1 00:00:09,342 --> 00:00:11,936 In the courtyard of Madrid's Royal Palace 2 00:00:12,078 --> 00:00:14,376 the ing's Guard recalls an era of 3 00:00:14,514 --> 00:00:16,345 regal splendor, privilege 4 00:00:16,483 --> 00:00:19,748 and might in Spain's past 5 00:00:23,390 --> 00:00:24,550 Viva! 6 00:00:36,469 --> 00:00:40,132 But the saga of Juan Carlos is distinctly modern 7 00:00:41,241 --> 00:00:43,573 When he became king in 1975 8 00:00:43,710 --> 00:00:48,579 he took the reins of government from Europe's last fascist dictator 9 00:00:51,117 --> 00:00:56,282 He was to inherit a land touched by forces unlike the rest of Europe... 10 00:00:56,423 --> 00:01:01,156 a land chosen by destiny to become the greatest power on earth... 11 00:01:01,294 --> 00:01:06,630 then doomed to lapse into decades of decline and stagnation 12 00:01:10,403 --> 00:01:12,667 In the extraordinary reign of Juan Carlos 13 00:01:12,806 --> 00:01:16,037 Spain has leapt into the 20th century 14 00:01:18,978 --> 00:01:20,673 Un, dos, y... 15 00:01:20,814 --> 00:01:23,840 But as new ideas concepts, and values flood in 16 00:01:23,983 --> 00:01:28,818 the Spanish people cherish the ways that are uniquely theirs 17 00:01:50,477 --> 00:01:56,438 Mindful of the grandeur of their past even as they create a new unknown future 18 00:01:56,583 --> 00:01:59,518 they nurture and treasure the timeless traditions 19 00:01:59,652 --> 00:02:03,520 that illuminate the Soul of Spain 20 00:02:51,504 --> 00:02:57,238 Spain. Dramatic, mysterious, complex 21 00:03:00,914 --> 00:03:04,714 Greatness and tragedy resonate in its soul 22 00:03:05,451 --> 00:03:09,410 It gave the world the essence of chivalry in Don Quixote... 23 00:03:09,556 --> 00:03:13,515 the quintessence of cruelty in the Inquisition 24 00:03:17,597 --> 00:03:20,430 Long after the rest of Europe industrialized 25 00:03:20,567 --> 00:03:23,900 Spain remained poor and agrarian 26 00:03:24,604 --> 00:03:29,098 Hereditary noblemen and wealthy families still owned much of the land 27 00:03:29,242 --> 00:03:33,542 controlled it by the laws and privileges of their class 28 00:03:43,690 --> 00:03:44,748 Inward looking 29 00:03:44,891 --> 00:03:50,488 the people proudly clung to their ancient heritage, customs, and beliefs 30 00:03:51,864 --> 00:03:53,263 Who are they? 31 00:03:54,200 --> 00:03:56,100 Where did they come from? 32 00:03:56,970 --> 00:04:00,428 What shaped the Spanish soul? 33 00:04:03,409 --> 00:04:08,073 Lying astride the Atlantic and Mediterranean on the lberian Peninsula 34 00:04:08,214 --> 00:04:12,651 Spain has been called "that country ripped from hot Africa 35 00:04:12,785 --> 00:04:16,312 soldered crudely to inventive Europe 36 00:04:21,160 --> 00:04:24,493 First settled by wandering tribes from Europe and North Africa 37 00:04:24,631 --> 00:04:26,565 it would be colonized by Phoenicians 38 00:04:26,699 --> 00:04:29,395 Carthaginians, and Greeks 39 00:04:31,170 --> 00:04:32,296 By 19 B.C. 40 00:04:32,438 --> 00:04:35,635 The triumphant Romans dominated the peninsula 41 00:04:35,775 --> 00:04:40,735 They would leave their indelible imprint of architecture, law, and language 42 00:04:41,180 --> 00:04:44,980 Later, Roman missionaries would introduce Christianity 43 00:04:48,655 --> 00:04:50,088 Led by Arab warriors 44 00:04:50,223 --> 00:04:54,785 in 711 Berbers from North Africa swept into Spain 45 00:04:55,028 --> 00:04:59,055 Soon their rule and Muslim religion gripped the land 46 00:04:59,899 --> 00:05:01,332 Working side by side 47 00:05:01,467 --> 00:05:02,456 Muslim, Christian 48 00:05:02,602 --> 00:05:05,696 and Jewish scholars relit the torch of learning 49 00:05:05,838 --> 00:05:08,932 that led Europe out of the Dark Ages 50 00:05:09,742 --> 00:05:12,006 Cordoba, capital of Muslim Spain 51 00:05:12,145 --> 00:05:15,171 became Europe's most cultured city 52 00:05:15,415 --> 00:05:20,785 boasting half a million inhabitants when London and Paris were only villages 53 00:05:28,161 --> 00:05:30,152 But through the eight centuries of Muslim rule 54 00:05:30,296 --> 00:05:34,130 the Christians waged war to reconquer the land 55 00:05:34,267 --> 00:05:38,704 until only Granada survived as a Muslim stronghold 56 00:05:39,105 --> 00:05:41,699 In 1492 the last Muslim king 57 00:05:41,841 --> 00:05:47,438 surrendered his crown to the Catholic sovereigns Ferdinand and Isabella 58 00:05:48,214 --> 00:05:52,150 Through war and Inquisition Spain would expel not only the Muslims 59 00:05:52,285 --> 00:05:56,278 but all Jews who refused to be baptized 60 00:06:01,627 --> 00:06:04,221 Seeking a westward route to the riches of India 61 00:06:04,364 --> 00:06:06,229 Ferdinand and Isabella would provide 62 00:06:06,366 --> 00:06:09,597 Christopher Columbus with financial support 63 00:06:10,803 --> 00:06:12,828 On the 33rd day of his voyage 64 00:06:12,972 --> 00:06:15,202 Columbus landed in the New World 65 00:06:15,341 --> 00:06:18,970 and claimed it in the name of the Spanish crown 66 00:06:20,313 --> 00:06:24,647 Spain would conquer huge empires in the Americas 67 00:06:33,259 --> 00:06:39,198 Gold wrested from native peoples would finance wars in faraway Europe... 68 00:06:40,633 --> 00:06:44,330 and Spain would become the world's mightiest power 69 00:06:46,439 --> 00:06:47,963 But two centuries later 70 00:06:48,107 --> 00:06:49,768 its navy defeated 71 00:06:49,909 --> 00:06:51,570 its empire in shambles 72 00:06:51,711 --> 00:06:55,272 Spain's era of supremacy was over 73 00:06:55,748 --> 00:06:59,149 A long eclipse had begun 74 00:07:09,695 --> 00:07:11,925 1936 75 00:07:14,400 --> 00:07:17,267 With the Second Republic torn by political turmoil 76 00:07:17,403 --> 00:07:20,930 Spain is plunged into bloody civil war 77 00:07:22,375 --> 00:07:24,843 An alliance of army officers, monarchists 78 00:07:24,977 --> 00:07:29,004 and the Catholic Church joins the fascists in rebellion 79 00:07:31,184 --> 00:07:33,311 They are supported by Hitler and Mussolini 80 00:07:33,453 --> 00:07:38,720 in a conflict that becomes a dress rehearsal for the Second World War 81 00:07:44,030 --> 00:07:45,759 The death toll from combat 82 00:07:45,898 --> 00:07:51,461 and executions will cost the nation half a million lives 83 00:07:53,372 --> 00:07:55,533 1939 84 00:07:57,009 --> 00:07:58,203 With the fall of Madrid 85 00:07:58,344 --> 00:08:00,278 General Francisco Franco 86 00:08:00,413 --> 00:08:03,314 commander of the victorious Nationalist troops 87 00:08:03,449 --> 00:08:08,318 assumes powers greater than those of any monarch in Spain's history 88 00:08:12,024 --> 00:08:15,460 Nationalist, rightist, and authoritarian 89 00:08:15,595 --> 00:08:21,329 the dictator Franco embarks on 36 years of repressive control 90 00:08:29,542 --> 00:08:31,840 When World War I I rages across Europe 91 00:08:31,978 --> 00:08:36,415 the wily Franco manages to keep Spain out of the conflict 92 00:08:37,450 --> 00:08:39,782 The role of women remains static 93 00:08:39,919 --> 00:08:44,185 circumscribed by church tradition and male domination 94 00:08:51,531 --> 00:08:56,594 Physically shattered and spiritually crippled in the long aftermath of war 95 00:08:56,736 --> 00:09:00,069 the nation will need years to heal 96 00:09:02,775 --> 00:09:05,676 Franco orders construction of the Valley of the Fallen 97 00:09:05,811 --> 00:09:08,609 to commemorate the Civil War dead 98 00:09:11,484 --> 00:09:13,418 Although named E1 Caudillo 99 00:09:13,553 --> 00:09:14,986 The Leader for life 100 00:09:15,121 --> 00:09:20,582 he knows that someday he too will find his final resting place here 101 00:09:21,027 --> 00:09:23,552 Believing a monarchy would best serve Spain 102 00:09:23,696 --> 00:09:28,599 Franco selects as his successor the grandson of the last king 103 00:09:31,470 --> 00:09:32,368 Born in exile 104 00:09:32,505 --> 00:09:36,805 Juan Carlos first set foot on Spanish soil at age ten 105 00:09:36,943 --> 00:09:39,173 His father legitimate heir to the throne 106 00:09:39,312 --> 00:09:43,476 had acquiesced to Franco's desire to educate the boy 107 00:09:44,150 --> 00:09:46,914 The prince would spend four years in the Army, Navy 108 00:09:47,053 --> 00:09:48,645 and Air Force academies 109 00:09:48,788 --> 00:09:50,449 attend university 110 00:09:50,590 --> 00:09:54,856 and complete his studies at a number of government ministeries 111 00:10:06,939 --> 00:10:08,998 1975 112 00:10:09,475 --> 00:10:12,171 The nation observes the end of an era 113 00:10:14,213 --> 00:10:19,776 For nearly four decades Franco had made all of Spain's important decisions 114 00:10:20,419 --> 00:10:23,582 Juan Carlos, rarely seen except in Franco's shadow 115 00:10:23,723 --> 00:10:27,250 was perceived to be molded in his image 116 00:10:27,860 --> 00:10:30,727 Would the nation again erupt in rebellion? 117 00:10:40,506 --> 00:10:45,239 Juan Carlos swore his allegiance to the constitution and the people 118 00:10:46,812 --> 00:10:51,977 "Desde la motion en el recuerdo Franco, viva elrey!" 119 00:10:52,118 --> 00:10:53,016 Viva! 120 00:10:53,152 --> 00:10:54,119 Viva Espagna! 121 00:10:54,253 --> 00:10:55,686 Viva! 122 00:11:01,861 --> 00:11:03,488 Perceptive and intelligent 123 00:11:03,629 --> 00:11:08,566 he had privately concluded Spain must embark on a new course secretly 124 00:11:08,701 --> 00:11:11,067 he had prepared himself for it 125 00:11:12,872 --> 00:11:13,896 To everyone's surprise 126 00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:18,568 he deftly led his people from dictatorship to democracy 127 00:11:22,148 --> 00:11:24,844 A king who pays taxes lives modestly 128 00:11:24,984 --> 00:11:27,282 and is an avid sports enthusiast 129 00:11:27,420 --> 00:11:30,947 he soon became the most popular man in the country 130 00:11:35,327 --> 00:11:37,887 His greatest test came in 1981 131 00:11:38,030 --> 00:11:40,464 when parliament was invaded by Civil Guards 132 00:11:40,599 --> 00:11:43,397 commanded by a right-wing colonel 133 00:12:04,123 --> 00:12:06,284 As an amazed public watched on television 134 00:12:06,425 --> 00:12:10,486 the colonel called for a return to a Francoist regime 135 00:12:18,637 --> 00:12:21,697 Working through the night as parliament was held hostage 136 00:12:21,841 --> 00:12:23,672 the king obtained pledges of loyalty 137 00:12:23,809 --> 00:12:25,572 from his principal military leaders 138 00:12:25,711 --> 00:12:28,441 and quelled the attempted coup 139 00:12:29,849 --> 00:12:33,751 His reassuring address to the people included these words 140 00:12:33,886 --> 00:12:35,683 The Crow... cannot tolerate actions 141 00:12:35,821 --> 00:12:40,383 attempting to interrupt by force democratic process 142 00:12:42,561 --> 00:12:44,825 Under his leadership a vital and dynamic 143 00:12:44,964 --> 00:12:48,991 New Spain has become an economic success story 144 00:12:50,469 --> 00:12:54,599 The nation is an eager new member of the European Community 145 00:12:55,875 --> 00:12:57,502 lts thirty-nine million citizens 146 00:12:57,643 --> 00:13:01,579 have a higher standard of living than ever in their history 147 00:13:03,282 --> 00:13:05,147 And there is freedom 148 00:13:05,284 --> 00:13:08,344 of religion, of expression 149 00:13:22,635 --> 00:13:25,536 The repression of old has evaporated 150 00:13:27,306 --> 00:13:31,208 A burst of growth has transformed the nation 151 00:13:57,469 --> 00:14:00,666 Every year Spain attracts 50 million tourists 152 00:14:00,806 --> 00:14:04,037 more than the country's total population 153 00:14:06,912 --> 00:14:08,573 They bring billions of dollars 154 00:14:08,714 --> 00:14:11,683 new ideas and customs 155 00:14:22,328 --> 00:14:23,090 The Spaniards 156 00:14:23,229 --> 00:14:25,459 once Europe's poor relations 157 00:14:25,598 --> 00:14:28,965 have become conspicuous consumers 158 00:14:36,408 --> 00:14:38,603 But behind the facade of modern Spain 159 00:14:38,744 --> 00:14:43,010 echoes of an older way of life still resonate 160 00:14:46,085 --> 00:14:47,780 In the same year that Franco died 161 00:14:47,920 --> 00:14:50,218 so did Don Fernando de la Camara 162 00:14:50,356 --> 00:14:54,224 one of the wealthy landowners who had supported the dictator 163 00:14:54,360 --> 00:14:57,761 Camar's presence can still be felt in the Seville apartment 164 00:14:57,897 --> 00:15:00,764 where his heir, Rocio, lives 165 00:15:08,540 --> 00:15:12,636 She is now head of her family's agricultural business 166 00:15:14,713 --> 00:15:15,577 As her father did 167 00:15:15,714 --> 00:15:21,778 Rocio grows wheat and sunflowers and raises bulls to fight in the ring 168 00:15:30,529 --> 00:15:34,158 Every year the new calves are rounded up for branding 169 00:15:57,289 --> 00:16:01,089 In this tough and traditionally male-oriented atmosphere 170 00:16:01,226 --> 00:16:04,195 Rocio has found acceptance 171 00:16:10,436 --> 00:16:11,960 Of course it's harder being a woman 172 00:16:12,104 --> 00:16:14,538 but society is changing and nowadays 173 00:16:14,673 --> 00:16:19,042 there are no real problems, big problems 174 00:16:22,514 --> 00:16:23,538 If I were a man 175 00:16:23,682 --> 00:16:25,081 I'd wrestle those calves 176 00:16:25,217 --> 00:16:27,185 but as a woman, I can't 177 00:16:27,319 --> 00:16:30,152 But there are many important things to do on a ranch 178 00:16:30,289 --> 00:16:33,884 where being a woman makes no difference at all 179 00:16:42,534 --> 00:16:46,732 Diego Reina has been employed by the Camaras for more than 20 years 180 00:16:46,872 --> 00:16:48,430 He helped raised Rocio 181 00:16:48,574 --> 00:16:51,566 and when her father died continued as foreman 182 00:16:51,710 --> 00:16:53,041 He has had other job offers 183 00:16:53,178 --> 00:16:56,272 but he respects and admires Rocio 184 00:16:56,415 --> 00:16:58,883 He says he will never leave. 185 00:17:14,533 --> 00:17:16,831 Unlike his peers of 25 years ago 186 00:17:16,969 --> 00:17:19,096 Diego receives an adequate income 187 00:17:19,238 --> 00:17:20,364 has his own house 188 00:17:20,506 --> 00:17:24,272 and can look forward to retirement with social security 189 00:17:26,512 --> 00:17:29,037 Today Diego has the right to vote 190 00:17:29,181 --> 00:17:30,614 but like many others 191 00:17:30,749 --> 00:17:33,809 still prefers the old ways 192 00:17:38,791 --> 00:17:42,192 Personally, I felt more at ease under Franco than now 193 00:17:43,262 --> 00:17:45,162 Nobody bothered anybody 194 00:17:45,297 --> 00:17:48,061 You could bed down in the fields anywhere 195 00:17:48,600 --> 00:17:50,465 Now you can't 196 00:17:55,707 --> 00:17:58,005 In the last few years before Franco died 197 00:17:58,143 --> 00:18:00,873 life was peaceful in the country 198 00:18:03,082 --> 00:18:07,951 We ate well in the country and we could save a peseta or two 199 00:18:12,558 --> 00:18:14,958 Who saves anything nowadays? 200 00:18:21,633 --> 00:18:23,032 Whether Juan, Pedro 201 00:18:23,168 --> 00:18:24,362 or Antonio is in charge 202 00:18:24,503 --> 00:18:26,130 the land is the same 203 00:18:26,271 --> 00:18:29,172 We live off the land and die for the land 204 00:18:29,308 --> 00:18:33,108 It's always the same, always the same 205 00:18:44,289 --> 00:18:47,053 Diego's land is Andalucia 206 00:18:48,760 --> 00:18:53,129 In this southernmost region of Spain under a brilliant sun and sky 207 00:18:53,265 --> 00:18:57,599 olive trees and vineyards have thrived for thousands of years 208 00:19:05,744 --> 00:19:08,008 Only here in all the world 209 00:19:08,147 --> 00:19:09,910 in a small area of chalky 210 00:19:10,048 --> 00:19:11,982 moisture-retaining soil 211 00:19:12,117 --> 00:19:15,678 is true sherry wine produced 212 00:19:17,222 --> 00:19:18,052 In 1730 213 00:19:18,190 --> 00:19:24,186 a French farmer founded a sherry dynasty in the town of Jerez de la Frontera 214 00:19:24,329 --> 00:19:26,524 Today, the heirs of Pedro Domecq 215 00:19:26,665 --> 00:19:30,032 are the second largest producers of sherry in the world 216 00:19:30,169 --> 00:19:34,401 part of an elite referred to as "sherry barons" 217 00:19:35,007 --> 00:19:37,032 Still, even at age 77 218 00:19:37,176 --> 00:19:42,239 Jose Ignacio Domecq enjoys driving to work on a second-hand motorbike 219 00:19:42,381 --> 00:19:44,372 purchased from his chauffeur 220 00:19:49,955 --> 00:19:52,924 At the manor house that overlooks some of the Domecq vineyards 221 00:19:53,058 --> 00:19:55,219 he meets his eldest son 222 00:20:01,366 --> 00:20:03,425 The manor was built around an ancient tower 223 00:20:03,569 --> 00:20:07,335 used during the Middle Ages to send smoke signals to Africa 224 00:20:07,472 --> 00:20:10,066 only 65 miles away 225 00:20:15,547 --> 00:20:17,037 It provides a vantage point 226 00:20:17,182 --> 00:20:18,877 from which the Domecqs can confer 227 00:20:19,017 --> 00:20:23,716 about the 4,300 acres of vineyards they cultivate here 228 00:20:26,491 --> 00:20:28,459 One day the younger Jose Ignacio 229 00:20:28,594 --> 00:20:30,221 will take control of their wine 230 00:20:30,362 --> 00:20:33,991 and brandy empire is Spain and the Americas 231 00:20:39,705 --> 00:20:43,971 Domecq produces 10 million liters of sherry annually 232 00:20:50,949 --> 00:20:55,477 The most vital element in creating a distinctive sherry is the human factor... 233 00:20:55,621 --> 00:20:58,647 specifically, the human nose 234 00:21:22,147 --> 00:21:24,547 In the bodegas where sherry matures 235 00:21:24,683 --> 00:21:27,117 the Domecqs exercise the delicate skill 236 00:21:27,252 --> 00:21:33,213 which has made the family masters of the art of wine making for 250 years 237 00:21:37,929 --> 00:21:42,389 We maintain our standardization of quality 238 00:21:42,534 --> 00:21:45,002 throughout the different generations 239 00:21:45,137 --> 00:21:47,901 My father is known in the wine world... 240 00:21:48,040 --> 00:21:49,268 ...for the nose 241 00:21:49,408 --> 00:21:51,137 not only because of the size of it 242 00:21:51,276 --> 00:21:54,040 that is you have seen rather big 243 00:21:54,179 --> 00:21:56,773 but because he's considered one of the... 244 00:21:56,915 --> 00:22:02,615 ...most important specialists in Europe in the science of wine 245 00:22:16,435 --> 00:22:20,735 The unique quality of sherry derives from the solera system 246 00:22:21,640 --> 00:22:27,169 New sherry is blended with more mature sherry to take on its characteristics 247 00:22:31,983 --> 00:22:34,884 Fortified with grape brandy and repeatedly blended 248 00:22:35,020 --> 00:22:39,252 it ages in oak casks until it reaches maturity 249 00:22:43,128 --> 00:22:48,828 The most venerable bodega holds casks of rate sherry dedicated to the famous 250 00:22:50,802 --> 00:22:54,033 Among them is one once reserved for George IV 251 00:22:54,172 --> 00:22:55,696 ing of England 252 00:22:55,841 --> 00:22:59,675 A cask was dedicated to Napoleon in 1812 253 00:22:59,811 --> 00:23:01,506 And after the battle of Trafalgar 254 00:23:01,646 --> 00:23:04,376 Admiral Lord Nelson's body was shipped to England 255 00:23:04,516 --> 00:23:09,613 perfectly preserved in a cask of brandy and sherry 256 00:23:15,727 --> 00:23:16,853 At his nearby estate 257 00:23:16,995 --> 00:23:19,759 one of the 500 relatives who are shareholders 258 00:23:19,898 --> 00:23:24,301 in the Domecq corporation indulges in another family passion 259 00:23:27,339 --> 00:23:29,204 For 20 years Alvaro Domecq 260 00:23:29,341 --> 00:23:30,638 like his father before him 261 00:23:30,776 --> 00:23:36,043 was famed for his prowess in the Spanish art of bullfighting on horseback 262 00:23:36,381 --> 00:23:39,316 Today, he raises fine Andalucian horses 263 00:23:39,451 --> 00:23:41,749 and hulls to fight in the ring 264 00:24:43,181 --> 00:24:47,743 Bullfighting was once the leisure pastime of gentlemen on horseback 265 00:24:51,923 --> 00:24:54,721 Farmhands assisted with their capes 266 00:25:05,470 --> 00:25:08,962 Modern bullfighting performed by professionals on foot began 267 00:25:09,107 --> 00:25:11,575 only two centuries ago 268 00:25:12,444 --> 00:25:18,178 Bullfights are the highlight of the annual April Fair in nearby Jerez 269 00:25:18,316 --> 00:25:22,514 For this special event six local breeders each enter a superior bull 270 00:25:22,654 --> 00:25:25,885 in the competition for Best of the Year 271 00:25:32,731 --> 00:25:33,755 Domecq is here 272 00:25:33,899 --> 00:25:35,799 sharing the crowd's anticipation 273 00:25:35,934 --> 00:25:41,497 and hoping his bull will bring honor to the family's reputation as breeders 274 00:25:47,712 --> 00:25:48,770 Victor Mendes 275 00:25:48,914 --> 00:25:50,745 the matador who will face that bull 276 00:25:50,882 --> 00:25:55,649 prepares for his test as he dons the traditional suit of lights 277 00:26:08,199 --> 00:26:10,360 The bullring manager and other well-wishers 278 00:26:10,502 --> 00:26:12,265 come bearing the only protection 279 00:26:12,404 --> 00:26:16,272 they can offer "Suerte" good luck 280 00:26:37,729 --> 00:26:40,289 As his sword handler makes final adjustments 281 00:26:40,432 --> 00:26:42,525 Mendes reflects on the trial ahead 282 00:26:42,667 --> 00:26:48,071 It's now a fight or game between the rational and the irrational 283 00:26:48,206 --> 00:26:52,267 if is possible to arrive to the death 284 00:26:52,410 --> 00:26:54,844 the death of the bull 285 00:26:55,680 --> 00:26:58,808 But sometimes, the death of the man 286 00:27:03,054 --> 00:27:05,818 To the Spaniard the bullfight is not a game 287 00:27:05,957 --> 00:27:10,792 but a revered ritual not a sport but an art 288 00:27:27,479 --> 00:27:30,710 lts origins can be traced to pagan sacrifices 289 00:27:30,849 --> 00:27:33,943 and to ancient Greek and Roman games 290 00:27:44,429 --> 00:27:47,125 In its beauty, glorification of bravery 291 00:27:47,265 --> 00:27:48,960 and disdain for death 292 00:27:49,100 --> 00:27:53,662 the bullfight embodies traditional values of Spanish life 293 00:27:58,176 --> 00:27:59,404 More than spectacle 294 00:27:59,544 --> 00:28:01,409 this is mythic theater 295 00:28:01,546 --> 00:28:04,709 in which the drama of life and death is reenacted 296 00:28:04,849 --> 00:28:06,510 culminating in the predictable 297 00:28:06,651 --> 00:28:08,016 but by no means certain 298 00:28:08,153 --> 00:28:10,883 death of a noble beast. 299 00:28:13,692 --> 00:28:16,354 In recent years it has lost popularity 300 00:28:16,494 --> 00:28:18,086 and there is increasing disquiet 301 00:28:18,229 --> 00:28:23,690 among a minority of Spaniards about the morality of their "national fiesta 302 00:28:24,969 --> 00:28:25,833 But for some 303 00:28:25,970 --> 00:28:31,237 it remains an irreplaceable thread in the fabric of their heritage 304 00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:49,223 As the afternoon turns to evening 305 00:28:49,360 --> 00:28:52,557 crowds begin to gather at the fairgrounds 306 00:28:59,137 --> 00:29:04,541 In this weeklong celebration women wear traditional Andalucian dresses 307 00:29:04,676 --> 00:29:09,773 friends meet, sip sherry, make music, and dance 308 00:29:19,557 --> 00:29:22,287 The region of Extremadura in western Spain 309 00:29:22,427 --> 00:29:25,487 has always been harsh and ungiving 310 00:29:26,831 --> 00:29:28,355 For decades Azuaga 311 00:29:28,500 --> 00:29:31,765 like many small agricultural and mining towns 312 00:29:31,903 --> 00:29:35,634 has slowly but steadily lost its population 313 00:29:36,541 --> 00:29:41,706 The future looks bleak unless young people can be persuaded to stay 314 00:29:52,857 --> 00:29:56,657 Among the few professionals here is a husband-and-wife team of doctors 315 00:29:56,795 --> 00:29:58,763 assigned to the local clinic 316 00:29:58,897 --> 00:30:01,058 Their 16-year-old daughter, Alicia 317 00:30:01,199 --> 00:30:04,691 feels trapped in the stifling atmosphere 318 00:30:20,518 --> 00:30:21,883 This is a small town 319 00:30:22,020 --> 00:30:24,181 There isn't much for me to do 320 00:30:25,757 --> 00:30:27,918 I'm not sure whether so stay or leave 321 00:30:28,059 --> 00:30:29,117 I'll probably leave 322 00:30:29,260 --> 00:30:31,524 but I still haven't decided 323 00:30:36,634 --> 00:30:39,398 The lack of entertainment career opportunities 324 00:30:39,537 --> 00:30:41,664 even participation in sports 325 00:30:41,806 --> 00:30:45,435 all make teenagers yearn for greater freedom 326 00:30:45,577 --> 00:30:49,536 The old ways hold no allure for the young generation 327 00:31:09,100 --> 00:31:12,194 When Alicia's parents accept job offers in Seville 328 00:31:12,337 --> 00:31:14,328 she is thrilled to go with them 329 00:31:14,472 --> 00:31:20,001 She will become one of the thousands who seek new lives in big cities 330 00:31:35,393 --> 00:31:36,951 Spain's new constitution 331 00:31:37,095 --> 00:31:41,361 carefully spells out the equality of opportunity for men and women 332 00:31:41,799 --> 00:31:42,697 After high school 333 00:31:42,834 --> 00:31:46,668 Alicia hopes to join the growing ranks of working women 334 00:31:47,772 --> 00:31:51,105 "Then after a couple of years when I've mastered that job 335 00:31:51,242 --> 00:31:53,073 I'll study business management 336 00:31:53,211 --> 00:31:56,044 and after that join a big company 337 00:31:58,816 --> 00:32:03,378 I'd work my way to the top and eventually have my own company 338 00:32:04,923 --> 00:32:07,391 As a businesswoman I'd travel 339 00:32:07,525 --> 00:32:10,494 I'd like to travel a lot in my work 340 00:32:16,334 --> 00:32:18,928 Today, many women are entering the ranks of leadership 341 00:32:19,070 --> 00:32:21,903 in government politics, and commerce 342 00:32:22,040 --> 00:32:25,271 The unemployment rate of women is twice that of men 343 00:32:25,410 --> 00:32:26,638 But like Alicia 344 00:32:26,778 --> 00:32:29,338 they pursue an alluring dream 345 00:32:48,066 --> 00:32:51,331 Spain's greatest contemporary poet Garcia Lorca 346 00:32:51,469 --> 00:32:56,532 described flamenco as deeper than the heart of the one creating it 347 00:32:56,674 --> 00:32:58,904 and the voice singing it 348 00:32:59,043 --> 00:33:04,071 It comes from the first sob and the first kiss 349 00:33:04,215 --> 00:33:06,445 Flamenco was born in Andalucia 350 00:33:06,584 --> 00:33:11,214 when Arabic and Spanish music mingled with the songs of the Jews 351 00:33:11,356 --> 00:33:13,324 The gypsies were to abopt it and 352 00:33:13,458 --> 00:33:16,825 in their wanderings carry it throughout Spain 353 00:33:21,299 --> 00:33:22,926 Francisca Sadornil 354 00:33:23,067 --> 00:33:24,625 La Tati as she is known 355 00:33:24,769 --> 00:33:27,067 was born here in Madrid 356 00:33:29,607 --> 00:33:31,905 She learned flamenco dancing from gypsies 357 00:33:32,043 --> 00:33:33,874 married a gypsy in her youth 358 00:33:34,012 --> 00:33:36,071 and remains among the rare outsiders 359 00:33:36,214 --> 00:33:39,706 accepted by them artistically and socially 360 00:33:40,451 --> 00:33:43,045 A professional dancer from the age of 12 361 00:33:43,187 --> 00:33:46,918 La Tati has dedicated her life to flamenco 362 00:33:49,460 --> 00:33:53,396 And flamenco has taken La Tati from a working-class neighborhood 363 00:33:53,531 --> 00:33:56,466 to the concert stages of the world 364 00:34:04,976 --> 00:34:06,671 She reminisces 365 00:34:09,881 --> 00:34:13,317 I can't remember a time when I didn't dance 366 00:34:16,888 --> 00:34:18,719 I was born on Toledo Street 367 00:34:18,856 --> 00:34:22,622 and there all the neighbors were Andalucians and gypsies 368 00:34:23,594 --> 00:34:27,690 At No.5 of the Plaza de la Cascorro was Quica 369 00:34:27,832 --> 00:34:30,300 the dancing professor of Seville 370 00:34:30,435 --> 00:34:33,598 I went to Quica when I was about seven 371 00:34:34,038 --> 00:34:35,835 I never paid for a dancing class 372 00:34:35,973 --> 00:34:38,567 because there was not money in my family 373 00:34:38,709 --> 00:34:41,906 I slept at the academy on a mattress between chairs 374 00:34:42,046 --> 00:34:44,037 I helped Quica clean the academy 375 00:34:44,182 --> 00:34:45,479 and did the errands 376 00:34:45,616 --> 00:34:48,813 and this way I learned to dance 377 00:34:53,758 --> 00:34:57,819 Today, she passes her knowledge to a new generation 378 00:35:08,773 --> 00:35:10,900 She reflects on teaching 379 00:35:13,211 --> 00:35:14,303 With recording 380 00:35:14,445 --> 00:35:18,848 singers and movie actors can leave their way of singing and playing music 381 00:35:18,983 --> 00:35:21,975 but with dancing it's a little more difficult 382 00:35:23,688 --> 00:35:25,383 If you don't do it through teaching 383 00:35:25,523 --> 00:35:27,821 you can't leave a school of dance 384 00:35:27,959 --> 00:35:31,360 This is why I like teaching very much 385 00:36:04,495 --> 00:36:06,690 La Tati is highly sought as a teacher 386 00:36:06,831 --> 00:36:07,889 But as an artist 387 00:36:08,032 --> 00:36:11,900 she gets her deepest satisfaction from performance 388 00:36:14,972 --> 00:36:17,532 My life is shaped on the stage 389 00:36:17,675 --> 00:36:20,337 All that I feel or live for, everything 390 00:36:20,478 --> 00:36:23,174 all my suffering and all my glory 391 00:36:23,314 --> 00:36:26,283 all my life is on the stage 392 00:36:32,223 --> 00:36:35,681 She rehearses for a tour that will take her to France 393 00:36:53,511 --> 00:36:55,001 The quality of flamenco 394 00:36:55,146 --> 00:36:59,708 is to get out of a difficult situation of crying and of sorrow 395 00:36:59,850 --> 00:37:02,580 to get into an explosion of happinesse 396 00:37:02,720 --> 00:37:06,622 and a feeling born in the soul and the heart 397 00:37:07,158 --> 00:37:11,185 Flamenco is an expression of the soul 398 00:37:56,173 --> 00:38:00,109 The guitar is the instrument of Spain 399 00:38:01,012 --> 00:38:03,503 In the working-class neighborhood where he grew up 400 00:38:03,648 --> 00:38:09,211 Arcangel Ferbabdez has hand-crafted guitars for 36 years 401 00:38:16,260 --> 00:38:19,457 I had my first job at 11 as a furniture maker 402 00:38:19,597 --> 00:38:22,589 Later I became fond of playing the guitar 403 00:38:22,733 --> 00:38:25,497 I started to play flamenco 404 00:38:28,239 --> 00:38:31,800 Then I met a great maestro of guitar making 405 00:38:31,942 --> 00:38:34,274 one of the best in the world 406 00:38:38,582 --> 00:38:42,643 Since I had found that the artistic environment was not much to my liking 407 00:38:42,787 --> 00:38:46,120 I found myself turning to guitar making 408 00:38:54,031 --> 00:38:54,725 Only fine 409 00:38:54,865 --> 00:38:59,165 imported woods are used to create the body of the guitar 410 00:38:59,570 --> 00:39:01,800 They are carefully heated and shaped 411 00:39:01,939 --> 00:39:06,137 as the craftsman gradually brings the instrument to life 412 00:39:13,784 --> 00:39:18,050 To make a good handcrafted guitar you need at least one month 413 00:39:18,189 --> 00:39:21,784 The difference between handcrafted and infactory guitars are many 414 00:39:21,926 --> 00:39:23,484 starting with marterials 415 00:39:23,627 --> 00:39:26,619 The materials we use are quite expensive 416 00:39:27,732 --> 00:39:31,395 You must have knowledge of the trade and put live into your work 417 00:39:31,535 --> 00:39:34,663 For me that is the secret for making a good guitar 418 00:39:34,805 --> 00:39:36,272 Nothing else 419 00:39:56,627 --> 00:39:58,686 Signed and numbered by the craftsman 420 00:39:58,829 --> 00:40:03,994 a finished instrument may cost from two to ten thousand dollars 421 00:40:27,992 --> 00:40:30,119 Through this artist's expression 422 00:40:30,261 --> 00:40:34,391 the guitar gives voice to the Spanish soul 423 00:41:11,569 --> 00:41:13,935 During the decades of Franco's dictatorship 424 00:41:14,071 --> 00:41:18,770 the Catholic Church was able to legally enforce its rigid doctrines 425 00:41:20,244 --> 00:41:21,836 Even between engaged couples 426 00:41:21,979 --> 00:41:24,004 premarital contact was forbidden 427 00:41:24,148 --> 00:41:27,447 by the strictures of traditional courtship 428 00:41:27,885 --> 00:41:30,285 Among the middle and upper classes a single woman 429 00:41:30,421 --> 00:41:34,983 could not go out without a female chaperone to watch over her 430 00:41:37,728 --> 00:41:39,491 Today young woman go out alone 431 00:41:39,630 --> 00:41:43,031 and party at bars until 4 a. M 432 00:41:50,741 --> 00:41:54,677 Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is among the contemporary Spanish women 433 00:41:54,812 --> 00:41:58,646 who now define their own roles in society 434 00:42:08,359 --> 00:42:11,487 Agatha lives in a quiet Madrid suburb with her son 435 00:42:11,629 --> 00:42:14,393 Tristan, and the boy's father 436 00:42:22,106 --> 00:42:26,702 Her seemingly bourgeois home life is not quite what it appears 437 00:42:26,844 --> 00:42:30,837 My mother and father separate when I have more or less 12 438 00:42:30,981 --> 00:42:33,643 And my mother goes to live to Barcelona 439 00:42:33,784 --> 00:42:35,251 So for me it was very nice 440 00:42:35,386 --> 00:42:38,913 because I have two cities and two houses 441 00:42:39,056 --> 00:42:43,117 and I have always the liberty of choosing one or the other 442 00:42:43,260 --> 00:42:46,627 I have never believed in marriage 443 00:42:46,764 --> 00:42:48,732 Liberty is very important for me 444 00:42:48,866 --> 00:42:53,530 and marriage is something that I don't like 445 00:42:58,642 --> 00:43:02,078 Ruiz de la Prada is a designer and business woman 446 00:43:02,680 --> 00:43:04,443 These dolls, whose costumes 447 00:43:04,582 --> 00:43:09,645 she creates, sold over a million in Spain alone last year 448 00:43:14,625 --> 00:43:18,026 She also designs highly original clothing 449 00:43:21,665 --> 00:43:22,597 When I was little 450 00:43:22,733 --> 00:43:26,464 I wanted to be a painter 451 00:43:26,604 --> 00:43:30,062 One thing that I have ever hate 452 00:43:30,207 --> 00:43:38,876 is the big distance between a picture on a wall and the way that people live 453 00:43:39,016 --> 00:43:40,347 I think that you 454 00:43:40,484 --> 00:43:42,315 when you like some picture 455 00:43:42,453 --> 00:43:43,784 you must wear it. No? 456 00:43:43,921 --> 00:43:45,320 And you must eat with it 457 00:43:45,456 --> 00:43:47,117 and you must sleep with it 458 00:43:47,257 --> 00:43:50,886 You must put it in your life No? 459 00:43:57,167 --> 00:43:59,931 Humorous and deliberately outrageous 460 00:44:00,070 --> 00:44:03,699 her design has brought her international recognition 461 00:44:13,784 --> 00:44:14,876 The impulse behind them 462 00:44:15,019 --> 00:44:18,716 in fact, springs from a traditionally Spanish attitude 463 00:44:18,856 --> 00:44:21,950 that of the rugged individualist 464 00:44:47,484 --> 00:44:48,917 Barcelona 465 00:44:49,053 --> 00:44:52,784 Spanish's largest seaport the nation's second city 466 00:44:52,923 --> 00:44:55,357 and industrial powerhouse 467 00:44:58,562 --> 00:45:00,757 Barcelona is also the center of a rich 468 00:45:00,898 --> 00:45:04,095 and highly original artistic tradition 469 00:45:06,103 --> 00:45:09,266 This legacy is evident everywhere... 470 00:45:09,406 --> 00:45:14,070 in a mosaic pavement created by the great Joan Miro... 471 00:45:18,749 --> 00:45:20,717 A design created by Picasso 472 00:45:20,851 --> 00:45:24,844 in his self-imposed exile during the Franco years... 473 00:45:32,196 --> 00:45:36,963 and the undulating curves of a facade by Antonio Gaudi 474 00:45:38,168 --> 00:45:41,433 A genius who used the sinuous forms of nature 475 00:45:41,572 --> 00:45:44,234 as the vocabulary for his architecture 476 00:45:44,374 --> 00:45:48,504 Gaudi was dubbed visionary-and madman 477 00:45:54,084 --> 00:45:55,278 Son of a coppersmith 478 00:45:55,419 --> 00:45:58,149 he was modest and self-effacing 479 00:45:58,288 --> 00:46:01,314 refused by the one woman to whom he proposed 480 00:46:01,458 --> 00:46:06,794 he would dedicate his life exclusively to architecture and God 481 00:46:07,698 --> 00:46:08,995 He maintained 482 00:46:09,133 --> 00:46:13,069 God continues creation through man 483 00:46:14,838 --> 00:46:16,738 In 1884 he began work 484 00:46:16,874 --> 00:46:22,141 in the Sagrada Familia the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family 485 00:46:22,279 --> 00:46:25,248 It would be his masterpiece 486 00:46:27,050 --> 00:46:28,745 But in 1926 487 00:46:28,886 --> 00:46:33,448 returning from evening church services to sleep in his workshop 488 00:46:33,590 --> 00:46:36,457 Gaudi was struck by a streetcar 489 00:46:36,593 --> 00:46:40,029 Three days later he died 490 00:46:42,766 --> 00:46:47,328 Thousands followed the funeral cortege to his final resting place 491 00:46:47,471 --> 00:46:51,134 the crypt of his unfurnished basilica 492 00:46:57,548 --> 00:47:01,644 Today, Gaudi's vision continues to take shape above him 493 00:47:03,921 --> 00:47:04,751 From the beginning 494 00:47:04,888 --> 00:47:08,221 construction has been funded by public donations 495 00:47:11,929 --> 00:47:16,025 Only some 50 artists and craftsmen are employed 496 00:47:20,404 --> 00:47:21,803 Architect Jordi Bonet 497 00:47:21,939 --> 00:47:25,340 like his father a specialist in the works of Gaudi 498 00:47:25,475 --> 00:47:28,911 has been entrusted with completion of the building 499 00:47:34,084 --> 00:47:36,018 As much a sculptor as an architect 500 00:47:36,153 --> 00:47:40,522 Gaudi preferred to make models rather than work from drawings 501 00:47:41,558 --> 00:47:42,320 Using them 502 00:47:42,459 --> 00:47:46,691 Bonet is able to continue according to Gaudi's concept 503 00:47:54,671 --> 00:47:55,968 A model of the nave 504 00:47:56,106 --> 00:47:57,664 the central part of the church 505 00:47:57,808 --> 00:48:03,303 reveals columns whose design was inspired by shapes found in nature 506 00:48:03,881 --> 00:48:06,577 They will support the ceiling of the nave 507 00:48:06,717 --> 00:48:10,983 filling the shell that has stood empty for over a century 508 00:48:15,225 --> 00:48:20,128 With all of these Gaudi original elements 509 00:48:20,264 --> 00:48:28,933 it is possible to continue it and to build in his place the nave 510 00:48:29,072 --> 00:48:32,974 But it is not so easy to continue it 511 00:48:33,110 --> 00:48:39,538 but I hope to have or to honor in the same spirit of Gaudi 512 00:48:39,683 --> 00:48:46,316 And for them we are working with all our forces to make the best 513 00:48:46,456 --> 00:48:49,721 Gaudi said the nave of this temple 514 00:48:49,860 --> 00:48:54,490 is a forest with the columns as the trees 515 00:48:54,631 --> 00:49:00,297 And then the light comes through this forest of columns 516 00:49:00,370 --> 00:49:01,496 little columns 517 00:49:01,638 --> 00:49:03,265 big columns 518 00:49:03,407 --> 00:49:05,102 It's a forest 519 00:49:08,345 --> 00:49:13,874 Gaudi's dream was that this church would be a beacon of the Christian faith 520 00:49:14,484 --> 00:49:17,942 Every year hundreds of thousands from throughout the world 521 00:49:18,088 --> 00:49:21,615 visit his unfinished poem in stone 522 00:49:22,092 --> 00:49:24,322 a structure one architectural historian 523 00:49:24,461 --> 00:49:31,867 has called the greatest ecclesiastical monument of the last one hundred years 524 00:49:40,243 --> 00:49:42,575 Holy week. Across the nation 525 00:49:42,713 --> 00:49:45,580 cities and villages ready for a ritual of faith 526 00:49:45,716 --> 00:49:48,708 that occurs in few places outside Spain 527 00:49:48,852 --> 00:49:52,720 and nowhere with more passion that in Seville 528 00:49:58,795 --> 00:50:03,960 Manolo Acosta dresses in the garb of an ancient religious brotherhood 529 00:50:06,403 --> 00:50:11,670 For me, Holy Friday is one of the fundamental things of my life... 530 00:50:11,808 --> 00:50:16,472 so important that I am thinking about that day the whole year 531 00:50:21,151 --> 00:50:22,846 With his brotherhood he will accompany 532 00:50:22,986 --> 00:50:28,515 sacred figures form their neighborhood church to Seville's cathedral and back 533 00:50:44,808 --> 00:50:47,333 Thousands gather in anticipation of the moment 534 00:50:47,477 --> 00:50:53,279 when a priceless, handcarved image of the Virgin emerges from the cathedral 535 00:51:18,308 --> 00:51:23,803 Platforms called pasos support lavish figures of the sorrowing Virgin Mother 536 00:51:23,947 --> 00:51:27,110 Christ, and scenes of his passion 537 00:51:31,021 --> 00:51:32,784 From Palm Sunday until Easter 538 00:51:32,923 --> 00:51:37,724 processions retrace the Stations of the Cross 539 00:51:46,336 --> 00:51:49,533 Proceeding blindly under the directions of a guide 540 00:51:49,673 --> 00:51:55,305 30-40 bearers support the pasos which may weigh up to two tons 541 00:52:06,289 --> 00:52:07,813 Marching with their brotherhoods 542 00:52:07,958 --> 00:52:12,691 thousands of penitents atone for sins committed through the year 543 00:52:15,232 --> 00:52:16,563 They wear masks and hoods 544 00:52:16,700 --> 00:52:22,502 designed centuries ago to conceal the sinners from all but God 545 00:52:52,335 --> 00:52:56,101 As the people of Spain approach the 21 st century 546 00:52:56,239 --> 00:52:59,470 they seek to define their new identity 547 00:52:59,609 --> 00:53:03,511 strengthened by the timeless elements of Spanish life 548 00:53:03,647 --> 00:53:06,445 the ardor for spectacle and beauty 549 00:53:06,583 --> 00:53:10,349 the rich history, proud land 550 00:53:10,487 --> 00:53:16,392 and enduring traditions that are the soul of Spain