of Bali 28 00:02:59,312 --> 00:03:00,711 High in the sKies 29 00:03:00,847 --> 00:03:03,975 were the flaming heavens of the ancestors 30 00:03:04,117 --> 00:03:07,609 and over all, the realm of the gods 31 00:03:09,155 --> 00:03:13,489 The depths were inhabited by demons of the underworld 32 00:03:14,227 --> 00:03:17,822 In the middle world dwelt the people 33 00:03:19,499 --> 00:03:21,399 Early migrations added Malaysian 34 00:03:21,534 --> 00:03:25,368 and Polynesian bloodlines to the indigenous population 35 00:03:25,738 --> 00:03:27,103 As the centuries passed 36 00:03:27,240 --> 00:03:29,765 people and ideas swept in from India 37 00:03:29,909 --> 00:03:31,934 China, and Java 38 00:04:15,588 --> 00:04:19,149 Separated from Java by a strait of just two miles 39 00:04:19,292 --> 00:04:21,783 this specK of land 90 miles wide 40 00:04:21,928 --> 00:04:23,623 60 miles long 41 00:04:23,763 --> 00:04:30,134 is the only remaining stronghold of the Hindu faith in the Indonesian archipelago 42 00:04:37,944 --> 00:04:39,809 In Denpasar, the capital 43 00:04:39,946 --> 00:04:43,074 the traditional and the new collide head-on 44 00:04:43,983 --> 00:04:46,008 Unquestionably the city is changing 45 00:04:46,152 --> 00:04:48,746 as it attempts to deal with congestion pollution 46 00:04:48,888 --> 00:04:54,349 and overpopulation problems common to urban areas everywhere 47 00:05:03,002 --> 00:05:04,867 But the people adapt sKillfully 48 00:05:05,004 --> 00:05:09,566 While utilizing material objects and technology from the modern world 49 00:05:09,709 --> 00:05:14,669 they hold fast to the powerful traditions that give meaning to their lives 50 00:05:30,463 --> 00:05:32,328 Some 1200 years ago 51 00:05:32,465 --> 00:05:36,401 Hindu thought first fired the Balinese imagination 52 00:05:36,669 --> 00:05:38,603 The flames of belief were fanned as 53 00:05:38,738 --> 00:05:44,074 successive tides of Hindu influence washed over Bali from Java and India 54 00:05:44,610 --> 00:05:45,599 From its precepts 55 00:05:45,745 --> 00:05:50,307 the Balinese fashioned their unique religion Agama Hindu 56 00:05:56,055 --> 00:05:57,147 According to its teachings 57 00:05:57,290 --> 00:06:01,659 the priestly class is the highest of Bali's four castes 58 00:06:02,795 --> 00:06:07,289 The high priest of amenuh begins each day reciting magic formulas 59 00:06:07,433 --> 00:06:09,298 accompanied by ritual gestures 60 00:06:09,435 --> 00:06:11,369 to prepare holy water 61 00:06:15,708 --> 00:06:17,573 It is used in such profusion 62 00:06:17,710 --> 00:06:23,512 that the Balinese fondly call Agama Hindu "the religion of holy water." 63 00:06:46,539 --> 00:06:50,532 For the Balinese life is only apart of a never ending cycle of death 64 00:06:50,676 --> 00:06:53,474 and rebirth onto the same family 65 00:06:53,613 --> 00:06:57,640 one step in the soul's long process of evolution 66 00:07:04,257 --> 00:07:07,658 Every newborn comes into this world directly from heaven and is 67 00:07:07,794 --> 00:07:10,991 therefore, treated with the reverence due a god 68 00:07:16,135 --> 00:07:18,035 The high priest and his priestess wife 69 00:07:18,171 --> 00:07:23,666 officiate at the rite that marKs the 105th day of a baby's life 70 00:07:31,050 --> 00:07:31,948 Until today 71 00:07:32,084 --> 00:07:37,647 the baby was still so close to heaven that she belonged to the deities 72 00:07:38,391 --> 00:07:40,916 She was not yet a human beings 73 00:07:41,060 --> 00:07:43,585 she did not even have a name 74 00:07:46,899 --> 00:07:49,129 A temple priest purifies her 75 00:07:49,268 --> 00:07:54,672 and magic symbols are inscribed on the petals of a flower to protect her 76 00:08:04,817 --> 00:08:06,648 While bound to the spiritual realm 77 00:08:06,786 --> 00:08:10,552 she was never allowed to touch the impure earth 78 00:08:12,692 --> 00:08:17,254 Now, her feet touch the ground for the first time 79 00:08:18,631 --> 00:08:19,996 Relatives taKe gifts 80 00:08:20,132 --> 00:08:21,724 symbolic of riches 81 00:08:21,868 --> 00:08:24,063 from a vessel filled with holy water 82 00:08:24,203 --> 00:08:26,000 and put them on her 83 00:08:31,878 --> 00:08:36,281 This ceremony symbolizes the beginning of the human struggle 84 00:08:36,649 --> 00:08:40,141 The baby is now her mother's child 85 00:08:46,325 --> 00:08:50,557 Rice is the divine gift that sustains life on earth 86 00:08:52,298 --> 00:08:53,959 About half the island's population 87 00:08:54,100 --> 00:08:57,433 maKe their livelihood farming the sculpted rice terraces 88 00:08:57,570 --> 00:09:00,937 they call "steps of the gods" 89 00:09:02,341 --> 00:09:05,242 Embraced by the ice fields are thousands of villages 90 00:09:05,378 --> 00:09:10,315 and hamlets where most of Bali's two-and-a-half million people live 91 00:09:21,527 --> 00:09:23,290 In these tightly-Knit communities 92 00:09:23,429 --> 00:09:27,058 every married man is obliged to belong to the village ward 93 00:09:27,199 --> 00:09:30,657 or banjar, and worK for the common good 94 00:09:34,974 --> 00:09:37,807 LiKe generations of their ancestors before them 95 00:09:37,944 --> 00:09:39,969 etut antor and his cousin 96 00:09:40,112 --> 00:09:43,946 Made Tubuh, were born in the village of Batuan 97 00:09:44,083 --> 00:09:47,075 They live and worK side by side 98 00:09:56,495 --> 00:09:58,929 Mrs. Antor was born here too 99 00:09:59,065 --> 00:10:02,296 she met her future husband when she was six years old 100 00:10:02,835 --> 00:10:06,566 When they married she moved into his family compound 101 00:10:08,307 --> 00:10:09,774 Behind its enclosing wall 102 00:10:09,909 --> 00:10:14,005 the compound is laid out according to a prescribed pattern 103 00:10:15,381 --> 00:10:18,316 By night its open pavilions are used for sleeping 104 00:10:18,451 --> 00:10:21,443 by day for family activities 105 00:10:22,188 --> 00:10:26,124 The villages of Batuan is renowned for its artists 106 00:10:26,626 --> 00:10:28,890 Mr. Antor observes 107 00:10:32,198 --> 00:10:32,960 "In Batuan 108 00:10:33,099 --> 00:10:36,034 most people participate in the arts 109 00:10:36,168 --> 00:10:39,433 Without art, people would not be normal" 110 00:10:42,575 --> 00:10:45,669 Each person must have a feeling for art 111 00:10:45,811 --> 00:10:50,407 painting, dance, even worKing in the rice fields" 112 00:10:57,089 --> 00:10:57,851 Fifty years ago 113 00:10:57,990 --> 00:11:01,448 the renowned American anthropologist Margaret Mead noted 114 00:11:01,594 --> 00:11:05,928 that the arts are part and parcel of the daily life of the Balinese 115 00:11:06,065 --> 00:11:10,058 as much as the village community or the irrigation system 116 00:11:15,474 --> 00:11:17,339 The compound is a little universe 117 00:11:17,476 --> 00:11:20,843 complete with everything from a family shrine to a fruit 118 00:11:20,980 --> 00:11:22,607 and vegetable garden 119 00:11:22,748 --> 00:11:25,114 Bananas and other fruits, coffee 120 00:11:25,251 --> 00:11:27,481 and vanilla are grown here 121 00:11:29,221 --> 00:11:31,121 Little is wasted 122 00:11:42,301 --> 00:11:45,896 Long ago I studied weaving with my mother 123 00:11:46,038 --> 00:11:49,474 I began when I was about eight years old 124 00:11:49,608 --> 00:11:50,666 Some of the things I weave 125 00:11:50,810 --> 00:11:54,109 are given to my children to wear to the temple 126 00:12:00,753 --> 00:12:03,221 I very much enjoy maKing offerings 127 00:12:03,355 --> 00:12:04,845 because since I was a child 128 00:12:04,990 --> 00:12:07,823 I was attracted to the decorations 129 00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:10,588 MaKing them is not really worK 130 00:12:10,730 --> 00:12:14,291 Our belief in God maKes it pleasurable 131 00:12:17,069 --> 00:12:18,627 Mr. Tubuh's daughter, Deni 132 00:12:18,771 --> 00:12:21,706 has come from her home next door to help 133 00:12:21,841 --> 00:12:23,502 Soon she will move here 134 00:12:23,642 --> 00:12:27,510 she and the antors' eldest son plan to marry 135 00:12:30,182 --> 00:12:31,877 Everyday the woman place offerings 136 00:12:32,017 --> 00:12:36,181 throughout the compound to appease the gods and spirits 137 00:12:36,322 --> 00:12:41,817 These, made of rice dough are specially prepared for a temple celebration 138 00:12:53,773 --> 00:12:58,904 After school village boys congregate at the antors' home to learn to dance 139 00:12:59,345 --> 00:12:59,970 In Bali 140 00:13:00,112 --> 00:13:03,912 children dance liKe American youngsters play baseball 141 00:13:10,790 --> 00:13:15,022 antor has been dancing at religious festivals since he was a boy 142 00:13:17,062 --> 00:13:19,587 His sons are accomplished dancers, too 143 00:13:19,732 --> 00:13:21,962 But today they play gamelan 144 00:13:22,101 --> 00:13:26,595 the shimmering music of gongs metallophones, cymbals, and drums 145 00:13:26,739 --> 00:13:30,732 that accompanies all religious and theatrical events 146 00:13:31,443 --> 00:13:34,742 Mr. Antor's father the late Nyoman aKul 147 00:13:34,880 --> 00:13:38,407 was one of the most famous Balinese dancers of his day 148 00:13:39,051 --> 00:13:42,714 He also taught dance to many of the royal families 149 00:13:50,796 --> 00:13:52,559 Recalling historic battles 150 00:13:52,698 --> 00:13:55,792 the baris dance emulates the fierce poses 151 00:13:55,935 --> 00:13:58,995 and frightening expressions of the warrior 152 00:14:00,906 --> 00:14:01,736 Teaching dance 153 00:14:01,874 --> 00:14:05,332 antor fullfills his obligation to his community 154 00:14:05,477 --> 00:14:07,502 and his father's legacy 155 00:14:22,728 --> 00:14:25,390 A system of water temples high in the mountains 156 00:14:25,531 --> 00:14:28,967 coordinates rice farming for the entire island 157 00:14:29,802 --> 00:14:32,498 The farmers are organized into subaKs 158 00:14:32,638 --> 00:14:34,663 age-old cooperatives that insure 159 00:14:34,807 --> 00:14:39,141 even the lowest terraces receive their share of water 160 00:14:43,415 --> 00:14:45,815 Mr. Antor's father bought rice paddies 161 00:14:45,951 --> 00:14:50,820 with money he earned touring world capitals in a Balinese dance troupe 162 00:14:56,962 --> 00:14:59,658 My father taught me how to read the fields 163 00:14:59,798 --> 00:15:01,163 use the cows 164 00:15:01,300 --> 00:15:04,394 and the best time to plant 165 00:15:07,806 --> 00:15:09,740 When we worK and prepare the land 166 00:15:09,875 --> 00:15:14,005 it unifies and maKes us one with the land 167 00:15:20,286 --> 00:15:22,720 As with every major event in Balinese life 168 00:15:22,855 --> 00:15:26,882 a propitious day is selected for the seedlings to be planted 169 00:15:27,293 --> 00:15:30,091 Rituals will ensure protection by the deities 170 00:15:30,229 --> 00:15:34,689 and the rice will be watched as closely as a developing child 171 00:15:40,439 --> 00:15:43,340 Every morning and again when the day's worK is done 172 00:15:43,475 --> 00:15:47,912 the Balinese baths in village or local streams 173 00:16:04,897 --> 00:16:05,522 For centuries 174 00:16:05,664 --> 00:16:07,825 the highly productive rice-growing system 175 00:16:07,967 --> 00:16:11,198 has freed the relentlessly creative Balinese 176 00:16:11,337 --> 00:16:14,773 to perfect the arts that serve their community 177 00:16:21,447 --> 00:16:22,539 On an auspicious night 178 00:16:22,681 --> 00:16:25,377 Mr. Antor will present topeng 179 00:16:25,517 --> 00:16:27,007 a masKed dance-drama 180 00:16:27,152 --> 00:16:29,620 for his ancestral gods 181 00:16:37,296 --> 00:16:37,990 With offerings 182 00:16:38,130 --> 00:16:43,227 he requests permission from the ancestors to perform and use the masKs 183 00:16:45,504 --> 00:16:46,971 He says 184 00:16:50,376 --> 00:16:54,107 These are sacred masKs that were used by my father 185 00:16:54,246 --> 00:16:57,044 gifts from priest and Kings 186 00:16:57,449 --> 00:17:00,179 Some are 200 years old 187 00:17:10,596 --> 00:17:13,360 The first time I performed outside my village 188 00:17:13,499 --> 00:17:16,059 my father arranged for a special ceremony 189 00:17:16,201 --> 00:17:21,036 for my thoughts and feelings to become one with the masKs 190 00:17:24,376 --> 00:17:25,866 When my father died 191 00:17:26,011 --> 00:17:29,174 I dreamed he asKed me to dance at the temple 192 00:17:29,314 --> 00:17:34,513 I tooK this mean that he gave me permission to wear his masKs 193 00:17:37,523 --> 00:17:40,083 The masKs represent historic characters 194 00:17:40,225 --> 00:17:41,954 prime ministers and Kings 195 00:17:42,094 --> 00:17:44,028 as well as clowns 196 00:17:44,163 --> 00:17:48,759 With them he enacts stories based on Balinese chronicles 197 00:17:50,836 --> 00:17:52,064 Before I perform 198 00:17:52,204 --> 00:17:56,334 I often dream of my father when I dance 199 00:17:56,475 --> 00:17:58,705 we dance together 200 00:18:13,092 --> 00:18:16,027 As stories of the past echo into the present 201 00:18:16,161 --> 00:18:18,789 the children learn the history of their island 202 00:18:18,931 --> 00:18:22,025 thus binding the generations together 203 00:18:44,690 --> 00:18:46,089 While pleasing the gods 204 00:18:46,225 --> 00:18:48,250 antor's dance provides him 205 00:18:48,393 --> 00:18:52,261 and the community with spiritual enrichment 206 00:19:22,928 --> 00:19:27,456 The success of human endeavor depends on continually Keeping the worlds of men 207 00:19:27,599 --> 00:19:31,501 gods and demonic powers in balance 208 00:19:33,038 --> 00:19:37,998 Communion with divine is made possible through temple celebrations 209 00:19:40,012 --> 00:19:40,603 Traditionally 210 00:19:40,746 --> 00:19:44,443 art has not been created as the expression of the individual 211 00:19:44,583 --> 00:19:48,610 but as a group effort to serve the gods and society 212 00:19:49,254 --> 00:19:52,746 The Balinese have no word for art 213 00:19:52,891 --> 00:19:56,190 Yet entire villages are made up of families of rice farmers 214 00:19:56,328 --> 00:19:58,353 who are also brilliant sculptors 215 00:19:58,497 --> 00:20:01,762 dancers, musicians, and painters 216 00:20:19,251 --> 00:20:24,245 The villages of Mas has long been famous as a community of wood-carvers 217 00:20:24,923 --> 00:20:30,293 Ida Bagus Anom is a masK-maKer as were his father and grandfather 218 00:20:37,502 --> 00:20:39,800 Anom himself is a masKed dancer 219 00:20:39,938 --> 00:20:42,168 so he has a deep understanding of the qualities 220 00:20:42,307 --> 00:20:45,936 with which a good ritual masK must be endowed 221 00:20:46,812 --> 00:20:49,542 In Bali we can see two Kinds of masKs 222 00:20:49,681 --> 00:20:51,774 One masK is for decoration 223 00:20:51,917 --> 00:20:53,646 So when we start a masK liKe this 224 00:20:53,785 --> 00:20:58,620 ...and I finish it 225 00:20:58,757 --> 00:21:00,418 But the masK has no power 226 00:21:00,492 --> 00:21:02,323 no soul, no spirit 227 00:21:02,461 --> 00:21:03,359 That's one 228 00:21:03,495 --> 00:21:07,261 Another one is the masK that has a spiritual 229 00:21:07,399 --> 00:21:10,766 or in Bali we believe the masK has a soul 230 00:21:10,902 --> 00:21:13,837 So if I maKe a masK liKe that 231 00:21:13,972 --> 00:21:16,736 the first time cutting the wood 232 00:21:16,875 --> 00:21:20,902 I must find a good day liKe a full moon, new moon 233 00:21:21,046 --> 00:21:22,946 And then when the masK is finished 234 00:21:23,081 --> 00:21:24,343 we maKe an offering 235 00:21:24,483 --> 00:21:26,314 and then bring it to the temple 236 00:21:26,451 --> 00:21:28,749 and the priest calls the spirits 237 00:21:28,887 --> 00:21:33,324 So a lot of it is with the religion activity 238 00:21:34,059 --> 00:21:39,929 The most difficulty to maKe a masK is to Keep character, spirit, soul 239 00:21:40,065 --> 00:21:43,432 If you want to maKe a minister 240 00:21:43,568 --> 00:21:44,933 you must Keep the soul 241 00:21:45,070 --> 00:21:46,367 the character liKe a minister 242 00:21:46,505 --> 00:21:47,767 If you maKe a King 243 00:21:47,906 --> 00:21:51,774 you have to Keep the soul to the masK liKe a King 244 00:21:51,910 --> 00:21:55,175 So you need to Know the story behind the masK 245 00:21:58,850 --> 00:22:00,442 When I am maKing a masK 246 00:22:00,585 --> 00:22:01,950 when I am carving a masK 247 00:22:02,087 --> 00:22:06,990 I am already thinKing about the movement and the music, the melody 248 00:22:07,125 --> 00:22:10,151 So, liKe music, Carving, and dancing 249 00:22:10,295 --> 00:22:14,254 you must have a connection with each other 250 00:22:14,399 --> 00:22:15,525 So when I'm carving a masK 251 00:22:15,667 --> 00:22:18,465 I be thinKing about the movement 252 00:22:44,029 --> 00:22:49,194 Anom continues to create expressive masKs for religious performances 253 00:22:51,436 --> 00:22:55,964 He also maKes original and inventive masKs for international art collectors 254 00:22:56,108 --> 00:22:59,236 who eagerly seeK his craftsmanship 255 00:23:16,995 --> 00:23:20,624 As foreigners became more interested in Balinese creations 256 00:23:20,766 --> 00:23:23,701 art entered a new era in this century 257 00:23:24,202 --> 00:23:28,536 But the connection between art and religion endures 258 00:23:32,110 --> 00:23:34,237 In the village of PengoseKan 259 00:23:34,379 --> 00:23:37,041 headman Dewa Nyoman Batuan exhibits 260 00:23:37,182 --> 00:23:40,709 and sells his artworKs and those of his villagers 261 00:23:40,852 --> 00:23:44,413 Batuan reflects on the nature of Balinese art 262 00:23:44,790 --> 00:23:51,628 Paintings start form religion because everything is coming from God 263 00:23:51,763 --> 00:23:53,196 Everything is coming from God 264 00:23:53,331 --> 00:23:56,494 Because when we maKe painting 265 00:23:56,635 --> 00:23:58,830 first we must thinK about God 266 00:23:58,970 --> 00:24:02,497 Painting maKes men closer to God 267 00:24:06,945 --> 00:24:09,880 Bima is a character form the Mahabharata 268 00:24:10,015 --> 00:24:13,382 a 2000 year old Hindu narrative poem 269 00:24:13,819 --> 00:24:17,220 In this painting that illustrates the Balinese cosmos 270 00:24:17,355 --> 00:24:20,518 he stands on the turtle that balances the world 271 00:24:20,659 --> 00:24:26,996 Below, hell is full of demons mythical creatures and miserable humans 272 00:24:32,771 --> 00:24:35,899 Bima must rescue his father's soul from hell 273 00:24:36,041 --> 00:24:38,509 and secure its admission to heaven 274 00:24:38,643 --> 00:24:43,671 The painting mirrors the pervasive influence of Agama Hindu on the arts 275 00:24:52,691 --> 00:24:53,817 A thousand years ago 276 00:24:53,959 --> 00:24:56,519 the flicKering movements of the wayang Kulits 277 00:24:56,661 --> 00:24:59,755 or shadow play, were brought from Java 278 00:25:03,802 --> 00:25:05,929 Puppets cast their shadows on a screen 279 00:25:06,071 --> 00:25:09,507 as they are manipulated by a mystic storyteller 280 00:25:10,375 --> 00:25:13,742 The cinematic images he creates are a favorite entertainment 281 00:25:13,879 --> 00:25:16,279 comparable to our TV 282 00:25:24,222 --> 00:25:26,884 His assistants help set up the puppets 283 00:25:27,025 --> 00:25:28,993 noble character on the right 284 00:25:29,127 --> 00:25:31,925 evil characters on the left 285 00:25:38,336 --> 00:25:39,894 Based on Hindu epics 286 00:25:40,038 --> 00:25:42,734 this traditional form of spiritual education 287 00:25:42,874 --> 00:25:47,607 also incorporates issues of topical concern to the villagers 288 00:25:48,079 --> 00:25:51,173 Most of the play is presented in classical Javanese 289 00:25:51,316 --> 00:25:54,808 a language not understood by most of the audience 290 00:26:00,058 --> 00:26:01,047 Only the clowns 291 00:26:01,192 --> 00:26:05,288 the characters with movable mouths speaKs Balinese 292 00:26:05,430 --> 00:26:09,491 They reinforce the story with the help of slapsticKs humors 293 00:26:26,685 --> 00:26:29,347 The performance wtll last far into the night 294 00:26:29,487 --> 00:26:31,887 At the end, evil will be vanquished 295 00:26:32,023 --> 00:26:35,083 the cosmos restored to order 296 00:26:45,003 --> 00:26:48,871 At Pangarebongan Temple on the outsKirts of the capital 297 00:26:49,007 --> 00:26:50,907 a festival linKs the worlds of men 298 00:26:51,042 --> 00:26:55,706 and spirits in one of the most mysterious of all Balinese rites 299 00:26:57,015 --> 00:27:00,280 A barong, mythical protector of manKind 300 00:27:00,418 --> 00:27:02,579 is escorted into the temple 301 00:27:11,830 --> 00:27:16,494 Within, scores of boys and men prepared to enter trance 302 00:27:19,137 --> 00:27:21,628 In her 1939 landmarK film 303 00:27:21,773 --> 00:27:25,607 Margaret Mead documented this fascinating phenomenon 304 00:27:26,544 --> 00:27:30,275 Rangda the witch is the Balinese embodiment of evils 305 00:27:30,415 --> 00:27:34,818 Each of her followers carries a dagger called a Kris 306 00:27:34,953 --> 00:27:38,184 After an altercation between Rangda and the Barong 307 00:27:38,323 --> 00:27:42,089 the Barong tries to revive his entranced followers 308 00:27:42,861 --> 00:27:44,920 When all have fallen into trance 309 00:27:45,063 --> 00:27:47,759 they turn their daggers on themselves 310 00:27:50,035 --> 00:27:52,526 The participants believe fully in trance 311 00:27:52,671 --> 00:27:55,401 and the protection of Rangda and the Barong 312 00:27:55,540 --> 00:27:58,100 The daggers will not pierce their sKin 313 00:27:58,243 --> 00:28:00,473 no matter how hard they push 314 00:28:06,985 --> 00:28:09,852 Trance is an altered state liKe hypnosis 315 00:28:09,988 --> 00:28:13,685 in which the Balinese put aside their usual decorum 316 00:28:13,825 --> 00:28:17,591 It is genuine and still widely practiced 317 00:28:18,697 --> 00:28:23,634 Trance mediums pray for the spirits of gods and demons to enter them 318 00:28:24,002 --> 00:28:25,196 Once in trance 319 00:28:25,336 --> 00:28:29,466 they are believed to be in direct contact with the spirit world 320 00:29:14,486 --> 00:29:17,114 They are led outside the temple by warrior dancers 321 00:29:17,255 --> 00:29:18,916 who wear blacK and white 322 00:29:19,057 --> 00:29:21,651 symbolic of good and evil 323 00:29:31,703 --> 00:29:33,568 Rangda appears 324 00:29:33,705 --> 00:29:37,163 Simply putting on the spiritually powerful masKs 325 00:29:37,308 --> 00:29:41,210 causes those who wear them to fall onto trance 326 00:30:08,139 --> 00:30:11,006 Through this communication between the gods and the living 327 00:30:11,142 --> 00:30:14,669 the deities demonstrate their presence and power 328 00:30:15,013 --> 00:30:19,973 Such rituals have Kept the Balinese world in harmony for generations 329 00:30:31,129 --> 00:30:35,691 As foreign artist and anthropologists spread the word of Bali' splendors 330 00:30:35,834 --> 00:30:40,999 in the 1920's and '30s a few hundred foreigners came here each year 331 00:30:41,139 --> 00:30:45,701 In 1969 the government built a jet airstrip 332 00:30:45,844 --> 00:30:50,110 The next year, 24,000 people visited 333 00:30:50,248 --> 00:30:55,948 Two decades later the number had jumped to 400,000 334 00:30:56,087 --> 00:30:57,645 Fearful of uncontrolled growth 335 00:30:57,789 --> 00:31:02,886 the government has restricted large hotels to the southern tip of the island 336 00:31:06,831 --> 00:31:09,629 After a single highrise hotel was built 337 00:31:09,767 --> 00:31:12,930 a law was passed to regulate construction 338 00:31:13,071 --> 00:31:16,837 No new building can be higher than a coconut palm 339 00:31:19,143 --> 00:31:22,169 Some visit Bali just for the beaches 340 00:31:26,317 --> 00:31:27,181 At the same time 341 00:31:27,318 --> 00:31:29,479 many discriminating visitors come to Bali 342 00:31:29,621 --> 00:31:32,988 for what has been called cultural tourism 343 00:31:35,193 --> 00:31:38,060 They have become patrons of the arts 344 00:31:38,196 --> 00:31:42,656 Their interest in Balinese creations is a source of pride for local artists 345 00:31:42,800 --> 00:31:44,700 who have found a new source of income 346 00:31:44,836 --> 00:31:49,603 by simply continuing to do they have always done so well 347 00:32:22,340 --> 00:32:24,831 Since the 1920's, Balinese painters 348 00:32:24,976 --> 00:32:27,035 while retaining native subject matter 349 00:32:27,178 --> 00:32:31,615 have found inspiration in the worKs of visiting Western artists 350 00:32:34,485 --> 00:32:37,181 Experimentation in themes, materials 351 00:32:37,322 --> 00:32:43,022 and approach has resulted in a fusion of folK art and modern style 352 00:32:50,034 --> 00:32:53,231 Sanur Beach has been the site of invasions by the Dutch 353 00:32:53,371 --> 00:32:57,637 the Japanese, and more recently, tourist 354 00:32:58,843 --> 00:33:00,367 Despite inevitable change 355 00:33:00,511 --> 00:33:03,674 the people retain their village lifestyle 356 00:33:04,549 --> 00:33:09,543 Eleven- year-old Wayan Mastri and her schoolmates live in Sanur 357 00:33:10,989 --> 00:33:15,016 It was the Indonesian government that opened education to girls 358 00:33:15,159 --> 00:33:17,957 Today, education is compulsory for all 359 00:33:18,096 --> 00:33:21,395 with parents required to pay a small fee 360 00:33:28,406 --> 00:33:31,773 On Mondays school begins with the singing of the national anthem 361 00:33:31,909 --> 00:33:34,002 in the Indonesian language 362 00:33:34,145 --> 00:33:38,377 an important element in unifying the world's fifth largest nation 363 00:33:38,516 --> 00:33:43,283 made up of diverse cultures languages, and religions 364 00:34:06,210 --> 00:34:09,577 While other classes are taught in the Bahasa Indonesian language 365 00:34:09,714 --> 00:34:12,911 religion is taught in Balinese 366 00:34:34,772 --> 00:34:36,831 Just steps away from a popular beach 367 00:34:36,974 --> 00:34:38,532 yet worlds away 368 00:34:38,676 --> 00:34:42,168 Mastri and her family live in a simple compound 369 00:34:42,313 --> 00:34:44,281 They worK together maKing Kites 370 00:34:44,415 --> 00:34:48,511 to supplement the modest living her father earns as a fisherman 371 00:34:49,020 --> 00:34:52,217 It taKes a full day to craft one Kite 372 00:34:52,356 --> 00:34:55,985 They are sold to tourists for about $10 each 373 00:35:11,142 --> 00:35:13,872 The Balinese themselves are very fond of Kites 374 00:35:14,011 --> 00:35:15,911 Mastri's younger brother and sister 375 00:35:16,047 --> 00:35:18,106 taKe their own gaily painted birds 376 00:35:18,249 --> 00:35:21,616 to dance in the wind above Sanur Beach 377 00:35:45,843 --> 00:35:49,108 At festivals celebrated on each temple's anniversary 378 00:35:49,247 --> 00:35:50,612 the gods are called down 379 00:35:50,748 --> 00:35:52,773 from their home above the mountains 380 00:35:52,917 --> 00:35:55,613 and greeted with elaborate offerings 381 00:35:57,955 --> 00:36:00,549 Mastir and her family join the stream of worshippers 382 00:36:00,691 --> 00:36:03,421 at the Temple of the Dead in Sanur 383 00:36:09,901 --> 00:36:11,698 By cleaning and decorating the temple 384 00:36:11,836 --> 00:36:13,963 As well as preparing offerings 385 00:36:14,105 --> 00:36:17,404 everyone has shared in creating the festival 386 00:36:22,280 --> 00:36:25,181 The gods will remain on earth for these days 387 00:36:25,316 --> 00:36:28,911 the temple alive with the prayers of the entire village 388 00:36:29,053 --> 00:36:30,384 When the festival ends 389 00:36:30,521 --> 00:36:35,549 the gods will depart until next year when they will be summoned again 390 00:36:40,765 --> 00:36:44,599 For most Balinese the sea is a terrifying place 391 00:36:44,735 --> 00:36:48,193 a realm inhabited by demons of the underworld 392 00:36:48,739 --> 00:36:49,501 RemarKably 393 00:36:49,640 --> 00:36:55,044 Bali is one of the new island societies oriented away from the water 394 00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:57,211 But when the tide is right 395 00:36:57,348 --> 00:37:00,613 Mastri's father and brother brave the danger 396 00:37:00,918 --> 00:37:04,410 They have no boat and only a minimum of equipment 397 00:37:04,555 --> 00:37:06,079 The boy is learning from his father 398 00:37:06,224 --> 00:37:08,055 how to catch the tropical fish 399 00:37:08,192 --> 00:37:10,786 that provide most of the family's income 400 00:37:30,514 --> 00:37:34,416 He will sell the fish to an exporter for a few cents each 401 00:37:43,561 --> 00:37:47,861 In the compound they prepare the fish for shipment to Australia 402 00:38:02,446 --> 00:38:05,074 The Bags are filled woth oxygen for the flight 403 00:38:05,216 --> 00:38:07,377 The fish will be sold at high prices 404 00:38:07,518 --> 00:38:11,147 to shops that cater to tropical fish fanciers 405 00:38:21,732 --> 00:38:24,826 At the Tandjung Sari hotel on Sanur Beach 406 00:38:24,969 --> 00:38:29,406 Mastri and other local youngsters are taught traditional dances 407 00:38:29,540 --> 00:38:31,633 The management has created a foundation 408 00:38:31,776 --> 00:38:34,108 to preserve music and dance 409 00:38:34,245 --> 00:38:37,373 They believe that since hotels are replacing rice fields 410 00:38:37,515 --> 00:38:39,312 as the economic base here 411 00:38:39,450 --> 00:38:42,442 they have a responsibility to the villagers 412 00:38:46,557 --> 00:38:48,855 Every Saturday night Mastri and the others 413 00:38:48,993 --> 00:38:53,225 are transformed from school girls into court dancers 414 00:38:56,801 --> 00:38:58,200 Legong raton 415 00:38:58,336 --> 00:39:01,237 its story drawn from 13th century Java 416 00:39:01,372 --> 00:39:04,739 was once performed only in royal palaces 417 00:39:05,276 --> 00:39:07,437 Traditionally legong is danced by girls 418 00:39:07,578 --> 00:39:10,445 who have not yet reached the age of puberty 419 00:39:20,124 --> 00:39:22,684 Every performance is preceded by rituals 420 00:39:22,827 --> 00:39:26,524 to insure that the spirit world will be benevolent 421 00:39:38,776 --> 00:39:42,143 Contemporary anthropologist Philip Mcean observes 422 00:39:42,279 --> 00:39:44,406 Often the "young find their identity 423 00:39:44,548 --> 00:39:46,709 as Balinese framed by the mirror 424 00:39:46,851 --> 00:39:49,411 that tourism holds up to them 425 00:39:50,287 --> 00:39:52,278 This has led many of them to celebrate 426 00:39:52,423 --> 00:39:56,154 their own traditions with continued vitality 427 00:40:34,965 --> 00:40:39,163 This legong portrays a Kidnapped princes lost in the forest 428 00:40:39,303 --> 00:40:42,932 a heroic prince, and an omen-bearing bird 429 00:40:50,514 --> 00:40:55,850 Dances learned here are also performed in the banjar and village temples 430 00:40:56,220 --> 00:40:59,087 The dancers receive a small toKen payment 431 00:40:59,223 --> 00:41:00,815 But their deepest reward is in 432 00:41:00,958 --> 00:41:05,327 filling a spiritual need in themselves and their community 433 00:41:12,169 --> 00:41:14,194 There is growing awareness in the Balinese 434 00:41:14,338 --> 00:41:16,636 of the priceless value of their culture 435 00:41:16,774 --> 00:41:19,572 and its potential vulnerability 436 00:41:19,710 --> 00:41:22,543 ASTI, the performing arts college in the capital 437 00:41:22,680 --> 00:41:26,446 is under the direction of Dr. I. Made Bandem 438 00:41:26,584 --> 00:41:27,778 Son of a dance master 439 00:41:27,918 --> 00:41:28,907 he learned to dance 440 00:41:29,053 --> 00:41:32,580 and play gamelan instruments in his village 441 00:41:32,723 --> 00:41:38,025 Later he earned advanced degrees at UCLA and Wesleyan University 442 00:41:46,003 --> 00:41:50,372 ASTI has 400 students and 60 faculty members 443 00:41:50,508 --> 00:41:53,875 Dr. Bandem also invites dance master from the villages 444 00:41:54,011 --> 00:41:59,472 to share with students the diverse styles found throughout the island. Dr. Bandem 445 00:41:59,617 --> 00:42:01,016 Dr. Bandem... 446 00:42:01,151 --> 00:42:05,053 Our curriculum in ASTI is really a combination 447 00:42:05,189 --> 00:42:09,387 between ideals of villages and also modern school 448 00:42:09,527 --> 00:42:15,056 ASTI is not separated from the society to which it belongs 449 00:42:20,738 --> 00:42:22,035 The subjects they learned at school 450 00:42:22,172 --> 00:42:24,732 is not only technique, music, and dance 451 00:42:24,875 --> 00:42:28,311 but also learning anthropology, history 452 00:42:28,445 --> 00:42:31,073 and other related cultural bacKground 453 00:42:31,215 --> 00:42:36,448 so they can strengthen their appreciation of Balinese artist 454 00:42:58,542 --> 00:42:59,668 In the countryside 455 00:42:59,810 --> 00:43:03,769 the meticulously tended rice terraces yield their golden bounty 456 00:43:03,914 --> 00:43:06,144 as they have for centuries 457 00:43:06,850 --> 00:43:07,748 WorKing together 458 00:43:07,885 --> 00:43:11,878 the antor family gathers the stalKs one by one 459 00:43:12,022 --> 00:43:14,047 Mr. Antor says 460 00:43:16,293 --> 00:43:20,024 Rice is a very great gift from god 461 00:43:20,164 --> 00:43:23,565 Rice gives life to the Balinese people 462 00:43:37,314 --> 00:43:38,076 For the antors 463 00:43:38,215 --> 00:43:42,481 this marKs the successful culmination of another cycle 464 00:43:51,595 --> 00:43:55,258 A ceremonial dish delivered throughout the banjar serves 465 00:43:55,399 --> 00:43:58,857 as the invitation to a unique rite of passage 466 00:44:01,372 --> 00:44:03,670 This is the tooth-filling ceremony 467 00:44:03,807 --> 00:44:08,403 a ritual that symbolically concludes the parent, child relationship 468 00:44:09,113 --> 00:44:11,445 The high priest has blessed his instruments 469 00:44:11,582 --> 00:44:14,016 to maKe the operation painless 470 00:44:16,387 --> 00:44:17,354 After death 471 00:44:17,488 --> 00:44:19,888 one may be denied entrance to the spirit world 472 00:44:20,024 --> 00:44:22,652 if his teeth have bot been filled 473 00:44:22,793 --> 00:44:27,196 The priest files the points of the canine teeth to form a straight line 474 00:44:27,331 --> 00:44:31,734 This diminishes what the Balinese consider "animal qualities" 475 00:44:31,869 --> 00:44:35,270 greed, anger, and jealousy 476 00:44:50,754 --> 00:44:53,723 The fillings will be buried in the family temple 477 00:45:05,002 --> 00:45:09,234 Marriage is the final initiation into the community 478 00:45:09,807 --> 00:45:13,675 All Balinese Know their most important duty is to raise a son 479 00:45:13,811 --> 00:45:18,874 who, one day, will perform the cremation ceremony for his parents 480 00:45:19,249 --> 00:45:20,807 From her home next door 481 00:45:20,951 --> 00:45:23,818 Deni walKs to the antors' compound for the rite 482 00:45:23,954 --> 00:45:26,923 that will unite her with their eldest son 483 00:45:33,530 --> 00:45:37,523 A priest purifies the couple with holy water and prayer 484 00:45:53,217 --> 00:45:55,515 They walKed in a circle three times 485 00:45:55,652 --> 00:45:58,052 Deni balances a marKet basKet 486 00:45:58,188 --> 00:46:02,716 Wayan carries food to suggest how he will provide 487 00:46:03,360 --> 00:46:05,658 The moment when Deni breaKs the string 488 00:46:05,796 --> 00:46:09,197 signals the end of their lives as individuals 489 00:46:09,333 --> 00:46:12,928 their entrance to a new world as a couple 490 00:46:17,941 --> 00:46:21,206 Age-old gestures insure fertility 491 00:46:38,695 --> 00:46:40,560 In the antors' family shrine 492 00:46:40,697 --> 00:46:43,723 Deni taKes leave of her ancestral gods 493 00:46:43,867 --> 00:46:48,429 From this day forward she embraces those of her husband 494 00:46:52,042 --> 00:46:55,341 All over the island villagers gather at their banjars 495 00:46:55,479 --> 00:46:58,209 to prepare for a momentous event 496 00:46:59,316 --> 00:47:03,912 A fine cremation is the life long ambition of very Balinese 497 00:47:04,054 --> 00:47:07,353 But a grand send-off requires the worK of many hands 498 00:47:07,491 --> 00:47:09,391 and much money 499 00:47:09,827 --> 00:47:11,556 Mass cremations 500 00:47:11,695 --> 00:47:14,323 for which the entire village shares expenses 501 00:47:14,464 --> 00:47:16,091 are the answer 502 00:47:16,633 --> 00:47:21,593 Teams of artisans fashion sarcophagi for the great celebrations 503 00:47:37,087 --> 00:47:40,284 In the antors' village the rhythm of the KulKul announces 504 00:47:40,424 --> 00:47:43,621 that cremation ceremonies will soon begin 505 00:47:44,027 --> 00:47:47,360 The people have spent years saving for this day 506 00:47:48,732 --> 00:47:53,169 In the graveyard villagers... 507 00:47:53,303 --> 00:47:56,704 ...custom they may be buried for 25 years 508 00:47:56,840 --> 00:47:57,966 or even longer, 509 00:47:58,108 --> 00:48:00,906 before the all-important cremation 510 00:48:01,044 --> 00:48:03,308 Mr. Antor reflects 511 00:48:06,817 --> 00:48:09,980 As we dig up our ancestors' remains 512 00:48:10,120 --> 00:48:14,147 we remember how they helped is and gave is a good life 513 00:48:14,291 --> 00:48:16,782 Now we are without them 514 00:48:16,927 --> 00:48:18,895 We are very saddened 515 00:48:21,431 --> 00:48:25,390 Mr. Antor's mother in law died six years ago 516 00:48:25,535 --> 00:48:30,234 Now her bones are carefully arranged in a white cloth 517 00:48:33,844 --> 00:48:37,075 Village men and boys assemble to carry the bodies 518 00:48:37,214 --> 00:48:40,377 a symbol of their loyalty to the deceased 519 00:48:42,319 --> 00:48:45,755 The families carry wood for the cremation pyres 520 00:48:50,093 --> 00:48:54,393 Strict caste rules dictate the shape of the sarcophagus 521 00:48:54,531 --> 00:48:58,297 Because Mrs. Antor's mother was a member of the Sudra caste 522 00:48:58,435 --> 00:49:02,667 her sarcophagus is shaped liKe a mythical elephant, fish 523 00:49:08,211 --> 00:49:13,114 The raucous, joyful journey to the cremation grounds begins 524 00:49:21,792 --> 00:49:24,124 The sarcophagus are turned in all directions 525 00:49:24,261 --> 00:49:26,661 to confuse the souls of the departed 526 00:49:26,797 --> 00:49:30,631 and ensure that that will not wander bacK to their homes 527 00:49:39,543 --> 00:49:43,639 Carrying holy water and offerings they have spent weeKs preparing 528 00:49:43,780 --> 00:49:48,149 the antor Koin the other families at the cremation grounds 529 00:49:52,422 --> 00:49:55,357 Again, the remains are purified 530 00:50:01,631 --> 00:50:04,532 Offerings also serve as fuel 531 00:50:12,776 --> 00:50:14,835 Only when the body is destroyed 532 00:50:14,978 --> 00:50:19,472 is the soul free to be reunited with the Supreme Being 533 00:50:19,816 --> 00:50:24,276 This act is the most sacred duty of every Balinese 534 00:50:26,256 --> 00:50:28,156 Our greatest happiness occurs 535 00:50:28,291 --> 00:50:31,852 whenever we are successful in carrying out a good cremation 536 00:50:31,995 --> 00:50:36,091 and freeing our ancestors from the connection to earth 537 00:50:39,503 --> 00:50:42,939 This type of ceremony does not cause us sadness 538 00:50:43,073 --> 00:50:45,803 but creates a moment of happiness 539 00:50:45,942 --> 00:50:50,572 Cremations are a ceremony to free the souls of our ancestors 540 00:50:50,714 --> 00:50:53,148 a way of ending a long life and 541 00:50:53,283 --> 00:50:54,375 at the same time 542 00:50:54,518 --> 00:50:56,782 beginning a new one 543 00:51:26,283 --> 00:51:28,581 The ashes are taKen to the sea 544 00:51:28,718 --> 00:51:30,481 the final act in the cremation 545 00:51:30,620 --> 00:51:34,750 that marKs the passage from this life to the next 546 00:51:38,495 --> 00:51:44,661 And between incarnations the soul resides in a place just liKe Bali 547 00:51:44,801 --> 00:51:48,362 but devoid of all trouble and illness 548 00:51:52,142 --> 00:51:54,337 In the endless round of life 549 00:51:54,478 --> 00:51:58,005 by carefully discharging their sacred duties 550 00:51:58,148 --> 00:52:02,710 the Balinese have Kept their world in balance for centuries 551 00:52:04,921 --> 00:52:07,617 The effects of modernization on contemporary Bali 552 00:52:07,757 --> 00:52:10,658 are profound Paradoxically 553 00:52:10,794 --> 00:52:14,127 tourists help preserve and renew the arts 554 00:52:14,264 --> 00:52:15,663 while propelling the Balinese 555 00:52:15,799 --> 00:52:20,862 toward a share of the wealth that all developing communities require 556 00:52:28,378 --> 00:52:31,108 Ever since they first arrived on these shores 557 00:52:31,248 --> 00:52:32,943 admiring outsiders have feared 558 00:52:33,083 --> 00:52:38,043 that foreign ideas might swamp this finely tuned society 559 00:52:38,488 --> 00:52:39,853 But while the 20th century 560 00:52:39,990 --> 00:52:43,790 has given the Balinese new ways of looKing at their world 561 00:52:43,927 --> 00:52:49,422 it has also renewed their determination to preserve their ancient heritage 562 00:52:54,104 --> 00:52:59,406 As long as they remain bound together by ties of community, economics 563 00:52:59,543 --> 00:53:03,172 religious rituals, and ancestral loyalty 564 00:53:03,313 --> 00:53:07,773 Bali will remain an oasis of beauty and belief 565 00:53:07,918 --> 00:53:10,853 the masterpiece of the gods