1 00:00:18,051 --> 00:00:21,350 India is a land of dreams 2 00:00:21,888 --> 00:00:27,952 Where images, however fleeting are remembered long after the journey's end 3 00:00:50,750 --> 00:00:55,813 The railway is her lifeline crossing not only distances 4 00:00:55,955 --> 00:00:59,356 But bridging the boundaries of her many cultures 5 00:01:05,198 --> 00:01:12,764 For over 900 million people the railway has become a great unifier 6 00:01:15,842 --> 00:01:20,074 over one-and-a-half million must work to keep it going 7 00:01:42,735 --> 00:01:47,104 The great Indian railway touches the lives of everyone 8 00:01:49,709 --> 00:01:52,576 For nothing is more a part of this country 9 00:01:52,712 --> 00:01:56,614 than the trains which are part of its soul 10 00:03:24,404 --> 00:03:26,304 Over a century ago 11 00:03:26,439 --> 00:03:30,500 the sound of the steam locomotive could be heard across the land 12 00:03:30,643 --> 00:03:34,739 as it rolled through the desert and the plains of India 13 00:03:39,586 --> 00:03:40,484 In those days 14 00:03:40,620 --> 00:03:44,556 villages and cities were isolated by vast distances 15 00:03:44,691 --> 00:03:48,422 and the coming of the train woul change them forever 16 00:03:52,498 --> 00:03:57,561 Legends were told of the great fire eater that walked on lines of steel 17 00:03:57,704 --> 00:04:01,037 and breathed white clouds of smoke 18 00:04:01,174 --> 00:04:06,771 Those who did not fear it came to see it for themselves 19 00:04:07,313 --> 00:04:10,771 In remote outposts where there were no stations 20 00:04:10,917 --> 00:04:14,045 banyan trees often marked the train stop 21 00:04:14,187 --> 00:04:20,217 And people anticipated its arrival like the coming of a great ship 22 00:04:26,165 --> 00:04:29,464 There was always entertainment to greet the travelers 23 00:04:29,602 --> 00:04:34,164 celebrating the trip for themagical event that is was 24 00:04:34,307 --> 00:04:40,974 What had taken weeks by bullock cart could now be made in a matter of days 25 00:04:43,516 --> 00:04:46,144 The hero was the driver 26 00:04:46,286 --> 00:04:49,653 He was assigned one engine for life 27 00:04:49,789 --> 00:04:52,952 and cared for it as though it were a part of him 28 00:04:53,092 --> 00:04:57,085 making sure it was fed coal and watered 29 00:04:57,230 --> 00:05:03,135 It was like a living creature preparing for the long journey ahead 30 00:05:09,909 --> 00:05:13,538 If there ever was a heart and soul of the railway 31 00:05:13,680 --> 00:05:14,977 it began here 32 00:05:15,114 --> 00:05:17,412 with these locomotives 33 00:05:17,917 --> 00:05:21,216 They were the symbol of the British Empire 34 00:05:21,354 --> 00:05:23,914 and held the romance of an age 35 00:05:24,057 --> 00:05:29,461 when men and machines united the country for the first time 36 00:05:38,938 --> 00:05:42,135 But this era couldn't last forever 37 00:05:46,846 --> 00:05:51,249 Now, the superfast express trains command the rails 38 00:05:51,384 --> 00:05:55,150 and are moving India into a new century 39 00:06:03,663 --> 00:06:08,362 The railway is a living legacy of the British, who dominated the subcontinent 40 00:06:08,501 --> 00:06:11,197 for nearly two hundred years 41 00:06:11,571 --> 00:06:14,972 They laid down the first rails in 1850 42 00:06:15,108 --> 00:06:18,441 and by Indian independence dozens of railways 43 00:06:18,578 --> 00:06:22,480 reached across hundreds of princely states and territories. 44 00:06:23,850 --> 00:06:27,115 Today, all have been merged into one 45 00:06:27,253 --> 00:06:29,619 Stretching nearly 40,000 miles 46 00:06:29,756 --> 00:06:32,589 and connecting over 7,000 stations 47 00:06:32,725 --> 00:06:37,219 it is the largest railway under a single management in the world 48 00:06:45,571 --> 00:06:50,406 The frontier Mail, the Tamil-Nadu Express the Punjab Mail 49 00:06:50,543 --> 00:06:54,104 all long-distance trains, renowned in history 50 00:06:54,247 --> 00:06:57,341 But one of the oldest is the Grand Trunk Express 51 00:06:57,483 --> 00:07:00,919 and it travels nearly the length of the country 52 00:07:04,857 --> 00:07:06,882 Indians love to travel 53 00:07:07,026 --> 00:07:11,258 whether it be on a religious pilgrimage or to visit relatives far away 54 00:07:11,397 --> 00:07:14,491 They pack everything and bring everyone 55 00:07:14,634 --> 00:07:19,037 They can go anywhere in the country for less than seven dollars 56 00:07:21,107 --> 00:07:25,168 Space has a whole different meaning on an Indian train 57 00:07:25,311 --> 00:07:27,506 People like to sit next to each other 58 00:07:27,647 --> 00:07:29,740 talk and share stories 59 00:07:29,882 --> 00:07:33,477 And a stranger isn't a stranger for long 60 00:07:51,337 --> 00:07:53,362 More than 11,000 trains 61 00:07:53,506 --> 00:07:55,872 Travel through India everyday 62 00:07:56,008 --> 00:07:58,806 But it's in the three-tier second-class coaches that 63 00:07:58,945 --> 00:08:02,506 the real spirit of the country can be found 64 00:08:04,016 --> 00:08:06,007 If anyone wants to know what India is all about 65 00:08:06,152 --> 00:08:07,949 you could just travel in one of these trains 66 00:08:08,087 --> 00:08:09,145 and you could talk to people you see 67 00:08:09,288 --> 00:08:12,621 You'll actually meet people from different parts of the country 68 00:08:12,758 --> 00:08:16,819 and you can actually have a look into the various cultures 69 00:08:16,963 --> 00:08:19,022 you see, now there's a cultural diversity in India 70 00:08:19,165 --> 00:08:21,725 You can actually enjoy this cultural diversity traveling 71 00:08:21,868 --> 00:08:23,130 in such long trains say from 72 00:08:23,269 --> 00:08:25,965 which go from one end of the nation to the other end 73 00:08:26,105 --> 00:08:28,130 Such long trains you can enjoy if you are really interested 74 00:08:28,274 --> 00:08:30,742 you'll definitely you will experience it 75 00:08:49,061 --> 00:08:54,055 Every Indian train has ticketless passengers who are part of its character: 76 00:08:54,200 --> 00:08:56,725 Gypsies, beggars, and sweeper boys 77 00:08:56,869 --> 00:09:00,930 who make their living earning tips between stations 78 00:09:01,374 --> 00:09:03,604 I meet every type of people here 79 00:09:03,743 --> 00:09:04,903 Maybe they are millionaires 80 00:09:05,044 --> 00:09:07,535 they are the poorest 81 00:09:07,680 --> 00:09:09,807 They are engineers, doctors, bankers 82 00:09:09,949 --> 00:09:12,213 Every type of persons I am meeting here 83 00:09:12,351 --> 00:09:13,545 And when I travel I talk 84 00:09:13,686 --> 00:09:15,654 I have an opportunity to talk to them 85 00:09:15,788 --> 00:09:17,722 make friendship with them 86 00:09:17,857 --> 00:09:20,052 We sometimes come closer to them 87 00:09:20,192 --> 00:09:22,922 and we become family friends for life 88 00:09:43,516 --> 00:09:44,346 For centuries 89 00:09:44,483 --> 00:09:47,577 explorers have been drawn to the east 90 00:09:47,720 --> 00:09:50,780 In the 1660's the British took possession 91 00:09:50,923 --> 00:09:55,053 of the strand of islands that curved into the Arabian Sea 92 00:09:56,462 --> 00:10:00,523 They would make them the great port city of Bombay 93 00:10:00,933 --> 00:10:07,771 Their Gateway of India still stands as a memory of their empire's former glory 94 00:10:10,309 --> 00:10:14,405 Bombay's now one of India's fastest-growing cities 95 00:10:16,716 --> 00:10:21,119 And the British presence seems unchanged at Victoria Terminus 96 00:10:21,253 --> 00:10:23,619 Opened in 1888 97 00:10:23,756 --> 00:10:27,522 it was built on the site of the first railway station 98 00:10:28,060 --> 00:10:31,496 But now it's the headquarters of Central 99 00:10:31,631 --> 00:10:35,397 the busiest of nine zones in the Indian railway 100 00:10:38,337 --> 00:10:40,498 From this historic place 101 00:10:40,640 --> 00:10:45,077 one of the most important me in the railway oversees his domain 102 00:10:45,211 --> 00:10:49,079 This is the seat of power of the General Manager 103 00:10:56,088 --> 00:10:57,180 Every morning 104 00:10:57,323 --> 00:10:59,814 Birendra Vishnu calls upon his officers 105 00:10:59,959 --> 00:11:03,827 to account for every detail in a monumental system 106 00:11:03,963 --> 00:11:06,830 From major accidents to minor delays 107 00:11:06,966 --> 00:11:09,696 nothing escapes his attention 108 00:11:14,140 --> 00:11:18,543 It was from this same office that the British ran their railway 109 00:11:18,678 --> 00:11:21,408 And with independence in 1947 110 00:11:21,547 --> 00:11:24,516 they turned it over to Indian leadership 111 00:11:28,087 --> 00:11:32,353 But now the G. M. Controls a far more complex network 112 00:11:32,491 --> 00:11:38,054 with 200,000 men beneath him he runs 2,000 trains a day 113 00:11:39,498 --> 00:11:41,295 Ah Madhan 114 00:11:41,434 --> 00:11:43,265 What is happening today? 115 00:11:43,402 --> 00:11:45,768 What are your prospects of loading? 116 00:11:45,905 --> 00:11:48,237 Sir, yesterday, we made 8.5 117 00:11:48,374 --> 00:11:49,807 Alright, you just speak to C. M. E 118 00:11:49,942 --> 00:11:53,173 Your diesel utilization has slumped 119 00:11:53,312 --> 00:11:54,836 Your diesel utilization is slumped 120 00:11:54,980 --> 00:11:58,916 Your six-wagon balances in all the yards are heavy 121 00:11:59,051 --> 00:12:01,884 The stable loads are heavy Just speak to C. M. E. 122 00:12:04,056 --> 00:12:09,460 Hello Madhan? Ah, Rambu Rao, utny shed 123 00:12:09,595 --> 00:12:10,892 for the last fifteen days 124 00:12:11,030 --> 00:12:14,227 it has been having very high failure rate 125 00:12:15,868 --> 00:12:18,234 Vishnu is more than a figurehead 126 00:12:18,370 --> 00:12:20,031 If something goes wrong 127 00:12:20,172 --> 00:12:23,107 he shoulders the full responsibility 128 00:12:23,242 --> 00:12:24,436 And every month 129 00:12:24,577 --> 00:12:29,207 he makes it a point to leave his office and visit his men in the fiel 130 00:12:39,825 --> 00:12:41,986 Like a present-day maharaja 131 00:12:42,128 --> 00:12:46,064 Vishnu holds court in his private inspection coach 132 00:12:46,198 --> 00:12:48,826 with full kitchen staff in attendance 133 00:12:48,968 --> 00:12:53,029 and all the ceremonies inherited from his predecessors 134 00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:58,939 The Indian Railways constitute the lifeline of India 135 00:12:59,078 --> 00:13:01,808 And it was given to us by the British 136 00:13:01,947 --> 00:13:04,245 They gave us two things 137 00:13:04,383 --> 00:13:06,044 The Indian railways 138 00:13:06,185 --> 00:13:13,114 and a very powerful administrative system run by the bureaucrats 139 00:13:15,294 --> 00:13:17,558 We are now going on an inspection trip 140 00:13:17,696 --> 00:13:19,254 And during this inspection trip 141 00:13:19,398 --> 00:13:24,927 we propose to go over the entire railway lines 142 00:13:25,070 --> 00:13:28,164 See what management techniques are there 143 00:13:28,307 --> 00:13:31,299 See how the cabins, the points 144 00:13:31,443 --> 00:13:36,039 and the people who manage these points look after themselves 145 00:13:36,182 --> 00:13:38,241 and look over the equipment 146 00:13:38,384 --> 00:13:41,820 Each one has his area of responsibility 147 00:13:41,954 --> 00:13:46,254 And a super-check has to be exercised 148 00:13:46,392 --> 00:13:47,882 So when we go out line 149 00:13:48,027 --> 00:13:52,361 our objective is to find out what deficiencies are there 150 00:13:52,498 --> 00:13:56,457 And take measures to overcome them 151 00:13:59,305 --> 00:14:03,298 No single person can possibly check on everything 152 00:14:03,442 --> 00:14:08,402 The system depends on workers whose dedication goes largely unseen 153 00:14:10,516 --> 00:14:12,450 Under the eyes of the cabinmen 154 00:14:12,585 --> 00:14:17,852 tens of thousand of coaches transport more than 12 million people a day 155 00:14:17,990 --> 00:14:22,256 And one mistake can cost thousands of lives 156 00:14:25,130 --> 00:14:27,598 For this is a human railway 157 00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:32,261 where the strength of a lever man means the safe passage of a train 158 00:14:37,009 --> 00:14:39,876 It is the largest employer in the world 159 00:14:40,012 --> 00:14:44,676 Officially, 1.6 million work for the railway 160 00:14:44,817 --> 00:14:46,216 But Vishnu estimates that 161 00:14:46,352 --> 00:14:50,618 nearly 80 million people depend on it for their livelihood 162 00:15:02,701 --> 00:15:06,569 The Grand Trunk Express continues southbound 163 00:15:06,705 --> 00:15:11,699 The trip from New Delhi to Mardras will last 38 hours 164 00:15:11,844 --> 00:15:14,745 But for many, the journey is an adventure 165 00:15:14,880 --> 00:15:18,247 And it doesn't matter how long it takes 166 00:15:27,426 --> 00:15:32,295 Long-distance trains have become temporary homes for village India 167 00:15:32,431 --> 00:15:36,629 And those on board are captive audiences for ticketless travelers 168 00:15:36,769 --> 00:15:38,031 who earn their keep 169 00:15:38,170 --> 00:15:41,936 providing everything from entertainment to food 170 00:15:43,008 --> 00:15:46,466 On a train, meals are a big event 171 00:15:46,612 --> 00:15:51,515 and passengers are constantly being solicited with different kinds of fare 172 00:15:58,324 --> 00:16:01,623 Twelve bearers run the length of 22 coaches 173 00:16:01,760 --> 00:16:04,729 waiting on as many as 2,000 people 174 00:16:04,863 --> 00:16:09,527 They serve up to 400 hot railway meals twice a day 175 00:16:10,636 --> 00:16:11,728 In the pantry car 176 00:16:11,870 --> 00:16:16,170 cooks prepare food to suit the religious mandates of an Indian train 177 00:16:16,308 --> 00:16:18,401 nonveg or vegetarian 178 00:16:18,544 --> 00:16:21,536 for Muslims, Hindus, Christians 179 00:16:21,680 --> 00:16:26,014 The hardest job may be in trying to satisfy the tastes of so many 180 00:16:26,151 --> 00:16:30,349 And tastes do change from north to south 181 00:16:30,756 --> 00:16:32,087 The food is 182 00:16:32,224 --> 00:16:35,057 for a man it is very sufficient 183 00:16:35,194 --> 00:16:37,424 It is comfortable 184 00:16:37,563 --> 00:16:40,293 yes exactly it is more than sufficient for one's capacity 185 00:16:40,432 --> 00:16:47,304 It is given to us because here you have rice and then dal 186 00:16:47,439 --> 00:16:49,873 We call it the grains and then vegetables 187 00:16:50,009 --> 00:16:54,309 Also, available then it is a full meal for us 188 00:17:13,298 --> 00:17:15,960 If there is a spirit of the railway 189 00:17:16,101 --> 00:17:18,797 it is found in the thousands of small stations 190 00:17:18,937 --> 00:17:23,465 which have become part of the fabric of Indian life 191 00:17:23,609 --> 00:17:27,101 They are centers where everyone gathers 192 00:17:27,246 --> 00:17:33,310 And those who can't afford to travel will come just to watch the trains 193 00:17:40,259 --> 00:17:46,357 The most impressive arrivals have always been the broad gauge steam locomotive 194 00:17:46,498 --> 00:17:50,025 lovingly called the "black Beauties" 195 00:17:51,270 --> 00:17:53,602 They ride on the widest rails 196 00:17:53,739 --> 00:17:57,470 and their wheels stand taller than a man 197 00:17:59,912 --> 00:18:02,881 But their presence is now becoming rare 198 00:18:03,015 --> 00:18:07,384 and those who grew up with them will miss them the most 199 00:18:09,088 --> 00:18:11,488 Black is beautiful 200 00:18:11,623 --> 00:18:15,753 Our steam locos are our black beauties 201 00:18:15,894 --> 00:18:20,228 We feel with the phasing out of steam locos 202 00:18:20,365 --> 00:18:23,528 as if we are doing away with one of our 203 00:18:23,669 --> 00:18:27,867 kit and kin with whom we have blood relations 204 00:18:41,920 --> 00:18:44,445 All throughout Eastern Railway 205 00:18:44,590 --> 00:18:50,426 loco sheds are busy preparing their engines for a Black Beauty Contest 206 00:18:51,063 --> 00:18:54,396 It is a competition like no other 207 00:18:54,533 --> 00:18:56,865 Only the best engines are entered 208 00:18:57,002 --> 00:19:02,497 and to win the Black Beauty is the highest honor a shed could have 209 00:19:06,945 --> 00:19:11,177 Dhanbad, Rampur Hat, Sahibganj 210 00:19:11,316 --> 00:19:17,880 Asansol, Jha Jha... five sheds hurry to add the finishing touches 211 00:19:18,023 --> 00:19:24,019 transforming these workhorses into the beauties that they really are 212 00:19:35,874 --> 00:19:41,369 This possibly should be the very last Black Beauty Contest of Indian Railways 213 00:19:41,513 --> 00:19:45,040 We mean to bring to you the effect of the steam locos 214 00:19:45,184 --> 00:19:46,879 when they were is their heydays 215 00:19:47,019 --> 00:19:49,852 To show how they looked How they worked 216 00:19:49,988 --> 00:19:53,082 And for just one more time perhaps lived 217 00:19:53,225 --> 00:19:55,591 and outlived the glory of those days 218 00:19:55,727 --> 00:19:59,857 when the steam locos bore the burnt of Indian Railways 219 00:20:30,996 --> 00:20:35,592 The reason behind a Black Beauty Contest remains very much valid today 220 00:20:35,734 --> 00:20:38,066 because perhaps this is the last time 221 00:20:38,203 --> 00:20:43,732 that we are going to be able to have such a contest anywhere on the Indian Railways 222 00:20:43,875 --> 00:20:46,503 perhaps in the rest of the world like China and other 223 00:20:46,645 --> 00:20:48,044 steam will continue 224 00:20:48,180 --> 00:20:49,511 But on Indian Railways 225 00:20:49,648 --> 00:20:56,178 the pressures of economics have forced us to give up the lovable old monster of steam 226 00:20:56,321 --> 00:20:59,381 With its lovable sound 227 00:20:59,524 --> 00:21:01,958 and unique visual pleasure 228 00:21:02,094 --> 00:21:03,493 which children loved 229 00:21:03,629 --> 00:21:08,589 and therefore aspired to become locomotive drivers when they grew up 230 00:21:08,734 --> 00:21:10,998 It helps people to remember that 231 00:21:11,136 --> 00:21:14,902 the steam has served a glorious era from the old days 232 00:21:15,040 --> 00:21:17,565 if you look back into the past 233 00:21:44,536 --> 00:21:46,163 There is intense competition 234 00:21:46,305 --> 00:21:49,604 amongst all those who have slaved on these locomotives 235 00:21:49,741 --> 00:21:51,538 these 10 competing locomotives 236 00:21:51,677 --> 00:21:54,237 and therefore each one wants to win the prize 237 00:21:54,379 --> 00:21:57,075 Therefore the judges are under intense scrutiny 238 00:21:57,215 --> 00:21:59,775 perhaps more than the judges are in real life 239 00:21:59,918 --> 00:22:01,112 And they have to 240 00:22:01,253 --> 00:22:03,448 therefore, make it as scientific as possible 241 00:22:03,588 --> 00:22:04,145 They have, therefore 242 00:22:04,289 --> 00:22:08,692 divided the system of grading into three distinct groups 243 00:22:08,827 --> 00:22:09,691 One is decoratio 244 00:22:09,828 --> 00:22:11,625 for which they give 25 percent marks 245 00:22:11,763 --> 00:22:13,628 the functionality, which is 246 00:22:13,765 --> 00:22:16,962 we are giving as much as 50 percent marks 247 00:22:17,102 --> 00:22:22,062 and also the ceramic blanketing is being given 25 percent marks 248 00:22:22,207 --> 00:22:27,543 And I think that the judges will be totally fair and clear in their judgment 249 00:22:27,679 --> 00:22:30,113 and may the best loco win 250 00:22:30,816 --> 00:22:32,647 What is important when you see a 251 00:22:32,784 --> 00:22:34,775 when the whole thing should be uniformly red 252 00:22:34,920 --> 00:22:36,410 The moment you see a black spot 253 00:22:36,555 --> 00:22:38,113 that's the time there when there's a hole 254 00:22:38,256 --> 00:22:39,780 and then the firebox can burn 255 00:22:39,925 --> 00:22:40,949 So when you are seeing the fire 256 00:22:41,093 --> 00:22:42,993 you have to see that it looks uniformly red 257 00:22:43,128 --> 00:22:45,460 that there's no localized black spot 258 00:22:45,597 --> 00:22:48,794 Plus the thickness, the firebox should be uniform... 259 00:22:48,934 --> 00:22:50,367 Those are things we have to look for 260 00:22:50,502 --> 00:22:51,594 how he is maintaining the fire 261 00:22:51,737 --> 00:22:53,034 very important 262 00:22:56,975 --> 00:22:59,000 Everybody wants to win 263 00:22:59,077 --> 00:23:01,443 and none more than Mr. Arora 264 00:23:01,580 --> 00:23:07,143 a shed foreman who has worked in steam since he was 17 265 00:23:07,285 --> 00:23:09,617 Onboard Rampur Hat's engine 266 00:23:09,755 --> 00:23:12,656 he is never at a loss for words 267 00:23:16,428 --> 00:23:19,397 explaining that even with all the hard work 268 00:23:19,531 --> 00:23:22,500 they had just run out a time 269 00:23:25,871 --> 00:23:27,304 Like all of the engines 270 00:23:27,439 --> 00:23:31,170 the judges take into account how efficiently she runs 271 00:23:31,309 --> 00:23:32,970 They put her through the paces 272 00:23:33,111 --> 00:23:37,104 while Arora hangs on like a doting father 273 00:23:49,294 --> 00:23:51,956 Those bosses, my examiners 274 00:23:52,097 --> 00:23:56,090 they have been very much pleased with the work which you boys 275 00:23:56,234 --> 00:23:58,828 with my staff, with my driver 276 00:23:58,970 --> 00:24:00,665 and the other fellows you know 277 00:24:00,806 --> 00:24:01,397 all the whole 278 00:24:01,540 --> 00:24:05,374 Rampur Hat has done in decorating this locomotive 279 00:24:05,510 --> 00:24:10,413 in making it fit mechanically sound and they have checked all the points 280 00:24:10,549 --> 00:24:14,485 and I think we have got if not 10 percent 281 00:24:14,619 --> 00:24:15,950 then at least 90 percent 282 00:24:16,087 --> 00:24:18,954 Now we should leave the results to Almighty God you know 283 00:24:19,090 --> 00:24:21,024 Almighty God is there 284 00:24:24,129 --> 00:24:26,927 They parade in all their glory 285 00:24:27,065 --> 00:24:29,898 and anticipation runs high 286 00:24:30,936 --> 00:24:36,340 Now it's up to the judges to reveal the last Black Beauty winner 287 00:24:58,330 --> 00:25:03,267 Nandini will claim the price 288 00:25:04,269 --> 00:25:09,104 For Nandini and her crew this is an occasion to remember 289 00:25:10,542 --> 00:25:11,736 But they know 290 00:25:11,877 --> 00:25:17,247 as they back her into the shed that their victory is bittersweet 291 00:25:17,649 --> 00:25:22,677 For despite the fact that the black beauties have proven themselves today 292 00:25:22,821 --> 00:25:25,654 another fate awaits them 293 00:26:12,270 --> 00:26:14,033 In northeast India 294 00:26:14,172 --> 00:26:18,438 a little toy train climbs the foothills of the Himalaya 295 00:26:18,577 --> 00:26:21,603 the tallest mountains in the world 296 00:26:26,885 --> 00:26:28,079 Every morning 297 00:26:28,219 --> 00:26:30,813 Buddhist monks look towards the East 298 00:26:30,956 --> 00:26:35,859 welcoming the sun to the remote mountain town of Darjiling 299 00:27:09,961 --> 00:27:13,590 Darjiling has always been a frontier town 300 00:27:13,732 --> 00:27:17,532 where an oriental look enters the faces of India 301 00:27:18,670 --> 00:27:21,935 But is also tells of another heritage 302 00:27:22,907 --> 00:27:26,001 The British loved the climate so much 303 00:27:26,144 --> 00:27:31,047 they mad it a hill station to escape the heat of the plains below 304 00:27:31,516 --> 00:27:36,613 And the sounds of the train they brought echo up from the valleys 305 00:27:42,494 --> 00:27:44,428 For the people of the mountain 306 00:27:44,562 --> 00:27:48,658 the train has always been a part of their lives 307 00:27:48,800 --> 00:27:50,927 In the days of the British raj 308 00:27:51,069 --> 00:27:56,405 it carried the famous Darjiling tea down from the plantations 309 00:27:59,911 --> 00:28:06,146 Eighteen little locomotives run back and forth on the Darjeeling-Himalayan line 310 00:28:06,284 --> 00:28:09,412 The youngest is 70-years-old 311 00:28:09,554 --> 00:28:12,853 and the oldest is a hundred-and-five 312 00:28:22,300 --> 00:28:27,237 Everyday, several trains climb from the plain of the Ganges 313 00:28:27,372 --> 00:28:29,135 in about the same amount of time 314 00:28:29,274 --> 00:28:35,179 it took Mark Twain when he came to Darjiling in 1896 315 00:28:41,152 --> 00:28:45,851 The beginning of every trip is a ritual for the six-man crew 316 00:28:45,990 --> 00:28:51,087 Each engine is an antique heirloom that's been entrusted to their care 317 00:28:51,229 --> 00:28:54,630 And they look after them like living breathing creatures 318 00:28:54,766 --> 00:28:58,293 feeding and watering them 319 00:28:58,436 --> 00:28:59,733 The fireman knows that 320 00:28:59,871 --> 00:29:06,606 only a good head of steam can carry the train up to 7,407 feet 321 00:29:06,745 --> 00:29:10,806 to reach the highest station in all of Asia 322 00:29:23,128 --> 00:29:25,153 With two men riding on front 323 00:29:25,296 --> 00:29:28,231 ready to throw sand on the rails for traction 324 00:29:28,366 --> 00:29:30,834 and a coal breaker riding on top 325 00:29:30,969 --> 00:29:33,904 the train finally sets out 326 00:29:36,674 --> 00:29:40,576 Each engine has its own distinct personality 327 00:29:40,712 --> 00:29:46,241 And no one understands his better than the driver, Mr. Gurung 328 00:29:47,218 --> 00:29:48,913 Like his father 329 00:29:49,053 --> 00:29:52,853 he was assigned this same loco for life 330 00:29:53,525 --> 00:29:59,157 And everyone along the way knows its him by the sound of his whistle 331 00:30:22,520 --> 00:30:24,010 For Sherab Tenduf 332 00:30:24,155 --> 00:30:27,090 one of many who have fought for its preservation 333 00:30:27,225 --> 00:30:31,423 it's a reminder that some things do stay the same 334 00:30:31,563 --> 00:30:35,090 And not to have it would be a great loss 335 00:30:39,137 --> 00:30:39,899 When I was young 336 00:30:40,038 --> 00:30:42,734 people really didn't travel that very much 337 00:30:42,874 --> 00:30:44,774 The airplane hadn't arrived 338 00:30:44,909 --> 00:30:49,608 And the train was an important image for all of us 339 00:30:49,747 --> 00:30:52,545 An escape to the outer world 340 00:30:52,684 --> 00:30:58,714 A chance to see something over the mountains 341 00:30:58,857 --> 00:31:04,124 You had this train which represented to us an opportunity for adventure 342 00:31:04,262 --> 00:31:06,730 We used to jump on and off the train 343 00:31:06,865 --> 00:31:08,924 Tickets weren't that important 344 00:31:09,067 --> 00:31:10,329 There was the chugging 345 00:31:10,468 --> 00:31:13,767 the sound of the movement of the train 346 00:31:13,905 --> 00:31:15,634 The energy of this train 347 00:31:15,773 --> 00:31:18,241 it was like a little Tibetan terrier 348 00:31:41,566 --> 00:31:48,768 The obstacles that the British overcame in 1881 are still impressive even now 349 00:31:48,907 --> 00:31:51,137 On the foothills of the himalaya 350 00:31:51,276 --> 00:31:53,437 they had little room to maneuver 351 00:31:53,578 --> 00:31:57,446 and only by ingenious loops and switchbacks 352 00:31:57,582 --> 00:32:03,452 and the narrowest of tracks could the little "toy train" reach the top 353 00:32:27,812 --> 00:32:28,870 If the train does not run 354 00:32:29,013 --> 00:32:31,675 we do feel that there is something absent 355 00:32:31,816 --> 00:32:35,013 and we do feel it very strongly 356 00:32:35,153 --> 00:32:36,313 But as long as it is there 357 00:32:36,454 --> 00:32:38,012 yes it's a part of life 358 00:32:38,156 --> 00:32:40,818 And everyday if we don't see it 359 00:32:40,959 --> 00:32:43,951 we see that something is definitely is missing 360 00:33:09,921 --> 00:33:12,890 India is a country of villages 361 00:33:14,726 --> 00:33:19,959 More than 70 percent of its people live out their lives in a day-to-day existence 362 00:33:20,098 --> 00:33:22,259 where there is no hurry 363 00:33:22,967 --> 00:33:27,097 And only the changing seasons mark the passage of time 364 00:33:35,013 --> 00:33:38,471 This is where the railway is a lifeline 365 00:33:38,616 --> 00:33:43,178 bringing these remote areas in touch with the rest of the world. 366 00:33:45,289 --> 00:33:46,620 In south India 367 00:33:46,758 --> 00:33:50,626 Palur is one of thousands of small way stations 368 00:33:50,762 --> 00:33:55,028 which haven't changed much since British colonial times 369 00:34:00,872 --> 00:34:04,638 It is a single line track off the main route to Madrasm 370 00:34:04,776 --> 00:34:08,177 and only four trains a day stop here 371 00:34:12,216 --> 00:34:15,845 Mr. Govindarajan is the stationmaster 372 00:34:15,987 --> 00:34:18,478 He took a demotion from a bigger station 373 00:34:18,623 --> 00:34:21,786 choosing Palur to be near his sick wife 374 00:34:21,926 --> 00:34:26,260 and to live out his days in the peaceful quiet of the country 375 00:34:30,601 --> 00:34:33,832 He shares his responsibilities with amakshi 376 00:34:33,971 --> 00:34:38,601 a railway widow who is officially the sweeper-porter 377 00:34:39,977 --> 00:34:44,209 Between the two of them they run the entire station 378 00:34:58,896 --> 00:35:01,421 "Palur" means "milk village" 379 00:35:01,566 --> 00:35:03,124 and for the last hundred years 380 00:35:03,267 --> 00:35:05,997 the villagers have relied on the milk train 381 00:35:06,137 --> 00:35:09,436 to carry their cans to the city markets 382 00:35:10,541 --> 00:35:12,304 But before the train arrives 383 00:35:12,443 --> 00:35:15,970 Govindarajan must coordinate with other stations 384 00:35:16,114 --> 00:35:20,574 to make sure that his line is clear for the coming train 385 00:35:30,328 --> 00:35:32,228 It is a time-honored system 386 00:35:32,363 --> 00:35:35,161 in place since the days of the British 387 00:35:35,299 --> 00:35:38,530 a ball token must be carried by the driver 388 00:35:38,669 --> 00:35:42,605 giving him the right-of-way on a single-line track 389 00:35:43,941 --> 00:35:45,067 At every station 390 00:35:45,209 --> 00:35:48,406 he must pass the token and pick up another 391 00:35:48,546 --> 00:35:53,006 only then will he have permission to continue on his way 392 00:35:57,889 --> 00:35:59,789 I am asking line clear 393 00:36:16,807 --> 00:36:18,536 The line is officially open 394 00:36:18,676 --> 00:36:20,974 and amakshi can change the signals 395 00:36:21,112 --> 00:36:22,909 that will indicate to the driver 396 00:36:23,047 --> 00:36:25,675 that the track ahead is safe 397 00:36:42,500 --> 00:36:45,094 She will pass the ball on to the driver 398 00:36:45,236 --> 00:36:47,966 and prepares the cane pouch 399 00:36:48,339 --> 00:36:52,435 She is one of the few women working directly with the trains 400 00:36:52,577 --> 00:36:56,206 but gained her job after a great loss 401 00:36:56,347 --> 00:36:59,783 Her husband had been a fireman on a steam engine 402 00:36:59,917 --> 00:37:04,115 and committed suicide when he didn't make driver 403 00:37:04,622 --> 00:37:08,285 It is the railway's custom to give a position to the widow 404 00:37:08,426 --> 00:37:11,918 And amakshi will have a job for life 405 00:37:20,104 --> 00:37:21,765 As the train comes in 406 00:37:21,906 --> 00:37:24,397 the ball token is handed over 407 00:37:24,542 --> 00:37:28,535 Now the driver can move safely into the next section 408 00:37:59,777 --> 00:38:05,147 Mr. Govindarajan has dedicated 33 years of his life to the Railway 409 00:38:05,283 --> 00:38:10,949 and understands better than anyone how much these trains mean to rural India 410 00:38:12,523 --> 00:38:14,457 But changes are coming 411 00:38:14,592 --> 00:38:18,858 and he has received word that with his retirement his post 412 00:38:18,996 --> 00:38:20,293 will not be filled 413 00:38:20,431 --> 00:38:23,559 and Palur station will be closed 414 00:38:25,002 --> 00:38:28,199 They tell him that with only a few trains a day 415 00:38:28,339 --> 00:38:30,864 there just isn't enough profit 416 00:38:31,008 --> 00:38:34,000 Soon the trains won't be stopping here 417 00:38:34,145 --> 00:38:37,137 and people will have to take the roads 418 00:38:37,915 --> 00:38:41,749 He will be the last station master of Palur 419 00:39:02,106 --> 00:39:05,337 On Southern Railway, south of Madras 420 00:39:05,476 --> 00:39:09,537 the Pondicherry Special makes her last journey. 421 00:39:29,066 --> 00:39:33,332 Nothing evokes the romance of the railway like a steam engine 422 00:39:33,471 --> 00:39:37,771 Her arrival into Pondicherry station is a grand event 423 00:39:37,908 --> 00:39:42,868 and she will bring the platform to life for one last time 424 00:39:50,554 --> 00:39:53,614 This is one of the few holdouts of steam 425 00:39:53,758 --> 00:39:57,387 The locomotives were phased out of the big cities years ago 426 00:39:57,528 --> 00:40:01,521 and now even small stations are seeing them vanish 427 00:40:06,170 --> 00:40:08,138 But perhaps the greatest loss 428 00:40:08,272 --> 00:40:12,402 will be felt by those who have steam in their soul 429 00:40:12,843 --> 00:40:16,745 And Dhandapani is one who'll feel it the most 430 00:40:17,014 --> 00:40:19,482 A third-generation railwayman 431 00:40:19,617 --> 00:40:21,312 he became what his father 432 00:40:21,452 --> 00:40:22,544 a gatekeeper 433 00:40:22,686 --> 00:40:26,178 always hoped he would be a driver 434 00:40:26,323 --> 00:40:28,484 the pride of the line 435 00:40:28,859 --> 00:40:35,492 Now he's been given the honor of takin the Pondicherry Special on her final run 436 00:41:03,427 --> 00:41:06,863 His engine may be old and worn down by age 437 00:41:06,997 --> 00:41:13,630 but Dhandapani knows that what he is doing is something noble and historic 438 00:41:13,771 --> 00:41:17,229 And he's always been proud of his duty 439 00:41:51,575 --> 00:41:57,741 In India, the relationship between railwaymen has always been like family 440 00:41:59,049 --> 00:42:03,486 The firemen, guards, cabinmasters and gatekeepers 441 00:42:03,621 --> 00:42:08,058 all have developed a deep bond through the years 442 00:42:16,166 --> 00:42:19,192 Stationmasters on the single line tracks 443 00:42:19,336 --> 00:42:25,502 and the drivers of steam know that a time is coming to an end 444 00:42:37,922 --> 00:42:43,656 Now, the trading of the cane pouch marks the changing of the guard 445 00:43:25,402 --> 00:43:30,339 Both Govindarajan and Dhandapani have since been retired 446 00:43:30,474 --> 00:43:35,002 the Pondicherry Special has been condemned 447 00:43:35,145 --> 00:43:40,276 And little Palur station is now closed forever 448 00:43:54,164 --> 00:43:59,466 Varanasi, Madurai, Barddhaman 449 00:43:59,603 --> 00:44:02,936 these are some of the sheds where generations of workers 450 00:44:03,073 --> 00:44:08,568 were born to serve the locomotive with a craft held sacred 451 00:44:12,316 --> 00:44:14,216 And where it was always believed that 452 00:44:14,351 --> 00:44:19,186 a father's knowledge would one day be handed down to his son 453 00:44:27,765 --> 00:44:31,701 We'll be closing down this steam loco shed in a couple of months 454 00:44:31,835 --> 00:44:35,396 when the last of these Black Beauties would have move out 455 00:44:35,539 --> 00:44:41,842 This shed had something like 71 locomotives a few years back 456 00:44:41,979 --> 00:44:43,674 What we feel sad about the whole thing 457 00:44:43,814 --> 00:44:50,014 is that something which fascinated every railway traveler over many 458 00:44:50,154 --> 00:44:53,282 many years is dying out 459 00:45:00,197 --> 00:45:02,028 And what I feel personally sad about 460 00:45:02,166 --> 00:45:08,298 is that with the locomotives is dying out a breed of men 461 00:45:08,439 --> 00:45:09,872 who had nerves of steel 462 00:45:10,007 --> 00:45:11,235 they were men of muscle 463 00:45:11,375 --> 00:45:13,070 understood metal 464 00:45:13,210 --> 00:45:15,872 what it was all about 465 00:45:22,920 --> 00:45:26,447 What we get today in lieu is the diesels 466 00:45:26,590 --> 00:45:29,753 the electrics, which have really no muscle in them 467 00:45:29,893 --> 00:45:31,190 They're all technology 468 00:45:31,328 --> 00:45:33,523 There's no spirit behind them 469 00:45:34,398 --> 00:45:35,888 To us as old railway men 470 00:45:36,033 --> 00:45:40,402 they are really not comparables 471 00:45:42,439 --> 00:45:47,502 This shed where the epitaph is now being written 472 00:45:47,644 --> 00:45:51,171 will see a gloomy picture in a few months from now 473 00:45:51,315 --> 00:45:56,514 And we'll lose ever so slightly a part of our past 474 00:45:56,653 --> 00:45:58,587 something on which the railways all over the world 475 00:45:58,722 --> 00:46:02,055 have survived for the last hundred plus years 476 00:46:05,362 --> 00:46:12,291 With that a lot of our soul will be gone 477 00:46:27,518 --> 00:46:28,382 Everyday 478 00:46:28,519 --> 00:46:32,956 more and more black beauties are being pulled from the working lines 479 00:46:33,824 --> 00:46:37,260 The iron beasts are now easy prey to scavengers 480 00:46:37,394 --> 00:46:40,727 who will take even their last bits of precious coal 481 00:46:42,499 --> 00:46:46,663 The once busy sheds are becoming graveyards 482 00:46:52,309 --> 00:46:54,800 For loco foreman Mr. Arora 483 00:46:54,945 --> 00:46:59,041 returning is like visiting old friends 484 00:46:59,983 --> 00:47:02,952 You see this is a tragic part on my life 485 00:47:03,086 --> 00:47:06,249 I was born and brought up with this steam locomotives 486 00:47:06,390 --> 00:47:09,359 Now I feel as if I am left all alone 487 00:47:09,493 --> 00:47:12,724 and I am standing like a helpless man can do 488 00:47:12,863 --> 00:47:17,823 but this is the demand from my nation 489 00:47:24,908 --> 00:47:30,312 I feel as if a most loving member of my family 490 00:47:30,447 --> 00:47:35,646 is being cut into pieces in my presence 491 00:47:35,786 --> 00:47:38,880 an old man, who is looking after the children 492 00:47:39,022 --> 00:47:40,489 and he is standing 493 00:47:40,624 --> 00:47:46,961 and he cannot do anything for his children at this dying stage 494 00:47:47,097 --> 00:47:48,121 Feel so bad 495 00:47:48,265 --> 00:47:50,529 Really I feel like weeping 496 00:47:50,667 --> 00:47:53,636 I become helpless creature but 497 00:47:53,770 --> 00:47:57,035 as I've told you, a day one has to die 498 00:47:57,174 --> 00:48:02,305 Similarly, they have also to vanish one day or the other 499 00:48:17,261 --> 00:48:19,388 All across India 500 00:48:19,529 --> 00:48:23,021 steam sheds have turned into auction houses 501 00:48:23,166 --> 00:48:26,795 The locomotives await the highest hidder 502 00:48:42,185 --> 00:48:43,618 They are the businessmen 503 00:48:43,754 --> 00:48:48,384 who have waited for the sheds to close before making their move 504 00:48:49,326 --> 00:48:51,123 They buy the engines which are 505 00:48:51,261 --> 00:48:55,698 to them, worth only their weight in scrap metal 506 00:49:40,344 --> 00:49:45,304 Most of these men of steam will choose to stay with the railway 507 00:49:46,450 --> 00:49:48,816 Some will have to be retrained 508 00:49:48,952 --> 00:49:53,252 and others may have to relocate far from their homes 509 00:49:53,824 --> 00:49:58,227 But for all a way of life is over 510 00:50:33,363 --> 00:50:36,423 There will be one survivor of steam 511 00:50:36,566 --> 00:50:40,900 and by government ruling it will remain 512 00:50:46,376 --> 00:50:49,937 It is the Darjeeling-Haimalayan toy train 513 00:50:50,080 --> 00:50:53,447 the oldest mountain railway in India 514 00:51:00,157 --> 00:51:02,887 She is the symbol of the railway 515 00:51:03,026 --> 00:51:06,291 and evokes the emotional and spiritual ties 516 00:51:06,430 --> 00:51:09,490 which the country has for its trains 517 00:51:11,768 --> 00:51:14,760 The men who run her stand for the many 518 00:51:14,905 --> 00:51:19,035 who have devoted themselves to keeping the lifeline going 519 00:51:27,317 --> 00:51:31,083 And for all those whose lives it touches 520 00:51:31,221 --> 00:51:37,592 this will always be the great Indian railway