HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Consisting of a New Voyage Round the World, a Supplement to the Voyage Round the World, Two Voyages to Gunpeachy, a Discourse of Winds, a Voyage to New Holland, and a Vindication, in answer to the Chimerical Relation of William Funnell BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER EDITED BY JOHN MASEFIELD IN TW^O VOLUMES II LONDON F. GRANT RICHARDS 7 CARLTON STREET 1906 Printed bf Ballanttne, Hanson 6* Ca At the Ballantyiie Presi. Edinburgh CONTENTS OF VOL. II PART I Su^Ument %f the Vrfage rmmi the WerU^ cMtinued fr§m V§L /. rAGS IV. Of thb GoTumMiMT of ToMQum, Kings, Souxtits, and Mandarins .••••••• i V. Voyage to Tcnan. Jou&net by Land to Cachao, and OccuiJLBNCis 19 VI. His RrruftN feom Tonquin, with some Paeticulars of Camiooia and Bsncouu, and Aeeital at Malacca and achin • • 35 VII. ACWN DBSCRIBtD; ITS NaTURAL AND PoUTICAL StaTB» Customs, Teaob, Citil Wars, etc. ... 49 VIII. The Author's Voyage to Malacca; Malacca described 75 IX. Return to Achin ; Voyage to Fort St. George, and thence to Bencouu: Bencoxh.! described . 91 PART II The Campeachy Voyagei I. First Journey to Campeachy, and Return. Jucatan, Alcranes, and Island of Pines described II. Second Voyage to Campeachy. The East Coast described its Vegetables, Weather, Animals, etc. III. Logwood-Cutting, Beef-hunting, and Occurrences IV. The Wist Coast Rivers. The Mountain Cow, Indians, etc V. The Rivers further West, the Products of Campeachy Return to England ..... 107 >43 178 198 212 CONTENTS OF VOL. II PART m A Discourse of Windsy Storms^ Seasons^ TideSj and Currents in the Torrid Zone CHAP. rAGB I. Of the T&ue or General Trade Wind at Sea, Crossing THE L1NE9 ETC 229 II. Of the Coasting and Constant Trade Winds . •239 III. Of the Shifting Trade Winds and Monsoons . . 243 IV. Of Sea and Land Breezes 251 V. Of Peculiar Breezes and Winds of Particular Effects, SUMMASENTA WiNDS, CaRTAGENA BrEEZES, PoPOGAIOS, Terenos, and Harmatans ..... 265 VI. Of Storms, Norths, Souths, Hurricanes, Tuffoons, Stormy Monsoons, and Elephantas . . . 279 VII. Of the Seasons of the Year, Weather, Rains, and Tornadoes 294 VIII. Of Tides and Currents. Natal described . . . 305 PART IV A Voyage to New Holland I. Departure from England. The Canary Isles. Teneriffe, Mayo, and St. Jago described . . . '349 II. Course and Winds in Crossing the Line. Bahia, the City and Country described . . . . '373 III. Winds, Sea-reckonings and Variations. Arrival in New Holland. Description of the Country. An Ac- count OF Plants 401 PART V I. A Continuation of a Voyage to New Holland . • 45' II. Letters and Papers Relating to the Voyage of the ««St. George" 575 III. Captain Dampier's Vindication 579 IV Captain Dam pier's Vindication Answered . . • 5^5 V. Courts- Martial 594 Index 607 vi LIST OF MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS A Map of the SnLim of Malacca . T^/mcefqge 48 A Map of thi Bay op Campeacht ....,,„ 107 A Visw OF THt General and Coasting Teadb-winds IN THE Atlantic and Indian Oceans • • n tt »8 A View of the General and Coasting Trade-winds IN the Great South Ocean • »» »» >43 Captain Dampier's New Voyage to New Holland, ETC, IN 1699, ETC. I. t» 338 Some curious Birds »» tt 400 Some curious Birds »» »9 407 Fishes taken near New Holland, etc. • >» >» 426 Five Tables of Plants . . . . | »> >f 448 Two Draughts, showing strange Fishes, etc. ) Fishes taken near New Guinea ....„„ 475 A Fish, a strange Bat, a Bird ....„„ 500 Stiance Fowls of New Guinea • » t* S'S Curious Fishes . | The Mountain Cow ) • • Vll VOYAGES AND DESCRIPTIONS CHAP. IV Of tht Gtvtrnm/nt ef Temfui'ii. The twt Kingt Boua an J Cheua ; iht RfVtll tf thr Cxhinthiafse, and Original af the pment Cemtitu- lim al Ttn^tun. Of the Boua"! Confinement, and the Choua'i »r rv&ng King'/ Prrun and Gtventmrnl i and the Treature^ Elrfiu»ti find Artillery. Thtir manner of making Gun-fmvdtr. Of th* StUitrt, thtir Arms, Emphyment, &c. Of the Naval L f«Y/, their fint Gilliei and Management (f them. The IVatch H tf^ in their T»Wni, tMeir Jmtiee and punishing of Deblers, and r Crinunalx if aU larti. Of the Eunuch Mandarins : Their Pnmttian and />/f/MfiViVnt. Of their iwearing upon a draught af Hens BJotd : and the Trial iy Utter lyaleri in Guinea. Of tk/ AJandarims Enlrrtainmenti, The Chtp-stieh used at Meals t amd tkttr ksadtie%\ t» Strangers, THIS Kingdom is an ahaoluie Monarchy, but of , such a kind as is not in the World again ; for ^ it has two Kings, and each supreme in his particular way : The one is called Boua, the other Choua; which last Name I have been told signifies MMiter. The Boua and his Ancestors were the sole Monarch* of Tonquin ; tho* I know not whether as independent Sovereigns, or as Tributaries to China, of which they have been thought to have been a Frontier Province, if not a Colony : for there is a great Affinity ttetwccn them in their Language, Religion, and Customs. rbeie two Kings they have at present, are not any way rrUted in their Descent or E' ami lies : nor could I learn ri'jw long their Government has continued in the present Knrm ; but it appears to have been for some Successions. The occasion is variously reported ; but some give this account of it VOL. tl. A CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES ^. The Bofua*s or anticitt King's of Tooqoiii, were formerly 6S8 Masters of Cochinchina, 2nd kept that Nation in subjec- tion by an Army of Tooquincsc constantly kept there, under a General or Deputy, who ruled them. When Cochinchina threw off the Tonquinese Toak, the King had two great Generals^ one in Cochinduna, and another in Tonquin it self. These two Genends differing, he who was in Cochinduna revolted from his Sovereign of Tonquin, and by his Power over the Army there, made himself King <^ Cochinchina : since which these two Nations have always been at Wars; yet each Nation of late is rather on the defensive part than on the offen^ve. But when the General who commanded in Cochinchina had been thus successful in his Revolt from under the Boua, the Tonquinese General took the Courage to do so too; and having gained the Affections of his Army, deprived the King his Master of all the Regal Power, and kept it with all the Revenues of the Crown in his own Hands : yet leaving the other the Title of King ; probably, because of the great Zeal the People had for that Family. And thus the Kingdom came wholly into the Power of this Tonquinese Grcneral, and his Heirs, who carry the Title of Choua ; the Boua*s of the Ancient Family having only the shadow of that Authority they were formerly Masters of. The Boua lives the Life of a Idnd of a Prisoner of State, within the old Palace, with his Women and Children ; and diverts himself in Boats among his Fish-ponds within the Palace Walls, but never stirs without those Bounds. He is held in great Veneration by all the Tonquinese, and seemingly by the Choua also ; who never offers any violence to him, but treats him with all imagin- able respect. The People say they have no King but Boua; and seem to have sad Apprehensions of the Loss they should have, if he should dye without an Heir : and whenever the Choua comes into his presence, which is 2 or 3 times in the Year, he useth abundance of Com- pliments to him, and tells him, that his very Life is at his Service, and that he governs and rules wholly to do him a Kindness: and always gives him the upper Hand. 2 ana m m DESPOTIC POWER OF THE CHO0A also when tny Ambassadors arc sent trom the Empcrour China, the)' will deliver their Message to none but the ' Boua, and have ihcir Audience of him. Yet after all this Pageantry, the Boua has only a few Servants to attend him, none of the Mandarins make their Court to him, nor U he allowed any Guards : All the Magistracy and Soldiery, Treasure, and the ordering of all Matters of Peace or liWar, arc entirely at the Choua's disposal ; all Preferment from him, tnd the very Servants who attend the Boua, such only as the Choua places about him. Besides these Its, none are ever suffered to see the Boua, much less : So that I could learn nothing as to his Person. as to the Choua, I have been informed that he is an angry, ill-natured, leprous Person. He lives in the second Palace, where he has ten or twelve Wives; but what Children I know not. He governs with absolute Authority over the Sulnects, and with great Tyranny : for their Lives, Goods, and rCstatcs are at his Command. The Province of Tcnehoa is said to have belonged properly to his Ancestors, who were great Mandarins before the Usurpation. So that be now seems to have a particular value for it, and keeps his Treasure there, which by report, is very great. This Treasure is buried in great Cisterns full of Water, made purposely for that use : and to secure it, he keeps a great many Soldiers there ; and commits the charge, both of tbcm and the Treasure, to the Governour of the Province, who is one of his principal Kunuchs. The Choua has always a strong Guard of Soldiers about his Palace, and many lai^e Stables for his Horses and KIcphants. The Horses are about 13 or 14 H^nds high, and arc kept very fat : there are 2 or 300 of them. le Elephants are kept in long Stables by themselves, b having a peculiar Room or Partition, with a Keeper dreis and feed him. The number of the King's Elephants arc about 150 or 200. They arc watered and waahed every day in the River. Some of the Elephants are very gentle and governable, otbcn arc more indocil and unruly. When these rude ones arc to pass throtigh the Streets, though only to be CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. watered, the Rider or Dresser orders a Gong or Drum 1688 ^Q bg beaten before him, to warn People that an unruly Elephant is coming ; and they presently clear the Streets and give a passage for the Beast ; who will do Mischief to any that are m the way, and their Riders or Keepers cannot restrain him. Before the Choua*s Palace, there is a large Parade, or square place for the Soldiers to be drawn up. On one side there is a place for the Mandarins to sit, and see the Soldiers exercise, on the other side there is a Shed, wherein all the Cannon and heavy Guns are lodged. There be 50 or 60 Iron Guns from Falcon^ to Demy- Culverin,* 2 or 3 whole Culverin * or Demi-Cannon,* and some old Iron Mortars lying on Logs. The Guns are mounted on their Carriages, but the Carriages of these Guns are old and very ill made. There is one great Brass Gun, much bigger than the rest, supposed to be 8 or 9000 pound weight. It is of a taper bore;* of a foot diameter at the Mouth, but much smaller at the Britch. It is an ill-shaped thing, yet much esteemed by them, probably because it was cast here, and the biggest that ever they made. It was cast about 12 or 13 Years ago, and it being so heavy, they could not contrive to mount it, but were beholding to the English, to put it ^ The falcon was an M.L. iron gun of 2i-inch bore, and flung a 3 lb. ball to a distance of 1 500 yards when fired with a full charge (3 lbs. of powder) and elevated 10°. The gun weighed about 6 cwt., and measured about 7 feet in length. 2 The demi-culverin corresponded roughly to the 9-pounder of the Napoleonic wars. It was a 4-inch M.L. gun, throwing a ball of 9^ lbs. for about a mile and a half, at extreme range (200 yards point blank). It took a charge of 8 lbs., weighed about a ton and a half, and measured 1 1 feet in length. ^ The culverin was the forerunner of the Napoleonic i8-pounder. It was a $ or scinch M.L. gun with a ball of 17^ lbs. and a range of 2500 paces. It weighed rather more than 2 tons, and took a charge of 12 lbs. of powder. * The demi-cannon corresponded to the 32-pounder, the heavy gun with which Trafalgar was fought. The ball was 33^ lbs., the range about a mile, the charge 18 lbs., and the weight rather more than 2 tons. There were "intermediate*' guns between the falcon and the demi-culverin. The minion and saker have been described in a previous note. There was also the bastard culverin. ^ With a bore rather larger at the base or breech than at the muzzle, or, vice versd^ as in the present instance. :AK>NS and soldiery OF TONQHIN nto tbe Curiage ; when: it now stands more for a show ak. service. But though this is but an ordinary piece '*** of Workmin^ip, yet the Tonqulncsc understand how to run Mculs, and are very expert in tempering the Earth, wherewith they make their Mould. These are all the great Guns, that I saw or heard of in this Kingdom, neither are here any Forts, yet the King keeps always a great many Soldiers. *Tis said that he has always 70 or Soocxd constantly in pay- These are most Foot, they arc arm'd with Curtans or Swords, and Hand-Guns of 3 foot and an half or 4 foot in the Barrel. The Bore is about the bigness of our Horse Pistols, they arc all Match-locks,' and they arc very thick and heavy. The Soldiers do all make their own Powder. They have little Kngincs for mixing the Ingredients, and make as small a Quantity as they please. They know not how to com it, and therefore it is in unequal lumps, some as big as the top of a Man's Thumb, and some no bigger than a white Pea : neither have I seen any Powder well corn'd, that has been made in any of these Eastern Nations. The Soldiers have each a Cartage Box covered with Leather, after the manner of the West-Indian Rivateers; but instead of Paper Canagcs, these are filled with small hollow Canes, each containing a load nr charge of Powder ; which ibey empty out of the Cane into the Gun ; so that each Box has in it, as it were, so many Bandoleers. Their Anns arc kept very bright and clean : for which purpose every one of them has a hollow Bambo to lay over the Barrel of his Gun ; and to keep the Dust from it as it lict over the wrack in his House. When they march also in rainy Weather, they have another Bambu to cover their Guns. This is large enough to cover the whole Barrel, and very well lackered ; so that it is not only handsome, but also preserves the Gun dry. The Soldiers when they march arc led by an Officer, is Leader of the File ; and every File consists of ho Men : but as 1 have been informed by one who has * ritcd I17 a matcb, inawad of by p«rcuMion. 5 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. seen them march, they don't keep their Ranks in marching. 1688 j^j^^ Soldiers are most of them lusty strong well-made Men : for 'tis that chiefly recommends them to the King's Service. They must also have good Stomachs, for that is a greater recommendation than the former; neither can any Man be entertained as a Soldier, that has not a greater stroke than ordinary at eating : for by this they judge of his Strength and Constitution. For which Reason, when a Soldier comes to be listed, his Stomach is first proved with Rice, the common Subsistence of the ordinary People in this Kingdom : and according as he acquits himself in this first Tryal of his Manhood, so he is either discharged or entertained in the Service. 'Tis reported, that at these Tryals they commonly eat 8 or 9 Cups of Rice, each con- taining a pint, and they are ever afterwards esteemed and advanced, according to the first Day's Service : and the greatest caters are chiefly employed as Guards to the King, and commonly attend on his Person. The Province of Ngcan breeds the lustiest Men, and the best eaters : for that reason those of that Province are generally imployed as Soklicrs. After 30 Years Service a Soldier may petition to l>e disbanded ; and then the Village where he was born must send another Man to serve in his room. The Horsemen are but few, and armed with Bows, ami long Sjxiars or Lances, like the Moors and Turks. Both these and the Foot Soldiers are very dexterous in using their Weapons, and shoot very well either with Gun or Bow ; for they are often exercised by shooting at Marks. The King orders a shooting Match once a Year, and rewards the best Marks-man with a fine Coat, or about 1000 Cash, as 'tis called, which is a Summ about the value of a Dollar. The Mark is a white earthen Cup, placed against a Bank. The distance they stand to fire at it is about 80 Yards. He who breaks the first Cup has the finest Coat; for there are others also of less worth and finery for the rest, that have the good Fortune to break the other Cups, or Cash in lieu of them. This is all at the King's Charge, who incourages this exercise very much, as a means to make them good Marks-men; and they 6 NG GUNS FOR THE FIELD _ f prT>ve such. They will laid and fire the quickest aj« of ray People. They draw the Runnier tt one Moboo,' **® and pouring down the Powder lod Bullet, they nm all down at ODc Motion more. Then they withdraw the Rammer, and put it into its ^cc at 3 Motions cdor. All the 4 Motions arc performed very dexterously and quick : and when they shoot at a Mark, they level, and fire at fir»t Sight, )*« very successfully. Though the King r,f Tonquin has no Forts, yet he keeps always a great many Soldiers on the Frontier Towns of hit Kingdom ; especially on the S. W. part thereof, to check the Cochinchincse, his implacable Enemies: and though there seldom happens a pitch'd Battle between them, yet there are often Skirmishings, which keep the Soldiers on each adc upon their Guards : and sometime there are considerable Excursions made by one or other l^rty into the Enemies Territories, where they kill, spoil, and bring away what Booty they can find. The King also has alwaj^s about 30000 near his Person, and quarter 'd in or about Cachao, ready on all Occa^ons. The dry Season is the time for his Armies lo cake the Field, or go against an Enemy : for in these Countries there is no marching in the Wet Season. When he sends an Army by Land on any Expedition, the General, and other great Officers arc mounted on Elephants. These have neat little Ixardcd Houses or Castles fastned on their hacks, where the great Men sit in State, sccur'd from the Sun or Rain. They have 00 Field-piece* in their Armies, but instead thereof they carry on Mens Backs Guns that will carry a four ounce Shot. The Barrels of these Guns are about 6 or 7 foot long : but though one Man carries one of them on his Back, yet he cannot hold it out to fire, like small Guns, but rests it on its Carriage, which is another Maa't Burden, and they two manage it between them. * tht EaKluh (MBt to have "dnwn' iheir runinen in three motiani, *ifcari*DMd' than (or pivparcd to ram viih ihen^) in Knolher ihm, ami "nauHcd* iB Iran) four tii *rvcn mora. To withdraw and man itw _ ■amawT iIk Eojiinli ■nmkctcei needed elocn motion* ; ihe whole open- tiBB thai raqinnait rmr Uuui iwmly Mpanic movmients. 7 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The Carriage is only a round piece of Wood, about *^^ 4 Inches thick, and 6 or 7 foot long. One end of the Carriage is supported with two Legs, (x* a Fork of three Foot high, the other rests on the Ground. The Gun is placed on the top, where thcr^ is an Iron Socket for the Gun to rest in, and a Swivel to turn the Muzzel any way. From the Britch of the Gun there is a short stock for the Man who fires the Gun to traverse it^ withal, and to rest it against his Shoulder. The use of these Guns is to clear a Pass, or to fire over the Rivers, when the Enemy is so commodiously placed, that there is no other way to move him; and they are carried by these two Men almost with as much ease as Muskets. In these Land-Expeditions they carry but little Baggage, besides their necessary Arms, Ammunition, and Provender; so that if they are routed they lightly scamper away; and generally in these Countries the EMspute is soon over, for they will not long sustain a smart Onset. Besides the Soldiers on the Frontiers; and those who attend the King about Cachao, he has many others that keep Guards in several parts of his Kingdom, especially in the great Roads, and on the Rivers. These search all exported Goods, to see that no prohibited Goods are sent out of the Kingdom, especially Arms : and no prohibited Goods brought in. They also look after the Customs, and see that all Goods have paid, befcn-e they may pass further. All Travellers are also searched by them, and strictly examined ; and if any Persons are taken only on Suspicion, they are used very severely, till they can clear themselves : so that no disaffected or rebellious Person can stir ; without being presently known; and this renders the King very safe in his Government. The King's Naval-force consists only in a sort of flat- bottom Gallies, and these seemingly designed more for State than Service, except to transport Soldiers from one Place to another. These Vessels are 50, 60, or 70 foot long, and about i o or 12 foot broad in the waste ; and the ^ To turn it to the right or left in taking aim. 8 TONQUINESE SHIPPING AND ROWERS 1 ends near is many foot high out of the Water, cspecUIly ak. the hinder part or Stem : but the waste or middle of the '**' VcaecJ b not above 1 foot and an half from the Water, that being the place, by which all the Men go in and out, from tb c nc e towards each end, it is gently and very artificially rajsol to a considerable hctghth, so thai the whole Fabrick jppcar« very graceful and pleasant, as it moves on the "Vater. The Head or forepart is not altogether so high as : Stem, neither is there so much cost browed on it for Mmcnt : for though it wants neither carv'd-work or Ikinting, yet 'tis not comparable to that of the Stem, which ^ great variety of carving, and is curiously lackered and hided. The Place where the Captain sits in ts the Stem, and is neatly covered to keep off the Sun or the Rain, and it being higher than any other part of the Vessel, appears like a little Throne, especially that of the General's Galley. This b more magni6cent than the rest^ tho' all are built much of one form. From the Stem to the waste, it b lovcred over with a si'^ht covering, to shelter the Men and Arm> from the Rain in the wet Season, and the tfchiw Sun in the dry. Before the waste there are taccs for the Oan on each side, and a plain even [)eck the Rowers to sund by their Tackling. Each Galley TICS a small Brass Gun, cither Minion or Sakcr, which is intod afore, and looks out through a Port in the Bow. ley have a small Mast' and Matt Sail, and they are I with from i6 or so to 24 Oars. The Soldiers arc always the Men that row, and they are I naked, except that they have a narrow piece of black uh like a Sash about their Wastes, which is brought ween their Thighs, and tuckt again under their Waste. Kvery one stands upright behind his Oar, which lies in its Mch on the Gunnal, and he thrusts ur pushes it forward rith ■ gnat Strength ; and they plunge their Oars all at one instant into the Water, keeping exact Time with each other; and that they may the better du this, there is one : strikes on a small Gong, or a wooden Instrument. * "Thejt hAve nu Hatu," according to Bitran. 9 m CAPTAr3f D>3t?IZ3Lr VOYAGES All. -ytxrifft *7er7 strrike if -liic Gjt- Ttct :iic Rowers ail at '^**^ once ansspcr Trtn i inrr if i Jmilow mwr. iu ' iu ga: the Thrvsc and 2. ssnin in thc Dcdc -vini me F<>x. aod :mmedtaod^ sinner "rrrn- * Jas nrn rm W^het. Tins the fjr>n^ and t^ ELiwcn litsmatEiy MiixH i L^ scii irhrr, ■"-■^'■■g a ir>urui thar lesms 7^77 t^ieaamr jzxd ^vsriiks a:: rxose who These Bcaa inw jncur x fhcc xnii 2. half Water. Thev ar* ciut serTTczanie bi Btv^rsL ar ic 5ca near the Shoar, and rhar in Terv fair Wearier :dc. Tacr are best in die broad Kv*srs near rhe 5ea, wier^ rnrr aEtr take the Ad^rantage of the Tides a: heip them : tbr thoagh they row prstry swift when they ire light; yet when they ha^e fe, Sc, or icc Men on a Beards as sDmetimes they hare, ther are heavr and row si^jwlv a^ramst the Scream. ScrenhclcsA when there is occason diey must go against the Stream a great way, tho' they ^ ■ eilijcm rt with great labour. The Soldkrs in these Vessels are equipt with Bows, .Swc^s, and \jsknce%, 2nd when many of them are sent on any Expedition, they are divided into Squadrons. They are distinguished by their several Flags of different Colours ; as appeared by an Expedition they made up the River, against some fjf their Northern Neighbours, while we were tncrc. There were then about 60 of these Galleys sent out up the River; and they had from 16 to 40 Soldiers in each, all well armed. Their General was called Ungee Comci, who was a great Mandarin, and was the Person aptK/intcd by the King to inspect into our English TrafEck ; l)cjng made Director or Protector of the English Factory, who used to speak of him as a generous Man. There were two more great Officers under him, each in a Vessel by himself. These three had Flags of Distinction : the firHt was yellow, the second blue, the third red or green. They went away from Cachao towards the Mountains, but (lid not return while we were there : but since we came fn»ni thence, 1 have been informed that the Expedition pn»vM fruitless, and that the General Ungee Comei was Muich (lisgrACcd. 10 WATCH AND WARD KEPT BY SOLDIERS When the Galleys are not in Service, they are draped *». ashore, and placed in Houses built for that purpose; where '^^ tbey trc set upright on thdr bottoms, made very clean, and kept neat and dry. These Galley-Houses are 50 or 60 paces from the River side ; and when they bring the Galleys into them, there is a strong Rope brought round the stem of the Vessel, and both ends stretched along, one on each side : then 3 or 400 Men standing ready with the Rope in their Hands, wait for the signal ; which being given bv the beat of a Gong, they begin to draw with all their Strength ; and making a great shrieking noise, they run her up in a trice into her place. This also is their Soldiers worlc, who having thus housed all their Galleys, return to their Land-Service. Some of the Soldiers are employed also tn keeping ^^Vatch and Ward, for the Security of private Men, as welt ^^p in the King's Business : and the Tonquinese are observed ^^b keep goc3d order in the Night in all Towns and Villages : ^^^t more particularly in the great Cities, and especially at Cichao. There every Street is guarded with a strong Watch, as well to keep Silence, as to hinder any disorder. The H Watch-men are armed with Staves, and stand in the Street Hhr the Watch-Houses, 10 examine every one that passeth ^nr. There is also a Rope stretched cross the Street Breast ^Hvh, and no Man may pass this place rill he is examined, ^^blcSB be will venture to be soundly bang'd by the Watch. ^^vhese Men can handle their Weapons so well, that if they ^^csign Mischief, they will dcxirously break a Leg or Thigh- ■ bone, thai being the place which they cummunly strike at. H There is a pair of Slocks by every Watch-Housc, to secure V N^hi Ramblers in : but for a small piece of Money a Man may pass quiet enough, and far the most part only the poor are taken up. These Watch-men are Soldiers, but belong to the Govcrnour or some other Men of great Power, who will hear no Complaints against them, though never so justly nude: and therefore they often put Men in the Stocks at their pleasure, and in the Morning carry them before ■ Magistrate; who commonly 6nes the Prisoners to pay bat, and be It more or less, it falls part to the CAPTAIN DAMPIER-S VOYAGES AN. Magistrate. Neither dares asT Msm compfaun of Injustice '^^ upon such usage, in diis case espedalir; diough Us Oiuse be never so just: and therefore Brtimce is in this G>untnr as necessary for poor People, as in any port of the World.' But notwithstanding these Abases, dier have one Custom in the administring Justice that is pleasmg enough. F<X' if a difference or quarrel at any Time happens between two mean Men, and they are not to be reconciled without going before a Magistrate, he usually coosadering their Poverty, lays no heavy Mulct on the Offender, but enjcnns him this as his Penalty, that he shall treat the injured Person with a Jarr of Arack and a Fowl, or a small Porker, that so feasting together, they may both drown all Animosity in good Liquor, and renew their Friendship. But if it be a Controversy about a Ddit, they take a very different Method. For the Debtors are many times <M-der*d to be Prisoners in their Creditw^'s Houses, where they are beaten, or kept with a Log of Wood made fast to their Legs, to hinder them fix>m running away. These poor Prisoners eat nothing but Rice, and dnnk Water, and are tyrannically insulted over by their rigid Creditors, till the Debt is satisfied. Their Corporal Punishments upon Male- factors, and sometimes upon others are very severe. Some are loaden with Iron Chains fastened to their Legs, with Logs also like the Debtors but now mentioned. Others have their Necks inclosed between two great heavy Planks made like a Pillory, but moveable, for they carry it about with them where-ever they go, and even when they go to rest they are forced to lye down and sleep in it as they can. There is another sort of punishing Instrument not un- like this, called a Gongo.^ This also is made to wear about the Neck, but is shaped like a Ladder. The sides of it are 2 large Bamboes, of about lo or 12 foot long, with several such rounds or sticks as Ladders have to keep the sides asunder ; but much shorter : for the 2 side Bamboes are * The Cangue. 12 ■^ PUNISHMENT FOR CRIMINALS ^ B> farther asunder, than to admit ot' a narrow Room tor a<4.^ 'He Neck; and the 2 rounds in the middle are much at '*** ■.c same distance from each other, on each side the Neck, rming a little Square : through which the Man looks as : he were carrying a Ladder on his Shoulders, with his J ' icad through tJic rounds. If either of these Yokes were I - ' tv taken off in a short time, as in 6, 9, or 12 Hours, it I would be no great matter: but to wear one of them a I Month, 3, 3, or longer, as 1 have been informed ihey some- I timd do, Kerns to be a very severe Punishment, Yet 'tis I tome Comfort to some, that they have the Liberty to walk abroad where they will : but others are l)oth yv^ked and imprbon'd : and the Prisoners in publick Prisons arc used vncK than a Man would use a Dog, they being half starved, J and soundly beaten to boot. I They have a particular Punishment for such as are sus- 1 -cted to fire Houses, or who are thought to have occa- ned the Fire through their neglect. The Master of the House, where the Fire first breaks out, will hardly clear ftimscif from Suspicion, and the Severity of the Law, The Punishment in this Case is to sit in a Chair of 12 or 14 foot nigh, bare-headed 3 whole Days successively in the hot worthing Sun : this Chair is set, for his greater disgrace, J V-fore the place where his House stood. I Other smaller Crimes arc punished with Blows; which I ' J call Bambooing. The Criminal is laid flat on his Belly ■r, the Grmind, with his Breeches pluckt down over his I lams : in which Posture a lusty Fellow bangs his bare . Breech with a split Bambo, about 4 Fingers bnad, and 5 J I'iMit long. The number of his Blows arc more or less, I -•■■■'*in;» to the nature of the Crime, or the pleasure of 1 ..:;strate; yet Money will buy favour of the Execu- I > ho knows how to moderate his Strokes for a Fee I -_K....[i.ind. Otherwise his Blows usually fall so heavy, I •.fiat the f>oor Offender may be lamed a Month or two. I After a Man has suflfercd any of these Punishments, he can I never nbuin any publick Favour or Employment. ' They have no Courts of Judicature, but any single Magtttraie iwues out his Warrants for the apprehctxling »3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of Malefactors, and upon taking them immediately tries ^^^ them : and as the Sentence is final, and without appeal, so 'tis no sooner past, but *tis executed also without more ado. Their Punishment in capital Crimes is usually beheading. The Criminal is carried immediately from the Magistrate s House to his own : for there is no common place of Exe- cution, but the Malefactor suffers near his own House, or where the Fact was committed. There he is placed sitting on the Ground, with his Body upright, and his Legs stretched out : and the Executioner being provided with a large Curtane or Back-Sword, and striking a full Back-Blow on the Neck, at one stroke he severs the Head from the Body; the Head commonly tumbling down into the Owner's Lap, and the Trunk falling ^ckward on the Ground. Theft is not thought worthy of Death, but is punished with cutting ofF some Member, or part of a Member, according to the degree of the Offence. For sometimes only one Joint of a Finger is chopt off, for other Crimes a whole Finger, or more, and for some the whole Hand. The Magistrates and other great Men of this Kingdom are called Mandarins. Most of them in Office about the King are Eunuchs, and not only gelded, but also their Members cut off quite flat to their Bellies. These, as I have been informed, are all very learned Men after their way, especially in the Laws of the Country. They rise gradually by their Merit or Favour, from one Degree to another, as well they who are employed in Civil as in Military affairs : And scarce a Place of Trust or Profit goes beside them. No Man is permitted to walk familiarly about the King's Palace without the Leave of the Eunuch Mandarins; and for this Reason having such free Access to the King themselves, and excluding whom they will, they engross his Favour. This is taken so much to Heart by some, that through Envy and Discontent, they often pine away, as is commonly said, even to Death : And I heard of such an one, who was called Ungee Thuan Ding : Ungee seems a Title of Honour among them. He was a Man of great Learning in the Laws, extremely Politick, H 1 A5TRATING THRC AMBITION ^^b mighty high S[)iritcd. This Man sought all the a lacans imaginable to be preferred, but could not for want '* of being an Eunuch. He fretted to see his Inferiors raised : out plainly seeing that there was no rising without removing that Objection, he one Day in a Rage took up a sharp fCnife, ancf qualify *d himself effectually. He had a Wife and 6 or 8 Children, who were all in great Fear of his Life: but he was not at all dismayed, tho" in that Coodidun ; and the King advanced him. He was living when 1 was there, and was a great Mandarin. He had the care of the Armory and Artillery, being great Master of the King's Ordnance. There was another Mandarin also, one Ungee Hanc, who finding himself baffled fay the Eunuchs, was forced til make himself one to be upon the level with them. I'hi* Gentleman, it seems, was Lord of a Village or two, where both he and his Tenants were often plagued with the domineering Eunuchs; and having born their Malice for some time, and seeing no end of it, he agreed with an expert Gcldcr to castrate him : For here are many in this Country, who profess this Art, and arc so expert at it, that they will undertake to cut a Man of any Age, for so many thousand Cash as the Man is Years old. 'Tis reported, that they first put the Patient into a Sleep : But how long they arc curing him after the Operation is over, I know not. I heard of but three Mandarins of any grandeur in the G<ivemment, who were not Eunuchs. One was the Governor of the liast Province, whose Daughter was married to a Prince of the Koyal Family. The other two, who were Governors of Cachao, were also married Men, and had Children, and one of these married the Kill's Daughter. All the Mandarins rule with absolute I'-nrer and Authority in their several Precincts, yet in i:nat Obedience ta the King ; who is as absolute over them, ti they are over the common People. These Eunuch Mandarins especially live in great State. Many of these have command of the Soldiery, and have ■juards attending them at their own Houses; There being t Certain numba* of Soldiers allowed to attend on each '5 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^ VOYAGES M>» yAiZkiasTT^ KSf/rz-sa^ Zfj S2$ (j^saStr. Tlinr are gencnlly ^•^ vrf^/rjs btT'jBau: "saascrt^ aad tctt ssaBcioas. Some of ^ikcsn art Gvrtraors of Pryriaccs, bet ali are raised to Varjtk ^A trost and prote. On^ ^rftr% Xtxr the Masdarins receiir an Oath of Ai'js::^3UKt to the King, from all the principal Oflkcrs *jndfr them. This is done with great CerenHXiy: they cut the Throat of a Hen, and let the Blood fidl into a Bav^ of AradL Of this Aiack every Man has a small dnuzht given him to drink, after he has publickly declared ht^ wicerity and readiness to serre lus Prince. *Tis esteemed the v^lemnest tye by which any Man can ingage himself. This way of giving solemn podoos to drink, is used also in ^xher Countries, on different occasions. As particularly on the Gold Gxist of Guinea ; where when Men or Women are uxed for a Crime, be it of what Nature it will, but especially Adultery, and the matter cannot be proved by Evidence, the Fetissero or Priest decides the diflfcrence, by giving a potion of bitter Water to the Person accused : which it they refuse to take, they are supposed to be guilty without farther proof: but if they drmk it off, the event is said to be, that if the Persons be guilty, this Water immediately swells their bodies till they burst ; but if innocent, they are not hurt thereby. What tricks the Fctissero*s may play in compounding this Water, I know not ; but this kind of Tryal is frequent among them, and seems to be a remainder of the old Jewish Tryal ^ by the Waters of jealousy, spoken of in the 5th Chapter of Numbers. I am not sufficiently informed whether the Invent of the Tryal be such as it was among the Jews; but it seems they have a strong perswasion of it: and a guilty Person does ordinarily so dread the being brought to this Trial, that for the most part he or she choose rather to suffer the punishment of the Country, which is to be sold to Europeans as Slaves. This potion is called Bitter-water, and 'tis given by way of Trial upon any light suspicion even of a small injury. This account I have * The biblical rite is rather too long for quotation. 16 FBer!^i(?cM MANDAftlNS— CHOPSTICKS ^^■d from several vrbo have been in Guinea,' but especially ^^km Mr. Canby. ^^1 But to return to the Eunuch Mandarins, tho' they are ^^hlcr Enemies to those whom they take aversion against, vet on the other I'lind, ibey are as kind to their Favourites, md as complacent to their Visiunts, whether Foreigners "T Others, feasting them often. They love mightily to be visited, esteeming themselves highly honoured thereby. When they treat any, they are best pleased with those who eat and drink heartily; for this they suppose proceeds from their l»vc and hearty Affection to them : And indeed the Tofwjuinccrs in general arc very free to their Visitants, treating them with the Ijcst Cheer they are able to procure. In their I'jitcrtainments, and at ihcir ordinary Eating, astcad of Forks and Spoons, they use two small round ^tick* about the Length and Bigness of a Tobacco Pipe. I'hcv hold them i»oth in the right Hand, one between the [■'■•rc-Kinger and Thumb; the other between the Middle- Finger and the Fore-Finger, as our Boys do their Snappers. Ihcy use them very dcxtrously, taking up the smallest •rain of Rice with them; nor is it accounted mannerly to ■ uth the Food after it is drest, with their Hands: And :hi' it he difficult for Strangers to use them, being un- jiC'itoni'd to them, yet a little use will overcome that F):niL-uIty; and Persons that reside here ought to learn -IS. as well as other Customs of the Country, that are mocent, that so their Company may be more acceptable. All the Tonquincscs keep many of these Sticks in their Houses, as well for their own use, as to entertain Strangers at MeaU: They arc as ordinarily placed at the Table here, as Knives, Forks, and Spoons arc m England : And a Man that cannot dextrously handle these instruments, makes but an odd Figure at their Tables. The richer sort of People, especially the Mandarins, have them tipt with ' C/ Rtdianl Jabton'* " Dcscriptioa and bistoricall Declaration of the (oUca Kia^dotn of Ginnea," in I'mchos (ed. Mac L^hgse, vol. vi. pp. 315, )i&V "Till* Drinkc aanoog then is as much a» an Oath, and is suited rjKknnkeiUM ; which they nuke of the aame (jreenc Herbs whereof ihey ■~tkM tbnr FeiiaMt ; and at thoy uy, 11 hath tuch ■ force, that if a Man --^oketk it fal*cly, ibcir Fctitto cauMlb hjm to die." CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Silver. In China also these things are constantly used : 1688 ^hgy aj-g called by the English Seamen Chopsticks. When the Eunuch Mandarins dye, all their Riches fall to the King, who as Heir presently seizeth on their Estates, and by it gets vast Riches: For there is but little Money in the Kingdom, but what falls into the Clutches of these Birds of Prey. This probably may be one Reason why the King is for preferring none but them; for they are excellent Spunges for him : and whatever some have said of their Love to Justice, I could never learn that they deserve that Character : But through their Oppression, and injurious Dealings, trading is discouraged, and the Country is kept Poor, which otherwise might be a flourishing King- dom. After all, as very Eunuchs as these Mandarins are, yet they are as great Admirers of the Female Sex as any Men, and not satisfied without them, but they all keep several handsome young Wenches to dally and spend their time withal. They also love to be courted by Strangers to favour them with a Miss of their procuring. Nothing will engage them more than to petition them on this account; and the Person thus sollicited will not fail to procure a young Damsel for his Friend, be it but for a Night or two, or for 4 or 5 Months. Ever afterwards he will take a more than ordinary Care of the Persons he has thus brought together, and their AfFairs; and this base sort of Office is here accounted very decent and honourable. Yet the common Baudy-houses, tho' extreamly rife here, are by all of them accounted hateful and scandalous. 18 CHAP. V nrrtA I t Vnuh imt /nm Catbas It Ttnan Ic fitch Rice. A RrmeuHltr 'I Rebberi, Caih, a jurl ef Cein^ and Peorl- Auihtr'i ucand Jauntey up lo Cachao : Of tht PagiJat and Fitntral Tvwrr and Ftait ht met hy tkr way. The m^pt,\ Oyttm. Tfu 4 Mi t H tatty I tmltrtmnMfni llurt, and ditcaune with one o/lhtir Priests. Tkr itotf if thtir Afiiiitn, and of Chriftianity, in these Idalatreui Cmturia. Hit making tf Gun-Pau/dtr. He goei en frem Hren It Caikaty and aftrr a ihert stay thrr/y hoci again If the Shi/a. Of ^^_ tht tmpmemeiiti that might ie made af aiir English Factory here. ^^H Tht 4Mlh»r'i drfartmre fi-»m Tenfuin, ^^'W' HAVE already spoken of my first going up the ■ River to Cachau, and my returning ^ck again to I our Ships after a few days. There I lay on board .A- for a great while, and sickly for the most part ; yet not so, but inat I louk a boat and went ashore one where or other almost every day : and by this means I took as parti- cular notice as I could of the Country, and have supplied my own obsen-atlons with those of our Merchants residing there, and other Persons of Judgment, and Integrity. During this interval. Rice being dear at Cachao, as it had been for some time, both our Merchants and Natives were for making up a Fleet of small Vessels, to fetch Rice from the Neighbouring Provinces, both for their own use and to supply the Markets: and they never go in single VcBcls, for fear of Pirates, who infest the Coast with their •^.innas, and shelter themselves among several little Islands, ing at the edge of the Hast Province, and bordering upon ■ ic Province of Tenan, whither these Merchants were •tund. Captain Weldoo was one who concerned himself in this '9 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES An. expedition, hiring a Vessel and Seamen of the Tonquinese, ^^^ and sending some of his own Men with them as a Guard, among whom I would very fain have gone, had I not been indbposed. Mr. Ludford, who had liv*d sometime at Cachao before our arrival, was another Undertaker, and went himself on board the Bark he had hired ; but Captain Weldon staid behind at the City, yet took care to get a Commission from the Govemour of the East-Province for his Vessel. In the Commission 'twas exprest, that his Boat should be armed with Guns, or other Weapons, and that his Men should resist any that came to oppose them, or any Vessels in their Company ; and that they might kill and destroy any Robbers that they met with. The Passage to Tenan lay most within Land, thro' Creeks and narrow Channels, among the Islands before-mentioned, which are so many, and lye on the East-side of the Bay so thick to- ;ether, and so nigh the shoar, that at a small distance off at ►ea they appear to be part of the Main. This little Archi- pelago lies within the precincts of the Governour of the East-Province, from whom Captain Weldon had his Com- mission, and who was a very great Man in the Court of Tonquin. When the Fleet came to this place, some who lay here came forth ; and they concluded they must be the Pirates, come to seize their Prey as at other times. These always choose rather to take the outward-bound Vessels, because then they have all of them Cash or Money aboard to purchase their Ladings ; but in their Returns they would have only Rice, which these People do not so much regard. At this time Captain Weldon's Dutch Pilot, the chief Man whom he sent in his Bark, was aboard Mr. Ludford's : And when the supposed Pirates came up, Mr. Ludford and he made the Seamen row the Bark to meet them, and in a short time got so near, that they fired at them. These Men not expecting to have met such a Reception, for the Tonquinese have no Guns, but in the King's Gallies, thought to save themselves by Flight : but were so eagerly pursued by Mr. Ludford, that at last they yielded to his Mercy, after they had lost one Man in Fight. He, joyful of this Success, secured the Prisoners, and made the best of 20 -SOMB SWPPOSED PIRATES I Course io the next Town on the Coast in his i : dciivermg up his Prisoners to the Magistrates, ; a full Relation of the Action. He expected i for his Pains, or at least to be highly applauded but found himself misukcn. For the FVisoners obttinately denying what was atledged against them by Mr. Ludfbrd, saying they were poor Fishermen, they v.'cre immcdbtely acquitted as very honest Persons, aniid Mr. Ludford was accused for committing a Riot on Men who were about their lawful Occasions. Mr. Ludford brought many of the Natives, that were in his Company, to justify what he had done, but to no Purpose; for he was fined looooo Cash, as our Merchants call it, for the Man that %vzi killed. Cash arc a small kind of Copper-Money : and ;:* the only Coin they have of their own, if it be their •All, and not rather bniught them from China. They rise and fell in value according lo the Want or Plenty of them, or as the Women-exchangers can manage them : But at this Time they were at the Rate of a Dollar a thousand ; so that hia Fine was loo Dollars. When Mr. Ludford saw how hard it was Itkc to go with him, he thought to clear himself, or lessen his fine, by hringing Captain Wcldon into the Snare; saying that he had no Guns in his Bark, but ;iade use nf Captain Weldon's, and that Captain Weldon's Pilot was aboard his Vessel, and assisted in the Action. ^t neither did this help him : for upon trying the matter t Cachao, whither 'twas carried by Appeal, Captain Ifcldoo'i Commission saved him : so that Mr. Ludford 1 to pay the Money, which was more than he got Voyage. This might he a warning to him, how he with Tonquin Pirates again ; for it was not enou^ for him to plead that they came with an Intent to ri>b him. Indeed if he had been robbed, he might have iiecn pitied by the Magistrates on Complaint of his Mi»- r>r*ijnc : But yet it is very probable, that if he should have ukcn them in the very Fact, nosscst of his Goods, those \ crmin would have had one Hole or another to creep out K; io corrupt are the great Men of this Kingdom. And indeed 'ti* not improbable that these Fellows were Fisher- CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. men, and going about their Business: For there is good 1688 Fishing in all the Bay of Tonquin clear round it, and there are many Boats that go out a Fishing, and the Fishermen are generally very honest and harmless Men ; except now and then, they attempt to make a Prize of some poor Vessel they meet, and can overcome by their Numbers with- out Fighting ; for such an one they board, and strip all the Men naked even to their Skin. Among these Islands also, by report, there are Plenty of Pearl Oysters, that have good Pearls in them ; but the Seamen are discouraged from fish- ing for them by the King, for he seizeth on all he finds. But this by the way ; nor was any thing else observable in this Voyage to Tenan. These vessels were 5 or 6 weeks in their Voyage to and from Tenan : And at their return Captain Weldon's Bark went not up to Cachao with the Rice, but unladed it into our Ship to supply us. Soon after this I went a second time up to Cachao, not in a Boat as before, but on Foot along the Country, being desirous to see as much of it as I could : and I hired a Tonquinese for about a Dollar to be my Guide. This, tho' but a small matter, was a great deal out of my Pocket, who had not above 2 Dollars in all, which I had gotten on board, by teaching some of our young Seamen Plain Sailing.^ This was all I had to bear my own charges and my Guides ; and 'twas the worse with me, because I was forced to make short Journeys every Day by Reason of my Weak- ness : It was about the latter end of November 1688, when we set out. We kept on the East-side of the River, where we found the Roads pretty dry, yet in some places dirty enough. We ferryed over several Creeks and Brooks running into the great River, where are Ferry-Boats always plying, which have a few Cash for their Fare. The Fever and Ague which I brought with me from Achin was gone ; yet the Fruits I eat here, especially the small Oranges, brought me into a Flux. However though I was but weak, yet I was not discouraged from this Journey, being ^ One of the simplest calculations by which a ship's position may be determined. 22 r H^vory of FUNERAL TOWER AND FEAST f of lying still, and impatient of seeing somewhat that might further gratify my curiosity. We found no Houses of Entertainment on the Road, yet at every Village we came to we got House-room, and a Barbecue of split Bambocs to sleep on. The People were Very civil, lending us an earthen Pot to dress Rice, or any thing else. Usually after Supper, if the Day was not shut in. r took a ramble about the Village, to see what was worth taking notice of, especially the Pagoda of the place. These had the Image of either an Horse, an Elephant, or both, standing with the Head looking out of the Doors : The Pagodas themselves were but small and low. I still made it dark Night before I returned ro my Lodging, and then I laid me down to sleep. My Guide carried my Sea-Gown, which was my covering in the night, and my Pillow was a Log of Wood : But I slept very well, tho' the weakness of my Body did now require better accom- modation. The third day after my setting out, about 3 a Clock in the afternoon, I saw before me a small Tower ; such as I mentioned before, as erected for a time in honour of some great Person deceased. But I knew not then the meaning of it, for I had not seen the like before in the Country. As I came nearer to it, I saw a Multitude of People, most of ihcm Men and Boys; and coming nearer still, I saw a grat deal of Meat on the Stalls, that were plac'd at a imall distance from the Tower. This made me conclude that it was some great Market, and that the Flesh I saw was for sale: Therefore I went in among the Crowd, as »dl to see the Tower as to buy some of the Meat for my ~ T, it being now between 4 and 5 a Clock in the noon. My Guide could not speak English, neither •uld 1 speak the Tooquinesc Language : So I asked him * questions about it ; and he too went readily in with me; it may be not knowing my intent was to buy. First I wtnt round the Tower and viewed it : It was four- iquare, each side about 8 foot broad : at the Ground the beighth of it was about 26 foot, but at the top somewhat aatrowcr than at the bottom. I saw no door 10 enter into '3 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. it : it seemed to be very slightly built, as least covered with 1688 ^hj,^ boards, which were all joyned close together, and painted of a dark reddish colour. I then went on to the Stalls, which had Sheds built over them: And there I viewed the Fruits and Flesh, each of which was ranged in order apart. I past by Abundance of Oranges packt up in Baskets, which I think were the fairest I ever saw, and for Quantity more than I had seen gathered all the Time I was at Tonquin. I past by these, and seeing no other Fruit, I came to the Flesh-Stalls, where was nothing but Pork, and this also was all cut into Quarters and Sides of Pork: I thought there might be fifty or sixty Hogs cut up thus, and all seenled to be very good Meat. When I saw that there was none of it in small pieces, fit for my use, I, as was customary in the Markets took hold of a Quarter, and made Signs to the Master of it, as I thought, to cut me a Piece of two or three Pound. I was ignorant of any Ceremony they were about, but the superstitious PcTiple soon made me sensible of my Errour: For they assaulted me on all Sides, buffeting me and renting my Cloaths, and one of them snatched away my Hat. My Guide did all he could to appease them, and dragg'd me out of the Crowd : Yet some surly Fellows followed us, and seemed by their Countenance and Gestures to threaten me ; but my Guide at last pacifyed them and fetched my Hat, and we marched away as fast as we could. I could not be informed of my Guide what this meant ; but some- time after, when I was returned to our Ship, the Guide*s Brother, who spoke English, told me, it was a Funeral Feast, and that the Tower was the Tomb which was to be burned ; and some English Men who lived there told me the same. This was the only Funeral Feast that ever I was at among them, and they gave me cause to remember it : but this was the worst Usage I received from any of them all the time I was in the Country. When I was out of this trouble, my Guide and I marched forwards. I was both weary and hungry, and I think my appetite was raised by seeing so much Food : For indeed at first sight of it I concluded to have had a good Supper ; but now I 24 THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT HEAN w»5 likely to sup uiUy on Rice, or a Yam roasted, and two Eggs, as I us'd to do. For tho' there were Fowls to be ''** bought at every House where I lay, yet my Pocket would not reach them ; and for other Flesh, there was none to be ^usd. unless my way had lain thro' the Town when it was ^btfarkel-day with them. ^HL Two Days after this I got with much ado to Hean, ^^br my Flux cncrcascd, and my strength decreased. I ^^Vc9cntly made towards the French Bishops, as the likeliest H^rlux for me both to rest at, ami get larger Informations of the Country, from the European Missionaries, whose Seat it is. The Bishop's Palace is a pretty neat tow House, standing at the North-end of the Town, by the side of the River. Tis encompassed with a pretty high Wall, and has a large Gate to enter at. The Gate stands fronting to the Street, and runs up with Houses on both sides, and ends at the Palace. Within the Wall there is a small Yard, that goes round the Palace; and at the farther End of the Yard there are small lodging-rooms for the Servants, and other necessary Offices. The House it self is not very lai^e nor high ; it stands not in the middle of the Yard, but rather nearest the Gate, which Gate is open all day, but shut in the Night. That part that fronts the Gate, has a pretty neat Room, which seems to be designed for ibc reception of Strangers : for it has no communica- tioo with any other Room in the House, tho' joyncd to it as one building : the Door by which you enter it, fronts ^mto the Gate, and this Door also stands open all the day. ^■^ When I came hither I cntrcd the Gate, and seeing no ^Btoody in the Yard, I went into that Room. At the Door ^^therwif, I found a small Line hanging down, which I pulled ; and a Bell ringing within, gave notice of my being there ; yet no Body appearing presently, I went in and sate down. There was a Table in the middle of the Room, and handsome Chairs, and several European Pictures hung upon the Walls. It was ni>t long before one of the Priests came into the Room to me, and received me very civilly. With him 1 had a great deal of Discourse ; He was a French Man by H CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Nation, but spoke Spanish and Portuguese very well. It 1686 ^as chiefly in Spanish that we entertained each other, which I understood much better than I could speak : yet I ask'd him Questions, and made a shift to answer him to such Questions as he asked me; and when I was at a loss in my Spanish, I had recourse to Latin, having still some smatterings of what I learnt of it at School in my youth. He was very free to talk with me, and first asked me my business thither? I told him that my business was to Cachao, where I had been once before; that then I went by Water, but now I was moved by my curiosity to travel by Land, and that I could not pass by any Europeans without a Visit, especially such a famous place as this. He asked me many other Questions, and particularly if I was a Roman Catholick ? I told him no ; but falling then into a Discourse about Religion, he told me what Progress the Gospel was like to make in these Eastern Nations. First he began with the Nicobar Islands, and told me what I have related of that matter, in the 17 Chapter of my "Voyage round the World," page 464, for this was the Person I there quoted, and from whom I had that Relation ; as he told me he had it from the Friar, who wrote to him from Fort St. George. But that Friar having been a Passenger in Captain Weldon's Ship, from one of the Nicobar Islands to Fort St. George, I askt the Captain's Opinion of that relation since my writing that Book, and he gave me a quite contrary account of the People of Nicobar ; that they were a very perverse, false and thievish People, and did not deserve the good Character the Friar gave of them. But to proceed with the discourse I had with the French Priest at Hean. He told me, that in Siam the Gospel was in a very fair way to receive incouragement by the means of a French Bishop there, and several Ecclesi- asticks he had with him there to assist him : That the great Minister of State, Constant Falcon, had embraced the Romish Faith ; and that the King was very much inclined to it, the Courtiers also seeming well enough pleased with it. Insomuch that 'twas hop'd that in a short Time the 26 DISCOURSE WITH FRENCH MISSIONARY irhole N*tion would be converted : And that though the a™ ICountry People in general were against it, yet by the '^^ Icjamplc of the King and his Court, the rest might come by dcgtres; especially because the Priests had free rderation to use their endeavours. As for Tonquin, he 'i me that the People in general were inclined to embrace Christian Faith, but that the Government was wholly averse to it: that the Missionaries who lived here did not openly profess to be Teachers of their Doctrine, but that they lived here under the notion of Merchants, and not as Clergy-Mcn ; that this was a great Obstacle to Chris- tianity, yet ne^'ertheless they found ways to draw the People from their Ignorance : that at present they had about 14OOO Converts, and more coming in daily. He told me, that here were two Bishops, I think both French Men; one of them was entitled the Bishop of Ascalon, the other of Auran ; and that here were ten Priests of Europe, and three more of the Natives of Tonquin, who had been ordained Popish Priests. But since I have been informed, that these French Bishops were not suffered to live at Cachao; neither may they at any time go thither without a Licence from the Govcrnour ; and such a Licence also must be procured by the Favour of some Mandarin who lives at Cachao, for whom the Bishop or other Missionary is to perform some trivial Work or other. For the MJssioncrs living here are purposely skilled in mending Clocks, Watches, or some Mathematical I Instruments, of which the Country People are ignorant; this gives them the opportunity of being often sent r to Cachao by the Mandarins : And when they are there, I small Job that would not require above 5 or 6 Hours to rform, they will be twice as many days about, pretend- great difficulty in the work; by which means they £c their liberty privately to teach their Disciples that live there ; and then also they enjoy themselves with the English ami Dutch Merchants, to whom they are always welcoRic. A* to the Converts these People have made, 1 have _been credibly informed that they are chiefly of the very 27 I rj'j J^'icaJ't Tp^^t'.i- V -iTit r^^irriiriAiat- nir vsrr bond TfarhfTS. 'lit '^:j'-:r.a:i suttt. hir. a^ tmnr^ snmr sr ;■ -^ i^, it >•,••: Mil '^t i-nizyrxjSLiuz zisr. Zjrrszsmrr shrmiz frocnfy '^fic'v > .r 5Ji ::ti^ Z*ii^I-aT jith 3irrr ir rit^ Pma of Jt.* ifiC^c^sC fci tTic K'jc:a.rJBi5 trt -ire injx Ma: -«riic. cosnptss V* ^^i^ ijk.uz V. gi.:!! i^r-jscLvisL. s: "dirr tset aesm to hive '^j«: Ac • fc':'-fc^t V • ^ Pr-xtrKir: ^Ez^sifrs i: ticse liolitrous <yj. ';Vf ;ct; • '^r: rr^ry zr*:yizr, -jrm -irrr s^jii tsc of Objects f'/r K*; ijf^v.t V/'/r^:p ^^ tiktr.' h£~* ^ecn :2aed to already: J"^ *r-»: c/Arj^r^e h r^^c gret-: fr-c: P£gzi: Idois to Images //^ >*:?.♦ i; wr,:'.ri rrjty vtr.c HzogtrJiitT as ireil for the poor V/^^t *f^:'/ "j^jTs'^ktz^ 't^T^j art g-idcd only by Sense. But \\jr,n K'^Kti h:rK i;V>, these People baring been bred up in ihr. H'-Mrf of the G<x/dn«s of their own Gods or Heroes, ih'Y will r/iorc hardly be brought over to change their own Molt» Off tv:w <n\t%^ without some better Arguments lo iiio'/c fhcv: to Ik; more valuable, than the Missionaries i/i'lifurily are able to afford them: And if I may freely ^ycdV. my ^>|>inion, I am apt to think, that the gross Moluf ry of flic Paiii«ts is rather a Prejudice, than Advan- iiH^r ti, their Miiisions, and that their first care should be in hriii({ iIm- IVopli: to lie virtuous and considerate, and iluir iM'Xi, id ^(\vc them a plain History and Scheme of I hi- JMiMiUim-iiial Truths of Christianity, and shew them Imw iinr»Tul»lr they iirc to natural Light, and how worthy III ( fiiil. IImI In ivfurn to the Krcnch Priest; he at length asked IMP il iHiv n( nur JMiglish Shij-^ brought Powder to sell? 2« [AUTHOR'S MAKING OF GUNPOWDER i>Id him, I thought mtt. Then he asked me if I knew ax. Composition of Powder ? I answered thit 1 had '*^ ipti how to make cither Cannon or fine Powder,' and him the manner of the Composition. Said he, I have same Receipts from France, and have tryed to make ■dcr, but could not ; and therrforr I think the fault is our Coals. Then he asked me many Questions about the Coals, what were proper to be used, but that I could wrt satisfie him in. He desired mc to try to make a 'ound, and wiihat lold mc, that he had all the Ingredients, i an Hncinc to mix them. I was equally persuaded to t my Skill, which I had never yet tried, not knowing 'hat i might be put to before 1 got to England ; and having drank a Glass or two of Wine with him. I went to work; and it succeeded so well, that I pleased Kim ex- mcly, and satisfied my own desire of trying the Receipt, id the Reader shall have the History* of the Operation, he piraws. He brought mc Sulphur and Salt-petre, and weighed a Portion of each of these, and of Coals I itbcred up in the Hearth, and beat to Powder. While » Man mixed these in a little Engine, I made a small ;vc nf Parchment, which [ pricked full of Holes, with a ■mail Iron nude hot, and this was to corn it. I had two large Oxo-niiw to roul in the Sieve, and work it thro* the Holes to com it. When it was dry wc proved ii, and it answcr'd our Expectation. The Receipt 1 had out of Captain Sturmcy's MagaziH ' of Arts. The being so successful in this put me afterwards on ._ rencwinff of Powder at Bencouli, when 1 was there lunncr of inai Fort. There being then about 30 Barrels ■ Caanm, ordaaocc, or com powder wu {,-eocrally nude .-u fallaws : Ki* In nr »* p>n» of relliKd uliprirc, one pari of nonA alJcr chatcoal, ■^ — UDO qoKauty of 6n« yellow sulphur. The i n (; fed ic ills were fanised _ _ . a a oMiur whicli wai kept »«t wiUi bnndy. NVhcn the mixture «•• compteu Ibe tiaff <rat dried and aified. Kinc powilei, for priminK or lMnMi&«mM, ii t c dMi a UrKcr (imiponion of sdipctie. ■ C^Uia Samutl Siurtn«y, author of " The Manner's MngBiinc." The timd Mbtam ol ibis wock (the only edition 1 have handled) was published ta I6I4, with ancDdinenu t»y J, Cobon. It i» an instructive and eoiertain- ■■K wntk, ooouinioe ■ nombei of receipti and " wrinkle* m navi^Xmn-" r wa* MMBeibtnx of a poet. H:s portrait ii that of a hnndiome. It ii DUtfVcd with a ruriau* mrstical symbol. »9 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. damnified, which was like mud, they took it out of the "^8 Gisk, and put it into earthen Jars, that held about 8 Barrels a piece. These they call Montaban Jars, from a Town of that name in Pegu, whence they are brought and carried all over India. In these *twas intended to send the Powder to Fort St. George, to be renewed there : But I desired the Govemour to let me first try my skill on it, because we had but little Powder in the Fort, and might have wanted before any returns could be expected from thence. The Salt-petre * was sunk to the bottom of the Jars, but I mixt it and beat it all together, and corned it with Sieves which I made of my own old Parchment Draughts. I made thus 8 Barrels full of very good Powder before I went from thence. The French Priest told me in conclusion, that the Grandees make all their own Powder; and since I have been informed, that the Soldiers make Powder, as I have already said. I spent the remainder of the Day in the Palace with the Priest. He told me that the Bishop was not well, otherwise I should have seen him : And that because it was a Fish-day, I could not expect such Entertainment, as I might have had on another Day ; yet he ordered a Fowl to be broiled for my Dinner, and I dined by my self. In the Evening he sent me out of the Palace, desiring to be excused, that he could not entertain me all Night : yet he ordered his Man to lodge me in a Tonquinese Christian House not far from thence. The People were civil, but very poor, and my Lodging such as I had met with on the Road. I have since been told, that the new Christians come to do their Devotion in the Palace at Night, and for that Reason probably, I was so soon dismist. I was now again pretty well refreshed, and might have gone to Cachao City a foot : but fearing my strength, I chose to go by Water. Therefore I sent back my Guide : yet before he departed back to our Ships, he bargained with a Tonquinese Waterman for my Passage to Cachao. The Tide not serving presently to imbark, I walked ' It had this property. Aboard ships of war the powder- casks had to be turned at least once a month in order that the nitre should not separate. 30 HE GOES BY BOAT UP TO CACHAO fabout the Town, and spent the Oay^ in viewing it : in the j Evening I embarked, and they choose an Evening for cool- ' Dcsa, rowing all Night. The boat was about the bigness of a Gnvesend Wherry, and was used purposely to cany Passenger*, having a small covering over-head to keep them dry when it rained. There were 4 or 5 more of these BoBti, thai went up this Tide full of Passengers. In our Boat were about 20 Men and Women, besides 4. or 6 that rowed us. The Women chose their Places and sat by themselves, and they had much respect shewed them : But the Men stowed close together, without shewing any respect marc to one than to another, yet all very Civil. I thrust in among the thickest of them at first, but my Flux would noc suffirr me to rest long in a Place. About Midnight we Were set ashore to refresh ourselves at a Baiting- Place, where there were a few Houses close by the Rivers Side, and the People up, with Candles lighted, Arack and Tea, and little Spits of Meat, and other Provisions ready drest, to rectave us. For these were all Houses of Entertainment, and probably got their living by entertaining Passengers. We stayed here about an Hour, and then entered again on our Boat, and rowed forwards. The Passengers spent the Time in merry Discourse, or Singing, after their Way, tho* to us it seems like crying; but I was mute for want of a Person I could converse with. About 8 or 9 a Clock the neat Day 1 was set ashore : the rest of the Passengers remained in the Boat, but whither they were bound I know noe, nor whether the Boat went quite up to Cachao. I was now 5 or 6 Mtlcs short of the City, but in a good Path ; for the Land here was pretty high, level and sandy, and the Rood plain and dry, and 1 reached Cachao by Noon. I presently went to one Mr. Bowycrs House, who was a free Merchant, with whom Captain Weldon lodged, and staid with them a few Days; but so weak with my Flux, which daily cncrcased, that I was scarce able to go about, and so was forced 'to learn by others, in a great Measure, several particulars relating to this Place. This my weakness, joined with my disappointment, for 1 found that I was not like to be employed in any Voyage to the Neighbouring 3' J CAPTAIN DAMPIER^ VOYAGES A3f. Countries, as it had been proposed to mc, made mc very '^^ desirous of remming back again, as soon as might be : and it happened oppjcrunely, that Captain Weldon had by this time done his Business^ and was preparing for his Departure. I went therefore down the River again to our Ships, in a Vessel our Merchants had hired, to carry th^ Goods aboard fn^m Cachao. Among other freight, there were 2 Bells of abiDut 500 weight each, which had been cast at Cachao by the Tonquinese, for my Lord Falcon, the King of Siam's chief Minister of State, and for the use of some of the Christian Churches in Siam. The Person who be- spoke them, and was to carry them, was Captain Brewster, who had not very long before come from Siam in a Ship of that King's, and had been cast away on the Coast of Tonquin, but had saved most of his Goods. With these he traded at Cachao, and among other Goods he had purchased to return with to Siam, were these 2 Bells, all which he sent down to be put on Board Captain Weldon's Ship. But the Bark was no sooner come to Hean, in going down the River, but the Governor of Hean's Officers came on Board the Bark and seized the 2 Bells in Behalf of the chief of the English Factory ; who understanding they were designed for the King of Siam, which they were not so sure of as to the rest of the Goods, and the English being then at War with the Siamers, he made this his pretence for seizing them, and got the Governor to assist him with his Authority : and the Bells were accordingly carried ashore, and kept at Hean. This was thought a very strange Action of the chief of the Factory to seize Goods as belonging to the King of Siam, while.they were in a River of Tonquin : but he was a Person but meanly qualified for the Station he was in. Indeed had he been a Man of Spirit, he might have been serviceable in getting a Trade with Japan, which is a very rich one, and much coveted by the Eastern People themselves as well as Europeans. For while I was there, there were Merchants came every Year from Japan to Tonquin ; and by some of these our English Factory might probably have settled a Corcspondence and Traffick, but he who was little qualified 32 ibf tJ Bof Pi CHANCES OF TRADING TO JAPAN for the Station he was in, was less fit for any new Under- " ig : and tho' Men ought not to run inconsiderately into ' Discoveries or Undertakings, yet where there is a prospect of Profit, I think it not amiss for Merchants to try for a Trade, for if our Ancestors had been as dull as we have been of late, 'tis probable wc had never known the way so much » to the East-Indies, but must have been beholden to our Ncighboura for all the product of those Eastern Nations. What care was formerly taken to get us a Trade into the East-ln>iics, and other Countries ? What Pains particularly did some ukc to find out the Muscovites by doubling the North Cape, and away thence by land Trade into Persia ? but now, as if wc were cloy'd with Trade, we sit still contented, uytng with Cato, No» minsr ai virtus quam quierere porta mm. This was the Saying of an eminent Merchant of the East-India Company to me : but by his leave, our Neigh- bours have c:n<:roachcd on us, and that in our times too. However, 'tis certainly for the Interest of our Merchants to employ fit Men in their Factories, since the Reputation of :he Company riscth or falls by the discreet Management, ■ T the til Conduct of the Agents. Nor is it enough for the thief of a Factory to be a good Merchant, and an honest Man : For tho" these arc necessary Qualifications, yet the Govcmour, or chief of the Factory ought to know more than barely how to buy, sell, and keep Accompts : Especially where other European Merchants reside among them, or :rade to the same Places; for they keep a diligent Eye on the Management of our Aflfairs, and are always ready to take all Advantages of our Mis-improvements. Neither 'jught this Care to be neglected where wc have the Trade to our selves, for there ought to be a fair Understanding betWBcii us and the Natives, and care taken that they should have no reason to complain of unjust dealings, as I could ihew where there has been ; but tis an invidious Subject, and all that I aim at is to give a caution. But to the Matter in Hand, it seemed to me that our Factory at Tonquin might have got a Trade with Japan : and to China M much as they pleased. I confess the continual Wars between Tonquin and Cochinchina, were enough to obstruct »ot. II. 33 c CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. the Designs of making a Voyage to this last: and those '^^ other Places of Champa and Cambodia as they are less known, so was it more unlikely still to make thither any profitable Voyages : yet possibly the Difficuldes here also is not so great, but Resolution and Industry would overcome them; and the Profit would abundantly compensate the Trouble. But to proceed, we found there was no recovering the Bells : so we fell down from Hean to our Ships : and Captain Weldon coming to us in a few Days, and Captain Brewster with him, to go as a Passenger in his Ship, together with one or two more ; and 2 Ships who came with us being also ready for their Departure, we all weighed Anchor, and took leave of Tonquin. 34 CHAP. VI Thty ut i»i/ ma tf tk* Btiy rf Tnfuin. Of the R. and Cmattry rf CmmUdia : Of Chinru Piratn teltUd itifrr, anJ tkf Biggatut^ m MTt tfSti£rrt undtr ih Kimg tfSiam, ttth rtutrJ hj t/u EagSih i« kii lerokt. Tfuj pott kf PmJt Ctmdsrt, art In fiar af tht King rf Simm, mid nltr the Strtightt »f Mataaa hj Brntfr't Strtights. Tk^ mrrivt at Malacca. Tkt Sttry »/ Captain Jthnitn : hit hiyimgm Vnul at Malacca, and going fVrr It BaiicalJi, a Trnrs m ike tpfauU Ctcit «f Sumatra, ta hiy Ptpptr. Hit Murdtr ^ the Maiayani thrrc, aid the narrttu ticape »/ his Men and VetteL The Slate tf Trade in th*u Parti, and the RettrainI put up»n it. Captain JshntenU Fntel trsught It Malacca by Mr. Wtllu The Amihtr't Drparturi from Malacca, and arrival at Achin, IT was the beginning of February i68j| when we left ks. this Country. Wc went over the Bar 3 Ships in '^ Company, the Rainbow Captain Pool Commander, bound tor London, and Captain Lacy in the Saphire, Sound for Fort St. George, and I was in Captain Weldon's Ship the Cartanty bound thither also. We kept Company i-ime time after our departure from Tonquin, and having an Easterly Wind wc kept more to the middle of the Bay iA Tonquin, or towards the Eastern Side, than when we entered : by which means we had ihe Opportunity of wmndinii " *«" in tbc middle of the Bay now, as wc had n the West «dc of it, at our coming into the Bay. Coming out of the Bay of Tonquin, wc stotxi away Southward, having the Sholcs of Pracel on our Larboard, »nd the Coasts of Cochinchina, Champa, and Cambodia on (niT Surboard. I have just mentioned these Kingdoms in my former Volume ; and here I have but little to say of them, having only sail'd by them. But not altogether tu fail die Readers Expectation, I shall give a brief Account I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of one or two Particulars relating to Gtmbodia : for as to 1689 Champa I have nothing material to speak ; and Cochinchina, I have already spoken of in this Volume, as I went to Tonquin. The Kingdom of Cambodia seems to be much such a kind of Country within Land as the lower Parts of Tonquin : low Land, very woody, and little inhabited, lying on each Side a great River that comes from the North a great way, and falls into the Sea over against Pulo Condore. I know not the particular Product of Cambodia, but in the Vessels mentioned in my former Vol. p. 396. as taken at Pulo Ubi, and which came thither from Cambodia ; there were besides Rice, Dragons Blood, Lack, in great Jars, but it looked blackish and thick ; and the yellow purging Gum, which we from thence call Cambodia, in great Cakes, but I know not whence they get it. This River and Kingdom (if it be one) is but little known to our Nation, yet some Englishmen have been there ; parti- cularly Captain Williams and Captain Howel, the last of whom I came acquainted with some time after this at Fort St. George, and I had of him the following Account, the Particulars of which I have also had confirmed by the Seamen who were with them. These two Captains, with many more Englishmen, had been for some time in the Service of the King of Siam, and each of them commanded a stout Frigat of his, manned chiefly with English and some Portuguese born at Siam. These the King of Siam sent against some Pyratcs, who made spoil of his Subjects trading in these Seas, and nested themselves in an Island up the River of Cambodia, Captain Howel told me, that they found this River very large, especially at its Mouth ; that 'tis deep and navigable for very great Vessels, 60 or 70 Leagues up, and that its depth and wideness extended much further up, for ought we knew: but so far they went up at this time with their Ships. The Course of the River is generally from North to South : and they found the Land low on each side, with many large Creeks and Branches, and in some Places con- siderable Islands. They bended their Course up that 36 S<3 1RATES IN THE RIVER OF CAMBODIA Branch which seemed most considerable, having the Tide of Klood with them, and the River commonly so wide, as '**' to give them room to turn or make Angles where the bending of the River was such as to receive a contrary fast, or South-East Sea-Wind. These Reaches or Bend- DDgs of the River East and West were very rare ; at least as to make ihdr Course be against the Sea-wind, which immonly blew in their Stem, and so fresh, that with it ley could stem the Tide of Ebb. But in the Night when he Land-winds came, they anchored, and lay still till about I o or II a-CIock the next Day, at which time the Sea-breezes usually sprang up again, and enabled them to ■continue ihcir Course, till they came to the Island, where Pirates inhabited. They presently began to fire at m, and landing their Men routed them, and burnt their ]ouie« and Fortifications; and taking many Prisoners, returned again. These Kratical People were by Nation Chinese, who .when the Tartars conquered their Country, fled from "icncc in their own Ships: as chosing rather to live any here free, than to submit to the Tartars. These it seems their flight bent their Course towards this Country, and I'finJing the River of Cambodia open before them, they bold to enter, and settle on the Island before men- There they built a Town, and fenced it round •with a kind of Wood pile, or Wall of great Timber llid along, of the Thickness of 3 or 4 of these Trees, itf about as many in-hcighth. They were provided :h all sorts of Planters Instruments, and the Land here- its was excellent good, as our Englishmen told me, so X it U like they might have lived here happily enough, had their Inclinations led them to a quiet Life : but they brought Arms along with them, and chose to use them, rather than their Instruments of Husbandry : and they lived therefore mostly by rapin, pillaging their Neighbours, who »r«re more addicted to traffick than fighting. But the Kingof Siam's Subjects having been long harrasscd by them at Sea, he fint sent s<jme Fiwccs by Land to drive them out of their Fort : till not succeeding that way, he entirely 37 I I I CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES A%, routed zhczm by serr^'i'^g thse z Stiips up the Riyer. The '^ 2 English Caprz-ns hiTing thus diiszt^d their Bu^ess, re- turned out of the Rirer with rairiT IVisoners: but the South-Wcst M*jnsc«ja being already set in, they could not presently return to Sbsi, and therefore went to Macao in China ; as well to w^t for the N. East Monsoon, as to ingratiate themselves with the Tartars, who they thought would be pleased with the Conquest, which they had made over these Chinese Pvrates. Thev were well entertained there by the Tartarian Governor, and gave him their Prisoners; and upon the shifting of the Monsoon, they returned to Siam. There they were received with great Applause. Nor was this the first successful Expedition the English have made in the King of Siam*s Service. They once saved the Country, by suppressing an Insurrec- tion made by the Buggasses. The Buggasses are a sort of war-like trading Malayans, and mercenary Soldiers of India : I know not well whence they come, unless from Macasser in the Island Celebes. Many of them had been entertained at Siam in the King's Service : but at last being disgusted at some ill Usage, they stood up in their own Defence. Some Hundreds of them got together, all well armed : and these struck a Dread into the Hearts of the Siamites, none of whom were able to stand before them ; till Constant Falcon the chief Minister, commanded the English that were then in the King's Service to march against them, which they did with Success, though with some considerable loss. For these Services the King gave every Year to each of them a great Silk Coat, on which were just 13 Buttons. Those of the chief Commanders were of Massy Gold, and those of the inferior Officers were of Silver Plate. This Expedition against the Chinese Pyrates was about the Year 1687 : the other Broil with the Buggasses was, as I take it, some time before. But to proceed with our Voyage, we still kept our way Southward, and in Company together, till we came about Pulo Condore ; but then Captain Pool parted from us, standing more directly South for the Streights of Sundy : and we steered more to the Westward, to go through the 38 ENTERS STREIGHTS OF MALACCA ireights of Malacca, through which we came before. Captain Brewster and another of our Passengers began now '^ to be in fear that the King of Siani would send Ships to lie at the Mouth of the Sireights of Malacca, and intercept Passage, because there was a war broke out between English Easi-fndta Company and that Prince. This med the more likely, because the French at this time Were cmplfiyed in that King's Service, by the Means of a French Bishop and irther Ecclesiasticks, who were striving to convert the King and People to Christianity, through the Interest they had got in Constant Falcon. Particularly they were afraid that the King of Siam would send the 3 Ships before-mentioned, which Captain Williams, and Captain Howel had commanded a little Iwfore, to Jie at the West-End of the Streights Mouth ; but probably manned with Frenchmen and French Commanders to take us. Now though this made but little Impression on the Minds of our Commanders and Officers, yet it so hapned, that we had «uch thick dark Weather when we came near the first Entrance of the Streights of Malacca, which was thai we came by, and by which we meant to return, that wc thought it not safe to stand in at Night, and so lay by till Morning. The next Day wc saw a Jonk to the South- w2nJ, and chased her; and having spoke with her we made Sail, and stood to the Westward to pass the Streights, and nuking the Land, we found we were to the Southward of the Streights first Mouth, and were gotten to the Souther- mott Entrance," near the Sumatra Shore : but Captain Lacy, 'ho chose to go the old Way, made sail again to the Northward, and Ki passed nearer the Malacca Shore by the icaporc, the way we went before. His was also the best * nearest way : But Captain Weldon was willing to satisfy Curiosity, and try a new Passage : which we got imugh, though wc had but little Depth of Water : and this Lntrance we past is called Brewer's Streights. Brewer's Streights are sometimes passed by small Ships, that sail from Batavia to Malacca, because for them it is ' Tbnmti ibe Imgg* and Rhio Archipeliit[oe4. 39 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Af- a natrfrz Cut, thin to rjn so far as Pulo Tiinaon, or the '^^-^ Strc:ghts of Scncaponc. In this Channel, though in some Places we found but 1 4 or 15 Foot Water, yet the Bottom was soft Oaze: and :t lies so among Islands, that there cannot go a great Sea. Captain Weldon had also a Dutchman aboard who had been this way, and he pro- fessing to know the Channel, encouraged our Captaun to try it, which we eflPected very well, though sometimes we had but little more Water than we drew. This made us make but an easy Sail, and ther ef or e we were 7 or 8 Days before we arrived at Malacca; but Captain Lacy was there 2 or 3 Days before us. Here we first heard of the Death of Constant Falcon, for whom Captain Brewster seemed to be much concerned. There also we found, besides several Dutch Sloops, and our Companion Captain Lacy, an English Vessel of 35 or 40 Tuns. This Vessel was bought by one Captain Johnson, who was sent by the Governor of Bencouli, in a small Sloop, to trade about the Island of Sumatra for Pepper, but Captain Johnson being killed, the Sloop was brought hither by one Mr. Wells. Being thus insensibly fallen into the mention of this Captain Johnson ; and intending to defer what little I have to say of Malacca, till my coming thither again from Achin, I shall bestow the rest of this Chapter in speaking of this Man's Tragedy, and other Occurrences relating to it, which though of no great Moment in themselves, yet the Circumstances I shall have occasion to relate with them may be of use to the giving some small light into the State of the opposite Coast of Sumatra, which was the Scene of what I am going to speak of: for though I shall have other occasion to speak of Achin and Bencouli, yet I shall not have Opportunity to say any thing of this Part of that Island, opposite to Malacca, unless I do it here. To go on therefore with his Story, it seems Captain Johnson was part Owner of the small Bencouli Sloop: but thinking it too small for his turn, he came to Malacca, intending to buy a larger Sloop of the Dutch, if he could light of a Bargain. He had the best Part of a Thousand 40 OF CAPT. JOHNSON AND MR. WELLS Dollars in Spanish Money aboard, for which one may purchase a good Sloop here : for the Dutch, as I have '**' before observed, do often buy Proe-bottoms for a small Matter, of the Mahiyans, especially of the People of Jihore, and convert them into Sloops, cither for their own use, or to scU. Of these sort of Vessels therefore the Dutchmen of Malacca have plenty, and can aflfbrd good Penny-worths ; and doubtless it was for this Reason that Captain Johnson afflc hither to purchase a Sloop. Here he met with a Bargain, not such a Proe-buttom reformed, but an old ill-shaped thing, yet such a one as pleased him. The Dutchman who sold him this Vessel, told him withal, -that the Government did not allow any such Dealings rith the Er^lish, though they might wink at it : and 'm therefore the safest Way for them both to keep out trouble, would be to run over to the other Side of Strcighis, lo a Town called Bcncalis, on Sumatra; pherc they might safely buy and sell, or exchange without ' Notice taken of them. Giptain Johnson accepting : Offer, they sailed both together over to Bencalis,' a [alayan Town on that Coast, commanding the Country "Out it. There they came to an Anchor, and Captain Johnson paying the Price agreed on for the Vessel, he had her delivered to him. The Dutchman immediately returned over to Malacca again, leaving Captain Johnson with 2 Vessels under his Command, viz. the Sloop that he brought from Bcncouli, and this new-b<iught Vessel. ^"be Bcncouli Sloop he sent into a large River hanl by, I trade with the Malayans f*>r Pepper, under the Com- and of Mr. Wells. He was no Seaman ; but a pretty Kclligcnt Person, that came first out of England as a ' 4dtcr, to serve the East-India 0>mpany In the Island at* Helena. He liv'd sometime very meanly in that ^tland, but having an aspiring Mind, he left that poor, but healthy Place, to serve the Company at Bcncouli; which though it is accounted the most unhealthy Place of «ny that we trade to, yet the hopes of Preferment * Baofkaii. oa ibe mwni shore- It must not be confuseil with bcncouli ' ta) oa the «cM mast, wlicrc Dainpier served a> gunnci. 4> CAPTAIN DAMPIER^ VOYAGES A9 *r.gig*:i h^ to r^sD:,'Jc tii-fas-. After socne say there, '^-^^ he »« sent with. Cijiafn Jocistjci to asszst him in this V^yr ExpcditToc; 3<re beczsse he could use lus Pen than hi Hands -n Sea Scrrtce- He had 3 or 4 raw Stamen Trith h:m to work tbc Sloop up into the River. Captain Johnson staved near Bencalxs to fit his new Vessel : for w;th other Necessaries she wanted a new Boltsprit, which he intended to cut here^ having a Gu|)enter with him for that purpose ; as also to repair and fit her to his Mind. He had also a few other raw Seamen, but such as would have made better Landmen, they having served the King of Siam as Soldiers: and they were but lately come from thence with the French, who were forced to leave that Country. But here in the Indies our English arc forced for want of better, to make use of any Seamen such as they can get, and indeed our Merchants are often put hard to it for want of Seamen. Here are indeed Lascars or Indian Seamen enough to be hired ; and these they often make use of: yet they always covet an English- man or 2 in a Vessel to assist them. Not but that these Lascars are some of them indifferent good Sailors, and might do well enough : but an Englishman will be accounted more faithful, to be employed on matters of Moment ; beside the more free Conversation that may be expected from them, during the Term of the Voyage. So that though oft-times their Englishmen are but ordinary Sailors, yet they are promoted to some Charge of which they could not be so capable any where but in the l^ast-Indies. These Seamen would be in a manner wholly useless in Europe, where we meet with more frequent and hard Storms, but here they serve indifferent well, especially to go and come with the Monsoons; but enough of that. Mr. Wells being gone to purchase Pepper, Capt. Johnson went ashore about 5 or 6 Leagues from Bencalis Town with his Carpenter, to cut a Boltsprit ; there being there Plenty of Timber Trees fit for his purpose. He soon chose one to his Mind, and cut it down. He and his Carpenter wrought on it the first and second Days without 4a ^KXiPT. femrsoN killed by Malayans ^^BlAnlestation. The third Day they were both set upon by . ^^K Band of armed Malayans, who killed them both. In the ' ^^Kvcning the Sailors who were left almard, Irji^kt out for ^^mcir Commander to come off: but Night approached ^^pithout seeing or hearing from him. This put them in ^^■pmc doubt of his Safety ; for they were sensible enough, ^■dui the Malayans that inhabited thereabouts were very ' treacherous: as indeed all of them are, especially those who have but little Commerce with Strangers : and therefore all BIc ought to be very careful in dealing with them, so give them no Advantage ; and then they may trade mough. 'here were but 4 Seamen on board Captain Johnson's 1. These being terrified by the absence of their Corn- ier, and suspecting the Truth, were now very appre- ve of their own Safeties. They charged their Guns, »i.u kept themselves on their Guard, expecting to be a--!»aulted by the Malayans. They had 2 Blunderbusses, and 5 ftr 6 Muskets: each Man took one in his Hand, with a Caduce ' -box at his Waste, and looked out sharp for fear of any Kncmy. While they were thus on their Guard, ^^(be Malayans in 6 tw 8 Canoas came very silent to attack ^HAc Stoop. They were about 40 or 50 Men, armed with ^^Bjuices and Cressets. The darkness of the Night favoured VB^icir Designs, and they were even aboard before the Seamen perceived them. Then these began to fire, and the Enemy dancd their Lances aboard, and boarding the Vessel, they cntoW her over the Pmw, The Seamen resolutely defended her, and drove them over-board again. Of the 4 Seamen 2 were desperately wounded in the lirst attack. The layans took fresh Courage and entered again ; and the 1 Seamen who were not wounded, betook themselves to Quarters* in the Steerage; and there being Loop- idIcs to fire out at, they repulsed the Malayans again. thctn into ihcir Canoas. Their Bellies being now * Undrr ilie poofi, Tbe forward bulkhead of the cabin was tccncrnlly Md f6( mntLeu, ta that a few men suuidinK wiihin might clear the vdcck ia drcnttuUiicct timUar to thai ducribcd. 43 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. pretty full, they returned ashore without hopes of conqucr- 1689 jj^g ^j^g Sloop. The poor Seamen were still in fear, and kept watch all Night ; intending to sell their Lives as dear as they could, if they had been attacked again. For they might not, neither did they expect Quarter from the Salvage Malayans : but they were no more assaulted. These two that were wounded dyed in a short Time. The next Day the 2 Seamen got up their Anchor, and run as nigh the Town of Bencalis as they could, it may be within half a Mile. There they anchored again, and made Signs for the People to come on Board. It was not long before the Shabander or chief Magistrate of the Town came off: to him they told all their Misfortunes, and desired him to protect them, because they were not of sufficient Strength to hold out against another Attack. The Shabander seemed very sorry for what had happened, and told them withal, that he could not help what was past, for that the People that did it were wild unruly Men, not subject to Government, and that it was not in his Power to suppress them : but as long as they lay there some of his Men should lye aboard to secure the Ship ; and he in the mean time would send a Canoa to their Consort Mr. Wells, to give him an account how Things went. Accord- ingly he left 10 or 12 of his own Malayans aboard the Bark, and sent a Letter written by the Seamen to Mr. Wells; who was, as I have said, dealing with the Natives for Pepper, in a River at some distance. It was 2 or 3 Days before Mr. Wells came to them. He had not then received the Letter, and therefore they suspected the Shabander of falsehood ; though his Men were yet very kind, and serviceable to the 2 Seamen. Mr. Wells had heard nothing of their Disasters, but returned for want of Trade ; at least such a full Trade as he expected. For tho* here is Pepper growing, yet not so much as might allure any one to seek after it : for the Dutch are so near, that none can come to trade among them but by their Permission. And though the Natives themselves were never so willing to trade with any Nation, as indeed they are, yet the Dutch could soon hinder it, 44 Pfa the f their PEPPER TRADE IN THESE PARTS 'en by destroying them, if in order to it they should set :m»clv€S to produce such Pepper. Such small quantities ' they do *t present raise up, or procure from other parts the Island, is lickt by the Dutch, or by their Friends of Bencalis for them: for the Town of Bencalis being the principal of these Parts, and so nigh Malacca, as only parted by the narrow Sea or Streights, 'tis visited by the Dutch in their small Vessels, and seems wholly to depend on a Trade with that Nation, not daring to Trade with any bcadcs : and I judge it b by the Friendship of the Town, that the Dutch drive a small Trade for Pepper in these pu-u, and by it also vend any of their own Com- modities: and these also trading with their Neighbours to the Country, do bring their Commodities hither, where le Dutch come for them. The People of Bencalis there- fore, though they arc Malayans, as the rest of the Country, yet they arc civil enough, engaged thereto by Trade : for the more Trade, the more Civility ; and on the contrary, 'ic less Trade the more Barbarity and Inhumanity. For 'rade hfts « strong Influence upon all People, who have Kjnd the sweet of it, bringing with it so many of the Convenicnrics of Life as it does. And I believe that even the poor Americans, who have not yet tasted the Sweetness of It, might be allured to it by an honest and just Com- merce : even such of ihcm as do yet seem to covet no more than a bare Subsistence of meat and drink, and a clout to cover their Nakedness. That large Continent hath yet Millions of Inhabitants, both on the Mexican and Peruvian puti, who arc still ignorant of Trade : and they would be food of it, did they once Experience it ; though at the present they live happy enough, by enjoying such Fruits of the Earth as Nature hath bestowed on those Places, where their Lot is fallen: and it may be they arc happier now, they may hereafter be, when more known to the .varitioui World. For with Trade they will be in danger _f meeting with Oppression : Men not being content with a free Traffick, and a just and reasonable Gain, especially in these remote Countries : but they must have the Current run altogether in their own Channel, though to the depriv- 45 CAPTAIX DAMPIER'S VOYAGES A3f. ing the pxr Nidr^s zhej deal with, of thdr natural '^ Liberr/ : as -J all Nlariini were to be ruled by their Laws. The Islands of S:i:natra and Jan can suffidently witness this : the Dutch ha-s^ng in a manner ingrost all the Trade of those, and sereral of the nexghbooring Countries to thcniselvcs : not that they arc able to supply the Natives with a quarter of what they want, but beciuse they would have all the produce of them at their own disposal : Yet even in this they are short, and may be still more disap- pointed of the Pepper Trade if other People would seek for it. For the greatest part of the Island of Sumatra propagates this Plant, and the Natives would readily comply with anv who would come to trade with them, notwith- standing the great Endeavours the Dutch make against it : for this Island is so laige, populous, and productive of Pepper, that the Dutch are not able to draw all to them- selves. Indeed this place about Bencalis, is in a manner at their Devotion ; and for ought I know, it was through a Design of being revenged on the Dutch that Captain Johnson lost his Life. I find the Malayans in general are implacable Enemies to the Dutch ; and all seems to spring from an earnest desire they have of a free Trade, which is restrained by them, not only here, but in the Spice-Islands, and in all other places where they have any Power. But 'tis freedom only must be the means to incourage any of these remote People to Trade ; especially such of them as are industrious, and whose Inclinations are bent this way ; as most of the Malayans are, and the major- part of the People of the East-Indies, even from the Cape of Good Hope Eastward to Japan, both Continent and Islands. For though in many places they are limited by the Dutch, English, Danes, &c. and restrained from a free Trade with other Nations, yet have they continually shewn what an uneasiness that is to them. And how dear has this Restraint cost the Dutch ? when yet neither can they with all their Forts and Guard-Ships secure the Trade wholly to themselves, any more than the Barlaventa Fleet can secure the Trade of the West-Indies to the Spaniards : but enough of this matter. 46 AL'THOR DEPARTS FROM MALACCA You have heard before that Mr. Wells came with his SloTip to Bencalis, to the great Joy of the two Men that were yet alive in Captain Johnson's Vessel. These two Somen were so just, that they put all Captain Johnson's Paper* and Money into one Chest, then lockt it and put the Key of it into another Chest ; and locking that, flung the Key of it into the Sea : and when Mr. Wells came aboard, they offered him the Command of both Vessels. He seemingly refused it, saying, that he was no Seaman, and could not manage either of them : yet by much importunity he accepted the Command of them, or at least undertook the account of what was in the Sloop, engaging to give a faithful account of it to Governour Bloom. They were alt now so weakened, that they were but ju5t enough to sail one of the Vessels. Therefore they sent tu the Shabandcr of Bencalis, to desire some of his Men, to help sail the Sloops over to Malacca, but he refused it. Then they offered to sell one of them for a small Matter, but neither would he buy. Then they offlaxd to give him the smallest : To that he answered, that he did not dare to accept of her, for ft-ar of the Dutch. Then Mr. Wells and his Crew concluded to take the Pepper and all the Stores out of the small Vessel, and bum her, and go away with the other to Malacca. This they put in Execution, and presently went away, and opening Captain Johnson's Chest they found 2 or 30a Dollan in Money. This with all his Writings, and what el>e they found of value, Mr. Wells took in his Possession. In a very short Time they got over to Malacca. There they stayed expecting the coming of some English Ship, to get a Pilot to navigate the Sloop : for neither of them would undertake to navigate her further. Captain Lacy coming thither first, he spared Mr. Wells his chief Mate to navigate her to Achin : When we came thither they were ready to Sail, and went away two or three Days before us. To return therefore to our own Voyage, Captain Weldon having finished his Business at Malacca, we sailed again, steering ttrwards Achin, where he designed to touch in his way to Fort St. George. We overtook Mr. Wells ~ 47 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. about 35 Leagues short of Achin against the River Pas! 1689 jonca : and shortly after we both arrived at Achin, anchored in the Road, about the beginning of March 11 Here I took my leave of Captain Weldon, and of j Friend Mr. Hall, who went with us to Tonquin, went ashore, being very weak with my Flux, as I had all the Voyage. Captain Weldon offered me any Kin( that lay in his Power at Fort St. George, if I woul< with him thither : but I chose rather to stay here, hai some small Acquaintance, than to go in that weak tion, to a Place where I was wholly unknown. But Hall went with Captain Weldon to Fort St. George, from thence in a short Time returned to England in tVilliamson of London. 48 f I 1 f I « I ff I m ^ * i 1 i I Ctmmtry t/ Jshin dturiM : tti Sitturitn and Extent. Afaraf, nJ At mighUuring ttln »f Way a»i G*m/x, b'r. ma^ng mtrti Ckan»th nJ the RttiJ tf Athin. Th Stif #/ iht Cmwm i Trm «W Fntiti ; ^rtkuhrly ikt Mangauan and Pmm^-mtif. Tfuir RoiH, Hrrb,^ atid Dmgt, th H/ri Gangm w &«j, aiul Cumfhirt : the Prpprr «f Sumatra, and GtU *f Achin. Tlu BtMiti^ FttfJ aud Fiih. The Pe*f,le^ their Temper, Habiti, BmlUiip. City *f Atkin, a W Tradn. The Huihandrj, Fitherj, Cmrpetttert and Flying Prtei. The Aftney Chengen, Cain and ITnghh. Of thr Gcld-Min^. The Merihann »A* ctme li Achin : and if the Chineu Camp w Fair. The watking med at Achin, A Chineu Rtnfgadc. Puttithmtntt fir Theft and ithtr Crimei. The Gtvemmeut tf Achin ; tf the Queen, Onnteyt or SMn i and tf the Slavery »f tht Pe^le. The State kept iy the Eatlem Primn. A Civil /far here uf»n the chtiee »f a new Qmetn. The A, and the tther English in a fright, upon a seizure made tf a M^r't Shift kf an EngSih Captain. The IVeatker, Fhtdi, and Heal at Achin. BEING now arrived at Achin again, I think it not an. amin to give the Reader some short account of '^^ what Observation I made of that City and Country. Thi^ Kingdom ii the largest and best peopled of ■■:any »fiull "ncs that are up and down the Isle of Sumatra ; ind it makes the North West end of that Island. It reaches Eastwani from that N. W. point of the I<iland, a great way ■ long the Shore, towards the Streights of Malacca, for iSout 50 or 60 Leagues. But from Diamond point, which ibout 4O Leagues from Achin. towards the Borders of ii'^ic Kingdom, the Inhabitants, though belonging to Achin E in lew Subjection to it. Of these I can say but little ; ither do I know the Bounds of this Kingdom, either |VOL. II. 49 o CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. within Land, or along the West Coast. That West Side of '^9 the Kingdom is high and mountainous : as is generally the rest of the West Coast of the whole Island. The Point also of Achin, or extremity of the Island, is high Land : but Achin, it self, and the Country to the Eastward, is lower, not altogether destitute of small Hills, and every where of a moderate Heighth, and a Champion Country, naturally very fit for Cultivation. There is one Hill more remarkable than ordinary, especially to Seamen. The English call it, the Golden* Mount : but whether this Name is given it by the Natives, or only by the English, I know not. 'Tis near the N. W. end of the Island ; and Achin stands but 5 or 6 Mile from the Bottom of it. 'Tis very large at the Foot, and runs up smaller towards the Head ; which is raised so high, as to be seen at Sea 30 or 40 Leagues. This was the first Land that we saw coming in our Proe from the Nicobar Islands, mentioned in my former Voyage. The rest of the Land, though of a good Heighth, was then undiscerned by us, so that this Mountain appeared like an Island in the Sea; which was the Reason why our Achin Malayans took it for Pulo Way. But that Island, though pretty high Champion Land, was invisible, when this Golden Mount appeared so plain, though as far distant as that Island. Besides what belong to Achin upon the Continent, there are also several Islands under its Jurisdiction, most of them uninhabited ; and these make the Road of Achin. Among them is this Pulo Way, which is the Eastermost of a Range of Islands, that lye off the N. W. end of Sumatra. It b also the largest of them, and is inhabited by Malefactors, who are banisht thither from Achin. This with the other Islands of this Range, lye in a semi-circular Form, of about 7 Leagues Diameter. Pulo Gomez is another large Island about 20 Mile West from Pulo Way, and about 3 Leagues from the N. W. point of Sumatra. Between Pulo Gomez and the Main are 3 or 4 other small Islands; yet with Channels of a sufficient breadth between them, for Ships to » The Queen's Peak. -50 '—THE SOIL HERE ^^" pott through ; and they have very deep Water. All Ships ak. bound from Achin to the Westward, or coming from '^ thence to Achin, go in or out through one or other of these J Channels: and because Shipping comes hither from the ■ Coast of Surrat, one of these Channels which Is deeper than H the rest, is called the Surrat Channel. Between Pulo H Gomez and Pulo Way, in the bending of the Circle, there I ire other small Islands, the chief of which is called Pulo 1 RoodoL This is a small round high Island, not above 2 or 3 Mile in Circumference. It lies almost in the extremity of the bcndine on the N. E. part of the Circle, but nearer Pulo Way than Pulo Gomez. There are large deep Channels on either side, but the most frequented is the Channel on the West side. Which is called the Bengal Channel, because it Ujoks towards that Bay ; and Ships coming from thence, M from the Coast of Coromandcl, pass in and out this way. I Between Pulo Way and the main of Sumatra, is another I Channel uf J or 4 Leagues wide : which is the Channel for I .Ships that go from Achin to the Streights of Malacca, or I any Country to the Kast of those Slreights, and vice versa. I There is good riding in all this Semi-circular Bay between I the Islands and Sumatra: but the Road for all Ships that I -romc to Achin is near the Sumatra Shore, within all the I Islands. There they anchor at what distances they please, I according to the Monsoons or Seasons of the Year. There I !i a small navigable River comes out into the Sea, by which ' ^hips transport their Commodities in smaller Vessels up to ihe City. The Mouth of this River is 6 or 7 leagues from I'ulo Kondo, and 3 or 4 from Pulo Way, and near as many . fr'im Pulo Gomez. The Islands arc pretty high Champion ■ land, the Mold black or yellow, the Soil deep and fat» I producing large tall Trees, fit for many uses. There are I Broolcs of Water on the two great Islands of Way and I CKuxicz, and seven! sorts of wild Animals ; especially wild I Ho^s in abundance. ' The Mold of this Continent is different according to the ratunl position of it. The Mountains arc rocky, especially eSijk towsrdt the West Coast, yet most that I have seen seems . cu hare < superficUl covering of Earth, naturally producing ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Shrubs, small Trees, or pretty good Grass. The small J689 Hills are most of them cloathed with Woods ; the Trees whereof seem by their growth to spring from a fruitful Soil : The Champion Land, such as I have seen, is some black, some grey, some reddish, and all of a deep Mold. But to be very particular in these Things, especially in all my Travels, is more than I can pretend to : though it may be I took as much notice of the difference of Soil as I met with it, as most Travellers have done, having been bred in my Youth in Somersetshire, at a place called East Coker ^ near Yeovil or Evil : in which Parish there is as great Variety of Soil, as I have ordinarily met with any where, viz. black, red, yellow, sandy, stony, clay, morass or swampy, &c. I had the more reason to take notice of this, because this Village in great measure is let out in small Leases for Lives of 20, 30, 40, or 50 Pound per An. under Coll. Helliar* the Lord of the Mannor : and most, if not all these Tenants, had their own Land scattering in small pieces, up and down several sorts of Land in the Parish : so that every one had some piece of every sort of Land, his black Ground, his Sandy, Clay, &c. some of 20, 30, or 40 Shillings an Acre, for some uses, and others not worth 10 Groats an Acre. My Mother being possest of one of these Leases, and having of all these sorts of Land, I came acquainted with them all, and knew what each sort would produce, (viz.) Wheat, Barley, Maslin,^ Rice, Beans, Peas, Oats, Fetches,* Flax, or Hemp : in all which I had a more than usual Knowledge for one so young ; taking a particular delight in observing it : but enough of this Matter. The Kingdom of Achin has in general a deep Mold : It is very well watered with Brooks and small Rivers, but none navigable for Ships of Burden. This of Achin admits not of any but small Vessels. The Land is some part very Woody, in other Places Savannah ; the Trees are of divers sorts, most unknown to me by Name. The Cotton and * East Coker : Dampier*s native village. " Colonel Helliar, or Hellier, or Helyar, was the head of a wealthy Somersetshire family then resident at East Coker. * Maslin, a mixture of wheat and rye. Rice must be a slip for Rye. * Vetches. 52 CAPTAIX DA\rPIER^ VOYAGES Onngc or a Lemon, rrcnizi !i»:c —.'v-mz i:^ siiT" Pai ' -Lj ^cs. TTis of a pleasant ri ocber parts of the ? acrounted the best. x^rcr Orscrsas, azid they are so . A "- 1- =i-:rr isci:;=ei« tfrai F-g -"^^ >fe:i arrr rhem firom hence -Tii, i:ni *-'««'* l^jsenrs of them to their ^ rcrer Frrds ssziixned here, are most Tb; inii^Lie Rr^ns :t rrs Gxmrrr arc Yams and P:cir:e5, ice. but tbcEr drxfisc bread-kmd is Rice- The Ni£-ris hiT^ litilT rixursd scci^ Quantxries of this Grain, ini ~^^z Ttryi-^i m-dt ra^jrt were rher so disposed, the Lini Sii::^ 51: fr-itrii. Tier have here a sort of Herb •:t Pli=t cillivi GxTga^ or Baog.^ I never saw any but ones, mi tiit wis xz sosie discince trom me. It appeared to nie like Hesij-, mi I ibought it had been Hemp, till I was :oIi to the cximry. It is reported of this Plant, that if it is irLr\isei In any Liquor, it will stupify the Brains of any Person that drinks thereof ; but it operates diversly, according to the Constitution of the Person. Some it keeps sleepy, some merry, putting them into a Laughing- fit, and others it makes mad : but after 2 or 3 Hours they come to themselves again. I never saw the EflFects of it on any Person, but have heard much Discourse of it. What other use this Plant mav serve for I know not : but I know it is much esteemed here, and in other Places too whither it is transported. This Country abounds also with Medicinal Drugs and Herbs, and with variety of Herbs for the Pot. The chief of their Drugs is Camphire, of which there are Quantities found on this Island, but most of it either on the Borders of this Kingdom to the Southward, or more remote still, without the Precincts of it. This that is found on the Island Sumatra is commonly sent to Japan to be refined, and then brought from thence pure, and transported whither the Merchants please afterwards. I know that ^ Bhang : Hemp. Its exhibition is very various. As a rule it induces violent laughter. 54 ONIONS— GOLD— LAND ANIMALS here *rc s«:veral sorts of Medicinaf Herbs made use of by :he Nitivet, who go often a simpling, seeming to under- "•' sand their Virtues much, and malting great use of them : Sut thb being wholly out of my Sphere, I can give no iccount of them ; and though here are plenty of Pot- Hcrbt, yet I know the Names of none, but Onions, of «hi£h they have great abundance, and of a very good sort, Init small. There are many other very profitable Commodities on this Island : but some of them are more peculiar to other parts of ii than Achin, especially Pepper. All the Island »bounds with that Spice, except only this North West- end; at least so much of it, as is comprehended within the Kingdom of Achin. Whether this defect is through the negligence or laziness of these People, I know not. Gold also is found, by report, in many parts of this Isbuid : but the Kingdom of Achin is at present most plentifully stored with ii. Neither does any place in the East-Indies, that I know of, yield such Quantities of it as this Kingdom. 1 have never been at Japan, and therefore can make no Estimate of the great Riches of that King- dom ; but here 1 am certain there is abundance of it. The Ljind Animals of this Country arc Deer, Hogs, Ekfhantt, Goats, Butlocks, Buflntloes, Horses, Porcupines, Monkeys, Squirrils, Guanoes, Lizards, Snakes, &c. Here are also abundance of Ants of several sorts, and Wood-lice, called by the English in the East-Indies White Ants. The Elephants that I saw here were all ume : yet 'tis reported there arc some wild ; but 1 judge not many, if any at all. In some places there are plenty of Hogs ; they are all wild, and commonly very poor. At some times of the Year, when the wild Fruits fall from the Trees, they are indif- ferent fat, or at least fleshy: and then they are sweet and good : they »rc very numerous ; and whether for that msoo, or scarcity of Food, it is very rare to find them fei. i'hc Goats are not very many, neither are there aaay Butlocks: but the Savannahs swarm with Buffaloes, bdon^ng (o some or other of the Inhabitants, who milk tkm and eat them ; but don't work them, so far as 1 saw. S5 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. The Horses of this Country arc but small, yet sprightly ; 1689 2nd sometimes they are transported hence to the Coast of Coromaodel. The Porcupines and Squirrels are accounted good Food by the English ; but how they arc esteemed by the Natives I know not. The Fowls of this Country arc Dunghil Fowls and Ducks; but I know of no other tame Fowls they have. In the Woods there are many sorts of wild^Fowls, viz. Maccaws, Parrots, Parakites, Pigeons and Doves of 3 or 4 sorts. There arc plenty of other small Birds; but I can say nothing of them. The Rivers of this Country aflFord plenty of Fish. The Sea also supplies divers sorts of very good Fish, (viz.) Snooks, Mullets, Mudfish, Eels, Stingrays, which I shall describe in the Bay of Campeachy, Ten-pounders, Old Wives, Cavallies, Crawfish, Shrimps, &c. The Natives erf" this Country are Malayans. They arc much the same People with those of Queda, Jihore, and other Places on the Continent of Malacca, speaking the same Malayan Language, with very little difference : and they are of the same Mahometan Religion, and alike in their haughty Humour and manner of living : so that they seem to have been originally the same People. They are People of a middle Stature, straight, and well shaped, and of a dark Indian Copper-Colour. Their Hair is black and lank, their Faces generally pretty long, yet graceful enough. They have black Eyes, middling Noses, thin Lips, and black Teeth, by the frequent use of Betle. They are very lazy, and care not to work or take pains. The poorer sort are addicted to Theft, and are often punished severely for it. They are otherwise good-natured in general, and kind enough to Strangers. The better Sort of them wear Caps fitted to their Heads, of red or other coloured Woollen Cloath, like the Crown of a Hat without any Brims ; for none of the Eastern People use the Complement of uncovering their Heads when they meet, as we do. But the general Wear for all Sorts of People is a small Turban, such as the Mindanaians wear, described in the 12th Chapter of my 56 HOUSES— FOOD— CITY OF ACHIN t'lB-mcr Volume, page 334. They have small Breeches, And the better Sort will have a Piece n( Silk thrown loosely ' over their Shoulders; but the Poor go naked from the Waste upwards. Neither have they the use of Stockings and Shoes, but a sort of Sandals are worn by the better Sort. ^ Their Houses arc built on Posts, as those of Mindanao, [ they live much after the same Fashion : but by Reason their Gold Mines, and the frequent Resort of Strangers, y are richer, and live in greater Plenty. Their common mod is Rice, and the better Sort have Fowls and Fish, with hich the Markets arc plentifully stored, and sometimes "".loc4 Flesh, all which is drest very savourly with ■pper and Garlick, and tinctured yellow with Turmerick, make tc pleasant to the Eye, as the East-Indians gene- \y love to have their Food look yellow : neither do they ;nt good Achats or Sauces to give it a Relish. The City of Achin is the chief in all this Kingdom, is seated on the Banks of a Kiver, near the N. W. end of Island, and about two Miles from the Sea. This Town of 7 cr 8000 Houses, and in it there are always a cat many Merchant-strangers, viz. English, Dutch, Danes, iJTtugue^ Chinese, Guzarats, &c. The Houses of this Ctiy arc generally larger than those t saw at Mindanao, and better furnished with Household Goods. The City hu no WalUt nor so much as a Ditch about it. It has a great Number of Mosques, generally square built, and oivcTcd with Pantile, but neither high nor large. Every Morning a Man made a great Noise from thence : but I »w n<» Turrets or Steeples, for them to climb up into for Purpose, as they have generally in Turky. The n has a l:irge Palace here, built handsomely with ;ooe: but I could not get into the Inside of it. *Tis said are some great Guns about it, four of which are of and arc said to have been sent hither as a Present our K. James the first. The chief Trades at Achin are Carpenters, Blacksmiths, Goldsmiths, Fishermen, and Money-changers : but the Country-people live either on Breeding Heads of Cattle, 57 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. but most for their own Use, or Fowls, especially they who 1689 liyg ng^ r^e Gty, which they send weekly thither to sell : others plant Roots, Fruits, &c and <^ late they have sown pretty large Fields of Rice. This thrives here well enough ; but they are so proud, that it b against their Stomach to work : neither do they themselves much trouble their Heads about it, but leave it to be managed by their Slaves ; and they were the Slaves brought lately l^ the English and Danes from the Coast of Coromandel, in the Time of a Famine there, I spoke of before, who first brought this Sort of Husbandry into such Request among the Achinese. Yet neither does the Rice they have this way supply one Quarter of their Occasions, but they have it brought to them from their Neighbouring Countries. The Fishermen are the richest working People : I mean such of them as can purchase a Net : for thereby they get great Profit ; and this Sort of Imployment is managed also by their Slaves. In fair Weather you shall have eight or ten great Boats, each with a Sain or haling Net : and when they see a Sholc of Fish, they strive to encompass them with these Nets, and all the Boats that are near assist each other to drag them ashore. Sometimes they draw ashore this way 50, 60, or 100 large Fish, as big as a Man's Leg, and as long : and then they rejoyce mightily, and scamper about, making a great Shout. The Fish is presently sent to the Market in one of their Boats, the rest looking out again for more. Those who fish with Hook and Line, go out in small Proes, with about one or two Slaves in each Proe. These also get good Fish of other Sorts, which they carry Home to their Masters. The Carpenters use such Hatchets as they have at Mindanao. They build good Houses after their Fashion : and they are also ingenious enough in building Proes, making very pretty ones, especially of that Sort which are Flying-Proes ; which are built long, deep, narrow, and sharp, with both Sides alike, and Outlagers on each Side, the Head and Stern like other Boats. They carry a great Sail, and when the Wind blows hard, they send a Man or two to sit at the Extremity of the Windward Outlager, to 58 ^^■WOMEN MONEY-CHANGERS ^HPBe Vessel. They build also some Vessels of lo or 10 Tuns Bunhco, to trade from one Place to another : but I think their greatest Ingenuity is in building their Flying- ~ ; which are made very smooth, kept neat and clean, Bd will sail very well: for which Reason they had that ffame given them by the English. There arc but few Blacksmiths In this Town, neither they very skilful at their Trade. The Goldsmiths are nmonly Strangers, yet some of the Achinese themselves how to work Metals, tho' not very well. The Money-changers arc here, as at Tonquin, most Women. ThcK lit in the Markets and at Corners of the Streets, with leaden Money called Cash, which is a Name that is gene- rally given to small Money in all these Countries : but the Cath here is neither of the same Metal, nor Value with that at Tonquin ; for that is Copper, and this is Lead, or Block-Tin, such as will bend about the Finger. They have but two sorts of Coin of their own ; the least sort I *■ this Leaden Money call'd Cash, and 'tis the same with lat they called Pelties at Bantam. Of these, 1500 make , Mess which is their other sort of Coin, and is a small Ilin Piece of Gokl, stampt with Malayan Letters on each It it in Value 15 Pence English, 16 Mess make a pale, which here is 20 Shillings English, 5 Tale make a al, a Weight so called, and 20 Bancal make a Catty, r Weight. But the Gold Coin seldom holds Weight, r you shall sometimes have 5 Tale and 8 Mess over, go » make a Pecul, and tho" 1500 Cash is the Value of a Men, yet these rise and fail at the Discretion of the Maaey-changcrs : for sometimes you shall have looo Cash for a Mess: but ihcy are kept usually between these two Number*; seldom less than lOOO, and never more than I 500. But to proceed with these Weights, which they use cither for Money or Goods, 100 Catty make a Pecul, which i* 13Z Pound English Weight. Three hundred Catty is a Bahar, which is 396 Pound English Weight ; hut in some Plac«, as at Bencouli, a Bahar is near 5CX] English Weight. Spint^ Pieces of Eight go here also, and they are valued ascordiog to the Pletiiy or Scarcity of them. Sometimes a 59 i CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Piece of Eight goes but for 4 Mess, sometimes for 4 and a '^ half, sometimes 5 Mess. They coin but a small Quantity of their Gold ; so much as may serve for their ordinary Occasions in their Traffick one with another. But as the Merchant, when he receives large Summs, always takes it by Weight, so they usually pay him unwrought Gold, and Quantity for Quantity : the Merchants chuse rather to receive this, than the coined Gold ; and before their leaving the Country will change their Messes for uncoined Gold : perhaps because of some Deceits used by the Natives in their Coining. This Gold they have from some Mountain a pretty way within Land from Achin, but within their Dominions, and rather near to the West Coast than the Streights of Malacca. I take Golden Mount, which I spoke of before, to lye at no great Distance from that of the Mines; for there is very high Land all thereabouts. To go thither they set out Eastward, towards Passange Jonca, and thence strike up into the Heart of the Country. I made some Inquiry con- cerning their getting Gold, and was told, that none but Mahometans were permitted to go to the Mines : That it was both troublesome and dangerous to pass the Mountains, before they came thither; there being but one way, and that over such steep Mountains, that in some Places they were forced to make use of Ropes, to climb up and down the Hills. That at the Foot of these Precipices there was a Guard of Soldiers, to see that no uncircumcised Person should pursue that Design, and also to receive Custom of those that past either forward or backward. That at the Mines it was so sickly that not the half of those that went thither did ever return again ; tho' they went thither only to traffick with the Miners, who live there, being seasoned : that these who go thither from the City stayed not usually above 4 Months at the Mines, and were back again in about 6 Months from their going out. That some there made it their constant Imployment to visit the Miners once every Year : for after they are once seasoned, and have found the Profit of that Trade, no Thoughts of Danger can deter them from it : for I was credibly told, that these 60 GOODS BROUGHT FROM ABROAD > per cent, of whatever they carryed with there. I to the Miners: but they could not carry much by '^ n of the Badness of the ways. The rich Men never _ i thhhcr themseUts, but send their Slaves : and if 3 out of 6 return, they think they make a very profitable Journey for their Master, for these three are able to bring Home as much Gold as the Goods which all six carried out could purchase. The Goods that they carry thither are some 4m of Qoathing, and Liquor. They carry their Goods from the City b)- Siea, part of the way : Then they land somewhere about Passangc Jonca, and get Horses to carry their Cargo to the Foot of the Mountains. There they draw it up with Ropes, and if they have much Goods, one slip there with them, while ihe rest march to the Mines mth their Load ; and return again for the rest. I had this " '■-■ - from Captain Tyler, who lived at Achtn, and ■ Language of the Country very well. There was -h Renegado that used that Trade, but was always j: tp.l- Minn when 1 was here. At his Return to Achin he constantly frequented an English Punch-house, spending hi* Gold very freely, as I was told by the Master of the ' ! I was told also by all that I discoursed with about ,, that here they dig it nut of the Ground; and i.i-timcs they find pretty large Lumps, It 15 the Product of these Mines that draws so many Merchant? hither, for the Road is seldom without 10 or 15 -jil of Ships of several Nations. These bring all sort of cndibic Commodities, as Silks, Chints, Muzlins, Callicoes, Kicc, &c. and as to this last, a Man would admire to see ■vsat great Quantities of Ricc are brought hither by the 1-figlish, Dutch, Danes and Chinese : when any arrives, •■>: Commanders hire each a House to put their Goods in. The Silks, Muzlins, Callicoes, Opium, and such like rich ■ KKjda, they sell to the Guzurats, who arc the chief Men •^.*t keep Shops here; but the Rtcc, which is the Bulk of •r* Cargo, they usually retail, 1 have heard a Merchant »av, be has received 60, 70, and 80 /. a Day for Rice, when :i ha> been scarce; bat when there are many Sellers, then 40 or 50 Shillings worth in a Day ts a good Sale : for then 61 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES A}i, a Mess will buy 14 or 15 Bamboes of it: whereas when 1^ Rice is scarce, you will not have above 3 or 4 Bamboes for a Mess. A Bimboe is a small scaled Measure, containing, to the best of my Remembrance, not much above half a Gallon. Thus it rises and falls as Ships come hither. Those who sell Rice keep one constantly attending to measure it out; and the very Grandees themselves never keep a Stock before hand, but depend on the Market, and buy just when they have Occasion. They send their Slaves for what they want, and the poorer Sort, who have not a Slave of their own, will yet hire one to carry a Mess worth of Rice for them, though not one hundred Paces A-om their own Homes, scorning to do it themselves. Besides one to measure the Rice, the Merchants hire a Man to take the Money ; for here is some false Money, as Silver and Copper Mess gilt over: Besides, here are some true Mess much worn, and therefore not worth near their Value in Tale. The Merchants may also have occasion to receive 10 or 20 /. at a Time for other Commodities ; and this too be- sides those little Summs for Rice, he must receive by his Broker, if he will not be cheated ; for 'tis work enough to examine every Piece : and in receiving the Value of 10 /. in Mess, they will ordinarily be forc*d to return half or more to be chang'd ; for the Natives are for putting off bad Money, if possibly they can. But if the Broker takes any bad Money, 'tis to his own Loss. These Sort of Brokers are commonly Guzurats, and 'tis very necessary for a Merchant that comes hither, especially if he is a Stranger, to have one of them, for fear of taking bad or light Money. The English Merchants are very welcome here, and I have heard that they do not pay so much Custom as other Nations. The Dutch Free-men may trade hither, but the Company's Servants are dcny'd that Privilege. But of all the Merchants that trade to this City, the Chinese are the most remarkable. There are some of them live here all the Year long; but others only make annual Voyages hither from China. These latter come hither some time in June, about 10 or 12 Sail, and bring Abundance of Rice, 62 ■ cifftWA CAMP I several other Commodities. They take up Houses all ^ one inothcr, at the end of the Town, next the Sea : and ■ ; end of the City iS cali'd the China Camp, because they always quarter, and bring their Goods ashore thither to sell. In this Fleet come several Mechanicks, (irtz.) Carpenters, jiiyners. Painters, &c. These set them- »cItc» tmrnediatcly to work, making of Chests, Drawers, Cabinets, and all sorts of Chinese Toys ; which are no sooner finish 'd in their Working- houses, but they are lently set up in Shops and at the Doors to sale. So t for two Months or ten Weeks this Place is like a Fair, iJl of ^ops stuft with all sort of vendible Commodities, 1 People resorting hither to buy : and as their Goods I off", so they contract themselves into less Compass, and ' e tise of fewer Houses. But as their Business decreases, r Gaming among themselves increases ; for a Chinese, if he is not at work, had as licvc be without Victuals as with- out Gaming ; and they are very dexterous at it. If before their Goods arc all sold, they can light of Chapmen to buy their Ships, they will gladly sell them also, at least some of them, if any Merchant will buy ; for a Chinese is for selling every thing : and they who are so happy as to get ChapiDcn fur their own Ships, will return as Passengers with their Neighbours, leaving their Camp, as 'tis call'd, poor and naked, like other Parts of the City, till the next Year. They commonly go away about the latter end of "•rptember, and never fail to return again at the Season: irwi while they are here, they are so much followed, that "ven is but little Business stirring for the Merchants of *ny other Nations; all the Discourse then being of going .-4own to the Chitu Camp. Even the Europeans go thither their Diversion : the English, Dutch, and Danes, will to drink their Hoc-ciu, at some China Merchants ; who sells it ; for they have no tippling Houses. European Seamen return thence into the City drunk igh, hut the Chinese arc very sober themselves. The Achinesc seem not to be extraordinary good at Accounts, at the Banians or Guzurats are. They instruct their Youth in the knowledge of Lettcrsi, Malayan prin- CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. cipally, and I suppose in somewhat of AraUck, being all '^ Mahometans. They are here, as at Mindanao, very superstitious in washing and cleansing themselves from Defilements: and for that Reason they delight to live near the Rivers or Streams of Water. The River of Achin near the City is always full of People of both Sexes and all Ages. Some come on Purpose to wash themselves, for the Pleasure of being in the Water : which they so much delight in, that they can scarce leave the River without going first into it, if % they have any Business brings them near. Even the Sick are brought to the River to wash. I know not whether it is accounted good to wash in all Dis- tempers, but I am certain from my own Experience, it is good for those that have Flux, especially Mornings and Evenings, for which Reason you shall then see the Rivers fullest, and more especially in the Morning. But the most do it upon a Religious Account : for therein consists the chief Part of their Religion. There are but few of them resort daily to their Mosques; yet they are all stiff in their Religion, and so zealous for it, that they greatly rejoyce in making a Proselyte. I was told, that while I was at Tonquin, a Chinese inhabiting here turn*d from his Paganism to Mahometanism, and being circumcised, he was thereupon carry*d in great State through the City on an Elephant, with one crying before him, that he was turn*d Believer. This Man was calPd the Captain of the China Camp; for, as I was informed, he was placed there by his Country- men as the chief Factor or Agent, to negotiate their Aflfairs with the People of the Country. Whether he had dealt falsly, or was only envied by others, I know not : but his Country-men had so entangled him in Law, that he had been ruin'd, if he had not made use of this way to dis- ingage himself; and then his Religion protected him, and they could not meddle with him. On what Score the two English Runagadoes turn*d here, I know not. The Laws of this Country are very strict, and Offenders are punished with great Severity. Neither are there any Delays of Justice here ; for as soon as the offender is taken^ 64 PUNISHMENTS immediately brought before the Magistrate, who ^ pnaently heirs the Matter, and according as he finds it, so ' be either acquits, or orders Punishmeot to be infiicted oa the Pany immediately. Small offender* arc only wtiipt on the Back, which sort of Puoishmcot they call Chaubuck. A Thief for his first offence, has his rigbt Hand chopt off at the Wrist : for the second Offence off goes the other ; and sometimes instead of one of their Hands, one or both their Feet are cut off; and sometimes (tho' very rarely) both Hands and Feet. If after the Loss of one or both Hands or Feet, they still prove incorrigible, for they are many of them such very Rogues, and so arch, that they mil Meal with their Toes, then they are banish'd to Pulo Tfar, during their Lives: and if they get thence to the ■cy, u sometimes they do, they are commonly sent hack aio ; tho* sometimes ihcy get a License to stay. On Pulo Way there are none but this sort of Cattle : i tho' they all of them want one or both hands, yet they order Matters, that they can row very well, and do ny things to admintion, whereby they are able to get a livelihood : for if tfacy have no hands, they will get some- Vjdy or other to fasten Ropes or Wiihes about their Oan, -n as to leave Loop^ wherein they may put the stumps of :heir Arms; and therewith they will pull an Oar lustily. They that have one hand can do well enough : and of These you shall sec a great many even in the City. This iort of punishment is inflicted for greater Robberies; but 'or small pilfering the first time Thieves are only whipt; lit after this a Petty I.arceny is looked on as a great crime. cither is this sort of puniahmcnr peculiar to the Achinese nrcmroent, but probably, used by the other Princes of Island, and on the Island Java also, especially at intun. They formerly, when the King of Bantam was I his prosperity, depriv'd Men of the right hand for Theft, and may still for ought I know. I knew a Dutch-man so leTv'd : he was a Seaman belonging to one of the King of Bantam's Shipt. Being thus punbhcd, he was dismist from hj» service, and when I was this time at Achin he lived I there. Here at Achin, when a member is thus cut off. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Aif. they have a broad piece of Leather or Bladder ready to ^^ clap on the Wound. This is presently applyed, and bound on so fast, that the Blood cannot issue forth. By this means the great Flux of Blood is stop*d, which would else ensue ; and I never heard of any one who died of it. How long this Leather is kept on the Wound I know not : but it is so long, till the Blood is perfectly stanched ; and when it is taken off, the clods of Blood which were prest in the Wound by the Leather, peel all oflF with it, leaving the Wound clean. Then, I judge, they use cleansing or healing Plaisters, as they see convenient, and cure the Wound with a great deal of ease. I never heard of any that suffered Death for Theft. Criminals, who deserve Death, are executed divers ways, according to the Nature of the Offence, or the Quality of the Offender. One way is by Impaling on a sharp Stake, which passeth up right from the Fundament through the Bowels, and comes out at the Neck. The Stake is about the Bigness of a Man's Thigh, placed upright, one End in the Ground very firm; the upper sharp End is about 12 or 14 Foot high. I saw one Man spitted in this manner, and there he remained two or three Days : but I could not learn his Offence. Noblemen have a more honourable Death; they are allowed to fight for their Lives : but the Numbers of those with whom they are to engage, soon put a Period to the Combat, by the Death of the Malefactor. The manner of it is thus ; the Person condemned is brought bound to the Place of Execution. This is a large plain Field, spacious enough to contain Thousands of People. Thither the Achinese, armed as they usually go, with their Cresset, but then more especially, resort in Troops, as well to be Spectators, as Actors in the Tragedy. These make a very large Ring, and in the midst of the Multitude the Criminall is placed, and by him such Arms as are allowed on such Occasions : which are, a Sword, a Cresset, and a Lance. When the Time is come to Act, he is unbound, and left at his Liberty to take up his fighting Weapons. The Spectators being all ready, with each Man his Arms 66 |ThTe general slavery at achin hi hn Hftnd, stand still io their Places, till the Malefactor ^bvsoces. He commonly sets out with a Shriek, and ' ^■li^ly faces the Multitude : but he is soon brought to ^Bc Ground, first by Lances thrown at him, and afterwards by their Swords and Cressets. One was thus executed while I WIS there: I had not the fortune to hear of it till ic wat ended : but had this relation the same evening it was done, from Mr. Dennis Driscal, who was then one of the Spectators. Tbit Countr)- is governed by a Queen, under whom there arc 12 Oronkeys, or great Lords. These act in their iCTcral Prcdncts with great Power and Authority. Under these there are other inferiour Officers, to keep the Peace in the several parts of the Queens Dominions. The prcftcnt Shabander of Achin is one of the Oronkeys. He is a Man of greater knowledge than any of the rest, and sup- posed to be very rich. 1 have heard say, he had not less than 1000 Slaves, some of whom were topping Merchants, and had many Slaves under them. And even these, tho* they are Slaves to Slaves, yet have their Slaves also ; neither on a stranger easily know who is a Slave and who not among them : for they are att, in a manner, Slaves to one another: and all in general to the Queen and Oronkeys; foe their Government is very Arbitrary. Yet there is nothing of rigour used by the Master to his Slave, except it be the very meanest, such as do all sorts of servile Work : but tboic who can turn their hands to any thing besides Drudgery, live well enough by their industry. Nay, they are encouraged by their Masters, who often lend them Money to begin some trade or business withal ; Whereby the Servant live* easie, and with great content follows what his Inclination or Opacity fits him for ; and the Master iho, who has a share \n the gains, reaps the more profit, Tct wiThout trouble. When one of these Slaves dies, his .MisTcr is Heir to what he leaves; and his Children, if he ha5 any, become his Staves also; unless the Father out of his own clear gains has in his life time had wherewithal to purchMe their Freedom. The Markets are kept by these People, and you icarce trade with any other. The Money- «7 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS. changers also arc Skrcs, and in general all the Women *^ that you see in the streets; not one erf" them being free. So are the Ftshcr-mcn, and others who fetch Firewood in Canoas from Pulo Gomez, fcH* thence those of this Gty fetch most of thcr Wood, tho* there b scarce anything to be seen but Woods about the Gty. Yet tho' all these are Slaves, they have habitations or houses to themselves in several parts of the Gty, far from their Masters Houses, as if they were free People. But to return to the Sha- bander I was speaking of, all Merchant Strangers, at their first arrival, make their Entries with him, which is always done with a good Present: and from him they take all their dispatches when they depart; and all Matters of Importance in General between Merchants are determined by him. It seems to have been by his Conversion and Acquaintance with Strangers, that he became so knowing, beyond the rest of the Great men : and he is also said to be himself a great Merchant. The Queen of Achin, as *tis said, is always an old Maid, chosen out of the Royal Family. What Ceremonies are used at the chusing her I know not : Nor who are the Electors; but I suppose they are the Oronkeys. After she is chosen, she is in a manner confined to her Palace ; for by report she seldom goes abroad, neither is she seen by any People of inferiour rank and quality ; but only by some of her Domesticks : except that once a Year she is drest all in white, and placed on an Elephant, and so rides to the River in state to wash herself: but whether any of the meaner sort of People may see her in that Prc^ess I know not : for it is the custom of most Eastern Frinces to skreen themselves from the sight of their Subjects : Or if they sometimes go abroad for their pleasure, yet the People are then ordered either to turn their backs towards them while they pass by, as formerly at Bantam, or to hold their Hands before their Eyes, as at Siam. At Mindanao, they may look on their Prince : but from the highest to the lowest they approach him with the greatest respect and veneration, creeping very low, and oft-times on their Knees, with their Eyes fixed on him : and when they withdraw, 68 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. which stands on the West side, held out stoutly. The '^ River is wider, shallower, and more sandy at the City, than any where else near it : yet not fordable at low Water. Therefore for the better communication from one side to the other, there are Ferry-boats to carry Passengers to and fro. In other places the Banks are steep, the River more rapid, and in most places very muddy : so that this place, just at the City itself, is the most convenient to transport Men or Goods from one side to the other. It was not far from this place the Army lay, as if they designed to force their passage here. The Queens party, to oppose them, kept a small Guard of Soldiers just at the Landing-place. The Shabander of Achin had a Tent set up there, he being the chief manager of her Affairs : and for the more security, he had 2 or 3 small brass Guns of a Minion Bore planted by his Tent all the day, with their Muzzels against the River. In the Evening there were 2 or 3 great Trees drawn by an Elephant, and placed by the side of the River, for a Barricado against the Enemy : and then the Brass Guns were drawn from the Shabander*s Tent, which stood not far from it, and planted just behind the Trees, on the rising Bank: So that they looked over the Trees, and they might fire over, or into the River, if the Enemy approached. When the Barricado was thus made and the Guns planted, the Ferry-boats passed no more from side to side, till the next Morning. Then you should hear the Soldiers calling to each other, not in menacing Language, but as those who desired Peace and Quietness, asking why they would not agree, why they could not be of one Mind, and why they should desire to kill one another. This was the Tone all Night long ; in the Morning as soon as Sun was risen, the Guns were drawn again to the Shabander's Tent, and the Trees were drawn aside, to open the Passage from one Side to the other : and every Man then went freely about his Business, as if all had been as quiet as ever, only the Shabander and his Guard staid still in their Stations : So that there was not any Sign of Wars, but in the Night only, when all stood to their Arms : and then the Towns-people seemed 70 DANCING WOMEN to be in fear, and sometimes we should have a Rumour, that the Enemy would certainly make an Attempt to come over. ' While these Stirs lasted, the Shabander sent to all the Foreigners, and desired them to keep in their own houses in the Night, and told them, that whatever might happen in the City by their own civil Broils, yet no harm should come to them. Yet some of the Portuguese, fearing the worst, would every Night put their richest Goods into a Boat, ready to lake their Flight on the first Alarm. There were St this Time not above 2 or 3 English Families in the Town, and 2 English Ships, and one Dutch Ship, besides 2 or 3 Moors Ships of the Moguls Subjects, in the Road. One of the English Ships was called the NelUgree ; the Name taken from Nellegrce Hills in Bengal, as I have heard. She came from the Bay of Bengal, laden with Rice, Cotton, Sec. the other was the Dorothy of London, Captain Thwait Commander, who came from Fort St, George, and was bound to Bcncouli with Soldiers, but couched here, as well to sell some Goods, as to bring a Present to the Queen from our East-India Company. Captain Thwait, according to custom went with his Present to the Queen, which she accepted ; and complemented him with the usual Civilities of the Country ; for to honour him he was set upon an Elephant of the Queen's to ride to his Lodgings, dressed in a Malayan Habit, which she gave him ; and she sent also two Dancing Girls to shew him some Pastime there : and I mm them at his Lodgings that Evening, dancing the greatest Part of the Night much after the same Manner of the Danctog-women of Mindanao, rather writhing their Hands and Bodies with several Anlick Gestures, than moving much out of the Place they were in. He had at this Time ibout twenty great Jars of Bengal Butter, made of Bufl^- IfjcsMiik; and this Butter is said also to have Lard or Hog's Fat mixt with it, and rank enough in these hot Countries, iho' much esteemed by all the Achinesc, who gire a good Price for it ; and our English also use it. Each oftbe Jars this came in contained 20 or 30 Gallons; 4nd they were »ct in Mr. Driscal's Yard at Achin : What ocW Goods the Captain brought I know not. 71 :r?T-Z>r Z:^\L?[ZR^ VOYAGES 3ur 7.: r:^ irrrr rns le 3e-nc inr^muad chat the • u 7T .f"-! — c T^» - •-*—£: .icrc ^TaLi .anrjcd off a great r-'Hi'-Lrr :ir.ari nrjir ihira^ n jricr "x: rscum with it to r-nr^. -iTw -T J.mrmv nrrnz i«-'w Wxcs with the great ^l^ ^L.. I-rTzin T'r^rzi: n nr Zr^^mng irew t^ff all his ^riiiznm, jT-i -iiiztu n jne ir nu Ulcers Snrs^ where he r:. '.:^: nz r^-^iisur^ t::^^. "ITiti Ji^jsps ie lee xlone : She nir . f.::r ::i.i •::i J-ir:=in Jjiiscmr t:::ck bi the Road -. :n::n:r.r "=r r=- :iiu r^^-ir:* Tiiimiertsi "ler. iegXTe her to the ^»:j^:. r r-zr-n m^ M»- r^ :iju^r ier igiic^ The Moors > Lvjr-iirj^::^ r-»^ frr^^- V r:u:i :r rris Arion. ot Captain 7"rvr»:7, li:.: ::;:'■ rprsc-i:;" iriiie ricir AzTiictdon to the ^ j:k.*^t -T-r fir:^.ct:- ::. 3ur icr Aihirs sz zirs Time being :i -uj:i i ? sr.:rr: is- 1 ncnccire-J, iv Rascn of their in- -jsriie 3r*:ls. s:v: a;;^ iiTt: rjuni z^: iccirinc f'-'f them- > v-^ : T- . I I vT'^i-L nc iiixr Div. before we who i"^^ irriTtn; Ti^u^-^ :r J^rtxn T'l-vxts Proceecin^s: but icti:!:;! rrc M* crs 'fi\:>t rj Ciir:. lac 20c kn^owing what A::*^^ :::e ■ :-.iki rrun r^e Oueen* we roscsd off to the Si:;.:^ r :r rixr r .*e:i:i; :t! rrjscnec. is ^cme English Men -tuc ret::: 'vzi'.n I iris iz 7 rnc-i-rr, on the lie Score. LtCit^^ I t.ivi 1: ::::< 7* ne ^r^-^t Ciuse :o be afraid of a Prjs.n, re:r;c 5;c:v :r 1 r '. -x 5*: riii 1 Prison would have ^:r.vi z«i-ir : : ru. ":: i:l_vM -ri^ v^c I tirirk :: fired not much berr^r -v-.zr. zzsi^ f t T.'^e 5i*-.rs I iei to ittbrded me but l:r:,i Crcir.r:. r:r I c*.<::sr -.; Miji xbcuni the Dorothy^ xr.i zz'i.i ixrec: -. : Crr^r: then;. So I and the rest Win: ibtrori rhi .V; .jr'-.\ sr^tTt w^ cocli more reasonably expect Ri'iif tbir. :-. 1 5bir tb^t cim^ f^.'^m England : For these ^hich co.tie >: 1:-:^ 1 ^"^^yj'^* ^^^ j'^-^ victualled for the Service, ir.d :b.e Seint^n hive everv one their stinted Allowance, ou: ci which they rjLve little enough to spare to Strangers. But tho' there were X'ictuils enough aboard the Nelkgree^ yet so weak as I then wis, I had more mind to rest my self than to eat : and the Ship was so pestered with Goods, that I could not find a Place to hang up my Hammock in. There- fore it being fair Weather, I made a Shift to lye in the Boat that I came aboard in. My Flux was violent, and I 72 A TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE MOON iHept but little » I had the Opportunity of observing the , Moon totally Eclipsed, h»d I been in a. Condition lo observe ' in? Thing. As soon as I perceived the Moon to be eclipsed, 1 gazed at it indeed, as 1 lay, till it was totally obscured, which was a pretty while: but I was so little curious, that I rrmembrcd not so much as what Day of the Month it wa» ; and 1 kept no Journal of this Voyage, as I did of my oclier, but only kept an Account of several particular Re- marks and Observations as they occurred to me. I lay three or four Days thus in this Boat, and the People of the Ship were so kind as to provide me with Necessaries : and by this rime the Moors had got a Pass from the Dutch Captain then n the Road, for 4 or 500 Dollars, as I was ihcn told, and Captain Thwait delivered them their Ship again, but what Tcnns he made with them. I know not. Tiius that Fray was ■vcr, and we came ashore again, recovered of the Fright wc had been in. In a short Time also after this, the Achinese jJl agreed to own the new Queen, and so the War ended without iny Bloodshed. I was perswadcd to wash in the River, Mornings and Evenings, for the Recovery of my Health : and tho' it iccmcd strange to me before 1 tried it, yet I found so much Comfort in the first Trial, that 1 constantly applied my self :o it, I went into the River till the Water was as high as my Waste, and then 1 stooped down and found the Water »<'< cool and refreshing to my Body, that I was always loth to go out again. Then I was sensible that my Bowels •ere vcrj' hot, for 1 felt a great Heat within me, which I found rcfreaht by the cool Water. My Food was Salt-fish bn>ylcd, and boiled Rice mixt with Tire. Tire Is sold iboui the Streets there : 'tis thick sower Milk, It is very fooling, and the Salt-fish and Rice ts binding: therefore ihis u thought there the proper Food for the common People, when they have Fluxes. But the richer Sort will hx7e Sago, which is brought to Achin from other Countries, ind Milk of Almonds. But to return to the State of Achin : before I go off Trixn it I shall add this short Account of the Seasons of Year '^here, that their Weather is much the same as in other 73 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Countries North of the Line, and their dry Seasons, Rains, '^ and Land-floods come much at the same Time, as at Ton- quin and other Places of North Latitude. Only as Achin lies within a few D^rees of the Line, so upon the Sun*s crossing the Line in March, the Rains b^n a little sooner there than in Gauntries nearer the Tropick of Cancer : and when they are once set in, they are as violent there as any where. I have seen it rain there for 2 or 3 Days without Intermission ; and the River running but a short Course, its Head not lying very far within Land, it soon overflows, and a great part of the Street of the City, shall on a sudden be all under Water ; at which Time People row up and down the Streets in Canoas. That Side of the City towards the River especially, where the Foreign Merchants live, and which is lower Ground, is frequently under Water in the wet Season : a Ship's Long-boat has come up to the very Gate of our English Factory laden with Goods ; which at other Times is Ground dry enough, at a good Distance from the River, and moderately raised above it. I did not find the Heat there any Thing difierent from other Places in that Latitude ; tho* I was there both in the wet and dry Season. *Tis more supportable than at Tonquin ; and they have constantly the Refreshment of Sea and Land-Breezes every 24 Hours. 74 CHAP. VIII I Til ittktr prtparft t» gt fir Ptgu. Among othtri a Ship arrives hrre frtm Attrge in Siam, Of iht Maaocri of the English there. H,> ininulai Cargo fir Pegu. Tht arrival of other Bn^/hh Mtn frtmt llu City of fi««. The Author sets out fir Malaua instead tf Ptpi, Thtj eiri imalmed, and soon after in great Danger of nmKiitg agrmmd. The Coast of Sumatra from Diamond Point to ikt Rivrr DiUy. They walrr thtrt and at PuU {■'erero ; where thrj mtri a Shif of Danes and Moors from Trangambar. Pulo Jrdy and Puk Pan*lere, a useful Sea-mari to avoid SholfS near Afmiacta Shtre. The Author arrives at Malacca Town. The TtUm attd ill Ftrii dtttrihtd: the Conquest of it by the Dutch, from tk* Partagtuu, Chinese and other Merchants residing here. The S^Jr *f Flesh and Fish ; the Fruits and Animals. The Shabander, StsU tf the Trade, and Guard-Shifis. Opium, a good Commodity *—y th* Malayans. Rattan Cables. They prepare for their rtttm t^ t* Achin. f AS soon as I was prttty well recovered, I was shipt aic.! i^k Mate of the Sloop that came from Malacca 1689 Jm^L with us, which Mr. Wells had sold to Captain ^ ^. Tyler, who lately came from SJam : and I was mc aboard to take Possession of her, about the Beginning of May, 1669. He who was designed to command her came to Achin Mate of the Nellegree ; and we were now go to Pegu, but before the Middle nf June he left the iploy, being sick, and loth to go at this dead Time of Year to Pegu, because the Westerly Wind was set in g, and the Coast of IVgu is low Land, and we were unacquainted on the Coast. I was then made Com- 9-, and took in Goods in order tn depart for that In the mean time Mr. Coventry arrived in his Ship the Coast of Coromandel laden with Rice, and a 75 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. small Vessel belonging to Capt. Tyler came also ifrom 1689 Merga much about the same Time. This last Ship had been at Merga ^ a considerable time, having been seized on by the Siamites, and all the Men imprisoned, for some diflFerence that happened between the English and them. Neither was a Prison then thought hard Usage by them, for during the Havock was made of the English there, many of those who lived at Merga were massacred. Those who were imprisoned, were kept there till all the English who lived at the City of Siam, on the other Side of the Kingdom, withdrew from thence : and then these Men had their Liberty restored also, and their Ship given them, but no Goods, nor Satisfaction for their Losses, nor so much as a Compass to bring with them, and but little Provision. Yet here they safely arrived. This being a better Ship than I was gone aboard of. Captain Tyler immediately fitted her up for the Sea, in order to send her to Pegu. By this Time my Vessel was loaden, and my Cargo was eleven thousand Coco-nuts, five or six hundred Weight of Sugar, and half a dozen Chests of Drawers of Japan work, two were very large, designed for a Present to the King. Besides this, Capt. Tyler, for so we used to call him, tho' he was only a Merchant, said he intended to send a good Quantity of Gold thither, by which he ex- pected to gain 60 or 70 per Cent ; for by Report the King of Pegu had lately built a very magnificent Pagoda, and was gilding it very richly with Gold : besides he was making a large Image of Massy Gold for the chief Pagod of this Temple. By this Means Gold was risen in its Value here : and Achin being a place abounding in that Metal, much of it had already been sent thither from hence, and more was going in other Vessels, belonging to the Moors of Achin, beside what Captain Tyler designed to send. It was now about the Middle of August ; and tho* I was ready to sail, yet I was ordered to stay for Captain 1 Mergui. 76 NTTTMEGS FOR PEGU 'ylcr's other Vessel, till she had taken in her Lading. Mch w»s daily sent off. Her Cargo also was Coco-nuts, '' the had about 8 ur 9000 already aboard : when 1 re- Mi an Order from Captain Tyler to hale aboard of her, put all my Girgo into her ; as also all my Water-cask, whatever else I could spare that they wanted ; but ui he desired me to be satisfied, and told me I should bort Time be sent to Sea : but that Ship being the :, he thought it more convenient to dispatch her first, mily did as I was ordered ; and finding that I should > this Voyage, I sold also my small Cargo, which :cd only of some Coco-nuts and about too Nutmegs, had the shells on as they grew on the Trees. I bought ill that I could meet with in the Town, and paid about 3 d a piece, and expected to have had 12 d. a Piece for ihera at Pegu, where they are much esteemed if the ^(cIU be on, for else they don't value them. About this Time the George, a great English Ship longing to one Mr. Dahon, arrived here from the City ■ Stam, coming thro' the Strc^hts of Malacca. He had en there some Years trading to and fro, and had made Tf profitable Voyages : but the late Revolution that ipned there by the Death of the King, and the unhappy ;e of ray Lord Falcon, caused the English to withdraw xn thence. The French were til sent away some Months don, being not suffered to stay in the Kingdom : but Tore this Ship came from thence, the Broils of State were er; for the new King being settled, all Tumults which commonly arise in these Countries at the Death of the King, were appeased. The English were then desired 10 ly there, and those who had yielded up their Places and haet. were even intreated to accept them again, for they rned that they had at) served the Nation faithfully. But C long before the Revolution, the Governor of Fort St. Gmmvc lent for all the English from thence particularly, •ad ^otn the Service of alt other Indian Princes, to come serve the East-India Company at the Fort, or where tbey should send them. For that Reason they all : away with Mr. Dalton, and he. in kindness to his 77 4 1 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Country-men, refused to take in Goods or Freight, because ^^ he would have room enough for their Passage, and thdr Household Goods : for here were some Families of Men, Women and Children. They were a long time coming from Siam to Achin, because they came against the Monsoon; and in their Passage they touch'd at Malacca, and when they arrived at Achin, Mr. Dalton went ashore and hired an House, as did also most of his Passengers : and among the rest Captain Minchin, who had formerly served the East-India Company at Surrat, but on some disgust left that Place and came to Siam. There he was made Gunner of a Fort, and maintained his Wife and Family very well in that Employ, till the Revolution there, and the Companies orders came and called him from thence. He being now destitute of Employment, the Merchants there thought of making him Commander of the Vessel that I was in, because Captain Tyler was minded to sell part of Her. Accordingly they met about it, and the Vessel was divided into four Parts, three of which were purchased by Mr. Dalton, Mr. Coventry, and Capt. Minchin, and Captain Tyler kept the 4th. The next Day Capt. Minchin came off with an order to me to deliver him the possession of the Ship, and told me, that if I liked to go his Mate, I might still keep aboard till they had agreed on a Voyage. I was forced to submit, and accepted a Mate's Employ under Captain Minchin. It was not long before we were ordered for Malacca to buy Goods there. We carried no Goods with us, besides 3 or 400 pound of Opium. It was about the middle of September, 1689, when we sailed from Achin. We were four white Men in the Vessel, the Captain, and Mr. Coventry, who went Supercargo, my- self and the Boatswain. For common Seamen we had 7 or 8 Moors : and generally in these Country Ships the White- men are all Officers. Two Days after we left Achin, being becalmed under the Shore, we came to an Anchor. Not long after a Ship coming in from the Seaward, came to an Anchor about 2 Mile a-head of us. Mr. Coventry knew her to be a Danish Ship belonging to Trangambar; and 78 THEY ARE IK DANGER OF SHIPWRECK therefore we hoisted out our Boat, and thought to have spoken with her: but a small Breeze springing up, they ' weighed their Anchors and went away; neither would they speak with ua, tho* we made signs for them to stay. We weighed also and jogg'd on after them, but they sailed better than we. We met little Winds and Calms, so that it wa3 seven or eight Days before we got as far as Diamond-point, which a about forty leagues from Achin. Being about four leagues short of that Point, Captain Minchin desired me to set the Land, and withal prick the Card, and sec what Course we ought to keep all Night ; for it was now about 6 a-Clock, and we had a fine gale at W, S. W, our course yet being E- S- E. After I had set the Land, I went into the Cabbin to look over the Draught to see what course we must steer after we came about the Point. Mr. Coventry followed IDC, and when I had satisfied myself, he asked me what coarse we must steer ? I told him E. S. E. till 1 2 a-Clock, if the gale stood, and then we might hale more Southerly. He teemed to be startled at it, and told me, that the Csptain and he had been pricking the Card, and thought •hat S. E, or S. E. by S. course would do well at 8 a-Clock. I said it was a good course to run ashore ; he argued a long •irae with me, but I persisted in my Opinion, and when I : lid Captain Minchin of my Opinion, he was well satisfied. IVeicntly after this we had a pretty strong Tornado out of ■]ieS. W, which obliged us to hand our Top-sail. When :he «tre» of the weather was over, we set our sails again, ind went in to Supper, and ordered the Man at Helm not :a cotoe to the Southward of the E. S. E. We stayed in rSe Cabbin till about 8 a-Clock, and then we came out to jct ihc Watch. It was now very dark, by reason of a Thuodcr-Cloud that hung rumbling over the Land : yet '■Y the flatbcs of lightning wc plainly saw the Land, right i-bead of us, I was much surprised, and ran into the ^<oeridgc to look on the Compass, and found that we were y.txnag S. S. E. instead of E. S. E. I clapt the Helm a Surbosrd, and brought her to N. E. by E- and N.E. and wc rery narrowly escap'd being cast away. 79 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. When we first went to Supper we were 3 leagues ofF 1689 Land, and then E. S. E. was a good course, the Land lying E. S. E. parallel with our course. But then the Man at Helm mistaking his Compass steer'd S. S. E. which runs right in upon the Shore. I believe we had also some counter-current or Tide that help*d us in, for we were quickly got into a Bay within the points of Land. So that 'twas now absolutely necessary to steer Northerly to get out of the Bay ; and by this time Mr. Coventry was satisfied with what I told him in the Evening, and was convinced of his Error. I undertook to direct the Man at Helm, and the Wind continuing, I kept ofF till ten a-Clock: then I steered E. S. E. till 12, and then haled up S. S. E. and in the Morning we were about 4 leagues S. E. from Diamond-point, and about 3 leagues to the North of an Island. The Land from hence lying S. S. E. we steered so ; but meeting with calms again, we anchored several times before we came to the River of Dilly, which is 28 leagues from Diamond-point. The Land between seems to be uneven, most of it pretty high, and very woody : and *tis said that all this Country, as far as the River Dilly, is under the Queen of Achin. About a League before we came to that River, being within 2 Mile of the Shore, we saw the Water of a muddy grey Colour, and tasting it, found it to be sweet. There- fore we presently filled some of our Water Cask ; and *tis an ordinary thing in several places to take up fresh Water at Sea, against the mouth of some River where it floats above the Salt-water : but we must dip but a little way down ; for sometimes if the Bucket goes but a foot deep it takes up Salt-water with the fresh. In the Evening we had a fine Land Breeze, with which we ran along the Shore, keeping on a wind, and sounding every now and then. At last we were got among the Sholes, at the mouth of that River, and puzzled to get out again. The River is in Lat. 3 d. 50 m. N. It seems to be very large, but it is not well known, but only to the Natives who inhabit it ; and they are not very sociable ; 80 W SiHiP T^OM TRANGAMBAR ^pit arc. bj- Report, a Sort of Pirates living on Rapine. , 1b the Miming ne saw a Sail standing ofr to an Island ' called Pulo Vcrero, lying in Lat. 3 d. 30 m. N. seven Leagues from the Mouth of the River EHlly. We liaving a fair Wind, stood after them, intending there to wood and water at Pulo Vcrero. For though we took no fresh Water the Evening before out of the Sea, yet at the River of Dilly it was brackish : for tho' the fresh Water is born up by the Salt, and might be intire without Mixture, yet by plunging of the Bucket somewhat too low, we might pro- bably take up some of the Salt water with it. They came to an Anchor about two or three a-Clock in the Afternoon : but the Wind slacken 'd, and it was eight a-Clock at Night hcforc we came thither. Wc anchored about a Mile from tbcm, and presently hoysed out our Boat to go aboard : ttiT WC judged that this was the Danish Ship, that we saw ■^hcn wc came first from Achin. I went in the Boat, because Mr. Covcntrj- told me, that Mr. Coppinger was Surgeon ^r ber, the «mc Person who was with me in the Boat when I was set ashore at the Nicobar Isles, but was not suffered T'j stay with me. Mr. Coventry was now in the Boat with me. mi we went and haled the Ship, asking whence she came? and who was Commander? They answered, they ■*cre Danes from Trangambar, for 'twas the Ship we took i! to be. Then they askt who we were ? I answered English frvan Achin, and that Mr. Coventry was in the Boat, but they would not believe it till Mr. Coventry spoke and the Captain knew his Voice : neither did they tilt then believe we were FriciKls; for they had every Man his Gun in his Iland. nauly to fire on us, if wc had gone aboard without baling, as Mr. Coventry would have done, in Confidence that efaey knew him, had not I disswaded him. For it lecms they were extreamly afraid of us, insomuch that the Commander, seeing us follow them in the Morning, «t«ikl not have louchol at these Islands, though he was in great want of Water ; and had not his Black Merchants hucn before him on their Knees, and even prayed him to take Fity on tbcm, they bad not anchored here. These Merchants were InhabitanU of Trangambar on the Coast VOL. II. 8t F CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of Coromandel. They having no Ships of their own, when '^^9 the Danes fit out a Ship, on any Voyage that they are in- clined to, these Moors are obliged to joyn Stock with them, and they first make an OfFer of it to them as a Kindness : and the Moors being generally desirous to trade, frequently accept of it almost on any Terms : but should they be un- willing, yet dare they not refuse, for fear of disobliging the Danes, who are Lords of the Place. In this Ship I found Mr. Coppinger: and he was the first that I had seen of all the Company that left me at the Nicobar Islands. The next Morning we filled our Water and weighed again ; the Dane being gone a little before. He was bound to Jihore, to load Pepper, but intended to touch at Malacca, as most Ships do that pass these Streights. He also sailed better than we, and therefore left us to follow him. We stood on yet nearest to the Sumatra Shore, till we came in Sight of Pulo Arii, in Lat. 3 d. 2 m. N. These are several Islands lying S. E. by E. Easterly from Pulo Verero about 32 Leagues distant. These Islands are good Marks for Ships bound thro' the Streights : for when they bear S. E. at 3 or 4 Leagues Distance, you may steer away E. by S. for the Malacca Shore, from whence you then may be about 20 Leagues. The first Land you will sec is Pulo Parselore, which is a high peeked Hill in the Country, on the Malacca Coast : which standing by it self amidst a low Country, it appears like an Island though I know not whether it is really one ; for it stands some Miles within the Shoar of the Continent of Malacca. It is a very remarkable Hill, and the only Sea-mark for Seamen to guide themselves through certain Sands that lye near the Main; and if it is thick hazy Weather, and the Hill is obscur'd. Pilots, unless they are very knowing in the Soundings, will hardly venture in : for the Channel is not above a League wide, and there are large Shoals on each Side. These Shoals lye ten Leagues from Pulo Arii, and continue till within 2 or 3 of the Malacca Shoar. In the Channel there is 12 or 14 Fathom Water, but you may keep 7 or 8 Fathom on either Side ; and sounding all the Way, you may pass on without Danger. 82 J MALACCA TOWN AND FORT I Wc had a good Gale at West, which brought us in A 'Sight of Pulo Pau-selore: and so we kept sounding till we *1 e*me within the Shear, and then we had the Town of I Malacca about 1 8 Leagues distant from us, to the S. E. I and by E. Being shot over to the Malacca Shore, there is I good wide Channel to sail in, you having the Shoals on I te Side, and the Land on the other ; to which last you I *y come as nigh as you see convenient, for there is Water I snough, and good anchoring. The Tide runs pretty I ■trong hor; the Flood sets to the Eastward, and the Ebb I to the West: and therefore when there is little Wind, and I Ships cannot stem the Tide, they commonly anchor. But I ■c being in with the Malacca Shoar, had a westerly Wind, | Vhich brought us before Malacca Town, about the Middle of October; and here 1 first heard that King William and I Queen Mary were crowned King and Queen of England. J The Dane that left us at Pulo Verero was not yet arrived : I §or, as wc afterwards understood, they could not find the I Vay diro' the Sands, but were forced to keep along without I lliera, and fetch a great Compass about, which retarded lieir Passage. Malacca is a pretty large Town, of about 2 or 300 'amilies of Dutch and Portuguese, many of which are a ffiUt Breed between those Nations. There arc also many of the Native Malayans inhabiting in small Cottages on the Skirts of the Town. The Dutch Houses are built with Stone, and the Streets are wide and straight, but not paved. : the North West of the Town there is a Wall and Gate pass in and out : and a small Fort always guarded with ' iiers. The Town stands on a level low Ground, close I the Sea. The Lind on the Backside of the Town «enii to be morassy, and on the West-side, without the WaJl, there arc Gardens of Fruits and Herbs, and some fur Dutch Houses : but that Quarter is chiefly the Habita- | liaa of the Malayans. On the East-side of the Town, 1 tltse » a small River which at a Spring-Tide will admit 4BiaII Barks tn enter. About icx3 Paces from the Sea is a Draw-bridge, which leads from the midst of the Tovn to a strong Fort, built on the East-side of the River. J 83 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. This is the chief Fort, and is built on a low level >689 Ground, close by the Sea, at the Foot of a little steep Hill. Its Form is semicircular, according to the natural Position of the adjacent Hill. It fronts chiefly to the Sea, and having its Foundation on firm Rocks, the Walls are carried up to a good Height, and of a considerable Thickness. The lower Part of it is washed by the Sea every Tide. On the Back of the Hill, the Land being naturally low, there is a very large Moat cut from the Sea to the River, which makes the whole an Island ; and that back Part is stocka- doed round with great Trees, set up an end : so that there is no entring when once the Draw-bridge is haled up. On the Hill, within this Fort stands a small Church big enough to receive all the Towns-people, who come hither on Sundays to hear Divine Service : and on the Main, beyond the Fort, the Malayans are also seated close by the Sea. The first Europeans who settled here were the Portu- guese ; They also built the great Fort : but whether they moted round the Hill, and made an Island of that Spot of Ground, I know not, nor what Charges have been bestowed on it since to make it defenceable ; nor what other Altera- tions have been made; but the whole Building seems to be pretty ancient, and that Part of it which fronts to the Sea, was in all Probability, built by the Portuguese; for there are still the Marks of the Conquerours shot in the Walls. It is a Place so naturally strong, that I even wonder how they could be beaten out : but when I consider what other Places they then lost, and their Mismanage- ments, I am the less surprized at it. The Portuguese were the first Discoverers by Sea of the East-Indies, and had thereby the Advantage of Trade with these rich Eastern People, as also an Opportunity, thro' their Weakness, to settle themselves where they pleased. Therefore they made Settlements and Forts among them in divers Places of India, as here for one : and presuming upon the Strength of their Forts, they insulted over the Natives ; and bemg grown rich with Trade, they fell into all Manner of Loose- ness and Debauchery ; the usual Concomitant of Wealth, and as commonly the Fore-runner of Ruin. The Portu- 84 MOORS AND CHINESE MERCHANTS :h» Place, by Report, made ; of I Native Women «t their Pleasure, whether Virgins or married '^ Women; such as they liked they took without Controul ; end it is probable, they as tittle restrained their Lust in other Places; for the Breed of them is scattered all over India ; neither arc there any People of more different Com- plexions than of thai Race, even from the Coal-black to a light Tawncy. These Injuries exasperated the Native Malayans here who joyning with the Dutch, as 1 havu been "nformed, found Means to betray to them their insolent Masters the Portuguese : than whom there are not a more 'spicabtc People now in all the Eastern Nations: and of 1 they once possest, (hey have now only Goa left, of any tec of Consequence. The Dutch are now Masters of t of the Places they were once possest of; and particu- rly this of Malacca. Malacca is a Place of no great Trade, yet there are tevcral Moors Merchants always residing here. These have Shops of Wares, such as come from Surrat, and the Coast of CiiTomsndel and Bengal. The Chinese also arc voted here, who bring the Commodities of their Country hitho*, especially Tea, Sugar-candy, and other Sweet-meats. Some of ihcm keep Tea-houses, where for a. Stiver, a Man has near a Pint of Tea, and a little Porrcnger of Sugar- caady, or other Sweet-meats, if he pleases. Others of them arc Butchers: their chief Flesh is Pork, which you may have very reasonably, either fresh or salted : Neither ■ yoo dented to take any particular Piece, but they will I Piece at one Place, and the like at another, either fat lean, as you would have it. Others among these hinesc are Trades-people ; and they arc all in general TV industrious, but withal extraordinary Gamesters : and ' tbcy can get any to play with them, all Bu^^incss must ^bmtt to that. Thb Town is plentifully stored with Fish also. When Fishermen come in, they all resort to a Place built xU for the Sale of them. There arc Soldiers waitiiw, who take the best for the Officers of the Fort ; •bflho- they pay for it, or that 'tis a Toll of Custom >5 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AST. belonging to the Governor I know not ; but after they '^ are served^ the rest are sold to any who will buy. The manner of selling is thus: The Fish which every Man brings in is sorted, yet all sold by the Lump at once, in the manner of an Outcry or Auction, but not by raising, but lowering the Price: for there is one appointed for this Sale, who sets the first Price higher than the Value of the Fish, and falls by Degrees, till the Price seems reason- able : then one or other buys. But these first Bargains are commonly bought by the Fish-wives, who retail them out again. Oysters are in great Plenty here, and very good when they are salt ; but sometimes they are fresh and unsavory. As for other Provisions, their Rice is brought to them from abroad. Such Fruits as they have are much the same as I have already described and are proper to the Climate, as Plantains, Bonanoes, Pine-apples, Oranges, Water-melons, Pumple-noses, Mango's, &c. but these arc only in their Gardens, in no great Plenty ; and the Country is all covered with Wood, like one Forest : and most of our Walking-Canes used in England, are brought from thence. They have also a few Cattle, Bullocks, and Horses, &c. having, but little Pasturage, but good Store of tame Fowl, Ducks, and Poultry. The principal Person in the Town is the Shabander, a Dutch man, next in Power to the Governour, who lives in the Fort, and meddles not with Trade, which is the Shabander*s Province, who seems to be chiefly concerned about the Customs of Goods. This Town has no great Trade, by what I could see, but it seems to be designedly built to command the Passage of Shipping, going this way to the more Eastern Nations. Not but that Ships may pass far enough out of reach of their Cannon ; but Guard-Ships belonging to the Town, and lying in the Road, may hinder others from passing. How the Portuguese managed their AfFairs I know not : but the Dutch commonly keep a Guard-ship here ; and I have been told they require a certain Duty of all Vessels that pass this way, the English only excepted : for all Ships touch at this Place, especially for Wood, Water, and Refreshment. 86 MALAYANS PROVOK£D BY THE DUTCH Two days after our Arrival here, the DanishiShip came av. also to an Anchor ; but reporting that they were bound to '*^9 Jihorc, to lade Pepper, the Dutch told them it was but in Twn for them ro seek a Trade there ; for that the King of Jihorc, had agreed with the Dutch to trade only with them; and that to secure that Trade, they had a Guard- ship lying there. I had this Account from the Surgeon, Mr. Coppingcr, who seemed a little concerned at it : be- cause when he told me this, he could not tell whether they thould proceed thither or no; but they did go thither, and found all this a Sham, and traded there to their own and the Natives Satisfaction, as he told me the next time 1 met him. This of Jihore being but a small Kingdom on the nunc Malacca Coast, 'tis not of Strength sufficient to resist the Power of the Dutch : neither could it benefit the Dutch to take it, should they attempt It ; for the People would pobably forsake it, and it would be too great a Charge for the Dutch to settle it themselves. And therefore they only endeavour to ingross the Pepper Trade; and i( is probable enough that the Dutch might sometimes keep a Guard-ship there, as they do at other Places, parti- uUrly at Queda, Pulo Dinding, &c. For where there is Dy Trade to be had, yet not sufficient to maintain a rtory ; for where there may not be a convenient Place 1 build a Fort, so as to secure the whole Trade to elves, they send their Guard-ships, which lying at Mouth of the Rivers, deter Strangers from coming hither, and keep the petty Princes in awe of them. They commonly make a Shew as if they did this out of Kindness to those People ; yet most of them know otherwise, but dare not openly resent it. This probably causes so many petty Robberies and Piracies as are committed by the Mibyins oa this Coast. The Malayans, who inhabit on both sida the Streights of Malacca, are in general a bold People, and yet I do not find any of them addicted to Robbery, but only the pilfering poorer Sort, and even these Kverely punished among the trading Malayans, who love Trade and Property. But being thus provokeil by the Dutch, and hindred of a free Trade by their Guard-ships, 87 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. it is probable, they therefore commit Piracies themselves, 1689 Qj. connive at and incourage those who do. So that the Pirates who lurk on this Coast, seem to do it as much to revenge themselves on the Dutch, for restraining their Trade, as to gain this way what they cannot obtain in way of Traffick. But to return to our Concerns here. I have said already, that we had only three or four hundred Pound of Opium in Goods, the rest was in Money to the Value of 2000 Dollars in the whole : but we did not pretend that we came hither purposely to trade, but that finding our Vessel unfit for the Sea, we put in here to mend and repsdr her. Leave was granted us for this; and I prepared to hale our Vessel ashore, at the West-end of the Town, not far from the small Fort. It is there soft Oazy Ground, near a Mile off Shore, and it deepens very leisurely, being Shole Water just by the Shore ; and when the Tide goes out, it leaves the Oaz dry a Quarter of a Mile from the Shore : but a Mile from Shore, you have clean Sand, and about four Fathom at Low Water. Our Vessel floated in close to the Fort, and lay nor twenty Yards from it, and at low Water it sunk down into the Mud : that we could not fit the After-part, as I would have done. Opium, which is much used by the Malayans in most Places, was a great Commodity here at this Time : but it is prohibited Goods, and therefore tho' many asked for it, we were shy of having it too openly known that we had any. But in short Mr. Coventry found a Customer, and they found means to get it ashore, while the Soldiers of the Fort were at Dinner. The Customer was a Dutch Man ; and the Price he was to pay for it was as much as he was worth : and finding it to be naught, he would have been off his Bargain ; and when Mr. Coventry would not release him, he absconded. But Mr. Coventry having an Interest in the Shabander, he compell'd the Man's Wife to pay for the Opium, under the Name of Gold ; for so Mr. Coventry call'd it. The Shabander chid Mr. Coventry for smuggling with an Inferiour, when he might have done it better with him ; but stood his Friend in compelling the Woman, 88 H HARD BARGAIN— RATTAN CABLES ■ ^BDUgh unjustly, to pay for the Opium. 1 saw this aHi' ^Batch-man on board his own Vessel, when he had bought '^ ^Bm Opium, and he was very pensive and sad. He had a ^Tiretty fine House without the Gates, and a Garden which . maintained his Family with Pot-Herbs, Sallading,and Fruits, J bniJc* some for the Market. This was managed by his I ^|Wifc, and he himself had two Sloops, and either imployed I Hmm in Trading among the Malayans for Pepper, carrying I Ifcefn such Commodities as they wanted, especially Opium, I *ar by hiring himself and Sloop to the Dutch East-India ' Company, to go whither they would send him. It was not loTg since he had been at the Spice Islands with Rice, which he y>ld at a profiublc Rate : but he told me he was not . sufft-ed to bring any Spice from thence, except eight or | oen K-und for his own spending ; neither was there so I much t'ofit thai way for him, as by trading at Home I ^mong the Malayans, cither on the Coast of Malacca or I -■amatra. For though he and other free Men are not I iffirred to trade for themselves to any Places where the I company have Factories, or Guard-ships, yet they could I Tind Trade enough nearer Home, and by this Trade the I hreemen of Malacca pick up a good Livelihood. It was J >io [his Home Trade that he was now bound, and the ■ ijrkum had hecn very beneficial to him, had it been good : I t*ut be went away and ordered his Wife not to pay for it, I but left Mr. Coventry to uke it again ; and upon the I Shafaandcr'k com[Klling her to take it and pay for it, she I complained they were utterly undone, for the Opium, when 1 It came to be examined was really very bad, and worth 1 little or nothing. ' Here Mr. Coventry bought Iron-Bars, Arack, Canes, lad Rattans, wherewith we loaded our Vessel, which was I now set afloat again. The Dutch brought most of our [_Goods aboard, atwd were more kind than I expected, for j icy had not uicd to trade with us, and I believe the News I our Revolution in England had sweetened them ; for ■ ofwn drank the Konings Health with us very rtily. While we were here we made two new Cables of each of them four Inches about. Our Captain 89 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. bought the Rattans, and hired a Chinese to woiiL them, '^ who was very expert at making such wooden Cables. These Cables I found serviceable enough after, in mooring the Vessel with either of them ; for when I carried out the Anchor, the Cable being thrown out after me, swam like G>rk in the Sea ; so that I could see when it was tight, which we cannot so well discern in oiu- Hemp Cables, whose Weight sinks them down : nor can we carry them out but by placing two or three Boats at some Distance asunder, to buoy up the Gible, while the Long-Boat rows out the Anchor. To conclude with Malacca, oiu- Goods being all aboard, we filfd our Water ; and got all in a Readiness for our Departure back again. 90 CHAP. IX Tif 4»tk»r Jfparti /rwn Malutca. Thty Use a Yard, and rtlurn I rrfit, Th*jf ul tut again, and run en a Shale, hut gel iff with the FU»d. PhU Sampling, They lose their Mfzm-yard, and put PimM Pmit Dinding. The Jttand and Fart described ; The oppasite Cma. Tmtaiug, a Sort »f Tin> The Enmity between the Dutch hirtf and the Malayan) en the Caoil. A Rencounter with them. They /eav* Pula Dinding and arrive at Aehtn. The Escape cf a^iu EigSth Priioneri out of Bengal, The Author sets out again frun Aihin^ and arrives at Fort St. George. Its pleaiant Prospect, He f*» iheKe It Bencsuh in Sumatra. Its sight at Sea. Point of SiUaimr. The SituatUn of Bencouli, Houses, Ifealher, Soil, Fruits, Jnisitah, and Inhabitants. The Pepper Trade here and elsewhere, Tht frit SettUment of the English here. The Fort, and Usage of tlu Nmtrves. The Comlufion of the Supplement. rE departed frnm Malacca towards Achin about an. the Middle of November 1689. Mr. Coven- "689 try being weary of Captain Minchin's Com- pany, had bought a small Vessel of 7 or 8 ^utft, and laded her also with the same Kind of Goods. . he commanded himself, having a Portuguese Pilot, I 3 or 4 Mariners under him, and we sec out both Ships I Company together. Wc had now in Captain Minchin's nf bat 2 white Men, the Captain and i, the Boatswain ang gone with Mr. Coventry; but we took in as a Pancnger one Mr. Richards an Englishman, who having iatdy marriod ■ Dutch Woman at Malacca, came aboard ta with ber, to go as Passengers to Achin with us. Wt had I Land-Wind in the Morning and about cleren a Oock had the Wind at N. W. a pretty strong GUe : and at rwelvc our Fore-yard broke in the Middle. We made sigoi to Mr. Covcntr)- tu bear down to us ; who ^ 9' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN- weighing before was a Mile to Windward of us; but he '^^j' kept on, fearing to return, as having bought his Ship there bv Stealth : and we therefore returned alone into Malacca Road. As soon as we anchcHied, Mr. Richards was sent ashore to buy a new Yard ; I gave him the Length and Bigness. It was Evening before he came aboard again, and he brought aboard an old Yard much too big and too long for us. This Piece I shcHtned and shaped to my Mind, and by twelve a Clock at Night, had it fixed and slung, rigg*d and the Sail bent to it. Then we weighed again having a small Land Wind; but the Tide of Flood was against us, and drove us to the Eastward. When the Ebb came we jogg'd on, and got about three Leagues, anchoring when the Flood came, because the Winds were against us. Thus we continued plying with the Ebb, and anchoring every Flood, till we came to Pulo Parselore, where the Captain told me he would not go out the same way we came in, as I would have persuaded him, but kept the Malacca Shore aboard, and past within the Sholes. But in a few Hours after we ran upon a Shole, driven on it by the Tide of Flood, which here set to the Eastward, tho' by our reckoning it should have been half Ebb, and the Flood should have set West- ward, as we had it all the rest of the way from Malacca: but the Sholes probably caused some whirling about of the Tide. However, the Sand we were stuck upon was not above lOO Yards in Circumference, and the Flood being rising we waited the Time of high Water, and then drove over it, having sent our Boat to discover how the Sholes lay, while our Ship was a-ground : Mr. Richards all the while being in great Fear, lest the Malayans should come off in their Boats and attack the Vessel. We were now afloat again, and soon got without all the Sholes : yet we did not stand over towards Sumatra, but coasted along nearest the Malacca Shore, it being now most proper for us so to do ; yet for having the Winds westerly, we could not have beat under the other Shore. 2 or 3 Days after this we had sight of some Islands called Pulo Sambilong, which in the Malayan Language signifies 92 POLO DINDING— THE FORT nine Iilimls t}it:rc being so many of them, !>nng scattering H uDSfual Distances from each other. It was near one of '^ tbcK Islands, that Captain Minchln in a former Voyage w» like to lose his Hand by a Prick with a Cai-fishes Fin, u I tuvc said tn my former Vol. p. 172, and tho* his Hand was cured, yet he has lost the use of it ever since ; lai a never likely to regain it more. \Vc stood in pretty near the Shore, in Hopes to gain a froc Land Wind. About ten a Clock the Land Wind a« off, a gentle Breeze, and wc coasted along the Shore. But 1 imall Tornado coming off from the Shore about Mitbighi, we broke our Mizcn Yard, and being near a Dmch Island called I'ulo Dinding, wc made in for ii, and aadurcd there the Night ensuing, and found there a Owch Sloop, mann'd with about thirty Soldiers, at an uuhoe. Thii is a small Island lying so nigh the Main, that .Ship* [asstng by cannot know it to b<j an Island. It is Getty high Land and well watered with Brooks. The (Mild is blackish, deep and fat in the lower Ground : but the HilU arc tomcwhat rocky, yet in general very woody. The Trees are of divers Sorts, many of which are good Timber, and large enough for any Use. Here are also lome good for Masts and Yards; they l)eing naturally fight, yet tough and serviceable. There is good Riding •a the East-stdc. between the Island and the Main. You nay cuOK in with the Sea Breeze, and go out uith a Land 'A'ind, there is Water enough, and a secure Harbour. The Dutch, who arc the only Inhabitants, have a Fort .0 ihc Kaat-side, close by the Sea, in a Bending of the md, which makes a small Cove for Ships to anchor in. : Fort is built 4 square, without Flankers or Bastions, r a House: every Si^uare is about ten or twelve Yards. r WalU arc of a good Thickness, made of Stone, and ' ' up to a good Heighth, of about thirty Foot, and i over Head like a dwelling House. There may r about twelve or fourteen Guns in it, some looking out it every Square. These Guns are mountetl on a strong FUtftrm, made within the Walls, about sixteen Foot high 93 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and there are Steps on the Outside to ascend to the Docm* ^^^ that opens to the Platform, there being no other way into the Fort. Here is a Governour and about twenty or thirty Soldiers, who all lodge in the Fort. The Soldiers have their Lodging in the Platform among the Guns, but the Governour has a fair Chamber above it, where he lies with some of the Officers. About a hundred Yards from the Fort on the Bay by the Sea, there is a low timbered House, where the Governour abides all the Day Time. In this House there were two or three Rooms for their Use, but the chiefest was the Governour's Dining-Room. This fronted to the Sea, and the End of it looked towards the Fort. There were two large Windows of about seven or eight Foot square ; the lower part of them about four or five Foot from the Ground. These Windows were wont to be left open all the Day, to let in the refreshing Breeze ; but in the Night, when the Governour withdrew to the Fort, they were closed with strong Shutters, and the Doors made fast till the next day. The Continent of Malacca opposite to the Island, is pretty low champion Land, cloathed with lofty Woods; and right against the Bay where the Dutch Fort stands, there is a navigable River for small Craft. The product of the Country thereabouts, besides Rice and other Eatables, is Tutaneg, a sort of Tin ; I think courser than ours. The Natives are Malayans, who, as I have always observed, are bold and Treacherous : yet the Trading People are affable and courteous to Merchants. These are in all respects, as to their Religion, Custom, and manner of Living, like other Malayans. Whether they are governed by a King or Raja, or what other manner of Government they live under, I know not. They have Canoas and Boats of their own, and with these they fish and traffick among themselves : but the Tin Trade is that which has formerly drawn Merchant Strangers thither. But tho* the Country might probably yield great quantities of this Metal, and the Natives are not only inclinable, but very desirous to trade with Strangers, yet are they now restrained by the Dutch, who have monopolized that Trade 94 tOTANEG A SORT OF TIN p tlieauctves. It was probably for the lucre of this Trade t the Dutch built the Fort on the Island ; but this not ' ily answering their ends, by reason of the distance een it and the Rivers mouth, which is about 4 or 5 Cla, they have also 2 Guard-ship commonly lying here, i a Sloop with 20 or 30 armed Men, to hinder other binns from this Trade. For this Tutaneg or Tin is \ nlaable Commodity in the Bay of Bengal, and here reasonably, by giving other Commodities in ex- je: neither is this Commodity peculiarly found here- »cs, but farther Northerly also on the Coast ; and darly in the Kingdom of Queda there is much of it : E Dutch also commonly keep a Guard-ship, and have 'c Mme fruitless Essays to bring that Prince and his I to trade only with them ; but here over against ding, no Strangers dare approach to Trade ; neither Uj any Ship come in hither but with consent of the fetdi. Thotfore as soon as we came to an Anchor at It East-end of the Island, we sent our Boat a-shore to the DOur, to desire leave to wood, water, and cut a new He granted our request, and the Boat re- ■gain aboard, and brought word also that Mr. Ctmntry touched here to water, and went out that Mwning. The next Morning betimes Captain Minchin ! a-shore to cut a Yard. I applyed my self to the nur, and desired one of his Soldiers might go with i shew me the best Timber for that use ; but he himself, saying, that his Soldiers were all busie tit, but that I might go and cut any Tree that 1 So I went into the Woods, where I saw abundance ' fine strait Trees, and cut down such a one as I jht fit for my Turn : and cutting it of a just length, 1 fltiipping off the Bark, I left it ready to be fetcht , and iTtumed to the Fort, where I dined with the ico^our. PreKntly after Dinner, our Captain, with Richards and his Wife came a-shorc, and I went The Governour met them at Landing, and con- 1 them into the Dining-Room I spoke of, where they I the Governour with Punch, made of Brandy, Sugar, 95 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and Lime-juice, which they brought with them from aboard : '^ for here is nothing, not so much as the Govemour s Drink, but what is brought from Malacca: no Herbs or Fruit growing here: but ail is either fetched from Malacca, or is brought by the Malayans from the Main. It is not through any sterility in the Soil, for that is very fat and fruitful : neither is it through laziness of the Dutch, for that is a Vice they are not guilty of: but it is from a continual fear of the Malayans, with whom tho' they have a Commerce, yet dare they not trust them so far, as to be ranging about the Island in any work of Husbandry, or indeed to go far from the Fort, for there only they are safe. But to return to the Governour, he, to retalliate the Captains and Mr. Richard's kindness, sent a Boat a fishing, to get some better Entertainment for his Guests, than the Fort yielded at present. About four or five a-Clock the Boat returned with a good Dish of Fish. These were immediately drest for Supper, and the Boat was sent out again to get more, for Mr. Richards and his Lady to carry aboard with them. In the mean time the Food was brought into the Dining-Room, and placed on the Table. The Dishes and Plates were of Silver, and there was a Silver Punch-Bowl full of Liquor. The Governour, his Guests, and some of his Officers were seated, but just as they began to fall to, one of the Soldiers cried out, Malayans, and spoil'd the Entertainment ; for immediately the Governour, without speaking one word, leapt out of one of the Windows, to get as soon as he could to the Fort. His Officers followed, and all the Servants that attended were soon in Motion. Every one of them took the nearest way, some out of the Windows, others out of the Doors, leaving the 3 Guests by themselves, who soon followed with all the haste they could make, without knowing the meaning of this sudden Consternation of the Governour and his People. But by that time the Captain and Mr. Richards and his Wife were got to the Fort, the Governour, who was arrived before, stood at the door to receive them. As soon as they were entred the Fort, the Door was shut, all the Soldiers and Servants being within 96 ■ an alarm from the MALAYANS | ^■ready: nor was any Man suffered to fetch away the an. Victaals, or any of the Plate : but they fired several Guns '^ to give notice to the Malayans thai they were ready for them; but none of them came on. For this Uproar was •ccasioncd by a Malayan Canoa full of armed Men that lay I .itulliing under the Island, close by the Shore : and when I ux Dutch Boat went out the second time to fish, the 1 MiUyins set on them suddenly, and unexpected, with their I Crtsicu and Lances, and killing one or two, the rest leapt I OTerbwrd, and got away, for they were close by the Shore ; I tad they having no Arms were not able to have made any I miatncc. It was about a Mile from the Fort : and being I luiJed. every one of them made what haste he could to the i-iwi, and the first that arrived was he who cried in that manner, and frighted the Governour from Supper. Our &»i was at this time a-shorc for water, and was filling it in 1 Mnall Brook by the Banquetting-house. I know not I ■helher our Boats Crew took notice of the Alarm, but the Dutch call'd to them ; and bid them make haste aboard, *)&ch they did ; and this made us keep good watch all N'igbl, having all our Guns Inaden and primed for Service. Bui it rained so hard all the night, that 1 did not much | 'car being attack'd by any Malayan ; being inform'd by -■neof our Sea-men, whom we took in at Malacca, that the MiUyans seldom or never make any attack when it rains. i It ii what 1 had before observed of other Indians, both (■JSt and West : and tho" then they might make their Amcks with the greatest advantage on Men arm'd with Hind-guns, yet I never knew It practised ; at which I i»Te wondered ; for it is then we most fear them, and they '"'jbl then be most successful, because their Arms, which ft usually Lances and Cressets, which these Malayans had, :oul(t not be damaged by the Rain, as our Guns would be. Bat they annot endure to be in the Rain : and it was in the Kreaing. before the Rain fell, that they assaulted the ['-Ich Beat. The next Morning the Dutch Sloop weighed, ■iweni to look after the Malayans; but having sailed ■ -Jut the Island, and seeing no Enemies, they anchored ■nin. I also sent Men ashore in our Boat to bring off the I VOL iJ. 97 o I CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Mizen-yard that I had cut the Day before : But it was so '^ heavy a kind of Timber, that they could not bring it out of the Woods. Giptain Minchin was still ashore, and he being acquainted with it, desired the Govemour to send a Soldier, to shew our Men what Trees were best for our use : Which he did^ and they presently cut a small Tree, about the bigness and length of that which I cut, and brought it aboard. I immediately went to work, and having fitted it for use, bent my Sail, and hoised it up in its place. In the Evening Captain Minchin and Mr. Richards and his Wife came aboard, having staid one Night at the Fort ; and told me all that hapned to them ashore. We now waited only for a Land Wind to carry us out The former part of the Night we had much Rain, with Thunder and Lightning ; but no Wind. At one a-Clock we had a small Land Wind, and got up our Anchors. We got out before Day clear of the Island, and we steered along shore to the Northward, intending to keep this shore aboard for 20 or 30 Leagues farther, if the Winds did not favour us ; for the Sea Winds were now at N. W. This Day we kept near the shore, and the Night ensuing ; but the next Day the Wind coming at N. and N. N. E. we stood over for Sumatra, and the next Evening we past by Diamond Point : And the Wind coming at E. N. E. wc got, in about 2 Days more to Achin, about the end of November 1689. Here we found Mr. Coventry, who had got hither 2 or 3 Days before us. Captain Minchin went ashore with his Passengers, and was discharged of his Command. I kept aboard till all the Goods were unladen, and then lay ashore, and was very sick for a Fortnight of a kind of Fever. But after Christmas I was sent aboard again, by order of Mr. Coventry, who had then bought out Mr. Dalton*s and Capt. Tiler s Shares, to take the Charge of the Vessel, which he had then laded with Pepper, Cubebs (which I think grow somewhere in Sumatra) and Tutanegg, which he bought of an English Vessel that came from Queda to Achin ; and with these he had also some 98 THE AUTHOR SAILS FROM ACHIN ■i our Mal»cc* Cargo, which wc kept on board, viz. ak. Rattwis and Walking-Cancs. With this Car^o we were ^^ bound for Fort St. George. We took in also 2 English Piisengcn, who had escaped out of Prison in the Mogul's C'luntry. The one bclong'd to the Defence, Capt. Heath*s SVip, which I came home to England in afterwards ; he »u Pirncr of it : the other was a Midshipman in the i^Ktai jHa, which rctum'd to England at the same Time. But during our War with the Mogul these Ships had been :n the Bajr of Bengal, to fetch away our Effects from the R. rf Hugly. These 2 Men, with 2 or 3 others, went lihore upon some Occasion, and were taken Prisoners t^ the Mogul's Subjects; who sent them a great way up •T.Vi the Country, where they were kept in close Custody, iTiA often ihreatned with Death. The old Anabob, or (iwtniQur of the Province, being remov'd, and a new one coming thither, he released these Men, and gave them ■ave to go to the Sea-side, where finding a Dutch Ship iwund to Bauvia, these 2 and one more, went aboard her, :ierest getting other Passage: But she meeting with that Ef^ish Ship coming from Queda, which brought the Tutanc^ I but now mentioned to Achin, they left the Dutch Ship, and went to Achin with the other English ' ^'okI; and those 2 were now for going with us to Fort St George. Twas about Ncw-ycare Day, 1690, that wc set out I in«i Achin again : We steered away toward the Nicobar ■^hnds, and atmc in sight of that, which I had been ^^■ncriy set ashore upon. But leaving it on our Star- ^^hrd, Wc ttood more Northerly up into the Bay ; for by ^Hfc Corentry I had learnt there were Northerly and North ^^■uHy Winds in the Bay at this time of Year. We stood WKkr therefore as high as Pallacat ; and having then a fair i^V E. Wind, Wc run along the Coast till wc came before r rt St. Gecrgc, which was about the middle of January. 1 was much pleased with the beautiful prospect this ice makes off at Sea. For it stands in a plain Sandy "t of Ground, close by the shore, the Sea sometimes vxWiiog its Walls, which| are of Stone and high, with ~ 99 ~ L. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES An. Half-Moons and Flankers, and a great many Guns mounted '^"^ on the Battlements : so that what with the Walls and fine Buildings within the Fort, the large Town c^ Maderas without it, the Pyramids c^ the English Tombs, Houses, and Gardens adjacent, and the variety c^ fine Trees scatter*d up and down, it makes as agreeable a Landskip as I have any where seen. But 'tis not my design to enter into a Description of a place so well known to my Country-men as tlus is. It may sufiice to have mentioned it; and that after some Months stay here, and meeting with Mr. Moody and Jeoly the Painted Prince, I prepared to go for Sumatra again ; to Bencouli, as I have said in my former Vol. p. 495. I set out from Fort St. Geoige with Captain Howel in July 1 690, we steered a pretty way along the Coast of Coromandel, before we stood over for Sumatra; and then made the best of our way for Bencouli. I have in that Volume spoken of my Arrival there ; but having given no account of the place, I shall do it briefly now, and so shut up tins Supplement. Bencouli lies on the West Coast of the Island of Sumatra, in about 4 d. S. Lat. It is a place noted enough at Sea ; by Reason of a high slender Hill in the Country. It has a small Island before it within which Ships ride. The Point of Sillabar lies 2 or 3 Leagues to the Southward of it, and runs out farther than any part of the Shore, making a small Bay within it. Besides these marks, when you come within 2 or 3 Leagues of the Shore, you'll sec the English Fort fronting to the Sea, which makes a fine show : On the N. W. of the Fort is a small River, at the Mouth of which is a large Store-house to put Pepper in. About a quarter of a Mile from the Sea stands a small Indian Village, close by the River, on the same side that the Fort is on, and but a small distance from it. The Houses are small and low, all built on Posts, after the Malayan manner, as at Mindanao and Achin ; for *tis a Swamp that the Town stands on : But the Malayans usually choose to build in such low places near Rivers, for the convenience of washing themselves, which they greatly 100 BENCOtJtl— WEATHER— SOIL ight in; as 'tis indeed a part of their Religion as inomctans : And if they can, they will have thetr Houses '^ i on Po«5 over the River. ■ Weather here is none of the pteasantcst. There *n great Rains chiefly m September, October, and November, and pretty great Heats. But when the Wind Hm hard, which 'twould often do, the Air would be drill: And the Sea-breezes in fair Weather were generally pretty fresh and comfortable. The Land-winds coming 'KW Swamps, usually brought a Stink with them. 'Tis in gnitral an unhealthy Place ; and the Soldiers of the Fort ^vt ijckly and died very fast. On ihe South side of the t'oR is a fair champion Savannah, of a Mile or 2 Square, olleni Greenhii. It jM-oduces long thick Grass: The V W. part of it fronts the Sea, and the S. E. is bounded »ith lofty Woods. The Soil of this 0>untry is very different, according to iaiilfemi position: For within Land 'tis hilly, yet those Hilli arc clothed with Trees; which shews it to be fruitful I awugh. The low Lind, near the River, especially near [ Ac Sea, i» iwampy, producing nothing but Reeds, or Braboes: But the higher Ground, which is of a reasonable ^eighth, is very fruitful. The Mould is deep, and is nther black or yellow ; and in some places Clay ; or such Mould as is very proper for making Bricks. The Trees in the WiKxis are mostly large bodied, «aight and tall : They arc of divers sorts, some or other ■T them 6t for any uses. The Fruits of the Country are Tiuch the same as at Achin and Malacca, viz. Limes, '.>ni)gcs. Guava's, Plantains, Bonanoes, Coco-Nuts, Jacks, Uumns, Mangoes, Mangastans ; Pomkins, Pine-apples, and Pepper. The Roots are Yams, and Potatoes; Rice {TOWS here pretty well also; but whether the Natives sow gh for their own spending or no, I know not. The : Animals arc Buffaloes, Bullocks, Deer, Wild Hogs, upuics. Guanoes, Lizards, &c. The tame Fowls are and Dunghil Fowls, both in great plenty. The are Parrots, Parakitcs, Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, t ton of smaller Birds. loi CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS, The Natives also!are swarthy|lndian5^ like thdr Neigh- '^ boars of Achin. They are slender, straught, active, and industrious. They are sodable and dearous c^ Trade; but if they are affronted, they are treacherous and revenge- ful. They live together in Towns, and speak the Malayan Language : Conforming themselves in their Habit, Food, and Customs to other Malayans; who are all, so far as I learnt, of the Mahometan Religion. There are some Mechanicks among them; a few Smiths: But most oi them are Carpenters, and let themselves out to hire to the English at the Fort. The Hatchets they work with are such as they use at Mindanao, so contrived as to serve also for an Adds. Here are also Fishermen, who get a liveli- hood by Fishing ; and there are several sorts of Fish on the Coast, besides plenty of Green Turtle: Such of the Malayans as live near the English Fort are usually em- ployed in the East-India Companies Service, to work for them : but the Country People are most Husbandmen. They plant Roots, Rice, Pepper-bushes, &c. Pepper is the chief vendible CommocUty in this Country, it thrives very well on all the Coast; but the greatest quantity of what is exported from hence, is either brought down this River out of the Country, or fetched from Sillabar, or other places bordering on the Sea in small Vessels. Pepper grows plenty in other places of thb Island ; as at Indrapore, Pangasanam, Jamby, Bancalis, &c. It grows also on the Island Java, on the Coast of Malacca, Malabar, Cochinchina, &c. The Coast of Malabar is said to produce the best ; or at least there the Natives take most care to have the best, by letting it grow till it is full ripe ; for which reason it is larger and fairer than here where they gather it too soon, to avoid losing any : for as soon as it grows ripe *tis apt to shed, and fall in waste to the ground. It was the Pepper Trade that drew our English Merchants to settle here. For after Bantam ^ was lost, our English, who were wont to trade thither for this Sjrice, ' In 1683; but for some years before, the Dutch had hindered our merchants in the English factory there. 102 PEPPER— ITS GROWTH AND TRADE WOT it a great|loss to regain the Pepper Trade, which now ailI wji in a manner fallen with the other sorts of Spice into '^ ibt hands of the Dutch : tho' the Pepper which we were »ccii 10 fetch from Bantam did not all grow on this Island Jiu, nor perhaps the tenth part of it ; for as 1 have been •.fiformed it came most from Sumatra, particularly from Bcncoftly, and the adjacent parts. For this Reason it bc- homi our Merchants to get an Interest here to prop up their declining Trade. Yet, as I have been told, the Kxcas was more owing to the Natives of this place than ibnuselves; for that some of the Kaja's of the Country sea: Ambassadors to Fort St. George to invite the English hitiier to take possession, before the Dutch should get it; ' ' 1 are never slack to promote their Interest, and were r setting out on the same design. But however that i; the English had the good fortune to get hither first : igh «> narrowly, that the Dutch were within an ace of nting them, their Ships being in sight before our Men (■shore. But the Dutch coming thus too late, were put hf thdr designs; for the English immediately got ashore iomc Guns, and stood ready to defend their interest. This night happen about the Year 1685, as I was informed; f'vr they told me it was 5 or 6 Years before 1 came hither: ind the English immediately fortified themselves. The Fort * as I said before, fronts to the Sea, and stands about 100 paces from the River. There has been a great deal of cost bestowed on it, but to little purpose; for 'tis the most trrcguUr piece 1 ever saw. 1 told the Governour the best my was to new-model it, and face it with Stone or Brick, eitbcr of which might be easily had. He said he 'iked my Council, but being saving tor the Company, he -ithcr chose to repair it, by the making some Alterations : * AJaaaia Hamilton tayi thai it wi fc umJ Smm WaIK in that Country ca « at the Earth »n «> fici^uent." TTic Govetuor, who 3 called Yurk Fort ; and that iiioi long continue firm, because The East India Company paid aged ihc fort so "somly" 4«HC I>aiDfl«er'» star, *" "oae Mi. Sowdonl*' who was "not very fit te that Cfawn. bKause a( his intcmMmte drinking.' He was recalled yra^M ts HamilKw aad "citbtr dyed or was killed" accordlnt; to Dta^A Mllar*" Mnchuil. Hamilton addi that " another' w-js "sent 103 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. but Still to as little purpose, for 'twas all made ground, and ^^ having no facing to keep it up, 'twould moulder away every wet Season, and the Guns often fall down into the Ditches. What was possible to be done I endeavoured to do while I was there. I made the Bastions as regular as I could upon the Model they were made by : And whereas the Fort was designed to be a Pentagone, and there were but 4 of the Bastions made, I staked out ground for a 5 th, and drew a Plan of it, which I gave the Government ; and had I staid longer I should have made up the other Bastion : but the whole Plan is too big by half for so sorry a Garrison : and the best way of mending it, is to demolish all of it, and make a new one. The Fort was but sorrily governed when I was there ; nor was there that care taken to keep a fair Correspondence with the Natives in the Neighbourhood as I think ought to be, in all Trading places especially. When I came thither there were 2 Neighbouring Raja's in the Stocks, for no other Reason, but because they had not brought down to the Fort such a quantity of Pepper as the Governour had sent for. Yet these Raja's rule in the Country, and have a considerable number of Subjects ; who were so exasperated at these Insolencies, that, as I have since been informed, they came down and assaulted the Fort, under the Conduct of one of these Raja's. But the Fort, as bad as it is, is Guard enough against such indifferent Soldiers as they are : who tho' they have Courage enough, yet scarce any Arms besides Back-swords, Cressets, and Lances, nor Skill to use Artillery, if they had it. At another time they made an Attempt to surprize the Fort, under pretence of a Cock- match ; to which they hoped the Garrison would come out to share in the Sport, and so the Fort left with small Defence. For the Malayans here are great lovers of Cock- fighting, and there were about 1000 of them got together about this Match, while their armed Men lay in ambush. But it so hapned, that none of the Garrison went out to the Cock-match, but one John Necklin, a Dane, who was a great Gamester himself: And he discovering the Ambush, 104 CONCLUSION gave notice of it to the Govemour, who was in disorder an. enough upon their Approach : But a few of the great '^ Guns drove them away. I have nothing more to add but what concerns my self; which is not so material, that I should need to trouble the Reader with it, I have said in my former Volume, p. 503, upon what Motives I left Bencouli : And the particulars of my Voyage thence to England are also in that Volume : So that I may here conclude this Supplement to my Voyage round the World. 105 MR. DAMPIER'S VOYAGES TO THE BAY OF CAMPEACHY VOL. II. PART II ONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THE BAY OF CAMPEACHY IN THE WEST-INDIES, AND PARTS ADJACENT. CHAP. I Thf jimhtt't firtt ping ts Sta, l« France, ta Ntvjfeundland^ and after U iht Eail-lndia. His Ulting tut fir th* fP^tst-Iniiiei. Of St. /jKM, ttu Caritif-lnJiani, and Captain Warner. He arrivet at lamaiiu ; Hii Abtad and Travels there, and first yoyagi ft CamftaJtj. The East and Narth of Jiualan deitriied. Key- J/«<vrc, Cape-Cainh, and in Logwetd-cutling. The Mount and itt Salt-fetrt Earth. The Indian Towns, the Tarpem-Fiih, Frdurwuit, and La^huls. Rto dt la Gartts, Sall-Pends, Selam, Sim/t '*d Cafe Ctndecedc, His first Jrrival at Island Triil, in tit Say if Camfiaihy. Hit anthoring at One-Bush-Key, and Emiertainmnt amang the Lagwood'Cutters. Tki escape tf faur E^Sik Prisaturj frtm Afexiia, and Campeaehy. He returns fir Jmrnaicat mad it ihaud hy twa Spanish fisiels. The difficulty ^ <*«r Patiage Ud, and His folfsngfiul af the Aleranes Isles. The Bmtia amd Egg-Birdi there, Uc. Stuard-Fith, Nurses, Seals, irfc Cf Captain Lutg and athin Ship-vurack'd here. The Saundings h^tmimt : He fatieth thraugh the Celarada Shaals, and anthart 107 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^ TOTAGES fuar Cape Si, Amamxa ok Cmv ; smd * m \iimg im tkr Idm P'tmu anchors at Ae Ulamd sf G^mmd KinmmmL Bt ma kac anchnri at liland PhteSy its Pndmcz, Mjomti^ L dt m i C rwki^ Croad'iiiSy CattUj r^c Hm ^tmrnis ^m Jmt oigBm^ mmi. n hdp 4/ a uasanabU Ssrtk Wtmi^ afur mmdt j^EauN> arwn Jamaica. MONG other Thxngs lefeiiel to in my fo Volume, I mendoaed an Accoant I intends give of the Bay of CampeachT, where I \ first and last aboat 3 Tears. I sitall now charge my self of that Promise ; and becaose my ( pcacny Voyages were in order of Time, before that R the Wrjrld, I shall upon this occasion go so far ha< tri sfHralc briefly of my first going to Sea, and the R^ml made till my setting out for Campeachy. My Friends did not originally design me for the but bred mc at School till I came to Years fit for a T But uprjn the Death of my Father and Mother, they had the disprjsal of me, took other Measures ; and ha rcmrived me from the Latin School to learn Writing Arithmeticlc, they soon after placed me with a Mast a Ship at Weymouth, complying with the Inclinatic had very early of seeing the World : With him I ma >ih(irt Voyage to France: and returning thence, wen Newfoundland, being then about eighteen Years of In thin Voyage I spent one Summer; but so pinched the rltfour of that cold Climate, that upon my reti] WttH almolutely against going to those parts of the W but went home again to my Friends, Yet going while after to London, the offer of a warm Voyage a: long one, both which I always desired, soon carried n Sea again. Iu)r hearing of an outward-bound East-] Man, the "John and Martha of London, Captain Eai C^onirnandcr, I entered my self aboard, and was empl l)cforc the Mast, for which my two former Voyages sonic way qualified me. We went directly for Banta the IhIc of Java, and staying there about two Mo came home again in little more than a Year ; touchiti 108 1 THE AUTHOR'S FIRST GOING TO SEA I Sljigo of the Cape Verd Islands at our going out, and at an. I Aianaon in our return. In this Voyage I gained more '^iJ Etpcricnce in Navigation, but kept no Journal. We I ivtd at Plymouth about two Months before Sir Robert I Holmes 'went out to fall upon the Dutch Smyrna Fleet: I i the second Dutch Wars ' breaking out upon this, I I e going to Sea that Summer, retiring to my Brother I I Sootcrsctshirc. But growing weary of staying ashore, I fnttd my self on board the Royal Prince, commanded I » Sir Edward Sprague,' and served under him in the I or 1673, being the last of the Dutch War. We had I Engagements that Summer ; I was in two of I , but falling very sick, I was put aboard an Hospital I B[i k Day or two before the third Engagement, seeing I »t a distance only ; and in this Sir Edward Sprague 1 t killed. Soon after I was sent to Harwich with the I t of the Sick and Wounded : And having languished I KK while, I went home to my Brother to recover my j iK. J B)i this time the War with the Dutch was concluded ; I id with my Health, 1 recovered my old Inclination for J l« Sea. A neighbouring Gentleman, Colonel Hellier of I w-Cockcr in Somersetshire, my Native Parish, made me I kasooable Offer to go and manage a Plantation of his in I ■uca, under one Mr, Whalley : for which Place I set 1 ■ litb Cipt. Kent in the Content of London. I I WIS then about 22 Years old, and had never been in I *WeK-Indica; and therefore, lest I might be trepann'd ' I il told as a Servant after my Arrival in Jamaica, I agreed I til Captain Kent to work as a Seaman for my Passage, I ni hid il under his Hand to be cleared at our first I frivil, Wc sailed out of the River Thames in the I Ipflning of the Year 1674, and meeting with favourable I &r Roben Hobnea (1611-1691} anacked the "Dutch Smyrna Fleei" I M inh of March t6;i-3 : (tncTconTmucd the action lh« (by follon-ins. I Th> &nt " Dntcb War** buleil froRi 1664-j uniil i667. I ' Sir Edward Sptas^t!. Tb« three rneai^craenU were fought on May 2S, ■ Kj^and AttpiU 11- Id llw bit of the Ihrec, Sir Edward Sprii|!(>e was ■ ri M hr rvrtd frnm lt>r f/t^ Prime to (he .SV. Gtorge, I ' " nflered ihif faic. I 109 ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AV. Winds, in a short Time got into the Trade-vind, anc '^^ went merrily along, steering for the Island Barfaadoes When ffe came in sight of it Captain Kent told Ui Passengers, if they woald pay his Port-Charges he woulc anchor in the Road, and stop whilst they got RefSrcshment But the Merchants not caring to part with thor Money he bore away, directing his Coune towards Jantuca. The next Island that appeared in our view was St Lucia. *Tis distant from Bsurbadoes about 30 Leagues and very wealthy in large Timber Trees fit for all uses For this Reason *tis often visted by the English, who stod themselves here with Rollers, &c. They have endeavourec to settle an Englbh Colony there, but hitherto unsuccess- fully, because of the Caribbe-Indtans. The Caribbees are a sort of Warlike Indians, delighting to rove on the Sea in Periagoes or large Canoas. Theii chiefest Habitations are on the Miun; but at certait Seasons of the Year they visit the Islands for their Pleasure Barbadoes was formerly much frequented by them; but since the English settled there they have been forced tc abandon it, and content themselves in their Sea- Voyages, or with such Islands only as are not possessed by the Europeans ; except where they have hopes of conquering ; as they have done at St. Lucia. Near the Main where these Indians live, lies Tabago, which, when it was first settled by the Dutch, was much infested by them. These Indians, as I have heard, had formerly Plantations on most of the Caribbe-Islands ; and in their Sea-Voyages did use to remain three Weeks or a Month at a Time on an Island, and then remove to another ; and so visit most of them before their return to the Main. St. Vincent is another of these Islands lying near St. Lucia : We passed between them ; and seeing a Smoke on St. Lucia, we sent our Boat ashore there. Our Men found some of the Caribbe-Indians, and bought of them Plantains, Bonanoes, Pine-Apples, and Sugar-Canes; and. returning aboard again, there came with them a Canoa with 3 or 4 of the Indians. These often repeated the Word Captain no CARIBBE INDIANS Wjfncr, and seemed to be in some disquiet about him. Wcdid not then understand the meaning of it ; but since I hive been informed that this Captain Warner, whom they woirioncd, was bom at Antego,' one of our English lilwdj, and the Son of Governour Warner,^ by an Indian Womin, and bred up by his Father after the English bobikt; be learned the Indian Language also of his Mother; but being grown up, and finding himself despised 'if htj English Kindred, he forsook his Father's House, Kiwiy to St, Lucia, and there lived among the Caribbe- ians, his Relations by the Mother side. Where con- himself to their Customs he became one of their upoins, and roved from one Island to another, as they Ml- About this Time the Caribbees had done some spoil •i our English Plantations at Antego: and therefore GoreriKnir Warner's Son by his Wife took a Party of Men tod •wit to suppress those Indians, and came to the Place •Iwre his Brother the Indian-Warner lived. Great seem- Joy there was at their Meeting ; but how far it was ibe Event shewed ; for the English -Warner providing of Liquor, and inviting his half-Brother to be merry idi Irim, in the midst of his Entertainment ordered his Kn upon a Signal given to murder him and all his "fiain: which was accordingly performed.* The Reason I ^ inhumane Action is diversly reported ; some say ■t this Indtan-Wamer committed all the Spoil that was ke to the Er^llsh ; and therefore for that Reason his ' ' Old Sir Th. Warner," the Goremor of the Caribbee Islands, "G«t«faar Wvner's ion bj his wife" was Colonel Philip Warner, t of Aatixtn. " After ihe dispurr was over, Colonel Warner K'tmcr AoA hii Indians, 10 inc number of sixty or seventy 1 smI tfciMfCfi to an enlenainmcnl at thanks, and having made c with fum, gave a liKnaj, nnd some of the English fell upon ' ■ ■ (DtjtPSt/ien of William Hamlyn). Colonel Warner I 10 •tand his trbt. and remained a year in the Tower, I finm Uie kinn'* service. At his trial it appeared that was not hi* half'brother : that the Indians slain at the ■r* confederates with (hose thai attacked iisi" thai ihey I bloody malefocion," and that they were killed in Ihii lid, and William Hamlyn was punished for perjury , W>mcr was K«iliy, and that the trial was not rightly I HI air ^H tly ^H CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Brother kiird him and his Men. Others that he was a '^^^ great Friend to the English, and would not suffer his Men to hurt them, but did all that lay in his power to draw them to an amicable Commerce; and that his Brother killed him, for that he was ashamed to be related to an Indian. But be it how it will, he was called in Question for the Murder, and forced to come Home to take his Tryal in England. Such perfidious Doings as these, besides the Baseness of them, are great hindrances of our gaining an Interest among the Indians. Putting from these Islands we steered away further West, and falling in with the East-end of Hispaniola, wc ranged down along on the South Side even to Cape Tiburon, which is the West-end of the Island. There we lay by and sent our Boat ashore ; for Captain Kent had been informed that there were great Groves of Orange-Trees near this Cape; but our Men not finding any, he then concluded there were none : But I have been since informed my self by several that have been there, that there arc enough of them thereabouts.^ From hence we steered away for Jamaica, where we arrived in a short Time, bringing with us the first News they had of the Peace with the Dutch. Here, according to my Contract, I was immediately discharged ; and the next Day I went to the Spanish Town, called Sant' Jago de la Vega;* where meeting with Mr. Whalley, we went together to Colonel Hellier*s Plantation in 1 6 Mile-Walk. In our way thither we past through Sir Thomas Muddiford*s Plantation, at the Angells, where at that Time were Otta and Cacao Trees growing; and fording a pretty large River, we past by the side of it 2 or 3 Miles up the Stream,^ there being high Mountains on each ^ Henry Morgan gathered great numbers here (as anti-scorbutics for his fleet) a few days before he sailed to take Old Providence. ' Sir Hans Sloane makes this note : — " St. Jago dc la Vega, or St James of the Plain, a Town improving every day, *tis the place where the Governor usually resides, and where the Courts of Justice and Records of the Island are Kept. It was very great in the Spaniard's time." 3 "The Road thither (to Sixteen Mile Walk) is by the Water-side 01 along the banks of the Rio Cobre, where there is a Stone under which one passes, as under an Arch " (Sir Hans Sloane, Voyage^ vol. i.). 1X2 MOUNT DIABOLO The way to 1 6 Mile-walk was formerly a great sbout, round a large Mountain ; till Mr- Cary Hellier '^'* I t Coland't Brother, found out this way. For being araus of making out a shorter Cut. he and some others tcaxiai along the River, till they found it run between a R nk that stood up perpendicularly sleep on each side, and wnh much difficulty they climbed over it. But a Dog that belonged to them, finding a hole to creep through the Hutk, luggcstcd to them that there was a hollow Passage ; «d he cleared it by blowing up the Rock with Gun-powder, nil he had made a way through It broad enough for a Hiisc with a Pack, and high enough for a Man to ride through. This is called the Hollow Rock. Some other Rifts he levelled, and made it an indifferent good Passage. He wai a very ingenious Gentleman, and doubtless had iirEvcd, he might have propagated some advantagious Arts "fi ihat UUnd. He was once endeavouring to make Salt- P^-at It the Angclls, but did not bring it to Perfection. \^'h«hcr the Elarth there was not right, I know not ; but ;rohihly there may be Salt-pctre Elarth in other Places, f^Kiiliy about Passage-Fort, where, as I have been in- f'Tiaed, the Canes will not make good Sugar, by Reason of '^ ^lnc» of the Stril, I liv'd with Mr. Whalley at i6 Mile- Walk for almost SI Months, and then cntcr'd my self into the Service of 'ne Captain Kcming, to manage his Plantation at St. Anns, 'C the North-aide of the Island, and accordingly rode from V. Jago de b Vega toward St. Anns. This R(»d has but sorry Accommodations for Travellers, fbe first Night I lay at a poor Hunter's Hut, at the Foot y Mount Dubolo' on the S<iuth-side of it, where for want ■ Qothes to cover me In the Night I was very cold when y Latkd-wind sprang up. f This Mountain is part of the great Ridge that runs k length €»f the Island from East to West ; to the East Lolled the Blew Mountain, which is higher than this. ■ to have iMWfi (be nutom In tlcrp ai ihe foot of Ml. Uiavolo, I ibc IibniL A resl-houM, or huntrt"! hut, provided shelter, fibakviowtti. at " pluiuin and palm -leaves." 113 H CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. The next Day crossing Mount Dkbolo, I got a hard '^^ Lodging at the Foot of it on the North-ade; and the third Day after arrived at dptain Hcming's Plantation. I was clearly out of my Element there, and therefore as soon as dptain Heming ^ came thither I diangaged my self from him, and took my Passage on Board a Sloop to Port-Royal, with one Mr. Statham, who used to trade round the Island, and touched there at that Time. From PcHt-Royal I sailed with one Mr. Fishook, who traded to the North-side of the Island, and somedmes round it : and by these coasting Voyages I came acquainted with all the Ports and Bays about Januuca, and with all their Manufactures ; as also with the Benefit of the Land and Sea-winds. For our Business was to bring Goods to, or carry them from Planters to Port-Royal ; and we were always entertained civilly by them, both in their Houses and Plantations, having Liberty to walk about and view them. They gave us also Plantains, Yams, Potatoes, &c. to carry aboard with us ; on which we fed commonly all our Vovage. But after six or seven Months, I left that Employ also, and shipt my self aboard one Captain Hudsel, who was bound to the Bay of Campeachy to load Logwood. We sailed from Port-Royal about the b^inning of August, 1675, in Company with Captain Wren in a small Jamaica Bark, and Captain Johnson Commander of a Ketch belonging to New-England, This Voyage is all the way before the Wind, and there- fore Ships commonly sail it in twelve or fourteen Days; neither were we longer in our Passage; for we had very fair Weather, and touched no where till we came to Trist Island in the Bay of Campeachy, which is the only place they go to. In our way thither we first sailed by littfc Caimanes, leaving it on our Larboard-side, and Key Mon- brack,* which are two small Islands, lying South of Cuba. The next Land we saw was the Isle of Pines: and * Captain Hemings, or Hemmings, owned the ruins of " the town caUed Sevilla," a fine brick and stone built Spanish city. ' Cayman Brae. 114 ' CAPE CATOCH AND ITS LOGWOOD estUI Westerly, we made Cape Corientes : ' and sailing BSDUth-side of Cuba, till we came to Cape Antonio, ' pthe Wcst-cnd of it, we stretched over towards the ^^ I of Jucatan, and fell in with Cape Catoch, which B ID tKe cxtrcam part of that Promontory towards the Eai. The Land trends from this Cape one way South about I'onr Leagues till you come to the Island Cozumel,^ and trom thence it runs S. \V. down into the Bay of Honduras, .Mfiat ten Leagues from Cape Catoch, between it and Cmumel, lies a small Island called by the Spaniards, Key- Muger,' or Womcns-Island ; because 'tis reported that •ien they went first to settle in these parts they left their ^"ivej there, while they went over on the Main to find some Wter Habitation : Though now they have no Settlement «ir it, whatever they have had formerly. About three Leagues from Cape Catoch, and just ifiinst it is a small Island called * Loggerhead Key ; probably Wiiue it is frequently visited by a sort of Turtle so called : 'or this Island we always find a great Ripling, which ^icmncn call the Rip-raps. This Cape, though it appears to 'k p*rt of the Main, yet is divided from it by a small CfTck, scarce wide enough for a Canoa to pass through, ■ii'iugh by it 'tis made an Island. This I have been -Ttdibly informed of by some, who yet told me that they "^^ide a ihifl to pass it in 3 Canoa. The Cape is vct)' low Land by the Sea, but somewhat *;^facrss you go further from the shore. It is all over- ■Twn with Trees of divers sorts, especially Logwood ; and :.-eforr was formerly much frequented by the Jamaica ) came thither in Sloops to load with it, till all the I near the Sea were cut down ; but now 'tis doncd, because the Carriage of it to the shore L more Labour, than the cutting, legging, and Beudes they find better Wood now in the Bays ' and Honduras, and have but a little way to , not above 300 Paces, when I was there ; whereas • Coiumcl retains its ancient name * I>eThaps CODtoy Ukand. CAFTAIX DAMPIEU^ VOYAGES j^^ zr. Cfcie Qc'jin: tirv -w^rr fond id anar 5: 351 fr-jir Csi^t Ciiiicr wt z'jbsssz ijoog br tic shore, on tit Narir-^:*^ :c Tiiteiex ir^wEro^ Ck:K Caii5coc5oL^ The CvE^t Ikri ntzTss: W-si. Tbt ^f*»'n^ i :y berwoca dicx two '■^-:o*>:»t 2^T -r'aEbit Pocrs or Brnr^n gs ia Ac Land. It b v'XidT bi tit siof*. 2ai f=a] ^x sanzj Bits and lofty Tit rrs: place of sect to rbt Ws: ot Capr Catorh^ is t srsaJj HH: br tit Sra, alTi tic Mocint ; ' and is distant from :t aVjut 1 4 I rag-ass. It k tctt reanarkahic, beciiisc thtrt 2f no orH«r Hogii-Land 00 al] ilis CoKt. I wis fttver ashocTT here, bat lure met with socne w«ll acquainted with tht Pkce, wiK> arc aU of Opissoo that this Mount was n^A natural, but tht Work of Men : And indeed it is very probable this Place has been inhabited ; for here wrc a great many large Cisten^ supposed to hare been made for the receiving of Rain-water, for there arc no fresh ^xii^ to be found ho-e, the Soil being all sandy and very salt. So that, as I have been credibly informed by an intelligent Person, the Spaniards do fetch of it to make Salt-Petre. He also told me, that being once there in a Privateer, and landing some Men on the Bay, they found about 100 Packs of this Karth bound up in Palmeto Leaves ; and a Spanish Mulatto to guard it. The Privateers at first sight of the Packs. were in hopes there had been Maiz or Indian-Corn in them, which they then wanted ; but opening them they found nothing but Earth ; and examining the Mulatto for what use it was, he said to make Powder, and that he expected a Bark from Campeachy to fetch it away. He further told me, that tasting of it he found it very salt ; as all the Earth thereabouts was. So that it is not improbable that those Cisterns were made for the carrying on of Salt-Petre Work. But whatever was the design at first, it is now wholly laid aside : for there is no use made of them ; neither are there any Inhabitants near this Place. * Pt. Piedras. ■ Monte de Cuyo. 116 INDIAN FISHERMEN Between the Mount and Cape Condccedo, close by the ah. ' So, IK many little Spots of Mangrove Trees, which ai a '^S tfixincc appear like Islands: but coming nearer, when other toviT Trees appear, it shows like ragged 2nd broken Gmnd ; but at last all the Land presents it self to your »icw Ttry even. The next place of note on this Coast is Rio de la ' loa,' alnu»t in the mid-way between Cape Catoch and « Condccedo. This also is a very remarkable Place ; for rt ire two Groves of high Mangroves, one on each side the fv, by which it may be known very well. The River is fn mull, yet deep enough for Canoas. The Water is "tod. and I know not any other Brook or fresh River on U the Coast from Cape Catoch till within three or four Eiguc* of Campcachy Town. A little to the East of the River is a Fish-Range, and i small Indian Hutt or two within the Woods ; where the fidian Fishers who are subject to the Spaniards, lye in the Failing -Seasons, their Habitations and Families Ixring tinhcr up in ihc 0)untr)'. Here arc Poles to hang their Ntts 00, and Barbecues to dr)- their Fish. When they go if to Sea, they fish with Hook and Line about four or ■ -c Leagues from the Shore, for Snappers and Gropers, .".ich I have already described in my Voyage round the '>\'arld. Chap. iv. page 118. Since the Privateers and Logwood-ships have sailed '"•• w«T, these Fishcr-men arc very shy, having been often !iy ihcm. So that now when they arc out at Sea, •ce a Sail, they presently sink their Canoas even edge of the Water ; for the Canoas when they are -ir 1,1 Water, will sink no lower, and they themselves lye it with their heads above Water, till the Ship which they ■ ■ is pass'd by Of comes nigh. I have seen them under 'il, and thcj* have thus vanished on a sudden. The Fish •.ich they take near the Shore with their Nets, arc Snooks, ik^-Fiih. and sometimes Tarpoms. Tile Tsrpom is a large scaly Fish, shaped much like a Lapuu de LafajtOK. 117 ^' '• -,r.*^r. Tr-::.^-: tirii ro": t^i? :f th^ Ni: were d {->/'. *:r^:ic i^i-.r-s: thr N^- tr.i =tit Nlin to it V^tr. Nt: i.-.i Fish ':.- hl= Arms, ir.i zt.z ii\ rkst till '-A.r-^ '.'. r.'.'i AsiLsii.iit. B^iies :"-«e w- had thrw ir. i C^r.'/i,. :r. v.h::h thev m:~'d siie-'srivs after the m m I ir^f. th*: Car.oa : And by :hc5^ mear.s we should take i / *T.rKK a* 'iv^y draught. These F:sh are found plcn a.i along that shore from Cape Catoch to Trist, especi i.\Kzr Water, n^^ar sandv Bavs ; but no where in muc rocky Ground. They arc also about Jamaica, and s Coast of the Main ; especially near Carthagena. Wr:st from Rio de la Grartos, there is a Lookn Watch-tower, called Selam. This is a Place close shon:, contrived by the Spaniards for their Indians to in. There arc many of them on this Coast: Some frr>ni the (iround with Timber, others only little Cages on a Tree, big enough for one or two Men to sit in, I -adder to go up and down. These Watch-towers are without an Indian or two all the Day long ; the Indiai live near any of them being obliged to take their tun About three or four Leagues Westward of Sel ' Sil.'in. There is a good spring at this place. ii8 LOOKOUTS AND SALT PONDS twtber W»tch-t>ox^[on s high Tree, called Linchanchee Lookout, from a Urge Indian Town ot that Name, four '*?■ Uigues up in the Country; and two Leagues farther witton Land is another Town called Chinchanchee. I have [ lea uhore at these Lookouts, and have been cither rowing iaiCanoa, or walldr^ ashore on all this Coast, even from L Rio <le U Gmrtos to Cape Cotideccdo: but did never see mWf Town by the Shore, nor any Houses besides Fishing- VHut) on ail the Coast, except only at Sisal. Between n and Linchanchee are many small regular Salt Ponds, lei from each other by little Banks; the biggest Pond Itibovc ten Yards long and six broad. The Inhabitants of these two Towns attend these ids in the Months of May, June, and July to gather the Ut, which supplies all the Inland Towns of these Parts; sd there i^ a skirt of Wood between the Sea and the Pondft. that you can neither see them nor the People at work till you come ashore. Krom these Salt Ponds further West, about three or lour Leagues, is the Lookout called Sisal.^ This is the higben and most remarkable on all the Coast; it stands clo6c by the Sea, and it is built with Timber. This is the tirtt Ot^ct that we make off at Sea; and sometimes we uke It for a Sail, till running nearer we discover the high Mangrove-l'rccs appearing in small Tufts at several litstaJDoes from it. Noc fiu- from hence there is a Fort with forty or fifty !«>klicn to guard the Coast ; and from this place there is a Koad through the Country to the City of Merida. This is the cfaicfcst City in all the Province of Jucatan, it being nbtinted mostly with S[nniards : Yet there are many loitan Families among them, who live in great Subjection, II do the rest of the Indians of this Country. The Province c/ Jucatan, especially this Northern and the most Easterly rmn of it is but indifferently fruitful, in comparison of that nch Soil farther to the West : Yet is it pretty populous of , who all live together in Towns ; but none within SisaL There it a lighthouse bcrc. 119 ^^dbaa, who all live toget ^L • SisaL Ther CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AX. five or six \Iiles of the Sea, except (as I sud) at two of '^5 three Fishing places ; and even there the Indians resort tc fish but at certain Seasons of the Year. Therefore when Privateers come on this Coast, they fear not to land and ramble about, as if they were in their own Country, seeking for Game of any sort, either Fowl or Deer; of both ol which there are great plenty, especially of the latter, though sometimes they pay dear for it : A small Jamaica Privateei once landed six or seven Men at this Lookout of Sisal ; who not suspecting any Danger, ordered the Canoa with three or four Men to row along by the shore, to take them in upon their giving a sign or firing a Gun : But within half an Hour they were attack*d by about forty Spanish Soldiers, who had cut them off from the shore, to whom they surrendered themselves Prisoners. The Spaniards carried them in Triumph to the Fort, and then demanded which was the Captain. Upon this they all stood mute, for the Captain was not among them ; and they were afraid to tell the Spaniards so, for fear of being all hanged for Straglers ; neither did any one of them dare to assume that Title, because they had no Commission with them, nor the Copy of it ; for the Captains don't usually go ashore with- out a Copy at least of their Commission, which is wont to secure both themselves and their Men. ^At last one John Hullock cock'd up his little cropt Hat, and tdd them he was the Captain ; and the Spaniards demanding his Commission, he said it was aboard ; for that he came ashore only to hunt, not thinking to have met any Enemy. The Spaniards were well satisfied with this Answer, and afterwards respected him as the Captain, and served him with better Provision and Lodging than the rest ; and the next day when they were sent to the City of Merida about twelve or thirteen Leagues from thence, Capt. Hullock had a Horse to ride on, while the rest went on Foot: And though they were all kept in close Prison, yet Hullock had the Honour to be often sent for to be examined at the Governour*s House, and was frequently Regal'd with Chocolate, &c. From thence they were carried to Cam- peachy Town, where still Captain Hullock was bettei 1 20 ISLES DES ARENAS itmd than his Comrades: At last, I know not how, they tU got ihcir Liberties, and Hullock was ever after called '^51 C^ain Jack. It a about eight Leagues from Sisat to Cape Condecedo ; MtBtjr Leagues North of which lies a small Island, call'd ^^ the Spaniards, Isles des Arenas,' hut the English Seamen, i is usual with them, comipt the Name strangely; and hnccall it the Dcsarts, others the Desarcusses ; ~ but of Hi liUnd, having never seen it, I can give no account. All this Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo, bknr Land, the Mount only excepted. It is most sandy ■y hf the Sea ; yet some of it is Mangrovy Land ; within ■kd you have some Spots of dry Savannah, and small Trees, with short thick Bushes among them, be Sea deepens gradually from the shore, and Ships may ichar in sandy Ground in any depth from seven or eight w to ten or twelve Fathom Water. In tome Places on this Coast we reckon our distance ^^ 1 the Shore by the depth of the Sea, allowing four fathom for the first League, and for every Fathom aftcr- tafdi a League more. Bat having got thus to Cape Condecedo, I shall defer Ac fiirthcr description of these Parts from this Cape South- "*nl and Westward to the High-Land of St. Martin,^ illich is properly the Bay of Campcachy : and from thence ' ftirther Westward, till my second coming on this ^^ Bt, when I made so long a stay here. To proceed ■Oefore with my present Voyage ; having past Cape M uch, the Mount, Rio de la Gartos, Sisal, and Cay>e 'Bileccdo, we stood Southward directly for Trist, the ea of our Logwood-Cutters ; at which Place being not c 60 Leagues distant, we soon arrived. Thsi is the Road only for big Ships, smaller Vessels t dmr but a little Water run 3 Leagues farther, by J over a great Lagune that runs from the Island up ; a uaar, vtady idei tatae nioMy miles 10 ilic N,W. of ,18 L^mroiindinK ii with the Aros, and llie Afc lioular Ulct* lo the wniib ot Cay Arenas. de Tnula. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. by the Spaniards, was sent to the City of Mexico, where *^75 they remained Prisoners six or eight Months, but at last were remanded to La Vera Cruz, and from thence by Sea to Campeachy : They were not imprisoned, but only kept to work on Board the Ship that brought them, and soon found an Opportunity of making their Escapes in this manner. They had been employed ashore all the Day, and being sent aboard at Night they fell to contrive how to run away with the Boat ; but considering that they wanted Necessaries for their Voyage, they resolved first to go back and supply themselves, which they might then do the better, because they knew there were none but a few Indians on Board. Accordingly having seized and bound the Indians, taking with them a Compass, with some Bread and Water, they put off to Sea, and arrived at Trist a Week before our Departure : And this Will. Wooders was the means under God of the Preservation of our Ship. The third Day, after we left Trist, about eight in the Morning, near twelve or fourteen Leagues W. S. W. from Campeachy, we saw two Sail about three Leagues to Wind- ward coming directly towards us, the Captain supposing that they had been Jamaica Vessels, would have lain by to hear some News, and to get some Liquor from them ; for we had now none on Board but a few Bottles in a small Case, that the Captain reserved for his own Drinking. But Wooders withstood the Captain's Proposal, and told him, that when he came from Campeachy there were two small Vessels ready to sail for Tobasco River, which is not above 1 1 or 1 2 Leagues Leeward of Trist, and that it was more probable these were those two Vessels than any from Jamaica. Upon this we edged off more to Sea, and they also altered their Course steering away still directly with us ; so that we were now assured they were Spaniards ; and therefore we put away ; quartering, and steering N. W. and though they still fetched on us a-pace, yet to make the more Speed they turned a Boat loose that was in Tow at one of their Sterns, and She being a good Sailer came within Gun-shot of us ; when, as it pleas^ God, the 124 THE AUTHOR CHASED. AND ESCAPES Lind-wind dyoj away of a sudden, and the Sea Breeze j did not yet spring up. ' While the Wind tasted we thought our selves but a Otgrte from Prisoners ; neither had we yet great Hopes of noping ; for our Ketch, even when light, was but a dull Suler, worse being deep loaden. However, we had now (uiK to unbend the Foresail, and make a studding Sail of H it, 10 put right before the Sea-Breeze when it should spring ■ *;<■ This WIS accordingly done in a Trice, and in less ^■ftu an Hour after the Breeze sprung up fresh, and we Bfut right hefarc the Wind. We had this Advantage in ^■'R, tlat all the Sul wc had did us Service ; while on the ^■Ctntriry, those who chased us, being three Mast Vessels, ^Kttuki nut bring all theirs to draw ; their After-sails be- ^ftalmtd their Head-sails, and we held them tack for two ^■'tt' three Hours, neither gaining nor losing Ground. At ^■'BS the Wind freshing on by the coming of a Tornado, H'*cgilnal considerably of them; so they fired a Gun and H kfi iScir Chase, hut we kept on crouding till Night; and f tWclipp'd on a Wind again and saw no more of them. I In about a Fortnight after this, we were got as far to I ^ Ea« as Rio de la Gartos, and there overtook us a I BBiIt Barmudocs Bnat belonging to Jamaica which had not I ^ta above ten Days come from Trist, but sailed much L wtler than wc did. Therefore our Merchant went nn ^■*arj of her. fur he saw we were like to have a long ^Vwiige; and Provision began to be scarce already, which ^Bt tould not so Well brook as we. Our Course lay all r^ig against the Trade-Hind. I All the Hopes that we had was a good North, this I bang the only Time of the Year for it : and soon after wc I wr ■ black Cloud in the N. W. (which is a Sign of a North, I bwt of this more in my Discourse of Winds) for two Days, Htorning and Evening. The third Day it rose apace and atae away very swiftly- Wc presently provided to receive :' by furling all but our Main-sail ; Intending with that (0 take the Advantage of it. Yet this did us but little Mprice; for after an Hour's time, in which it blew fresh at ^Kw. tbc Qoud went away, and the Wind came about CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. again at £. N. E. the usual Trade in these Parts. We ^^^ therefore made use of the Sea and Land-Breezes, as we had done before ; and bong now as high as the beforementionM Fishing Banks on the North of Jucatan, we so ordered our Business, that with the Land-winds we run over to the Banks ; and while it was calm between the Land-winds and Sea-Breeze, we put out our Hooks and Lines and fished, and got Plenty every Morning : One Time our Captain after he had haled in a good Fish, beii^ caigcr at his Sport, and throwing out lus Lone too hastily, the Hook hitched in the Palm of his Hand, and the Weight of the Lead that was thrown with a Jerk, and hung about six Foot from the Hook, forced the Beard quite through, that it appeared at the Back of his Hand. Soon after this we got as high as the Mount, and then stood oflF about 30 Leagues from Land, in hopes to get better to Windward there, than near the Shore; because the Wind was at £. S. E. and S. E. by E. a fresh Gale : continuing so 2 or 3 Days. We steered off to the North, expecting a Sea-Breeze at E. N. E. and the tlurd Day had our Desire. Then we tack*d and steered in again S.E. for the Shore of Jucatan. Our Ketch, as I said, was a heavy Sailer, especially on a Wind : for she was very short ; and having great round Bows, when we met a Head-Sea, as now, she plunged and laboured, not going a-head, but tumbling like an Egg-shell in the Sea. It was my Fortune to be at the Helm from 6 a Clock in the Evening till 8. The first 2 Glasses she steered very ill ; for every Sea would strike her dead like a Log ; then she would fall off 2 or 3 Points from the Wind, though the Helm was a Lee;^ and, as she recovered, and made a little way, she would come^ again to the Wind, till another Sea struck her off again. By that Time 3 Glasses were out the Sea be- came more smooth ; and then she steered very well, and made [pretty fresh way through the Water. I was some- what surprized at the sudden Change, from a rough Sea ^ It may be necessary to point out that when the helm is put down, or to leeward, the ship comes up into the wind. When it is put up, or to windward, the ship ^* falls off" from the wind. 126 ALCRANE ISLAND 1 unooth ; and therefore looked over-board 2 or 3 ajj. for she stceiwi open on the Deck,' and it being '^■'5 r Weather, ail our Men were lain down on the Deck Icn asleep. My Captain was just behind me on the Qumcr Deck fast asleep too, for neither he nor they Jroded any Danger, we being about 30 Leagues from the ^MaiifLami, at Noon, and as we thought, not near any ^B But while I was musing on the sudden Alteration of ^^ptSea, our Vessel struck on a Rock, with such Force that ^Hk Mniipstaff"' threw me down on my Back : This frighted Hmc » much that I cried out, and bad them all turn out, ^^nhc Ship struck. The Surge that the Ship made on the Ri^k, awakened most of our Men, and made them ask, ^Tiit the (natter was? But her striking a second Time, vxn inswcrcd the Question, and set us all to work for our f-iTa. By good Fortune she did not stick, but kept on ixr way still, and to our great Comfort, the Water was '■1=7 tmooth, otherwise we must certainly have been lost ; ■'^we very plainly saw the Ground under us: so we let -' ' our Anchor, in 2 Fathom Water, clean white Sand : IVhea cnir Sails were furled, and a sufficient Scope of Cable veered out, our Captain, being yet in amaze, went into his Cakin, aod most of us with him to view his Draught, and we loon found wc were fallen foul of the Alcranes.* The Alcnmes are 5 or 6 low sandy Islands, lying in At Lit. of about 13 d. North, and distant from the Coast dfjucatui about 25 Leagues: the biggest is not above a Mik or two in Grcuit. They arc distant from one another 1 or J Mile, not lying in a Line, but scattering here and dkre, with good Channels of 20 or 30 Fathom Water,' for I Ship to p«9» between. All of them have good Anchoring OB the West-sides, where you may ride in what Depths piu please, from 10 to 2 Fathom Water, clean sandy • /^, tbt aritcel wu not under a poop or half deck. * j^ vlupvUlT wu a tar of iron or wood used as it lillcr aboard small I j^ I hin"''^* '^'* ^'^'^ thallower ihan Daropiei ttai«s. "10 or 30 (• •ooU be mot* »ccvrete. 127 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. Ground. On some there are a few low Bushes of Btirton- 1675 wood, but they are mostly barren and sandy, bearing nothing but only a little Chicken-Weed ; neither have they any fresh Water. Their Land-Animals are only lai]ge Rats, which are in great Plenty ; and of Fowk, Boobies in vast Abundance, with Men of War and Egg-Birds. These inhabit only some of the Northermost of them, not pro- miscuously one among another, but each sort within their own Precincts, (viz.) the Boobies and the other two sorts each a-part by themselves ; and thus two or three of the Islands are wholly taken up. The Boobies being most numerous, have the greatest Portion of Land. The Egg- Birds,' tho' they are many, yet being but small, take up little' room to the rest : Yet in that little part which they inhaUt, they are sole Masters, and not disturbed by their Neigh- bours. All three Sorts are very tame, especially the BooUes, and so thick settled, that a Man cannot pass through thdr Quarters, without coming within Reach of their Bills, with which they continually peckt at us. I took notice that they sat in Pairs ; and therefore at first thought them to be Cock and Hen ; but upon striking at them, one flew away from each Place, and that which was left behind seemed as malicious as the other that was gone. I admired at the Boldness of those that did not fly away, and used some sort of Violence to force them, but in vain; for indeed these were young Ones, and had not yet learned the use of their Wings, tho* they were as big and as well feathered as their Dams, only their Feathers were something whiter and fresher. I took notice that an old one, either the Cock or Hen, always sat with the Young to secure them ; for otherwise these Fowls would prey on each other, the Strong on the weak, at least those of a diflFercnt Kind would make bold with their Neighbours : the Men-of-War- Birds as well as the Boobies left Guardians to the Young, when they went off to Sea, lest they should be starved by their Neighbours; for there were a great many old and lame Men-of- War-Birds that could not fly oflF to Sea to * A sort of tern common throughout the West Indies (Hydrodulidtm fuliginosum\ 128 ITS INHABITANTS— SHARKS, ETC. t their own Food- These did not inhabit among their \tt\ rts, but were cither expelled the Community, or else '^S : to lye out ai some Distance from the rest, and thai : altogether ; but scattering here and there, where thejr " 1 rdb securest : I saw near 20 of them on one of the ids, which sometimes would sally into the Camp to t for Booty, but presently retreated again, whether they t any thing or nothing. If one of these lame Birds 1 a young Booby not guarded, it presently gave him a I Poult ' on the Back with his Bill to make him dis- gorge, which they will do with one Stroak, and it may be cttt up a Kish or two as big as a Man's Wrist ; this they ratih>w in a Trice, and march off, and look out for another fnu. The sound Men-of-War will sometimes serve the iU Boobtcs so off at Sea. I have seen a Man-of-War fly '^iftely at a Booby, and give it one blow, which has caused n lu cast up a large l-'ish, and the Man-of-VVar flying iywtljr down after it, has taken it in the Air, before it ■ach'd the Water. There are Abundance of Fish at some Distance from c Islands, by which the Fowls inhabiting here, are daily f The Fish near the Island, are Sharks, Sword-Fishes, and s ; all three sons delighting to be near sandy Bays ; : that 1 saw here were but of a small Size, the Sword- k not above a Foot and a half, or two Foot long ; neither ■ the Sharks much longer, and the Nurses about the Length. The Nurse is just like a Shark, only its I is rougher, and is used for making the flnesi Rasps. c are many Seals; they come up to sun themselves only 5 or three of the Islands, 1 don't know whether exactly i same kind with those in colder Climates, but, as I noted in my former Book, they always live where : » Plenty of Ftsh. La cndhai old word which dnervct to be rcnincd. C/. I'urchas, . Book 6, Chan. &, a»ccniing anoihcr Somcnclshirc sailor. "John . . . lookc « tlw Pumpc brake or handle, and casi it 10 VViUiam btddiRr bin kiMckc him {n furkish pirate) downe, which he wa& not ■ doiof, bol U^u Bp the wooden weapon he gave hint luch a pult fm* u SMdc hU bmnei fonakc tlic poueuion u( \u» head." ou ti. 129 I CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES t3 T: tnr Njcri: :r triese Kan::^ lycs a long Ledge rf i B-'*'; :* sccais to be 13 or 12 Yards 2JDr.\Li X L£s^j£s I'jcg. zad 3 Leigoes distant TT'XXL zbt lilini- TbsT ITS aboTc Waicr, all joinii^ very clvse :o \jrt i=, 'JiZ'Cr. except at ^xic or two Places^ where ar^ 2ZL2.I1 Passages al>:> ut 9 or x c Yards wide ; *twas through occ Lf th-isc that Pra«iienoe directed us in the Nigh: ; tor the next Morning we saw the Riff about half a Mile to the North rA us. and right agunst us was a small Gap, by vhich we came in hither, but coming to view it more ntarlv with O'.ir Boar, we did not dare to venture out that way again. One Reas*Dn why we would have gone out to the Norrhward, was, because from our NIsun-top we saw the Islands to the Southward ^ of us, and being unacquainted, knew not whether we might find among them a Channel to pass through ; our second Reason was the Hopes of making a better Slant in for the Shore, if we could weather the East end of the Riff. In order to this we wdghed Anchor, keeping down by the Side of the Riff till we were at the West end of it, which was about a League from where we anchored : then we stood off to the North, and there kept plying off and on to weather the East end of the Riff, three Days; but not being able to effect it, by Reason of a strong Current setting to the N. W. we ran back again to the West end of the Riff, and steered away for the Islands. There we anchored and lay three or four Days, and visited most of them, and found Plenty of such Creatures, as I have already described. Though here was great Store of such good Food and wc like to want, yet we did neither salt any, nor spend of it fresh to save our Stock. I found them all but one Man averse to it, but I did heartily wish them of another Mind, because I dreaded wanting before the end of the Voyage ; a Hazard which we needed not to run, there being here such Plenty of Fowls and Seals, (especially of the latter) that the Spaniards do often come hither to make Oyl dF their Fat ; upon which Account it has been vi^ted by ' They must have ran aground a little to the north of the Isla Destenadav the most northerly of the group. 130 CAPTATW LONG SHIPWRECKED gli^-men fnioi Jamaica, paniculzrlv by Capt. Lang : ax fco having the Command of a small Bark, came hither "^5 ttrposciy to make Scal-OyI, and ancfuwtd on the North Idc of one of the sandy Islands, the most convenient Place, ar his Dcsgn : Having got ashore his Cask lo put his Oyl in, and set up a Tcni for lodging himself ud lus Gocxli, be began to kill the Seal, and had not wrought above three or four Days before a fierce Nortb-^nd blew h» Bark ashore. By good Fortune she was not damnified : but hti Company being but small, and so despairii^ of Etting her afltjat again, they fell to contriving how to get ray ; a ver>' difficult Task to accomplish, for tt was 24 r 2$ Leagues to the neanrst Place of the Main, and above DO Leagues to Trist. which was the next English Settle- tent. But cootrary to their Expectation, instead of that, apt. Long Wd them follow their Work of Seal-killing ■d making Oyl; assuring them that he would undertake t hi» own Peril to carry them safe to Trist. This though I went much against the Grain, y« at last he so far pre- vailed by fair Words, that they were contented to go on with their Seal-killing, till they had filled all their Cask. But their greatest Work was yet to do, viz. how they iboold get over to the Main, and then coast down before the Wind to Trist. Their Boat was not big enough to trampcn them, so they concluded to cut down the Barks Masts and rip up her Deck to make a Float for that PurpDte. I This being agreed 00, the next Morning betimes, Hfaursuant to their Resolution, they were going to break ^■p their Vessel ; but it happened that very Night, that ^^bo New-England Ketches going down to Trist, ran on ^Ac Backside of the Riff, where they struck on the Rocks, ^^U were bulged ; and Captain Long and his Crew seeing Pftem ia Distress, presently took their Boat, and went off To help them unlade their Goods, and bring them ashore : and in Requital they furnished the Captain with such Tackle And other Necessaries as he wanted, and assisted 1 in the launching his Vessel, and lading his Oyl, and r went merrily away for Trist. This lucky Accident 131 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. into the Main-Land, where they anchor at a Place called '^75 One-Bush-Key. We stayed at Trist three Days to fill our Water, and then with our two Consorts sailed thence with the Tide of Flood ; and the same Tide arrived there. This Key is not above forty Paces long, and five or six broad, having only a little crooked Tree growing on it, and for that Reason it is called One-Bush- Key. It seems to be only a Heap of Shells, for the Island is covered with them. The greatest Part are Oyster-shells. There are a great many Oyster-banks in this Lagune, and the adjacent Creeks, but none aflFord better, either for Largeness or Taste, than the Bank about this Island. In the wet Season the Oysters as well of One-Bush-Key as other Places here, are made fresh by the Freshes running out of the Country : But in the dry Time they are salt enough. In the Creeks they are smaller, but more numerous ; and the Mangrove-Roots that grow by the Sides of the Creeks are loaden with them; and so are all the Branches that hang in the Water. One-Bush-Key is about a Mile from the Shore; and just against the Island is a small Creek that runs a Mile farther, and then opens into another wide Lagune; and through this Creek the Logwood is brought to the Ships riding at the Key. Between the Oyster-Banks that lye about the Island and the Main, there is good Riding in about 12 Foot Water. The bottom is very soft Oaz, insomuch that we are forced to shooe our Anchors to make them hold. The Main by it is all low Mangrovy- Land, which is overflow'd every Tide; and in the wet Season is covered with Water. Here we lay to take in our Lading. Our Cargo to purchase Log-wood was Rum and Sugar ; a very good Commodity for the Log-wood-cutters, who were then about 250 Men, most English, that had settled themselves in several Places hereabouts: Neither was it long before we had these Merchants come aboard to visit us; we were but 6 Men and a Boy in the Ship, and all little enough to entertain ithem : for besides what Rum we sold by the Gallon or Firkin, we sold it made into Punch, 122 FROLICKSOME LOGWOOD-CUTTERS ■ vhcrcwith they grew Frolicksome. We had none but aw" all Arms' to fire at their drinking Healths, and there- '*''S the Nobc was not very great at a Distance ; hut on 1 the Vessels wc were loud enough till all our Liquor _ I spent : We took no Money for it, nor expected any ; H Lc^-wood was what we came hither for, and we had H "" that in lieu of our Commodities after the Rate of five H Pound per Ton, to be paid at the Place where they cut it : H and wc went with our Long-boat to fetch small Quantities. H But because it would have taken up a long time to load ^| our Vessel with our own Boat only, we hired a Periago of H Ihc Logwood -Cutters to bring it on Board ; and by that H means made the quicker Dispatch. I made two or three H Trips to their Huts, where I and those with me were H ijwijrs very kindly cnteruin'd with Pig and Pork, and H Pease, or Beef and Dough-Boys. Their Beef they got by H hunting in the Savannahs. As long as the Liquor lasted, H which they bought of us, we were treated with it, either in H Drams or Punch. But for a more particular Account of H the Logwood -Cutters I shall refer the Reader to my second ■ Voyage hither, which 1 made shortly after my Return to H Jamaica, because I saw a great Prospect of getting Money H here, if Men would be but diligent and frugal. ■ But let's proceed with our Voyage. It was the latter V Old of September, 1675, when we sailed from One-Bush- Key with the Tide of Ebb; and anchored again at Trist that same Tide ; where we watered our Vessel in order to wL Thb wc accomplished in two Days, and the third ■ D«y sailed from Trist toward Jamaica. A Voyage which H proved rcry tedious and hazardous to us, by Reason of our H Ships being so sluggish a Sailer that She would not ply to H Windward, whereby wc were necessarily driven upon several H Shoals that otherwise we might have avoided, and forced H to sperKl thirteen Weeks in our Passage, which is usually ■ accomplished in half that Tmie. I Wc had now a Passenger with us, one Will. Wooders I a Jamaica Seaman, that with three others that were taken H ■ It «u Umo the *u<ustocn ta Tirr a f un wbeo drinking n health. The ^^ I MHMii tod to gnat wu» o( powder. ^M 123 ■ CAPTAIX DAMPIER'S VOYAGES »•» '■^. 'jr, tic Bet, s»:cie re -p^cr wDcjd scudc stir oat :r tii TTiT z'x z:i^ ^^* }r"*i r:«2i or ^^M^rn (which rig't asilj hiT* 5:re^ tbiiiii^i Fodc begin to be si Months of June or ■^ —X, J::! J -B^i rrizrt rr:ctt.r> hzTe gocta Turtle, for they frfc-:irrt tids biji s:cie Years ss much ss they do little CaTTrir«. W* siiTci hsn but 3 or 4 Homs, and steered batzk fyr F-ts, nteiii-g zhcrt to hunt for Beef or Hog, ^A yji'z which thicri :s Ls great plenty. The second day in the Morring w* ftrll i= with the West-end of Pines, and mnning al»ut 4 cr 5 Miles Northward, we anchored in 4 fathom Water clean Sa:;i, aSyjt 2 Nfile from the Shore, and right against a smaL Creek through the Mangroves into a wide Lagune. The Isle of Pines lies on the South-side, towards the West-end of Cuba, and is distant from it 3 ch* 4 Leagues. Cape Corientes on Cuba is five or six Leagues to the West- ward of the Isle of Pines. Between Pines and Cuba are many small woody Islands scattered here and there, with Channels for Ships to pass between ; and by report there is good anchoring near any of them. Jamaica Sloops do sometimes pass through between Cuba and Pines, when they are bound to Windward, because there the Sea is always smooth : They are also certain to meet good Land- winds; besides they can anchor when they please, and thereby take the benefit of the Tides ; and when they are got past the East-end of Pines, they may either stand out to Sea again, or if they are acquainted among the small Islands to the East of it, (which are called the South Keys of Cuba) they may range amongst them to the Eastward, still taking the greater benefit of the Land-winds and Anchoring ; besides, if Provision is scarce they will meet Jamaica Turtlers, or else may get Turtle themselves, at which many of them are expert. There is also plenty of iMsh of many Sorts, but if they are not provided with Hooks, Lines, or Harpoons, or any other Fishing-Craft, nor meet with any Turtles, Cuba will afford them Susten- ance of Hog or Beef. The great inconvenience of going 134 in the inside of Pines between it and Cuba, proceeds from a Spanish Garrison of about 40 Soldiers at Cape Corientes, who have a large Pcriago, well fitted with Oars and Sails, and are ready to launch out, and seize any small Vessel, and seldom spare the Lives as well as the Goods of those that fall into their Hands for fear of telling Tales. Such VilUnics are frequently practised not only here, but also in several other places of the West-Indies, and that too with such as come to trade with their Country-men. The Merchants and Gentry indeed are no way guilty of such I Actions, only the Soldiers and Rascality of the People; and these do commonly consist of Mulatoes or some other •ort of Coppcr-coloiir'd Indians, who are accounted very larbarotis and cruel. The Isle of Fines is about 1 1 or 12 Leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. The West-end of it is low Mangrovy-Land ; ■nd within, which is a Lagune of about 3 or 4 Miles wide, funning to the Eastward, but how far I know not, with a small Creek of 2 or 3 Foot Water, reaching to the Sea. The Lagune it self is so shallow, especially near the Island, that you cannot bring a Canoa within 20 or 30 Paces of the shore. The South-side of the Island is low, fiat, and |-rocky; the Rocks are perpendicularly steep towards the jSca, so that there is no Anchoring on that side ; but the West-end very good in Sandy Ground. The Body of the hland is high Land, with many little Hills incompassing a high Pike or Mountain standing in the middle. The Trees that grow here arc of divers sorts, most of them unknown Id mc. Red Mangroves grow in the low swampy Land the Sea, but on the firm hilly part Pine-Trees are plentiful. Of these here are great groves of a good 'and bigness, streight and largccnough to make Top- ■ standing Masts for small Vessels ; at the West-end a pretty big River of fresh Water, but no coming it near the Sea for Red Mangroves, which grow so thick both sides of it, that there is no getting in among them. The Land-Animals arc Bullocks, Hogs, Deer, &c. Here are small Savannahs for the Bullocks and Deer to fced in, as well as Frutt in the Woods for the Hogs: »3S : APT A3" 1\KM?lE?JS VC J. 'zzs:rt irt 1.5. I z-vn :r iioins :r iTtrar Cxixes. and in " i-.Tiiit riscri TLiin— :f I-uic-7::rti^ i=ii Larrc-Oahs of two iiUnE. Tni-r ir^s. ^Licx Hiicr :f ■ierr: =:akc holes in the rri'iiiii. 2Jt± Z :r:tr^. "vi^ir^ nrrr 2i«iLt:=r rrerrselves all Day, izd .- 'Ji:t VjTtr nee m. r: fisc : tier will eat Grass, Kms. :r 51^ rr^z is tire^ iic vini-sr tbe Trees: The ^Ixr.c^iir-iiL rTiiz. -^nciz zjei~er Bcri =or Beast will taste, s iT^siiil- iiT- cr:ii ri lirerr:^ vi~ocr ixng them any '.dm. Ttr TTcse titt Crx?s ti'u.r fi^sd on NLmchaniel, arc -rT'.ri' :»-?^ :• r- t: NLi.-i i.-:c Beast tiat feeds 00 them, ■::--■ u:X* — e :r-fir^ ir: -irr r:«:c Miat; the white Crabs irt -.-e -iTT^- >:r: : ^rrr* :r ther:: xrs as btg as a Mans nr: Fji3 ;:7^ei tci^^: ^^^J 1^ shaped like Sea-Crabs, iiiT:-^ :!3S ^ar^i C'j.^. '^hiri'sith they will pinch very ziri^ r.ei'ih'ir tf^II rh-ij I'it r*:- theb* Hold, though you br-:ise then in Prices, unless tou break the Claw too; but if iheT :hir.;e :: citch ycur Rsgers, the way is to lay your Hani, Crab ani all. fiat cr. the Ground, and he will :n:ni*i:a:t> I rose his Hrli ani scamper away. These wh::e--3nes build ir. wet swampy dirty Ground near the Sea, so :ha: -he Tide washes into their Holes; but the black Crab is more cleanly, delighting to live in dry Places, and makes i3 Hr-use in sandy Earth : black Crabs are commonly far and full of Eggs ; they are also accounted the better Meat, tho' bi^th s«:)r3 are ver\" good. Here are also a great many Alligators and Crocodiles that haunc about this Island, and are said to be the most daring in ail the West-Indies. I have heard of many of their Tricks; as that they have followed a Canoa, and put their Noses in over the Gunnal, with their Jaws wide open, as if ready to devour the Men in it : and that when they have been ashore in the Night near the Sea, the Croco- diles have boldly come in among them, and made them run from their Fire, and taken away their Meat from them. Therefore when Privateers are hunting on this Island, they always keep Centinels out to watch for these ravenous Creatures, as duly as they do in other Places for fear of Enemies, especially in the Night, for fear of being devoured in their Sleep. 136 HUNTING BEEF AND HOGS The Spaniariis of Cuba have here some Craules, i.e. Hcrdt of Hogs, with a few Indians or Muiatoes to look afrcr them : Here are also Hunters that gain a LiveHhood by killing wild Hog and Beef. This Island is reported to be very wet. I have heard many say, that it rains here more or less every Day in the Vear; but thi« I suppose is a Mistake, for there fell no Rain about us, so long as we staid here, neither did I see any Appearance of it in other Places of the Island. Wc were no sooner at an Anchor, but five of us went ashore, leaving only the Cook and Cabbin-Boy aboard : We had but two bad Fowling-Pieccs in the Ship ; those we took with us, with a Design to kill Beef and Hog, We went into the Lagune, where we found Water enough for our Canoo, and in some Places not much to spare ; when we were got almost over it, we saw eight or ten Bulls and Cowi feeding on the Shore close by the Sea. This gave us great Hopes of good Success. We therefore rowed away aside of the Cattle, and landed on a sandy Bay, about "ilf a Mile from them: there we saw much Footing of ^tcn and Boys; the Impressions seemed to be about eight - ten Days old, wc supposed them to be the Track of T^nish Hunters. This troubled us a little, but it being w their Christmas, wc concluded that they were gone ■ «■ ti» Cuba to keep it there, so we went after our Game ; -c Bijatswain and our Passenger Will. Wooders having r,e Gun, and presuming on their Skill in Shooting, were pcnniiied to try their Fortune with the Cattle that we saw B^orc we landed, while the Captain and my self with our ^■n Gun struck up directly into the Woods. The fifth ^kn, whose Genius led him rather to fish than hunt, stayed ^■the Canoa : and had he been furnished with a Harpoon, ^B might have gotten more Fish than we did Flesh, for the ^■Itlc smelling our two Men before they came nigh them, ^B away ; after that our Men rambled up into the Country ^Hieek for tome other Game. ^M The Capuin and I had not gone half a Mile before He came among a Drove of near 40 great and small wild I Hogs. The Captain firing, wounded one of them, but ■ _ '37 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. they all ran away; and though we followed the Blood a '^75 good way, yet did not come up with him, nor with any other to get a second Shot ; however, because there was such a great Track of Hogs in the Woods, we kept beating about, being still in hopes to meet with more Game before Night, but to no Purpose, for we saw not one more that Day. In the Evening we returned to our Boat weary and vext at our ill Success. The Boatswain and his Consort were not yet returned, therefore we stayed *till *twas dark, and then went aboard without them : the next Morning betimes we went ashore again, as well to try our Fortune at Hunting, as to recover our two Men which we thought might now be returned to the Place where they landed ; but not seeing them, the Captain and I went again out to hunt, but came back at Night with no better Success than before ; neither did we see one Beef or Hog, though much Track all the Day. This Day he that look'd to the Boat kilTd a young Sword-fish with the Boat-hook ; there were a great many of them, as also Nurses and Dog-fish, playing in shole Water ; he had also discovered a Stream of fresh Water, but so inclosed with thick red Mangroves, that 'twas impossible to fill any in Cask ; we could scarce get a little to drink. Our two Men that went out the Day before, were not yet returned; therefore when 'twas dark we went aboard again, being much perplex'd for fear of their falling into the Hands of the Spanish Hunters ; if we had been certain of it, we would have sailed presently, for we could not expect to redeem them again, but might have been taken our selves, either by them, or by the Cape Soldiers before mentioned. Indeed these Thoughts about their Danger and our own, kept me waking all Night. However the next Morning betimes we went ashore again, and before we got into the Lagune we heard a Gun nred, by which we knew that our Men were arrived ; so we fired another in Answer and rowed away as fast as we could to fetch them, designing to sail as soon as we came aboard ; for by the flattering South and S. W. Winds together with the Clearness of the Sky, we supposed we should have a North ; the Land intercepted our Prospect near the Horizon 138 SCARCITY OF PROVISION ■'■ the N. W. ihcreforc we did not see the black Cloud rcrc, which is a pure Prt^nostic of a North; when we ' lime »shore w*e found our two Men. They killed a Hog :nc first Day, but losing their way, were forced to march like Tigrcs all the next Day to get to us, and threw away most of their Meat to lighten themselves, yet 'twas Night Vfore thev got to the Side of the Lagune ; and then being ■.hne or four Miles still from us, they made a Fire and -tilted their Meit, and having fiU'd their Bellies, lay down ■ ■ *leep, yet had still a small Pittance left for us. We presently rctumetl aboard, and feasted on the Remains of -c Roast-meat, and being now pretty full, got up our Anchor ami stood away m the South, coasting along by the Itluid ; and doubling the S, W. Point, we steered away F., S. E. We had the Wind when we weighed at West a rri'-dcntc Gale, but veering about to the North, got at N. W. By that Time we got to the South West Point of Kin«, and it now blew a fierce Gak-, and held thus two Days, and then came to the N. N. W. blowing hard still, tad from thence to the North : then we edged away S. E. t'lT it blew hard, and we could not bring her nearer the Wind. From the N, it came about to the N. N. E. then "r kocw that the Heart of it was broke, however it blew Mfd niti : then it came about to the N. E. and blew about r'rur Hours, and so by Degrees dyed away and edged more I jMcrty, till it came to the E. by N. and there it stood. '•Vc were in good Hopes while the North continued, to Bivc gotten to Jamaica before it ceased, and were sorry to fad our selves thus disappointed ; for we could not see the Uaad, though we judged we could not be far from it; It Noon We had a good Observation, and found ourselves m the Latitude of the Island. We now had not one Bit of any Kind of Food aboard ; therefore the Captain desired to know our Opinions what to do, and which way wc might soonest get to some Shore, oAer to beat for Jamaica, or to t»ear away before the Wind, fr tlie South Keys. All the Seamen but my' self, were for |n^ to tbc South Keys, alledging that our Ship being inch a dull Sailer would never go to Wmd-ward without »39 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Help of Sea and Land Breezes, which we could not '^75 expect at such a Distance as we were, being out of the Sight of any Land : and that it was probable that in three or four Days Time we might be among the South Keys, if we would put for it ; and there we should find Provision enough, either Fish or Flesh. I told them that the Craft was in catching it, and it was as probable that we might get as little Food in the South Keys, as we did at Pines, where, though there was Plenty of Beefs and Hogs, yet we could not tell how to get any : besides we might be six or seven Days in getting to the Keys ; all which Time we must of Necessity fast, which if *twere but two or three Days, would bring us so low, that we should be in a weak Condition to hunt. On the contrary, if they would agree to beat a Day or two longer for the Island Jamaica, we might in all Probability see, and come so near it, that we might send in our Boat and get Provision from thence, though we could not get in to anchor : for by all Likeli- hood we were not so far from the Island, but that we might have seen it, had it been clear ; and that the hanging of the Clouds seemed to indicate to us, that the Land was obscured by them. Some of them did acquiesce with me in my Opinion ; however, 'twas agreed to put away for the South Keys, and accordingly we veered out our Sheets, trimm'd our Sails, and steered away N. N. W. I was so much dissatisfied, that I turned into my Cabbin, and told them we should be all starved. I could not sleep, tho' I lay down ; for I was very much troubled to think of fasting 3 or 4 Days, or a Week ; having fared very hard already. Indeed 'twas by meier Accident that our Food lasted so long ; for we carried two Barrels of Beef out with us to sell, but 'twas so bad that none would buy it ; which proved well for us : for after our own Stock was spent, this supplied us. We boiled every Day two Pieces ^ of it ; and because our Peas were all eaten, and our Flour almost spent, we cut our Beef in ^ In seaman's measure the "piece" of beef weighed four pounds; the "piece" of pork two pounds. In practice, the pieces weighed rather less than this ; the beef about 3 J lbs. and the pork i^ lbs. 140 4 A jOYFOL SIGHT OF LAND L Bits after 'twas boiled, and boiled it again in Water, an. k'U with a litcic Klour, and so eat it altogether with '^^ i The little Pieces of Beef were like Plumbs in our dge. Indeed 'twas not tit to be eaten any other r though it did not stink, yet it was very unsavoury md black, without the least sign of Fat in it : Bread ' and Hour being scarce with us, we could not make Dough- '- fi' to eat with it. But to proceed, 1 had not lain in my - ibbin above three Glasses, before one on the Deck cryed .1, I^mJ ' l^nd! I was very glad at the News, and we - I immediately discerned it very plain. The first that we _ii» was High-land, which we knew to be BIcwficIdb-Hill.* . a Bending or Saddle on the Top, with two small Heads r, each Side. It bore N. E. by E. and we had the Wind -• EL therefore we presently clapp'd on a Wind, and steered ■1 N. N. E. and soon after we saw all the Coast, being not .■>.*vc 5 or 6 Leagues from it. We kept jogging on all -c Aftcmiwn, nut striving to get into any particular :'Licc; but where we could fetch, there we were resolved Anchor : The next Day being pretty near the Shore, <r*cen Bk-wficlds Point, and Point-Nigrill, and having '■ic Wind large enough to fetch the latter, we steered away directly thither; and seeing a small Vessel about two Leagues N. W. of us, making Signs to speak with us by huywig atid lowring her Topsails, wc were afraid of her, •ad edged in nearer the Shore ; and about there a Clock in ibe Aftcmixtn, to our great Joy, we anchored at Nigrill, ■ ktviag \xcTi thirteen Weeks on our Passage. I think never ^>) \cael before nor since, made such Traverses in coming I of the Bay as wc did, having first hlundcr'd over the Rknny Kiff*. and then visited those Islands; from thence among the Colorado Shoals, afterward made a Trip ■, Caymancs ; and lastly, visited Fines, tho' to no In all these Rambles we got as much Exjiericnce ■ we had been sent out on a Design. As won as we came to anchor, wc sent our Boat ashore ' By " bread " a uitcx mnns biscuit. * A iii)ii|{b-lKi]r i> a tori nf Mxlden dumpling. » Ob the S.W. coml :>A\EPIER75 VOYAGES T— i.ni: i: ? 1 i 'sv. i*A 3«.- 1 ir r. "i:Tnm zz 21 ^ . rmr.c -ur^> -T icr.iuc irr. .^^ x: ?. V:. X ^^es.« after our long basic goiii^ to drink zinrrgtiiY Cape Rawlins^ i Vessel, that wc left zr, who had been in the L«3gvoQii, and was nov aboard, and weit us; the Bowl hid ^ughi be ox Quarts in re by Cape. Rawlins, who bsjznz the Bowl in lus 2 OoHh to drink but three -. arad paning the Bowl to I>%ughi, and so making ci ocr Expectations, till D£xt Diy havii^ a brisk ct Cbocolatto North,^ «t eaded this trouUesome as a Oiocolatto North. 142 CHAP. II ImttMri t*rmnd Vayai^t U th* Bay »f Camptwhy. Hh arrival m At hit af Triit, and utlliig with tfu LaguMtd-Ctttfri. A Dt- tiri^Bm af tht CtaU fram Capr CenJarda ts Trht. SaSmn tr Sail Ptttdi, Salt gathrrrdfir th Spaniard! hy ihr Indiam, Hlaa, m rfimariaM HilJ. Haru-hMf-fiih. Tkt TriamgU hlamdi. Cam- ftatky Tnvn twiit tain, Itt iftie/ Tradt, Catttn. C/iamfiftm tt'mtr ; and iti Lagumd, a rith Ctrnmadity. Part-Royal Harbaur mmd lUand. Pritiiy-Grau. SapadilU Trea. Trht liland daeriyd. Cf^-PUmh-huthn. Tht Gref>t-Trff. Its Anirnah, LtEMrdi. LagHKa Termina and its ttrang Tidn. Summusnila' Rrvrr, and Chac^tbull Tnvn. Strlts kit Kiy. Captain Srrlti Im AJwntmra. Th* Eatl and lym Lagtuus^ with thtir Braachn zmhaiittd by Lagwaad-Cuttm. Oah graivtng thfrtj and na where tht nithia tht Trtpicit, Tfu Original af tht Lagwoad-Trajt. Tiu Rainy SramM, and grtat FUads accauaned by Norl/ii. The dry Stmam. /Hid Pinfplaat, Tht LagttMed-Tra. Bload-fP'ead, ilaci-fiih Ifaad and Cantvjaad, A Dmriptian af lome Animals, Sfmathti, largt iamg-taifd iManityi, Ant'itari, SUtht, Armadilloi, Tigre-Cali, Stiaift af thrtt larts, Galliuiaip*, Huge Spiders, Great Jnti amd ihtir Nttll. Rambling Anti, Humming Birds, Blaci- Bmtt, Turtlt-Drvti, Quami, Carretat, Carrian Craws, Suhtlt iath. Bill-birds, Catiretas, Dtuis af stvtral sarts, Curlews, Htrans, Crakmukrrs, PiRiam, Carmaranit, Fishing Hawks. Several sorts af Fiik, Ten-fawndin, Parieaatai, Garr-fish, Spanish Mackril : T%t Ray, AlSgatars, Cracadi/rs, haw thty differ fram Alligaton. A marram Eitap* af an Irish-man frem an AUigalar. f T wu not long after our Arrival at Port-Royal, before jun. , we were paid off, and discharged. Now Captain t^s\ Johnson of Ncw-England, being bound again Into the k. Bajr of Campcachjr. 1 took the Opportunity of going luBcoger with him, being resolved to spend some Time the Logwood Trade; and accordingly provided such 143 CAPTAIN DAMPIERS VOYAGES \s. Necessaries is wen: rcqi;ired about it (viz.) Hatchets, Axes, '^'''5 Nlachca^, (i.^. Long Knives) Saws, Wedges, &c. a Pavillion to sleep in, a Gun with Powder and Shot, &c. and leaving a Letter of Attorney with Mr. Fleming, a Merchant of Port-Royal, as well to dispose of any thing that I should send up to him, as to remit to me what I should order, I took leave of mv Friends and imbarked. About the Middle of Feb. 75-6, we sailed from Jamaica, and with a fair Wind and Weather, soon got as far as Cape Catoch ; and there met a pretty strong North, which lasted two Days. After that the Trade settled again at E. N. E. which speedily carried us to Trist Island. In a little time I settled my self in the West Creek of the West Lagune with some old Logwood-Cutters, to follow the Employment with them. But I shall proceed no farther with the Relation of my own Affairs, till I have given a Description of the Country, and its Product, with some Particulars of the Logwood-Cutters; their hunting for Beef, and making Hides, &c. I have in my former Voyage described the Coast from Cape Catoch to Cape Condecedo. Therefore I shall now begin where I then left off, and following the same Method, proceed to give some Account of the Sea-coast of the Bay of Campeachy ; being competently qualified for it by many little Excursions that I made from Trist during my Abode in these Parts. The Bay of Campeachy is a deep bending of the Land, contained between Cape Condecedo on the East, and a Point shooting forth from the High-Land of St. Martins on the West. The Distance between these two Places is about 1 20 Leagues, in which are many large and navigable Rivers, wide Lagunes, &c. Of all which I shall treat in their Order, as also of the Land on the Coast; its Soil, Product, &c. Together with some Observations concern- ing the Trees, Plants, Vegetables, Animals, and Natives of the Country. From Cape Condecedo to the Salinas^ is 14 or 15 1 Real de las Salinas. 144 mmmm Logocs; the Coast runs in South: It is all a sandy Bay ak. between, and the Land also within is dry and sandy, pro- '^'S ducine only sovnc scrubbed Trees. Half-way between tiiese two Places you may dig in the Sand above High-water Mark, and find very gocxl fresh Water. The Salina is a fine soull Harbour for Barks : but there is not above 6 or 7 Foot Water; and close by the Sea, a little within the Land, there is a large Salt Pond, belonging to Campeachy Town, which fields Abundance of Salt. At the Time when the Salt kerns, which is in May or June, the Indians of the Country arc ordered by the Spuiiards to give their Attendance, to rake it ashore, and gather into a great Pyramidal Heap, broad below and sharp at the Top, like the Ridge (if a House ; then covering it all over with dry Grass and Reeds, they set Fire to it ; and this burns the out-side Salt to a h^il black Crust : The hard Crust ts aftcr^s■ards a Defence against the Rains :hat arc now settled in, and preserves the Heap dry even ~ the wettest Season. The Indians, whose Business I have [fdd you, is 10 gather the Salt thus into Heaps, wait here by Turns all the Kerning Season, not less than forty or fiifty Families at a Time ; yet here are no Houses for them to lie in, neither do they at all regard it ; for they are relieved by a fresh Supply of Indians every Week : and they alt sleep in the open Air, some on the Ground, but Ti'st in very poor Hammocks fastened to Trees or Posts, !vick into the Ground for that Purpose. Their Fare is '■• better than their Lodging; for they have no other F'l-jd while they are here but Tartilloes and Posole. I'anillocs arc small Cakes made of the Flour of Indian Ojfn; and Posole is also Indian Curn boiled, of which they oake their Drink. But of this more hereafter, when I ;rat of the Natives and their manner of Living. When ■Jic Kerning Season is over, the Indians march Home to ihnr lettled Habitations, taking no more Care of the Salt. I Bot the Spaniards of the Campeachy, who arc Owners of ' lie PondB, do frequently send their Barks hither for Salt, 10 loul Ships that lye in Campeachy Road ; and afterwards 'nsspoft it to all the Ports in the Bay of Mexico, especially VOL. IL 145 K CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. to Alvarado and Tompeck/ two great Fishing Towns : and ^^75 I think that all the Inland Towns thereabouts, are supplied with it; for I know of no other Salt Ponds on all the Coast, besides this and those before mentioned. This Salina Harbour was often visited by the English Logwood- Cutters in their way from Jamaica to Trist. And if they found any Barks here, either light or laden, they made bold to take and sell both the Ships and the Indian Sailors that belonged to them. This they would tell you was by way of Reprizal, for some former Injuries received of the Spaniards ; though indeed 'twas but a Pretence : for the Governours of Jamaica knew nothing of it, neither durst the Spaniards complain; for at that Time they used to take all the English Ships they met with in these Parts, not sparing even such as came laden with Sugar from Jamaica, and were bound for England ; especially if they had Logwood aboard. This was done openly, for the Ships were carried into the Havana, there sold, and the Men imprisoned without any Redress. From the Salinas to Cam peachy Town, is about 20 Leagues ; the Coast runs S. by W. The first 4 Leagues of it, along the Coast is drowned Mangrove-Land, yet about two Mile South of the Salina, about 200 Yards from the Sea, there is a fresh Spring, which is visited by all the Indians that pass this way either in Bark or Canoa; there being no Water besides near it ; and there is a small dirty Path leads to it thro* the Mangroves ; after you arc past these Mangroves, the Coast riseth higher with many sandy Bays, where Boats may conveniently land, but no fresh Water till you come to a River near Campeachy Town. The Land further along the Coast is partly Mangrovy, but most of it dry Ground, and not very fruitful ; producing only a few scrubbed Bushes : and there is no Logwood growing on all this Coast, even from Cape Catoch to Campeachy Town. About six Leagues before you come to Campeachy, there is a small Hill called Hina, where Privateers do * Tampico. 146 TORSEHOOF FISH— CAMPEACHY TOWN nmunly anchor and keep Centinels on the Hill, to look -an. for Ships hound to the Town : There is Plenty of '^^5 Fire-wood, but no Water ; and in the Surf of the , close by the Shore, you find Abundance of Shell-fish, call'd by the English, Horsehfjofs, Iwcause the under-part or Belly of the Fish is flat, and somewhat resembling that Figure in Shane and Magnitude ; but the Back is round like k Turtle's; the Shell is thin and brittle, like a Lobster's; with many small Claws: and by report they are very good Meat ; but I never tasted any of them my self. There are three small Inw sandy Islands,' about 25 or 26 I^^eagucs from Hina, bearing North from it, and 30 Leagues from Campeachy. On the South-side of these llaods there is good Anchorage; but neither Wood nor Vater: and as for Animals, we saw none, but only great Dfnbcrs of large Rats and Plenty of Boobies, and Men- f- War- Birds. These Islands arc call'd the Triangles, om the Figure they make in their Position. There arc other at any distance from the shore, but these and Alcranics, mentioned in the former Chapter, in all his Coast that I have seen. From Hina to Campeachy, as 1 have said before, is htt\n 6 Leagues. Campeachy is a fair Town, standing 1 the shore in a small bending of the Land; and is the Dly Town on all this Coast, even from Cape Catoch to '. Vera Cruz, that stands open to the Sea. It makes a shew, being built all with good Stone. The Houses : not high, but the Walls very strong ; the Roofs flattish, after the Spanish Fashion, and covered with Pantile. Thcrt is a strong Gttadcl or Kort at one end, planted with many Gum, where the Governor resides with a small Garrison to defend it. Though this Fort commands the Town aad Harbour, yet it has been twice taken. First by Sir istopher Mims;* who about the Year 1659, having ■ TIm Z*m Tranglc, ibe West Tiianstc, luid the Seal Hnnk. * "r Cluittopbn Myn^i (i6is~i666) ms a naval commander in the *' fnm l6;j for *ercral yean, and agnin from 1663 for a shurt Bcm* to bBtrc be«n ai Citnpcacby in 1664 ; but lie was so full i'««pruc* and imtjitioiiu " that he may have taken part in another, |l mMr, cvpcdituiD. Hi* renurk to Uic privatcert ajcrees well wiifa ihe f tpim " JUtd pnwd ^KjfcmK " (o* wKich b 147 atcd. CAPTAIN DAM PIE R^ VOYAGES A^ suTimoiicd the Grv-mcur. xad afterwards stayed 3 Days ^^"^ for in Answ^s" bef:r;: he Landed his Men, yet then took it bv Sccrci, md zhsz onlv wrrii small Arms. I have been told that when he wtis idTiscd by the Jamaica Privateers, to tnki It hy Scratag^im 'm the Night, he replied, that he scomei to st^ a \':ctonr ; therefore when he went against it, he gave them warring of his Approach, by his Drums and Trumpets: yet he took the Fort at the first Onset, and immediitely became Master of the Place. It was raken a second time by English and French Privateers^ about the Tear 1678,* by surprise. They landed in the N'^ht about two Leagues from the Town, and marching into the Country^ lighted on a Path that brought them thither. The next Morning near Sun-rising, they entered the Town, when many of the Inhabitants were now stirring in their Houses; who hearing a noise in the Street, looked out to know the Occasion; and seeing armed Men marching towards the Fort, supposed them to be some Soldiers of their own Garrison, that were returned out of the Country; for about a Fortnight or 3 Weeks before, they had sent out a Party to suppress some Indians^ then in Rebellion ; a thing very common in this Country. Under favour of this Supposition, the Privateers marched through the Streets, even to the Fort, without the least Opposition. Nay, the Towns-People bad them Good Morrow; and congratulated their safe return; not discovering them to be Enemies, till they fired at the Centinels on the Fort-wall, and presently after began a furious Attack; and turning two small Guns, which they found in the Parade, against the Gates of the Fort, they soon made themselves Masters of it. The Town is not very rich, though as I said before, the only Sea-port on all this Coast. The chiefest Manufiicture * By a strong company of several hundreds of men with French com- missions. "In revenge for Spanish injuries they took Campeachy and kept it several days " in the summer of 1678. The French buccaneer dc Grammont captured it again in July 1686, and made it his base for two months, while he pillaged the district for dix au douze lieues d la rondt. Before he left the place // fU sauter la Forteresse and brula ginlralemeni toute la Ville. 148 i Ubbvroot), a rtch coMMODi*n' KoT the Country is Cotton-Cloth ; this serves for cluathing the Indians, and even the poorer sort of Spaniards wear '^5 nothing else. It is used also for making Sails for Ships, and remitted to other parts for the same purpose. Beside, Cotton-Cloth, and Salt fetched from the Salinas, J I know of no other vendible Commodity exported hence. ^M Indeed formerly this place was the Scale of the whole ^M Ijogwood-Trade ; which is therefore still called Palo ^M (i./. Wood) dc Campeachy ; tho' it did not grow nearer H tficn at 12 or 14 Leagues distance from the Town. ^M The place where the Spaniards did then cut it, was at ^| ^^ River called Champcton,' about 10 or 12 Leagues to ^M Lcxrward of Campeachy Town ; the Coast from thence ^M outh, the Land pretty high and rocky. TKe Native ^M dians that lived hereabouts, were hired to cut it for ^M Ryal > Day. it being then worth 90, too or iio/. H Tun. H After the English had taken Jamaica, and began to ^M : in this Bay, they found many Barks laden with it, ^| ut not knowing its value then, they either set them adrift H ■ burned them, saving only the Nails and Iron work; a ^M king now usual among the Privateers, taking no notice at ^M II of the Cargo, till Capt. James, having taken a great ^M nip laden with it, and brought her home to England, to H hcT for a Privateer, beyond his Expectation, sold his ^M l^ood at a great rate; tho' before he valued it so little ^M 'lat he burned of it all his Passage home. After his return ^| ► Jamaica, the English visiting this Bay, found out the H lace where It grew, and if they met no Prize at Sea, they ^M ould go to Champcton River, where they were certain to ^M ad lai^e Piles cut in their Hand, and brought to the Sea- ^M ide ready to be shipp'd oif. This was their Common ^M JVacticc ; till at last the Spaniards sent Soldiers thither to H nt their Depredations. H Bat by this time the English knew the Trees, as H ring ; and understanding their value, began to rummage H r Coasts of the Main, in search of it, till, according to H ■ ChanpotoB. To leewnrd is here to ihe toutli anil wr«I. ^H )49 ■ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AS, their desire, they found I^rge Groves of it, first at Cape ■^' Catoch ; (which, as I have ssud before, was the first Place where they settled to Logwood-cutdng) and loaded many Vessels from thence to Jamaica, and other Places. But it growing scarce there, they found out the Lagune of Trist in the Bay of Campeachy ; where they followed the same Trade, and have ever since continued it, even to the time of my being here : But to proceed. From the River Champeton to P(M^-Royal,* is about 1 8 Leagues ; the Coast S. S. W. or S. W. by S. Low-land iinth a sandy Bay against the Sea, and some Trees by the shore, with small Savannahs, mixt with small shrubby Woods within Land all the way. There is only one River between Champeton and Port-Royal, called Port Escondedo. Port-Royal is a broad entrance into a Salt Lagune, of 9 or ID Leagues long, and 3 or 4 wide, with 2 Mouths, one at each end. This Mouth of Port-Royal hath a Barr, whereon there is 9 or 10 Foot Water. Within the Barr it is deep enough, and there is good Anchoring on either side. The entrance is about a Mile over, and two Miles in length ; it hath fair sandy Bays on each side, iinth smooth Landing. Ships commonly anchor on the Weather or East-side next Champeton, both for the convenience of some Wells there dug on the Bays by the Privateers and Logwood- Cutters, as also to ride more out of the Tide, which here runs very strong. This Place is remarkable enough, because from hence the Land trends away West, and runs so for about 65 or 70 Leagues farther. On the West-side of this Harbour is a low Island, caird by Us Port-Royal-Island ; - which makes one side of the Mouth, as the Main does the other: It is about 2 Miles wide and 3 Leagues long, running East and West. * Port Royal, or Puerto Real, the entrance to the Laguna dc Tcrminos. The bar is of hard sand and sandstone, with much such a depth as Dampier gives. Within the bar there is good anchorage in from 9 to i fathoms, with hard sand, and ooze. The tide runs E.S.E. and W.N.W., from 3 to i^ knots. * Puerto Real Island. 150 V TRIST ISLAND ^ne East-end of this Island is sandy and pretty clear of : ^■ood», vith some Grass, bearing a smaJl pnckly Bur, no ' ^bgo* than a Grey Fca, which renders it very troublesome ^Btbose that walk bare-foot, as the Bay-Men often do. I here are some Bushes of Burton-wood : and a little further to the West grow large Sapadillo-Trees, whose Fruit is long and ver)- pleasant. The rest of the Island is more woody, especially the North-stde, which is full of white Mxngrov-c close to the shore. On the West-side of this Island, is another small tow Island, called Trist, separated from the former by a small Sslt-Crcck, scarce broad enough for a Canoa to paddle through. The Island Trisi is in some Places three Miles wide, ind about four Leagues in length ; running E. and W. The East-end is swampy and full of white Mangroves ; and •.he South-side much the same: The West-part is dry ^nd sandy, bearing a sort of long Grass, growing on Tufts cry thin. This is a sort of Savannah, with some large Palmcto-Trecs growing in it. The North-side of the West-end is full of Coco-Plum Bushes, and some Grapes. The Coco-Plum Bush ' is about eight or nine Foot Ktgh, spreading out into many Branches. Its Rhind black jnd smooth, the Leaves oval and pretty large, and of a iark Green. The Frutt is about the bigness of a Horse- Plum, but round ; some are black, some white, others rrddish : The Skin of the Plum is very thin and smooth ; the inside white, soft and woolly, rather fit to suck than hite, inclosing in the Middle a large soft Stone. This Fruit grows commonly in ihe Sand near the Sea ; and I have tasted some that have been saltish ; but they are commonly sweet and pleasant enough, and accounted very dbolcsome. The Body of the Grapc-Trce* is about two or three l-'x>t in Circumference, gn)wing seven or eight Foot high, 'Hen tends forth many Branches, whose Twigs are thick lod gross; the Leaves arc shaped much like an Ivy-Leaf, * TlM coco-plum {CkryifiiitlimMS haco). • Tfce Knpe tree, a diiub of iho Konu« Cfxrolobo. I'.VrCT^.T T ^^'^ ti:*-i 'V^^ ^^nr'njT a iitnnc* ir fTiuh.^: ^ gmrg the T'*'^ i..^ '^^"^ -le Tr*2:: r s ruarc -riet rrrc aai the iT/iJiu!: rrsijbt.. ▼'r:! s. jsr?*: szri inimt ir tic saddle. 7>-?t 5- -:::-■: 2X ^*r7 z^^ggrrr sane ^Ttntsiimt^ hz: off Iittk ^..-vy^iitAt-i. zzi*: ^rj-jui^ XTrnr s' jarri ~ic 5:ct jtad Limbs ^/ rzxK Tr«: ar* ^'^'ji ?r¥»L T^xrr\z * liissr i£^\j e ^ Fire, *ii*r»f ';r*: 'jr:*r:: iiK:i rr -ie: Prrr2t2=r5 ^i hcrrtfr: tic /j^ *mK!r ^X'mZSi ^9^Z£SL ?'^^,'*T- 7 Srt: Ariraajt of tis IfTigi-: irr. lizsrds. V^itn tTuC r>Kr: hwA^ tie ru=L=>-c sral] Lizzni^ there n ir-y/tJitr vjt: of i iirs*: kEai, ziTd 2 LToo-lizard: 'Ir^n Crtat ;iT^ » ibip^d niLxh rcr the odacr, bat almost as f^;{ it 1 MaTi^i Arr-, and r: has a lar^ Comb on its Head ; wfe-rw ;r it a«au3tsxJ :t sets :ts C:<3ib up aa cad ; but other- v;v: 5t fict dcnrn flat: Htrt are two or three sorts of fWiakcs : v^mc very large, as I hare been told. At the West-end of the Island close by the Sea, you may dijK in the Sand five or six foot deep, and find good frcth Water: There arc commonly Wells ready made by Seamen to water their Ships ; but they soon fill up, if not cleared ; and if you dig too deep, your Water will be salt. T\\\% Uland was seldom clear of inhabitants when the English vJMfc<! the Bay for Logwood ; for the biggest Ships did always ride here in six or seven Fathom Water close by the nhorc ; l>ut smaller Vessels ran up three Leagues farther to One-Bush Key, of which in my former Chapter. The Second Mouth or Entrance into the Lagune is Ixttwccn Trist, and Beef-Island/ and is about three Mile wide. It is shoal without, and only two Channels to come in : The deepest Channel on the Spring-Tide, has twelve hoot Water. It lies near the middle of the Mouth; hard Sttiul on the Bar; the West Channel is about ten Foot Wtttrr, and lies pretty near Beef-Island : you run in with thr ScR-Brccze, and sound all the way; taking your Hounding from Bccf-Island shore. The bottom is soft Ott/, and it shoals gradually. Being shot in within Beef- * Cnmicn Island. 152 r LAGDNA TERMINA Point, jrou will have three Fathom ; then you may ind over towards Trist, till you come near the shore, and Te anchor as you please : There is good anchoring any ere within the Bar between Trist and Beef-Island, but : Tide is much stronger than at Port-Royal, This is : other Mouth or Opening to the Salt Lagunc before ;ntioned. This Lagunc is call'd by the Spaniards, Laguna crmiru, or the Lagunc of Tides, because they run very ang here. Small Vessels, as Barks, Periagoes, or Canoas, ly sail through this Lagune, from one Mouth to the llier, or into such Creeks, Rivers, or smaller I^guncs, as Ipty themselves into this, of which here are many : The r of note on the East-part of this Lagune, as you come at Port-Royal, is the River Summasenta, TTiis River, though but small, yet is big enough for feriagues to enter. It disembogues on the South-side near miiidlc of the Lagune.' There was formerly an Indian 'tllagc named Summasenta, near the Mouth of the River ; 1 another large Indian Town call'd Chucquebul, seven eight Leagues up in the Country. This latter was once :en by thi Privateers; by whom I have been informed, it there were about two thousand Families of Indians in zn^ two or three Churches, and as many Spanish Friars, _:h iin white Men beside. The land near this River Ids plenty of T.<^wood. From Summasenta River to One-Bush-Key' is four or fe Leagues, the shore running West. I have described ne^Bu<h-Key, and the Creek against it, which, as I said, •very narrow, and not above a Mile long before it opens |o another wide Lake, lying nearest N. and S, called the Lagune. It is about a I.A:ague and a half wide, and Leagues long, encompassed with Mangrove-Trees, the S, E. Otrner of it there is another Creek about a \le wide at the Mouth, running six or seven Miles into : Country ; on both sides of it grows plenty of Logwood ; • The UMnnanDi ha* to many tnouihn thnt ihis mouth cinnr^i he idenii- L Ttel called Kici lUkhaca apprnn Ki he the one meanl hcrr. ' Onr-Both Key, and the \afCwood laKonni, are situated at the tnnuth -T_ «_■:._ L^ 1^ ii^ a.W. uf the Lagunn de Termini* 153 1 CAPTAIX DAM PIERS VOYAGES AS. therefort :t was ir.hab-rei by Eagl^hmcn who lived in '^'"^ small Companies from three to ten in a Company; and settled themselves at their best coavenicncc for cutting. At the head of the Creek they made a Path, leading into a large Savannah full of black Cattle, Horses, and Deer ; which was often visited by them upon occasion. At the North-end, and about the middle of the East Lagune, there is another small Creek like that which comes out against One-Bush-Key, but less and shallower, which dischargeth it self into Laguna Termina, against a small sandy Key, called by the English Series's Key, from one Captain Series,^ who first careen*d his Vessel here, and was afterwards killed in the Western Lagune, by one of his Company as they were cutting Logwood together. This Captain Series was one of Sir Henry Morgan's Com- manders, at the sacking of Panama; who being sent out to cruise in a small Vessel in the South-Seas, happened to surprize at Taboca, the Boatsw^n and most of the Crew belonging to the Trinity^ a Spanish Ship, on board which were the Friars and Nuns, with all the old Gentlemen and Matrons of the Town, to the number of 1500 Souls, besides an immense Treasure in Silver and Gold, as I was informed by Captain Peralta,* who then commanded her, ' Captain Series or Searles. Panama was sacked in January 1671. After the city had been won, Henry Morgan despatched Captain Searles to cruise for the Trinity^ a galleon '* very richly laden with all the King's plate and great ciuantity of riches of gold, pearl, jewels, and other most precious goods, of all tne best and richest merchants of Panama. On board of this pfalleoo were also the religious women, belonging to the nunnery of the said city, who had embarked with them all the ornaments of their church, consisting in great quantity of gold, plate, and other things of great value." This golden galleon had " only seven guns and ten or twelve muskets " for her deifence. She had little food aboard her, and *' no more sails than the uppermost sails of the main mast" Her '* Boatswain and most of the Crew* were taken at Taboga, where they were trying to get water. Unfortunately for the buccaneers, Taboga was stored with "several sorts of rich wines" with which Searles' men " plentifully debauched themselves." By the time thcf had recovered their wits the galleon had been brought to some safe harbour. ' I)(m Francisco de Peralta, *'an old and stout Spaniard, a native of Andaliihin in Spain." He became a prisoner to the buccaneers at the bloody battle of Perico. His ship the Trinity became the buccaneei's cruiser, and as such she roved the South Seas under Bartholomew Sharp. Peralta was released at Coquimbo, December 6, 1680. He had become " very frantic through too much hardship and melancholy," and the buccaneen were afraid to keep him longer. 154 RISE OF THE LOGWOOD TRADE IS he did afterwards, when she was taken by Captain Sharp ; ' all which he might have taken in the Ship had he ' pursued her. On ihc West-side of the East-Lagune, there is a small Skirt of Mangroves, that separates it from another running twnillel with it, called the East-Lagune, which is about the rngncss of the former. Towards the North-end of this Lagune runs a small TLck, coming out of the East-Lagune, deep enough for ':iail Barks to pass through. At the South-end o( this Lagune, there is a Creek about a Mile wide at its Mouth; and half a Mile from thence it divides into two Branches ; one called the East, the other ihc West Branch, both deep enough for small Barks seven or eight Miles up. The Water is fresh ten .Months; but in the midst of the dry Season 'tis brackish. Four Miles from the Mouth, the Land on both sides these two Branches is wet and swampy, affording only Mangroves by the Creek's sides; only at the Heads of them, there arc many large Oaks, besides which I did never ice any growing within the Tropicks : but 20 Paces within that grows plenty of Logwood, therefore the Cutters settled themselves here also. On the West-side of the West-Branch lyes a large PiAiure for Cattle about three Miles from the Creek, to ■ iich the Logwood-Cutters had made Paths from their !'jU to hunt Cattle, which are always there in great jmbcpi, and commonly fatter than those in the neigh- "^ring Savannahs; and therefore was called the fat Savan- ih ; and this Wcst-Crcck was always most inhabited by ■gwood-Cutters. TTic Logwood-Trade was grown very common before iame hither, here being, as I said before, about 260 or ; Men living in all the Lagune and at Bcef-Island, of Mch Isle I shall speak hereafter: This Trade had its Rise ■tn the decay of Privateering ; for after Jamaica was well •lied by the Engliih, and a Peace established with Spain, t tsAm Irf SawMtii. Shaqi » '55 >I cng;)gcd nl Penco. CAPTAIN DA?i^?:ER5 VOYAGES ijf. liii rr:T^-:^:r-= irn: had mnsrr: 3r*i -pcxi plundering -'"^- tit SirsrrizriL. ir^t ret t: tier- siEfs"; for thcv had rr:iiiri.-T Fren vixtt-r^tr tiiy grc i",i now wanring S-'rsis-jnr*- tt^t; f:rri:i shiir tc r: to Pent Guavas, -v'zart tt-i PrrritiiT-Tnd; still rtcTinu^d, or into the Bay f:r L.:j£Tr:.:ii Tbi nir* Iziostrious sort of irt^ trziz*^!. If trty r^isfei : jr: tbought it a dry Business t: ::rl it C-rn.=:r ^>3C. Thcj -srsr^ good Marks-Men, gjif «.: t:»:i =:-iri isl^ht in Hunting; but neither of tlt'js.* F.Tr'-iTtrgtts iSrctei tltcTn so much as Privateering; thsref'.rt tt^ iTztn mlc Sallies out in small Parties among tbt rrtarts: Irhfiin Towns; where they plundered and brought iway thi Indian Women to serve them at their Huts, and smt their Husbands to be sold at Jamaica; besides they had not forg-it their old Drinking-bouts, and would still spend ^'^ cc ^cJ. at a sitting aboard the Ships that came hither from Jamaica; carousing and firing of Guns three or four Days together. And though after- wards many sober Men came into the Bay to cut Wood, yet by degrees the old Standards so debauched them that they could never settle themselves under any Civil Govern- ment, but continued in their Wickedness, till the Spaniards, encouraged by their careless Rioting, fell upon them, and took most of them singly at their own Huts ; and carried them away Prisoners to Campeachy or La Vera Cruz; from whence thev were sent to Mexico, and sold to several Tradesmen in that City ; and from thence, after two or three Years, when they could speak Spanish, many of them made their Escapes, and marched in by-Paths, back to La Vera Cruz, and by the F/o/a conveyed to Spain, and so to England. I have spoke with many of them since, who told me that none of them were sent to the Silver Mines to work, but kept in or near the City, and never suffered to go with their Caravans to New Mexico, or that way. I relate this, because it is generally suggested that the Spaniards commonly send their Prisoners thither, and ' In 1672, when Lord John Vaughan became Governor of Jamaica, " with orders to enforce the late treaty with Spain." 156 SEASONS I them very barbarously; but luld 1 learn that . never I ; whether for fear of " V-jovcring their Weakness, or for any other Reason, I . ..fw not. But to proceed. It is most certain that the «wood-Cuttcrs, that were in the Bay -vhen 1 was there, e ail routed or taken ; a thing 1 ever feared, and that the reason that moved me at last to come away, tough a Place where a Man might have gotten an Bte. Having thus given an Account of the first setting of I Place by ray Country-men, I shall next say something xmtng the Seasons of the Year, some particulars of the untry, its Animals, of the Log wood -Trade, and their Bncr of Hunting, and several remarkable Passages that ►pcncd during my stay there. This part of the Bay of Campeachy lies in about t8 d. North I^t. The Sea-Breezes here in fair Weather, are S*. N.E, or N. The Land-winds are at S. S. F- and S. ; in bad Weather at f\. S. E, a hard gale for two or three f9 together. The dry Season begins in September, and ds till April or May; then comes in the wet Season, "i b^ins with Tornadoes; first one in a Day, and by cs increasing till June; and then you have set Rains the Utter end of August. This swells the Rivers so t they overflow, and the Savannahs begin to be covered b Water; and although there may be some intermission dry Weather, yet there are still plentiful showers of > that as the Water docs not increase, neither does Iccrease, but continues thus till the North Winds are set strong, and then all the Savannahs for many Miles, seem be but pan of the Sea. The Norths do commonly set about the beginning of October, and continue by intervals March. But of tnesc I shall speak more in my Chapter Winds, These Winds blowing right in on the Land, ; in the Sea, and keep the Tides from their constant «e u long as they last, which is sometimes two or : Days; by this means the Freshes are pent up, and rtfow much more than before, though there be less They blow most fiercely in December and January ; »57 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. but afterwards they decrease in Strength ; and are neither ^^^^ so frequent nor histing, and then the Freshes b^n to drun from off the low Ground. By the middle of February the Land is all dry ; and in the next Month perhaps you will scarce get Water to drink, even in those Savannahs that but six Weeks before were like a Sea. By the banning of April, the Ponds also in the Savannahs are all dryed up, and one that knows not how to get Water othcrways may perish for Thirst ; but those that are acquainted here, in their Necessity make to the Woods, and refresh themselves with Water that they find in wild Pines. The wild Pine is a Plant so called, because it somewhat resembles the Bush that bears the Pine : they are commonly supported, or grow from some Bunch, Knot or Excrescence of the Tree, where they take root, and grow upright The Root is short and thick, from whence the Leaves rise up in Folds one within another, spreading off at the top: They are of a good thick substance, and about ten or twelve Inches long. The out-side Leaves are so compact as to contain the Rain-water as it falls. They will hold t Pint and a half, or a Quart ; and this Water refreshes the Leaves and nourishes the Root. When we find these Pines^ we stick our Knives into the Leaves just above the Root, and that lets out the Water, which we catch in our Hats, as I have done many times to my great Relief. The Land near the Sea or the Lagunes is Mangrovy, and always wet, but at a little distance from it, it is fast and firm, and never overflow'd but in the wet Season. The Soil is a strong yellowish Clay: But yet the upper Coat or Surface is a Black Mold, though not deep. Here grow divers sorts of Trees of no great bulk or height Among these the Logwood-Trees thrive best, and arc very plentiful ; this being the most proper Soil for them : for they do not thrive in dry Ground, neither shall you see any growing in rich black Mold. They are much like our White-Thorns in England ; but generally a great deal bigger : the Rind of the young growing Branches is wlute and smooth ; with some Prickles shooting forth here and there : So that an Englishman not knowing the diflerencei 158 vn VOOD TREES would take thcni for White-Thorns ; but the Body and akJ "Id Branches arc blackish; the Hind rougher, with few r no Prickles. The Leaves are small and shaped like ' '.e Common White •Thorn-Leaf, of a palish Green. We ilways chusc to cut the old black-rinded Trees; for these iavc less Sap, and require but little pains to chip or cut it. The Sap is white, and the Heart red : The Heart is used Tiuch for dyeing ; therefore we chip off all the white Sap, -\'.l wc ccime to the Heart; and then it is fit to be trans- >rted to Europe. After it has been chip'd a little while. ■ turns black ; and if it lyes in the Water it dyes it like Ink ; and sometimes it has been used to write with. Some Trrcs are five or six Foot in circumference: and these we in scarce cut into Logs small enough for a Man's Burthen, ithout great Labour; and therefore are forced to blow -.rm up. It is a very ponderous sort of Wood, and burns Tcry well, making a clear strong fire, and very lasting. We always harden the Steels of our Fire-Arms, when they aiT faulty, in a Log-wood fire, if wc can get it, but other- wayi, as I said before, with Burton-wood or the Grape- Tncc, The true Logwood I think grows only in the Country of Jucatan ; and even there but only in some Trac e s near the Sea. The chicfest places for it are either " re or at Cape Catoch, and on the South-side of Jucatan ■ the Bay of Honduras. There arc other sorts of Wood - jch like it in Colour, and used for dyeing also ; some ■re esteemed, others of lesser value. Of these sorts ■'.■'x>d-wood and Stock -fish- wood are of the natural growth f America. The Gulph of Nicaragua, which opens sgatnst the Isle r Providence, is the only Place that I know in the North- >-ii, that produces the Blood-wood. And the Land on -'X other side of the Country against it in the South-Seas, --Dduceth the same sorts. TTiis Wood is of a brighter red than the Log-wood. -■ WIS sold for 30/. per Tun, when Log-wood was but at U or 15; and at the same time Stock- fish- wood went at r 8. ThU last sort grows in the Country near Rio la , to the East of St. Martha, by the sides of Rivers in CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Low-Land. It is a smaller sort of Wood than the 1676 former. I have seen a Tree much like the Logwood, in the River of Conception in the Samballoes ; and I know it will dye ; but whether it be either of these two sorts, I know not : Besides here and in the places before-mentioned, I have not met with any such Wood in America. At Cherburg near Sierra-Leone in Africa, there is Camwood, which is much like Blood- wood, if not the same. And at Tunqueen, in the East-Indies, there is also such another sort : I have not heard of any more in any part of the World. But to proceed. The Land as you go farther from the Sea riseth still somewhat higher ; and becomes of a more plantable Mould : There the Trees are generally of another sort ; growing higher and taller than the Logwood-Trees or any near them : Beyond this, you still enter into large Savannahs of long Grass, two or three Miles wide ; in some Places much more. The Mould of the Savannahs is generally black and deep, producing a coarse sort of sedgy Grass : In the latter end of the dry Time, we set fire to it, which runs like Wild-fire, and keeps burning as long as there is any Fewel ; unless some good shower of Rain put it out : Then pre- sently springs up a new green Crop, which thrives beyond all belief. The Savannahs are bounded on each side with Ridges of higher Land, of a light-brown Colour; deep and very fruitful : producing extraordinary great high Trees. The Land for ten or twenty Miles from the S«, is generally compos'd of many Ridges of delicate Wood- land, and large Furrows of pleasant grassy Savannahs, alternately intermixed with each other. The Animals of this Country are. Horses, Bullocks, Deer, Waree, Pecary, Squashes, Possums, Monkeys, Ant- Bears, Sloths, Armadilloes, Porcupines, Land -turtle. Guanoes, and Lizards of all kinds. The Squash is a four-footed Beast, bigger than a Cat: Its Head is much like a Foxes, with short Ears and a loitf Nose. It has pretty short Legs, and sharp Claws, by which it will run up Trees like a Cat. The Skin is covered with 160 SQUASHES— LARGE MONKEYS short fine yellowish Hair. The Flesh of it is good, sweet, ab wholesome Meat. Wc commonly skin and roast it ; and "^ •'".en we dll it Pig; and 1 think it eats as well. It feeds n nothing but good Fruit ; therefore we find them most Among the Sapadillo-Trees ; This Creature never rambles very far : and being taken young, will become as tame as a Dug, and be as roguish as a Monkey. The Monkeys that are in these Parts are the ugliest 1 ever saw. They are much bigger than a Hare, and have great Tails about two Foot and a half long. The under- side of their Tails is all bare, with a black hard Skin ; but the upper-side, and all the Body, is covered with coarse, long, black, staring Hair. These Creatures keep together 20 or 30 in a Company, and ramble over the Woods ; leaping from Tree to Tree. If they meet with a single PervMi they will threaten to devour htm. When I have been alone I have been afraid to shoot them, especially the first Time I met them. They were a great Company dancing from Tree to Tree, over my Head ; chattering and making a terrible Noise ; and a great many grim Faces, and shewing antick Gestures. Some broke down dry Sticks and threw at me ; others scattered their Urine and Dung about my Ears; at last one bigger than the rest, came to a ■mail Limb just over my Head; and leaping directly at me, made me start back; but the Monkey caught hold of he Bough with the tip of his Tail; and there continued ringing to fro, and making Mouths at me. At last I : irt 00. they still keeping me Company, with the like cnacing Postures, till 1 came to our Huts. The Tails of ■ ~ csK Monkeys are as good to them as one of their Hands ; ; i they will hold as fast by them. If two or more of us ■ ar together they would hasten from us. The Females th ihar young ones are much troubled to leap after the 'laics ; for they have commonly two : one she carries ■Jer one of her Arms; the other sits on her Back, and 'jsp» ber two Fore-Paws about her Neck. These Monkeys ,rr the most sullen I ever met with ; for all the An wc '^U IMC. would never ume them. It is a hard matter to 'oqc one of them, so as to take it ; for if it gets hold with tfWh. 11. t6l L CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. its Claws or Tail, it will not fall as long as one breath of 1676 Ljfg remains. After I have shot at one and broke a Leg or an Arm, I have pitied the poor Creature to see it look and handle the wounded Limb, and turn it about from side to side. These Monkeys are very rarely, or (as some say) never on the Ground. The Ant-Bear is a four-footed Beast, as big as a pretty large Dog; with rough black-brown Hair: It has short Legs ; a long Nose and little Eyes ; a very little Mouth, and a slender Tongue like an Earth-worm about five or »x Inches long. This Creature feeds on Ants ; therefore you always find them near an Ants Nest or Path. It takes its Food thus. It lays its Nose down flat on the Ground, close by the Path that the Ants travel in, (whereof here arc many in this Country) and then puts out his Tongue athwart the Path : the Ants passing forwards and backwards continually, when they come to the Tongue make a stop, and in two or three Minutes time it will be covered all over with Ants ; which she perceiving draws in her Tongue, and then eats them ; and after puts it out again to trapan more. They smell very strong of Ants, and taste much stronger; for I have eaten of them. I have met with these Creatures in several places of America, as well as here ; {i.e. in the Samballoes and in the South-Seas, on the Mexican Continent). The Sloth is a four-footed, hairy, sad-coloured Animal ; somewhat less than the Ant-Bear, and not so rough : Its Head is round, its Eyes small ; it has a short Nose, and very sharp Teeth ; short Legs, but extraordinary long sharp Claws. This Creature feeds on Leaves, whether indifferently of all sorts, or only on some particular kinds, I know not They are very mischievous to the Trees where they come^ and are so slow in Motion, that when they have eaten all the Leaves on one Tree, before they can get down from that and climb another, and settle themselves to their fresh Banquet (which takes them up five or six Days, though the Trees stand near,) they are nothing but Skin and Bones, although they came down plump and fat from the last Tree. They never descend till they have stript every 162 1 SLOTHS— ARMADILLOS LJmb and Bough, and made them as bare as Winter. It ukcs them up eight or nine Minutes to move one of their ' Feet three Inches forward ; and they move all their four Feet one after another, at the same slow rate ; neither will stripes make them mend their pace ; which I have tried to do, by whipping them ; but they seem insensible, and can neither be frighted, or provoked to move faster. The Armadillo (so called from its Suit of Armour) is as big u a small sucking Fig : The Body of it pretty long. This Creature is inclosed in a thick Shell, which guards ail ics Back, and comes down on both Sides, and meets under the Belly, leaving room for the four Legs; the Head is imall, with a Nose like a Pig, a pretty long Neck, and can put out its Head before its Body when it walks ; but on any danger she puts it in under the Shell ; and drawing in her rcet, she lies stock-still like a Land-Turtle : And though you toss her about she will not move herself. The Shell is jointed in the Middle of the Back ; so that she can turn the Fore-part of her Body about which way she pleases. The Kcet arc like those of a Land-Turtle, and it has strong Claws wherewith it digs holes in the Ground like a Coney. The flesh is ven- sweet, and tastes much like a Land-Turtle. The Porcupine being a Creature well known, I'll pass it n nicncc. The Beasts of Prey that arc bred in this Country are rigic-Ou, and (as is reported by our Men) Lions. The Tigrr-Cat is about the Bigness of a Bull-Dog, with short Legs, and a truss Body shaped much like a Mastiff, but in all things else, (viz.) its Head, the colour of its Hair, and the manner of its Preying, much resembling the Tigre, only tomewhat less. Here are great Numbers of them. They prey on young Calves or other Game; whereof here is plenty. And because they do not want Food, they are the less to be feared. But I have wisht them farther off, when I have met them in the Woods ; because their Aspect appears so very stately and fierce. I never did see any Lion in thii Country ; but I have been informed by two r three Persons that they did see Lions here ; But 1 am YAired that ihcy arc not numerous. .63 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Here are a great many poisonous Creatures in this '^76 Country; more particularly Snakes of divers sorts, some yellow, some green, and others of a dun Colour, with black and yellowish Spots. The yellow Snake is commonly as big as the Small of a Man's Leg ; and six or seven Foot long. These are a lazy sort of Creatures, for they lie still and prey on Lizards, Guanoes, or other small Animals that come in their way. It is reported that sometimes they lirk in Trees : and that they are so mighty in strength, as to hold a Bullock fast by one of his Horns, when they happen to come so near that she can twist her self about the Limb of the Tree, and the Horn at once. These are accounted very good Meat by some, and are eaten frequently : I my self have tried it for curiosity, but cannot commend it. I have heard some Bay-men report, that they have seen some of this kind here as big as an ordinary Man's Waste ; but I never saw any such. The green Snakes are no bigger about than a Mans Thumb, yet four or five Foot long : The Backs are of a very lively green Colour, but their Bellies inclining to yellow. These are commonly in Bushes among the green Leaves, and prey upon small Birds. This I have often seen, and was once in danger to be bit by one before I saw it : For I was going to take hold of a Bird that fluttered and cried out just by me, yet did not fly away, neither could I imagine the Reason, till reaching out my Hand, I perceived the Head of a Snake close by it ; and looking more narrowly, I saw the upper Part of the Snake, about two or three Inches from his Head, twisted about the poor Bird. What they feed on besides Birds I know not, but they are said to be very venomous. The dun-coloured Snake is a little bigger than the green Snake, but not above a Foot and a half, or two Foot long ; these we should often see in and about our Huts ; but did not kill them, because they destroyed the Mice, and are very nimble in chacing those Creatures. Besides Snakes, here are Scorpions and Centapees in abun- 164 ■1 ^Hbncc. Here are also Gally-wasps. These are Creatures •omcwhat resembling Lizards, but larger ; their Bodies ' about the thickness of a Man's Arm, having four short Legs, and small short Tails; their colour a dark brown. These Creatures live in old hollow Trunks of Trees, and »rc commonly found in wet swampy Ground, and are said tn he very poisonous. Here are also a sort of Spiders of a prodigious Size, K>me near as big as a Man's Fist, with long small Legs like the Spiders in Kngland : they have two Teeth, or rather Horns an Inch and a half, or two Inches long, and of a proportionable Bigness, which are black as Jeti, smooth as GlasB, and their small End sharp as a Thorn ; they are not strait but bending. These Teeth we often preserve. Some wrcar them in their Tobacco-pouches to pick their Pipe*. Others preserve them for Tooth-Pickers, especially such as were troubled with the Tooth-ach ; for by report they will expel that Pain, though 1 cannot justify it of my own Knowledge. The Backs of these Spiders are covered with a dark yellowish Down, as soft as Velvet. Some say ti»e»c Spiders are venomous, others not ; whether is true 1 csnnm determine. Though this Country be so often over-flown with ■atcr, yet it swarms with Ants, of several sorts, viz. great, ill, black, yellow, &c. The great black Ant stings or I simost as bad as a Scorpion ; and next to this the U) yellow Ant's Bite is most painful ; for their Sting |Eke a Spark of Fire ; and ihcy are so thick among the Boughs in some Places, that one shall be covered with them before he is aware. These Creatures have Nests on great Trees, placed on the Body between the Limbs : ■'<mc of their Nests are as big as a Hogshead ; this is their A'intcr Habitation ; for in the wet Season they all repair . these their Cilics: Here they preserve their Eggs. Antv-Eggs arc as much esteemed by the Planters in the ■Vesi-Indics for feeding their Chickens, as Great Oat-meal •ith us in England. In the dry Season when they leave :-dr Nests, they swarm over all the Woodland; for they ■^rrtr trouble the Savannahs: You may then see great .6s CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Paths made by them in the Woods of three or four Inches 1676 broad beaten as plain as the Roads in England. They go out light, but bnng home heavy Loads on their Backs, all of the same Substance, and equal in Bigness: I never observed any thing besides pieces of green Leaves, so big that I could scarce see the Insect for his Burthen ; yet they would march stoutly, and so many still pressing after, that it was a very pretty Sight, for the Path lookt perfectly green with them. There was one sort of Ants of a black Colour, pretty large, with long Legs ; these would march in Troops, as if they were busie in seeking somewhat ; they were always in haste, and followed their Leaders exactly, let them go whither they would ; these had no beaten Paths to walk in, but rambled about like Hunters : Some- times a Band of these Ants would happen to march through our Huts, over our Beds, or into our Pavilions, nay sometimes into our Chests, and there ransack every part ; and where-ever the foremost went, the rest all came after : We never disturbed them, but gave them free Liberty to search where they pleased ; and they would all march off before night. These Companies were so great, that they would be two or three Hours in passing by, though they went very fast. The Fowls of this Country are Humming-Birds, Black- Birds, Turtle-Doves, Pigeons, Parrots, Parakites, Quams, Corresoes, Turkies, Carrion-Crows, Subtle- Jacks, Bill-Birds, Cockrecoes, &c. The Humming-Bird is a pretty little feather'd Creature, no bigger than a great over-grown Wasp, with a black Bill no bigger than a small Needle, and his Legs and Feet in Proportion to his Body. This Creature does not wave his Wings like other Birds when it flies, but keeps them in a continued quick Motion like Bees or other Insects, and like them makes a continual humming Noise as it flies. It is very quick in Motion, and haunts about Flowers and Fruit, like a Bee gathering Honey, making many near Addresses to its delightful Objects, by visiting them on all Sides, and yet still keeps in Motion, sometimes on one Side, sometimes on the other ; as often rebounding a Foot or two back on a sudden, and 166 W PIGEONS— QUAMS—CORRESOS ^B qnickJy returns again, keeping thus about one Flower B^ or six Minutes, or more. There are two or three sorts ' HF them, some bigger than others, but all very smalt, Hnthcr are they coloured alike ; the largest are of a Dbckish Colour. The Black-Bird is somewhat bigger than ours in England; it has a longer Tail, but like them in Colour: ~~~ f are sometimes called Chattering Crows, because they latter like a Magpy. There are three Sorts of Turtle-Doves (viz.) white- sted Doves, dun-coloured Doves, and Ground-Doves. lie while Breast* are the biggest; they are of a blewish / Colour with white Breasts; these are fine, round and nfflp, and almost as big as a Pigeon. The next sort are I over of a dun, lesser than the former, and not so round. _ Ground-Dove is much bigger than a Sky-Lark, of a dull grey, very round and plump, and commonly runs in Pairs on the Ground, and probably thence have their Name, The other two sorts fly in Pairs, and feed on "*~ , which they commonly gather themselves from the i where they grow; and all three sorts are very good Pigeons are not very common here ; they are less than r Wood-Quests,' and as good Food. The Quam * is as big as an ordinary Hen Turkey, of a h dun Colour ; its Bill like a Turkeys ; it flies about the Woods ; feeds on Berries, and is very good The Correso* is a larger Fowl than the Quam; The ick i* black, the Hen is of a dark brown. The Cock ^ a Crown of black Feathers on his Head, and appears f stately. These live also on Berries, and arc very good 1; but their Bones arc said to be poisonous; therefore » either burn or bury them, or throw them into the r for fear our Dogs should eat them. " or " wood-<|ue»t " (for the wild pigeon) ii ■ Thtymm h a naa. Then are >ome iixtf varieties. ^AaaiBM lorn el die word curauow {cnra^}, or wild liirke^. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Carrion-Crows are blackish Fowls about the Bigness of 1676 Ravens; they have bald Heads, and reddish bald Necks like Turkeys, and therefore by Strangers that come newly from Europe, are often mistaken for such. These live wholly on Flesh, (and are therefore called Carrion-Crows :) There are great numbers of them : They are heavy, dull Creatures, and by their perching long at one place they seem to be very lazy : yet they are quick enough to find out their Prey; for when we hunt in the Woods or Savannahs, as soon as we have killed a Beast, they will immediately flock about us from all Parts, and in less than an Hour's Time there will be two or three hundred, though at first there was not one to be seen. I have sometimes admired from whence so many came so sud- denly; for we never see above two or three at a place, before they come to feast on a Carkass. « Some of the Carrion-Crows are all over white, but their Feathers look as if they were sullied: They have bald Heads and Necks like the rest; they are of the same Bigness and Make ; without any Difference but in Colour ; and we never see above one or two of these white ones at a time ; and 'tis seldom also that we see a great Number of the black ones, but we see one white one amongst them. The Logwood-Cutters call the white ones King Carrion- Crows, and say, that they are much bigger than the others ; and that when a great Number are assembled about a Carcass, if a King Carrion-Crow be among them, he falls on first, and none of the others will taste the least Morsel, till he has filled his Belly and is withdrawn ; nay, they will sit perching on the Trees about him, without approach- ing the Carcass, till he flies away ; and then in an instant they fall on all together. I have seen of the King Carrion- Crows, but could not perceive them to be bigger than the rest; neither were the black ones, their Companions, so .unmannerly as to let them eat without Company ; they arc very voracious, and will dispatch a Carcass in a Trice: For that Reason the Spaniards never kill them, but fine any one that shall : And I think there is also an Act in Jamaica that prohibits their Destruction ; and the Log- 168 SUBTLE-JACKS— BILL-BIRDS Cutlers, tho' under no such Obligation, yet are i I zealously superstitious, that none will hurt them, for ' fear of receiving some Damage afterwards, Subtle-Jacks' are Birds as big as Pigeons; they are Mtly blackish; the Tips of their Wing-Feathers are Pcltowtsh, as are also their Bills. They have a peculiar I wonderful cunning way of building different from any : Their Nests hang down from the Boughs of lofty I whose Bodies are clean without Limbs for a con- Idcrabtc Height : The Branches to which they fasten them, : those that spread farthest out from the Body ; and the ! Extremities of those Boughs are only used by them. 1 Trees that grow single by themselves at some distance om cithers, they build clear round ; but If they joyn to , they make Choice of such only as are bordering a Savannah, Pond or Creek, and hang down their "Scsts from those Umbs that spread over those Savannahs, ^ic. n^lccting such as arc near other Trees : Their Nests .-.ang down two or three Foot from the Twigs to which hey arc fa.slned, and look just like Cabbage-Nets stuft with Hay. The Thread that fastens the Nest to the Twig is made of long Grass (as is also the Nest it self) very ingeniously twisted together : It is but small at the Twig ; but near the Nest grows thicker. The Nest has a Hole in the Side for the Bird to enter at, and 'tis very pmty to sec twenty or thirty of them hanging round a rrec. They arc all called by the English, Subtle-Jacks, xcauie of this uncommon way of Building. TTicrc are two or three sorts of Bill-Birds,* so called \iy the English, because their Bills arc almost as big as tbeimclves. The largest I ever saw arc about the Size ■-■{ English Wood-peckers, and much like them : There ire othen of a smaller sort ; but they are not often met »ilh, and I never saw many of them. Cockrccocs are short-winged Birds, coloured like Partridge, but somewhat lesser ; neither arc they so plump titd round- They have long Legs, delighting to run on 169 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Ground among Woods in swampy Places or near 1676 Creeks. They make a loud Noise Mornings and Even- ings, and answer one another very prettily ; and they are extraordinary sweet Meat. The Water-Fowls are Duck and Mallard ; Curlews, Herons, Crabcatchers,^ Pelicans, Cormorants, Fishing- Hawks, Men-of- War-Birds, Boobies, &c. There are three sorts of Ducks, viz. The Muscovy, the Whistling and the common Duck. Muscovy-Ducks are less than ours, but otherwise exactly alike. They perch on old dry Trees, or such as have no Leaves on them, and seldom light on the Ground but to feed. Whistling-Ducks are somewhat less than our common Duck, but not difFering from them in Shape or Colour: In flying, their Wings make a pretty sort of whistling Noise. These also perch on Trees as the former. The other sort are like our Common Ducks, both in Bigness and Colour, and I have never observed them to pitch upon Trees. All three sorts are very good Meat. Here are two sorts of Curlews diflFerent in Bigness and Colour ; the greater are as big as Turkeys, with long Legs and long crooked Bills, like a Snipe's, in Length and Bigness proportionable to the Bulk of their Bodies : They are of a dark Colour ; their Wings black and white ; their Flesh black, but very sweet and wholesome : They arc caird by the English double Curlews, because they are twice as big as the other sort. The small Curlews are of a dusky brown, with long Legs and Bills like the former: their Flesh is most esteemed as being the sweetest. Herons are like ours in England in Bigness, Shape and Colour. Crabcatchers are shaped and coloured like Herons, but they are smaller : They feed on small Crabs no bigger than one's Thumb, of which there is great Plenty. Pelicans are large flat-footed Fowls, almost as big as Geese, and their Feathers in Colour like them : they have * The crab-eating American herons (Butarides virescens), 170 PELICANS— CORMORANTS ^s, long Necks, and their Bills are about two / Inches broad and seventeen or eighteen long ; the fore-part " of their Necks or Breasts is bare, and covered with a soft, smooth, yet loose Skin, like that about the Necks of Turkies: This Skin is of the Colour of their Feathers, mixt with a dark and light grey, so exactly interwoven that it appcari very beautiful. They are a very heavy Bird, and leldom fly far, or very high from the Water : They commonly sit on Rocks at some Distance from the Shore, where they may look about them. They seem to be very melancholy Fowls, by their perching all alone: they sit as if they were sleeping, holding their Heads upright, and resting the ends of their Bills on their ^ Breast ; they arc better Meat than Boobies or Mcn-of- Cormorants arc just like young Ducks in Shape, having «ich Feet and Bills : They are black with white Breasts, and live on small Fish which they take near the Shore, or on Worm* which they get out of the Mud at low Water. They taste very fishy, yet arc indifl^erent good Meat, they being very fat. Fishing-Hawks are like our smallest sort of Hawks in Colour and Shape, with such Bills and Talons ; They perch upon Stumps of Trees or dry Limbs that hang over tbe Water about Creeks, Rivers or against the Sea i and fcjppon Sight of any small Fish near them, they skim along Bbm over them, and snatching up the Prey with their ^Talofw, presently rise again without touching the Water with their Wings, They don't swallow the Fish whole as all other Fishing Fowls, that ever I saw do, but tear it with their Bills and eat it Piece-Meal. The Lagunes, Creeks and Rivers are plentifully stored with great Variety of Fish (viz.) Mullets, Snooks, Ten- poundcr*,' Tarporas, Cavallics, Parricootas, Gar-fish, Sting- riys, Spanish Mackril, with many others. Tcnpoundcrs arc shaped like Mullets, but are so full of ' The irapOBBiScr H EUfii tauni, m Cmnmr tm tt /tm .- ibe pajrienoM i: ■ a poisonoui. ; ihc cuvitlly is the horse mnckeiel the Sphryania barracuda, a swift, CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. very small stiflF Bones, intermixt with the Flesh, that you '^^ can hardly eat them. Parricootas are long Fish, with round Bodies like Mackril : They have very long Mouths and sharp Teeth ; they are about eight or ten Inches round, and three Foot and half long. They commonly haunt in Lagunes among Islands, or in the Sea near the Shore. They are a floating Fish, and greedily take the Hook, and will snap at Men too in the Water. We commonly take them when we are under Sail, with a Hook towing after our Stem. They are firm well-tasted Fish ; but 'tis dangerous eating them, for some Men have been poisoned with them. Divers Persons are of Opinion that these Creatures arc poysonous in some Places only, and that but at some Times of the Year. I know that in many parts of the West- Indies, some have been injured by eating them, and that at different Seasons of the Year ; therefore Seamen commonly taste the Liver before they venture any further; and if that has a biting Taste like Pepper, they esteem the Fish unwholsome, but if not, they eat it : and yet I have found even this Rule fail too. I judge the Head and the Parts near it, to be chiefly venomous. Gar-fish ^ are round, but neither so big nor long as the former; but what is more peculiar, they have long bony Snouts, like the Sword-fish, only as the Sword-fish*s Snout is flat, and indented like a Saw on each side; so on the contrary these have their Snouts like a Spear, round, smooth and sharp at the end, and about a Foot long. These are a sort of floaty or flying Fish : for they skip along a Foot or two above the Water, for the length of twenty or thirty Yards : then they just touch the Edge of the Water, and spring forward so much farther, and then touch the Water, and spring forward again, a great many times before they cease. They dart themselves with such a Force that they strike their Snout through the sides of a Cotton-Tree Canoa; and we often fear that they will strike quite through our very Bodies. They are extraordinary sweet Fish. * The common hornbeak. 172 j -MANATEE Spanish Mackril are in Shape and Colour like our Mackri), but larger : They are three Foot or three and half long, and nine or ten Inches about, and they also are generally esteemed very excellent Fish. The Ray is z flat Fish, like Skate, and I have seen three sorts of them ; viz. the Stingray, the Raspray and the Whipray. The Stingray and Raspray are much alike in shape ; but the ff>rmer has three or four strong sharp Prickles, near two Inches long, at the Root of its Tail, which are said to be very venomous, but the rest of his Skin is smooth. The Raspray has a rough knotty Skin wherewith Rasps are made : the Skins of the largest are so rough, that the Spaniards in some Places grate their Cassavy with them, which is a Root very common all over the West-Indies; and of which the Spaniards and English frequently make their Bread ; but the fairest Skins are used to cover Surgeons Instrument Cases, and other such fine Things ; but of late they are counterfeited. I have been told that in Turkey Asses Skins are stamped with unill hard Seeds, which gives them Impressions like Raspray. The Whipray differs from the other two sorts, having IBmall, but longer Tail, and ending with a Knob, shaped pe s Harpoan. Atl these three sorts are much about Foot and naif broad, There is yet another sort of these t Fah of the Whipray kind, but of a prodigious bigness ; I. three or four Yards square, and their Tails as long : be we call Sea-Devils; they are very strong Fish, and ! 5ometim« Gamcsom ; but they make an odd Figure when they leap out of the Water, tumbling over and over. Neither arc Turtle and Manatee wanting in this Lagune. Here arc M>mc Hawks-bill-Turtle, but the green Turtle is -I*! plentiful. They are of a middle size ; yet here was ■<e a va7 large one taken, as I have mentioned in my ■ oytges round the World. Here are abundance of Manatee, which arc both large ir.i sweet. Alligators are also in great numbers in all the Creeks, Kivers and Lagunes in the Bay of Campcachy; and I »73 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. think that no part of the Universe is better stock'd with '676 them. The Alligator is a Creature so well known every where, that I should not describe it, were it not to give an Account of the difference between it and the Crocodile; for they resemble each other so nearly in their shape and bulk, as also in their Natures, that they are generally mis- taken for the same Species ; only the one supposed to be the Male, the other the Female : Whether they are so or not, the World may judge by the following Observations. As to their Bulk and length, I never saw any so large as some I have heard and read of; but according to my best Judgment, though I have seen Thousands, I never met with any above sixteen or seventeen Foot long, and as thick as a large Colt. He is shaped like a Lizard, of a dark brown Colour, with a large Head and very long Jaws, with great strong Teeth, especially two of a remarkable Length, that grow out of, and at the very end of the under Jaw in the smallest part, on each side one; there are two holes in the upper Jaw to receive these, otherways he could not shut his Mouth. It has 4 short Legs and Broad Claws, with a long Tail. The Head, Back and Tail is fenced with pretty hard Scales, joyned together with a very thick tough Skin : Over its Eyes there arc two hard scaly Knobs, as big as a Mans Fist, and from the Head to the Tail, along the Ridge of his Back 'tis full of such knotty hard Scales, not like Fish-Scales, which are loose, but so united to the Skin, that it is all one with it, and can't be taken asunder, but with a sharp Knife. From the Ridge of the Back down on the Ribs towards the Belly, (which is of a dusky yellow colour like a Frog) there are many of these Scales, but not so substantial nor so thick placed as the other. These Scales are no hindrance to him in turning ; for he will turn very quick, consider- ing his length. When he goes on Land his Tail drags on the Ground. The Flesh smells very strong of Musk ; especially four Kernels or Cods that are always found about them, two of which grow in the Groin, near each Thigh ; the other 174 ■ ND ALLIGATOR DIFFER t At the Breast, one under each Fore-leg, and about the an. •bigness of a Pullets Egg; therefore when we kill an Alii- '*7^ gator, we take out these, and having dried them wear them in our Hats for a perfume. The Flesh is seldom eaten _lwt in case of Necessity, because of its strong scent, ^b Now the Crocodile hath none of these Kernels, neither Hooth his Flesh taste at all Musky, therefore esteemed better *yood. He is of a yellow Colour, neither hath he such long Teeth in his under Jaw. The Crocodile's Legs also are longer, and when it runs on Land, it bears its Tail above the Ground, and turns up the tip of it in a round Bow, vid the Knots on the Back are much thicker, higher and firmer than those of the Alligator; and differ also as to the Places where they are found. For in some Pans, as berc in the Bay of Campeachy, are abundance of Alligators, where yet I never saw nor heard of any Crocodiles. At the Isle Grand Caymanes, there are Crocodiles, but no Alligators. At Pines by Cuba, there are abundance of Crocodiles, but I cannot say there are no Alligators, tho' I never saw any there. Both Kinds are called Caymanes by the Spaniards ; therefore probably they may reckon them for the ume. And I know of no other difference, for they both lay Eggs alike, which are not distinguishable to the Eye ; They are as big as a Goose-Egg, but much longer, and good Meat ; yet the Alligators Eggs taste very Musky: They prey both alike in either Element, for they love Flesh aa well ai Fish, and will live in either fresh or salt Water. Bndc these Creatures, 1 know none that can live any where, or apon any sort of Food, like them. 'Tis reported, that they iove Dcc's-Fleah better than any other Flesh whatso- cTcr. This Ihave seen with my own Eyes, that our Dogs Wen to much afraid of them, that they would not very willingly drink at any great River or Creek where those Creatures might lurk and hide themselves, unless they wen: (through Necessity) constrained to it ; and then they would stand five or six Foot from the brink of the Creek or River, and bark a considerable time before they would AtlTcDlure nearer; and then even at the sight of their own Shadows in the Water, they would again retire to the Place '75 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. from whence they came, and bark vehemently a long time ; 1676 sQ that in the dry Season, when there was no fresh Water but in Ponds and Creeks, we used to fetch it our selves and give it our Dogs; and many times in our Hunting, when we came to a large Creek that we were to pass through, our Dogs would not follow us ; so that we often took them in our Arms, and carried them over. Besides the fore-mentioned difference between the Alli- gator and Crocodile; the latter is accounted more fierce and daring than the Alligator : Therefore when we go to the Isles of Pines or Grand Caymanes to hunt, we are often molested by them, especially in the Night. But in the Bay of Campeachy, where there are only Alligators, 1 did never know any Mischief done by them, except by accident Men run themselves into their Jaws. I remember one Instance of this Nature, which is as follows. In the very height of the dry time seven or eight Men (English and Irish) went to a place called Pies Pond, on Beer-Island, to hunt. This Pond was never dry, so that the Cattle drew hither in swarms, but after two or three days Hunting they were shy, and would not come to the Pond till Night, and then if an Army of Men had lain to oppose them, they would not have been debarred of Water. The Hunters knowing their Custom, lay still all Day, and in the Night visited this Pond, and killed as many Beefs as they could. This Trade they had driven a Week, and made great profit. At length an Irish-man going to the Pond in the Night, stumbled over an Alligator that lay in the Path : The Alligator seized him by the Knee ; at which the Man cries out. Help ! help ! His Consorts not know- ing what the matter was, ran all away from their Huts, supposing that he was fallen into the Clutches of some Spaniards, of whom they were afraid every dry Season. But poor Daniel not finding any Assistance, waited till the Beast opened his Jaw to take better hold ; because it is usual for the Alligator to do so; and then snatchM away his Knee, and slipt the But-end of his Gun in the room of it, which the Alligator griped so hard, that he pull'd it out of his Hand and so went away. The Man being near 176 a snuU Tree climh'd up out of his reach ; and then cried an. out to his Consorts to come and assist him ; who being '^7^ •till within Call, and watching to hear the Issue of the Alarm, made haste to him with Fire-brands in their Hands, and brought him away in their Arms to his Hut ; for he was in a deplorable Condition, and not able to stand on his Feet, his Knee was so torn with the Alligator's Teeth. His Gun was found the next Day ten or twelve Paces from the place where he was seized, with two large Holes made in the Bui-cnd of it, one on each side, near an Inch deep; for I saw the Gun afterwards. This spoiled their jpon for a time, they being forced to carry the Man to the hland Trisi, where their Ships were, which was six or seven Leases distant. This Irish-Man went afterwards to New-England to be curtd, in a Ship belonging to Boston, and nine or ten Months after returned to the Bay again, being recovered of bis Wound, but went limping ever after. This was all the mischief that ever I heard was done in the Bay of Campcachy, by the Creatures call'd Alligators. CHAP. Ill Logwood Mem way of Living. Their Hunting fir Beefs in Canoas, Alligators. The Author^s setUng with hogwood-Men, He is lost in Hunting. Captain Hall and his Mens disaster. The way of preserving Bullocks Hides. Two hairy Worms growing in the Author's Leg. Dangerous L^g-worms in the West-Indies, The Author strangely cured of one. A violent Storm, A Description of Beef Island : its Fruits and Animals. The Spaniards way of hocksing Cattle. Their care of preserving their Cattle. The wasteful destruction made of them by the EngSsh and French Privateers. The Author^ s narrow Escape fiom an Alligator. [HE Logwood-Cutters (as I said before) inhabit the Creeks of the East and West Ls^unes, in small Companies, building their Huts close by the Creeks sides for the benefit of the Sea- Breezes, as near the Logwood Groves as they can, removing often to be near their Business : yet when they are settled in a good open Place, they chuse rather to go half a Mile in their Canoas to work, than lose that convenience. The' they build their Huts but slightly, yet they take care to thatch them very well with Palm or Palmeto Leaves, to prevent the Rains, which are there very violent, from soaking in. For their Bedding they raise a Barbecue, or wooden Frame 3 Foot and a half above Ground on one side of the House ; and stick up four Stakes, at each comer one, to fasten their Pavilions ; out of which here is no sleeping for Moskitoes. Another Frame they raise covered with Earth for a Hearth to dress their Victuals : and a third to sit at when they eat it. During the wet Season, the Land where the Logwood 178 ^^ LOGWOOD CUTTERS ^Hcnrs is so overflowed, that they step from their Beds an. ^Kto the Water perhaps two Foot deep, and continue '*^* Btmnditig in the wet all Day, till they go to bed again; Hbnt oevcrthcless account it the best Season in the Year lor doing a good Day's Labour in. ■ Some fell the Trees, others saw and cut them Into ■ convenient Logs, and one chips oiF the Sap, and he is I commonly the principal Man ; and when a Tree is so I thick, that after it is logg'd, it remains still too great I I Burthen for one Man, we blow it up with Gun-powder. I The Lc^wood - Cutters are generally sturdy strong I Fellows, and will carry Burthens of three or four hundred I Weight ; but every Man is left to his choice to carry I what he picaseth, and commonly they agree very well I about it : For they are contented to labour very hard. I But when Ships come from Jamaica with Rum and I Sugar, they are too apt to mispcnd both their Time and ■ Money, If the Commanders of these Ships are Free, and I tre»t all that come the first Day with Punch, they will m be much resjiectcd, and every Man will pay honestly for what he drinks afterwards; but if he be niggardly, they will pay him with their worst Wood, and commonly they have a stock of such laid by for that purpose ; nay, they ■ will cheat them with hollow Wood filled with dirt in the I middle and both ends plugg'd up with a piece of the same I drove in hard, and then sawed off so neatly, that it's hard I to find out the Deceit ; but if any Man come to purchase I with Bills payable at Jamaica, they will be sure to give I Kim the best Wood. I In some places, especially in the West Creek of the I Wot Lagune, they go a Hunting every Saturday to I irovide themselves with Beef for the Week following. I The Cattle in this Country arc lar^e and fat in February, I March and April: At other times of the Year they are I fleshy, but not fat, yet sweet enough. When they have 1 t.iird a Beef, they cut it into four Quarters, and taking I nut uli the Bones, each Man makes a hole in the middle " hii Qtuuicr, Just big enough for his Head to go thro', puti it on like a Frock, and trudgeth home ; and >79 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. if he chances to tire, he cuts off some of it, and flings "^76 it away. It is a Diversion pleasant enough, though not without some danger, to hunt in a Canoa; for then the Cattle having no other feeding Places than the Sides of the Savannahs, which are somewhat higher Ground than the middle, they are forced sometimes to swim; so that we may easily come to shoot them, when they are thus in the Water. The Beast, when she is so hard pursued that she cannot escape, turns about and comes full tilt at the Canoa, and striking her Head against the Prow, drives her back twenty or thirty Paces ; then she scampers away again : But if she has received a Wound, she commonly pursues us till she is knock'd down. Our chiefest Care is to keep the Head of the Canoa towards her; for if she should strike against the Broad-side, it would endanger over-setting it, and consequently wetting our Arms and Ammunition. Besides, the Savannahs at this time swarm with Alligators, and therefore are the more dangerous on that account. These Creatures in the wet Season forsake the Rivers, and inhabit the Drowned-Savannahs to meet with Purchase, and no Flesh comes amiss to them, whether alive or dead. Their chief Subsistence then is on young Cattle, or such Carkasses as we leave behind us, which in the dry Season feed the Carrion - Crows, but now are a Prey to the Alligators. They remain here till the Water drains oflF from the Land ; and then confine themselves to the stagnant Ponds; and when they are dry, they ramble away to some Creek or River. The Alligators in this Bay are not so fierce as they are reported to be in other Places ; for I never knew them pursue any Man, although we do frequently meet them, nay, they will flee from us : and I have drank out of a Pond in the dry Time that hath been full of them, and the Water not deep enough to cover their Backs, and the compass of the Pond so small, that I could get no Water but by coming within two Yards of the Alligator's 1 80 I jtUTHOR ENTERING LOGWOOD TRADE Nose ; they lying with their Heads towards mine as I drinking, and iooklni "g. of any bit me all the while. Neither '^?i the Water by them, tho' ably should a Man happen in their way, they would ""iozc upon him. Having thus given some Description of the Country, I shall next give an Account of my living with the Logwood Men, and of several Occurrences that happened during my Stay here, Tho' 1 was a Stranger to their Employment and Manner of living, as being known but to those few only of whom we bought our Wood, in my former Voyage hither ; yet that little Acquaintance I then got, encouraged me to visit them after my second arrival here ; being in hopes to strike in to work with them. There were six in Company, who had a Hundred Tuns ready cut, logg'd and chipp'd, but not brought to the Creek-side, and they expected a Ship from New-England in a Month or two, to fetch it away. When I came hither, they were beginning to bring it to the Creek : And because the Carri^^c is the hardest Work, tbcy hired me to help them at the rate of a Ton of Wood per Month; promising me that after this Carriage was oTcr, I should strike in to work with them, for they were all obliged in Bonds to procure this lOO Tuns jointly together, but for no more. This Wood lay all in the Circumference of 5 or 600 Vards, and about 3CX3 from the Creek-side in the middle of a very thick Wood, unpassable with Burthens. The first Thing We did was to bring it all to one Place in the middle, and from thence we cut a very large Path to carry '*. to the Creek-side. We laboured hard at this Work five Days in the Week ; and on Saturdays went to the Savannahs lad killed Beeves. When we killed a Beef, if there were more than four of ^*, the Overplus went to seek fresh Game, whilst the rest L-a»*d it. I went out the first Sunday and complied very well ^ith tny Master's Orders, which was only to help drive 181 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Cattle out of the Savannahs into the Woods, where two "676 Qr three Men lay to shoot them : And having killM our Game, we marched Home with our Burthens. The next Saturday after I went with a Design to kill a Beef my self, thinking it more Honour to try my own skill in Shooting, than only to drive the Game for others to shoot at. We went now to a Place called the Upper-Savannah, going four Miles in our Canoas, and then landing, walked one Mile through the Woods, before we came into the Savannah, and marched about two Miles in it, before we came up with any Game. Here I gave my Companions the slip, and wandered so far into the Woods that I lost my self; neither could I find the way into the open Savannah, but instead of that ran directly from it, through small spots of Savannahs and Skirts of Woods. This was sometime in May, and it was between ten a Clock and one when I began to find that I was (as we called it, I suppose from the Spaniards) Morooned, or lost, and quite out of the Hearing of my Comrade's Guns. I was somewhat surprised at this ; but however, I knew I should find my way out, as soon as the Sun was a little lower. So I sat down to rest myself; resolving however to run no farther out of my way ; for the Sun being so near the Zenith, I could not distinguish how to direct my Course. Being weary and almost faint for want of Water, I was forced to have recourse to the Wild-Pines, and was by them supplied, or else I must have perished with Thirst. About three a clock I went due North, as near as I could judge, for the Savannah lay East and West, and I was on the South-side of it. At Sun-set I got into the clear open Savannah, being about two Leagues wide in most Places, but how long I know not. It is well stored with Bullocks, but by frequent hunting they grow shy, and remove farther up into the Country. Here I found my self four or five Miles to the West of the Place where I stragled from my Companions. I made homewards with all the speed I could, but being overtaken by the Night, I lay down on the Grass a good distance from the Woods, for the benefit of the Wind, to keep the Muskitoes from me, but in vain : for in less than 182 THE AUTHOR LOST IN THE WOODS «n Hours Time I was so persecuted, that though I en- ^n. deavoured to keep them off by fanning my self with '^7' Boughs ind shifting my Quarters three or four Times ; yw still they haunted me so that I could get no sleep. At Day-break I got up and directed my Course to the Creek where we landed, from which I was then about two Leagues. 1 did not see one Beast of any sort whatever in all the way ; though the Day before I saw several young Calves that could not follow their Dams, but even these were now rnc away, to my great Vexation and Disappointment, for iras very hungry. But about a Mile farther, I spied ten twelve Quams perching upon the Boughs of a Cotton- Tree- These were not shy, therefore 1 got well enough under them ; and having a single Bullet (but no shot) about mc, fired at one of them, but miss'd it, though I had before often killed them so. Then I came up with, and fired at live or six Turkeys, but with no better Success, So that I VBs forced to march forward still in the Savannah, toward the Creek ; and when I came to the Path that led to it thmt^h the Woods, I found (to my great Joy) a Hat Ruck upon a Pole : and when I came to the Creek 1 found another. These were set up by my Consorts, who were goac borne in the Evening, as Signals that they would come and fetch mc. Therefore 1 sat down and waited for for although I had not then above three Leagues by Water, yet it would have been very difficult, if posnble for me to have got thither over Land, by of those vast unpassable Thickets abounding every along the Creek side; wherein I have known some puzzled for two or three Days, and have not advanced half Mile, though they laboured extreamly every Day. leitber was I disappointed of my hopes ; for within half ■B Hour after my Arrival at the Creek, my Consorts came, bringing every Man his Bottle of Water, and his Gun. both to hunt for Game, and to give me notice by firing, that I might hear them ; for 1 have known several Men tosi in like manner, and never heard of afterwards. Such an Accident bcfel one Captain Hall of Ncw- Ef^iand, who came hither in a Boston Ship, to take in 183 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Logwood, and was fraighted by two Scotchmen, and one 1676 ^j. ^ Cane, an Irish-man who designing to go with Goods from Jamaica to New-England ; for that reason when his Logwood was aboard, tarried at Trist with the Ship, and hunted once in two or three Days for Beef to lengthen out his Salt Provision. One Morning the Captain designing to hunt, took five of his Men, with his Mate, as also his Merchant Mr. Cane along with him. They landed at the East-end of the Island, which is low Mangrove-Land ; the Savannah is a considerable distance from the Sea, and therefore troublesome to get to it. However, unless they would row four or five Leagues farther, they could not find a more convenient place; beside, they doubted not of Mr. Cane's skill to conduct them. After they had followed him a Mile or two into the Woods, the Captain seeing him to make a Halt (as being in some doubt) to consider of the way, told him in derision, that he was but a sorry Woodsman, and that he would swing him but twice round, and he should not guess the way out again ; and saying no more to him went forwards, and bid his Seamen follow him, which they did accordingly. Mr. Cane, after he had recollected himself, struck off another way, and desired them to go with him : But instead of that, they were all for following the Captain. In a short time Mr. Cane got out of the Woods into the Savannah, and there killed a good fat Cow, and quartering it, made it fit for Carriage, supposing the Captain and Crew would soon be with him. But after waiting three or four Hours, and firing his Gun several Times, without hearing any Answer, took up his Burden and returned towards the Sea-side ; and upon giving a signal a Boat came and brought him aboard. In the mean Time the Captain and his Men after four or five Hours ranging the Woods, began to grow tired, and then his Mate happily trusting more to his own Judgment, left him and the four Seamen, and about four or five a Clock, being almost spent with Thirst, got out of the Woods to the Sea-shore, and as weak as he was, fired his Gun for the Boat to fetch him, which was immediately done. 184 CAPTAIN HALL LOST When he came aboard he gave an Account whereabout, Biid in what a Condition he left the Captain and his Men ; ' but it being then too late to seek him, the next Morning Tcry early Mr. Cane and two Seamen taking Directions frofli the Mate (who was so fatigued that he could not Stir) where he had left the Captain, went ashore, and at length came within call of him, and at last found him laid down in a Thicket, having just sense to call out sometimes, •It not Strength enough to stand ; so they were forced to f him to the Sea-side. When they had a little refreshed kim with Bnndy and Water, he told them how his ompany had fainted for Thirst, and drop'd down one Ftcr another, though he still encouraged them to be licarful and rest themselves a while, till he got some uppties of Water for them ; that they were very patient, 1 that two of his Men held out till five a Clock in the &ftemoon. and then they fainted also ; but he himself pro- ■dcd in quest of his way till Night; and then fell down 1 the place where they then found him. The two Seamen carried the Captain aboard, while ytr. Cane Searched about for the rest, but to no purpose; he returned without them, and could never hear of I aiicnrards. ^^ This was a warning to me never to straggle from my ^omons in our Hunting, But to proceed. When my Month's Service was up, in which time we ITDagbc down all the Wood to the Creek-side, I was Jitly pay'd my Tun of Logwood ; with which, and more that I borrowed, I bought a little Provision, tsd ma afterwards entertained as a Companion at Work with some of my former Masters; for they presently broke ■p Consortship, Jetting the Wood lye till either Mr. West : to fetch it, according to his Contract, or else till they ikould otherwise dispose of it. Some of them immediately to Bccf-IsUnd to kill Bullocks for their Hides, ■Inch they preserve by pegging them out very tite on the Ground. First they turn the fleshy-side, and after the ■ upward*, letting them lye so till they are very dry. TlttrtT-two ftrong Pegs as big as a Man's Arm, arc re- 185 4 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. quired to stretch the Hide as it ought to be. Whey they "^6 are dry they fold them in the middle from Head to Tail, with the Hair outward ; and then hang them cross a strong Pole, so high that the ends may not touch the Ground, 40 or 50 one upon another, and once in three Weeks or a Month they beat them with great Sticks, to strike off the Worms that breed in the Hair, and eat it off, which spoils the Hide. When they are to be ship'd off, they soak them in salt Water to kill the remaining Worms ; and while they are yet wet they fold them in four folds, and afterwards spread them abroad again to dry. When they are fully dry, they fold them up again, and so send them aboard. I was yet a Stranger to this Work, there- fore remained with three of the old Crew to cut more Logwood. My Consorts were all three Scotch-Men ; one of them named Price Morrice had lived there some Years, and was Master of a pretty large Periago; for without some sort of Boat, here is no stirring from one place to another. The other two were young Men that had been bred Merchants, viz. Mr. Duncan Campbell ; and Mr. George ^These two not liking either the Place or Employment, waited an Opportunity of going away by the first Ship that came hither to take in Logwood. Accordingly not long after the above-mentioned Capt. Hall of Boston, came hither on that design, and was fraighted by them with 40 Tun. It was agreed that George should stay behind to cut Logwood ; but Campbell should go to New-England to sell this Cargo, and bring back Flour, and such other Commodities that were proper to purchase Hides and Logwood in the Bay. This retarded our Business; for I did not find Price Morrice very intent at Work : for 'tis like he thought he had Logwood enough. And I have particularly observed there, and in other Places, that such as had been well-bred, were generally most careful to improve their Time, and would be very industrious and frugal, when there was any probability of considerable Gain. But on the contrary, such as had been inur*d to hard Labour, and got their Living by the sweat of their Brows, when they came to a Plenty, would extravagantly 186 '^ STRANGE LEG WORMS ^ squander away their Time and Money in Drinking and ak. I nuking a Bluster. i67*l To be short, I kept to my Work by my self, till I was hindered by a hard, red, and angry Swelling like a Boyl, in ' my right Leg ; so painful that I was scarce able to stand on it : but I was directed to roast and apply the Roots of White Lillies (of which here is great plenty growing by the Creek-sides) to draw it to a Head. This I did three or J four Days, without any Benefit. At last I perceived two I white Specks in the middle of the Boil ; and squeezing it, I two small white Worms spurted out : I took them both I up in my Hand, and perceived each of them to be invested I with three Rows of black, short, stiff Hair, running clear I round them ; one Row near each end ; the other in the I middle; each Row distinct from other; and all very regular I and uniform. The Worms were about the Bigness of a I Hen's Quill, and about three fourths of an Inch long. I I never saw Worms of this sort breed in any Man's I Flesh. Indeed Guinea Worms ' are very frequent in some J Places of the West-Indies, especially at Curasao; They I breed i» well in Whites as Negroes : And because that I Island was formerly a Magazin of Negroes, while the I Dutch drove that Trade with the Spaniards, and the I Negroes were most subject to them ; 'twas therefore be- I licked that other People took them by Infection from I ■Kem. I rather judge that they are generated by drinking I ad Water; and 'tis as likely that the Water of the other I U!ar»d of Aruba and Bonairy may produce the same I KffccM ; for many of those that went with me from thence I :c Virginia (mentioned in my former Volume) were troubled I with them after our Arrival there: particularly I my self I had one broke out in my Ancle, after I had been there five ' or six Months. These Worms are no bigger than a large brown Thread, J L hot (as I have heard) five or six Yards long, and if it J I brcaki in drawing out, that part which remains in the Flesh I ^^liU putrific, and be very painful, and indanger the Patient's I ^^■V^^he puoM-wntm {Ff/aria medinensh) is a whitish ihiefldiikc patasitF, I ^^BA*k thniu tB iMinian ikin, pardcularly io ihc skin of the feet .ind ankles. I ■ "7 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Life ; or at least the use of that limb : and I have known '^"^ some that have been scarified and cut strangely, to take out the Worm. I was in great Torment before it came out: my Leg and Ancle swelFd and lookM very red and angry ; and I kept a Plaister to it to bring it to a Head. At last drawing off my Plaister out came about three Inches of the Worm ; and my Pain abated presently. Till then I was ignorant of my Malady; and the Gentlewoman, at whose House I was, took it for a Xcrve ; but I knew well enough what it was, and presently rollM it up on a small Stick. After that I opened it every Morning and Evening, and strained it out gently, about two Inches at a time, not without some pain, till at length I had got out about two Foot. Riding with one Mr. Richardson, who was going to a Negro to have his Horse cured of a galfd Back, I asked the Negro if he could undertake my Leg : which he did very readily ; and in the mean time I observed his Method in curing the Horse; which was this. First he strok'd the sore Place, then applying to it a little rough Powder, which looked like Tobacco-Leaves dryed and crumbled small, and mumbling some Words to himself, he blew upon the part three times, and waving his Hands as often over it, said, it would be well speedily. His Fee for the Cure was a white Cock. Then coming to me, and looking on the Worm in my Ancle, he promised to cure it in three Days, demanding also a white Cock for his Pains, and using exactly the same Method with me, as he did with the Horse. He bad me not open it in three Days ; but I did not stay so long ; for the next Morning the Cloath being rubb'd ofF, I unbound it, and found the Worm broken off, and the hole quite healed up. I was afraid the remaining Part would have given some Trouble, but have not felt any Pain there from that Day to this. To return. I told you how I was interrupted in following my Work, by the Worm's breeding in my Leg. And to compleat my Misfortune, presently after we hii the most violent Storm for above 24 Hours, that ever was 188 i Hnown in these Pans. An Account of which I shall give ^borc particularly in my Discourse of Winds, and shall now ' only mention some Passages. I have already said, we were four of us in Company at this Place cutting Logwood : and by this Storm were re- duced to great Inconveniences; for while that [asted we could dress no Victuals, nor even now it was over, unless we had done it in the Canoa ; for the highest Land near us was almost three Foot under Water: besides our Provision too was most of it spoiled, except the Beef and Pork, which was but little the worse. We had a good Canoa large enough to carry us all ; and seeing it in vain to stay here any longer, we all em- bvked and rowed away to One-Bush-Key, about four Leagues from our Huts. There were four Ships riding here, when the Storm began : but at our Arrival we found only ofic, and hoped to have got some Refreshment from it, but found very cold Entertainment : For we could oetthcr get Bread nor Punch, nor so much as a Dram of Rum, though we offered them Money for it. The Reason was, they were already over-charged with such as being distrcsaed by the Storm, had been forced to take Sanctuary with thcni. Seeing we could not be supplied here, we asked which way the other three Ships were driven ? they toU us that Captain Prout of New-England was driven towards Trist, and 'twas probable he was carried out to Sea, unless he struck on a Sand, called the Middle-Ground ; fJut Captain Skinner of New-England was driven towards Betf-Island ; and Captain Chandler of London, drove jway towards Man-of-War Lagune. Beef-Island lies North from Onc-Bush-Key ; but the I otkcr two Places lie a little on each side : One to the East ; like other to the West, So away we went for Beef-Island : l»d coming within * League of it, we saw a Flag in the "* ' , made fast to a Pole, and placed on the top of a h Tree. And coming stiti nearer, we at last saw a Ship I WcKxls, about 200 Yards from the Sea. We rowed ~ [iDwardt her; and when we came to the Woods , pretty clear Passage made by the Ship thro" = - iSa CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Woods, the Trees being all broke down ; and about *^76 three Foot Water Home to the Ship. We rowed in with our Canoa, and went aboard, and were kindly entertained by the Seamen : but the Captain was gone aboard Captain Prout, who stuck fast on the middle Ground before-men- tioned. Captain Prout^s Ship was afterwards got oflF again ; but the Stumps of the Trees ran clear through the bottom of Captain Skinners, therefore there was no hope of saving her. Here we got Victuals and Punch, and stayed about two Hours, in which Time the Captain came aboard and invited us to stay all Night. But hearing some Guns fired in Man-of-War Lagune, we concluded that Captain Chandler was there, and wanted Assistance. Therefore we presently rowed away thither, for we could do no Service here ; and before Night found him also stuck fast on a Point of Sand. The Head of his Ketch was dry, and at the Stern there was above four Foot Water. Our coming was very seasonable to Captain Chandler, with whom we stayed two Days : in which Time we got out all his Goods, carried off his Anchor, &c. and so not being able as yet to do him more Service, we left him for the present, and went away to hunt at Beef-Island. At Trist were four Vessels riding before this Storm ; one of them was driven off to Sea, and never heard of afterwards. Another was cast dry upon the shore, where she lay and was never got off again : But the third rode it out. Another was riding without the Bar of Trist, and she put to Sea, and got to New-England ; but much shattered. About three Days before this Storm began, a small Vessel, commanded by Captain Vally, went hence, bound to Jamaica. This Vessel was given for lost by all the Logwood-Cutters; but about four Months after she returned thither again ; and the Captain said he felt nothing of the Storm, but when he was about 30 Leagues to Wind- ward of Trist, he had a fresh Summasenta Wind that carried him as high as Cape Condecedo ; but all the Time he saw very black Clouds to the Westward. Beef-Island is about seven Leagues long, and three or four broad. It lies in length East and West. The East- 190 i BEEF ISLANE looks totrsrds the IsUnd Trist ; and is low drowned am. knd : and near the Sea produceth nothing but white and '^7*-- black Mangrove-Trees, The North-side lies open to the Main Sea, running straight from East to West. The Ea&tcTinost part for about three Leagues from Trist is Low and Mangrovy ; at the end of which there is a small salt creek, deep enough at high Water for Boats to pus. From this Creek to the West-end, is four Leagues all •andy Bay, closed on the back-side with a low Sand-bank, abounding with thick prickly Bushes, like a White-thorn ; bearing a whitish hard shell-Fruit, as big as a Sloe, much like a Gillabash. The West-end is washed with the River St. Peter St. Paul.' This end is over-grown with red MangTuvcs. About three Leagues up from the Mouth of this River shoots forth a small Branch, running to the Eastward, and dividing Becf-lsland from the Main on the Stnith, and afterwards makes a great Lake of fresh Water, caJlcd Fresh-Water Lagunc. This afterwards falls into a ult Lake, called Man-of-War Lagune ; which empties it *c!f into I^guna Tcrmina, about two Leagues from the Souih-East Point of the Island. The inside or middle of this Island is a Savannah, bordered all round with Trees, most Mangrovy ; either black, white or red, with some Logwood. The South-side, between the Savannahs and the Man- grorcs ts very rich. Some of this Land lyes in Ridges higher than the Savannahs. TTic Savannahs produce plenty of long Grass, and the Kidgcs curious high flourishing Trees of divers sorts. The Fruits of this Island are Penguins, both red and ^^kUow, Guavers, Sapadilloes, Limes, Oranges, &c. These ^^■t bat lately planted here by a Coluny of Indians ; who ^^polfcd from the Spaniards and settled here. ^^ It is no new Thing for the Indians m these woody fVts of Amcrita, to fly away whole Towns at once, and Kuie themselves in the unfrequented Woods to enjoy their CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Freedom ; and if they are accidentally discovered, they will J676 remove again ; which they easily do ; their Houshold- Goods being little else but their Cotton Hammocks, and their Callabashes. They build every Man his own House, and tye up their Hammocks between two Trees ; wherein they sleep till their Houses are made. The Woods afford them some Subsistence, as Pecary and Warree, but they that are thus stroling (or morooning, as the Spaniards call it) have Plantain- Walks that no Man knows but themselves, and from thence they have their Food, till they have raised Plantation Provision near their new built Town. They clear no more Ground than what they actually employ for their Subsistence. They make no Paths: but when they go far from Home, they break now and then a Bough, letting it hang down, which serves as a Mark to guide them in their return. If they happen to be discovered by other Indians, inhabiting still among the Spaniards, or do but mistrust it, they immediately shift their Quarters to another Place. This large Country affording them good fat Land enough, and very Woody, and therefore a proper Sanctuary for them. It was some of these fugitive Indians that came to live at Beef-Island ; where, besides gaining their Freedom from the Spaniards, they might see their Friends and Acquaintance, that had been taken some Time before by the Privateers, and sold to the Logwood-Cutters, with whom some of the Women lived still, tho' others of them had been conducted by them to their own Habita- tions. It was these Women after their return made known the kind Entertainment that they met with from the English ; and perswaded their Friends to leave their Dwellings near the Spaniards, and settle on this Island ; and they had been here almost a Year before they were discovered by the English : and even then were accidentally found out by the Hunters, as they followed their Game. They were not very shy all the time I lived there ; but I know that upon the least disgust they would have been gone. The Animals of this Island are. Squashes in abundance, 192 HOCKSING CATTLE Porcupines, Guanoes, Possomes, Pccary, Deer, Horses, and Hom-Caitle. ' Thii Island docs properly belong to John d' Acosta a Spaniard of Campcachy Town, who possessed it when the English ftrst came hither to cut Logwood. His Habitation was then at the Town of Campeachy ; but in the dry Season he used to come hither in a Bark, with six or seven Servants, and spend two or three Months in hocksing and killing Cattle, only for their Hides and Tallow. The English Logwood-Cutters happened once to come httber, whilst John d' Acosta was there ; and he hearing ibeir Guns, made towards them, and desired them to forbear firing ; because it would make the Cattle wild ; but told them that any Time when they wanted Beef, if they sent to him he would hox as many as they pleased, and bring the Meat to their Canoas. The English thank- fully accepted his Offer ; and did never after shoot his Cattle ; but sent to him when they wanted ; and he 'according to his Promise) supplied them. This created ■ im »o much Friendship, that they intended when they 'cfumcd to Jartuica to bring him a Present, and Goods ■ io to Trade with him; which would have been very \Jvantagious to both Parties: but some of his Servants . .quAinieii the Townsmen of it, at his return to Campeachy. \nd they being Jealous of the English, and envying him, impUined to the Govemour ; who presently cast him ^lo Prison, where he remained many Years : This happened ibout the Year 71 or 72. Thus the Project of Trading I the English miscarried here, and John d* Acosta was kfined to relinquish his Kighi of this pleasant and prohtable 'lod, leaving it wholly to the English; for neither he riny other Spaniard ever came hither afterward to hocks This way of Hocksing Bullocks seems peculiar to the "di; especially to those that live hereabouts, who < »tjy dextrous at it. For this Reason some of them tooQSTmtly employed in it all the Year ; and so become Tdpert. The Hockser is mounted on a good Horse, '93 !» CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. bred up to the Sport ; who knows so well when to advance 1676 or retreat upon Occasion, that the Rider has no trouble to manage him. His Arms is a Hocksing Iron, which is made in the Shape of a Half-Moon, and from one G)mcr to the other is about six or seven Inches ; with a very sharp Edge. This Iron is fastned by a Socket to a Pole about fourteen or fifteen Foot long. When the Hockser is mounted, he lays the Pole over the Head of his Horse, with the Iron forward, and then rides after his Game ; and having overtaken it, strikes his Iron just above the Hock, and hamstrings it. The Horse presently wheels oflF to the left ; for the wounded Beast makes at him presently with all his Force ; but he scampers away a good Distance before he comes about again. If the Hamstring is not quite cut asunder with the Stroke, yet the Bullock by continual springing out his Leg, certainly breaks it: and then can go but on three Legs, yet still limps forward to be revenged on his Enemy. Then the Hockser rides up softly to him and strikes his Iron into the Knee of one of his fore-Legs ; and then he immediately tumbles down. He gets off his Horse, and taking a sharp-pointed strong Knife, strikes it into his Pole, a little behind the Horns, so dextrously that at one Blow he cuts the String of hb Neck ; and down falls his Head. This they call Poling. Then the Hockser immediately mounts, and rides after more Game, leaving the other to the Skinners, who arc at hand, and ready to take off his Hide. The right Ear of the Hocksing-Horse by the Weight of the Pole laid constantly over it when on Duty, hangs down always, by which you may know it from other Horses. The Spaniards pick and chuse only the Bulls and old Cows, and leave the young Cattle to breed; by which means they always preserve their Stock entire. On the contrary, the English and French kill without Distinction; yea, the Young rather than the Old ; without r^ard of keeping up their Stock. Jamaica is a remarkable Instance of this our Folly in this Particular. For when it was 194 wu EST INDIES STOCKED WITH CATTLE :n by the English, the Savannahs were well stockt with xsM [tie ; but were soon all destroyed by our Soldiers, '' who suffered great Hardships afterwards for it : and it w»s never siock'd again till Sir Thomas Linch ^ was cmour. He sent to Cuba for a Supply of Cattle, ach arc now grown very plentiful, because every Man iws his own proper Goods. Whereas before, when there was no Property, each Man destroyed as fast as he could. The French (I think) are greater Destroyers than the English. Had it not been for the great care of the Spaniards in stocking the West-Indies with Hogs and Bullocks, the Privateers must have starved. But now the Main, as well as the Island, is plentifully provided; particularly the Bay of Campcachy, the Islands of Cuba, Pines, His- paniob, Portarica, &c. Where, besides wild Hogs, there are Abundance of Crawls or Hog-farms ; in some of which, I have heard, there are no less than 1500. This was the main Sutnlstence of the Privateers. But to return again to Beef-Island. Our English Hunters have much lessened the numbers of the Cattle there And those that are left, by constant shooting now arc grown so wild and desperate, that it is dangerous for a sngle Man to 6re at them, or to venture through the Si»aimah5. For the old Bulls that have been formerly ihol, will make at him : and they will all draw up in Battalia 10 defend themselves upon our Approach ; the r>Id Bulls in the Front ; behind them the Cows, in the ■»me manner ; and behind them the young Cattle. And 'f wc urive to wheel about to get in the Rcer, the Bulls vitl ccruinly face about that way, and still present a Front to us. Therefore We seldom strive to shoot any Out of t great Herd ; but walk about in the Woods, close the Savannah ; and there we light of our Game. The makes directly at the Hunter, if it be desperately ' &i Tbocnu Lyadi, "a pretiy undersunclinf; gentleman, and very '"* — • bora in Keni ««« 1630. He was Lieutenant-Governor of 1670- iftTt, »n<l iJiraiii 'mm i(>8i till 1684, in which year he d itM nlaiid during bi* fini governorship. '95 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. wounded (as I have experienced my self) but if but 1676 slightly, they commonly run away. The old Hunters tell us, that a Cow is more dangerous of the two ; because they say, she runs at her Enemy with her Eyes open; but the Bull shuts his, so that you may easily avoid him. But this I cannot affirm upon my own Knowledge, and rather doubt the Truth of it; for I knew one shrewdly gor'd by a Bull. He was a Consort with Mr. Baker, in the West Lagune; where having tir'd themselves with cutting of Logwood, they took an Occasion to go in their Canoa to Beer-Island, to refresh themselves there a Fort- night or three Weeks ; because here were several sorts of Fruits, and Plenty of Cabbage to eat with their fresh Beef, which they could not fail to meet with. They came to a Place call'd the Salt-Creek ; and there built them a Hut. About four a Clock, while Mr. Baker lay down to sleep, his Consort march'd out into the Savannah, about a Mile from their Huts ; and there coming within Shot of a Bull, wounded him desperately ; but yet the Bull had still so much Strength left as to pursue and overtake his Ad- versary, trampling on him ; and goring his Thigh, so that he was not able to rise. The Bull by this Time was spent, and fell down dead by him : And there the Man had also perished, if Mr. Baker had not come the next morning to seek him ; who finding him by the dead Beast, took him on his Back, and lugg*d him home to their Hut. The next Day he put him in his Canoa, and delivered him aboard a Ship, into the Hands of a Surgeon, who cured him in a little time. I told you we left Capt. Chandler, with a Design of going to Beef-Island, to spend some time in Hunting at Pies Pond, before mentioned. But before we came thither we went ashore to kill a Beef for Supper; where I was surprized with an odd Accident. Passing through a small Savannah, about two or three Foot deep, we smelt a strong Scent of an Alligator ; and presently after I stumbled over one, and fell down immediately. I cry*d out for Help; but my Consorts, instead of assisting me, ran away towards the Wood. I had no sooner got up to follow them, but I 196 i AN ESCAPE FROM AN ALLIGATOR stumbled on him a second time; and a third time also; an. expecting still when I fell down to be devoured. Yet ^^76 at last I got out safe ; but so frighted that I never cared for going through the Water again as long as I was in the Bay. 197 CHAP. IV The River St, Peter St. Paul, The Mountain-Cow and Hippopotamus, Tobasco Island, Guavers, Tobasco River, Manatee, Villa de Mosa, Estapo, Halapo, Tacatalpo de Sierra, Small Bees, Indians, Tartillos, Posole, Cotton Garments, Early Marriages, Towns, Festivals, Shape and Features, HE River St. Peter St. Paul ^ springs from the high Mountains of Chiapo, about 20 Leagues within the Country, which are so called from a City not far distant. Its first Course is Easterly for a considerable Length, till it meets with Mountains on that Side : then it turns short about Northward, till within twelve Leagues of the Sea. And lastly, it divides its self into two Branches. The Western Branch falls into the River Tobasco ; the other keeps its Course till within four Leagues of the Sea ; then divides it self again. The Eastermost of these Branches separates Beef-Island from the Main ; and falls into Man-of-War-Lagunc, as is before related. The other keeps its Course and Name till it falls into the Sea, between Beef-Island and Tobasco-Island ; where it is no broader than the Thames at Gravesend. There is a Bar at its Entrance, but of what Depth I know not; over which small Vessels may pass well enough by the Benefit of the Tide. It is both deeper and broader after you are in ; for there it is fifteen or sixteen Foot Water, and very good Riding. By Report of the Privateers who have been up this River, it is very broad before it parts; and beyond that farther in the Country, has divers large Indian Towns built on its Banks: the chief of which is called Summasenta ; ' and many large ^ San Pedro. ' Usumasinta. 198 1 1 V THE MOUNTAIN COW ^Bicao and Plantain-walks: the Soil on each Side being . wry fruitful. The unmanur'd Land is overgrown with lofty ' Trees of many sorts, especially the Cotton or Cabbage; of the latter there are whole Groves ; and in some Places (especially a little way from the River's side) great Savannahs full of Bullocks, Horses, and other Animals; amongst which the Mountain Cow ' (called by the Spaniards Ante) is most remarkable. This Beast is as big as a Bullock of two Years old. It is shaped like a Cow in Body ; but her Head much bigger. Her Nose is shon, and the Head more compact and round. She has no Horns. Her Eyes are round, full, and of a prodigious Size. She has great Lips, but not so thick as ^Hk Cows Ijps. Her Ears are in Proportion to the Head, ^^Bthcr broader than those of the Common Cow. Her ^^keck is thick and short. Her Legs also shorter than ^Hdinary. She has a pretty long Tail ; thin of Hairs, and ^^b Bob at the end. She has coarse thin Hair all over her ^^bdy. Her Hide is near two Inches thick. Her Flesh is red ; the Grain of it very fine. The Fat is white, and altogether jt is sweet wholsomc Meat. One of them will weigh 5 or 600 Weight. This Creature is always found in the Woods near some lar^e River; and feeds on a sort of long thin Grass, or Mow, which grows plentifully on the Banks of Rivers ; but never feeds in Savannahs, or Pastures of good Grass, as all other Bullocks do. When her Belly is full, she lies down to sleep by the Brink of the River ; and at the least Noise slips into the Water: where sinking down to the Bottom, ■ho' very deep, she walks as on dry Ground. She cannot run fast, therefore never rambles far from the River ; for there she always takes Sanctuary, In aise of danger. There ;-. DO shooting of her. but when she is asleep. They are found, besides this Place, in the Rivers in the • The tapir. Pn^bly ihc mountain tapir, Tapims RouUni ; perhaps T. RairdL " M. W.', in)ib**FainJruirdescnplii>riofthc Mnsqucio Kingdom," d «ja ih«i it u bcimc "uf ihc bigncis of an EngUth calf of n year old, having t ^wm like Kit efcptuint. and nnt homed ; ihey hide uU day ia muddy . t—twi 10 acjipe ibe tiovn, and in the ni|[h( swim across the river to get inod : ibcr arc vetT v™ mral, bui scarce or hard to find." _ '99 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Bay of Honduras ; and on all the Main from thence as 1676 i^jgh as the River of Darien. Several of my Consorts have kiird them there, and knew their Track, which I my self saw in the Isthmus of Darien ; but should not have known it, but as I was told by them. For I never did see one, nor the Track of any but once. The Impression in the Sand, seemed much like the Track of a Cow, but I was well assured that none of our common Cows could live in that Place, neither are there any near it by many Miles. My Consorts then gave me this Relation, and since I have had the same from other English-men as well as Spaniards. Having shewed the foregoing Description to a Person of Honour, he was pleased to send it to a learned Friend in Holland ; from whom he received this answer. Sir, THE Account I have of this Paper from the English Minister at Leyden is this. The De- scription of your Sea-Cow, agrees with the Hippo- potamus kept here so exactly, that I take them to be Creatures of the same kind. Only this here at Leyden is bigger than any Ox. For the Eyes, Ears and Hair, nothing can be said, seeing this Skin wants all these. The Teeth are worth noticing, which are very large, and firm, and fine as any Ivory. I have spoke with a very Intelligent Person, Kinsman to the Burgomaster of Leyden, who having had that Hippo- potamus (as they call it) presented to him, made a Present thereof to the University ; who having viewed that Skin very well, saith. It's much bigger than you make yours, and cannot weigh less than one Thousand Weight. Let me add of mine own, that perhaps they are greater, about the Cape of Good Hope; whence that of Leyden came. And seeing there are no horns, perhaps it may as well be called a River-Horse as a River-Cow : But for that, j it must bear the Denomination given it by the People of the Place where they are ; which may be different in Africa and America. 200 I DIFFERS FROM THE SEA-HORSE But what he says of her sinking to the Bottom in deep Rivers, and walking there, if he adds, what 1 think he supposes, that she rises again, and comes on the Land ; I much question. For that such a huge Body should raise |«t self up again (though 1 know Whales and great Fishes and do) transcends the Faith of I. H. r I readily acknowledge, there is some resemblance between this Mountain^Cow of America, and the African Hippo- potamus ; but yet am of Opinion that they must needs be of s different Species; for the Mountain-Cow is never known to swim out to Sea, nor to be found near it ; and is not above half so big, and has no long Teeth. But for further Satisfaction, 1 have here inserted two Accounts of the Africin Hippopotamus, as they were sent ; the one to the Honourable Person before-mentioned, from Captain Co\"ent of Porbury, near Bristol, a Gentleman of great Ability and Experience, as well as known Integrity, who used to trade to Angola : The other to my self, from my worthy Friend Captain Rogers,' as he has seen them in the River Natal, in the Latitude of thirty, on the East side of the Cape of Good Hope. The Sea-Horse's Head, Ears and Nostrils are like our Hones; with a short Tail and Legs. And his Footsteps tn the Sand like a Horse's ; but the Body above twice as big. He grazes on the Shore, and dungs like a Horse. Is of a dirk-brown, but glistering in the Water. His Pace is but slow on the Shore; in the Water more swift. He there ■feeds on small Fish and what he can get ; and will go down ^■b the Bottom in three Fathom Water. For I havewatch'd ^Hfim ; and he hath staid above half an Hour before he arose. He is very mischievous to white Men. I have known him "pen his Mouth and set one Tooth on the Gunnel of a Bost, and another on the second Strake from the Keel (which was more than four Foot distant) and there bit a Hole through the Plank, and sunk the Boat ; and after he iad done, he went away shaking his Ears. His Strength is Rosen : peihao* Capinin Woodcs-Ro^rs, nftcrwRrda the n' ol ih« Ouit aitd hu^Mtii in the voyage to Die South Seoi. 201 CAPTAIN DAMPIER*S VOYAGES AN. incredibly great ; for I have seen him in the Wash of the 1676 Shore, when the Sea has tossed in a Dutch-man*s Boat, with fourteen Hogsheads of Water in her, upon the said Beast ; and left it dry on his Back ; and another Sea came and fetched the Boat off, and the Beast was not hurt, as far as I could perceive. How his Teeth grow in his Mouth I could not see ; only that they were round like a Bow, and about sixteen Inches long ; and in the biggest part more than six Inches about. We made several Shot at him ; but to no Purpose, for they would glance from him as from a Wall. The Natives call him a Kittimpungo, and say he is Fetisso, which is a kind of a God ; for nothing, they say, can kill him : And if they should do to him, as the white Men do, he would soon destroy their Canoas and Fishing- Nets. Their Custom is when he comes near their Canoas, to throw him Fish ; and then he passeth away, and will not meddle with their Fishing-Craft. He doth most Mischief when he can stand on the Ground ; but when afloat, hath only Power to bite. As our Boat once lay near the Shore, I saw him go under her, and with his Back lift her out of the Water ; and overset her with six Men aboard, but, as it happened, did them no harm. Whilst we lay in the Road we had three of them, which did trouble this Bay every Full and Change, and two or three Days after : the Natives say, they go together, two Males and one Female. Their Noise is much like the Bellowing of a large Calf. This past Remark was made of a Sea-Horse at Loango, in the Year 1695. Captain R o o e r' s Letter. Sir, THE Hippopotamus or Sea-Horse, lives as well on the Land as in the Sea or in the Rivers. It b shaped much like an Ox, but bigger ; weighing 1500 or, 1600 Pound. This Creature is very full-bodied, and covered with Hair of a Mouse-Colour; thick, short and of a very beautiful Sleekness, when he first comes out of the Water. The Head is flattish on the Topi 202 SEA-HORSE : hu no Horns: but large Lips, a wide Mouth, and ak J Teeth ; four of which are longer than the rest, (viz.) ''"* two in the upper Jaw; one on each side, and two more in the under : These last are four or five Inches long ; the other two are shorter. It has large broad Ears ; great goggle Eyes; and is very quick-sighted. It has a thick Neck, and Strong Legs, but weak Footlocks. The Hoofs of his Kcet arc Cloven in the Middle : And it has two itiaU Hoofs above the Footlock, which bending to the Ground when it goes, make an Impression on the Sand like four CIaw5. His Tail is short and tapering like a Swines; without any Bob at the end. This Beast is commonly fat and very good Meat. It grateth ashore in wet swampy Ground near Rivers or Ponds ; but retires to the Water, if pursued. When they arc in the Water, they will sink down to the Bottom ; and there walk as on dry Ground. They will run almost as fast as a man ; but if chased hard, ■■\cy will turn about and look very fierce, like a Boar; and r.ght if put to it. The Natives of the Country, have no ~¥ar^ with these Creatures ; but we had many Conflicts ith them, both on Shore and in the Rivers : and though r commonly got the better by killing some, and routing i rest ; yet in the Water we durst not molest them, after r Bout ; which had like to have proved fatal to 3 Men t went in a small Canoa to kill a single Sea-Horsc, in a rver where was 8 or 10 Foot Water. The Horse, accord- ing to his Custom, was marching in the bottom of the Rircr; and being spied by these Men, they wounded him with a long Ijincc; which so enraged the Beast, that he fn»c up immediately, and giving a fierce look he opened hi» Jawi and bit a great piece of the Gunnal or upper edge ■^ the Canna, and was like to over-set it, but presently sunk iown again to the bottom : and the Men made away as _ t'»t as they could, for fear he should come again. The West branch of the River St. Peter St. Paul, after it hu run 8 or 9 Leagues N. W. loscth it self in Tobasco ' about 4 Leagues from the Sea, and so makes the i Tobasco, which is 1 1 Leagues long, and 4 Broad at 203 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the Nonh-cnd : for from the River St. Peter St, Paul, to '^^ the Mouth of Tobasco River, is accounted 4 Leagues ; and the Shore lies East and West. The first League on the East is Mangrove Land, with some sandy Bay, where Turtle come ashore to lay their Eggs. The West-part of it is sandy Bay quite to the River Tobasco. But because here is constantly a great Sea, you have no good Landing till within the River. The N. W. part of it is full of Guaver Trees, of the greatest variety, and their Fruit the largest and best tasted I have met with ; and 'tis really a very delicious Place. There are also some Coco-Plums and Grapes, but not many. The Savannahs here are naturally fenced with Groves of Guavers, and produce good Grass for Pasture, and are pretty well stocked with fat Bullocks : and I do believe it is from their eating the Guaver Fruit that these Trees are so thick. For this Fruit is full of small Seeds; which being swallowed whole by the Cattle, are voided whole by them again; and then taking root in their Dung, spring up abundantly. Here are also Deer in great numbers; these we con- stantly find feeding in the Savannahs Mornings and Even- ings. And I remember an unlucky Accident whilst I was there. Two or three Men went out one Evening purposely to hunt ; when they were in the spots of Savannahs, they separated to find their Game, and at last it so happened, that one of them fired at a Deer and killed it, and while he was skinning it, he was shot stark dead by one of his Consorts, who fired at him, mistaking him for a Deer. The poor Man was very sorry for so sad a mis- chance ; and for fear of the dead Man*s Friends, durst never go back again to Jamaica. The River of Tobasco is the most noted in all the Bay of Campeachy, and springs also from the high Mountains of Chiapo ; but much more to the Westward than that of St. Peter St. Paul. From thence it runs N. E. till within 4 Leagues of the Sea, where it receives the fore-mentioned Branch of St. Peter St. Paul, and then runs North till it 204 ^i TOBASCO RIVER— MANATEE I into the Sea. Its Mouth is about two Miles wide, I there is a Bar of Sand lying off it, with not above 1 1 '^^ I Kl2 foot Water; but a Mile or two within the Mouth, i nook cr bending of the River on the East-side there I three Fathom, and good Riding, without any danger fem the strength of the Current. The Tide flows up ifaout four Leagues in the dry Season, but in the Rains : so far ; for then the Freshes make the Ebb run very l[)uring the Norths it overflows all the low Land for jcr 15 Leagues up the River, and you may then take Itfiresh Water without the Bar. 7 This River, near its Mouih, abounds with Catfish, with : Snooks, and Manatee in great plenty; there being HOod feeding for them in many of tt5 Creeks, especially in E place on the Siarboard-side about 2 Leagues from the Rrhicb runs into the Land 2 or 300 paces, and then ( very wide, and is so shoal that you may see their above Water as they feed ; a thing so rare, that I beard our Muskcto-Mcn say, they never saw it any : else; on the least noise they will all scamper out the River: yet the Musketo-mcn seldom miss of king them. There are a son of Fresh-water Manatee, t altogether so big as the Sea-kind, but otherwise exactly r tn shape and taste, and I think rather fatter. The by the Rivers, especially on the Starboard side, is py, and overgrown with Trees. "lere are also abundance of Trees, (the largest that I law, till I came to the Gallapagoes Islands in the S. ) viz. Mangroves, Macaws, and oihcr sons that I know In »omc places near the Kiver-side, further up the Sontry, are Ridges of dry Land, full of lofty Cabbage md Cotton Trees, which make a very pleasant Landskip. nKTc n no Settlement within S Leagues of the River's ^Bth, and then you come to a small Breast-work, where ! h commonly a Spaniard with 8 or 9 Indians posted ich side the River, to watch for Boats coming that And because there arc divers Creeks running in from iavannahs, some of these Centinels are so placed in the J05 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Woods, that they may look into the Savannahs, for fear of 1676 being surprized on the back side : Yet for all their caution, these Centinels were snap*d by Captain Nevil,^ Commander of a small Brigantine, in a second Expedition that he made to take the Town called Villa de Mosa. His first attempt miscarried by his being discovered. But the second time he got into a Creek, a League below these Centinels, and there dragging his Canoas over some Trees that were laid cross it, purposely to hinder his Passage, he came in the Night upon their Backs in their several Posts ; so that the Town, having no notice of his coming by their firing as they should have done, was taken without any resistance. Villa de Mosa is a small Town standing on the Star- board side of the River, 4 Leagues beyond this Breast-work. 'Tis inhabited chiefly by Indians, with some Spaniards: There is a Church in the middle, and a Fort at the West- end, which commands the River. Thus far Ships come to bring Goods, especially European Commodities; viz. Broad-cloth, Serges, Perpetuana's,^ Kersies, Thread-Stock- ings, Hats, Osnabrugs white and blew, Kentins, Platilloes, Britannia's, Hollandilloes, Iron-work, &c. They arrive here in November or December, and stay till June or July, selling their Commodities, and then load chiefly with Ocao, and some Sylvester. All the Merchants and petty Traders of the Country Towns come hither about Christmas to Traffick, which makes this town the chiefest in all these parts, Campeachy excepted; yet there are but few Rich Men that live here. Sometimes Ships that come hither load Hides and Tallow, if they cannot fraight with Cacaa But the chiefest place for Hides is a Town lying on a Branch of this River, that comes out a League below the Breast-work, where Spanish Barks usually lade once a ^ Mentioned in Calendar of State Papers, West Indian and Colonial Series, Addenda, p. 490, Sir H. Morgan to various privateers under French commissions, telling them that they are welcome to Jamaica, and that Port Royal is free to them. He does not appear again. ' Perpetuanas^ or coarse woollens ; woven chiefly at Sudbury. Kerseys^ a ribbed coarse woollen cloth. Osnaburgs^ or Osnaburgh^ a rough linen. Kentin^ flne linen, gauze or muslin. Britannias^ linen of medium quality. Hollandilloes, fabrics of unbleached linen. Platilloes I cannot identify. 206 J Year ; but 1 can give no further account of it. Four ak. Lezgucs beyond Villa de Mosa further up the River lies '*?* Estapo, inhabited partly with Spaniards, but most Indians, ' as generally the Towns in this Country arc : It's said to be pretty nch ; stands close by the River, on the South- vde, and is so built between two Creeks, that th<;re is but one Avenue leading to it ; and so well guarded with a Breast-work, that Captain Hewet ' a Privateer, who had under him near 200 Men, was there repulsed, losing many of them, and himself wounded in the Leg. In his way thither he took Villa de Mosa, and left a Party there to ^curc his Retreat. If he had taken Estapo, he designed to jaas on to Halpo, a Rich Town, three Leagues farther up the River, and from thence to visit Tacatalpo, lying 3 or 4 League; beyond, which is accounted the wealthiest of the three: the Spaniards call it Tacatalpo de Sierra: whether to distinguish it from another Town of that Name, or to ^icnote its ncamcs-s to the Mountains, I know not. 'Tis the best Town on this River, having three Churches, ind several rich Merchants; and between it and Villa de Mosa arc many large Cacao Walks on each side the River. I have seen a sort of white Cacao brought from hence, which I never met with any where else. It is of the iamc bigness and colour on the outside, and with such a thin husky Coat as the other; but the inner Substance is white, like fine Flower ; and when the outward Coat is broken, it crumbles as a lump of Flower doth. Those that frequent the Bay call it Spuma, and affirm that it is much used by the Spaniards of those Parts, to make their ClwxoUtc froth, who therefore set a great value on it. But I never yet met with any in England that knew it, E'^^^yt the Right Honourable the Earl of Carbery,' who pleased to tell me he had seen of it. •■• - .01 Ckputn Hrwet: be it mentioned here, and in two oiher passages a bnber tM. I <:»> learn no uiore of him than that he took part in the above, thai he lost some handi at r>os Buccas, and that lUndcd t»id with Ciipuin Rives was made impossible by (he rains. Ear) or Cftrbcry, born 1640. Governor of Jamaica _^ . _ . e w»s President of the Royal Society rroni •46-4 ^cdieditii7i> 207 • >alin V»a^lMm 3*^ » t«74-i. nokOed in 1678. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The Land on the South-side of the River is low '676 Savannahs or Pasture : The side where the Town of Villa de Mosa stands, is a sort of gray sandy Earth; and the whole Country, the Up-land I mean, seems to be much the same : But the Low-land is of a black deep Mold, and in some places very strong Clay ; and there is not a Stone to be found in all the Country. The healthy dry Land is very woody, except where inhabited or planted. It is pretty thick settled with Indian Towns, who have all a Padre or two among them, and a Cacique or Gover- nour to keep the Peace. The Cacao Tree thrives here very well ; but the Nuts are smaller than the Caraccas Nuts; yet Oyly and Fat whilst new. They are not planted near the Sea, as they are on the Coast of Caraccas, but at least 8 or 10 Miles up in the Country. The Cacao-walks belong chiefly to the Spaniards; and are only planted and dress'd by Indians, hired for that purpose ; yet the Indians have of their own, Plantain-walks, Plantations of Maiz, and some small Cacao-walks ; about which they spend the chiefest of their time. Some employ themselves to search in the Woods for Bees that build in hollow Trees ; and get a good livelihood by the Honey and Wax. These are of two sorts: One pretty large; the other no bigger, but longer, than an ordinary black Fly : in other respects, just like our common Bees; only of a darker Colour. Their Stings are not strong enough to enter a Man's Skin ; but if disturbed, they will fly at one as furiously as the great Bees; and will tickle, but cannot hurt you. Their Honey is white and clear; and they make a great deal of it. The Indians keep of them tame, and cut hollow Trunks for them to make their Combs in. They place one end of the Log (which is saw'd very even) on a Board, leaving a hole for the Bees to creep in at: and the upper end is covered with a Board, put close over it. The young and lusty Indians (such as want Employ- ment) hire themselves to the Spaniards. They Work cheap, and are commonly paid in such Goods as the Spaniards do not value. And I have been told that they are obliged to work for their Masters, one Day in a Week, gratis: But 208 i INDIAN DRINK ' this Privilcdge belongs only to the Padres, or to rLaity also, I know not. The Indians inhabiting these ' /Hbges, live like Gentlemen in Comparison of those that re near any great Town, such as Campeachy or Merida : or there even the poorer and rascally Sort of People, that re not able to hire one of" these poor Creatures, will by ioknce drag them to do their drudgery for nothing, after bey have work'd all Day for their Masters : nay, they iftcn take them out of the Market from their Business ; w at least cnjoyn them to come to their Houses when hnr Market b ended : and they dare not refuse to do it. ■ This Country is very fruitful; yielding plentiful Crops KMaiz, which is their chiefest Subsistence. After it is Sled they bruise it on such a Rubbing-Stone as Chocolate I ground on. Some of it they make into small thin Cakes, ailed Tartillocs. The rest is put into a Jar till it grows Dwr; and when they are thirsty, mix a handful of it in a Jlllabash of Water, which gives it a sharp pleasant Taste, ben straining it through a large Callabash prick'd full of Ball Holes to keep out the Husks, they drink it off. If hejr treat a Friend with this Drink, they mix a little loficy with it ; for their Ability reaches no higher : And Itti ta as acceptable to them as a Glass of Wine to us. If bey travel for two or three Days from home, they carry e of this ground Maiz in a Plantain Leaf, and Calla- t at their Girdles to make their Drink, and take no r care for Victuals, till they come home again. This Utcd Pusolc : And by the English Poorsoul. It is so p cttcemcd by the Indians, that they are never without ^ of it in their Houses. lOihcf Way of preparing their Drink, is to parch the , and then grind it to Powder on the Rubbing-stone, ng a little Anatta ' to it ; which grows in their Planta- , and is used by them for no other purpose. They I it all with Water, and presently drink it off without " ling, s long Journeys they prefer this drink before Posole. ' /lita irrtllttMa, a rcddinh ilyc. 209 U CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. They feed abundance of Turkies, Ducks and Dunghill 1676 Fowls, of which the Padre has an exact Account ; and is very strict in gathering his Tithe : and they dare not kill any except they have his Leave for it. They plant Cotton also for their Cloathing. The Men wear only a short Jacket and Breeches. These with a Palmeto-Leaf Hat is their Sundays Dress; for they have neither Stockings nor Shoes; neither do they wear these Jackets on Week Days. The Women have a Cotton- Petticoat, and a large Frock down to their Knees; the Sleeves to their Wrists, but not gathered. The Bosom is open to the Breast, and Imbroidered with black or red Silk, or Grogram Yarn, two Inches broad on each side the Breast, and clear round the Neck. In this Garb, with their Hair ty'd up in a Knot behind, they think themselves extreme fine. The Men are obliged by the Padres (as I have been informed) to marry when they are Fourteen Years old, and the Women when Twelve : And if at that Age they are not provided, the Priest will chuse a Virgin for the Man (or a Man for the Virgin) of equal Birth and Fortune ; and join them together. The Spaniards give several Reasons for this Imposition, viz. That it preserves them from Debauchery, and makes them Industrious. — That it brings them to pay Taxes both to the King and Church; for as soon as they arc married they pay to both. — And that it keeps them from rambling out of their own Parish, and settling in another, which would by so much lessen the Padre's Profit. They love each other very well ; and live comfortably by the Sweat of their Brows : They build good large Houses, and inhabit altogether in Towns. The side Walls are Mud ot Watling, plaister'd on the Inside, and thatch'd with Pakn or Palmeto Leaves. The Churches are large, built much higher than the Common Houses, and covered with Pantile; and within adorned with coarse Pictures and Images of Saints ; which - are all painted tawny like the Indians themselves. Besides these Ornaments, there are kept in the Churches Pipe^ 210 PADRES— SPANISH TYRANNY Hautboys, Drums, Vizars ' and Perruques = for their Recrea- tion at solemn Times ; for they have little or no Sport cr ' Pastime but in common, and that only upon Saints Days, and the Nights ensuing. The Padres that serve here, must leam the Indian Language before they can have a Benefice. As for their Tithes and other locomcs. Mr. Gage, (an Englishmaa) ith given a large Account of them in his ''Survey of the 'cst-Indics." But however, this I will add of my own lowledgc, that they are ver)- dutiful to their Priests, -ving punctually their Orders, and behave themselves circumspectly and reverently in their Presence. They arc generally well-shaped, of a middle Size ; ighl and clean Limbed. The Men more spare, the 'omen plump and fat, their Faces are round and flat, icir Foreheads low, their Eyes little, their Noses of a middle Size, somewhat flattish ; full Lips; pretty full but little Mouths; white Teeth, and their Colour of a dark tawny, like other Indians. They sleep in Hammocks made with small Cords like a Net, fastned at each End to a Post. Their Furniture is but mean, viz. Earthen Pots to boil their Maiz in. and abundance of Callabashes. They are a very harmless Sort of People ; kind to any Strangers; and even to the Spaniards, by whom they are so much kept under, that they are worse than Slaves : ray, the very Negroes will domineer over them ; and are countenanced to do so by the Spaniards. This makes them very mclancholly and thoughtful: however they are very quiet, and seem contented with their Condition, if they can tolerably subsist : But sometimes when they are imposed on beyond their Ability, they will march off whole Towns, Men, Women, and Children together, as is bdorc related. ■ Vnard* or mulu. ' "A eounieifcii cap of false liaire." CHAP. V The River of Checapeque. The River of Dos Bocas. The Towns up the Country. Halpo. Their Trade, Old HatSj a good Com- modity, A Sad Accident in Hunting, Tondelo River. Musketoes troublesom on this Coast, Guasickwalp River, Teguantapeque River, Few Gold Mines on all this part of the Sea-coast, Teguantapeque Town. Keyhooca and its Canoa-Trade, Vinelhs, Alvarado River y and its Branches, Its FortSy Town and Trade, Cod-Pepper, La Vera Cruz, The Fort of St, John £ UlUa. The Barra la Venta Fleet ; and their Navigation about the West- India Coast. The Town of Tispo. Paunuk River and Town, Lagune and Town of Tompeque, Huniago Island, Its Trade in Shrimps. The Author's Return to Logwood-cutting at Trist, Captain Gibbs killed there by some Indians he brought from New^ England, The Author^ s setting out to Jamaica and return for England, AVING given the Reader an account of the Indians inhabiting about the River of Tobasco ; I come next to describe the Western-Coast of this Bay, with its Rivers and other most re- markable Particulars. From Tobasco River to the River Checapeque^ is seven Leagues. The Coast lies East and West ; all woody low Ground, sandy Bay, and good Anchoring; but there falls in a pretty high Sea on the shore, therefore but bad landing ; yet Canoas may with care run in, if the Men are ready to leap out, as soon as she touches the Ground ; and then she must immediately be dragged up out of the Surf. And the same caution and dexterity is to be used when they go off again. There is no fresh Water between Tobasco River and Checapeque. This latter is rather a salt Creek than a River; for the * Chiltepec. 212 CHECAPEQUE RIVER Mouth of it is not above 20 Paces wide, and about 8 or 9 Foot Water on the Bar ; but within there b 12 or 13 Foot ' at low Water, and good riding for Barks, half a Mile within the Mouth. This Creek runs in E. S. E. about two Miles, and then strikes away South up into the Country. At its Mouth between it and the Sea is a bare sandy Pont of Luid : Where on the side next the River, close by the Brink of it (and no where else) you may scrape up the Sand (which is coane and brown) with your Hands, and get fresh Water ; but if you dig lower the Water will be salt. Half a Mile within the Mouth, when you are past the «mdy Point, the Land is wet and swampy, bearing only Mangroves on each side for four or five Leagues up ; and after that firm Land ; where you will And a run of fresh Water, it being all Salt till you come hither. A League beyond that is a Beef Estantion or Farm of Cattle, belonging to an Indian Village. In the Woods on each side this River there arc plenty of Guanoes, Land Turtle, and abundance of ^uams and Corresos, with some Parrots ; and there is no Settlement nearer than the Beef Estantion ; nor any Thing else remarkable in this River that I know. A League West from Checapeque there is another fsiall River called Dos Boccas, 'tis only fit for Canoas to enter : It has a Bar at its Mouth, and therefore is some- what dangerous. Yet the Privateers mzde light of it; for they will govern a Canna very ingeniously. However Captain Rives and Captain Hewet, two Privateers,' lost icveral Men here in coming out ; for there had been a North, which had raised the Bar, and in going out most ^jf their Canoas were overset, and some Men drowned. ^^L This River will not float a Canoa above a League within ^^■i Mouth, and so far is Salt : but there you meet with PVfinc clear Stream of fresh Water, about a League up in the Country : and beyond this are fair Savannahs of long GnM, fenced in with Ridges of as rich Land as any in • Of Cip"*" Rive* i can leant nothiiiK more than Dampier tdU us. H< m «(A>a nwationed an p. 117. Hi» sMocutc, Captain Hcwct, ib d on p. »07- 213 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the World. The Mold such as is formerly described ; '^76 all plain and level, even to the Hills of Chiapo. There are no Indian Towns within four or five Leagues of the Sea; but further off they are pretty thick; lying within a League, two or three one after another : Halpo is the chiefest. The Indians make use of no more Land than serves to maintain their Families in Maiz ; and to pay their Taxes : And therefore between the Towns it lies uncultivated. In all this Country they rear abundance of Poultry, viz. Turkeys, Ducks and Dunghil Fowls: but some of them have Cacao- Walks. The Cacao of these Parts is most of it sent to Villa de Mose, and ship*d off there. Some of it is sold to Carriers that travel with Mules, coming hither commonly in November or December, and staying till February or March. They lye a Fortnight at a time in a Village to dispose of their Goods ; which are commonly Hatchets, Macheats, Axes, Hoes, Knives, Cizars, Needles, Thread, Silk for sowing. Women's Frocks ; small Looking-glasses, Beads, Silver or Copper -Rings wash'd with Gold, set with Glass instead of Stones, small Pictures of Saints, and such like Toys for the Indians. And for the Spaniards, Linnen and Woollen Cloaths, Silk-Stockings, and old Hats new dress'd, which are here very valuable, and worn by those of the best Quality ; so that an old English Beaver thus ordered, would be worth 20 Dollars ; so much is Trade wanted here in this Country. When he has sold ofF his Goods, he is generally paid in Cacao, which he carries to La Vera Cruz. From Dos Boccas to the River Pal mas is four Leagues, low Land and sandy Bay between. From Pal mas ^ to the Halover is two Leagues. The Halover^ is a small Neck of Land, parting the Sea from a large Lagune. It is so called by the Privateers, because they use to drag their Canoas in and out there. From the Halover to St. Anns is six leagues. ^ Now Jalpa. ' Palmas would seem to be Tupilco. ' The Halover is a bar of land shutting the Laguna de Santa Anna from the sea. 214 ^P St. Anns* is a Mouth that opens the Lagune before- mcntion'd : there is not above six or seven Foot Water, ' fet Barks often go in there to Careen. From St. Anns to Tondelo^ is five Leagues. The CcBst still West ; the Land low, and sandy Bay against the Sea : a little trithin which are pretty high Sand-Banks, cloithcd with prickly - Bushes, such as I have already described at Bcef-Island. Against the Sea near the West-end, within the Sand- Banlt, the Land is lower again ; the Woods not very high, and fomc spots of Savannahs, with plenty of fat Bullocks; In hunting of which a Frenchman unhappily lost his Life. For his Company being stragled from him to find Game, be anluckily met a Drove of Cattle flying from them in the WocxJs, which were so thick that there was no passing but in these very narrow Paths that the Cattle themselves h*d nude ; so that not being able to get out of their way, the foremost of the Drove thrust his Horns into hii Back and carried him too Paces into the Savannah, where he fell down with his Guta trailing on the Ground. The River Tondelo is but narrow, yet capable to receive Barks of 50 or 60 Tuns: There is a Bar at the Emnnce, and the Channel crooked. On the West-side of the Bar there is a spit of Sand shoots out ; therefore to avoid it at your coming in, you must keep the East-side aboard; but when once entered, you may run up for two or three Leagues; on the Hast-side a quarter of a Mile within the Mouth, you may lye secure : but all this Coast, and especially this River, intolerably swarms with Muskeioes. that there is no sleeping for them. About four or five Leagues from the Mouth this River » fordabic, and there the Road crosses it ; where two French Canoas that lay in this River intercepted the Caravan of Mules laden with Cacao,' that was returning to La Vera Cruz, taking away as much as they could canry with them. ST. ANNS— TONDELO 215 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. From Tondelo River, to the River of Guasickwalp/ "676 is eight Leagues more, the Coast still West ; all along sandy Bay and sand Hills, as between St. Anns and Tondelo ; only towards the West-part the Bank is lower, and the Trees higher. This is one of the principal Rivers of this Coast ; *tis not half the Breadth of the Tobasco River, but deeper. Its Bar is less dangerous than any on this Coast, having 14 foot Water on it, and but little Sea. Within the Bar there is much more, and soft Oasie Ground. The Banks on both sides are low. The East- side is woody, and the West-side Savannah. Here arc some Cattle ; but since it has been frequented by Privateers, the Spaniards have driven most of their Bullocks from hence farther into the Country. This River hath its rise near the South-Sea, and is navigable a great way into Land ; especially with Boats or small Barks. The River Teguantepeque, that falls into the South- Seas, has its Origine near the Head of Guasickwalp ; and it is reported that the first Naval Stores for the Manila Ships were sent through the Country from the North to the South-Seas, by the convenicncy of these two Rivers, whose Heads are not above ten or twelve Leagues asunder, I heard this discoursed by the Privateers long before I visited the South-Seas ; and they seemed sometimes minded to try their Fortunes this way : supposing (as many do still) that the South-Sea shore is nothing but Gold and Silver. But how grosly they are mistaken, I have satisfied the World already. And for this part of the Country, though it is rich in Land, yet it has not the least Appear- ance of any Mine, neither is it thick inhabited with Spaniards: And if I am not deceived, the very Indians in the Heart of the Country are scarce their Friends. The Town of note on the South-Sea, is Teguantapeque ; and on the North-Seas Keyhooca ^ is the chiefest near this River. Besides these two, the Country is only inhabited by Indians ; therefore it is wholly unfrequented by Shipping. Keyhooca is a large rich Town of good Trade, about ' Coatzocoalcos. * Acayuca. 216 J KETHOOa^ LeagQet from the Rtrcr Gaaskkwal|i^ ok the West- It is i a h a bic ed with soane fisv Sparanis and ' : of Mubtoes. These keep onar Moles, they eing moK Ctrrio^ and frequently visit xhe Ckso CoKt iTeJ ihe Coiinn7 h^ w tea Vtlh di " " ind Lk Vcn Cruz. This Country is pleasant enough m xbe dry ! but when the furious North \Vtnds rage on the Coast, ind violently drive in the Sea, it sufev extrcmelf, being ^i much overfiown, that there is no travelling. It w«s -.n the wet Season when Capnun Rives and Captain Hewet made an Expedition in Canoas from the Island Trist to the River Guasickwtlp. and there landed their Men, designing to attack Keyhooca; but the Country was so wet that there was no marching ; neither wzs the Water high enough for a Canoa. Here are great plenty- of Vincllcs. From the River Guasickvalp the Land runs West two or three Leagues, all low Land with sandy Bay to the Sea, ind very woody in the Country. About three Leagues to rile West of it the Land trends away to the North for ibout 16 Leagues; rising higher also even from the very Shore, a> you go up within Land, making a very high Promontory called St. Manins Land ; but ending in a pretty bluff point ; ' which is the West Bounds of the Bay of Campeachy. From this bluff Point to Alvarado is about twenty Leagues; the first four of it a high rocky shore, with ^ccp QifFs to the Sea ; and the Land somewhat woody. Ahcrwtrds you pass by very high Sand-Hills by the Sea, W >n extraordinary great Sea falls in on the shore, which LWnders any Boats from Landing. Within the Sand-hills jBB the Land is lower, pretty plain and fruitful enough ■ Urge Trees. Tne River of Alvarado is above a Mile over ai the Hith, yet the entrance is but sholc. there being Sands r near two Mile off the Shore, clear from side to side, • Punia Morillo- 217 CAPTAIX DAMPIER'S VOYAGES -x-< 45. rjerx-rrheiesa zncr^ irz zw-z Grazaeia thruu gh these Sands. Trji "CSC -v^zicz, 3 in liii !ricvile, has rwctve or fourteen F >-x Wi-:-r. The Lird on cacfi iie of the Mouth is ThL-i RrTiT Ci^mes out or d:e Cjcntrr tn chie e Branches, mccTir-g il'^g^h^' j-^t Trirhin rhe Mouth, where it is very wii* 2rjd disr, Oie of these Bnzicfaes comes from the Ea.itTrari ; 2:io»:her froci the Westward ; and the third, whrch 3 the tmt Rit-t of Alvando and the bi gg e st^ comes dirsctiT OUT of the C:.ui:try, opposite to the Sand-hills, aixjut a M:Ie W-st of the Rhrer's Mouth. This last Springs a great wiy fron the Sea, passing through a very fertile Country, thxk set led with Towns of Spaniards and Indians. On the West-side, and just against the Mouth of the River, the Spaniards have a small Fort of six Gtms, on the declivity of the Sand-bank, a great height above the River ; which commands a small Spanish Town on the back of it, built in a Plain close by the Rhrer. It is a great Fishery, chiefly for Snooks, which they catch in the Lake ; and when they are salted and dryed, drive a great Trade in Exchanging them for Salt and other Commodities. Besides salt Fish, they export from hence abundance of dry Cod-Pepper, and some pickled and put in Jars. This Pepper is known by the Name of Guinea-Pepper.* Yet for all this Trade, *tis but a poor Place, and has been often taken by the Privateers,* chiefly to secure their Ships while they should go up in their Canoas to the rich Towns ^thin Land, which notwithstanding they never yet attempted, by reason that La Vera Cruz bordering so near, they were still afraid of being attacked both by Sea and Land from thence, and so never durst prosecute their Designs on the Country Towns. Six Leagues West from Alvarado there is another large Opening out into the Sea; and it is reported to have a Communication by a small Creek with this River of Alvarado ; and that Canoas may pass through it from cme ' Cayenne pepper. ' I can trace no record of any other capture than that in which Damiiier took part. 2l8 i XA VERA CRUZ River to the other. And at this Opening is a small Fish- ing Viltage. The Land by the Sea Is a continued high ' Sind-bank, and so violent a Sea, that it is impossible to land with Boat or Canoa. From this River to La Vera Cruz is six Leagues more, the Coast still West. There is a Riff of Rocks * runs along the shore from Alvarado to Vera Cruz, yet a good Channel for tmall VesseU to pass between it and the Shore. And about two Leagues to the East of Vera Cruz are two Islands called Sacrifice Islands.' 1 have set down the distance between Alvarado and La Vera Cruz, according to the common Account of twelve Leagues, which I take to be truer, but -ur Draughts make it 24. The Land by the Sea is much the same. La Vera Cruz is a fair Town seated in the very bottom of the Bay of Mexico, at the S. W. Point or Comer of the Bay ; for so far the Land runs West ; and there it turns about to the North. There is a good Harbour before it, made by a small Island,' or Rock rather, just in its Mouth ; which makes it very commodious. Here the Spaniards have built a strong Fort, which commands the Harbour ; and there are great Iron Rings fix'd Jn the Fort-Wall against the Harbour for Ships to fasten their Cables. For the North Winds blow so violently here in their Seasons, that Ships are not safe at Anchors. This Fort is called St. John d'Ulloa ; and the Spaniards !o frequently call the Town of Vera Cruz by this Name. The Town is a Place of great Trade ; being the Sea- Pon to the City of Mexico, and must of the great Towns and Cities in this Kingdom. So that all the European Commodities, spent in these Parts, arc landed here, and * Tbe Cabeia, and other reels. ■ Uiaa SAMificiot, Ibc Pajaroc Reef, and others. ■ "Thii Pon if a link Inland of »ionc» not three foot above iho water 3 tfec hial pUcc, and hul a bow-shoolc of lenKlh any way. This Uland -■■rtnti frtwn the maine Und two bow-shonics or mure (600 yards), also, r a ki he orydentDod that there is not in all this coastc any other place (or A nnK S to amve in tafetie, becaiue the north wind hath there such violence cat mlei the tbippes be very nCely mored with their ancres liutned tipon 'h> Uand. (bere is bo remedie for these North wiodes but death" (John H^wkna, hi* Iktrii Vvymp)- ZI9 CAPTAIX DAMPIER'S VOYAGES zhsir Gcods bryc^rz rhiacr ini crportcd from hence. '^■^ Air zo tis, trar at tbc Trascrc farooght from Manila, in tbe EasC'Lidu cccaes hhber through the Country frod Acca;:ulca- Tic Flota cofrcs cftber crcrr three Years from Old Spain ; and besides Goods of the Product of the Country, and what 3 brought frxicn the East-Indies and ship'd aboard them : Tbe Kii:g*s Plate that is gathered in this Kingdom, together with what belongs to the Merchants, amounts to a vast Summ. Here also comes every Year the Barrala- vanu Fleet in October and November, and stays till March. This is a small Squadron, consisting of nx or seven sail of stout Ships, from 20 to 50 Guns. These are ordered to visit all the Spanish Sea-Port Towns once every Year; chiefly to hinder Foreigners frx>m Trading ; and to suppress Privateers. From this Port they go to the Havana on the North-side of Cuba to sell their Commodities From hence they pass through the Gulph of Florida ; standing so far to the North as to be out of the Trade- Winds, which are commonly between 3od. and 4od. of Lat. and being in a variable Winds way they stretch away to the Eastward till they may fetch Portarica, if they have Bu»- ness there ; if not, they keep still to the Eastward till they come to Trinidado, an Island near the Main, inhabited by the Spaniards, and the most Eastern-part of any Conse- quence in the North-Seas. The Barralaventa Fleet touches there first, and from thence sails to the Margarita, a con- siderable Spanish-Island near the Main. From thence they Coast down to Comana and La Guiary, and passing by the Coast of Carraccas, they sail towards the Gulph of Mericaia,^ from thence they double Cape La Veil,* and so down to Rio la Hacha, St. Martha and Carthagena. If they meet with any English or Dutch Trading Sloops, they chace and take them, if they are not too nimble for them: The Privateers keep out of their way, having always Intelligence where they are. From Carthagena they sail to Portobello; and from * Maracaibo. * Cape de Vela. 220 TISPO— PANUK ^^ thence to Campeachy : and lastly, to La Vera Cruz : And an. th» is their Annual Navagation about the Wcst-Indkn '^ Coast. J La Vera Cruz was taken by the Privatcere, about the I Year 85 under the Conduct of one John Russel an | old Logvood-Cuttcr that had formerly been taken by the Spaniards and sent to Mexico ; where Icamit^ Spaniih, he by that means escaped to La Vera Cruz; and being released from thence, he afterwards managed J this Expedition. I From hence to Old Vera Cruz is five Leagues. This I was the first Town of chat Name ; but wanting a good I Harbour there, it was removed to the Place where it now I stands. I From Old Vera Cruz to Tispo ' is about fifteen Leagues ; I the Coast lies N. and S. Tispo is a pretty handsome small I Town, built close by the Sea, and watered with a little I Rivulet ; but wanting a Harbour, 'tis destitute of any I Maritime-Trade. I From Tispo to the River Panuk' is about twenty I I.eague8 : The Coast lies N. and S. nearest, it is a large I River, descending out of the very Bowels of the Country, I and running East, falls into the Gulph of Mexico, in Lat. I about si-jo Minutes. It has ten or eleven Koot Water I en the Bar, and is oflcn visited with Barks ihat sail up it, I a& &r as the City Panuk, lying distant from the Sea about I twenty Leagues, and is the principal of this Country, being I a Btshop's Sec. There arc two Churches, one Convent, and I a Chapel; and about five Hundred Families of Spaniards, I Mulatoes and Indians. The Houses arc large and strong ; I with Stone Walls; and they are thatched with Palmeto I One Branch of this River comes out of the Lagunc I r Tompcque,* and mixes with this, three Leagues before | ^^^£UK into the Sea. Therefore it is sometimes called the ^^■nr of Tompeque. The Lagunc of Tompcque lies on ^^P* Protablf TuxfMH. Dsiiipier'i ilistancct aw mitlMtliiiK in ihii in- ' Tanipico. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. the South Side of the River; and breeds abundance of 1676 Fish, especially Shrimps. There is a Town of the same Name, built on its Banks, whose Inhabitants are most Fishermen. Beyond this Lagune there is another large one, wherein is an Island and Town named Haniago ; its Inhabitants most Fishermen, whose chief Employment is to take Shrimps. These they boil with Water and Salt, in great Coppers, for the purpose ; and having dried them afterwards in the Sun, they are made up in Packs, and sent to all the chief Towns in the Country, especially to Mexico, where, tho' but a hungry Sort of Food, they are mightily esteemed. The Account I have given of the Campeachy Rivers, &c. was the Result of the particular Observations I made in cruising about that Coast, in which I spent eleven or twelve Months. For when the violent Storm before- mentioned took us, I was but just settling to Work, and not having a Stock of Wood to purchase such Provision as was sent from Jamaica, as the old Standards had ; I, with many more in my Circumstances, was forced to range about to seek a Subsistence in Company of some Privateers then in the Bay. In which Rambles we visited all the Rivers from Trist to Alvarado ; and made many Descents into the Country among the Villages there, where we got Indian Corn to eat with the Beef, and other Flesh that we got by the way, or Manatee and Turtle, which was also a great Support to us. Alvarado was the Westermost Place I was at. Thither we went in two Barks with thirty Men in each, and had ten or eleven kill'd and desperately wounded in taking the Fort ; being four or five Hours engag'd in that Service, in which time the Inhabitants having plenty of Boats and Canoas, carried all their Riches and best Moveables away. It was after Sunset before the Fort yielded ; and growing dark, we could not pursue them, but rested quietly that - Night ; the next Day we killed, salted and sent aboard twenty or thirty Beefs, and a good Quantity of Salt-fish, and Indian Corn, as much as we could stow away. Here were but few Hogs, and those eat very fishy ; therefore wc did 222 . i not much csieem them : but of Cocks, Hens and Ducks *'*J were sent aboard in abundance. The tame Parrots we '^'tI found here were the lai^est and fairest Birds of their Kind I thit I ever saw in the West-Indies. Their colour was I vcUow »nd red, very coarsely mixt ; and they would prate ■ very prettily; and there was scarce a Man but what sent I 2bwil one or two of them. So that with Provision, Chests, I Hcn-Coops and Parrot -Cages, our Ships were full of ' Lumber, with which we intended to sail : But the second Day after we took the Fort, having had a Westerly Wind ill the Morning, with Rain, seven Armadllloes that were i sent from La Vera Cruz appeared in Sight, within a Mile I • if the Bars, coming in with full Sail ; but they could scarce I item the Current of the River ; which was very well for I us; for we were not a little surprized. Yet we got under I Sail, in order to meet them ; and clearing our Decks by I heaving all the Lumber overboard, we drove out over the I Bar, before they reached it; But they Iwing to Wind-ward, I ftirccd us to exchange a few Shot with them. Their I Admiral was called the Toro. She had lo Guns and too 1 Men ; another had 4 Guns and 80 Men : The rest having 1 no great Guns, had only 60 or 70 Men apiece, armed I with Muskets, and the Vessels barricadoed round with | Bull-hides Breast high. We had not above 50 Men in both Ships, 6 Guns in one and two in the other. As soon , as wc wtTc over the Bar, we got our Larboard -Tacks aboard and stood to the Eastward, as nigh the Wind as we could lye. The Spaniards came away quartering on us; J and our Ship being the Head-most, the Toro came directly | luwardi us, designing to board us. Wc kept firing at her, I in hopes to have lamed either Mast or Yard ; but failing, I ■ Wat as she was shearing aboard, we gave her a good Volley, 1 Ipad presently clapp'd the Helm a Weather, wore our Ship, I ^pnd got our Starboard Tacks aboard, and stood to the I ^Vncxward : and so left the Toro, but were saluted by all I ^■Bc small Craft as we past by them, who stood to the I ^Kistward after the Ton, that was now in Pursuit and close J BV oar Consort. Wc stood to the Westward till we were I H*|>iRit the River's Mouth; then we tackt, and by the help I H ^^3 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of the Current that came out of the River, we were near 1676 a Mile to Windward of them all. Then we made sail to assist our Consort, who was hard put to it; but on our Approach the Toro edged away towards the Shore, as did all the rest, and stood away for Alvarado : And we, glad of the Deliverance, went away to the Eastward, and visited all the Rivers in our Return again to Trist ; and searched the Bays for Munjack to carry with us for the Ship's use, as we had done before for the use both of Ships and Canoas. Munjack is a sort of Pitch or Bitumen, which we find in Lumps, from three or four Pounds to thirty Pounds in a Lump ; washed up by the Sea, and left dry on all the Sandy-Bays on all this Coast : It is in Substance like Pitch, but blacker ; it melts by the Heat of the Sun, and runs abroad as Pitch would do if exposed, as this is, on the Bays : The smell of it is not so pleasant as Pitch, neither does it stick so firmly as Pitch, but it is apt to peel oflF from the Seams of Ships Bottoms ; however we find it very useful here where we want Pitch; and because it is commonly mixed with Sand by lying on the Bays, we melt it and refine it very well before we use it ; and commonly temper it with Oyl or Tallow to correct it; for though it melts by the Heat of the Sun, yet it is of a harsher Nature than Pitch. I did never find the like in any other Part of the World, neither can I tell from whence it comes. And now the Effects of the late Storm being almost forgot, the Lagune Men settled again to their Imployments ; and I among the rest fell to work in the East Lagune, where I remained till my Departure for Jamaica. I will only add as to this Logwood-Trade in general, that I take it to be one of the most profitable to England, and it nearest resembles that of Newfoundland ; since what arises from both, is the Product of bare Labour ; and that the Persons imployed herein are supported by the Produce of their Native Country. It is not my Business to determine how far we might have a right of cutting Wood there, but this I can say, 224 IE AUTHOR'S RETURN TO ENGLAND Hhe ^Hat the Spaniards never receive less Damage from the ^^trsons who generally follow that Trade, than when they ' are employed upon that Work. While I was here the last time, Capt. Gibbs arriv'd in a Ship of about lOO Tons, and brought with him 20 stout New-England Indians that were taken in the Wars there, designing to have sold them at Jamaica, but not finding a cood Market, brought them hither to cut Logwood, and nired one Mr. Richard Dawkins to be their Overseer, who auricd them to work at Summasenta ; But it so happened that about a Week after, the Captain came thither in his Bom from One-Bush-Key where his Ship lay, and the Overseer having some Business, desired leave to be absent for two or three Days: But as soon as he and the Seamen were gone, the Indians taking their Opportunity killed the Captam and marched off, designing to return to their own Country by Land : They were seen about a Month after- w»rd, and one of them was taken near the River Tondeio. After I had spent about ten or twelve Months at the Logwood-Trade, and was grown pretty well acquainted with the way of Traffick here, I left the Imployment, yet with a design to return hither after I had been in England ; and accordingly went from hence with Captain Chambers of Loodon, bound to Jamaica. We sailed from Trist the Banning of April, 1678, and arrived at Jamaica in May, where I remained a small Time, and then return'd for England with Captain Loader of London. 1 arriv'd there •he beginning of August the same Year: and at the Be- .- naing of the followmg Year I set out again for Jamaica, order to have gone thence to Campeachy ; but it proved ■ ' be a Voyage round the World ; of which the Publick ■ i^ already had an Account in my former Volume, and -.c Fint Part of This, CAP. DAMPIER HIS DISCOURSE OF THE TRADE -WINDS, BREEZES, STORMS, SEASONS OF THE YEAR, TIDES AND CURRENTS OF THE TORRID ZONE THROUGHOUT THE WORLD A DISCOURSE OF WINDS A Scheme of the following Treatise. { In or near the Torrid Zooe. Trade windty p. 229 Breezes 'True, or General at Sea, 230. {Constant, 239. [Oblique Po Shifting to \ Opposite P( y in the E. Sea, 252. ' General, 254. n r (Suramasenta Peculiar to lr» _^. ^ ^ A Carthagena- some Coasts. | n • IPopogaios, Land Producing particular ^ Effects; Terrenos, or hot winds of Harmatans, renos of In the West Indies. Storms and their Pre- < sages. In the East Indies. ' Norths, 280, and Chocolatta North, 2 (Jamaica, li Campeachy, , Hurricans of the Caribbee I ' Tuffoons, 290. Stormy Monsoons, 291 ; and Elephanta, 292. Seasons of the Year, dry, wet. Tornadoes, &c., 2* Tides, 305. V Currents, 314. An Account of the Country of Natal, 321. 228 MR. DAMPIER^S VOYAGES VOL. II. PART III K DISCOURSE OF WINDS, BREEZES, STORMS, TIDES, AND CURRENTS CHAP. I 0/ M^ Genera/ Trade-^ind THE INTRODUCTION Gnural Trade-mnd at Sea. Of the htst Time of the Year ta (Tfii tht Ejuinactiai. The IVindi near the Lint iommonly un- ttriatH, and attended with Caims arid Tcrnadoes, A Reason of the f^tndi hlawiig South near the Line, in the /ftJanlici Sea. Haw Shft htmnuard-ttand fram ike Bite of Guinea, should cross the Lin*. Of the Tradt-lVind in the Soulh-Sea, and in the Easl- ■IndiaH Ocean, SHALL reduce what I have to say on this Subject to some General Heads; beginning with the Tradu- winds as being the most rcmarlcablc. Trade-winds are such as do blow constantly from Point or Quarter of the Compass, and the Region of "World most peculiar to them, is from about 30 d. , to 30 d. South of the liquator. rhere are divers sorts of these Winds; some blowing I E»st to Wcit, some from South to North, others from to East, &c. Some arc constant in one Quaner all ^ear; some blow one half the Year one way, and the ux Months quite contrary ; and others blow six la one my, and then shifting only eight or ten 229 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS Points, continue six Months more, and then return again to their former Stations, as all these shifting Trade-winds do; and so as the Year comes about, they alternately succeed each other in their proper Seasons. There are other sorts, called Sea- Winds and Land- winds, difFering much from any of the former, the one blowing by Day, the other by Night, constantly and regularly succeeding each other. Within the Torrid Zone also are violent Storms, as fierce, if not fiercer, than any are in other Parts of the World. And as to the Seasons of the Year, I can dis- tinguish them there, no other way than by Wet and Dry ; and these wet and dry Seasons do as successively follow each other, as Winter and Summer do with us. Here are also strong Currents, sometimes setting one way, sometimes another ; which though it is hard to describe, with that Accuracy which is desirable, yet I shall give as particular an Account of them, as also of the several sorts of Winds, as my own Observations, and the judicious Informations from others, will afFord me Matter to do. Of the General Trade- IVind. Of all Winds before- mentioned, I shall endeavour to treat distinctly ; beginning with the True Trade- Wind first, which I call the General Trade- Wind at Sea ; because all other Trade- Winds, whether constant or shifting, seem to have their Dependance on some accidental Cause; whereas the Cause of these, be it what it will, seems uniform and constant. These General Trade- Winds are only in the Atlantick Ocean which parts Africa from America, in the East-Indian Ocean, and in the Great South-Sea. In all these Seas, except just under or near the Line, they constantly blow without Intermission, as well to the South, as to the North of the Equator, but not with equal Force at all Times, nor in all Latitudes; Neither do these constant Trade-Winds usually blow near thfe 230 OF THE GENERAL TRADE-WIND 9tore, but only m the Ocean, at least 30 or 40 Leagues off at Sea, clear from any Land ; especially on the West Coast, or Side of any Continent : For indeed on the East- ode, the Easterly Wind being the true Trade-Wind, blows almost home to the Shore ; so near as to receive a Check from the Land-Wind, and oft-times to admit of the Sca-Brecze, by which it is drawn from its Course ftwjucntly four or five Points of the Compass : But of the Sca-Brcczc I shall speak in its Place. In some Places, and particularly the South Seas, in South Lat, the true Eastern Trade is not found to blow within 150 or near 200 Leagues of the Coast, but in North Lat. in those S ea s, it comes within 30 or 40 Leagues distance of the Sliore: And this I shall give as a general Rule, that in North Lat. these Winds are commonly at E. N. E. in South Ut. at E. S. E. When we go from England, and are bound to the East or West-Indies, or to Guinea, we commonly find t hese Winds in the Lat. of 30 d. sometimes sooner, as in the Latitudes of 32 or 35. And it may so happen that wc may meet with an Easterly Wind in 40 d. or go out of our Channel with a Norih-East Wind, which sometimes also fails us not till wc come into a true Trade-Wind ; but ihk b only accidental, therefore is not the Wind that I vpeak of; but between 32 and 2S I did never know nor hear, that the true Trade-Wind failed. If in coming from England, we have a North-Easterly Wind that brings us hither, (i.e. into the true Trade-wind) it aometimes suys at North-East, especially if we keep near the African Shore, as Guinea Ships do, till we are near the Tropjck of Cancer, and then comes to the E. N. E. where it settles; but commonly it settles there in 28 d. if wc are so far off Shore as to receive the true Trade When the Wind is thus settled, we have commonly hir Weather, and a clear Sky, especially if the Sun is in L y>J Southern Sign ; but if in a Northern Sign, the Weather h iiBiMlly cloudy. ^ft On the contrary, when we are in South Lat. in the ^■AdiDbck, if the Sun is in Northern Signs, the Sky is clear, ■ 231 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS but if in Southern Signs, the Sky is cloudy. This I once experienced to my Sorrow, in my return from Bantam, in the Year 1 67 1 . We had cloudy Weather and brisk Winds, while we were crossing the East-India Ocean, and had a very good Passage also about the Cape of Good Hope ; where we had fair clear Weather; And steering from thence, for the Island of St. Hellena, where we thought to water and refresh, as all our English East-India Ships do, we mist it for want of an Observation. For before wc came to the Tropick of Capricorn, the Sky was again clouded, so that we seldom saw the Sun or Stars, till we were quite past the Island. However we found the Isle of Ascention, where we struck two Turtle, (for this was not the laying Time, but the beginning of the Cooting or Ingendring Season; therefore some few only were drawn hither.) This was the latter-end of November. From the time that we thought our selves to the West of St. Hellena, we had our Water measured out to us, two Pints a Man per Day, till we came into our Channel. This was the first time that I began to know the Value of fresh Water ; for we took in none in all our Way home from Bantam. But so much for this Digression. The Winds, as I said before, as we run to the South* ward from England, do first settle in the E. N. E. about the Lat. of 28 d. or be sure between that and 24 d. especially when the Sun is to the Southward of the Line ; but in May, June, and July you will find the Winds at E. by S. or E. S. E. These Winds, whether we meet them to the North of the East, or to the South of it, we find blowing a moderate Gale from our first meeting them in 30 or 28 d. till we come to the Tropick, there we find the Trade stronger : It commonly blows a good Top-sail Gale, as we sail large : And if we were to sail on a Wind, .our lower Sails would be enough. These brisk Gales blow in the Atlantick Ocean, and North of the Equator, from the Lat. of 23 to 12 or 14 constantly, between the E. N. E. and the E. but between 10 to 12 degrees and the Line, they are not so fresh ncM* 232 OF THE GENERAL TRADE-WIND cnnsnni, to that Point ; for in the Months of July and August, the South-Winds do oft-times blow even to 1 1 d. or IZ d. of Nonh Lit. keeping between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. or S. W, but in December and January the true Trade blows between 3 d. or 4 d. of the Equator. And as the Sun returns again to the Northward, so the Southerly Winds do increase and draw more to the Northward of the Line, till July, and then gradually withdraw back again towards the Line : When the Sun 15 in Southern Signs, 'tis the best time of the Year to cross the Line, if bound to the Southward ; for besides the Benefit of the true Trade, to bring 2 Ship near the Line, the Wind is then more constant and fresh, the Weather clearer, and the Winds which at other Times are between the S. S. E. and S. S. W. are now at S. E. or S, E. and by E. but in our Summer Months we find nothing but Calmt and Tornadoes ; and tho' Tornadoes do usually rise against the settled Wind ; yet but few Commanders will endeavour to take the Advantage of the Winds that come from them, but rather furl their Top-sails, haul up their Corws,^ and lye still till the Gust of Wind is past, except Necessity requires haste ; for the sudden Tornadoes do not continue long ; and besides often very violent and fierce, so that a Ship with her Sails loose, would be in danger to be over-set by them, or at least lose Masts or Yards, or have the Sails split ; besides the Consternation that all Men must needs be in at such a Time, especially if the Ship, by any unforeseen Accident, should prove unruly, as by the Mistake of the Man at Helm, or he that Conns,' or by her broaching to* against atl Endeavours, which often happens when a fierce Gust comes; which the' it docs not last long, yet would do much Damage in a ihon Time; and tho' all things should fall out well, yet the Benefit of it would not compensate the Danger: For 'tis much if a Ship sails a Mile before either the Wind dyea wholly away, or at least shifts about again to the * Tlw lo««M uU> on the fore and mftin ma MS- b-to n la Sr op inio the wind. 233 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS South. Nor arc we sure that these Winds will continue three Minutes before they shift; and sometimes they fly round faster than the Ship will, tho* the Helm lies for it; and all Seamen know the Danger of being taken a-back ^ in such Weather. But what has been spoken of the Southerly Winds, Calms, and Tornadoes is to be understood of the East-side of the Atlantick to as far West as the Longitude of 359 d. or thereabouts; for farther Westerly we find the Winds commonly at S. E. even in crossing the line, and a very brisk Gale ; 'tis for that Reason our experienced Guinea Commanders do keep to the Southward of the Line, till they are about that Longitude. Some run over nearer the American Shore before they cross the Line ; Our East- India Commanders do also cross the Line, coming from India near the American Coast, and find brisk Gales at S. E. all the times of the Year ; but going to the Indies, they steer away South, from the Island St. Jago, where they commonly water, and meet the Winds in that Longitude. But of this enough. The Winds near the Line in the Indian Ocean and South-Sea are different from this, yet there the Winds arc also Southerly, and therefore different from what they are farther off; for 2 d. or 3 d. on each side the Line, the Winds are commonly very uncertain, and oftentimes there are perfect Calms, or at least very small Winds and some Tornadoes in the East-Indian Sea. In the South-Seas, near and under the Line, the Winds are at South 130 Leagues off from the Shore, but how farther ofF I know not ; there the Winds are but small, yet constant, and the Weather clear from March till September ; but about Christmas there are Tornadoes ; yet in both the East-Indian Sea, and the South Sea, the Winds near or under the Line, are often at South ; yet these Winds do not blow above 2 or 3 d. to the North or South of the Line, except near some Land ; but in the Atlantick Sea, as I have said before, the South and South-West Winds do sometimes blow even to 10 or ^ So that the wind presses the sails against the masts and rigging. 234 OF THE GENERAL TRADE-WIND 12 d. Norih of the Line. And for the South Winds to blow constantly near the Line in the Atlantick, between Cape Verd in Africa, and C. Blanco in Brazil, is no wonderful thing, if a Man will but consider those Pro- montories that shoot out from the Continents on each side the Sea ; one on the North, the other on the South-side of the Equator, leaving but a small space clear for the Winds to blow in; where there is always a pretty brisk Gale, especially on the American side. And as within 2 or 3 d. of the Equator, it is moat subject to Calms and Tornadoes, and small faint Breezes in other Seas not pent up as this is. So this Sea, except just in the very Opening between both Promontories, is much more subject to it than any other, espeaally on the East-side; that is, from the Bite or the Inland Corner of the Coast of Guinea to 28 or 30 d. distance West : But this seems not to be altogether the Efiects of the Line, but owing partly to the nearness of the Land to the Line, which shoots out from the Bite of Guinea, even to Cape St. Anns, almost in a Parallel with the Equator (allowing for the Bays and Bendtngs) and this is 23 or 24 d. of Longitude, and not above 80 Leagues from the Line in some Places: So that this part of the Sea between the Coast of Guinea, and the Line or 2 d. South of it, lying, as it were, between the Land and the Line, n seldom free from bad Weather; especially from April to September ; but when the Sun is withdrawn towards the Tropick of Capricorn, then there is something better Weather there. And in the Sea under the Line between the African Promontory and the American, it is free from Tornadoes and Calms, and more subject to fair Weather and fresh Breezes. Therefore both our English and Dutch East- indii Ships, when outward-bound, endeavour to cross the LitK ts near as they can in the mid-Channel, between both KfWxnontories ; and although they meet the Winds some> ^pnd at S. S. E. or at S. S. W. or farther Easterly or ^Westerly; yet will they not run above a degree to the ^Etst, or a degree to the West of the mid-Channel, before ^Hicy uck again, for fear of meeting with the soaking ■ 235 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS Current on the West/ or Calms on the East-side ; either of which would be alike prejudicial to their Course. The Portuguese in their Voyages to Brazil, take the same method, and get to the South of the Line before they fall in with the Land, for fear of falling to leeward of Cape St. Augustine,^ for there are so many things which make that a difficult Cape to pass, that hardly any Man would try to do it, but at a distance. But our Guinea Ships do generally pass on to their Ports on the Coast of Guinea, at any time of the Year, without using such Methods; because their Business lies mostly on the North of the Line, where they always find a fair Westerly Wind. But in their returns from thence, they cross the Line, and run 3 or 4 d. to the Southward of it, where they meet the Wind between the S. S. E. and the S. S. W. and a brisk gale : with this Wind, they run away in the same parallel 35 or 36 d. before they cross the Line again to the Northward, which is about mid-way between the Extreams of both Promontories, there they find a brisk gale, which carries them to the West-Indies, or where they please. Some run West 40 d. before they cross the Line, and find strong Gales; whereas should they come from Old Callabar, or any other Place in the Bite,' on the North of the Line, and steer away West, thinking to gain their Passage the sooner because it is the nearest way, they would doubtless be mistaken, as many Men have been : For if they keep near the Line, they meet with great Calms ; and if they keep near the Land, they meet with Westerly Winds; and if they keep in the middle between both, they must of necessity meet with both Inconveniencies, as also with Tornadoes, especially in May, June, July and August. By which means some Ships, if they go any of these three ways now cautioned against, spend more time in going from the Bite to Cape Verd, than another Ship will * The Brazil current, setting to the SW. at the rate of nearly one mile an hour. * Santo Agostinho, near Pernambuco. * The Bight, or loop, of Benin. 236 W OF THE GENERAL TRADE-WIND PEkiif it cross the Line in the right Places, before-mentioned, Tn gotr^ to the Barbadocs. Sometimes unexperienced Guinea Masters in their return from thence, after they have cross 'd the Line from N. to S. and are in a fair way to gain a speedy Passage, will be so obstinate in their Opinions, after they have run 26, 28 or 30 d. West from Old Callabar (with a fair Wind) to Keer away W. by N. or W. N. W. it being the directest Coarse they can steer for Barbadoes, then they must of Necessity keep within a Degree of the Line, while they are running 2 or 300 Leagues, which may prove to be a long time in doing, because of the Uncertainty of the Winds near the Equator; therefore they that cross it near the Middle, between both Promontories, or near the American Coast, when they are minded to fall away to the Northward, steer away N. W. or N. W, by N. and so depress or raise a degree in running 28 Leagues at most; tbereforc (which is b^t) they are but a short time near the Ef]UStor: And besides, in thus crossing it in the middle between both Promontories, they seldom miss of a Wind : for the Wind in these Seas has no other Passage, but between these two Promontories. What I have said already on this Head, has been chicfiy of the Allantick, and of that too mostly about the Line, bccau% it is the most difficult Place to pass in going to the Southward. In other Seas, as in the East-India Sea, and the Great South-Sea there is no such Difficulty to pass jny way, because there is Sea-room enough, without coming into »uch Inconveniences as we meet with in the Atlantick ; and as to the Winds between the Line and the Tropicks, in the East-Indian Sea and the South-Sea, they arc in their ^^^titudes, as I said before, viz. in South Latitude, at Hd. S. E. and in North Lat. at E. N. E. blowing constantly ^Rcsh Breezes, especially in the South-Seas, even from ^hithin a Degree or two of the Line, on each side to the ^pTDpick, or to 30 Degrees of Lat. And this I may truly ^ViT> that neither the Atlantick nor the East-Indian Seas ^Vivc the true Trade-Winds so constant nor brisk at all ^■^mo of the Year, and in all Latitudes, as they arc here. ■ 237 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS For being once got in the Trade, I mean without the Verge of the coasting Trade-Wind, it blows a very brisk Gale all over the Ocean. Capt. Eaton experienced this in sailing from the Gallapagos' Islands to the Ladrones, in the latter end of the Year 1685. We had the like Experience, sailing from Cape Corientes to Guam the Year after (as appears by my Journal of that Run, in my " Voyage round the World," Chap. 10. Pag. 297.) And as for the Wind to the Southward of the Line, I had great Experience of it in my Ramble there with Captain Sharp ; and since that Capt. Davis, in his Return out of the South-Sea, had greater Experience, because he took his Departure from the Gallapagos Islands also, and steering W. S. W. from thence till he met the true Trade at E. S. E. he steered directly South, clear from the Line, till he got to the Southward of the Tropick of Capricorn, and so quite without the Trade. In the East-Indian Sea, between the Lat. of 30 d. and 4 degrees South of the Equator, the true Breeze is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. yet not so constant nor brisk as in the South-Seas; besides that part of it which lyes to the Northward of the Line, has not such a constant steady Breeze, but is more subject to Calms, and near the Shore to shifting Winds, according to the Seasons of the Year. 238 CHAP. II Of the constant coasting Trade- IVimis J Parttlhl »f Ikf Seuth-Pari of Africa and Pent. The Trade-fVindt iirw tvilh an acute Angle an any Ctail. The IVindi aieiit Angola anei in the Somth-Seas aliie ; as ah at Mexico and Guinea. The ff^mdi fhift n»t in Mmt Places. Sand blown /rum the Shore abaut Ctipt Blanco in Guinea. An Account of the Trade- Winds frov< ^L tkentf H Cafie L«goK ^y"~B~^HE Trade-winds which blow on any Coast, are I cither Constant or Shifting. I The Coasts that are subject to Constant Trade- •J^ winds, are the South-Coast of Africa and Peru, and P»n of the Coast of Mexico, and Part of Guinea. The South*part of Africa and Peru, are in one Lat. both Coasts trending North and South ; both on the West- tide of their Continents; both in South Lat. and tho' they do n<K )ye exactly parallel, by Reason of some Capes or Bendings in the Land, yet are the Winds much alike on both Coasts, all the Year long. On the Coast nf Angola the Winds are between the S, W. and S. And on the Coast of Peru, we reckon them between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. But this the Reader rauit take notice of: That the Trade-Winds that blow on »ny Coast, except the North Coast of Africa, whether they *Te constant, and blow all the Year, or whether they arc tiufiing Winds, do never blow right in on the Shore, nor <^t along Shore ; but go slanting, making an acute Angle "ibout 22 d^roes. Therefore as the Land trends more E«tcrly or Westerly from the North or South on these ^<*«s, 4o the Winds do alter accordingly ; as for example, ^ ■*««: the Land lies N. and S. the Wind would be at 139 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS S. S. W. but where the Land lies S. S. W. the Trade would be at S. W. But if the Land lies S. S. E. then the Wind would be at South. This is supposed of Coasts lying on the West-side of any Continent, and on the South-side of the Equator, as the two Coasts of Africa and Peru are ; but the North part of Africa has the Trade blowing ofF from the Shore, two or three Points. These Southerly Winds do blow constantly all the Year long, on both the Coasts of Peru and Africa; they are brisk, and blow farther off from the Coasts than any shifting Winds. On the Coast of Peru, these Winds blow 140 or 150 Leagues off Shore, before you can perceive them to alter : But then as you run farther off, so the Wind will come about more Easterly, and at about 200 Leagues distance it settles at E. S. E. which is the true Trade. Between Angola and Brazil the Winds are much as they are in the South-Seas, on the West-side of the Peruvian Coast ; only near the Line, within 4 degrees of it, in South Lat. the Wind holds in the S. S. W. or S. W. for 28 ot 30 d. of Longitude, and so it may in the same Lat. in the South-Seas, for ought I know ; for it was at South, as far as any of us were, which was 200 Leagues. As the Coasts of Peru and Angola have their constant Trade-winds, so has the Coast of Mexico and Guinea. And as the Coast of Peru lies North and South, so those lye nearer East and West. Accordingly to the Course of the General Trade, the Winds should be Easterly on these Coasts ; but here we meet with the quite contrary ; for from the Lat. of 10 d. North to 20 d. North on the Coast of Mexico, the Winds are constantly near the West on all the Coast, except check'd sometimes with Tornadoes, which do commonly rise against the Wind ; the same is observed on the Coast of Angola, where there are Tornadoes also : But the Coast of Peru is not subject to any, yet on that Coast there are sometimes Calms two or three Days together off of the Bay of Arica, between the Lat. of 16 and 23. In the Lat. of 19 you shall have Calms 30 or 40 Leagues off Shore, but not so far on either side the Bay, 240 JASTING TRADE-WINDS neither zrc such Calms usual on the Coasts of Angola and Mexico only after a Tornado, as is common in other Places. As the Coasts of Angola and Peru, do in most things run parallel each with other; so do the Coasts of Mexico and Guinea : And if 1 am not mistaken, the Winds on both these Coasts are much alike ; Both these Coasts do begin at the Bite or Bending of the Land, where the other two parallel Lands do end ; for as the Mexican Continent begins at or near Panama, which is eight or nine degrees North of the Equator ; so that part of Guinea, which I speak of, begins about Old Callabar, In about four or five Degrees of North Lat. The Land trends away Westerly from both these Places some hundreds of Leagues; and tho' not on one Point of the Compass, because of the small Points, Bays and Bending in the LJnd, yet the Winds that on more regular Shores, keep their constant Course, and blow in upon the Shore, about two Points from the Sea, do also here on the Guinea Coast, blow on the Shore from the West Quarter, and as :V.c Land lies pointing in on the Shore, even from Cape Mount to Old Callabar, which is above 400 Leagues; and ■■r.iz with such Constancy that the East-part of that Coast IS called the Leeward Coast; and the West-part the Wind- ward Coast; And yet this is so contrary to the general Opinion of Seamen, concerning the Course of the Winds, that nothing but their own Experience will convince them of the Truth of it; for thus they generally reason; Barba- does is the Easter-mosi of the Caribbe-ls lands, therefore : rest arc said to be Leeward of it, and so of any other bnd ; as indeed it usually holds true, because the Winds are commonly at East; but this Counter-Wind on c Coast of Guinea astonishes most Seamen that have seen jihing like what they meet with here. There are other sts where the Winds shift very little, as on the Coast of raccos, and the South-side of the Bay of Mexico, i.e. '■a the Bay of Campeachy, and all the Caribbe Islands. Indeed there may be sometimes some small Flurts of a Westerly Wind on these Coasts, but neither constant, ■atain, or lasting. vol- 11. 241 Q A DISCOURSE OF WINDS And indeed this was the great Stumbling-Block met with in running from the Gallapagos Islands Island Cocos, mentioned in my former Book, CI Pag. 136. But that part of Africa, which lies between Cape? in 14 d. North, and Cape Bayedore^ in 27, has coi Northerly Winds ; or between the N. and N. E. vci Gales ; therefore our Guinea Ships bound to Guinea to keep near that Shore, and oft-times make the And being to the Southward of Cape Blanco, which Lat. about 21, they are sometimes so troubled with which the Wind brings off Shore, that they are s< to see one another : Their Decks are also strewed and their Sails all red, as if they were tanned with that sticks to them, it being of a reddish Colour. From Cape Verd to Cape St. Anns, which is degrees North, the Trade is between the E. and S. Cape St. Anns, to Cape Palmas, in about 4 d. N< Trade is at S. W. from Cape Palmas to the Bite of which is at the bending of the Coast, the Wind is at: W. From this Bending the Land begins to turn the South ; and from thence to Cape Logos,* whu the South of the Line, the Trade is at S. W. as it 11 that Coast, even to 30 degrees South. This last Account 1 had from Mr. Canby, made many Voyages to Guinea. ^ Bojadore. * Cape Lopez. 242 CHAP. Ill Of the Coasting Triuie-lVinds that shift t C<*ff v/htTt iht IVindi ihift. Of the IVinds bttwern Gratia dt Din, and Capi La Vila. Of thou on the Coast of Bra2.ii : At Pamama : Ahoui Natal : And Cafie Corintn ; And the Red-Sra : Frm iht Gulfih ef Persia to CajK Cemorin. Of thi Momaom in tmdia : Thfir Benifil for lai/ing from P/au to Plau. Sta and Land Brentt irrviteatU fir the samt furpoit. By what helps hag Vtyagtt art madt in an eptn Sea. THE Coast where the Winds do usually shift, are some in the West-Indies, as that part of the Coast between Cape Gratia de Digs, and Cape La Vela chiefly : The Coast of Brazil ; the Bay of Panama in the Soiith-Scas, and all the Coast of the East-Indies, even from the River Natal, which is in the Lat. of 30 d. South, on the East-side of Africa, beyond the Cape of good Hope, to the North-East Parts of China, comprehending all the Bays between. The Islands also have their Annual Changes ; Of all these I shall treat in their order, beginning first with that Coast which lyes between Cape Gratia dc Dios and Cape La Vela : And 1 he rather begin with this part first, because this part of he Wc^t-Indies is all that is subject to change ; neither i the change altogether so orderly, or certain as the Monsoons in the East-Indies, or the shifting Winds on the Coast </ Brazil. The Common Trade-Wind on this Coast is between the N. E. and the East: This Trade blows constantly from March til! November, but is often check'd with Tornadoes in the Months of May, June, July, and August, especially benvcen the River of Etarien and Costarica ; but to Wind- 243 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS ward there is a more serene Air, and a brisker Wind : From October till March there are Westerly Winds, not constant, nor violent, but blowing moderately, sometimes two or three Days or a Week ; and then the Breeze may blow again as long. These Winds are most in December and January ; before and after these two Months the Trade- Wind is only checked a Day or two near the full or change of the Moon ; and when the Westerly Winds blow longest and strongest on the Coast, the Easterly Trade- Wind blows off at Sea, as at other Times. Near Cape La Vela, the true Trade blows within eight or ten Leagues off the Shore, when the Westerly Winds blow on the Coast, except in a strong North, which turns the Trade-Wind back, and on the Costarica, and between it and the River Darien, the Westerly Winds, as they are more frequent and lasting than towards Cape La Vela, so also they blow farther off at Sea, sometimes as far as to twenty or thirty Leagues from the Shore. Therefore Ships bound to Windward, if they have far to go, either take the Opportunity of the Westerly Wind- Season, or else go through the Gulph of Florida, and stretch away to the North, till they get into a variable Wind's way, and then run to the Eastward as far as they think convenient before they stretch to the Southward again. All that are bound from the West-Indies to Guinea must take this Course, if they sail from Jamaica (because they must pass through the Gulph of Florida) but from other Islands they may stretch away directly to the North, and use the same Method. But if Ships have only a small way to sail to Windward, they make use of the Sea and Land-Breezes, making no account of the Time of the Year. The Winds on the Coast of Brazil, are from September till March at E. N. E. and from March till September again they are at South. The Winds in the Bay of Panama are from September till March Easterly, and from March till September again they are at South and S. S. W. From the Cape of good Hope Eastwards, as far as tlie 244 i 1 i 5f the coasting trade-winds, etc. River Natal, which lies in 30 d. South Latitude, and Cape hcntes m Lat. of 24 degrees South, the Winds from lay to October are constantly from the West to the North Vest, within thirty Leagues of the Shore : They blow hardest at North West. When the Wind comes to North West, it 19 commonly stormy and tempestuous Weather, attended with much Rain, and then the Weather is cold and chilly. From October till March the Winds are Easterly from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. you have then very fair Weather: The E. N. E. Winds are pretty fresh, but the Winds at E. S. £. are small and faint, sometimes affording some drops of Rain. From Cape Corientes to the Red-Sea, from October till the middle of January the Winds are variable, but most times Northerly, and oft shifting round the Compass : The strongc« Winds are at North ; these are often very violent and stormy, and accompanied with much Rain, and thus it blom about the Island of Madagascar and the adjacent These Storms arc commonly preceeded by a great Sea out of the North. From January till May the Winds are at N- E, or N. N. E. fine fresh Gales and fair Weather. From May till October the Winds are Southerly, in July, Augiut, and September, there are great Calms in the Bay oi Pate and Melcnde, and a strong Current setting into the Bay: Therefore Ships that have occasion to pass this way in those three Months, ought to keep at least a hundred Leagues from the Coast to avoid being driven by the Current into the Bay ; for these Calms do sometimes last six Weeks, yet off at Sea, at the distance of a hundred Leagues the Winds are fresh at South. At the entrance into the Rcd-Sca near Cape Guardcfuer there are commonly ▼cry hard Gales and turbulent Weather, even when the Calms are so great in the Bay of Melende, and not above ~ 1 or twelve Leagues at Sea from the said Cape, there is 3 very fair Weather, and pretty fresh Gales. In the Rcd-Sca from May till October, the Winds are I at S. W. and the Current setting out strong, so that B u no entering into that Sea in those Months, except »45 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS you keep close to the South-shore, there you have Land- Winds, and an eddy Current. In the Months of September or October, the Wind shuffles about to the North, and at last settles at N. E. then comes fair Weather on this Coast ; and so continues till the Monsoon shifts, which is in April or May ; then it first takes one flurry at North, and from thence it veers to the East, and so about to the South, and there it settles. The Account of this Coast from the Cape of good Hope hither, I had from Captain Rogers. And as this hither-most part of the East-Indies, even from the Cape of good Hope to the Red-Sea, which Coast lies nearest N. E. and S. W. hath its shifting Seasons, so the other parts of India, from the Gulph of Persia to Cape Comorin, has its constant Annual change, and from Comorin, clear round the Bay of Bengal, the change is no less ; and even from thence, through the Streights of Malacca, and Eastwards as far as Japan, the shifting Trade-Winds do alternately succeed each other as duly as the Year comes about. It cannot be supposed that the Trade Wind in all these Places, should be exactly on one Point of the Compass : For I have already shown, that these Trade-Winds on any Coast do commonly blow slanting in on the Shore about two or three Points; therefore in Bays where the Land lies on several Rombs, the Winds must alter accordingly. Though that Rule does not hold altogether true in Bays that are deep, but is chiefly meant for a pretty streight Coast, which lies near alike ; allowing for Points of Land and small Coves, which make no alteration : But on the sides and in the bottom of large Bays, such as the Bay of Bengal, the Bay of Siam, &c. the Wind difl^ers much on one side of the Bay from what it does on the other ; and both sides difier from the constant Trade on the open Coast : yet all shift in the shifting Seasons, which are April and September, at one and the same Time, to their opposite Points : I mean on the open Coast, for in some Bays there is a little alteration from that general Rule. These shifting Winds in the East-Indies, are called 246 i OF THE COASTING TRADE-WINDS Monsoons; one is called the East-Monsoon, the other the Wcsi-Monsoon. The East-Monsoon sets in about September, and blows till April ; then ccaseth, and the Wcst-Monsoon takes place and blows til! September again. And both the East and West-Monsoons blow in their Seasons slanting in on the Coast, as is before described : The East-Monsoon brings fair Weather ; the West brings Torrudocs and Rain. For (as I said before in the first Chap, of the General Trade- Wind at Sea) when the Sun comes to the North of the Line then all Places North of the Equator, within the Tropicks, are troubled with Clouds and Rain, but when the Sun is in Southern Signs then the ^y is clear. And as most of the Trading-Countries in the East-Indies, especially those on the Main Continent, do lye between the Line and the Tropick of Cancer : So these Countries arc all subject to the Changes and Seasons already described. But the Islands lying under the Line, and to the South between the Line and the Tropick of Capricorn, have contrary Seasons to these. Yet do they change at the self-same Time. The difference berwecn the Monsoons on the North of the Line, and the Monsoons on the South of the Line is that in April, when the West-Monsoon sets in to the North of the Line, the S. S. W. Wind sets into the South of the Lat. and is called the S, S. W. Monsoon. And in September when the East Monsoon sets into the North of the Line, the N. N. E. Wind blows in South Lat. and is called the N. N. E. Monsoon. And whereas the West-Monsoon ts accompanied with Tornadoes and Rain in North Lat. the S. S. W. Monsoon, which blows at the same Tune in South Lat. is accompanied with- fair Weather. And as the East-Monsoon is attended with fair Weather in North Lat. thp N. N. E. Monsoon, which blows at the nme Time in South Lat. is attended with Tornadoes and rery bad Weather. And though these Winds do not shift exactly at one Time in all Years; yet September and April ire always accounted the turning Months, and do commonly [■rtldpate of both sorts of Winds. For these Monsoons do as constantly shift by turns, as the Year comes about. 247 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS And by means of this change of Wind, Ships have the benefit to sail from one part of India, with one Wind, and return with the contrary : So that most of the Naviga- tion in India depends on the Monsoons. And Ships do constantly wait for these Changes ; and the Merchants fit out to any Place according as the Season of the Year draws on : And wheresoever they go they certainly dispatch their Business so as to return back again with next or con- trary Monsoon : For here is no sailing to and from any Place, but with the Monsoon : One carries them out, the other brings them back. Neither do I know how it were possible for Merchants in these Parts to trade by Sea from one Country to another, were it not for these shifting Monsoons. For as I have said before, most of the trading Kingdoms in India do lye between the Line, and the Tropick of Cancer. And the Land lies so to the North, that Ships cannot go to the North of the Tropick, and by that means get into variable Winds way, as they may and do in the West-Indies, when they are bound far to the Eastward. Neither could it be any Advantage to stand ofF to Sea, as they may in the South-Sea; for that would be of little Moment, because they would then come so near the Line, that they would be always lyable to Tornadoes and Calms ; and should they cross the Line and run to the Southward of it, thinking that way to gain their Passage, it is likely they might succeed no better there : For that part of the Sea which lies to the Southward of the Line is open and free to the true Trade, which seldom fails : But indeed that Wind would carry them to the Southward quite beyond the Trade into a variable Winds-way. But the Sea is not open there, for Ships to pass so far to the Eastward as to gain their Ports. For our East-India Ships that are bound to Siam, Tunqueen, China, &c. cannot get thither but in the Season of the West-Monsoon, though they go directly from England ; and though, after they are past the Cape, they have the convenience to stretch to the Eastward, as far as the Land will permit, yet they cannot go so far as is con- venient before they will be obliged to steer down within 248 J OF THE COASTING TRADE-WINDS the Course of the Trade-Winds, which would obstruct their Passage, if they were as constant here as in other Places. And therefore if these Anniversary Monsoons did not constantly succeed each other. Ships could not pass but one way; they might sail to the Westward, but there they must lye up, or be three or four Years in their return from t pUcc which may be sailed in six Weeks, yet 1 say that to Places near each other. Ships may and do very often sail against the Monsoon, and that with success: For here are Sea and Land-Brcczes under the shore, and in many Places good Anchoring, by which means Ships may stop when they find the Current against them : But Voyages of a neat distance cannot be made only with Land and Sea- Winds without some other helps. In the West-Indies we have these helps of Land-winds and Sca-Breezes by which we sail from one Place to another, provided they are no great distance asunder, and perform our Voyages well enough; but when we are to Silt a great way to the Eastward against the Trade-wind, then we arc forced, as is said before, either to pass thro' the Gulph of Florida, if we are far to Leeward, or else to pus between the Islands, and so stretch away to the North- ward, till we arc clear out of the Trade, and so get our Longitude that way. So in the South-Seas also, and on the Coast of Guinea, the Coast of Brazil, and the Coast of Africa, between the Cape of good Hope and the Red-Sea, rhcrc arc Sea and Land-Breezes, which may be made use 'i( to sail against the Trade, if the Voyages be short : But when wc are to sail a great way against the Trade-wind, we must not wholly depend on the Sea and Land-Breezes; for then we should be a long Time in accomplishing such Voyages. In such Cases we have recourse to other helps, vuch as Providence has supplied these Seas with, which seems to be wanting in the East-Indies: as for example, in the South-Seas and on the Coast of Peru where the Southerly Winds blow constantly all the Year, there Ships ihat are bound to the Southward stretch off to the West- ward till they are out of the Coasting Trade-Wind, and there meet with the true Trade at E. S. E. with which they _ 249 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS sail as far as they please to the Southward, and then steer in for their Port. So on the Coast of Mexico, where the Coasting Trade is westerly, there they run ofF to Sea, till they meet the true E. N. E. Trade; and then stretch away to the Northward, as far as their Port; and Ships that come from the Phiiipines, bound for the Coast of Mexico, stretch away to the North, as far as 40 Degrees, to get a Wind to bring them on the Coast. Thus also all Ships bound to the East-Indies after they have past the Line in the Atlantick Ocean, stretch away to the Southward beyond the Trade, and then stand over to the Eastward, towards the Cape ; so in returning home, after they have crost the Line to the Northward, they steer away North, with the Wind at E. N. E. till they are to the Northward of the Trade-Wind, and then direct their Course Easterly. All Guinea Ships and West-India Ships do the same in their Returns : And this is the Benefit of an open Sea. But to return. The Monsoons among the East-India Islands that lie to the Southward of the Line, as I said before, are dther at N. N. E. or S. S. W. These also keep time, and sluft, as the Monsoons do, to the North of the Line, in the Months of April and September, but near the Line, as a Degree or two or each side, the Winds are not so constant. Indeed there they are so very uncertain, that I cannot be particular so as to give any true Account of them : Only this I know, that Calms are very frequent there, as also Tornadoes and sudden Gusts ; in which the Winds fly in a Moment quite round the Compass. 250 CHAP. IV Of Sea and Land-Breezes Htwr SM-BrtfXti ^iffir from eemman Tradi-Windi. The Time and Mamner «f their Rise j drid pariieularly at Jamaica. Of the Lmnd-Breexes. The Time and Manner sf their Rise : As on A* lithnau ff Darien and at Jamaica. The places mkerr these IVindt ihw tirengeit or slackest ; as at Capes and Head-Lands, »4*tp Bays, Lapints and Islands. Stal-Skin Bladders used instead rfBsri.L>ggi. SKA-Brcczes, generally speaking, arc no other than the Common Trade-Wind of the Coasts on which they blow, with this difFerence, that whereas all Trade-Winds, whether they are those that I call the general Trade-Winds at Sea, or coasting Trade- Winds, either constant or shifting, do blow as well by Night as by Day, with an equal briskness, except when Tornadoes happen ; so contranly Sea-Winds are only in the Day, and ceue in the Night; and as all Trade-Winds blow con- stantly near to one Point of the Compass, both where the constant Trade-Winds are, or where they shift; on the contrary, these Sea-Winds do differ from them in this, that in the Morning when they first spring up, they blow ccmmonly as the Trade-Winds on the Coast do, at or near the lamc Point of Compass; but about Mid-day they fly off two, three or four Points further from the Land, and •0 Wow almost right in on the Coast, especially in fair Weither ; for then the Sea-Breezes are truest ; as for L luuncc, on the Coast of Angola the Land lies almost B North and South, there the Trade-Wind is from the ^L ^ S. W. to the Sl W. the true Sca-Breezes near the Shore ^^•K tt W. by S. or W. S. W. and so of any other Coast. .H^ 1 lit A DISCOURSE OF WINDS These Sea-Breezes do commonly rise in the Morning about Nine a-Clock, sometimes sooner, sometimes later: they first approach the Shore so gently, as if they were afraid to come near it, and oft-times they make some faint Breathings, and as if not willing to offend, they make a halt, and seem ready to retire. I have waited many a time both Ashore to receive the Pleasure, and at Sea to take the Benefit of it. It comes in a fine, small, black Curie upon the Water, when as all the Sea between it and the Shore not yet reached by it, is as smooth and even as Glass in comparison ; in half an Hour's time after it has reached the Shore it fans pretty briskly, and so increaseth gradually till Twelve a-Clock, then it is commonly strongest, and lasts so till Two or Three a very brisk Gale ; about Twelve at Noon it also veers off to Sea two or three Points, or more in very fair Weather. After Three a-Clock it b^ins to die away again, and gradually withdraws its force till ill is spent, and about Five a-Clock, sooner or later, accordii^ as the Weather is, it is lulFd asleep, and comes no more till the next Morning. These Winds are as constantly expected as the Day in their proper Latitudes, and seldom fail but in the wet Season. On all Coasts of the Main, whether in the East or West-Indies, or Guinea, they rise in the Morning, and withdraw towards the Evening, yet Capes and Head-Lands have the greatest Benefit of them, where they arc highest, rise earlier, and blow later. Bays contrarily have the Disadvantage, for there they blow but faintly at best, and their continuance is but short. Islands that lie nearest East and West, have the Benefit of these Winds on both sides equally ; for if the Wind is at S. W. or S. W. and by S. on the South-side of any Island, then on the North-side it would be at N. W. or N. W. by N. i.e. in fair Weather; but if turbulent Weather, it would be E. S. E. on the South-^e, and E. N. E. on the other : But this true Sea-Breeze does not veer so far out, except only near the Shore, as about three or four Leagues distant ; for farther than that, you 252 W OF SEA AND LAND BREEZES Hnll find only the right Coasting Trade-Wind. This I naTe experienced in several Parts of the World, particularly U Jamaica ; about which 1 have made many Voyages, both on the North and the South-side, where I have experienced the Sea-Breczes very much to diiFer ; for on the South-side 1 have found the true Sea-Wind after Twelve a-Clock, and in very fair Weather at S, or S. S. E. though it sprung up in the Morning at E. S. E. or S, E. And on the North-side I have found the Sea-Breeze at N. or N. N. E. though it rose in the Morning at E. N. E. but whether there may be the like difference about smaller Islands, as at Barbadoes, &c. I cannot determine, though I am apt to believe there is not. So much for the Sea- Winds, next of the Land-Breezes, Land-Brcczcs are as remarkable as any Winds that 1 have yet treated of; they are quite contrary to the Sea-Brcczes ; for those blow right from the shore, but the Sea • Breeze right in upon the shore ; and as the Sea-Breczes do blow in the Day and rest in the Night ; so on the contrary, these do blow in the Night and rest io the Day, and so they do alternately succeed each other. For when the Sea-Breezes have performed their Offices of the Day, by breathing on their respective Coasts, they in the Evening do cither withdraw from the Coast, or lie down to rest : Then the Land-Winds, whose Office a to breathe in the Night, moved by the same Order of divine Impulse, do rouzc out of their private Recesses, and gently fan the Air till the next Morning; and then tfacir Task ends, and they leave the Stage. There cm be no proper time set when they do begin in the Evening, or when they retire in the Morning, for they do not keep to an Hour; but they commonly spring up between six and twelve in the Evening, and last tiU six. eight or ten in the Morning. They both come and fO away again earlier or later, according to the Weather, tile Season of the Year, or some accidental Cause from : Land : For on some Coasts they do rise earlier, blow , and renuin later than on other Coasts, as I shall ■ hereafter. 253 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS They are called Land- Winds, because they blow ofF shore contrary to the Sea-Breeze, which way soever the Coast lies : Yet I would not so be understood, as if these Winds are only found to breathe near the Shores of any Land, and not in the Inland Parts of such Countries remote from the Sea; for in my Travels I have found them in the very Heart of the Countries that I have passed through ; as particularly on the Isthmus of Darien, and the Island of Jamaica: Both which Places I have travelled over from Sea to Sea; yet because these arc but small Tracts of Land in comparison with the two main Bodies of Land of Mexico and Peru, and those vast Regions in Asia and Africa lying within the Tropicks, I cannot determine whether the Land- Winds arc there, as I have found them in my small Travels: therefcM^ I shall only confine this particular Discourse to these and other Places within my own Observations. I shall b^in first with the Isthmus of Darien ; there I have found the Land-Winds in the middle of the Country blowing all Night, and till ten or eleven a-Clock in the Morning, before I could perceive the Sea-Breeze to arise, and that not discernable many times, but by the flying of the Clouds, especially if I was in a Valley; and it was in Vallies that I did chiefly perceive the Land- Winds, which blew in some Places one way, in others contrary, or side-ways to that according as the Vallies lay pent up between the Mountains; and that without any respect to either the North or the South-Seas, but indeed near either side of the Land, they always bent their Course towards the nearest Sea, unless there was any Hill between them and the Sea, and then they took their Course along in the Vallies; but from both Shores, as well from the North as the South, they blow right-forth into the Sea. In the Island of Jamaica these Land-Winds are in the middle of the Country; also I have found them so, as I travelled from one side of the Island to the other, having lain two Nights by the way, as I had before observed them, when I liv'd at sixteen Miles walk, where I continued about six Months; but there and in other Islands the 254 OF SEA AND LAND WINDS ^Pand^rinds do blow towards the nearest Shores, and so fiwm thence off to Sea, whether the Shores lie East, West, North or South. These Winds blow off to Sea, a greater or less Distance, iccording as the Coast lies more or less exposed to the Sca-wtni^ : For in some Places we find them brisk three or four Leagues off shore ; in other Places not so many Miles ; and in some Places they scarce peep without the Rocks, or if they do sometimes in very fair Weather make a *illy out a Mile or two, they are not lasting, but suddenly vanish away, though yet there are every Night as fresh Land-winds ashore at those Places as in any other Part of the World. Places most remarkable for the fewest or faintest Land-winds, are those that lie most open to the Common Trade-winds, as the East-ends of any Islands where the Trade-winds do blow in upon the Shore, or the Head- Landa on Islands or Continents that are open to the Sa-Brcezc, especially where the Trade-wind blows down side-ways by the Coast ; for there such Head-Lands as -trctch farthest out to Sea are most exposed to Winds from •he Sea ; and have the less Benefit of the Land-Breezes. I shall give a few Instances of either. And first of all begin with the N. E. and S. E. Points of the Island of Jamaica: These Points are at the East-end of the Island, line is at the very Extreme of the North-side towards the hjst, the other on the South Extreme towards the same pMnt; at these two Places we seldom light of a Land- wind ; nor very often at the End of the Island between them, except near the Shore. For that reason the Sloop- men of Jamaica that Trade round the Island are com- monly put to their Trumps, when they come there in their Voyages; For if they meet no Land-wind, they are obliged lo Deal about by turning to Windward against the Sca-Brecze in the Day time ; they then curse these Points of Land, and arc foolishly apt to believe that some Dsmon fuunts there. And if tbcy arc two or three Days in beating about (as tometunes they arc] when they return to Port-Royal, they ^55 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS will talk as much of their Fatigues, as if they had been beating a Month to double the dpe of Good Hope, though indeed the Men are brisk enough, and manage their Sloops very well ; which also are generally very good Boats to sail on a Wind. I think they are the best small Trading-Boats in the King's Dominions. Point Pedro on the South-side of the Island, is another very bad Point to double, if a Ship come from the West- end of the Island ; This Point runs out far into the Sea, and is not only destitute of the Common Land-winds : But if there is any Current setting to Leeward, here the Sloop- men meet it. Therefore they are many times longer beating about it, than about the two former Points of the South- East and the North-East, and not without bestowing some Curses upon it. Nay some Captains of Privateers, when they have been beating about it, have stood close into the Point, and fired their Guns to kill the old Daemon that they say inhabits there to disturb poor Seamen. I have related these odd Passages to shew how ignorant Men are that cannot see the Reason of it. And because I am not willing to leave my Reader in the dark, I shall give a few Instances more on this Subject. The NcM-th-side of Jucatan, at the Entrance into the Bay of Campeachy, gives us an- other Instance of bad Land-winds; and commonly where the Land-winds are scanty, the Sea-Breezes are but in- different neither. This will partly appear by what I have observed of them on this Coast, between Cape Catoch, and Cape Condecedo, at the Entrance of the Bay of Cam- peachy, which two Places are about eighty Leagues distant ; for there the Land trends East and West. It is a streight Coast, and lies ail of it equally exposed to the Trade-wind, which is commonly there at E. N. E. To the W. of these Places the Sea and Land-winds do as duly succeed each other, as on any other Coast, but here they are each of them of a Bastard Kind ; for the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by E. which is no better than a Coast Trade-wind, and the Land- Wind is at E. S. E. or S. E. by E. whereas if the Winds were as true there as on other Coasts, the Sea- Breeze would be at N. N. E. sometimes at N. and the 256 OF SEA AND LAND BREEZES Land-Winds would be at S. S. E, and S, as they are indeed close under the Shore ; which if" they do at any time come off from, they arc very faint.^ The Land on this Coast a low and even, and the Land-Winds ashore are pretty brisk. The Capes on the Peruvian Coast in the South-Seas, will more fully make it appear, that Head-Lands do seldom affoni any Land-Winds. I shall only Instance in Cape Pasao, in Lat. 8 Minutes South, Cape St. Laurence, in Lat. I d. South, and Cape Blanco, in 3 d. South. I have pass'd by them all several Times and at different Seasons ; yet did never find any Land-winds there, though between these Places there are very good Land-winds. Therefore Ships that sail to the Southward against the Breeze, must beat it about by hard Labour, especially about Cape Blanco, for that lies more exposed than the other two: and if there is any Current, as commonly, the %>antards arc a long Time getting about, sometimes a Fortnight or three Weeks ; and when they have split their Stib, which are seldom very good, they run back to Guia- qotll to mend them again. We found it hard glutting about, iho' our Sails were good; and 1 think we could work our Ships better than the Spaniards are ever able to do in those Seas. I have already given several Instances of such Places, as have no Land-winds, or at least but very ordinary ones ; I shall next proceed in order to shew where the strongest or best Land-winds are met with; and then I shall speak of these Places where there blows a moderate and in- different Gale between both Extremes : That so any one n»ty ju(^ by the Lying of the Land, whether it may afford 1 good Land-wind or no. The briskest Land-winds arc commonly in deep Bays, m great Lakes within Land, and among great Ranges of bwids or small Keys that lye near the Shore : I shall give loHaoces of all these. And as for Bays, I shall first pitch On the Bay of Campeachy, which lies between Cape Con- ' Ms land-tnnd bm much force unless ihe Und from which it blo»s is ^■ttuBoas •ome miles Irom the sea. roL. II. 157 n A DISCOURSE OF WINDS decedo and the High-Land of St. Martin ; between both these Places the Land-winds are as brisk two or three Leagues ofF at Sea, as in any Place that I know. In the Cod or Middle of the Bay, the Land trends from East to West, there the Sea-breezes are at North, and the Land- winds at South ; they commonly begin to blow at seven or eight a Clock in the Evening, and continue till eight or nine the next Morning, in the dry Season especially. In that Bay there is an Island, caird by the English Bccf- Island from the Multitude of Bulls and Cows that inhabit it. The Smell of these wild Cattle is driven ofF to Sea, by the Land-winds so fresh, that by it Masters of Ships sailing in the Night on this Coast have known where they were, and have presently anchored that Night, and come into the Island of Trist the next Day ; whereas they would other- wise have past farther to the Westward quite out of their way, if they had not smelFd the strong Scent of these Cattle. So all the Bottom of the Bay of Mexico, even from the High-Land of St. Martin down to La Vera Cruz, and from thence Northerly towards the River Meschasipi^ affords good Land-winds and Sea-breezes. The Bay of Honduras also, and almost all the Coast between it and Cape La Vela, affords the like, allowing for the Capes and Points of Land, which lye between ; where it fails more or less, as the Points do lye more or less exposed to the Sea-Breezes. So in the South-Seas, the Bays of Panama, Guiaquil, Paita, &c. have their fresh Land-winds and Sea-breezes. But in some Places, as particularly at Paita, the Land-winds do not spring up till twelve a Clock in the Night, but then are always very fresh, and last till seven or eight the next Morning; and they are constant all the Year long; Whereas in the Bay of Panama, and also in all the Bayi and Coasts of the other, or North-side of America already described, they are not so constant in the wet Season as th^ are in the dry. The Bay of Campeachy will also afford us Instances of ^ Mississipi. 258 OF SEA AND LAND BREEZES the Land-winds ihat blow in Lagunes : As for Instance, ihc Lsgune of Trist, which is about nine or ten Leagues long and three broad, is barricadoed from the Sea by the IsUnd of Trist. There the Land-winds blow in the dry Season from five or six a Clock in the Evening, till nine or ten in the Morning. There are two other Lagunes lying within that, and paned from it by low Mangrove-Land : there the Land-winds arc fresher and the Sca-Breeze duller, and of a less Continuance, than in the Lagune of Trist. Nay, sometimes the Land-wind blows all Day ; so in the Lagune of Maracabo to Windward of Cape Alta Vela, the Land-winds are very fresh and lasting. The like may be said of the Lagune of Venizueila or Comana. Sometimes in the fore- mentioned Lagunes, the Land- winds do blow for three or four Days and Nights together, scarce suffering the Sea-Breeze to breathe there ; though ai the same time the Sea-Breeze may blow fresh out at Sea: and if the Sea-Brccze at such times should make a bold Sally into these Lagunes, it would be but of a Short Continuance. On the other Hand at Capes and Head- lands more exposed to Sea-Breezes, the Land-winds are fhycr of coming there, than the Sea-winds are into Lagunes. Neitbcr may we forget the Harbour of Jamaica, for there are very good Land-winds. It is compassed in on one side ' 'i a long Neck of Sand, and many small Islands at the uth of It, and within there is a pretty deep Lake, in Uch are constant Sea and Land-winds, by which the f-men run with full sail, both to Legany ' or Passage t,* from the Town and back again. They go away the Sca-Breeze, and return with the Land-wind. cfbrc Passengers that have occasion to go either way, w»t for the coming of these Winds, except their Business nqoircs haste : for then they are rowed against the Breeze ; 1 tho' the Land-winds do sometimes fail or come very , yet the Wherries seldom stay beyond their constant s of Kvcn or eight a Clock, and sometimes the Land- i do come by three or four, but when they come so ' Tb Ui£ wot oC the harbour, on ihe westeni aide of H unt Bay . A DISCOURSE OF WINDS early it is commonly after a Tornado from the Land. This may suffice as to the Land-winds in Lakes or Bays. As to what may be spoken concerning the Land-winds among Islands, I shall only mention two Places, both of them in the West-Indies ; the first are the Keys of Cuba, which are Abundance of small Islands bordering on the South-side of Cuba, reaching in length from East to West, or near those Points as the Island lies, about seventy Leagues ; and in some Places reaching near twenty Leagues from the said Island. Among these Islands, even from the outermost of them, quite home to Cuba, there are very brisk Land-winds. They spring up early in the Evening, and blow late in the Morning. The Jamaica Turtlers visit these Keys with good Success for Turtle all the Year long, and from thence bring most of their Turtle wherewith the Market of Port-Royal is served. The other Islands I shall mention are the Sambaloe Islands betwixt Cape Samblass^ and Golden Island, tho' they are not so large a Rai^e as the Keys of Cuba, yet do they afford very good Land- winds ; near as good as the Keys of Cuba do. And thus much for the Places where the best as well as where the scantiest or faintest Land-winds are found. I shall next give some Instances of the Medium between both Extremes. I have already shown that Capes and such Head-Lands as lye out farthest from the rest of the Shore, are thereby most exposed to the Sea- Winds, and consequently the Land-winds are there much fainter than in other PlaceSi especially in deep Bays or Lagunes within Land, or among Islands and small Keys near the Land : All which is no more than my own Experience has taught me. I shall nofw shew how the Land-winds blow on Coasts that do lye more level. As all Coasts have their Points and Bendings, so accordingly the Land-winds are fresher or fainter, as yoa come either towards these Bendings or towards intermitting Points or Head-Lands. I shall give an Instance of this by shewing how the Winds are on the Coast of Curaccos. It is as streight a ^ San Bias. 260 ■ OF SEA AND LAND BREEZES Vborc as I can pitch on, yet full of small Bays, divided from each other by a like number of Ridges of High-Land, that shoot forth their Heads a little way without the Bays on each side. There in the Night or Morning, while the Land-wind blows, we find fresh Gales out of the Bays : but when we come abreast of the Head-Lands, we find it calm ; yet see the Breeze curling on the Water on both 9ides of us, and sometimes get a Spurt of it to help us forward ; and having recovered the Wind out of the next Bay, we pass by the Mouth of it presently, till we come to the next Head ; and there we lye becalmed as before. These Bays are not above half a Mile or a Mile wide ; neither are the Heads much wider; but these Heads of the Ridges lying in between the Bays, have steep Cliffs against the Sea; and where-ever I have met the like steep Qiflfs against the Sea, I have seldom found any Land-winds. But in all other Places where the Bays strike deeper into the Land, there we find the Land-winds more lasting and strong; and where the Points are farther out, there are still the less Land-winds, and the Brisker Sea-Breezes. For the Capes and unaltcr Points on all Shores seem to be so many Barricadoes to break off the Violence of the Sca- Brcczes; for this we always find when we are turning to Windward being to Leeward of a Cape, that the Breeze is moderate, especially if we keep very near the Shore ; but when once we come within a Mile, more or less of the Cape and stand off to Sea, as soon as we get without it, wc 6nd such a huffing Breeze, that sometimes we are not able to ply against it, but in the Night we find a fresh Land- wind to Leeward ; tho' when wc come to the Cape we find ii calm ; or perhaps sometimes meet with a Sea-wind. The l.ud-Brcezcs on the Coast of Guinea between Cape St. .\ans and Cape Palmas, (mentioned in the second Chapter rfthis Discourse), arc at E. blowing brisk four Leagues off Short: the Sea-winds there are at S. W. The Land-winds ot the Coast of Angola are at E. N. E. the Sea-winds at I W. S. W, these arc very true Winds of both kinds, I The I^nd-winds on the Coast of Peru and Mexico in I Ac South-Seas, arc in most Places right off from the Shore, 261 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS else the Fisher-men could never go out to Sea, as they do, on Bark-Loggs. And as the Land-winds are true there, so are the Sea-Breezes also ; for with the Land-wind they go out to fish, and return in again with the Sea-winds. In some Places they use Seals-Skins instead of Bark-Loggs; they are made so tight that no Bladder is tighter. To these they have long Necks like the Neck of a Bladder, into which they put a Pipe and blow them up as we do Bladders ; two of these being fastned together, a Man sets a-stride them, having one before and the other behind him ; and so sits firmer than in a Trooper's Saddle. His Paddle is like a Quarter-staff, with a broad Blade at each end; with this he strikes the Sea back, first on one side and then on the other, with each end of his Paddle, and so gives himself fresh way through the Water. In the East-Indies also there are true Sea-Breezes, as well on the Islands, as on the Main. On Islands, as at Bantam in the Island Java, and at Achin in the Island Sumatra, and in many Places on the Island Mindanao: And on the Main also, as particularly at Fort St. George on the Coast Coromandel. There the Land-winds blow right off from the Shore, and the Sea-winds right in ; but sometimes they come slanting in ; and about Christmas they blow from the N. E. or N. N. E. I found them so when I came on the Coast, and being advised of it by Mr. Coventry, in whose Sloop I then was, I fell in with the Land ten or twelve Leagues to the Northward of the Fort, and had a brisk Northerly Sea-wind to bring me into the Road. I think these Instances are enough to shew how these Land-winds do usually blow in most parts of the World ; should I be very particular, 'tis not a larger Treatise than I intend this to be, would hold a quarter-part of it. But I have been more particular in the West-Indies and South- Seas, because these Land-winds are of more use there than in the East-Indies : For though sometimes Men in the East-Indies do turn against the Monsoons, yet they do generally tarry for them before they budge. Indeed these Winds are an extraordinary Blessing to 262 OF SEA AND LAND BREEZES those that use the Sea in any part of the Worid, within the Tpopicks ; for as the constant Trade-winds do blow, there could be no sailing in these Seas : But by the Help of the Sea and Land-Breezes, Ships will sail 2 or 300 Leagues; as particularly from Jamaica, to the Lagune of Trist, in the Bay of Campeachy ; and then back again, all against the Trade-wind ; And 1 think this is one of the longest Voy^es that is used of this kind. If any of our Jamaica Sloops do go to Trist, and design to carry their Wood to Curasao, then they put through the Gulph of Florida. The Spaniards also that come from any part of the Bay of Mexico, and are bound to any Place to Windward of the Itdand Cuba, are wont to put through the Gulph, and to stretch away to the Northward, till they come clear of the Trade, and then stand away as far as they please to the Han-ward ; This is also the usual way from Jamaica to Barbadoes, thnugh sometimes they turn up by the Caribbee Islands, only taking the Benefit of these Sea and Land- winds. So also Ships may and do pass from Portobello to Carthagcna, or to St. Martha, or to any other Place, by the help of these Breezes, if the distance is not too far. So by takmg the Advantage of these Winds, Sloops in the West- Indies sail clear round the Islands, or to any part of them, in a short time. In the South Seas also the Spaniards in their Voyages from Panama to Lima, by taking the Advantage of these Winds, do sail as high as Cape Blanco; but in all their Voyages to the Southward of that Cape, they stand quite off to Sea into the Trade. Thus you see the Use and Advantage of them. The Seamen that sail in Sloops or other small Vessels \n the West-Indies, do know very well when they shall meet a brisk Land-wind, by the Fogs that hang over the land before Night ; for it is a certain sign of a good Land- wind, to see a thick Fog lye still and quiet, like Smoak over the Land, not stirring any way; and we look out for iuch Sens when wc are plying to Windward. For if we sec no Fog over the land, ihc Land-wind will be but faint ind short that Night. These Signs arc to be observed 263 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS chiefly in fair Weather : for in the wet Season Fogs do hang over the Land all the Day, and it may be neither Land-wind nor Sea-Breeze stirring. If in the Afternoon also in fair Weather, we see a Tornado over the Land, it commonly sends us forth a fresh Land-wind. These Land-winds are very cold, and though the Sca- Breezes are always much stronger, yet these are colder by far. The Sea-Breezes indeed are very comfortable and refreshing ; for the hottest Time in all the Day is about nine, ten or eleven a Clock in the Morning, in the Interval between both Breezes : For then it is commonly calm, and then People pant for Breath, especially if it is late before the Sea-Breeze comes, but afterwards the Breeze allays the Heat. However, in the Evening again after the Sea- Breeze is spent, it is very hot till the Land-wind springs up, which is sometimes not till twelve a Clock or after. For this Reason Men when they go to Bed uncloath themselves and lye without any thing over them : Nay, the ordinary sort of People spread Mats at their Doors, or else in their Yards, in Jamaica, and lye down to sleep in the open Air. In the East-Indies at Fort St. George, also Men take their Cotts or little Field-Beds, and put them into the Yards, and go to sleep in the Air : And Seamen aboard Ships in these hot Countries lye on the Deck, till the Land- wind comes. The Inhabitants of Jamaica or Fort St. George, have somewhat to cover themselves when the Land-Wind comes, beside a Pillow on their Breast, or between their Arms* But Seamen who have wrought hard all Day lye naked and exposed to the Air, it may be all Night long, before they awake, without any Covering, especially if they have had their Dose of Punch. But next Morning they are scarce able to budge, being stiff with cold, that brings them to Fluxes, and that to their Graves ; and this is the Fate of many stout and brave Seamen : and it is a great Pity that Masters of Ships have so little Regard for their Men, as not by some good Orders, to prohibit this dangerous Custom of lying abroad and naked in the Nights. 264 I ^ CHAP. V Of Land-mndi art J Sea- Breezes, peculiar lo some Coasts at some particular Seasons of the Tear ; as also of some IVinds thai produce strange Effects Of tkt SuMmaMnta'IVtndi In thi Bay of Camp*achy. Of the IVindi fttvBar l» ihr Ceaiti of Carthagtna, lyirtds on the Mexican Ctaili, laltd Ptpagaioi. Othtri on the Coast of Coromandil, all'd Terrtntf : The same about Malabar^ but at a different Smmii .- At alsa in the Persian Gulph. And of the Hermatans n th Cms! of Guinea. I SHALL begin with the Summasenta- Winds, as they are called, which blow in the Bay of Campeachy. These arc Winds that come in the Months of February, March and April, and they blow only in that Bay between the High-Land of St. Martin and Cape Condecedo ; which Places arc about r20 Leagues asunder. They are, properly speaking, neither Sca-Breezes nor true Land-winds, yet in Rcsp«ct of ihcir blowing in some Measure from the Shore, they are in that somewhat of kin to the Land-winds. These Winds are commonly at E. S. E. in the Cod or Middle of the Bay where the Land lies E. and W. and the true Land-winds there are at S. S. E. but from thence towards Cape Condecedo, the Land trends away N. E. and N. N. E- and N. So that they become Land-winds there respecting the Land from whence they blow ; but then they diflfer both from Sea and Land-Breczcs tn Respect to their Duration : For these Summasenta- Winds blow three or four Days, sometimes a Week, both Night and Day before they cease. They are commonly dry Winds and J blow very fresh, and Ships that go from Trist with Log- Wood at the Time when these Winds blow, will be at 26s A DISCOURSE OF WINDS Cape Condecedo in three or four Days ; whereas if they go at any other Time, it will take up eight or ten Days, tho' seldom more than that : For here are good Land-winds and Sea-Breezes at other times. These Winds are commonly colder than the Sea*winds, though not so cold as the Land-winds, yet stronger than either. I never could perceive that these Winds did make any Alteration on our Bodies different from other Winds. But the Tides when these Winds blow on that Coast, are very small especially in the Lagunes of Trist : so that the Logwood-Barks that bring the Wood aboard of the Ships, are then forced to lye still for want of Water to float them over some Flats in the Lagunes. On the Coast of Carthagena there are a peculiar sort of Winds that blow in the Months of April, May and June so very fierce, that Ships are not able to ply to Windward on that Coast while these Winds last. These Winds blow about forty or fifty Leagues to Windward of Carthagena Town, and about ten to Leeward of it. They are very fierce from the Middle of the Channel between it and Hispaniola, and so continue almost to the Coast of Carthagena. Tho* they are sometimes a little fainter within two or three Leagues of the Shore, especially Mornings and Evenings. They commonly rise in the Morning before Day, sometimes at 3 or 4 a Clock, and so continue till 9, 10 or II at Night, and thus they will blow 10 or 11 Days together very fiercely. At this time the Land-winds besides their short Continuance are very faint and blow but a little way off Shore : So that from i o or 1 1 at Night till 3 in the Morning *tis quite calm and not one Breath of Wind from a League distant off the Shore ; tho* 3 or 4 further off you'll find the Breeze, and nearer a small Land-wind. These Winds are at E. N. E. as the common Trade is; whereas the Sea-Breezes are at N. E. by N. or N. N. E. While these fierce Winds stay, the Sky is commonly clear without any Cloud to be seen; tho* doubtless 'tis imperceptibly hazy, for then the Sun does not give a true black Shade on the Ground, but very faint and dusky. The Horizon too looks very dusky, thick and hazy, and 266 OF WINDS PECULIAR TO SOME COASTS while the Sun is near the Horizon, either in the Morning or Kvcning, it looks very red. Sometimes, tho' but seldom, when these Winds blow the Sky is over-cast with small Clouds, which afford some drizling small Rain. But though these Winds arc so fierce on the Coast of Carthagena, yet both to Windward and to Leeward at the distances before- mentioned, the Breezes blow moderate as at other Times. For the Sea and Land-winds do there keep their constant and regular Courses. Neither are the Coasts of Hispaniola or Jamaica troubled with these fierce Winds, any nearer than half Channel over as was said before. It has not been my Fortune to have been on this Coast when these Winds have blown, yet I have had the Relation of it so often, and from so many Persons, that I am very Well satbfied of the Truth of it: Nay, it is so generally known among the Jamaica Seamen and Privateers that they call a Talkative Person in Derision, a Carthagenc-Breeze. I remember two or three Men that went by that Name, and I knew them by no other, tho' I was in the same Ship with them several Months. Some of our English Frigots that have been sent to Jamaica have experienced these Breezes when the Governour hu sent ihem upon Business to that Coast : For plying between PoriobcIIo and Carthagena, when they have been within lO Leagues of Carthagena, they have met with the Sea-Breeze bo strong that they have been forced to riff their Topsail, which even then they could not maintain, but have been obliged to furl it quite up ; and so with only their lower Sails, which sometimes they have been forced to riff too, have been beating eight or ten Days, to get mly so many Leagues ; which tho' at last they have acme, yet has it been with much Trouble, and not without Damage to their Sails and Rigging- Neither can I foi^et a Squadron of French Frigots, commanded by the Count dc Esirecs, that came to Jamaica, and demanded leave of the Governour to wood and water there ; which because !t seemed strange that they should want in coming only from Petit Guavas; it was demanded of them why they came from thence so ill provided ? They said they went 267 L A DISCOURSE OF WINDS from Petit Guavas over to the Coast of Carthagena, with a Design to have plyed to Wind-ward under that Shore, but met the Breezes so hard on the Coast, that they were not able to hold up their sides against it, and for that Reason stood back again towards Petit Guavas ; but not being able to fetch it, therefore they came to wood and water at Jamaica, designing to go from thence thro* the Gulph : And tho* the Pilots of Jamaica did all conclude that the Breeze-time was past by more than a Month, yet the Governour gave them leave to wood and water at Blewfields Bay, and sent one Mr. Stone to be their IHlot thither. This was in 1679 and in one of our Summer Months, but I can't tell which, tho' I was there. In the South-Seas on the Mexican Coast, between Cape Blanco in the Lat. of 9 D. 56 M. North and Realeja, in Lat. II North, which two Places are about 80 L^igues Distance, there are Winds which blow only in the Months of May, June, and July, calFd by the Spaniards Popoguos. They blow Night and Day without Intermission, sometimes 3 or 4 Days or a Week tc^ether. They are very Inisk Winds, but not violent : I have been in one of them when we went from Caldera Bay, bound to Realeja mentioned in my " Voyage round the World," Chap. 5, Pag. 144, which blew at North. In the East-Indies on the Coast of Coromandel, there are Winds call'd by the Portuguese Terrenos, because they blow from the Land. These are not those Land-Winck that I have already treated of ; for these blow only in June, July and August, and are in several respects quite contrary to them. For whereas the true Land- Winds blow only in the Night, including Evenings and Mornings; on the contrary, these blow 3 or 4 Days without intermis»on; nay sometimes a Week or 10 Days together : and as the true Nocturnal Land-Winds are very cold, on the contrary these are the hottest of all Winds I ever heard of : They come with hot Blooms, such as I have mentioned in my "Voyage round the World," Chap. 20, Pag. 511. These Winds are at West, and they blow only in the Months of June, July and August, which is the West Monsoon-Season, 268 ■J OF WINDS PECULIAR TO SOME COASTS tho' the proper Monsoon then on this Coast is S. W. When these hot Winds come, the better sort of People at Fort St. George keep close: They also shut up their Windows and Doors to keep them out ; and I have heard Gentlemen that lived there say, that when they have been thus shut up within Doors, they have been sensible when the Wind Rifled by the Change they have feit in their Bodies. And notwithstanding that these Winds are so hot, yet the In- habiunts don't sweat while they last, for their Skins are h«rd and rough, as if they had been parched by the Fire, especially their Faces and Hands, yet does it not make them sick. The Sands which are raised by these Winds arc a great annoyance to those whose business lyes abroad, and who can't keep their Houses. For many times they wheel ibout and raise the Sands so thick, that it flies like smoak :n Peoples Eyes; and the Ships also that lye in the road at that time have their Decks covered with this Sand. On ihc Coast of Malabar they have of these sorts of Winds also, but not at the same time of the Year. For as these on the Coast of Coromandel blow in the months of June, July and August, when the West Monsoon reigns ; on the contrary on the Malabar Coast they blow in the Months of December, January and February, when the Eist or North-East Monsoon blows : for then the Easterly Wind, which is then the true Monsoon, comes from over the Land of this Coast; This being the West-side, as the Ca«st of Coromandel is the East-side of this long East- lodian Promontory. The Persian Gulph is as remarkable for these hot Winds as either of the former; they come there in the Months of June, July and August in the West Monsoon time ; and the heal there by all Accounts does by far exceed that on the other two Coasts. The European Merchants that are imployed in the Ports within the King of Persia's Dominions, do leave their Coast, Habitations and Business there, during these hot Months, and spend their time at Ispahan till the Air is man agreeable to thdr Bodies; but their Servants must mdure it. And if any Ships arc there, then the Seamen 369 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS also must do as well as they can. *Tis reported the Com- manders do keep Bathing-Troughs full of Water to lye and wallow in, and hide their Bodies from the noisom hot Blooms. I was never in any of these hot Winds, for I went from Fort St. George before they came on the Coast. On the Coast of Guinea there are a particular Sort of Land-winds, which are very remarkable; not for thdr Heat, as those last-mentioned, but for their exceeding Cold and searching Nature. They are called Harmatans. I have had an Account of them from several who have traded to Guinea; but more especially from a very sensible and experienced Gentleman, Mr. Greenhill, Commissioner of His Majesty's Navy at Portsmouth ; who upon my Request, was pleased to send me the following Account : which the Reader cannot have better than in his own Words. Where together with the Harmatans, he gives an Account also of all the Winds on that Coast. Mr. Gr££NHill*s Letter. Sir, I HAVE been very ill since my return Home with the Gout ; so that I have not been capable of answering your Expectation : But being a little better recovered, I shall make as good a Return to your Enquiry of the Harmatans on the Coast of Guinea, as my Circumstances will permit. The usual time of their blowing is between the latter part of December, and the beginning of February; before and beyond which Seasons, they never exceed. They are of so very cold, sharp and piercing a Nature, that the Seams of the Floors of our Chambers and the Sides and Decks of our Ships (as far as they are above Water) will open so wide, as that with Facility you may put a Caullung- Iron a considerable way into them ; in which Condition they continue so long as the Harmatan blows, (which is sometimes two or three, and very rarely five Days, which is the very utmost I ever observed or heard of) and when they are gone, they close again and are as tight as if it never had been. The Natives themselves and all Persons who 270 p OF WINDS PECTJLTAR TO SOME COASTS Inhabit those parts (during that short Season) to prevent their pernicious Effects, are obliged to confine themselves within Doors; where they endeavour their own security, by rendering their Habitations as close and impenetrable as possible: Neither will they once stir abroad, unless induced thereto by a more than ordinary Occasion. It is as de- simctivc to the Cattle also ; whose safe Guard consists in their Proprietors Care, who against this Season ought to provide some such like place for them : Otherwise they must expect but a pitiful Account when the Season is over; for it most certainly destroys them, and that in a very short time. This I accidentally experimented by exposing a couple of Gouts to the Asperity thereof; which in four Hours Space or thereabouts, were depriv'd of Life. Nay we our ■elves (unless assisted by the like Convenicncy and the benefit of some sweet Oyls to correct the Air) cannot fetch our Breath so freely as at other times; but are almost suffocated with too frequent and Acid Respirations. They gencnliy blow between the E. and E. N. E. to the North- ward of which they never exceed, being the most settled and steddy (but fresh) Gales 1 ever observed ; coming without Thunder, Lightning or Rain ; but close gloomy Weather; the Sun not shining all the time: And when they expire, the Trade-wind (which constantly blows on that Coast at W. S. W. and S. W.) returns with the accus- tomary scasonablcncss of Weather. The Coast of Africa from Cape Palmas to Cape Formasa, lies E. and E. by N. and near those Points the Latkd Breezes blow on that Coast, which commonly begin about seven in the Evening, and continue all Night, till near that time the next Morning: During which interval. We are trimblcd with stinking l-t^s and Mists off Shore, which by return of the Sca-Breezes upon the opposite Points are all driven away ; and we have the benefit of them, in a curious fresh Gale, till about 5 in the After- aooB. And here let me note it for a general Observation, I That in these and all other Places within the Tropicks (as 271 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS far as ever I took Notice) the Wind is drawn by the Land. For if an Island or Head-Land, were inclining to a circular Form, the Sea and Land-Breezes fall in diametrically opposite to that part where you are. So that if you are on the South-side, the Sea-Breeze shall be at South, and the Land-Breeze (when it comes in its Season) at North. In getting on the Coast, we indeavour to fall in with Cape Mount or Cape Miserada, which is about 1 8 Leagues to the E. S. Eastward thereof ; and after that wc double Cape Palmas (whence as aforesaid, the Land trends away E. by N.) the Current near the shore sets upon that Pcnnt down into the Bite. But in getting off, we as much attempt (if possible) to lay hold of St. Thomas ; and thence to run to the Southward of the Line, perhaps 3 or 4 Degrees ; for the further Southerly we go, the stroi^^er we find the Gales, and more beneficial for getting ofF the African Coast ; but those who keep to the Northward thereof, generally meet with more Calms ; and consequently longer Voyages ensue. In or about those Latitudes we continue, till we are got between 25 and 30 Degrees to the Westward of Cape Lopez de Gonsalvo, and then wc cross again to go either for England or the West-Indies. But by the way let me observe to you, that when once we arc to the Westward of the said Cape, and in South Latitude, the Current sets Northerly, and the Wind to 20 Degrees of Latitude, is at E. S. E. as (to the like number of Degrees) on the North-side of the Line it blows at E. N. E. Neither did I ever observe any Mutation of the Cur- rents, unless in the Tornado-Season, when during their blowing, they commonly set to Wind-ward ; tho* perhaps the Moon upon Full and Change, may have the like Influence there, as in other Places ; but I never took any particular notice thereof. The said Tornadoes usually come in the Beginning of April, and seldom relinquish the Gold Coast till July commences, and with frequent Visits make us sensible of their Qualities. We have sometimes three or four in a day ; but then their Continuance is but short ; perhaps not above two Hours, and the Strength or Fury (it may be) 272 OF WINDS PECULIAR TO SOME COASTS About a quarter or half an Hour ; but accompanied with prodigious Thunder, Lightning and Rain ; and the Violence of the Wind so extraordinary, as that it has some- times rolled up the Lead wherewith the Houses are cover 'd, ms close and compactly, as possible it could be done by the An of Man. The Name implies a Variety of Winds : But the Strength of ihem is generally at S. E. and by Ships thai arc bound off the Coast, they are made use of to get lo Windward, I shall conclude with that most worthy Observation of the Season wherein the Rains begin ; which on the Gold Coast is about the lOth of April and this may be generally remarked, from 13 d. N. to 15 d. South Latitude, that they follow the Sun within 5 or 6 d. And so proceed with him till he has touched the Tropick, and returns to the like Station again. This I shall illustrate by the following FLxample, viz. Cape Corso Castle lies in 4 d. 55 North. .■\bout the 10th of April the Sun has near 12 degrees N. Oecltnation. At that Time the Rains begin, and continue with the Inhabitants of that Place, untill he has performed his Course to the greatest Obliquity from off the Equator, and rcturocd to the tike Position South. The same I suppose may be observed, and understood of other Places •tthin the Tropicks. The Variation (of which in the Year 1680, I made frequent Observations) was 2d. 14 m. Westerly : And it generally flows at the aforesaid place S. S. E. and N. N. W. upon the Full and Change. The Water rising upon Spring itdes about six or seven Foot up and down. I remain. Sir. Your Humble Servant, Henry Greenhill. '-j-'r yb, 1698. Upon the Receipt of this from the Gentleman aforesaid, I Wrote to him again, to have his Opinion about what I ■We said conccmmg the particular Longitude, in which 1^ hest to cross the Line, in going from Guinea to the »ot. u. 273 s A DISCOURSE OF WINDS West-Indies : And so much of his Answer as concerns this Matter was in these Words. Mr. Greenhill's second Letter. Sir, I DO not dissent from Crossing the Line at 35 or 36 d. Longitude, Westward of Cape Lopes, and it may as well be done at 30 provided the Breezes continue fresh. But if we have but little Winds, we generally run on the South-side of the Line, till we reach the distance West : And then crossing we steer away West North West, and West by North for Barbadoes. And this you may observe, (as I have already hinted to you,) that the further we keep to the Southward of the Line, the fresher, and consequently more advantageous the Breezes are. I remain Sir, Your obliged Friend, And most humble Servant, Henry Greenhill. And here I judge it will not be unacceptable to the Reader to insert two other Letters from an Experienced Captain of a Ship, because they have a general Relation to the Subject I am now upon, as well as to the Coast of Guinea in particular. Part of two Letters from Captain John Covant ofPorthurj^ t$ a Gentleman in London. LETTER I Honoured Sir, I HAVE sent Mr. Dampier^s Book, which you were pleased to send me, to Captain S — I have gone through it, and find it very well worth my time, being very delightsome, and I believe true. I have made some Remarks on it, as having found tbe like of what he asserts, in other places. At p. 94, meodoD 274 OF WINDS PECULIAR TO SOME COASTS » made of the Sucking-Fish, or Rcmora (as Mr. Dampier calls it). These arc mighiy plenty on the Coast of Angola and at Madagascar, and between Cape Lopes de Gonsalvas and the River Gabon. They are shaped as he describes them. As to what he saith, p. loi, 1 have found the Indians in the Gulph of Florida, offering false Ambergreece to sale, and particularly in Lat. 25 d. where in the Year 1693, several of our Men were cheated with it. What Mr, Dampier saith of the Laziness of the People of Mindanao, p. 333, the very same may be said oif the People of Loango on the Coast of" Guinea exactly. Their manner of Worship, mentioned p. 345, is the very sunc with what I have seen at Algier, on the Coast of Barbary. The Nocturnal Dancings used by the Hottantotts at the Cape of good Hope every Full and New Moon, p. 521, are also practised by the Inhabitants of Loango, Molinbo and Cabcndo. I shall give you the trouble of a small Relation of a Pauage to Loango in the Year 1693. When we came so far to the Southward as 2 d. 40 m. N. Lat. and 8 d. 25 m. Long. Westward from the Meridian of Lundy, it being 3i« of March, we had small Wind at S. S. W. and S. W. with showers of Rain. There we met with prodigious ho»Is of Fish, consisting chiefly of Albicores and Bonetoes. r?)crr were also great numbers of Sharks; some 10 or 12 !oot long. For diversion we catched above 100 of them u times. The other Fish we took as we had Occasion, &esh and fresh : and one day we caught a Barrel of them with empty Hooks. These shoals of Fish kept u Company till we were under the Equator in Long. 4 d. 3 m. Eastward of the Meridian of Lundy. This I April 27. Wc had the Winds at S. E. and S. E. by . fresh Gales and clear Weather, but a mighty Leeward At the Fishes parting with us that Day, I I an Albicore that weighed 75 /. It is a mighty I Fish, so that the Fishing-Craft must be very strong • tike them. 27s A DISCOURSE OF WINDS The City of Loango I find to lye in Lat. 4 d. 30 m. S. and Longi. 18 d. 8 m. Eastward from the Meridian of Lundy: from whence I took my departure, bound for Jamaica, Oct. 7, 1693. When we find the Winds South, S. by W. and S. S. W. fresh Gales; veerable to S. W. and back to South, we stand ofF to the Westward with Larboard Tacks on Board, till we get 14 d. Long, to the Westward of Loango. And there we find the Winds veerable from S. S. E. to S. E. fresh Gales. When we get 34 d. to the Westward of Loango, we are then 16 d. Westward from the Meridian of Lundy : and there we find the Winds veerable from S. E. by E. to E. by S. and East : and so they continue blowing fresh as we will still run to the Westward between the Lat. of 3 and 4 d. South, till we make the Island Fernande Noronho, which I find to lye in Lat. 3 d. 54 m. 30 s. South. And by the Experience of two Voyages have found its Long. 40 d. 59 m. Westward from Loango, and 22 d. 51 m. from the Meridian of Lundy. Tins Island appears with a very high Pyramid. And when wc come close to it, the Pyramid looks like a large Cathedral. On the N. W. side is a small Bay to anchor in. But Ships must come pretty near the Shore, because it is deep Water. Here is Plenty of Fish. And on the Island is some fresh Water, and low Shrubs of Trees. We could see no living Creature on it but Dogs. It was formerly inhabited by the Portuguese, but the Dutch having then War with them, took it, and carried the Portuguese all away. The Body of the Island I judge to be about 4 Miles long, lying N. E. and S. W. near on the North-adc are some Rocks, pretty high above Water ; and many Birds, as Sea-GuUs and Man-of- War-Birds (which are something like our Kites in England). I find the Current sets strong to the N. W. The Variation very little. From thence i steered N. W. with fresh Gales S. E. and at E. S. E. in order to cross the Equator, and designing to make the Island Tobago: which by my Run from the aforesaid Island, I find to lye in Lat. 11 d. 33 m. North Long. Westward of Fernando, 28 d. 19 m. ^. The MeriditB 276 OF WINDS PECULIAR TO SOME COASTS disance from Fernando 1721 Miles ■^. And by my RecTsoning or Journal Tobago is West from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy 51 d. 10 m. ■^. In this Passage between the said Islands we find strange Ripling and Cockling Seas, ready to leap in upon the Ship's Deck ; which makes us think the Current to be strong : And it seems to be occasioned by the great River on the main Land ; which is not far from us in this Passage. Tobago is an high Island with a brave sandy Bay on the S. W. adc, where the Dutch had formerly a great Fort, till molested by the English in the last Dutch War. From this Island I shaped my Course for Jamaica, and found the N. E. Corner to lye in Lat, 18 d. North; and in Long. West from Tobago 13 d. The Meridian distance from Tobago is 749 Miles West, In our Passage we saw no Land or Island, till we made the N. E. end of Jamaica: which lyeth in Long. West from the Meridian of Lundy 64 d. 10 m. and West from the City of Loango 82 d. t8 m. I shall only add that I am of Opinion that the Gallo- pagos Islands do lye a great deal farther to the Westward than our Hydrographers do place them, according as Mr. Dampier hints, p. 1I7 of his " Voyage round the World." I im, Sir, Your most humble Servant, John Covant. Pvtborr, Oti*i. 10. 1698. Pgrt tf a Kftnd Lrtter fr»m Captain Covant ; dattd from Br'tUal, Deitmb, 10. 1697. 1 ^Hntani LETTER II Sm. OURS of the 6th Instant came to my Hands, with the inclosed Queries, which 1 shall en- deavour to answer in part, as far as my memory will assist me, being now from home, and at a from my Journals, &c. MR. Y A DISCOURSE OF WINDS ANSWERS TO THE QUERIES 1 . The common Trade- Winds on the Coast of Angola, blow from the S. W. to South, till about 1 2 d. Long, from the Meridian of the Isle of Lundy. 2. I have found them always in the same Quarter, and not subject to shift in all the Time I have used this Coast, except that at a small Distance off the Shore, they are sometimes a Point more to the Westward. 3. The Dry Season on this Coast I observed to be from the latter end of April to September; tho* sometimes intermix'd with some pleasant Showers of Rain. I cannot be so punctual as to the Time of the Wet Seasons. 4. The true Sea-Breeze I have commonly found here to be from W. S. W. to W. by S. if it be fair Weather : and the Land-Breeze is at E. by N. But if a Tornado happens, it causes the Winds to shift all round the Compass, and at last it settles at S. W. which is the former true Trade- Wind. I am yours John Co v ant. 278 CHAP. VI Of Stormj •f tut mart fiera hrtwten thr Tropickt. Presages of thf awing •f Ntrlhs^ the Times and Plates where they blew : Signs tf their Apfrtath : N. Banks. A Chscalatta North, A Svrth ktneficial t» Ships going from Campeacky to Jamaica, A vtrj uit(»tmm«ii way of wearing a Ship in a North. Of Souths, tk* Timet and Plattt where they blow, A Description of a South €l JaniAM, anJ at the Bay of Campeachy : Muih Fish iHPd by that Sttrm, Of Hurricanes. A Description of a terrible one at jtntegoa, where Abundance of Fish and Sea-Fowls were destroyed by it. The £ffrrence between North-Banks^ and the Clouds before an Hstrricane : the latter adorned with radiant Colours. Tuffhons in tfu Eeist'Miei the same with Hurricanes in the fVest. Of AfwuMNj in the Eatl-Indies, A Storm called by the Portuguese, the EJ/phanta, which is the violenteit Monsoon of that Season. •^TORMS within the Tropicks are generally known to us hy some Name or other, to distinguish them I from other common Winds: and though Storms arc rot so frequent there, as they are in Latitudes acirer the Poles; yet are they nevertheless expected yearly m their proper Months; and when they do come, they Mow exceeding fierce, though indeed some years they do WK come at all, or at least do not blow with that Fierce- oot as at other times. And as these Winds are commonly *«y fierce, so are they but of a short Continuance, in Comparison with Storms that we meet with in higher latitudes. In the West-Indies there are three sorts, viz. Norths, Somhs, and Hurricanes : In the East-Indies there are only ^•ore, viz. Monsoons and TufFoons. 279 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS All these sorts of violent Storms, except the Norths, are expected near one time of the Year : and this is taken notice of by those that have been in any of them; that they give certain Presages of their being at hand, several Hours before they come. Norths are violent Winds, that frequently blow in the Bay of Me»co from October till March : They are chiefly expected near the Full or Change of the Moon, all that Time of the Year, but they are most violent in December and January. These Winds arc not confined to the Bay of Mexico only, but there they arc most frequent, and Rage with the greatest Violence. They blow on the North-side of Cuba very fierce too, and in the Gulph of Florida : as also about Hispaniola, Jamaica, &c. and in the Channel between Jamaica and Portabel ; and in all the West-Indian Sea between the Islands and the Main as high as the Island Trinidado. But from Jamaica Eastward, except on the North-side of the Island His- paniola, they blow no harder than a pretty brisk Sea Wind. They are here at W. N. W. or N. W. though in the Bay of Mexico they blow strongest at N. N. W. and this b the Season of Westerly Winds in these East-parts of the West- Indies, as I have before noted in the third Chapter of this Discourse. I shall be most particular of them that blow in the Bay of Mexico, and what Signs they give us beforehand. Commonly before a North the Weather is very serene and fair, the Sky clear, and but little Wind, and that too veering from its proper Point, or the common Trade- Wind of the Coast ; and breathing gently at S. at S. W. and West a Day or two before the North comes. The Sea also gives notice of a Storm, by an extraordinary and long Ebb. For a Day or two before a North, there will be hardly any discernable Flood, but a constant ebbing of the Sea. And the Sea-Fowls also before a Storm, do commonly hover over the Land, which they do not at other times use to do, in such great Flights and Numbers. All these Signs con- curring, may give any Man notice of an approaching Storm, but the greatest and most remarkable Sign of a North, is a very black Cloud in the N. W. rising above the Horizon 280 OF STORMS > about loor 12 degrees; the upper Edge of the Cloud i very even and smooth, and when once the upper of the Cloud is 6, 8, jo or 12 degrees high, there t remains in that even form parallel to the Horizon with- out any Motion ; and this sometimes 2 or 3 Days before the Siorm comes: At other times not above 12 or 14 Hours, but never less. This Cloud lying so near the Horizon, is not seen but in the Mornings or Evenings, at least it does not appear so bUck as then ; this is called by Englif^h Seamen a North Bank, and whenever we see such a Cloud in that part of the World, and in the Months before-mentioned, we certainly provide for a Storm ; and tho' sometimes it may happen that such a Cloud may appear several Mornings and Evenings, and we may not feel the Effects of it, or but very little ; yet we always provide against it ; for a North never comes without such a foreboding Cloud. But if the Winds also whiffle about to the South, with fair flattering _Weather, it never fails. While the Wind remains at L S. W. or any thing to the South of the West, it blows / faint ; but when once it comes to the North of the ^est, it begins to be brisk and veers about presently to the Torth-West, where it blows hard ; yet does it not stay lere long before it veers to the N. N. W. and there it w» strongest and longest. Sometimes it continues 24 or even 48 Hours, and sometimes longer. When the Wind first comes to the N. W. if the black Cloud rises and comes away, it may chance to give but one Flurry, like that of a Tornado; and then the Sky grows clear again; >nd either the Wind continues at N. W. blowing only a Siisk Gale, which the Jamaica Seamen call a Chocolatta North, or else it veers about again to the East, and settles there But if when the Wind comes to the N. W. the Qood still remains settled, the Wind then continues blow- ■■"5 Very fierce even so long as the black Bank continues far the Horizon. It is commonly pretty dry and clear, hot Moietimcs much Kain falls with a North : and tho' tke Qouds which bring Rain, come from the N. W. and N. N, W, yet the black Bank near the Horizon seems not z8l A DISCOURSE OF WINDS to move till the Heart of the Storm is broke. When the Wind starts from the N. N. W. to the N. *tis a sign that the Violence of the Storm is past, especially if it veers to the East of the North ; for then it soon flies about to the East, and there settles at its usual Point and brings fsiir Weather : But if it goes back from the N. to the N. W. it will last a day or two longer, as fierce as befcn^ ; and not without a great deal of Rain. When our Jamaica Logwood-ships are coming loaden out of the Bay of Campeachy in the North-Season, they are glad to have a North. For a good North will bring them almost to Jamaica ; neither have any of our Vessels miscarried in one of these Storms that I did ever hear of, though sometimes much shattered ; but the Spaniards do commonly suflFer by them, and there is seldom a Year but one or more of them are cast away in the Bay of Gim- peachy in this Season : for they don't work their Ships as we do ours. They always bring their Ships too under a Fore-sail and Mizen, but never under a Main-sail and Mizen, nor yet under the Mizen alone ; but we generally bring too under Main-sail and Mizen; and if the Wind grows too fierce we bring her under a Mizen only ; and if we cannot maintain that, then we balast our Mizen : which is by rifling and taking up great Part of the Sail. If after all this, the Winds and Seas are too high for us, then we put before it, but not before we have tryed our utmost, especially if we are near a Lee-Shore. On the contrary, the Spaniards in the West-Indies, (as I said before) l3rc under a Fore-sail and Mizen : But this must needs be an extraordinary Strain to a Ship, especially if she be long. Indeed there is this Convenience in it, when they arc minded to put away before it, *tis but hailing up the Mizen, and the Fore-Sail veers the Ship presently : and I judge it is for that Reason they do it. For when the Wind comes on so fierce that they can no longer keep on a Wind, they put right afore it, and so continue till the Storm ceaseth, or the Land takes them up (/. e. till they are run a-shore). I knew two Spaniards did so, while I was in the Bay. One was a King's Ship, called the 282 OF STORMS PistatUre. She run ashore on a sandy Bay, a Mile to the Westward of the River Tobasco. The other was come within four or five Leagues of the Shore, and the Storm ceasing, she escaped Shipwreck, but was taken by Captain Hcwet, Commander of a Privateer, who was then in the Bay. Her Main-mast and Mizen were cut down in the StcB-m. Both these ships came from La Vera Cruz, and were in the North-side of the Bay when first the Storms took them. And tho' we don't use this Method, yet we find means to wear our Ships as well as they ; for if after the Mizen is hall'd up and furled, if then the Ship will not wear, we must do it with some Head-sail, which yet •ometimes puts us to our Shifts- As I was once in a very violent Storm, sailing from Virginia, mentioned in my "Voyage round the World," we scudded before the Wind and Sea some time, with only our bare Poles ; and the Ship by the mistake of him that con'd, brochcd too, and lay in the Trough of the Sea ; which then went so high that every Wave threatned to overwhelm us. And indeed if any one of them had broke in upon our Deck, it might have foundrcd us. The Master,' whose Fault this was, rav'd tike a mad Man, and called for an Axe to cut the Mizen Shrotujs, and turn the Mizen Mast over Board : which indeed might have been an Expedient to bring her to her Course again. Captain Davis was then Quarter-master, and a more experienced Seaman than the Master. He bid him hold his Hand a little, in hopes to bring her some other way to her Course : The Captain also was of his Mind. Now our Main-yard and Fore-yard were lowered down a Port last, as we call it, that is, down pretty nigh the Deck, and the Wind blew so fierce that we did not dare to loose any Hcad-sait, for they must have blown away if we had, neither could all the Men in the Ship have furled them again ; therefore we had no hopes of doing it that way. I was at this time on the Deck with some ochert of our Men; and among the rest one Mr. John Smallhone, who was the main Instrument at that Time of • Tha m>Mtr ("•rhoic Fault this was") witi Ambrose Cowley. The cspuiB ■«• John Cook. J83 i A DISCOURSE OF WINDS saving us all. Come ! said he to me, let us go a little way up the Fore-shrouds, it may be that may make the Ship wear; for I have been doing it before now. He never tarried for an Answer, but run forward presently, and I followed him. We went up the Shrouds Half-mast up, and there we spread abroad the Flaps of our Coats, and presently the Ship wore.^ I think we did not stay there above three minutes before we gwi'd our Point and came down again, but in this time the Wind was got into our Main-sail, and had blown it loose ; and tho* the Mwi-yard was down a Port-last and our Men were got on the Yard as many as could lye one by another, besides the Deck full of Men, and all striving to furl that Sail, yet could wc not do it, but were forced to cut it all along by the Head-rope, and so let it fall down on the Deck. Having largely treated of Norths, I shall next give some Account of Souths. South Winds are also very violent Winds. I have not heard any thing of these sorts of Storms, but at Jamaica or by Jamaica Sailors. The Time when they blow at Jamaica is about June, July or August, Months that Norths never blow in. The greatest Stress of Wind in these Storms is at South, from whence it's probable they are named Souths. In what they differ from the Hurricanes that rage among the Caribbee Islands, I know not, unless in this, that they are more constant to one Point of the Compass, or that they come sooner in the Year than Hurricanes do, but those Storms call'd Hurricanes, had never been known at Jamaica when I was there. Yet since I have heard that they have felt the Fury of them several Times. But I was at Jamaica when there happened a violent South. It made great Havock in the Woods; and blew down many great Trees ; but there was no great Damage done by it. Port Royal was in great Danger then of being washed away, for the Sea made a Breach clear through the Town ; and if the Violence of Weather had continued but a few Hours * Cf. Anson's voyage : " As we dared not venture any sail abroad, wt were obliged to make use of an expedient which answered our purpose ; this was putting the helm a-weather, and manning the fbre-shrouds." 284 OF STORMS longer, many of the Houses had been washed away : For the Point of l^nd on which that Town stands, is Sand ; which began to wash away apace : but the Storm ceasing, there was no further Damage. This was in July or August in the Year 1674. 1 was afterwards in the Bay of Campeachy, when we had a much more violent Storm than this, called also by the Logwood-cutters a South. It happened some time in June 1676. I was then cutting Logwood in the Western Creek of the West Lagune. Two days before this Storm began, the Wind whiffled about to the South, and back again to the East, «nd blew very faintly. The Weather also was very (air, and the Mcn-of-War-Birds came hovering over the Land in great Numbers ; which is very unusual for them to do. This made some of our Lc^wood-Cutters say, that we should have some Ships come hither in a short Time ; for they believed it was a certain Token of the Arrival of Ships, when these Birds came thus hovering over the Land. And Ktme of them said they had lived at Barbadoes, where it was generally taken Notice of: and that as many of these Birds as they saw hovering over the Town, so many Ship* there were coming thither. And according to that Rule they foolishly guess'd that here were a great many Ships coming hither at that Time; tho' 'tis impossible that they could imagine there could be the hundredth part of the Ships arrive, that they saw Birds fly over their Heads. But that which I did most admire was, to see the Water keep ebbing for two Days together, without any Flood, till the Creek, where we lived, was almost dry. There was commonly at low Water seven or eight Foot Water; but now not above 3, even in the middle of the Creek. About 4 a Clock the 2d Day after this unusual Ebb, the Sky looked very black, and the Wind sprung up fresh at S, E. and increasing. In less than two Hours time it blew down all our Huts, but one; and that with much Labour we propt up with Pt«ts, and with Ropes cast over the Ridge, and fasining both ends to stumps of Trees, we secured the Roof from flying away. In it we huddled all 285 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS TcigtthfT t£]: zht Scorm rrayii It rmed tot hard the ZTGLVtst "part of the Scorm, and aboot rvo Hours after the Wind first spring up, rhc Watfxs Aowcz raj fast in. The next Morning it was as high as the Banks of the Creek : which was higher than I had ctct sees it before. The Flood stili increased, and run faster up the Creek than ever I saw it do in the greatest Sprii^-Tide ; which was somewhat strange, because the Wind was at South, which is right off the Shore on this Coast. Nathcr did the Rain any thing abate, and by ten a Clock in the Morning the Banks of the Creek were all overflown. About twelve at Noon we brought our Canoa to the side of our Hut, and fastned it to the Stump of a Tree that stood by it ; that being the only Refuge that we could now expect ; for the Land a little way within the Banks of the Creek is much lower than where we were : So that there was no walking through the Woods because of the Water. Besides, the Trees were torn up by the Roots, and tumbled down so strangely a-cross each other, that it was almost impossible to pass through them. The Storm continued all tins Day and the Night following till ten a Clock : then it b^n to abate, and by two in the Morning it was quite calm. This Storm made very strange work in the Woods by tearing up the Trees by the Roots : The Ships also riding at Trist and at One-Bush-Key, felt the Fury of it to Adr Sorrow; for of four that were riding at One-Bush-Key, three were driven away from their Anchors, one of which was blown into the Woods of Beef-Island. And of the four Ships that were at Trist, three also were driven from their Anchors, one of which was cast up about twenty Paces beyond High-Water-Mark on the Island of Trist. The other two were driven off to Sea; and one of them was never heard of since. The poor Fish also suffered extremely by this Storm, for we saw Multitudes of them either cast on the Shore, or floating dead on the Lagunes. Yet this Storm did not reach 30 Leagues to Wind-ward of Trist, for Captiun Vaily of Jamaica, went hence but three Days before the 286 OF STORMS ^^_ jan, and was not past 30 Leagues off when we t tt so 6erce, yet be felt none of it ; but only saw very black dismal Clouds to the Westward, as he reported at hit Return from Jamaica to Trist four Months after. tl shall speak next of Hurricanes. These arc violent Storms, raging chiefly among the ibbce Islands; though, by Relation, Jamaica has of late been much annoyed by them ; but it has been since the Time of my being there They are expected in July, August or September. t These Storms also as well as the Norths or Souths, give te Signs of thdr Approach before they come on, I e not been in any one of them my self, but have made Enquiry of many Men that have, and they all agree that cither they arc preceded by flattering unusual small Winds tad very fair Weather, or by a great Glut of Rain, or else both Rains and Calms together. I shall give an Instance of one that gave such Warning, happened at Antegoa in August 1681, I had the Relation it from Mr, John Smallbone,' before-mentioned, who I Gunner of a Ship of 120 Tons and 10 Guns, com- loded by Capt. Gadbury. Before this Storm it rained two Days excessively, then held up two or three Days more: but the Sky was Boded and appear'd to be much troubled, yet but little ^Tnd. The Planters by this were certain of a Hurricane, warned the Ship- Commanders to provide for it, especi- Capt. Gadbury; who had careen'd his Ship in Muskito ■e in St. John's Harbour but a little before, and by this ixning given him by the Planters, had gotten hts Goods Board again, which though all he had, yet was but ut half his lading of Sugar, Molosses and Rum. He I moored his Ship as secure as he could, with all his ties and Anchors, besides some Cables which he had )c fast ashore to great Trees. And about 7 a Clock [ Ercning that the Storm came, he dreading it, went with all his Men, and retired into a poor Planter's ' Tbii fohn Smallbone afterwards accompanied Uampiet r>n his voyage ^ Fmaetl 10 ibe South Seas. 187 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS House about half a Mile from the Shore. By that Time he and his Men were arrived at the House, which was before 8 a Clock ; the Wind came on very fierce at N. E. and veering about to the N. and N. W. settled there, bring- ing with it very violent Rains. Thus it continued about four Hours, and then fell flat calm, and the Rain ceased. In this Calm he sent 3 or 4 of his Men down to the Cove to see what Condition the Ship was in, and they found her driven ashore dry on the Sand, lying on one side, with the Head of her Mast sticking into the Sand ; after they had walk'd round her and view*d her a-while, they returned again to the Capt. to give him an Account of the Disaster, and made as much haste as they could, because the Wind began to blow hard at S. W. and it blew so violently before they recovered the House, that the Boughs of the Trees whipt them suflicientiy before they got thither; and it rained as hard as before. The little House could scarce shelter them from the wet ; for there was little beside the Walls standing: For the ist Northerly Gust blew away great part of the Ridge and most of the Thatch. Yet there they staid till the next Morning, and then coming to the Ship found her almost upright ; but all the Goods that were in the Hold were wash'd out, and the Sugar was wash'd out of the Cask. Some of the Rum they found; a Cask in one place and a Cask in another : some on the Shore, and some half a Mile in the Woods; and some stav'd against the Trees and leek'd out; for it seems there had been a violent Motion in the Sea, as well as in the Air. For in the Beginning of the Night when the N. E. Gust raged, the Sea ebb'd so prodigiously, or else was driven oflF the Shore by the Violence of the Wind so far, that some Ships riding in the Harbour in 3 or 4 Fathom Water, were a-ground, and lay so till the S. W. Gust came, and then the Sea came rowling in again with such prodigious Fury, that it not only set them a-float, but dash'd many of them on the Shore. One of them was carried up a great way into the Woods : another was strangely hurrd on two Rocks that stood close by one another; with her 288 OF STORMS id resting on one Rock, and her Stern on the other : J thus she lay like a Bridge between the two Rocks, ut ten or eleven Foot above the Sea, even In the highest Ics; f<x the Tides do usually rise here but little, not ve two or three Foot, but in these Hurricanes it lys d>bs and flows again prodigiously. Ji was not the Ships only that felt the Fury of this rm, but the whole Island suffered by it ; for the Houses c blown dawn, the Trees tore up by the Roots, or , their Heads and Limbs sadly shattered, neither was re any Leaves, Herbs or green Thing left on the , but all look'd like Winter. Insomuch that a Ship ling thither a little after, that used that Trade, could ■cc believe it to be the same Island. Neither did the ■y of this Storm light only here, for Nevis and Christopher's had their Shares also ; but Mounisurat little of it, tho' not above a Fortnight after there incd another Storm, as violent as this, and raged remcly there, but did little Damage at Nevis and Christophers. Antegoa had a great Share of this . Capt. Gadbury's Ship, that lay a-ground before It K, was by it hurled over to the opposite part of the rbour, and there thrown dry on the Sand. The Day after the Storm, the Shore was strew'd with b of divers sorts, as well great as small ; such as Sharks, Sec. and Abundance of Sea-Fowls also c destroyed by it. I would not have any Man think that these Hurricanes, any other Storms, do always give warning of their ling exactly alike: For there may be some Difference those Signs, the' all of them be plain enough if well Besides sometimes they arc duplicated, some- only single Signs, and sometimes the Signs may be visible and plain than at other Times: when by accidental Cause those Signs may be less visible by B of some high Hill or Mountain that may be I'd between you and the Horizon, especially if ill lies N. E. from you, which is the Quarter that fcancs do commonly rise in. .. II. 289 T 'g:, A DISCOURSE OF WINDS The Clouds that precede a Hurricane are difierent from the North-Banks, in this, that whereas the Clouds preceding Norths are uniform and regular; of an exact Blackness even from the Horizon to the upper Edge of it, and that as streight and even as a Line stretched out. On the contrary, the Hurricane-Clouds tower up their Heads, pressing forwards as if they all strove for Pre- cedency ; yet so linked one within another, that all move alike. Besides, the Edges of these Clouds are gilded with various and afrighting Colours, the very Edge of all seems to be of a pale fire-colour, next that of a dull yellow, and nearer the Body of the Cloud of a Copper-Colour, and the Body of the Cloud which is very thick appears extraordinary black: and altogether it looks very terrible and amazing even beyond Expression. Tho* I have never been in any Hurricane in the West-Indies, yet I have seen the very Image of them in the East-Indies, and the Effects have been the very same ; and for my part I know no Difference between a Hurricane among the Caribbee- Islands in the West-Indies, and a TufFoon on the Coast of China in the East-Indies, but only the Name : And I am apt to believe that both Words have one Significatiofi, which is, a violent Storm. I have given a large Account of one of these in my "Voyage round the World," Chapter XV, Page 409. That gave warning by flattering Weather beforehand, and a very dismal Cloud, set out with such Colours as I have before described, rising in the N. E. from whence the Violence of the first Gust came, which was wonderful fierce and accompanied with extraordinary hard Rain; then it afterwards fell calm about an Hour, and then the Wind came about at S. W. and blew as fierce as it did before at N. E. which is much like the Hurricane before-mentioned at Antegoa, but of a longer Continu- ance than that : Besides, in both places they blow at one time of the Year, which is in July, August or Sep- tember ; and commonly near the Full or Change of the Moon. Another thing that we must also take notice of, is, 290 W OF STORMS phit both Places arc North of the Equator, though not exactly in one Latitude. But of these Tuffbons I shall say no more now, having described them particularly in my Voyage to Tonquin, Chap. II. Fag. 586. The Monsoons in the East-Indies are the next to be treated of; by which I do not mean the Coasting Trade- wind, so called, which I have already described in Page 243 of this Discourse ; for though Monsoon is a general Word for the Wind there, distinguished by East or West, accord- ing to the Points from whence they blow; yet it sometimes also signifies a Storm, as I now take it. And it is easie to be understood, when it is used in Reference to the Trade-wind, or when spoken of a Storm ; for if applied to a Storm, 'tis cxpress'd by some Epithet going before : As Violent, Terrible, &c. without any Distinction of East or West, which is commonly used in speaking of the Trade-Wind. These Monsoons or Storms on the Coast of Coromandel ire expected either about April or September, which are accounted the two shifting Months. For in these two Months the Winds begin to shift and turn from that Point, on which they have blown several Months before to the contrary Points of the Compass ; as from East to West, or the contrary : but commonly this Shift is attended with a turbulent Sky, which ends in a violent Storm of Wind, or excessive Rains, or both : And this is called also the break- ing up of the Monsoon. It was in one of these that I put from Nicohar to Sumatra, mentioned in my *' Voyage round the World," Chap. XVIII. Page 479. This was the April Monsoon. The September Monsoons are generally more violent than these last: yet by the Account I have lately had from Fort St. George, they have suffered very much by one of the April Monsoons (if it may be so called) for it came before its usual time, even before it could be expected. As for the September Monsoons, ihn' the time of the Year is so well known, and the Warnings of their Approach almost certain ; yet our East-India Merchants have had 291 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS very considerable Losses there ; for the Stress of the Winds blows right in upon the Shore, and often hurries the Ships from their Anchors, and tosses them in a Moment on the sandy Bay. Indeed the want of a secure Place to ride in, is the greatest Inconvenience of that Factory, a Place doubtless designed by the English from its Original to be the Center of the Trade of these Parts. For all our Factories, and the Trade in general. East from Cape Comorin, are now subordinate to this. The Dutch had once a place of Consequence, called Pallacat, on this Coast, about twenty Leagues to the North of it ; but they withdrew most of their Families and Effects from thence in the Year 1691, mentioned in my "Voyage round the World,'* Chap. XX. Page 505. And it is very probable that these rageing Winds might be one Cause of this their deserting it, whatever was the Motive of settling here ; for they have secure Harbours, and Roads enough in India, which we to our great Disadvantage very much want. But to return to the Monsoons. These (as I have told you) blow fiercest in September, and, as I have been informed, blow on several Points of the Compass. The stormy Monsoons on the Mallabar Coast differ from these on the Coast of Coromandel, in that they are more common, and last even from April to September, which is as long as the common West-Monsoon lasts, though not so frequent and lasting in the Beginning of the Monsoon, as towards the latter end. The Months of July and August aflFord very bad Weather, for then there is hardly any Intermission, but a continued troubled Sky full of black Clouds which pour down excessive Rains, and often very fierce Winds. But towards the breaking up of the Monsoon, they have one very terrible Storm called by the Portuguese the Eliphanta, which concludes the bad Weather. For after that they put to Sea without fear of any more Storms that Season. These violent Winds blow directly in upon the Shore ; 292 OF STORMS and they dam up the Harbours on this G)asty especially that of Goa, so that no Ships can go in or come out then ; but after the violent Winds are past, the Channel opens again, and so continues till the next Season. This Relation I had from a very ingenious Gentleman who was at Goa during the bad Weather. I shall only take notice that these Storms are also at the same Time of the Year, when the Hurricanes and Souths are in the West-Indies, and the Tuffoons on the Coasts of China, Tunqueen, Cochinchina and Cambodia in the Eastern Parts of the East-Indies, and that all these Places arc to the North of the Equator. 293 CHAP. VII Of the Seasons of the Tear The Wet and Dry Seasons on the North-side of the Equator ; and on the South of it. Places famous for much dry Weather ; as part of Peruy and Africa. A Comparison between those Coasts. Of raining Coasts ; as Guinea, Why Guinea more subject to Rains than the opposite Coast of Brazil. The time of Sugar-making. Of the Seasons at Suranam. Bays more subject to Rain than Head-Lands, Several Instances of thisj as at Campeachy^ Panama^ Tunqueen^ Bengahy &c. Mountains more subject to Rains than Low Land : An Instance of this at Jamaica. The Isle of Pines near Cuba, a wet Place, So is also Gorgonia in the Sauth-Seas. The manner how Tornadoes arise. ^S Summer and Winter are the two most difFerent /^L Seasons in our Climate; so the Dry and the / ^ Wet are within the Torrid Zone; and arc X. ]^ always opposite to each other. They are often called by Europeans Winter and Summer, but more gene- rally, Dry and Wet. The Seasons on each side of the Equator, are as difi^rent as the Seasons of Summer and Winter are in temperate Climates, or near each Pole. For as 'tis Summer near the North-Pole, when 'tis Winter near the South-Pole, and the contrary ; so when 'tis fair and dry Weather North of the Equator, 'tis blustering and rainy Weather South of it ; and the contrary, except within a few degrees of the Line, and that in some places only. There is also this difference between the Torrid and Temperate Zones, either North or South of the Equator; that when it is fair and dry Weather in the one, it is Winter in the other : and when it is wet in the one, it is 294 J ■ OF THE SEASONS OF THE YEAR raammcr in the other, I speak now of Places I>'tng on the same side of the Equator : For as the Sun when it passes ifie Equinox, and draws towards either of the Tropicks, begins to w a r m their respective Poles, and by how much the nearer he approaches, by so much is the Air without the Tropicks clear, dry and hot ; on the contrary, within the I'orrid Zone (though on the same side of the Line) the farther the Sun is off, the dryer is the Weather. And as the Sun comes nearer, the Sky grows more cloudy and the Weather more moist: for the Rains follow the Sun, and begin on cither side of the Equator, within a little while after the Sun has crost the Equinox, and so continue till after his return back again. The wet Season on the North side of the Equator in the Torrid Zone, begins in April or May, and so continues till September or October. The dry Weather comes in November or December, and continues till April or May. In South Latitudes the Weather changes at the same times, but with this difference, that the dry Months in South Latitude, are wet Months in North Latitude, and the contrary, as I have said before. Yet neither do the wet or dry Seasons set in or go out exactly at one time, in all Yeare; neither are all places subject to wet or dry Weather alike. For in some places it rains less than in oihd*; and consequently there is more dry Weather. But generally Places that lye under the Line, or near it, h«TC their greatest Rains in March and September. Hcad-l^nds or Coasts that lye most exposed to the Trade-winds have commonly the best share of dry Weather. On the contrar>\ deep Bays or Bcndings of the Land, opectally tuch as lye near the Line, are most subject to Kains. Yet even among Bays or Bendings, there is a great deal of diflferencc in the Weather as to dry or wet ; for the Weather, as well as the Winds seem to be much influenced by accidental Causes; and those Causes themselves, what- ever they are. seem to be subject to great variation. But to proceed with Matter of Fact ; I shall begin with the driest Coasts ; and first with that of Peru, from 295 A DISCOURSE OF \%TXDS 3 d- South to 3c d. Soath- There it nercr Rains, neither at Sea f:r a g»i distajrice off shore, as for 250 or 300 Leagues ; r.o :: or oc the shore for a cocsidcrafalc way witlun Land ; thc::gh eiactiv how far I know not ; yet there are small Nlists sonted^es in a Morning for two or three Hours, but seldom coritinaing afcer 10 a-Qock ; and there arc Debars also :n the Night- Tris Coast I^ N. and S it has the Sea open to the West, and a Chain of very high Mountains running along shore on the East, and the Winds constantly Southerly, as I said before in the second Chapter of Winds. In which Head I have made a Comparison as well of the Winds on the Coast of Africa in the same Latitude, as of the lying of the Coasts. Only there is this diflference, that the coasting Trade-winds on the American side do blow further from the Land than those on the African side. Which difference may probably arise ^m the dis- proportion of the Mountains that are in the two Continents ; for *tis known that the Andes in America are some <^ the highest Mountains in the World, but whether there are any on the Continent of Africa in those Latitudes so high, I know not. I have not heard of any, at least none such are visible to Seamen. I come now to speak of the Weather on the Aiiican Coast, which though *tis not so dry as the Coast of Peru, yet is it the next to it. The Weather there is very dry from March till October, which is the dry Season. The rainy Season, which is from October till March, is moderate, without that excess that is in most other Places in those Latitudes ; so that the wettest Season can only be called so from some gentle showers of Rain. There are some Tornadoes, but not so many as arc in many other Places, both of the East or West Indies, the Peruvian Coast excepted. And if the height of the Andes are the cause that the true East-Breeze does not take place in the Pacifick-Sea, within 200 Leagues distance from the shore, when yet the Trade blows within 40 Leagues of the African Coast; that Coast may perhaps be supposed to want such high Mountains. And if those American 296 OF THE SEASONS OF THE YEAR Lintains do stop the Winds from their Career, why may jjr not as well break the Clouds before they reach near shore, and be the cause of the dry Weather there ? And txg both Coasts do lye alike, and the Wind is alike ; f should not the Weather be the same ; were it not for dbproportinn between the Mountains of these Coasts? ■ the East-side of those Mountains are supplied with \b enough, as may be known by the great Rivers that mbogue from thence into the Atlantick Sea; whereas Rivers on the South-Sea Coast are but very few and ■il ; some of which do wholly dry away for a good part the Year; but yet they constantly break out again in tr Seasons, when the Rains in the Country do come, ich always fall on the West-side of those Mountains, I this is about February. As I have spoken before of dry Coasts, so now I shall ik of rainy ones. I shall begin with the Coast of inea, from Cape Lopes, which lies one degree South, big in the Bite or Bending of the Land, and all the at West from thence, as far as Cape Paimas. Thi« B a very wet Coast, subject to violent Tornadoes . excessive Rains, especially in July and August: In K Months there is scarce any fair Day. This Coast lies of it very near the Equator, and no where above 6 or 7 es Distance ; so that from its nearness to the Equator ', wc might probably conjecture that it is a rainy Coast ; moM places lying near the Line are very subject to is: yet some more than others; and Guinea may be koaed among the wettest Places in the World. There f he P]accs where the Rains continue longer, but none mcffc violent while they last. And as its nearness to the Line may be a great cause of Moisture; so by its situation also one would guess that boold be subject to a great deal of Rain ; because there I great Bite or Bending in of the Land, a little to the rcn of the Ljnc; and from thence the Land stretcheth ( parallel with the Line. And these circumstances ly taken, according to my Observations do seldom fail, mcPTC especially where they both meet. Yet there may 297 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS be other causes that may hinder those Effects, or at least serve to allay the violence of them, as they <io on some other Coasts. I shall only instance in the opposite Coast of America between the North Cape, which lies North of the Equator, and Cape Blanco on Brazil, in South Latitude. Now this Land lies much after the Form of the Coast of Guinea, with this diff^erence, that one Coast lies in South Lat. the other lies North of the Equator, both of these Promontories lay parallel with the Equator, and there's not much difference in their distance from it ; but that which makes the difference is, that one juts out Westward, the other Eastward ; and so one is the very Westermost Land of the Continent of Africa, the other is the Eastermost Land of the Continent of America : The one has only an eddy Wind, which seems to me to be the Effect of two contrary Winds : The other Coast lies open to the Trade, and never wants a Breeze. And the former is troubled with Tornadoes and violent Rains during the wet Season, which is May, June, July, August and September : But the extremest wet Months are July and August ; when it rains in a manner continually. April and October also some- times are wet Months. The other Coast on the American Continent, which lies open to the E. and N. E. or S. E. and which enjoys the freer Trade-Wind, is less subject to Rain ; only as it lies near the Line, it has its part, but not to Excess, nor in any Comparison with Guinea. And as the Line is to the N. of it, so its wet Months are from October till April, and the dry Season from April to October. And these Seasons reach even to six or seven Degrees North of the Line: Which I do not know to be so in any other part of the World again. Indeed Cape Lopes in Guinea, is in one degree South, yet participates of the same Weather that the rest of Guinea has, which lies to the North of the Line. Now the Reason why Europeans do account the dry Season Summer, and the wet Season Winter ; is because the dry Season is their Harvest time, especially in our Planta- tions, where we chiefly make Sugar ; for then the Canes are as yellow as Gold. They have then indeed less Juice, 298 j W OF THE SEASONS OF THE YEAR Hlut that little there is, is very sweet. Whereas in the wet Seavin, tho' the Canes are ripe, and come to their Maturity ; yet do they not yield such Quantities of Sugar, neither is it so good, tho' the Pains in boiling it be also greater. Therefore in Northern Climates, as all our Plantations are in, they commonly begin to work about making of Sugar at Christmas; after the dry Season has brought the Canes to 1 good Perfection. But in South Climates, as on the Coast ot Brazil, they begin to work in July. Some Places there are in the North Latitudes also near the Line, where the Weather bears Time with the Seasons in South Lat. as at Sor«iam, which though it is in North Lat. yet are the Seasons there the same as in South Latitudes ; but I know not such another Instance any where. And tho' the dry Scas<m i* the Time to gather in the Canes, and the wet Season to plant ; yet arc they not so limited as to make use only of these Seasons for cither; but do it chiefly for their best Convenience; for they may plant at any Time of the Year, and that with good Success : especially after a moderate Shower of Rain, which often happens even in the dry Seasons. But 1 must proceed. f have said before that Bays have greater Quantities of Rain than Head-I^nds. The Bay of Campcachy is a good Instance of this; for the Rains are very great there, especially in the Months of July and August. On the contrary, the Coast from Cape Cstoch to Cape Condecedo, which lies more exposed to the Trade, has not near the Rains as the Bay of Campeachy hath. The Bay of Honduras also is very wet, and all that bending Coast from Cape Gratia de Dios, even to Cartha- ecna. But on the Coast of Caraccjs, and about Cape La Vela, where the Breezes are more brisk, the Weather is mure moderate. Whereas in those little Bays between, there is still a Difference : For in the Bay of Mericaya, which lies a little to the I^ast nf Cape La Vela, there is much more Rain than at or near the Cape. The Bay of Panama also will furnish us with a Proof L 199 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS of this, by its immoderate Rains ; especially the South-side of it, even from the Gulph of St. Michael, to Gipe St. Francis; the Rains there are from April till November; but in June, July, and August, they are most violent. There are many small Bays also West from the Bay of Panama, which have their Shares of these wet Seasons, as the Gulph of Dulce, Caldera Bay, Amapalla, &c. but to the West of that, where the Coast runs more plain and even, there are not such wet Seasons; yet many times very violent Tornadoes. The East-Indies also has many Bays that are subject to very violent Rains, as the Bay of Tonqueen, that or Siam, the Bottom and the East-side of the Bay of Bengali. But on the Coast of Coromandel, which is the West-side of that Bay, the Weather is more moderate ; that being an even, plain, low Coast. But on the Coast of Mallabar, which is on the West-side of that Promontory, the Land is high and mountainous, and there are violent Rains. Indeed the West-sides of any Continents are wetter than the East- sides, the Coast of Peru and Africa only excepted ; in the former of which the Dryness may be occasioned (as is said before) by the Height of the Andes. And *tis probable that the Violence of the Rains near those Mountains falls chiefly on the East-sides of them, and seldom reaches to their Tops : which yet if the Rains do, they may there be broke in pieces, and reach no further. For, among other Observations, I have taken Notice that Mountains are supplied with more Rains than low Lands, I mean the low Land bordering on the Sea. As for Instance, the South- side of Jamaica beginning at Leganea, and from thence away to the Westward, as far as Black River, including all the plain Land and Savannahs about St. Jago de la V^o, Old Harbour and Whithy-wood Savannahs. This is a plain level Country for many Miles lying near East and West, having the Sea on the South, and bounded with Mountains on the North. Those Mountains are commonly supplied with Rsun before the low Lands. I have known the Rains to have begun there three Weeks before any has fallen in the plain 300 5ASONS OF THE YEAR Country, bordering on the Sea ; yet every Day 1 have obscrvol vcr)' black Clouds over the Mountains, and have hard it thunder there. And those very Clouds have seemed by their Motion to draw towards the Sea, but have been checlc'd in their Course, and have either returned towards the Mountains again, or else have spent themselves before they came from thence, and so have vanished away again to the great Grief of the Planters, whose Plantations and Cattle have suffered for want of a little Moisture. Nay, these Tornadoes have been so nigh, that the Sea Breeze has died away, and we have had the Wind fresh out of the Clouds, yet they have vanished, and yielded no Rain to the low parch'd Lands. And I think that the want of seasonable Showers is one of the greatest Inconveniencies that this part of the Country suffers, for I have known in some very dry Years, that the Grsais in the Savannahs has been burned and wither'd for want of Rain, and the Cattle have perished thereby for want of Food. The Plantations also have suffered very much by it ; but such dry Seasons have not been known on the North-side of the Island where the Mountains are bordering on the Sea, or at least but a little Distance off it. For there they are supplied with seasonable Showers almost ill the Year, and even in the dry time it self near the Full md Change of the Moon. But in the wet Season, the ^JiAiBs are more violent, which is their Inconvenience. ^L As for the Valleys in the Country, they are not ^HAtjcct to such Droughts as the plain Land by the Sea, PVt least I hare not observed it my self, nor have I heard it mentioned by others. TTic Isle of Pines near Cuba is so noted a Place for Rain that the Spaniards inhabiting near it on Cuba, say that it rains more or less every day in the Year, at one Place or another. It is generally spoken also and bcliev'd by Privateers, for it has been oft visited by them. I have been there my self, but cannot confirm that Report. How- ever, it is well known to be a very wet and rainy Place. Island of about r" ; and three or four broad ; and i 301 the lidst Leagues high A DISCOURSE OF WINDS peeked Mountain, which is commonly clouded; and the Privateers say that this Hill draws all the Clouds to it; for if there is not another Cloud to be seen any where else, yet this Hill is seldom or never clear. Gorgonia in the South-Seas also has the same Report. It is much smaller than Pines. I have mentioned it in my "Voyage round the World,*' Chap. VII. Page 193. This Isle lies about four Leagues from the Main : but the Isle of Pines not above two, and is a great deal bigger than it. The Main against Gorgonia is very low Land; but Cuba near Pines is pretty high, and the Mountain of Pines is much bigger and higher than the Hill of Gorgonia, which yet is of a good Height, so that it may be seen sixteen or eighteen Leagues off; and tho' I cannot say that it rains every day there, yet I know that it rains very much and extraordinary hard. I have been at this Isle three Times ; and always found it very rainy, and the Rains very violent. I remember when we touched there in our Return from Captain Sharp, we boiled a Kettle of Chocolate before we cleanM our Bark ; and having every Man his Callabash full, we began to sup it off, standing all the Time in the Rain; but I am confident not a Man among us all did clear his Dish, for it rained so fast and such great Drops into our Calla- bashes, that after we had sup'd off as much Chocolate and Rain- Water together as sufficed us, our Callabashes were still above half full; and I heard some of the Men swear that they could not sup it up so fast as it rained in, at last I grew tir*d with what I had left, and threw it away : and most of the rest did so likewise. As Clouds do usually hover over Hills and Mountsuns, so do they also keep near the Land. I have mentioned something of this in my "Voyage round the WcM-ld," Chap. X. Page 296, where I have said, that in maldng Land we commonly find it cloudy over the Land, tho' *tis clear every where beside: And this may still. confirm what I have said in the foregoing Discourse, that Hills are commonly clouded ; for high Land is the first discerned by us, and that, as I said before, is commonly clouded. 302 ASONS OF THE YEAR ^ But now 1 shall speak how we find the Clouds, when we arc but a little way trom Land, either coasting along the Shore, or at an Anchor by it. I hope the Reader will not imagine that I am going to prove that it never rains at Sea, or but very little there; for the contrary is known ^k) every Body, and I have already said in this Discourse ^Bf Winds in my first Chapter, That there are very frequent ^■"omaJoes In several Seas especially near the Equator, and ^^■orc particularly in the Atiantick Sea. Other Seas are not ^^B much troubled with them ; neither is the Atiantick so ^B> the North or South of the Line ; especially at any considerable Distance from the Shore, but yet 'tis very probable however, that the Sea has not so great a Portion of Tornadoes as the Land hath. For when we are near :hc Shore within the Torrid Zone, we often see it rain on the Land, and perceive it to be very cloudy there, when it is fair at Sea, and scarce a Cloud to be seen that way. And tho' we have the Wind from the Shore, and the Clouds seeming to be drawing off, yet they often wheel about again to the Land, as if they were magnetically drawn that way : Sometimes indeed they do come off a little ; but then they uMially cither return again or else insensibly vanish; and that's the Reason that Seamen when they are sailing near the Shore and see a Tornado coming off, they don't much miod it, but cry, " The Land will devour it : " But however, •omcttmcs they fly off to Sea ; and 'tis very rare that Tornadoes arise from thence ; for they generally rise first over the Land, and that in a very strange manner; for even from a very small Clnud arising over the top of a Hill, I have often seen it inaease to such a Bulk, that I have known it rain for two or three Days successively. This I have obscr\'cd both in the East and West-Indies, and in the South and North-Seas. And 'tis impossible for me to forget how oft I have been disturbed by such small Clouds that appeared in the Night. Tis usual with Seamen in those parts to sleep on the Deck, especially for Privateers; among whom I made these Observations. In ^Snntecn, especially when we are at an Anchor, the Deck ^blfirad with Mats to lie on each Night. Every Man has ■ 303 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS one, some two ; and this with a Pillow for the Head and a Rug for a Covering, is all the Bedding that is necessary for Men of that Employ. I have many times spread my Lodging, when the Evening has promised well, yet have been forced to with- draw before Day; and yet it was not a little Rain that would afright me then ; neither at its first coming could I have thought that such a small Cloud could afFord so much Rain : And oftentimes both my self and others have been so deceived by the Appearance of so small a Cloud, that thinking the Rain would soon be over, we have lain till wc were dropping wet, and then have been forced to move at last. But to proceed. I have constantly obseived, than in the wet season we had more Rain in the Night than in the Day : for tho* it was fair in the Day, yet we seldom escaped having a Tornado or two in the Night. If we had one in the Day, it rose and came away presently, and it may be we had an Hour's Rain, more or less; but when it came in the Night, though there was little Appearance of Rain; yet we should have it three or four Hours together; but this has commonly been nigh the Shore; and we have seen thick Clouds over the Land, and much Thunder and Lightning, and to our Appearance, there was more Rain there than we had ; and probably out farther oflF at Sea, there might be still less : For it was commonly pretty clear that way. 304 CHAP, vin Of Tiaes and Currents T%4 Difrrmtf httiMtn Tidn and Currenti. Ne Place in tbt Octan u/itkml Tidn, tVhtrt tht Tidfi are grtateitf and where smalUit. O/" iht Tidet in iht Harhour and Lagunei of Triit ,- in the Bay tf Campteiehj. Of these between the Cafei af Virginia, The Tidrt lit th Gi//)h af St. Michaei i and iht River of Guia^ui/y im iht Stulh-Sea. A mtilaien Opinion of a Subterranean Cam- ■Miiwu'wr ietuiten the North and Seuih-Seas, under the Jiikmiis •f Darim. Of the Tidet at the Gallapagoi Islands ; at Guam, »m tftht Ladronii : jfiout Panama ; In the Gulph of Dulce and Nietyo River ; on ikt Coast of Peru, in the West-Indies , and at Ttmfiutn f Uiiifrff and al Nrui-Hol/and, they are very irregular, A Giuu al the Reason of so great an Irregularity. Of the Tides ittween ilu Cape of Goad Hope and the Red-Sea. Of Currents. Tkty are inflneneed ty the Trade-IVind. Instances of them at BariadtfSy i^e. al Cape La Vela ; and Gratia de Dies. Cape Human, hie Trinidado, Surinam ; Capt Blanco ; between Africa and Brazil. Of Ceunter'Currenls. Of Currents in the Bay of Campeachj ; and of Mestica ; in the Gulph af Florida. Of tht Caemei. A'« tirange thing for ike Surface of the Water to run CMimltr to ill hwer Parts. Of the Currents on the Coast of Angtla, Bast of the Cape af Good Hope: On the Coast of India , North of tht line : And in the Soulh-Sea. f AVING treated of the Winds and Se^suns of the Year in the Torrid Zone, 1 now come to speak of the Tides and Currents there. And by the way Note. That, By Tides I mean Flowings and Ebbings of the Sea, on r off from any Coast. Which Property of the Sea seems > be univenal ; though not regularly alike on all Coasts, I to Time nor the Height of the Water. \ ¥OL. IL 305 tr A DISCOURSE OF WINDS By Currents I mean another Motion of the Sea, which is different from Tides in several Respects ; both as to its Duration, and also as to its Course. Tides may be compared to the Sea and Land-Breezes, in respect to their keeping near the Shore ; tho* indeed they alternately flow and ebb twice in 24 Hours. Con- trarily the Sea-Breezes blow on the Shore by Day» and the Land-Winds oflF from it in the Night ; yet they keep this Course as duly in a manner as the Tides do. Neither arc the Tides nor those Breezes far from the Land. Currents may be compared to the Coasting Trade- Winds, as keeping at some farther Distance from the Shore, as the Trade-winds do; and *tis probable they arc much influenced by them. *Tis a general Belief, especially among Seamen, That the Tides are governed by the Moon : That their Increase and Decrease, as well as their diurnal Motions, are influ- enced by that Planet ; tho' sometimes accidental Causes in the Winds may hinder the true Regularity thereof. We are taught, as the first Rudiments of Navigation, to shift our Tides ; i.e. to know the time of full Sea in any Place ; which indeed is very necessary to be known by all English Sailors, because the Tides are more regular in our Channel, than in other parts of the World. But my subject being to speak of the Tides within or near the Tropick, I leave those in places nearer England, to be discoursed on by Coasters, who are the only knowing Men in this Mystery : They having by experience gained more Knowledge in it than others ; and that is always the best Master. I have not been on any Coast in the World, but where the Tides have ebb'd and flow'd, either more or less ; and this I have commonly observed, that the greatest Indraughts of Rivers or Lagunes, have commonly the strongest Tides. Contrarily such Coasts as are least supplied with Rivers or Lakes have the weakest Tides ; at least they are not so perceptible. Where there are great Indraughts either of Rivers or Lagunes, and those Rivers or Lagunes are wide, though the Tide runs very strong into the Mouths of such 306 TIDES AND CURRENTS Bvers or Laguncs, yet ii docs not flow so high, as in such & where the Rivers or Lakes are bounded in a narrow Room, though the Tides dn run of an equal strength at the Mouths or Entrances of either. Neither do the Tides flow •o much on or about Islands remote from the Main Land, u they do on the Coasts of it. 1 shali first give some Instances of these general Obser- vations and then proceed to Particulars. The Places that I shall mention shall be such as 1 have been in my self, and where I have made the Observations before-mentioned; I shall begin with the Lagune of Trist, in the Bay of Campeachy. This Place is very remarkable, in that it has two Mouths of a considerable bigness; the one is about a Mile and half wide, and about two Mile through, before you come to a Lagune, which is seven or eight Leagues long, and three wide. The other Mouth is 7 Leagues from it, ind i^ about 2 Miles and half, or 3 Miles wide, and about ; Miles long, before it opens into the Lagune: Besides, farther within Land there are 3 or + more Lagunes less than the former. The Tides that flow or ebb in all the Lagunes pass in or out at the two Mouths before-mentioned, which makes •hem run very swift, insomuch that the Spaniards have named that great Lagune, Laguna Termina, or (he Lake of Tides ; because the Tides arc so very strong in those two Mouths. Yet, though the Tides do run so swift at the Mouth of the Lagune, they do not rise in height pro- portionable to that swiftness ; for the greatest Tides here io not riie or fall above 6 or 7 Foot, except forced by extraordinary Causes, as Storms, or the like : Of which 1 have spoken before. I could also instance in the Channel, between the 2 Capes of Virginia, where the Tides do run very swift ; yet The Floods and Ebbs are not proportionable to the swiftness ■if the Tides between the Capes. There are not indeed tuch Lagunes, as at Trist in the Bay of Campeachy ; but many wide Rivers, and abundance of smaller Besides, in some places there is low Land, which 307 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS is over-flown by the Tides ; so that all the Water that runs in with such swiftness within the Capes is insensibly swallowed up there. These are instances of strong Tides, occasioned by great Indraughts ; yet where there is but little rising and falling of the Water in comparison with the strength of the Tides at the Mouths of those Indraughts. I shall next give some Instances of the great Indraughts, where the Tides flow and ebb much more than in the former Places ; though the Tide at the Mouths of those Indraughts does not run swifter than in those Places before-mentioned. I shall only mention two Rivers in the South-Sea, that I have taken notice of in my " Voyage round the World," (viz.) the Gulph of St. Michael ; and the River of Guia- quil. In the Gulph of St. Michael there are many large Rivers, which all disembogue into a Lagune of 2 or 3 Leagues wide. This Lagune is barricadoed from the Sea with some small low Mangrovy Islands, and between them are Creeks and Channels, through which the Tides make their daily passes into the Lagune ; and from thence into the Rivers, and so back again ; many times over-flowing the said Islands, and leaving the tops of the lower Trees above Water. The Rivers that run into this Lagune are pretty narrow, and bounded on each side with steep Banks, as high as the Floods use to rise, and but very little higher. For at High-water, and on a Spring-tide, the Water is almost, or altogether even with the Land. The Lagune at the Mouth of the Rivers is but small, neither is there any other way for the Water to force it self into, beside the Lagune and Rivers ; and therefore the Tides do rise and fall here 1 8 or 20 Foot. The River of Guiaquil, in this respect, is much the same with the Gulph of St. Michael ; but the Lagunes near it are larger. Here the Tide rises and falls i6 Foot perpendicular. I don't know of any other such Places in all the South- Seas ; yet there are other large Rivers on the Coast, between 308 W OF TIDES AND CURRENTS hfacsc Places ; but none so remarkable for high Tides. The great Tides in the Gulph of St. Michael have doubtless been the occasion of that Opinion, which some hold, that there's a subterranean Communication between the N. and the South-Seas ; and that the Isthmus of Darien is like an Arched Bridge, under which the Tides make their constant Courses, as duly as they do under London- Bridge. And more to confirm this Opinion some have said, that there »rc continual and strange Noises made by those Subter- nocan Fluxes and Refluxes; and that they are heard by the Inhabitants of the Isthmus ; and also that Ships sailing in the Bay of Panama are toss'd to and fro at a prodigious rmtc : Sometimes (say they) they are by the boiling of the Water, dash'd against Islands ; and in a moment left dry there, or staved in pieces ; at other times they are drawn or suck'd up, as 'twere, in a Whirl-Pool and ready to be carried under Ground into the North-Seas, with all Sails standing. They have said also, that when the Tide flows, especially on a Spring, the Islands in the Bay are all over- flown ; nay, and even the Country for a great way together : snd then nothing is to be seen, but the tops of Trees. But if ihis were so, 'tis much that I and those that I was with, should not have heard or seen something of it : For I pa&s'd the Isthmus twice and was 23 Days in the last Trip that I made over it ; but yet did I never hear of any Noises under Ground there. I sailed also in the South- Seas (taking in both times that I was there) near 3 Years: and several Months of it I was in the Bay of Panama. And after I went away those of our Crew that remained there, spent a great deal more time in that Bay. Yet did xbey never meet with such strange Whirl-Pools, but found ts pleasant sailing there, as any where in the World. Neither did I ever hear any of the Spaniards or Indians make mention of any such thing in all my Converse with them ; which certainly they would have done, if they had ever experienced it, had it been only to terrific us, and ware us away from their Coasts. I remember indeed our Country-man Mr. Gage, gives iome hints of these strange Currents in this Bay, in his 3°9 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS Book, called, " A New Survey of the West-Indies," from P. 538 to 440, but I am afraid he took most of it upon trust from others; or else he was Sea-sick all that little Voyage : for he gives a very imperfect and lame Account of that Business, as if he understood not what he wrote. I should dislike his whole Book for that one Story's sake, if I did not know that he has written candidly upon other Matters; but I think I have said enough of this: To proceed then. As to the great Tides, which are reported to be in these Seas, I have given Instances of them, but they are not so great as is reported ; neither do they ebb and flow so much any where as in the Gulph of St. Michael only : where indeed they flow over those small low Mangrove Islands, at the Mouth of the Lagune, and leave only the tops of the low Trees above Water; for those Islands are very low, neither do they aflFord any high Trees. But however, the Islands at the Mouth of the Gulph, before you come to these low ones, are near over-flown ; yet arc they very small and low, in comparison with other Islands in the Bay of Panama. And indeed should the Islands in that Bay be over-flown, the City of Panama would soon be many Yards under Water. But so far is this from being true, that the Pearl Islands which are very flat and low, are yet never overflown. For there the Tide riseth and falls not above 10 or 11 Foot on a Spring, at the Southermost end of them, which is almost opposite to the Gulph of St. Michael, and not above 12 or 14 Leagues distant from it. And yet there it flows more than it docs at or near Panama, or any other Place in the Bay (except just at the Mouths of Rivers) by 2 or 3 Foot. Therefore all that report is wholly groundless. But to go on. I have also observed, that Islands lying afar oflF at Sea, have seldom such high Tides as those that are near the Main, or as any Places on the Main it self; as for example, at the Gallapagos Islands, which lie about icxD Leagues from the Main ; the Tides don't rise and fall above a Foot and half, or two Foot, which is less than they do on the 310 OF TTOES AND CURRENTS of the Main. For i : Plac of the Mai most ] nscs and tails 2 or 3 hoot, more or less according as the Coa&t is more or less exposed to Indraughts or Rivers. Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, is also another instance of this. There the Tide riscth not above 2 or 3 Foot at roost. In the Bay of Panama the Tides do keep a more constant and regular Course than on other Places on the Onsts of Peru and Mexico ; it was for that reason 1 called them Currents in some Places (mentioned in my "Voyage round the World," as particularly near Guatuico, on the Mexican Continent, in Chap. IX. Page 255) but it w« truly a Tide (which there I called a Current) and it acu to the Eastward as the Ebb doth to the West. The Tides there do rise and fall about 5 Foot, as they do on most part of that Coast. At Rio Lcja they rise and fall about eight or nine Fom. At Amapalla they also rise and fall about 8 or 9 Foot, and the Flood there runs to the East, and the Ebb to the West. In the Gulph of Dulce and Nicoya River, they rise to 10 or 1 1 Foot; but on the Coast of Peru they don't rise 10 high, especially on all the Coast between Cape St. Francis and the River Guiaquil ; there the Flood runs to the South, and the Ebb to the North. At the Island Plata the Tide rises and falls 3 or 4 Foot ; but from Cape Blanco, in about 3 d. South, to 30 d. South, the Tides arc smaller; there they rise and fall not above a Foot and a half, or 2 Foot. The Flood on this Coast sets to the South, and the Ebb to the North. In all my Cruisings among the Privateers, 1 took notice of the Risings of the Tides; because by knowing it, I always knew where we might best haul ashore and clean fiur Ships: which is also greatly observed by all Privateers. In most Places of the West-Indies, the Tide flows but little over what it docs in our Channel. In the East-Indies also the Tides are but small on moat Coasts, neither arc they so regular as with us. The most irregular Tides that I did ever meet with, 3" A DISCOURSE OF WINDS are at Tonqueen in about 20 d. North Latitude, and on the Coast of New-Holland, in about 17 d. South. In both these Places, the neap Tides are scarce discemable. Those of Tonqueen are described at large by Mr. Daven- port, who was imployed by Mr. James when he was Chief of the English Factors there, to observe them : And the whole Discourse is published in "The Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society '* : whither I refer you. At New-Holland I had two Months time to observe the Tides. There the Flood runs E. by N. and the Ebb W. by S. And they rise and fall about five Fathom. In all the Springs that we lay here, the highest were three Days after the Full or Change, and that without any perceptible Cause in the Winds or Weather. I must confess we were startled at it ; and though some of us had observed it in the Springs, that happened while wc lay on the Sand to clean our Ship, (as I have mentioned in my former Volume, Entituled, " A new Voyage round the World," Ch. XVI. Page 457), yet in that Spring that we designed to haul off, in order to be gone from thence, we did all take more particular Notice of it than in the preceding Springs; for many had not taken notice of it before : And therefore the Major-part of the Company, supposing that it was a Mistake in us who made those former Observations, expected to haul off the Ship the third Tide after the Change ; but our Ship did not float then, nor the next Tide neither, which put them all into an Amazement, and a great Consternaticfn too : For many thought we should never have got her off at all, but by digging away the Sand ; and so clearing a Passage for her into the Sea. But the sixth Tide cleared all those Doubts; for the Tide then rose so high, as to float her quite up ; when being all of us ready to work, we haulM her off; and yet the next Tide was higher than that, by which we were now all throughly satisfied, that the Tides here do not keep the same time as they do in England. This I must also observe. That here was no River, nor Lagune, nor any other Indraught on the Land near us, that might occasion these great Tides; tho* 'tis very 312 E OF TIDES AND CURRENTS that the great Bending between New-Holland and New-Guinea, may have both Rivers and Lagunes, which may cause these great Tides; or else there may be 1 Passage of the Sea between both Places; as it is laid down in some Draughts : Or if neither of these, there may be at least a large and deep Sound, This is the more probable, because of the extraordinary 'lood that sets to the East-ward in all that Sea, between few-Holland, and the Islands lying North of it, which most sensibly perceived, when we were near New- olUnd : And such a Tide as this must of Necessity hive a greater Indraught than barely a River or Lagune; and 'tis the more likely still, that this Tide should have a Passage through between New-Holland and New-Guinea, <ir at least a deep Sound there; because it keeps along by the Main, and doth not run in among the Islands to the North of it. And besides, the Northermost Promon- tory of New-Holland shoots down almost to the Litte, which seems tn be a Barrier to it on that side ; therefore it may in Reason be supposed to have its Passage some other way ; but of this guess, I have said enough. In the Sireights of Malacca the Flood sets to the East, and the Ebb to the West. I have found the Tides at Malacca Town, to rise and fall about six Foot on a Spring. I had the Experience of two Spring-Tides, when I was Captain Minchin's Mate, as is before-mentioned in my Voyage from Achin to Malacca. On the East-side of the African Coast, between the Cape of Good Hope and the Red-Sea ; the Tide keeps its constant Course. The Flood runs to the Southward ; the Ebb to the Northward. And at a Spring-tide in the Kjvcn on that Coast, the Tide rises and falls six Foot, especially in the River of Natal, in Lat. 30 d. South. 1 have this Relation from Capt. Rogers, who is a very ingenious Person, and well experienced on that Coast ; and is now gone Commander of a small Vessel thither to trade. Having already largely treated of Tides, I come now to speak somewhat of Currents. 313 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS Currents and Tides differ many ways; for Tides run forward, and back again, twice every twenty four Hours: on the contrary Currents run a Day a Week, nay, some- times more, one way: and then, it may be, run another In some particular Places they run six Months one wav, and six Months another. In other Places they constantly run one way only t day or two, about full Moon, and then they run stroi^ against the former Course; and after that, return the same way again. In some Races they run constantly one way, and never shift at all. The Force of Tides is generally felt near the Shore ; whereas Currents are at a remote Distance; neither are the Effects of them sensibly discerned by the rising or falling away of the Water as those of the Tides are ; for these commonly set along Shore. *Tis generally observed by Seamen, that in all Places where Trade-winds blow, the Current is influenced by them, and moves the same way with the Winds; but *tis not with a like Swiftness in all Places; neither is it always so discemable by us in the wide Ocean, as it is near to some Coast; and yet it is not so discemable neither, very near any Coast, except at Capes and Promontories, that shoot far forth out into the Sea; and about Islands also the Effects of them are felt more or less, as they lye in the way of the Trade-Winds. I shall Instance Barbadoes for one, and all the Caribbees may as well be included. The greater Islands, as Hispaniola, Jamaica and Cuba have only some particular Capes or Head-Lands, exposed to Currents, as Cape Tiberoon on Hispaniola, Point Pedro, and the N. E. Point of Jamaica, Cape de Cruz, Cape Corientes, and Cape Antonios on Cuba : But of ail the Islands in the West-Indies there are none more sensible of Currents than Corrisao and Aruba, nor any Capes on the Continent so remarkable for Currents as Cape Roman, which shoots out against the Sea, between those two Places, as also Cape 3H ^^" OF TIDES AND CURRENTS Coquibzco and Cape La Vela to Leeward, all three on the «ainc Head-Land, which shoots forth far, without any other Land on the Coast. There is no such Head-Land till you come to Cape Gratia dc Dios, which is about 260 Leagues to Lee- ward. Indeed to the Eastward there is Land that trends out almost so far, within 1 50 Leagues of it : (Viz.) The Island Trinidado and the Land against it ; and there also are great Currents. But I shall first speak of the Currents between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dio». The Currents at Cape La Vela do seldom shift, there- fore Ships that ply to Windward to get about it, do not ply near the Shore, but stand off to Sea, till they come in Sight of Hispaniola, and then back again, till within about six or eight Leagues of the Cape, but not nearer. But in the Westerly Wind-Season, which is from October till March, Ships often meet Westerly Winds that last two or three Days with which they may run to the Eastward, without any Trouble. Between Cape La Vela and Cape Gratia de Dios, the Currents are much different from what they arc against the Cape : and this seems to proceed from the Make of the Land ; for the Shore between the two Capes, runs into the Southward, making the great Bay : And this Bay affords more Varieties of Winds and Currents, than any one part of the West-Indies besides. Here, in the Westerly Wind-Season, the Current sets to the Westward constantly ; but sometimes stronger than at other times. At about four Leagues off Shore, you find it, and $0 it continues till you are 20 25, or 30 Leagues off. Beyond that you meet with an Easterly Wind ; and if there is any Current it runs also to the Westward : therefore Ships that are bound to the Wcst- *»rd, must run off to Sea thirty or forty Leagues to get a '•^'ind, or else if they have but a little way to go, they must :1t close under the Shore, that so they may anchor when : Otherwise they will be carried ; away 1 , fourteen or sixteen Leagues in a Night's time ; 3"5 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS and that too, though they have a faint Easterly Wind, as frequently they meet with, though *tis the Westerly Wind- Season. To the East of Cape Roman, as high as the Island Trinidado, you meet only a soaking faint Current, setting to the Westward, except only near such places as shootout farthest into the Sea, as about the Testcgos, which arc small Islands lying to Wind-ward of the Island Margarita. Between those Islands and the Main, you meet with a pretty strong Current : therefore it is hard getting to the Eastward there ; but on all the Coast, between Cape Roman and the Head-Land, shooting out towards the Testcgos, you may ply up with the Land and Sea-Breezes. From thence, till you come as high as the East-end of Trinidado Isle, you meet with an extraordinary strong Current. From the East-end of Trinidado, till you come to Surinam, though you meet an Easterly Current, yet 'tb possible to beat it up with the Land and Sea-Breezes. From Surinam also to Cape Blanco, you may turn it up, though to be sure youMl meet with Currents setting to the West ; except near the Full of the Moon ; and then on all the Coasts before mentioned, we commonly meet with Currents, setting to the Eastward ; at least then it slackens and stands still, if it doth not run to the Eastward But when you are come as far to the East as Cape Blanco, on the North of Brazil, you meet with a Current always against you ; and so from thence Southerly, as far as Cape St. Augustine. There is no dealing with this Promontory; for it shoots out so far into the Sea, and thereby lies so exposed to the Sea-Breezes and the Currents, that soak down between Africa and Brazil, that it is quite contrary to Reason to think there should not always be a strong Current setting to the N. W. I have before hinted. That in all Places where the Trade blows, we find a Current setting with the Wind, which is not so perceptible in the wide Sea as nearer the Shores : yet even there the Force of the Winds constandy OF TIDES AND CURRENTS Iring one way, may, and probably does, move the ftce aS the Water along with It. From hence it may be inferred, that the Southerly ds on the Coast of Africa, and the true Trade between id Brazil, gently move the surface of the Sea with it, the Trade being mostly at S, E. drives the Sea to the thward, slanting in on the Coast of Brazil ; which being ; stopp'd by the Land, bends its Course Northerly rds Cape St. Augustine: And after it has doubled : great Promontory, it falls away more gently towards Coast of Surinam; and from thence towards the West- . For after it has doubled that Promontory, it has room to spread it self, and thereby becomes weaker Motion, being agitated by the Trade-winds, which to North of the Line, we find commonly blowing at N. E. and this still bears the Sea slanting down along Coast to the Westward. And probably 'tis for this ion, that wc find the Current setting strongest near e Head-Lands before-mentioned. Whereas at Barba- \, and other of the Caribbee-Islands, we find only a ing Current, such as seems to arise only from the stancy of the Trade-winds blowing there, and not from Original Current, from the South-part of the Atlantick : ich, as 1 said before, doubles about Cape St. Augustine, , fo coasts along pretty nigh the Shore. The Currents about the Island Trinidado, and at and Aruha as also between them and Cape Roman B to indicate as much. The Currents also between ic Roman, and Cape La Vela indicate the same. From Cape La Vela the Currents set still to the West- d, towanls Cape Gratia de Dios; but in a direct Line, not borrowing or slanting in towards the Shore. For, «aid before, ic is a large Bay, and Currents commonly from one Head-Land to another ; so that Bays have Uxn any; or if they have, they arc only Counter- treats. And these Counter-Currents too do set from ! Point to another, without interfering with the little between. And 'tis also very probable that these itcr-CarrcniB, such as we meet with in this Bay, in 317 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS their Seasons, after they have surrounded the Bay, and arc got as far to the East as Cape La Vela, wheel ofF there, and turn about again with the Stream to the Westward, like an Eddy in a River. From Cape Gratia de Dios the Current sets awayN.W. towards Cape Catoch, and so passes away to the Northward, between Cape Catoch on Jucatan, and Cape Antonio on Cuba. In the Channel between those two Capes, wc commonly find a strong Current setting to the Northward : And here I have found them extraordinary strong. On the North-side of Jucatan, as you pass into the Bay of Campeachy, you meet with a small soaking Current to the Westward, even down to the bottom or the Bay of Mexico ; but on the North-side of the Bay of Meidco the Current sets to the Eastward : And 'tis probable that is the reason, that the Spaniards, coming from La Vera Cruz, keep that shore aboard. And 'tis as probable that the Current, which sets to Leeward, on all the Coast from Cape St. Augustine to Cape Catoch, never enters the Bay of Mexico ; but bends still to the Northward, till 'tis check'd by the Florida shore; and then wheels about to the East, till it comes nearer the Gulph's Mouth, and there joyning with the soaking Current that draws down on the North-sides of Hispaniola and Cuba, passes altogether with great strength through the Gulph of Florida, which is the most remarkable Gulph in the World for its Currents ; be- cause it always sets very strong to the North. Yet near the shores on each side this Gulph, there are Tides, especially on the Florida shore ; and Ships may pass which way they please, if they are acquainted. It has formerly been accounted very dangerous to meet with a North in this Gulph ; and for that Reason our Jamaica Ships to avoid them, have rather chosen to go to the Eastward, and pass through the Cacuses ^ in the Season that the Norths do blow. The Cacuses are Sands that lye oflF the N. W. end of Hispaniola. Those that went from * Caicos. 318 W OF TIDES AND CURRENTS Brt-Royal in Jamaica had gooct Reason for this; for if a Inforth took them at their going out, it would help them forward in ihcir way, which, should they have been going towarJs the Gulph, it would obstruct them. Then besides, if a North take a Ship in the Gulph, the Wind blowing against the Current makes an extraordinary Sea, and so thick come the Waves one after another that a Ship can't possibly live in it ; yet of late they go through at all times of the Year, and if a North takes them in the Gulph, they put away right before the Wind and Sea, with a small Head-Sail ; yet the Current is then as strong or stronger then at other times ; and forces them back, stern foremost against both Wind and Sea : For tho' the surface of the Sea is raised in Waves and driven violently with the Winds to the Southward, yet the Current underneath runs still to the Northward ; neither is it any strange thing to see two difiercnt Currents at one place and time, the superficial Water running one way, and that underneath running a quite contrary : For sometimes at an Anchor, I have seen tile Cable carryed thus by two different Streams, the under part having been doubled one way, and the upper part the contrary. But 'tis ccruin, in all other pans of the World, ihe Current shifts at certain times of the Year; As in the East-Indies they run from East to West one part of the Year, and from West to East the other part : Or as in the West-Indies and Guinea, where they shift only near a Full Moon. This is meant of parts of the Sea near any Coast ; Wl there are strong Currents in the wide Ocean also, fc"*«g contrary to the Rules before-going : I mean against ^B Trade ; but 'tis not common. B On the Coast of Guinea the Current sets East, except tt or near a full Moon ; but to the South of the Line from Louigo, to 25 or 30 d. the Current sets with the Wind ttoat 5. to N. except near the Full. To the PUstward of the Cape of good Hope, from , South, to 24 d. South, the Currents from May till i aa E. N- E. and the Winds then are at W, S. W. or . bur from Oct, till May, when the Winds arc between E. N. E. «nd E. S. E. the Currents run to the West. 3'9 A DISCOURSE OF WINDS These Currents are thus found from 5 or 6 Leagues off the shore to about 50. Within 5 Leagues off the Shore you have the Tide, and not a Current ; and being past 50 Leagues off Shore, the Current either ceaseth quite, or is imperceptible. On the Coast of India, North of the Line, the Current sets with the Monsoon, but does not shift altogether so soon, sometimes not by 3 Weeks or more, and then never shifts again till after the Monsoon is settled in the contrary way. As for Example, the West Monsoon sets in the middle of April, but the Current does not shift till the beginning of May : So when the East Monsoon sets in about the middle of September, the Current does not shift till October. In the South-Seas on the Coast of Peru, the Current sets from South to North, even from 30 d. to the line, and to 3 or 4d. North of it. At the Gallapagos Islands we found a soaking Current, not very strong, but so strong that a Ship could get very little by turning ; and 'tis probable that nearer the Main, they are stronger because of the constant Southerly Winds. The most remarkable Places for Currents in the South- Seas ; are Cape St. Francis, Cape Passao, Cape St. Laurence and Cape Blanco. This last has commonly very strong Currents setting to the N. W. which hinders Ships mightily; and the more because it is a very windy place; so that many times Ships are not able to carry their To{>-saiIs ; and then it is but bad plying to Windward against a Current I had not so much Experience of the Mexican Coast, be- cause we commonly kept within the Verge of the Tides. But on the Coast of Guatamala, in the Lat. of I2d. 50 m. and 13 d. we had a Current setting S. W. and it is prd>able that there also the Current sets with the Winds. For, as it is before noted, the Currents on all Coasts sets as the coasting Trade does. And thus have I finished what my own Experience, or Relations from my Friends, have furnished me with on this useful Subject of Winds, Tides, Currents, &c- which I humbly offer, not as a compleat and perfect Account, but 320 OF NATAL IN AFRICK a rude and imperfect Beginning or Specimen of what lay better be done by abler Hands hereafter. And 1 hope bis may be useful so far as to give a few Hints to direct c more accurate Observation of others. - ftBe^/itf Pafcr, eoniam'mg a ihcrl DtKnfi/hn of a part af Africl that ir moi vrdi ktuKun le Eun^ani, I ibau^hi loeulil not he maeteptable lo thf rarwui Rrai/rr, / have iherrfore annfxitt !l, at I rrcnved U from my iagtuitmi Friaui Caft. Ragtri, vibo it laltlj gone lo thai Place : and bMk ittn liere te^ral timei before. rHb Cotmuy ofNaul titM about 3 d. and half of Lai. Trom N. to S. lying betwwo th<r Lat. of 3 1 d. jo m. South and 18 N. 'Tis Msdcd on the S. by a Country inhabited by a small Nation of Savage 'r»pk, ulkd by out Engli>h, Wild-bush Men. that live in Cave» and in lok* of Rocki, and ha*e no other House), but tuch as are formed by laOffr : Thry vc of > low Stature, uuoy-colour'd, with crisped Hair : ?b«y are accounted »ery cruel to iheir Enemies. Their Weapons are !»*• wd Poiaoncd Arrowt. These People have for their Neighbours on & fhe Hotiantou. Delhgoa is a Navigable River in L.tt. iS. S. that d* Natal on the N. The Inhabitaois of (his Rivet have a Commerce ifec Pinngucae uf Muumbique, who oft viiit them in small Barks, and ; lfc«r fix Ulqihanti Tieth; which they have great Plenty. .Some Ui too have Utrly hrcn there to purchase I'ecth, paiticularly Caiit. k,' jnM iDCBtion'd in my former Volume, Ch. 1 8, P. 494, who aner ■1 beco ID the River of Dellagoa, aiui purchased H or 10 Tun of Ik IcMt hi* Ship OD a Rock near Madag^ucar. The Country of Naul ipcB to tbe lodiaa Sea on the East, but how far back it runs to the Hnfd b iK>t y« known. fbtf p«t of tbe Country which respects the Sea ii plain Champion and Ij I b« within Land it a|>pears more uneven, by reaion of many Hills h mt b DDei]ual Height! above each other. Yet it is interlaced with Mt Valley* and large Plains, and 'tis checker'*] with Natural Groves hwwaha. Neither is there any want of Water ; for every Hill affordi Bnolu, which glide down several ways \ some of which after several IIM and Windings, meet by degrees and make up the River of Natal, fc Mcfaatjtcth it self into the Eait-Indiao Ocean in the Lat. of 30 d. "u Tbde it opens pretty wide and is deep enough for small Vetseli. I tte Movth of the River is a Bar which has not above ten or eleven Water on it in a Spring-tide ; though within there is Water enough. River it ibc Principal of the Cnuntry of Natal, and has been lately aud bjr tome of out Ivnglish Shi[i« particularly by a amall Vessel that b VLofga*, formerly meDtioned, commaaded. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES There are also other Streams and Rivers, which beod their Coursei Northerly, especially one of a considerable Bigness about lOO Mile within Land, and which runs due North. The Woods are composed of divers sorts of Trees ; many of which are very good Timber, and fit for any uses, they being tall and large. The Savannahs also are cloathed with kindly thick Grass. The Land- Animals of this Country are Lyons, Tygers, Elephants, Buffaloes, Bullocks, Deer, Hogs, Conies, &c. Here are also Abandance of Sea^Horses. Bu&loes and Bullocks only are kept tame, but the rest are all wild. Elephants are so plenty here that they feed together in great Troops; looo to I jcx> in a Company ; Mornings and Evenings they are seen grazing in the Savannahs, but in the Heat of the Day, they retire into the Woods, and they are very peaceable if not molested. Deer are very numerous here also. They feed quietly in the Savanoabs among the tame Cattle, for they are seldom disturbed by the Natives. Here are Fowls of divers sorts ; some such as we have in England, viz. Duck and Teal, both tame and wild: and plenty of Cocks and Heos* Besides Abundance of wild Birds, wholly unknown to us. Here are a sort of large Fowls as big as a Peacock, which have many fine coloured Feathers. They are very rare and shy. There are others like Curlews, but bigger. The flesh of these is black, yet sweet and wholesome Meat. The Sea and Rivers also do abound in Fish of divers Sorts; yet the Natives do but seldom endeavour to take any, except Tortoises ; and tbat is chiefly when they come ashore in the Night to lay their Eggs. Though they have also another very odd way, which they sometimes make use of to catch Turtle or Tortoises. They take a liviog sucking Fish or Reoiora, and fastning a couple of strings to it, (one at the Head and the other at the Tail) they let the sucking Fish down into the Water on the Turtle Ground, among the half-grown or young Turtle : and when they find that the Fish hath fastned himself to the back of a Turtle, as he will soon do, they then draw him and the Turtle up together: This way of Fishing (as I have heard^ is also used at Madagascar. The Natives of this Country are but of a middle Stature, yet have nfj good Limbs : The Colour of their Skins is black ; their Hair crisped: thej^ are oval visaged: their Noses neither flat nor high, but very well pro* portioned : their Teeth are white, and their Aspect is altogether gracefbl. They are nimble People, but very lazy : which probably is for want w Commerce. Their chief Employment is Husbandry. They have a great many Bulls and Cows, which they carefully look after; for every Mao knows his own, though they run all promiscuously together io tbdr Savaonahs, yet they have Pens near their own Houses, where they make them gentle and bring them to the Pail. They also Plant Corn, and tenet in their Fields to keep out all Cattle as well tame as wild. They have Guinea Corn, which is their Bread ; and a small sort of Grain no bigger than Mustardseed, with which they make their Drink. Here are no Arts nor Trades professed among them, hot every one 322 OF NATAL IN AFRICK • lor hinMcIf luch Neccwiritt, m Need or Oroameat requires, the Men !■( to ilirir IlmpJoTnicoi, and the Women to [hcir«. ~' ' Men build Knutn, Hum, Plant, and do what is lo be done And ilie Women Milk ihc Cow., drew the Victuali, &c. and ; ill Mmich wiihio Doori. Their Houks are not great not richly i but tbcy ue nude clo*e and well thatched, that nrithet Winds fr "Wrttbft an hurt ihcm. F They wear but few Cloithi, and those extraordinary mean. The men I I> a RBHier naked, (heir common Garb being only a square piece of ; with Sdk^Grau, or Moho-Rind, and wrought in form of a fcMt Aproo. Ai the upper Coram it has iwo itrapt lo lye round iheir Wmm i mmJ the lowet-eiid being finely fringed with the same hingi down ■Arir Knao. ^■Thrv bMC CajM made with Beef Tallow of about nine or ten Inches Bb Thry art ■ great while of making thcte Capa ; for [he Tallow must mwnie wtrj pore, before 'lis fit for ihit use. Besides they lay on but a Eldr at a tune and mis it finely among the Hair ; and so it nrver afterwards BMHa off tbdi Hcidi. When they go a hunting, which is but seldom, they fU» at ikrM or four Inche* from the lop of it, that ki it may lit the H the next Day ihry begin to build it up again, and so they do ""l 'tis of * decern and fashionable height. t bt ■ mo« ridiculous thi^ for a Mao here to be seen without ^_^ "_ But Boyi arc not luflcted to wear any, till they come lo ^^aad then they begin to build upon their Heads. The Women ka>c o^ tbort Petticoats, which reach from the Wasie lo the Knee. VhcB k raia* they cover their Bodies with a simple Cows-hide, thrown r tbdr Shoulders like a Blankri. u Snhfitiencc of these People is Bread made of Guinea Corn, I. Milk, Ducks, Hens, Rggs, &c. They also drink Milk olteo It ihnr Thirst : aad this sometimes when it is sweet, but commonly • tower first. Qk, which is the common Drink, they make a belter son of t mcDlioned, purposely to be merry with. And when h Occaiioni, the Men make themscUcs extraordinary line, t stuck into their Caps tcry thick. They make use of the long 1 of Cocki TaiU, and none else. tbrsr Hrad-Orn.tntents ihry wear a piece of Cow-hide, made 1 'lis fasteneil behind ilirra as a Tail, reachmg Irom their I GrnuMl. This piece of Hide it about six Indies broad, and ia adoraed with little Iiuo Rin>;9 of their own making. f are thus attired, ihcir Heads a liillc intoxicated and ihe , they'll skip abuui mrrril*, and shake their TjiU ti> some T very inaoccnt in their Mirth. nay hare as many Wives as he can purchase and maintain : t faayiag bere are dodt to be had: neither is there any ** y to b» bought or aold but Women. I of by their Fathers, Brothers, or nearest TIm prict ii according to the Deiiity of the Damsel. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES They have no Money in this Country, bat give Cowt in exchange for Wives : And therefore he is the richest Man that has roost Daughters or Sisters : for to be sure he will get Cattle enough. They make merry when they take their Wives ; but the Bride cries all her Wedding Day. They live together in small Villages, and the oldest Man governs the rest ; for all that live together in one Village are a-kin, and therefore willingly submit to his Government. They are very just and extraordinary civil to Strangers; This remarkably experienced by two English Seamen that lived aoKNig them fivi Years; their Ship was cast away on the Coast, and the rest of Consoru marched to the River of Dellagoa; but they stayed here Captain Rogers accidentally came hither and took them away with hii^^ They had gained the Language of the Country : and the Natives ^e^.^ gave them Wives and Cows too. They were beloved by all the Pra^l^ and so much reverenced that their Words were taken as Laws. And wKei] they came away, many of the Boys cried because they would not take them with them. FINIS 324 FERS AND PAPERS RELATING TO THE NEW HOLLAND VOYAGE UDCiD PKOM Tilt Originals in the Public Record Office) TAIN DAMPIER'S PROPOSALS OF HIS PRO- CEEDING ON THE INTENDED VOYAGE, n. d. . Mt Lov\ — Yoor l.'ibip haa been pleased to order me lo make a e TOjagc whrrcin I might be serviccjble to my Nation. I r thm ut tin»\ placu which mighi probably be viiiied with good ruge: but m there u no larger Tract of Land hjtherio undiscovered w Ttrra jfmrtraSi (if that «Ml apace lurrounding ye South Pole, and w bt iaio ft warmer Climilc be a continued Land, ai a great ^1 of ii M kmim to be) ao 'ti* reaionable to cooceive yt so great a part 'At World M not without verif valluable commoditiei lo incourage ye '•■i.iiHij, and peat variety of ym according to ye variouE Latitudca in "* ««ch Counireyt are (cited, whether ihcy be comenent or iiland ; and of Jc4 ye nroc kiadeti probiblv, a> are produced in Conntryea of yftla, 9^%J,or ,4mttita of ye aame Latitude). An attempt upon ye unknown I^^Oiaf }1 pun of ye World, haa y* 1u recommend it, yt none of our r shall we • wheatlicr ye 5 be onde toward* ye Eaai or WcM of ye meridian there being a VOcna etthn wit. I Aid for aich a DucoTtry aa ihii 1 mjy he more panicularly <]uali(ied perimce I hare already gainrd In former Voyageii: the Mafwtikti haa lain much among unknown thorei ami tavage nation*. I be pitcbrd d« fw an Kxpedition of thia kinde I would deaite to hate 'am nnlimiied ai might be W*^ rcipect either to Ttmr or Ptact : 1 attempt to full of ditficnlriei, 'tit impouibie d Accideoli w** may rrquire ye goeing aomewhat aiide t IVindpkU Desipwt aod nuy at the aame time offer a yet more k Ofcrtaaity of aomc Collaierall OneoTery. I would deiire but i I whI provided of all Deceatariea: and coniidriing ye Temptationi SMtn lia>r lud af W ta break looae and iuid pirate when they r imo J* Btiber pan* of ye World I thould be glad yt tome good It nfhl be i^opoacd lO tbote whoe ihould {oe in thi* Voyage r renuo. But tbcae thinga and otlier oecetaary Cjrcumatancc* I jT'wiiai jtmtnta oi yr lamc i^aiiiuue). n.n aiiempi upon ^ "^ naof yt un of ye World, haa y* 1u recommend it, yt ^^UfMH Ne^hboor* Ca« think ihemielTca injured thereby : i !^i M mt tfnt with any of ym eren in ye piiuge thither, J hthi^ UhiiliiK M ■>>« niilaiii ol ib> pita ■«■ awmy wtib iW «hlp at atiaai ihli lime. 3»5 '. ATCI7, who dtpoar^ hli explain CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES would leaye to yo' Lordships further consideration, if in the meantime the Expedition it self be approved of: and as to yt alsoe and ye panicukn relating to it I may be better able to satisfie your L^ship by word of moath. (No signature, no endorsement.) 2. My Lou>, — I formerly acquainted yo' L^hip that the Discoferj I would chuse to goe uppon should be to ye remoter part of the Eiut InSa Islands and the neighbouring Coast of Terra Austra&s^ and that for this purpose I would be furnished with two small Ships, a Commissioo u unlimmetted as might be, and the Seamen assured of good Incouragemeot upon their return etc. : I cannot expect to return to England in less than three yeares, therefore it would not only be convenient to carry out as much proTision as is possible in our own Ship, but it would be well if thoie Ships also that are to return again after the expedition is over should cany some provision extraordinary purposely for us as much at least as wooki last us six monethes : there is indeed good store of Beef at Madagascar^ if the Pirats have not made it scarce and dear, and we might expect to life on fresh meat while wee are there and salt som if we should have ocasion. And if we may be suplyed either with Engtuh provision out of our own Squadron or els with beef and rice from Madagascar, I should (runn,or range) ^ over directly from thence to the northermost part of New HoRad where I would water if I had occasion, and from thence I would range toward New Guinnia. There are many islands in that sea between New No/land and New Guinnia which are not frequented by any Europeans, and it is probable that we may light upon some or other that are not without Spice ; should I meet with nothing on any of these Islands I would range along the Main of New Guinia to see what that aforded ; and from theme I would cross over to the East side of the Is/and Gilolo where I may be in- formed of the state of these parts by the Natives who speak the MalmoM language : From Gilolo I would range away to the Eastward of New Gnak and so direct my course southerly coasting by the land, and where I founds harbour or river I would land and seek about for men and other AoimaU) Vigetables, Mineralls, etc., and haveing made what discovery I could I would (two words erased) return home by the way of Terra del fitega This is the course I would take if I can be suplyed with provision from ye Squadron or from Madagascar ; But if I should be forced to goe to any of ye Factoryes in In£a to recruit and victuall; Fort St, Geerp (Madras) is the place where we may best be provided with beef and porkCf if I might touch there without any troublesome examination, and as ftwr rice I could supply myself with that in my way. From Fort St. George I must pass the Streights of Malacca and then I would stretch to the Eait- ward as far as the Bashee Islands where I could furnish myself with porl^ which must be purchased with iron, from thence I would sail to the Eait of Luconia and all the Philipine Islands and soe to Meangis Island^ and froo thence I would bend my cours toward New Guinnia and Terra Jtutrvt} and soe home as before, this is much the longer way ; If I should happen to come where Spice is to be had it mutt be purchased with East India comodityes (viz.) long cloath, Chints, Ginghaffli 1 Word illegible. 326 LETTERS AND PAPERS : Tbe Curope coaiodityn y* [ thoutd want tn thi) *oy>gc ii chiefly bun bnt(lc«ix«,hitcheiu, knitc* rtc. and iImc brads, looking gbun, nch like utyt* ill whkh are cOTctcd u well by people uted (o trade tt (So niBaiurc. Auio);nph throughout. Eodortcd Capt Dampkr'i of hi* Proceeding on hi» intended Voyage.) Om lie jci Jmu, i6<jS, Dampter wrote a hurried Krawl to the Secrr- M ** m y« Ri boa"* the Lordi of ihe Admiralty," telling them that had hcca oo board the Ja^ Pme, and had itrictly lUfTcyrd her ; but did ' tUnk her "any way fin for the icrtice intended " ; adding that he meant ■tarn 10 town " to give ray Lordi further latiifaction in thii aifair." Ji^ 6, 1698. A note 10 the Secretary to the Lordi CommissiunerB IIn Adaibaliy uving that he had riewrd the Jo/Ij Prite, and " found ■hocetber nnfittt *he '* being >u imill that the cannot itow proviiion* ■gfc far «Dch oumbrr of men ai will be required to navigate her, neither bnr coovcBicace in bcr for many Lodging! and (xhrr accoratnodjtioiu." Cw/Mu, 11,/. 448: tV~- Damfacr'i catixry fattf^J iir tinart. " After oui liearty Comcodaconi ^^ heccat "W"- Damfner ua That be it an t^xtriot''' Land Carriage Man in ye Loadoa lod U Ordered 10 Sc.i upon publick Srrvice, And therefore Ua lallary may be continued and paid to his Wife, Which retjuett ■Bf willing to comply w***, Thrse arc to pray and require you to he Sallary of ye S^ W*- Dampirr to be continued for him on yc lent and paid quarieiljr to bii A'lignei notwiihtianding hii intendri. Be* for which ibit ahall be your Warr*. "([mtialled)C. M. J.S. T. L. ■Cbckritt Treaty Chimb" 16th Aug '98." ^^ptt 37> ifiyS. A letter to the nine itattng that the maMcr appointed he Ttttmri wa> " a very Old man and therefore iocap;tt>le of performing k> ■ Wfgt," whereu *' one Jn° Knight Gun' of ye Dunweh " would be ■ far ye taid Employ." He anki that the uid Knight may be 'froia ibe Dmatifah. "The Ship (the ftetlud) it now almod cxprct tbe Carv" will have done aboard her thi* day, and ahall liona Is tale 10 proiUiua 10 aoon at we have gott our Iron I bare gott fonrty Six mtn." Lelltr in lie eltri't hanJ. (Signed) »'-■ Dampitr. 1696. A letter to the lamc, complaining that the complement ( the /fofjwi ("bring but fiflv") will not be lufficirnt : but that iBtn am) abooi twenty guni' would enable thrtn "to m^ke lome t in cake of any oppotitioo." J^llrr in a ilrri'i hand. M vtry (Slgntd) #'-■ Damfirr. \Stflfmiir j, ifetfM. ToMy Lard(Orfer>l?} Dampier baa imw "gott" hii 3»7 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES iltjnen; bat ttill dank* them too few, aiid therefore hopet hii Lordihip will co i Minur hii care ** and order me tTcaty men and zo Gobs." The matter he desred (John Knight) **iM come to town in order to be examio'd" ** The Carp*" hawe alfanoa done their work aboard and I hope to ha?e in my Iron ballast and aome Frorisioo this week," at anyrate ^ I shaU me all diligence to be goeing." LxtUr m clerk* s bamiL (Signed) W^ Damfier. S£ptamieris,i6gS. ** Rodmci'* ai DrpifonL To the Secretary of the Admiralty. Dampier will obaenre his direction touching officers' •erfantk The ship still wants some iron work, and Dampier awaits instructions as to the taking in of sea prcmsions before dropping down the riyer. He has got his complement of men. Clerk* s letter. (Signed) /F*** Damfier, Sifieader 22, 1698. «" RoAmck,** DeptfanL To the same. Acknow- ledges receipt of an CMtler of the i6th instant, ** touching Mareen Souldien,*' which Dampier will ''take care to comply with so soon" as he has any of them on board. He has taken in ten tunas of sea beer, most of his boatswaini' and carpenter's stores, is now filling his water, and awaits the rest of hb provision. <<The wind is at W.S.W." Cierk^s bmuL DamfUi't ligmatmr. Septamker 27, 1698. To the same. Reminds the Secretary how the Lords of the Admiralty had been pleased (''upon my mencooing the Lowness of my present circumstances ") to promise they would order bin some money for the contingencies of his intended yoyage. Asks that their .\«ordships be reminded of this, and acquainted that "a hundred pound "will be required. Is " allroost ready to fall down ye riyer " haying all bis beer and water aboard. Has been promised that by Thursday he will have **t proportion of other proyision for 1 2 months." Letter in clerk* i band. (Signed) JV'^ Damfier. October I, 1698. " Roebuck^** Deftford. To the Secretary. Acbow- ledges letter of the 29th inst., containing orders " for my say ling to the Hope and thence to the Downes." Will obey "so soon as the ship shall be ins condition." Has " gott aboard all the Beer and water casque and beef and pork for twelve months." Expects " the other species " daily. Can stow some eight months' more provision. Returns humble thanks to their Lord- ships " for their care of me in ordering the Navy Board to Imprest mc an hundred pound for the contingencies on my Voyage." Hopes he will answer their Lordships' expectation. Letter in clerks bcmdwriting, (Signed) IT-- Damfier, Note. — The orders *' for my sayling " may be seen in Adm. Sec. Ottt- Lctters, 25, p. 147. October 6, 1 698. " Roebuck " In the Hofe. Advises the Honourable lod that this day " between eleven and twelve a clock we sett sail from Deptford and are now got safe here. Has sent his gunner for his guns and stor^* and his purser for his eight months' provision. Hopes to have all aboard ii> 328 LETTERS AND PAPERS will then proceed lo the Down». He hat ^ll hi* mrn aboard provtnoo for IwtIt* monthf. (Sigaed) W" Dumpier. Ratbatl " in tht hojx. To the same. Has been \ bia 2<MU c*er liocc hii letter of the 6th ; but owing to ihr blowing ■ bu obI^ ju>t recciTed them. " My Gunner ii getting down our ;, eic." 1 hii cTcniog the ihip habtUa, " lying about half a mile Ii vcfjhcd, but befote she could get her anchor up, the s:reDgtb of r fwced her aboiid of u*. Some part of the Cuttwater, ihc iprit and fud, lad ye railet oo the Quarter Deck, hate been destroyed, ao a* pouible. (Signed) IV" Dampiir. —Will hi*e the thip surTcyed if their Lorp«. think fiit," IV. D. 8, tSoB- /" tf>r Hop*. To (he mme. Aiki that an allowance CwklnvD I Electiury ajainit Dyienterie* be tent to him in the Wn bt ready lo oil to-morrow ; fair frotty weather. (Signed) »■- DflB^Vr. >■ SI, tAoS. " Rorbtuk" in tht Dowu. To the nrae. Report! nl in ihc Doviu, where he iwaiu further ordcri. (Signed) ly- Dampier. 19, 1698. /a iltf /)ewn/. To (he *ame. Acknowledge* « Mqipljr of Dr. Cockbum's medicine, and aiates that the I Cvpnt«r ha* not yet artined. Hii boatiwain, Robert W.trreD, iHf W |0 on the TOyage. Hopei he may have another in hi) itead, iiodkl be very >orry to carry any with me that are not very free and Hai one aua tick aihore. (Signed) fi^"^ Damfitr. note* arri**! of veucli. iw 7. 1698. /» iki Daiimi. To the »ime. Sir Cloiidetiey I laMadraB Hiltd hence yettrrJay for Holland. Ha* hoi«ted the rmatM, bring the otily King'* *hip in the Road. Hope* Sir ■* ha* made hii lepoit to iheir Lorp*. of ihe luHiciency of ye rmrtri, and am lonT that any ill affected penon ihould hare nr Lorpt. tlut I had entertained any not Srrficrablc." (Signed) iy~ Damfitr. (TIJ, 16914. /alkrDt^ni. To the ume. Ha* t:iken in twelve b(«f ■■ liea of tkai he li«* expended. Ha* endeavoured to execute f State upoo (he body of Capt. Richaid Strattan, commander of iJwmA mow lyiag in thii Road. Sent hii lieutenant aboard the bu hiitd to ftnd Capt. Stratiua. Preiume* thai a new carpenter in will Mioa arrive aboard. CItri'i tanJ. (Signed) IV- Damfiir. 17, 1698. In Uft /Jmnu. To the laffle. The new carpenter J CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES has come aboard , ** but no other Boatsw^" The present boatiwsuo ii ''very negligent," and has disobeyed the lieutenant's orders. Only yesterday the yeoman of his store-room was caught selling ** about sereotj pound of Rope yarns " to a shore boat. ** He said the Boatsw* had giitn him leave so to doe.'' " Boatsw" is now confined to his Cabbin." He bopn that the Admiralty will be pleased to rid him of this officer who, be believesy is very mutinously inclined. (Signed) fV*^ D/u^ier, A postscript suggests that John Knight, chief^ master's mate, be appointed boatswain. *<He is very well qualified for it, and a lober careful! man." Letter enclosed from Robert Warren^ the offending Boati^vmn* Wanes admits that he has ** Cometted an Earrer, and humbly Bags Captain Daropier'i pardon and likewise the Leftenancs. Hopes that what messe-undarstaoding thare is in this Besnes he will be pleased for to Judge Charetteabell, and not wilfully go for to Reueing a famely. Remains his sarrant to Com- mand Whills. Robert Warren (17 Nw, 1698)." He was tried aboard H.M.S. Plymouth on December 1, 1698, and sentenced to be dismissed hit ship and <* rendered uncapable of his Maj^. Service for the future." Robert Eddlington, his yeoman, was acquitted. November 2 1 , 1 698. In the Downs, To the same. Acknowledges letter of the 19th. Has sent the offending boatswain (with the evidence) aboard the Commander-in-Chief in the Medway. Has had rough weather, so that the boatswain's stores have not been surveyed. <'So soon as We haie moderate Weather I shall over hawle them." (Signed) JV*^- Danger, To the Rt. Hon. the Earl of Orford^ first Commissioner for execvta^ tk Office of Lord High Admiral of England. Has had a letter from Mr. Bor- chet asking '* what I would propose to have put into my Instructioot.'' Has answered that he had once hoped ** to have been goeing out of England by ye midie of September," in which case he would have sailed round tbe Horn and fallen in with Terra Australis on the E. coast, and coasted north- ward along it till he came to New Guinea. He hints his regrets at hafiog no more men allowed him. It is now too late in the year to go round tbe Horn. He will have to go round the Cape. He has desired that hii Instructions may be as unlimited as possible, so that he may alter his conrie if need arise. He asks that he may be permitted to take aboard some natives, *' in case I shall see any probability of a Comerce with tbein. Thinks he ought to have a supply of '< Iron barrs, with some axes, hatcheti, matcheats, etc., and some other trifles, as looking glasses, beads, etc., to deal with the Pore natives." He asks that if any of his hands prove mutioooi he may be allowed to take in more, or exchange them with any of Hit Majesty's or subjects' ships. Thinks that a small gratuity, or eves a << promise of somewhat at our return " would raise the spirits of his crew •* to a generous resolution of hazarding their persons." Hopes their Lord- ships will pardon him if he has been '* to bould " in his demands. He ii " much a stranger to his Majesty's service," but he will comply with hii Instructions ^*in ye strictest sense." Has had trouble with his boatswain, 330 F ^ccu * orw nun dtity. jlutagraph thrDughoul. (Signed) Your ■KM oblidgrd humble tervDt, (SigDcd) fV"^ Damjafr. Utrifl. — I cxpectrd before this time lo hare preteoted jour Lordship t ttitnuA ^»n of laj Vojrage*, but the genileman that I employed to I ta Index hu occasioned the delay, but I hope in ten days' time it ^"* ' (Sigtled) W-- Dampicr. E. LETTERS AND PAPERS of tbii Inter (waDtiog the poiticripl and other perianal details) % . . .. ...... ^^^^ . pier to the Setretwy of the Admiralty on NoTcmber ii, 1698. r*' Imtmctimu (Record Office, Adm. Sec. Out-Letteri, 35) are ltd Notember 30, iM> *^ »Sae<l H. P(riMtmai]), G. Rfusiell), I S. K(po<lall). ^ direct him to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, " and from B (Oetch awiy towards New Holland, and then to New Guinea and hoftnJti." They gtii: him permiMion " to ilcer any other Courie " Pr fiti but rcmicd him llut the King hjs been at great charge in 'Kperiiiion, and thai he mu«i " take especial care " to use hii to diicoter any "luch thingi" a* may letul to the good of ion. He is to take (pccimcni of the produce of the lands at which be*. He is to bring borne " some of the Natives, provided they shall pg to come along." He has been supplied with trifles with which \ widi die DitiTrt. ijp of hi* men should die, or prove ditorderly, he is empowered to titt hands from any Kidb's ship he may meet with. Any mutinous Htlcily hands may be discharged aboard any King's ihip he may Ui, and " the Comand>r of any luch Shipp or Vciiell of his Ma'* it ■squred to take them on board and give you other Men in their " At tbe same lime, he is to make it publicly known to all the tnen of ihr Rorhud "that such of them as shall behare them- kII, and Cheerfully performe their Duty in this Alfaire, which 'tii ttj tnd to the advmtage of the Nation, shall at their rcturoe receive R reward and Encourage meat." I ibe *iiya|;i be is 10 keep an '* Exact Joumall " of his proceeding*, ill thiols rematkabte. At hii return this journal is to be given to baaed "and to no other." He is to conform to the "Gencrall ■floexed to his Comitsion, except as lo what relates 10 •id." When he shall find that he can m->ke no further ^ Ibc Uir food of tbe naiioo, he is noi to stay ahroad ; but to leiuro ■oods for ardrf*. If no orders lie there, he is to proceed to the fnm whence he shall sciid the Board an account of hii ptoceedingi. ■sjra te take especial care not to annoy the King's subjects or allies, Khcr to live tJiem what assistance he can." for tbe better leni^lhening out his Provisions, he i) to put the ter his Comand (when he comes out of the Channcll) to six to four lUawance, atsuieing ihrm that they shall be punctually paid fol the the t«d of tbe Voyage." 698. /a the Oavmi. To the Secretary. A letter ledgiag ochet liettcei, aad recapitulaltDg former siatements. The ikew 33' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES boatswain (Norwood) has arriYcd aboard, and his stem are bdng sorfcycd. Two men are sick ashore, and five have gone to Robert Warren's court- martial. The wind is at W. by S., blowing weather. (Signed) W^ Bamfur. December i . In the Dtm/iu, To the same. Aboat £zo wfll equip him with Trifles, such as looking-glasses, beads, &c. Desires that he may have six dozen of hatchets, six dozen of axes, and eight dozen of matchetti. One man sick ashore. (Signed) W^ December 2. In the Domni. To the same. Has received his tailing orders, but thinks that he cannot be required to sail without his Trifles and axes ; and without the ^re men at the court-mirdal, one of whom is hb lieutenant. (Signed) /F"* December 7, 1698. In the Datum, To the same. Acknowledges their Lordships' bounty in the matter of the trifles, hatchets, &c Wkk those aboard he would be ready to sail. (Signed) /F"*> Dandier. December 6, 1698. In the Downs. To the same. Has receifed the axes, hatchetts and macheatts and ;^20, with which to purchase Trifles. Has bought the latter and ^* now am ready to Sayle." He waits a bat wind. (Signed) IV^ Damfkr. December 31, 1698. In the Downs, To the same. Is now unmooring in order to sail ; " having the wind att N. W. by N." (Signed) W'^ Damfn, January 9, 1 698/9. In the Downs, To the same. While unmooring on the 3i8t last, the wind changed to S.S.W. ** before we could heafe «p our Anchor." The wind has been westerly ever since. (Signed) W'^ Dan^, January 30, 98/9. In S*- Cruce harbour In the Island Teneriff, To the Lords of the Admiralty. Advises the Board that on Saturday the 14th inst., he sailed from the Downs. Has had fair winds ever since. Htf anchored to buy wine, but finds none fit to keep. Will sail hence to-morrow. All hands well. Sends this by "Capt^ Trever of his Maj^. ship the Experiment^ bound for Cadiz, who is now under Sayle.'* (Signed) W^ Dampier. January 31, 1698/9. In S^' Cruce harbour. To the same. A copy of the above letter ** committed to the care of Mr. Hopper, an Engliih merchant of this island, to be transmitted by the first ship bouod ^ England," Little news here "save that several Sally rovers hate latdy been seen off these islands." (Signed) Z^* Damfter. (Note. — He left Santa Cruz on February 4th.) 332 LETTERS AND PAPERS O, 1698, O.S. jfi Aiuhor in the English roade af ihi Jila To ilir Mine. Anircd here the 1 lih ioit., for ull. Is read7 to St. Jtga for wMct. I'clU of the Lnglith ahipi io the Road, some A taikd with him fiom the Downi. .Sendi tlii» by Capt. Gwin. ■kGod all TCty hndthy." (iiigncd) W* Dampier. 19. 1699, O.S. Aa St. J^9. To the Mine. Hai come Cm miUr. Letter a i^iumtf of the iwo preceiling tettcn. l^xpccti t gfmt bcnce ia two tbjn. (Signed) If" Dampirr. ifyril itml, 1699, O.S. /■ Baina harl' on ^^ ComI „J BraiiU. To the ; Saikd I'rvoi St. Jjga on iiit Febrmry, arrived here March i;th. ■cnbhrd, cMilkrd and watered, and ia now ready 10 Mil. Discusses the ikjud cofhlilion oi the provitiufls remaining 10 him, and the manner Uch t'hrj hate been (and will be) supplied to the crew. Has had good ker, aad the crew aie healthy. ■ Aad yeti all theie happy circumitance* were not suAicicnt to our case ^Met, while I was d,iyly plagued by ibc iniolcoce of my Lieut. Georg r. At my &m coming abooid, I was importuned by Lieut. Fisher Imle hoys m officer's scrvaois," On refusing this request their Lordship'* order*) he " cetwd not to impotiune me," qoarrrll with toy Puraer." At the Canary Islands "he Boisacfoa* J " and asked me " why I suHered none to goe I toU him I had commanded otherwise for fear of ■ttch, then he (baked hi* Fist ait me, Grind in my Face, he cared not for me." However, on bcine coB&ienicat, be apologised in " my Cabhin," .md br guilty of the Like for the future." St Jago ** I licard him . . . com;>IainiRg in I'ublick of ibe Bfead, and that itt wai not lilt for men to Late." On I . . . couLl not lind one Bitt not litt to Eate, att ■h Diapleated and Muttered his mind to some of his Oa yc 9^ March La*% he sat in the Stecridge and there about the Deer . . . and Likewise sjid that it was thfiD (the band*) Drink it within seven inches of the It up for I tlie broaching of a "caaque" of beer, " he grind ait me Maaer and I thougbl he would Collar mr. [lui hi* frequent ) b«flad my Patience, ih^t 1 pretented him by striking him CiM, vbtdi I liad then io my hands, ait which he turned to me, Old Oof. Old Villain, and told my men Gents take care of that Do( lor be detign* to Run away with yon and the Kind's cooaaed bins to hia cabin, and called all bands aft "to Obedsenor," but while " I " spoke, " he interrupted me wa Doctrine . . . loading mr with all the Crimes that -^:U imawm mtj nen Again« me as Piracy and Murther." He continued ■K Srnrall hours uignhcT," and behaird so outrageously that J33 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES **On the i6 I was forced to put him in Irons lest he should came my men to mutiny/' After **I " anchored here (in Bahia Bay) **his Curiei and scurrilous Language" continued daily* although he was a prisfmer; so that ** I was oblidged either to retume home or gett rid of him.'' ** I went to the Governor," who ''had heard of my Misfortune (which any body could tell him of that had once been aboard here, such unusuall noise the L^ made") and ''he prevented my Request by proffering to secure my L^ ashore." So " on ye 28th I sent him ashoare where he was pott in prison till this fleet sayles for Lisbon." At Lisbon, Mr. Fisher will be deliyered to Mr. (Paul) Methuen, his Majesty's Envoy "to whom I writtto send him home." " I have sent ashore four months' provision for Mr. Fisher and his servant, " because the Portuguese are loth to part with any provinoo." Mr. Fisher is no quieter in prison than he was aboard. He has tried ''to incense some Dutch merchants against me, telling them I was a pirate, hid taken a Dutch ship, tyd the men back to back and hove them overboard." tThis would seem to refer to the exploit at Sierra LeoneJ Since then he las been working on the Priests and Friars, and the "Ghostly Padrei" have given him a writ against me. The Governor of Bahia has asked where we are bound, " so told him I was bound to Benculi on the Island Sumatra." There are three of Captain Avery's men [Avery was a pirate of some notoriety at this time] in this place. " I would have brought them away with me had it not been for these unhappy differences which made dread inch infectious company." His men have made depositions against the trio "so that I hope they may be sent for Lisbon." Sends with this hb officer^ evidences against Fisher, " only my pursers and chirurgeons I have not aent because the Lieutenant and they were at difference, and they might be partiall." Letter in clerk* i band, (Signed) U^ Dampier. June ^rJf 1 699. Off' Cape Bon Rsperance hearing from us N,E, by E. Distant twenty Leagues, To the same. Having met the ship Antelofe^ thinks fit to report that he sailed from Bahia on the 23rd April last Mentions the dispatch of the preceding letter. All aboard very healthy, and the ship in good condition. Will not touch anywhere till he comes to " ye Place I design for." Clerk's band. (Signed) W'^- Dampier. Tbe following letters are to be seen in tbe Navy Board Papers at tbe Record Office {No. 516). August 17/^, 1699. To the Navy Board. Recommends John Knight, now gunner of the Dunwicb^ as a suitable master for the Roebuck^ "I having known him for severall ycares to be a sober, diligent and knowing man, has been Mas'* of severall ships in ye West Indies." Does not doubt that he " will approve himself upon Examination " to be worthy this character. (Signed) IV*^- Damper. October 3, 1699. To the same. Does pray that the promised "one hundred pounds for contingencies on the Service " may be paid soon. Asks also for eighteen barrecoes, or small hand casks, for filling of water while 334 LETTERS AND PAPERS HU c)unir{>eaii hai drugs for twcWr manihs, but the ship may be > jean, therefore hope* you will give btm neceasarics accordJog. (Signed) ti^ Dampier. II, 1699. Totheume. Rraorti his arrival in the Downs, and Bf ■ carpcnur. Wind N. W. W. a freeh gale. (Signed) ;*'" Damfier. , 1699. To the ume. On the zind lost "all my Oarcs / Ya«^ being orenett by » Ship's tide in coming olf from Deale Cuuwx procnre Mrs or any other acccsiary in Deal without !<»•" order*." Desires that the Deal Btorckerper may be caused to Ui bo«u«&iD with til yawlt' oars, and his Carpenter with one Iron r Kocks, on* To|> maul *od half a pound of Futnp Nailet. I piaa for the Top Uoclt." (Signed) IV- Damfier. irr I J, 1699. To the ume. Gires a resuine of other letters. 1 the bill (or £iOt *^ "o^* waiti for the hatchets. (Signed) /*^ Dampitr. Hat had bad weather. Aiks for ring boll for the stoppers, two from rising." IV~ Dampier. last to mend the trouble them no IV. D. r 15, 1699. To ihe r t ibc Deal storekeetirr ■ for ye Whelps of the Ccer Capton (captcaa) which beiTiag, and two other bolts to keep the Capsoni (Signrf) rrifl. — If he may have "a do^en nf Pcins of ia tVf Cabbio which arc broke" he hopes U hw Rctantc. - 30t 1699. To the ume. laace whii bii re^oMt. Returns hearty thankx for their (Signed) #"• Daw^. 335 » f • % )\ VOYAGE TO NEW-HOLLJND, &c. In the Year 1699. Wherein are dcLcribed, The Cnffdr;*-! Hands, the Iflcs of Mayo and St. J'tgo. The Bay of All-Saints, with the Forts and Town of Bahia in Brazil. Cape Sal-vadore, The Winds on the Braftlian Coaft. Abrohlo Shoals. A Table of all ^c^VarianoHi obfcrv'd in this Voyage. Oc- currences near the Cape of Good-Hope. The Courfc to New-Holland. Shark's Bay. The Ifles and CoaA, 6?c. of New-Holland. heir Inhabiiants, Manners, Cuftoms, Trade, iic. Their Harbours, Soil. Bcatts, Birds, Fifh, i£c. Trees, Plants, Fruits, &i*f. utintted with fevcral Maps and Drauohi's : Alfo divers Birdi, Filha and PUntt not found in this Pan of ihc WofU, Cunoufljr Ingraven on Copper-Plates, VOL. III. By Captain William Dampier. inted for James <iWJohk Knapton, at the Crown in St. PauPs Church- Yard. lii' 9 ■ ij I t B .1 1 ; i •• I n I t ^ V TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THOMAS EARL OF PEMBROKE, LORD PRESIDENT OF HER MAJESTY'S MOST HONOURABLE PRIVY-COUNCIL, Ac. My Lord, THK Honour 1 had of being employed in the Ser- vice of his late Majesty of Illustrious Memory, at the time when Your Lordship presided at the Admiralty, gives me the Boldness to ask Your Protection of the following Papers. They consist of some Remarks made upon very distant Climates, which 1 should have the Vanity to think altogether new, could I persuade my self they had cscap'd Your Lordship's Knowledge. However I have hcen so cautious of publishing any thing in my whole Book that is generally known, that 1 have deny'd my self the Pleasure of paying the due Honours to your Lordship's Name in the Dedication. I am asham'd, my Lord, to offer You so imperfect a Present, having not time to »et down all the Memoirs of my last Voyage : But as the particular Service I have now undertaken, hinders me frotn nnithing thin Volume,' so I hope it will give me an Opportunity of paying my Respects to Your Lordship in a aew one. The World is apt to judge of every thing by the ; and whoever has ill Fortune wilt hardly be He nltn to hii intFodcd crubc in command of tlic S/. Ctiirg*, then ( OMt, with the Fault, fnr a vi>yaj^ lo Ihc South Srai. Itoth thipi trcic B36c«B», *nd lao men. The ftnt nliiion of thi* volume end* ai or about K 1->^ of llie *n]ra][e ; lu l6aBd fui|{e (p. 444 in this cdilioa). 339 DEDICATION allow'd a good Name. This, my Lord, was my Unhappy ness in my late Expedition in the Roe-Buck^ whi^ foundered thro* perfect Age near the Island of Ascensior I suffered extreamly in my Reputation by that Misfortune j tho' I comfort myself with the Thoughts, that my EnemJes could not charge any Neglect upon me. And since I have the Honour to be acquitted by your Lordship*s Judgment, I should be very humble not to value my self upon so compleat a Vindication. This, and a World of other Favours, which I have been so happy as to receive from Your Lordship's Goodness, do engage mc to be with an everlasting Respect, My Lord, Your Lordship's Most Faithful and Obedient Servant, Will. Dampiir. 340 THE PREFACE ^HE favourable Reception ' my two former Volumes of Voyages and Descriptions have already met with in the World, gives me Reason to hope, That notwithstanding the Objections which have been raised against me by prejudiced Persons,' this 'I'hird Volume likewise may in some measure be ■cccptabic to Candid and Impartial Readers, who are curious to know the Nature of the Inhabitants, Animals, Plant*, Soil, ficc. in those different Countries, which have cither seldom or not at all been visited by any Euro[>cans. It has almost always been the Fate of those who have made new Discoveries, to be disesteemed and slightly spoken fd, by such as cither have had no true Relish and V*iluc for the Things themselves that are discovered, or have had some Prejudice against the Persons by whom the Discovcrica were made. It would be vain therefore and unrctaonable in mc to expect to escape the Censure of all, or to hope for better Treatment than far Worthier Persons bare met with before me. But this Satisfaction I am sure tJ having, that the Things themselves in the Discovery of which I have been imploycd, arc most worthy of our <ji ligenidt Search and Inquiry ; being the various and --roodcrful W(«-ks of God in different Parts of the World : And however unfit a Person I may be in other respects to have undertaken this Task, yet at least I have given a inthinX Account, and have found some Things undis- covered by any before, and which may at least be some ■ They lud run tkraoch *oid« three or four ediiioai when ihi Fnbei mni kii tupporten. 34' J THE PREFACE Assistance and Direction to better qualified Persons who shall come after me. It has been objected against mc by some, that my Accounts and Descriptions of Things are dry and jejune, not filled with variety of pleasant Matter, to divert and gratify the Curious Reader. How far this is true, I must leave to the World to judge. But if I have been exactly and strictly careful to give only True Relations and Descriptions of Things (as I am sure I have ;) and if my Descriptions be such as may be of use not only to my self (which I have already in good measure experienced) but also to others in future Voyages; and likewise to such Readers at home as are more desirous of a Plain and Just Account of the true Nature and State of the Things described, than of a Polite and Rhetorical Narrative: I hope all the Defects in my Stile, will meet with an easy and ready Pardon. Others have taxed me with borrowing from other Men's Journals; and with Insufliciency, as if I was not myself the Author of what I write, but published Things digested and drawn up by others. As to the first Part of this Objection, I assure the Reader, I have taken nothing from any Man without mentioning his Name, except some very few Relations and particular Observations received from credible Persons who desired not to be named ; and these I have always expressly distinguished in my Books, from what I relate as of my own observing. And as to the latter ; I think it so far from being a Diminution to one of my Education and Employment, to have what I write, Revised and Corl-ected by Friends ; that on the contrary, the best and most eminent Authors are not ashamed to own the same Thing, and look upon it as an Advantage. Lastly, I know there are some who are apt to slight my Accounts and Descriptions of things, as if it was an easie Matter and of little or no Difficulty to do all that I have done, to visit little more than the Coasts of unknown Countries, and make short and imperfect Observations of Things only near the Shore. But whoever is experienced in these Matters, or considers Things impartially, will be 342 ■ THE PREFACE Ef a very different Opinion. And any unc who is sensible, how backward and rcfractnry the Seamen are apt to be in long Voyages when they know not whither ihcy are going, how ignorant they are of the Nature of the Winds and the shifting Seasons of the Monsoons, and how little even ihe Officer* themselves generally are skilled in the Variation of the Needle »nd the Use of the Aiimuth ' Compass ; besides the Hazard of all outward Accidents in strange and un- known Seas : Any one, I say, who is sensible of these KiBcultics, will be much more pleased at the Discoveries uid Obscr^'attons 1 have been able to make, than displeased with me that I did not make more. Thus much I thought necessary to premise in my own Vindication, against the Objections that have been made to my former Performances. But not to trouble the Reader lay funhcr with Matters of this Nature; what I have more to oiAer shall be only in relation to the following Voyage. For the better apprehending the Course of this Voyage, Mod the Situation of the Plates mentioned in it, I have here, as in the former Volumes, caused a Map to be Ingraven, with a prick'd Line, representing to the Eye the whole Thread of the Voyage at one View ; besides Draughts and Figures of particular Places, to make the Descriptions I have sivcn of them more intelligible and useful. Morrovcr, which I had not the opportunity of doing in my fiirmcr Voyages ; having now had in the Ship with me a Penon skill'd in Drawing,' I have by this means been enabled, for the greater Satisfaction of the Curious Reader, to present him with exact Cuts and Figures of several of the principal and must remarkable of those Birds, Beasts, I-'Uhn and Plants, which arc described in the following Narrative; and also of several, which not being able to Hivc any better or so good an Account of, as by causing them to be exactly Ingraven, the Reader will not lind any further Dcacriptton of them, but only that they were found in such or web priicular Countries. The Plants them- ' TIw aainnlh nmpau is an in«iiumeni employed ai tea to detcnnine H of ibc nufneiicm) variaiion. THE PREFACE selves are in the Hands of the Ingenious Dr. Woodward/ I could have caused many others to be drawn in like manner, but that I resolved to confine my self to such only, as had some very remarkable difierence in the Shape of their principal Parts from any that are found in Europe. I have besides several Birds and Fishes ready drawn, which I could not put into the present Volume, because they were found in Countries, to the Description whereof the follow- ing Narrative does not reach. For, being obliged to prepare for another Voyage,* sooner than I at first ex- pected ; I have not been able to continue the ensuing Narrative any further than to my Departure from the Coast of New Holland. But, if it please God that 1 return again safe, the Reader may expect a Continuation of this Voyage from my departure from New Holland, till the foundring of my Ship near the Island of Ascension. In the mean time, to make the Narrative in some measure compleat, I shall here add a Summary Abstract of that latter part of the Voyage, whereof I have not had time to draw out of my Journals a full and particular Account at large. Departing therefore from the Coast of New Holland in the beginning of September, 1699 (for the Reasons mentioned Page 444) we arrived at Timor, Sept. 15, and anchored off that Island. On the 24th we obtain'd a small Supply of fresh Water from the Governor of a Dutch Fort and Factory there ; we found also there a Portuguese Settlement, and were kindly treated by them. On the 3rd of December we arrived on the Coast of New Guinea; where we found good fresh Water, and had Commerce with the Inhabitants of a certain Island call'd Pulo-Sabuti. After which, passing to the Northward, wc ranged along the Coast to the Eastermost Part of New Guinea ; which I found does not join to the main Land of New Guinea, but is an Island,^ as I have described it in my Map, and call'd it New-Britain. * Dr. John Woodward (1665-1728), a botanist and geologist on the Council of the Royal Society. The Herbarium of which Dampier speaks is now at Oxford. ■ See ante^ note to Dedication. ' New Pomerania. Sabuti is Dampier Island. 344 THE PREFACE this Island may afFord many rich Com- 1, and the Natives may be easily brought to Com- But the many Difficulties I at this time met with, want of Convenience 10 clean my Ship, the fewness of Men, their Desire to hasten home, and the Danger of inuing in these Circumstances in Seas where the Shoals Coasts were utterly unknown, and must be searched out I much Caution and length of Time ; hindred me from ecuting any further at present my intended Search. It I have been able to do in this Matter for the Publick rioc, will, I hope, be candidly rccciv'd ; and no Difficulties discourage me from endeavouring to promote the same whenever I have an Opportunity put into my Hands. May 18, in our Return, we arrived at Timor. June 21, pttt by part of the Island Java. July 4, we anchored BatBvia-Rood ; and I went ashore, visited the Dutch nl, and desired the Privilege of buying Provisions 1 wanted, which was granted mc. In this Road we till the 17th of October following; when, having fitted Ship, recruited my self with Provisions, filled all my ler, and the Season of the Year for returning towards Pope being come ; I set Sail from Batavia, and on the "h of December made the Cape of Good Hope ; whence ■rting Jan. 1 1, we made the Island of Santa Hellena on J 1st; and February the 2ist, the Island of Ascension; r to which my Shin, having sprung a Leak which could __ be stopped, foundered at Sea ; with much difficulty we p* ashore, where wc liv'd on Goats and Turtle; and on - 26th of February found, to our great Comfort, on the : fi.. Side of a high Mtiuntain, about half a Mile from its 1 -p, a Spring of fresh Water. I returned 10 England D the Canurhury East-India-Ship. For which wonderful Mivemncc from so many and great Dangers, 1 think my Elf bound to return continual Thanks to Almighty God ; rfaoK Divine Providence if it shall please to bring mc safe eun to my Native Country from my present intended foftac ; I hope to publish a particular Account of alt the Batcnal Things I observed in the several Places which I MTc now but barely mentioned. 345 THE CONTENTS CHAP. I ■^ Or«£eWattaMladwrCaanM««tt«(tfT(«Mnff*,J««. mi Ae Gonmon st Laf^aa ud S*nta Cnu. Oi the \Vin>l» m tkoc Satt> Tbc A-'< Anti^ u Mam Of thr C. Vcnl bhsAk ; it» Ssh-pon4. compar'd with that ol' Skit Timtuc* ; tt> I Tnfc far Salt, and Fnpc-bcMn. Its Vrj:etaMrs Sl[k-)^M^ut, I Ac> In Sod, Mil Towns ; its Ga>nca-Hcn\ and m hvt K^iwh, Bcvta^wtd Fah. OF the So-Turtio, A:c. Laving ju the Wet S^no. Of tbc Natives tl>«r Trade and l.hclihtwd. Tht A.'t Amral ai J. St. Ja^i Pn<^ and St. Jaco I'uwn. Of I tbc Inlabiants, and their ComtnodiiMa. Ot the CuMBrd* ffe. Sc Jago RowL J. Fago. CHAP. II : A.*» Detibcmtion on the Sequel of hit Vojrkp, and Dcfwrturo ftma St. Jaicn. Ha Coune, and the Winds, &c. in t:riM*iii|{ llie He namk awajr for the Itajr or All-Saiitti in Uraail ) and whv. Hit Atrivti on that Coait and in the Ila)'. Of the I «c«et«l Forts the Rood, Situation, Town, and HttiMlnei of hia. Of it* Go»ctnout, Shi|*. and Mi-ichant« i ami Cnm- idiiica to and from Kiirope. CUym^ of Su(:ai. Ttic Sramii [ (ipr the EuTOfwan Ships and Ciirr Cnbli-« : (>( their (iiiinM* Ifsde, and of the Cuaitintt-trade, and Whalc-kithnu. 0( tho Inhabiunn of Bahia: their cairying in Mammocu : Their ArTt6cets Ctanc for Goods and Nc(cro-Slate^ Of the Oninirj . about Bahis in Soil and Product. It» Timber-tree* i the SapicfB, Vcrmtatko, CummrMctic, Guiltcba, Settle, and Man- 347 THE CONTENTS groves. The Bastard-Coco, its Nuts and Cables ; and the Silk- Cotton-trees. The Brasilian Fruits, Oranges, &c. Of the Sour-sops, Cashew's, and Jennipah*s. Of their peculiar Fruits, Arisah's, Mericasah's, Petango*s, Petumbo*s, Mungaroo's, Muckishaw% Ingwa's, Otees, and Mustenui de Ova's. Of the Palm-berries, Physick-nuts, Mendibee*s, &c. and their Roots and Herbs, &c. Of their Wild-Fowl, Maccaw's, Parrots, &c The Yenuna, Carrion-Crow and Chattering-crow, Bill-bird, Curreso, Turtle-dove and Wild-pigeons ; the Jenctec, Clocking- hen, Crab-catcher, Galden, and black Heron : The Ducb, Widgeon and Teal ; and Ostriges to the Southward, and of the Dunghil-fowls. Of their Cattle, Horses, &c. Licopards and Tiger's. Of their Serpents ; the Rattle-Snake, small Green- Snake, Amphisbaena, small Black and small Grey-snake; the great Land, and the great Water-snake ; and of the Water-dog. Of their Sea-fish and Turtle ; and of St. Paul's Town. CHAP, in The A.'s Stay and Business at Bahia : Of the Winds, and Seasons of the Year there. His departure for N. Holland. C. Salva- dore. The Winds on the Brasilian Coast ; and Abrohlo Shoal ; Fish, and Birds : The Shear-water Bird, and Cooking of Sharks. Excessive number of Birds about a dead Whale ; Of the Pintado Bird, and the Petrel, &c. Of a Bird that shews the C. of G. Hope to be near : Of the Sea-reckonings, and Variations; And a Table of all the Variations observ'd in this Voyage. Occurrences near the Cape ; and the A.'s passing by it Of the Westerly Winds beyond it : A Storm, and its Presages. The A.'s Course to N. Holland ; and Signs of approaching it Another Abrohlo Shole and Storm, and the A.'s Arrival on part of N. Holland. That part describ'd ; and ShaHc's Bar, where he first anchors. Of the Land there. Vegetables, Birw, &c. A particular sort of Guano : Fish, and b«uitiful Shelb; Turtle, large Shark, and Water-Serpents. The A.'s removing to another Part of N. Holland : Dolphins, Whales, and more Sea-Serpents : And of a Passage or Streight suspected here : Of the Vegetables, Birds, and Fish. He anchors on a third Part of N. Holland, and digs Wells, but brackish. Of the Inhabitants there, the great Tides, the Vegetables and Animals, &c. 348 DAMPIER'S VOYAGES VOL. Ill A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS CHAP. I Tif A.'i Dff*rtmrf Jrtim tht Dtumt. A CavtUn t» thou wht sail in ikf Cha*nfl. Hit Jrrivol at th* Canary- 1 ilandt. Santa Cruz M "Tmtrigi ; l/u Rtad ami Tnun, and Sfmnith ff^rrci. Laguna T. Ukt anJ Ctmntry j anJ Oratavia T. and Road. Of thi ffina and tthtr Ctmmtditits »f Ttmtrifft, &c, and tht Govemonn mt Lngmiu and Santa Crux. Of iht ff'inds in that Stas. Tht jfi Arrival at Maj9y tni of tht C, Vtrd Ulands ; its Salt-fend, ctmpmr'd with that of Salt-Tortuga ; iti Tradt for Salt, and Fraft-htatt. Itt ffgrtaiUi, Silk-Collon, isfc. In Soil, and Tmnitf I'/t Gninfu-Hrn'i, and athtr fowli, Beastt and Fiih, Of tlu Sta-TurtU'i (itfr.) laying in tht wtt Staton. Of tht Nativtt, lAtir Tradf end Uvtlihotd, The A.'i Arrival at J, St. JagOy fd St. Jap Trtcw. Of tht Inhabitants^ and thfir Commoditiri. Oflh Cnaard-Apflty and tht Pap«h. St. Jago Road, J. Fogo. SAIL'D from the Downs early on Saturday, Jan- 14, ^ 169;, wiih a fair Wind, in his Majesty's Ship the 1699 Roe-iuei ;' carrying but 12 Guns in this Voyage, and 50 Men and Boys, with 20 Month's Provision. We I Kattud, a »hi|i of 390 tons. Her cnptain wai, of courae, Dampicf ; h«T muter, John Hughes; her li«uteniin1, Gcoive Fisher; Btlip P>ine ; her mate-i. R. ChAtlwitk and John Kni|(hL "Th« Ml C«ptMB'i cleirk vcrc two Scoicti dojcs" ^^'illiam Bonhwkk k BrsBd by Mme. She Icfi Drprford on ibc Mh On- 1A98. On , ma ibc lay at Tilbury, the Imtitla Pink cnllifird with her, and I bcr beau) and tpHt topmatl. On the iind ihe anchored to the e abe ttayvd till January 14th. Husliet (the tnasiet'*) lo|[bnok 349 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. had several of the King's Ships in Company, bound for '^ Spit-head and Plimouth; and by Noon we were off Dungencss. We parted from them that Night, and stood down the Channel, but found our selves next Morning nearer the French Coast than we expected ; C. de Hague bearing S. E. and by E. 6 L. There were many other Ships, some nearer, some farther off the French Coast, who all seem'd to have gone nearer to it than they thought they should. My Master,^ who was spmewhstt troubled at it at first, was not displeas'd however to find that he had Company in his Mistake : Which, as I have heard, is a very common one, and fatal to many Ships. The Occasion of it is the not allowing for the Change of the Variation since the making of the Charts; which Captain Hally* An Ad- has observed to be very considerable. I shall refer the vertise- Reader to his own Account of it which he causM to be cessary^ published in a single Sheet of Paper, purposely for a to be ob- Caution to such as pass to and fro the English Channel : thrNavi- ^^^ Title of it is in the Margin. And my own Experience gation up thus confirming to me the Usefulness of such a Caution, T^ch^" I was willing to take this Occasion of helping towards the nei of making it the more publick. England. Not to trouble the Reader with every Day*s Run, nor with the Winds or Weather (but only in the remoter Parts, where it may be more particularly useful) standing away from C. la Hague, we made the Start about 5 that Afternoon ; which being the last Land we saw of England, we reckon'd our Departure * from thence : Tho' we had rather have taken it from the Lizard, if the hazy Weather would have suflFer'd us to have seen it. The first Land we saw after we were out of the Channel was C. Finisterre, which we made on the rgth; and on the 28 th made Lancerota,* one of the Canary Islands ; of which, and of Allegrance,* another of them, I * John Hughes. * E. Halley (1656- 1742), astronomer, author of the "General Chart of the Variation," published after a long cruise in command of the Paratnoitr Pink. ' Having, until then, had the land dose aboard to define their position. * Lanzerote. ^ Alegranze. 350 W AtLECRANCE, TENERIFFE, ETC. 1 ■K here given the Sights,' as they both appeared to us at an, | ■O several Bearings and Distances. '^ ' m We were now standing away for the Island Teneriffe, Kere 1 intended to take in some Wine and Brandy for my Wyage. On Sunday, half an hour past 3 in the Afternoon, K made the Island, and croudcd in with all our Sails till m when the N. E. Point of the Isle bore W. S. W. dist. V leagues: But being then so far off that I could not ■Beet to get in before Night, I lay by till next Morning, pwbcrating whether I should put in at Santa Cruz,^ or at Oraizvia,' the one on the E. the other on the W. side of the Island ; which liea mostly North and South ; and these tre the principal Ports on each Side. I chose Santa Cruz ■ the better Harbour (especially at this Time of the Year) Bid as best fumish'd with that Sort of Wine which I had ■BCasion to take in for my Voyage : So there I come to »n Anchor Jan. 30ih, in 33 Fathom-water, black slimy Ground; about half a Mile from the Shore; from which IXltance I took the Sight of the Town. L In the Koad, Ships must ride in 30, 40, or 50 Fathom- er, not above half a Mile from the Shore at farthest; 1 if there arc many Ships, they must ride close one by iher. The Shore is generally high Land, and in most cci steep too,* This Road lies so open to the East, [ Winds from that Side make a great Swell, and very goii^ ashore in Boats : The Ships that ride here are B often forced to put to Sea, and sometimes to cut or I their Anchors, not being able to weigh them. The : and smoothest Landing is in a small sandy Cove, about Mile to the N. E. of the Road, where there is good ith which Ships that lade here are supply'd ; and ly Times Ships that lade at Oratavia, which is the chief t for Trade, send their Boats hither for Water. That worse Port for Westerly than this is for Easterly Winds ; then all Ships that are there put to Sea. Between this ThcM hate htwn omilted ftum ihe present edition a> no )on|[cr uMful. In Ibe isUm) uf Tcnerifiit There ii aooihor (own of this nainc in tUod of ratma. I Omuva. a lown of lomc iinfMniance at the foot of the Peak. i lUainsabtuptlffnxnUtcica, with great depth of water cloM to the ahore. I 3S> J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AR. Watering-place and Santa Cruz are two little Forts ; which i^ with some Batteries scattered along the Coast command the Road. Santa Cruz its self is a small unwalled Town fronting the Sea, guarded with two other Forts to secure the Road. There are about 200 Houses in the Town, all two Stories high, strongly built with Stone, and covered with Pantile. It hath two Convents and one Church, which are the best Buildings in the Town. The Forts here could not secure the Spanish Galleons from Admiral Blake,^ tho* they haird in close under the main Fort Many of the Inhabitants that are now living remember that Action ; in which the English battered the Town, and did it much Damage; and the Marks of the Shot still remain in the Fort-Walls. The Wrecks of the Galleons that were biu-nt here, lie in 15 Fathom-water: And 'tis said that most of the Plate lies there, tho* some of it was hastily carried ashore at Blake's coming in Sight. Soon after I had anchored I went ashore here to the Governour of the Town, who received me very Undly, and invited me to dine with him the next Day. I returnM on Board in the Evening, and went ashore 'again with two of my Officers the next Morning ; hoping to get up the Hill Time enough to see Laguna, the principal Town, and to be back again to dine with the Governour of Santa Cruz ; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 Miles off. The Road is all the way up a pretty steep Hill ; yet not so steep but that Carts go up and down laden. There are ^ Admiral Blake arrived ofT Santa Cruz on the i8th April, 1657, in seardi of some treasure galleons. The galleons had been hauled in *' close under the main Fort," as Dampier says, while the men-of-war which convoyed them had anchored in a line outside them, so that their batteries could bear upon an enemy entering the Road. Some of the gold and silver vas hastily landed ; but Blake attacked before the ships were cleared. On the 20th April, Blake had a fair wind, and sailed into the Road in two divisions. One, under Captain Stayner, attacked the galleons, the other, under Blake, engaged the forts. All the Spanish ships were burnt and sunk, and, as Dampier says, " the English batter'd the Town and did it much Damage." Blake sailed from Santa Cruz that same evening, as soon as the land-breeie began to blow. The English lost some 50 killed, and about twice that number wounded. Clarendon says that "the Spaniards comforted them- selves with the belief that they were Devils and not Men who had thus destroyed them." 352 LAGUNA TOWN AND GARDENS >)ick Houses scattering by the Way-side, where we got Wine. The Land on each Side seemed to be but Eky and dry; yet in many Places we saw Spots of green urishing Corn. At farther Distances there were small ■eyards by the Sides of the Mountains, intermixt with londancc of waste roclcy Land, unfit for Cultivation, •ch aflfurdcd only Dildo-bushes. It was about 7 or 8 the Morning when we set out from Santa Cruz ; and Icing fair clear Weather, the Sun shone very bright and rtned us sufficiently before we got to the City Laguna ; kh wc reached about 10 a Clock, all sweaty and tired, were glad to refresh our selves with a little Wine in a ■ Tipling-housc : But we soon found out one of the glUh Merchants that resided here ; who entertained us dsomely at Dinner, and in the Afternoon shew'd us t Town. Ljguoa is a pretty large well-compacted Town, and ikes a very agreeable Prospect. It stands part of it a Hill, and part in a Level. The Houses have axly strong Walls built with Stone and covered with Itiie. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleasant gh. There arc many fair Buildings; among which 2 Parish-Churches, 2 Nunneries, an Hospital, 4 rcDti, and some Chapels; besides many Gentlemens 9CS. Tbe Convents arc those of St. Austin, St. ninick. St. Francis, and St. Diego. The two Churches pretty high square Steeples, which top the rest of Buildings. The Streets are not regular, yet they are itly »ptciou8 and pretty handsome; and near the middle " E Town is a large Parade, which has good Buildings : it. There is a strong Prison on one Side of it ; which is a targe Conduit of good Water, that supplies the Town. They have many Gardens which are set with Oranges, LJmcs, and other Fruits: In the of which arc Pot-herbs, Sallading, Flowers, &c. I indeed, if the Inhabitants were curious this way, they kt have very pleasant Gardens: For as the Town stands I from the Sea, on the Brow of a Plain thai is all open ; East, and hath consequently the Benefit of the true Dt. u. 353 z CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Trade- wind, which blows here, and is most commonly fair ; '699 so there are seldom wanting at this Town, brisk, cooling, and refreshing Breezes all the Day. On the Back of the Town there is a large Plain of 3 or 4 Leagues in length and 2 Miles wide, producing a thick kindly Sort of Grass, which lookt green and very pleasant when I was there, like our Meadows in England in the Spring. On the East-side of this Plain, very near the Back of the Town, there is a natural Lake or Pond of fresh Water. It is about half a Mile in Circumference; but being stagnant, 'tis only us'd for Cattle to drink of. In the Winter-time several Sorts of wild Fowl resort hither affording Plenty of Game to the Inhabitants of Laguna. This City is called Laguna from hence ; for that Word in Spanish signifies a Lake or Pond. The Plain is bounded on the W. the N, W. and the S. W. with high steep Hills; as high above this Plain as this is above the Sea; and 'tis from the Foot of one of these Mountains that the Water of the Conduit which supplies the Town, is con- veyed over the Pljun, in Troughs of Stone rais'd upon Pillars. And, indeed, considering the Situation of the Town, its large Prospect to the East (for from hence you see the Grand Canary) its Gardens, cool Arbors, pleasant Plain, green Fields, the Pond and Aqueduct, and its re- freshing Breezes ; it is a very delightful Dwelling, especially for such as have not Business that calls them far and often from Home : For the Island being generally moun- tainous, steep and craggy, full of Risings and Fallings, 'tis very troublesome Travelling up and down in it, unless in the Cool of the Mornings and Evenings : And Mules and Asses are most us'd by them, both for Riding and Carriage, as fittest for the stony, uneven Roads. Beyond the Mountains, on the S. W. side, still further up, you may see from the Town and Plain a small peeked Hill, overlooking the rest. This is that which is called the Pike of TenerifFe, so much noted for its Heighth:^ * The Peak is "like unto a sugar-loaf, and continually covered with snow, and placed in the middest of a goodly vallie." Its height is about 12,000 feet. 354 WINES— ORATAVIA—VERDONA WINE But wc saw it here at so great a Disadvanlage, by Reason of the Nearness of the adjacent Mountains to us, that it ' looked inconsiderable in Respect to its Fame. The true Malmesy Wine grows in this Island; and this here is said to be the best of its Kind in the World.' Here is also Canary-Wine, and Verdona, or Green-wine. The Canu-y grows chiefly on the West-side of the Island ; lod ihcrefore is commonly sent toOratavia; which being the chief Sca-pori for Trade in the Island, the principal Eogli&h Merchants reside there, with their Consul ; because wc have a great Trade for this Wine. I was told, that thit Town is bigger than Laguna; that it has but one Church, but many Convents : That the Port is but ordinary at best, and is ver>' bad when the N. W. Winds blow. These Norwcsters give notice of their Coming, by a great Sea thai tumbles in on the Shore for some Time before they come, and by a black Sky in the N. W. Upon these %gR9 Ships cither get up their Anchors, or slip their Ctbles and put to Sea, and ply oflT and on till the Weather ■. Sometimes they arc forced to do so 2 or 3 before they can take in their Lading ; which 'tis 1 do here in the fairest Weather: And for fresh they send, as I have said, to Santa Cruz. Verdona :n, Mrong-bodicd Wine, harsher and sharper than Tis not so much esteemed in Euroiw, but is to the West-Indies, and will keep best in hot I ; for which Reason I touch'd here to take in it for my Voyage. This Sort of Wine is made \j on the East-side of the Island, and shipt off at Cruz. aides these Wines, which arc yearly vended in great from the Canary Islands (chiefly from Grand Tencrifli, and Palnia) here is Store of Grain, as Barly and Maiz, which they often transport to Places. They have also some Beans and Peas, and a Sort of Grain much like Maiz, sow'd mostly to Land. They have Papah's, which I shall speak ' tha be« * Malimey," oi Madeira, ome bom Madeira. 355 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. more of hereafter; Apples, Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, and '^ excellent Peaches, Apricocks, Guava's, Pomegranates, Gtrons, Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Pumpkins, Onions the best in the World, Cabbages, Turnips, Potato's, &c. They are also well stocked with Horses, Cows, Asses, Mules, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Conies, and Plenty of Deer. The Lancerot Horses arc said to be the most mettlesome, fleet, and loyal Horses that are. Lastly, here are many Fowls, as Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Pidgeons, Partridges, &c. with Plenty of Fish, as Nfackril, &c. All the Canary Islands have of these Commodities and Provisions more or less: But as Lancerota is most fam'd for Horses, and Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma for Wines, Teneriflfc especially for the best Malmesy, {for which Reason these 3 Islands have the chief Trade) so is Fortcventura for Dunghil-Fowls, and Gomera for Deer. Fowls and other Eatables are dear on the Trading Islands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; and therefore *tis best for such Ships that are going out on long Voyages, and who design to take in but little Wine, to touch rather at these last; where also they may be supply*d with Wine enough, good and cheap : And for my own Part, if I had known before I came hither, I should have gone rather to one of those Islands than to Teneriffe : But enough of this. *Tis reported they can raise 12000 armed Men on this Island. The Governor or General (as he is calfd) of all the Canary Islands lives at Laguna : His Name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a Native of this Island, and was not long since President of Panama in the South Seas; who bringing some very rich Pearls from thence, which he presented to the Queen of Spain, was therefore, as 'tis said, made General of the Canary Islands. The Grand Canary is an Island much superiour to Teneriffe both in Bulk and Value ; but this Gentleman chuses rather to reside in this his native Island. He has the Character of a very worthy Person ; and governs with Moderation and Justice, being very well beloved. One of his Deputies was the Governor of Santa Cruz, with whom I was to have dinM; but stajring so long at 356 GOVERNOR AT SANTA CRUZ n«, 1 cune but Time enough to sup with him. He ak. civil, discreet Man. He resides in the main Fort '^ by the Sea. There is a Centinel stands at his Door ; a few Servants to wait on him. I was treated in lower Room, which has but one small Window, about 20O Muskets hung up against the Walls, ISkes; no Wainscot, Hangings, nor much Furni- Therc was only a small old Table, a few old Chairs, I 1 or 3 pretty long Forms to sit on. Having supp'd h him, I invited htm on Board, and went off in my Boat. c next Morning he came aboard with another Gentleman his Company, attended by 2 Scn>'ants : But he was icntly Sea-sick, and so much out of order, that he could nee eat or drink any Thing, but went quickly ashore in. Having rcfresh'd my Men ashore, and taken in what we I occasion for, I sail'd away from Santa Cruz on Feb. 4 the Afternoon; hastening out all J could, because the E. Winds growing stormy made so great Sea. that the I scarce safe in the Road ; and I was glad to get out, left behind several Goods we had bought and paid : For a Boat could not go ashore ; and the Stress was so u in weighing Anchor, that the Cable broke. I design'd t fof the I. of Mayo, one of the C. Verd Islands; and away with a strong N. E. Wind, right afore it, all that 1^1 aiid the next Day, at the Rate of 10 or 11 Miles an it; when it slackened to a more moderate Gale. The ary blands are, for their Latitude, within the usual jc of the true or general Trade-Wind; which I have rv'd to be, on this Side the Equator, N. Easterly: then lying not far from the African Shore, they roo«< subject to a N. Wind, which is the Coasting constant Trade, sweeping that Coast down as low as to Verd ; which spreading in Breadth, taking in mostly the Islands ; tho* it be there interrupted frequently with true Trade-Wind, N. West-Winds, or other Shifts of Islands arc subject to; especially where they lie •. The Pike of TencrifFe, which had generally while we lay at Santa Cruz, appear *d now all 3J7 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AK. white with Snow, hovering over the other Hills ; but their 1699 Height made it seem the less considerable; for it looks most remarkable to Ships that are to the Westward of it. We had brisk N. N. E. and N. E. Winds from Tencriflfe ; and saw Flying-fish, and a great deal of Sea-thistle Weed floating. By the 9th of Feb. at Noon we were in the Lat. of 1 5 d. 4 m. so we steered away W. N. W. for the I. of Mayo, being by Judgment, not far to the E. of it, and at 8 a Clock in the Evening lay by till Day. The Wind was then at W. by South, and so it continued all Night, fair Weather, and a small easy Gale. All these were great Signs, that we were near some Land, after having had such constant brisk Winds before. In the Morning after Sun-rise, we saw the Island at about 4 Leagues distance. But it was so hazy over it, that we could sec but a small Part of it ; yet even by that Part I knew it to be the Isle of Mayo. See how it appearM to us at several Views, as we were compassing the E. the S. E. and the S. of it, to get to the Road, on the S. W. of it, [Table omitted,] and the Road it self. I got not in till the next Day, Feb. 1 1 , when I come to an Anchor in the Road, which is the Lee-ward Part of the Island ; for 'tis a general Rule, never to anchor to Wind- ward of an Island between the Tropicks. We anchored at II a Clock in 14 Fathom clean Sand, and very smooth Water, about three quarters of a Mile from the Shore, in the same Place where I anchorM in my Voyage round the World ; and found riding here the Newport of London, a Merchant Man, Captain Barefoot Commander, who wel- comed me with 3 Guns, and I returned one for Thanks. He came from|Fayal one of the Western Islands^ ; and had Store of Wine and Brandy aboard. He was taking in Salt to carry to New-found-land, and was very glad to sec one of the King's Ships, being before our coming afi-aid of Pyrates ; which, of late Years, had much infested this and the rest of the Cape Verd Islands.* I have given some Account of the Island of Mayo, and * The Azores. • Sec Johnson's " History of the Pyrates," the Life of Captain Halsey. 358 COASTS OF THE ISLAND OF MAYO f other of these Islands, in my " Voyage round the World " p^ol. I. p. 99], but 1 shall now add some further Observa- '^ tions that occurr'd to mc in this Voyage. The I- of Mayo is about 7 Leagues in Circumference, of a roundish Form, with many small rocky Points shooting out into the Sea a Mile, (IT more. Its Lat. is i j d, N, and as you sail about the ls!e, when you come pretty nigh the Shore, you will see the Water breaking off from those Points ; which you must eivc a Birth to, and avoid them. I sail'd at this Time two Parts in three round the Island, but saw nothing dangerous besides these Points; and they all shew'd themselves by the Breaking of the Water : Yet 'tis reported, that on the N. and N. N. W. Side there are dangerous Sholcs, that lye farther off at Sea ; but I was not on that Side. There are J Hills on this Island of a considerable Heighth ; one pretty bluff, the other pecked at top. The rest of the bland is pretty level, and of a good Heighth from the Sea. The Shore clear round hath sandy Bays, between the rocky Points I spake of; and the whole Island is a very dry Sort of Soil. On the WcM-sidc of the Isle where the Road for Ships U, there is a large sandy Bay, and a Sand-bank, of about 40 Pices wide within it, which runs along the Shore 3 or 3 Miles; within which there is a large Salina or Salt-pond, CDottiaed between the Sand-bank and the Hills beyond it. The whole Silina is about 2 Miles in length, and half a Mile wide; but above one half of it is commonly dry. Tbe North End only of the Pond never wants Water, producing Salt from November till May. which is here the dry Season of the Year. The Water which yields this Salt, works in from out of the Sea through a hole in the Sand- btnk before-mentioned, like a Sluce, and that only in Spring-tides; when it Alls the Pond more or less, according to the Height of the Tides. If there is any Salt in the Ponds when the Flush of Water comes in, it presently dteolves : But then in 2 or 3 Days after it K-gins to kern ; and so continues kerning tilt cither all, or the greatest part of the Salt-water is congeal'd or kcrn'd ; or tilt a fresh Supply of it comes in again from the Sea. This Water is 3S9 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. known to come in only at that one Passage on the N. part of *^ the Pond ; where also it is deepest. It was at a Spring of the New Moon when I was there ; and I was told that it comes in at no other Time but at the New Moon Spring- tides : But why that should be I can't guess. They who come hither to lade Salt rake it up as it kerns, and lay it in Heaps on the dry Land, before the Water breaks in anew : And this is observable of this Salt-Pond, that the Salt kerns only in the dry Season, contrary to the Salt-ponds in the West-Indies, particularly those of the Island Salt-Tortuga, which I have formerly mentioned [Vol. I. p. 85] for they never kern there till the Rains come in about April ; and continue to do so in May, June, July, &c. while the wet Season lasts ; and not without some good Shower of Rain first : But the Reason also of this Difference between the Salt-ponds of MayOj^ and those of the West-Indies, why these should kern in the wet Season, and the former in the dry Season, I shall leave to Philosophers. Our Nation drives here a great Trade for Salt, and have commonly a Man of War here for the Guard of our Ships and Barks that come to take it in ; of which I have been informed that in some Years there have not been less than 100 in a Year. It costs nothing but Men's Labour to rake it together, and wheel it out of the Pond, except the Carriage : And that also is very cheap ; the Inhabitants having Plenty of Asses, for which they have little to do besides carrying the Salt from the Ponds to the Sea-side at the Season when Ships are here. The Inhabitants lade and drive their Asses themselves, being very glad to be imployed ; for they have scarce any other Trade but this to get a Penny by. The Pond is not above half a Mile from the Landing-place, so that the Asses make a great many Trips in a Day. They have a set Number of Turns to and fro both Forenoon and Afternoon, which their Owners will not exceed. At the Landing- place there lies a Frape-boat, as our Seamen call it, to take in the Salt. 'Tis made purposely for this Use, with a Deck reaching from the Stern a third Part of the Boat ; where there is a kind of Bulk-head that rises, not from 360 FR APE-BOATS DESCRIBED the Boat's Bottom, but from the Edge of the Deck, to *». about I Foot in Hcighth; all calk'd very tight. The '*99 Uie of it is to keep the Waves from dashing into the Boat, when it lies with its Head to the Shore, to take in Sail: For here commonly runs a great Sea; and when the Boat lies so with its Head to the Shore, the Sea breaks in over the Stem, and would soon fill it, was it not for thti Bulk-head, which stops the Waves that come flowing apon the Deck, and makes them run off into the Sea each Side. To keep the Boat thus with the Head the Shore, and the Stern to the Sea, there are two ■trong Stantions set up in the Boat; the one at the Head, the other in the Middle of it, against the Bulk-head, and ■ Foot higher than the Bulk-head. There is a large KoCch cut in the Top of each of these Stantions big enough for a small Hazer or Rope to lie in ; one End of which is fastenM to a Post ashore, and the other to Gnpling or Anchor lying a pretty way off at Sea : This Kope servelh to hale the Boat in and out, and the Stantions wm to keep her fast, so that she cannot swing to either Side when the Rope is hal'd tight: For the Sea would dw fill her, or toss her ashore and stave her. The better to prevent her staving and to keep her the tighter together, cbov are two Sets of Ropes more : The first going athwart iirom Gunnal to Gunnal, which, when the Rowers Benches laid, bind the Boats Sdes so hard against the Ends of the Benches that they cannot easily fall asunder, while ihe Benches and Ropes mutually help each other; the h Aopca keeping the Boat's Sides from flying ofl; and the ■ Benches from being crush'd together inwards. Of these V Jtopea there are usually but two, dividing ihc Boat's length, they go across the Sides, into three equal Parts. The ter Set of Ropes arc more in Number, and are so plac'd to keep the Ribs and Planks of the Btiat from starting '. For this Purpose there are Holes made at certain Distances through the Edge of the Keel that runs along the Imtdc of the Boat ; through which these Ropes nog are laid along the Ribs, so as to line them, or be ■ves as Ribs upon them, being made fast to them 361 I them 3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. by Rattan's brought thither, or small Cords twisted close '^ about both Ropes and Ribs, up to the Gunnal : By which Means tho' several of the Nails or Pegs of the Boat should by any Shock fall out, yet the Ropes of these two Sets might hold her together : Especially with the Help of a Rope going quite round about the Gunnal on the out-side, as our Long-boats have. And such is the Care taken to strengthen the Boats; from which girding them with Ropes, which our Seamen call Fraping,* they have the Name of Frape-boats, Two Men suffice to hale her in and out, and take in the Salt from Shore (which is brought in Bags) and put it out again. As soon as the Boat is brought nigh enough to the Shore, he who stands by the Bulk-head takes instantly a turn with the Hazer about the Bulk-head-Stantion ; and that stops her fast before the Sea can turn her aside : And when the two Men have got in their Lading, they hale off to Sea, till they come a little without the Swell; where they remove the Salt into another Boat that carries it on board the Ship. Without such a Frape-boat here is but bad Landing at any Time : For tho' 'tis commonly very smooth in the Road, yet there falls a great Sea on the Shore, so that every Ship that comes here should have such a Boat, and bring, or make, or borrow one of other Ships that happen to be here ; for the Inhabitants have none. I have been thus particular in the Description of these Frape-boats, because of the Use they may be of in any Places where a great Sea falls in upon the Shore : as it doth especially in many open Roads in the East and West-Indies ; where they might therefore be very serviceable ; but I never saw any of them there. The Island Mayo is generally barren, being dry, as I said ; and the best of it is but a very indifferent Scnl. The sandy Bank that pens in the Salt-pond hath a Sort of Silk Cotton growing upon it, and a Plant that runs along upon the Ground, branching out like a Vine, but with thick broad Leaves. The Silk-Cotton grows on ^ Frapping ; to frap is to wrap about with rope. 362 ■ SILK COTTON ■ ^koder Shrubs, 3 or 4 Foot high, in Cods as big as an MtM ^Rpple, but of a long Shape ; which when ripe open at '^ ^■tac Knd, parting leisurely into 4 (Quarters; and at the ^^Bit opening the Cotton breaks forth. It may be of use ^■pr stuffing of Pillows, or the like ; but else is of no Value, ^Bnjr more than that of the great Cotton-tree. 1 took of ^Bbese Cods before they were quite ripe, and laid them in ^Biy Chest ; and tn 2 or 3 Days they would open and ^■irow out the Cotton. Others I have bound fast with ^Btrings, so that the Cod could not open; and in a few ^Bkys after, as soon as 1 slackned the String never so ^^Rtk, the Cod would burst, and the Cotton fly out ^^prceably, at a very little Hole, just as the Pulp out of ^B roasting Apple, till all has been out of the Cod. I met ^Bnth this Sort of Cotton afterwards at Timor (where it ^^ms ripe in November) and no where else in all my ^H'nvcls; but I found two other Sorts of Silk-cotton at ^Brazil, which 1 shall there describe. The right Cotton- ^^rtirub grows here also, but not on the Sand-bank. I saw »ome Bushes of it near the Shore ; but the most of it is planted in the Middle of the Isle, where the Inhabitants ^^irc. Cotton-cloth being their chief Manufacture ; but ^Ketther is there any great Store of this Cotton. There ^BPw are some Trees within the Island, but none to be ^Te«n near the Sea-side ; nothing but a few Bushes scattering up and down against the Sides of the adjacent Hills ; for, as I said before, the Land is pretty high from the Sea. The Soil is for the most part cither a Sort of Sand, or loose crumbling Stone, without any fresh Water Ponds or Strtams, to moisten it ; but only Showers in the Wcl- leuon, which run nflF as fast as they fall ; except a small Spring in the Middle of the Isle, from which proceeds a little Stream of Water that runs through a Valley between the Hills. There the Inhabitants live in three small Town*, having a Church and Padre in each Town : And these Towns, as I was inform'd, arc 6 or 7 Miles the Koad. Pinose is said to be the chief Town, to have 2 Churches : St. John's the next ; and the Lagoa. The Houses are very mean ; small, low 3«3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AK. Things. They build with Fig-tree; here being, as I >699 was told, no other Trees fit to build with. The Rafters are a Sort of wild Cane. The Fruits of this Isle arc chiefly Figs, and Water-Melons. They have also Calla- vances (a Sort of Pulse like French Beans) and Pumpkins, for ordinary Food. The Fowls are Flamingo's, Great Curlews, and Guinea-Hens ; * which the Natives of those Islands call Gallena Pintata^ or the Painted Hen ; but in Jamaica, where I have seen also those Birds in the dry Savannah's and Woods, (for they love to run about in such Places) they are call'd Guinea-Hens. They seem to be much of the Nature of Partridges. They are bigger than our Hens, have long Legs, and will run ap)ace. They can fly too, but not far, having large heavy Bodies, and but short Wings and short Tails: As I have generally observed that Birds have seldom long Tails unless such as fly much ; in which their Tails are usually serviceable to their turning about, as a Rudder to a Ship or Boat These Birds have thick and strong, yet sharp Bills, pretty long Claws, and short Tails. They feed on the Ground, either on Worms, which they find by tearing open the Earth; or on Grashoppers, which are plentiful here. The Feathers of these Birds are speckled with dark and light Grey ; the Spots so regular and uniform, that they look more beautiful than many Birds that arc deck'd with gayer Feathers. Their Necks are small and long; their Heads also but little. The Cocks have a small Rising on their Crowns, like a Sort of a Comb. *Tis of the Colour of a dry Wallnut-shell, and very hard. They have a small red Gill on each side of their Heads, like Ears, strutting out downwards ; but the Hens have none. They are so strong that one cannot hold them ; and very hardy. They are very good Meat, tender, and sweet; and in some the Flesh is extraordinary white ; tho' some others have black Flesh: But both Sorts are very good. The Natives take them with Dogs, running them down whenever they please; for here are Abundance of them. ' Numida meleagris. BIRDS AND BEASTS— FISH fou shall sec 2 or 3G0 in 2 Company. 1 had several ah^ xjught aboard alive, where they throve very well ; some '^ chcm 16 or 18 Months; when they began to pine. Vhen they are taken young they will become tame like Hens. The Flamingo's 1 have already describ'd at ■ [Vol. I. p. 99]. They have also many other Sort Fowls, viz. Hdgcons and Turtle-doves ; Mtniota's, a of Land-fowls as big as Crows, of a grey Colour, good Food ; Crusia's, another Sort of grcy-colour'd wl almost as big as a Crow, which are only seen in the Night (probably a Sort of Owls) and are said to be good for consumptive People, but eaten by none else. _ikabek*s, a Sort of lai^e grey eatable Fowls with long i and Legs, not unlike Herons; and many Kinds ' small Birds. Of Land-Animals, here are Goats, as I said formerly, I Abcs good Store. When I was here before they were 1 to have had a great many Bulls and Cows: Bui the 'mtei, who have since miserably infested all these Islands, much Icsscn'il the Number of those; not having r'd the Inhabitants themselves: for at my being there s Time the Governor of Mayo was but newly rctum'd from being a Prisoner among them, they having taken him away, and carried him about with them for a Year or two. The Sea is plentifully stock'd with Fish of divers Sorts, .-iz. Dolphins, Boneta's, Mullets, Snappers, Silver-fish, Gar- lish. &C. and here is a good Bay to hale a Sain or Net in. I hml'd mine several Times, and to good Purpose ; dragging iihore at one Time 6 Dozen of great Fish, most of them large Mullets of a Foot and a half or two Foot long. Here are also Porposes, and a small Sort of Whales, that :oaimonly visit this Road every Day. I have already said, 'Vol. I. p. 104] That the Months of May, June, July iiid August, (that is, the wet Season) are the Time when 'he green Turtle come hither, and go ashore to lay their Fggs. I look upon it as a Thing worth taking Notice >^ that the Turtle should always, both in North and South Latitude, lay their Eggs tn the wet Months. It tnigbt be thought, considering what great Rains there are 36J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. then in some Places where these Creatures lay, that their 1699 Eggs should be spoiled by them. But the Rain, tho' violent, is soon soaked up by the Sand, wherein the Eggs are buried ; and perhaps sinks not so deep into it as the Eggs are laid : Aiid keeping down the Heat may make the Sand hotter below than it was before, like a Hot-bed. Whatever the Reason may be why Providence determines these Creatures to this Season of laying their Eggs, rather than the dry, in Fact it is so, as I have constantly observ'd ; and that not only with the Sea-Turtle, but with all other Sorts of amphibious Animals that lay Eggs ; as Crocodib, Alligators, Guano's, &c. The Inhabitants of this Island, even their Govemour and Padre's, are all Negro's, Wod- pated like their African-Neighbours ; from whom 'tis like they are descended ; tho' being Subjects to the Portuguezc, they have their Religion and Language. They are stout, lusty, well-limb'd People, both Men and Women, fat and fleshy ; and they and their Children as round and plump as little Porposes; tho' the Island appears so barren to a Stranger as scarce to have Food for its Inhabitants. I inquired how many People there might be on the Isle ; and was told by one of the Padre's that here were 230 Souls in all. The Negro-Governour has his Patent from the Portugueze Governour of St. Jago. He is a very civil and sensible poor Man ; and they are generally a good Sort of People. He expects a small Present from every Com- mander that lades Salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard their Ships. He spends most of his Time with the English in the Salting Season, which is his Harvest ; and indeed, all the Islanders are then fully employed in getting somewhat ; for they have no Vessels of their own to trade with, nor do any Portugueze- Vessels come hither: scarce any but English, on whom they depend for Trade: and tho' Subjects of Portugal, have a particular Value for us. We don t pay them for their Salt, but for the Labour of themselves and their Beasts in lading it : for which we give them Victuals ; some Money, and old Cloaths, viz. Hats, Shirts, and other Cloaths : By which Means many of them are indifferently well rigg'd ; but some of them go almost 366 M^MMteMflMAAi^iriyBS. EMPLOYMENTS OF THE NATIVES ;cd- When the Turtle-season comes in they watch the aw. ' y-bays in the Night to turn them ; and having small '^ its at particular Places on ihe Bays to keep them from : Rain, and to sleep in: And this is another Harvest ry have for Food ; for by Report there come a great iny Turtle lo this and the rest of the Cape Verd Islands. hen the Turtle Season is over they have little to do, but hum for Guinea-Hens, and manage their small Planta- ns. But by these Means they have all the Year some nploymeni or other; whereby they get a Subsistence, >' but little else. When any of them are desirous to go a to St. Jago they get a Licence from the Governour, and Bre Passage in any English Ship that is going thither: indeed all Ships that lade Salt here will be obliged to at St. Jago for Water, for here at the Bay is none, ao much as for drinking. 'Tis true there is a small ell of brackish Water not half a Mile from the Landing- , which the Asses that carry Salt drink at ; but 'tis bad Water. Asses themselves are a Commodity in of these Islands, several of our Ships coming hither ily to freight with them, and carry them to Bar- and our other Plantations. 1 stay'd ac Mayo 6 Days, got 7 or 8 Ton of Salt aboard for my Voyage : In which ae there came also into this Road several Sail of Mer- nts Ships for Salt; all bound wiih it for Newfoundland, The 19th Day of February, at about One a Clock in Morning I weighed from Mayo-Road, in order to :cr at St. jago, whith was about 5 or 6 Leagues to the 'cttward. We coasted along the Island St. Jago. and ft by the Port on the East of it, I mention'd formerly 'oL. I. p. 104] which they call Praya ; ' where some Iglish outward-bound East-India Men still touch, but I so many of them as heretofore. We saw the Fort ion the Hill, the Houses and Coco-nut Trees: But I nld not go in to anchor here, because 1 expected better >ter on the S- W. of the Island, at St. Jago Town. By * Porto Prmia, "was Mwnc three tcagut plafMi on hiitli, witb a ifoodly baf." ■ tB November, 158$. 367 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. 8 a Clock in the M(»-ning we saw the Ships in that Rood, *^ being within 3 Leagues of it : But were forc*d to keep Turning many Hours to get in, the Flaws of Wind coming so uncertain; as they do especially to the Leeward d Islands that are high Land. At length two Portugueze Boats came off to help tow us in ; and about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor ; and took the Prospect of the Town. We found here, besides two Portugueze Ships bound for Brazil, whose Boats had tow*d us in, an English Pink that had taken in Asses at one of the Cape Verd Islands, and was bound to Barbadoes with them. Next Morning I went ashore with my Officers to the Govemour, who treated us with Sweet-meats : I told him, the Occasion of my coming was chiefly for Water ; and that I desired also to take in some Refreshments of Fowls, &c. He said I was welcome, and that he would order the Townsmen to bring their Com- modities to a certain House, where I might purchase what I had occasion for : I told him I had not Money, but would exchange some of the Salt which I brought from Mayo for their Commodities. He reply*d, that Salt was indeed an acceptable Commodity with the poor People, but that if I designed to buy any Cattle, I must give Money for them. I contented my self with taking in Dunghill Fowls : The Govemour ordering a Cryer to go about the Town and give Notice to the People, that they might repair to such a Place with Fowls and Maiz for feeding them, where they might get Salt in Exchange for them: So I sent on Board for Salt, and ordered some of my Men to truck the same for the Fowls and Maiz, while the rest of them were busy in filling of Water. This is the Efiect of their keeping no Boats of their own on the several Islands, that they are glad to buy even their own Salt of Foreigners, for want of being able to transport it them- selves from Island to Island. St. Jago Town ^ lies on the S. W. part of the Island, in ' The town of St. lago, or Santiago, is figured in Bigges's *' Summarie and True Discourse " of Sir Francis Drake's " Indies Voyage." Drake sacked and burned it November 17, 1585, it being then a fine town of 600 368 ST. JAGO TOWN— NATIVES 1 Lat. about 15 Dcg. N. and is the seat of the General ah. 9 Govcrnour, and of the Bishop of all the Cape Verd '^ Islands. This Town stands scattering against the Sides of two Mounuins, between which there is a deep Valley, which is about 200 Yards wide against the Sea ; but within a quarter of a Mile it closes up so as not to be 40 Yards wide. In the Valley, by the Sea, there is a straggling Street, Houses on each Side, and a Run of Water in the Bottom, which empties it self into a fine small Cove or I sandy Bay, where the Sea is commonly very smooth ; so I that here is good Watering and good Landing at any I Time ; iho' the Road be rocky and bad for Ships. Just I by the Landing-place there is a small Fort, almost level I with the Sea, where is always a Court of Guard kept. On I the Top of the Hill, above the Town, there is another I FoTT ; which, by the Wall that is to be seen from the I Koad, seems to be a large Place. They have Cannon I mounted there, but how many know I not : Neither what I use that Fort can be of, except it be for Salutes. The I Town may consist of 2 or 300 Houses, all built of rough I StOQc; having also one Convent, and one Church. I The People in general arc black, or at least of a mixt 1 Colour, except only some few of the better Sort, viz. the Govcrnour, the Bt^op, some Gentlemen, and some of the Padret; fcr some of these also are black. The People J about Praya arc Thievish; but these of St. Jago Town, I living under their Govcrnour 's Eye, are more orderly, tho' I lerally poor, having little Trade: Yet besides chance I > of other Nations, there come hither a Portugueze I or two every Year, in their way to Brazil. These I I among them a few Kuropcan Commodities, and lake I •--rir pnncipal Manufactures, viz. striped Cotton-cloth, I they carry with them to Brazil. Here is also I her Ship comes hither from Portugal for Sugar, their I Manufacture, and returns with it directly thither : I 'tis reported that there are several small Sugar-works I . . Dnlu/f mm found no treasure llicrc, for "a Poningall" I h a flan of Frcitrhmcn, hud mnfacktrd it but three jciin before I dacun in IS96, by Sir Anihony ^hcrley, I 369 2 A I CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. on this Island, from which they send home near lOoTon *^ every Year ; and they have plenty of Cotton growing up in the Country, wherewith they cioath themselves, and send also a great deal to Brazil. They have Vines, of which they make some Wine; but the European Ships furnish them with better ; tho* they drink but little of any. Their chief Fruits are, (besides Plantains in Abundance) Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Melons, (both Musk and Water-melons) Limes, Guava*s, Pom^ranates, Quinces, Custard-Appies, and Papah*s, &c. The Custard-Apple ^ (as we call it) is a Fruit as big as a Pomegranate, and much of the same Colour. The out- side Husk, Shell or Rind, is for Substance and Thickness between the Shell of a Pomegranate, and the Peel of a Sevil-Orange ; softer than this, yet more brittle than that The Coat or Covering is also remarkable in that it is beset round with small regular Knobs or Risings ; and the Inside of the Fruit is full of a white soft Pulp, sweet and very pleasant, and most resembling a Custard of any Thing, both in Colour and Taste ; from whence probably it is called a Custard-Apple by our English. It has in the Middle a few small black Stones or Kernels ; but no Core, for *tis all Pulp. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about the Bigness of a Quince-tree, with long, small, and thick- set Branches spread much abroad : At the Extremity of here and there one of which the Fruit grows upon a Stalk of its own about 9 or lo Inches long, slender and tough, and hanging down with its own Weight. A large Tree of this Sort does not bear usually above 20 or 30 Apples; seldom more. This Fruit grows in most Countries within the Tropicks. I have seen of them (tho* I omitted the Description of them before) all over the West-Indies, both Continent and Islands ; as also in Brazil, and in the East- Indies. The Papah too is found in all these Countries, tho' I have not hitherto described it. It is a Fruit about the Bigness of a Musk-Melon, hollow as that is, and much * Anona reticuiata, 370 PAPAH— ANIMALS OF ST. JAGO it in Shape 2nd Colour, both Outside and Inude : 1 le Middle, instead of flat Kernels, which the '' re, these have z hand/ul of small blackish Seeds, ligncss of Pepper-corns ; whose Taste is also hot 00 the Tongue somewhat like Pepper. The Fruit it self is tweci, soft and luscious, when ripe; but while green 'tis lurd and unsavory : tho' even then being boiled and ^hten with Salt-pork or Beef, it serves instead of Turnips, ^^fad is as much esteemed. The Papah-Tree is about 10 or ^D2 Foot high. The Body near ihe Ground may be a Foot ' ind an half or 2 Foot Diameter ; and it grows up tapering to the Top. It has no Branches at all, but only large Leaves growing immediately upon Stalks irom the Body. The Leaves arc of a roundish Form and jagg'd about the Edge5, having their Stalks or Stumps longer or shorter as tbcy grow near to or further from the Top. They b^tn to spring from out of the BoJy of the Tree at j^ut 6 or 7 Foot hcighih from the Ground, the Trunk being bare below • But above that the Leaves grow thicker and larger idit towards its Top, where they are clo&e and broad. The Fruit grows only among the Leaves; and thickest among the thickest uf them; insomuch that towards the Top of the Tree the Papahs spring forth from its Body as ttuck as they can stick one by another. But then lower jlown, where the Leaves art thinner, the Fruit is larger, id of the Size I have dcscrib'd ; And at the Top, where key arc thick, they are but small, and no bigger than dinary Turnips; yet tasted like the rest. Their chief Land-Animals arc their Bullocks, which E taid to be many ; tho' they ask us 20 Dollars apiece for They have also Horses, Asses, and Mules, Deer, Hogs, and hiack-fac'd long-tail'd Monkeys. Of powis they have Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Guinea-Hens, Jth umc and wild, Parrakitcs, Parrots, Pidgeons, Turtie- «s. Herons, Hawks, Crab-catchers, Galdens (a larger of Crab-catchers) Curlews, &c. Their Fish is the ne as at Mayo and the rest of these Islands, and for the ifit part these Islands have the same Beasts and Birds , But some uf the Isles have Pasturage and Kmploy- 371 4 '"^1 I *^. 'ill • 1' I; - 1 1 CHAP. II J*A* j/.'j DtUltrathn tn tht Sr/p4tl of his Fayagty and Dtparturt from St. Jup. fill Ctursff and tht JVmdi, iffc. in trsning tht Line, Hf itanJi away for tht Bay ef All-Sainti in Brazil; and why. Hit Arrival tn that Ceait and In the Bay. Of tht several Forit, tht Read, Situatian, Tetvn^ and Buildings ef Bahia. Of its Gevrrtteur, Shifts and Merchants ; and Cammaditits to and from EtH-tpt. Claying of Sugar. The Season for the European Ships, mmd Ceire Cat/rt : Of their Guinea-trade, and ef the Coasting' tratie, and It^ha/e-ii/ling. Of the Inhabitants of Bahia ,- thtir earrying in Hammocks ; their Artificers, Crane for Goods, ami Negn-Slavei, Of the Country ahout Bahia, its SoiJ and Product. Its Timker trees ,■ the Sapiera, Fermiatico, Csmtsserie, Guitleta, Strrie, and Maugrmes. The Bastard-Coco, its Nuts and Cables ; and the Silt-Cction-trets, Tht Brazilian Fruits, Oranges, i^c. Of ih* Stttr-s^ps, Casheuj's, and Jeanipoh's. Of their peculiar Frmili, Arisah's, Mtricasah's, Peiange's, Petumio's, Mungaroe's, Mmkishau/'sy Ingwa's, Olre's, and Afuileran de ma's. Of tht Palm-ttrriei, Phyilci-nuti, Mendiiee's, Ufc. and their Roots and Herts, ijc. Of their Ifild-Fowl, Afaccaw's, Parrots, i:fc. Tht frmma, Carritit-erotv, and Chaltering-crnv, Bill-hird, Curreu, Tmrtit-JfVf and tfild-pigeons ; the Jenetee, ClocHng-hen, Crab- tKtfhrr, Gulden, and black Heron : The Duetts, It^igton end Teal { mitd Ostriches to tht Southward, and of the Dunghill-fowls. Of their Cattle, Htritt, ifc. Ltopards and Tiger's. OJ their Sir- faa* ; tht Rattle-Snake, small Green-Snake, Jmphisbtrna, small hhtk and small Grey-Snake ,- the great Land, and the great ff^ater-Sfuie : And of the ffattr-dog. Of their Sea-fish and Tmrtte ; and if St. Paufs-Tnm. H AVING dispatched my small Affairs at the C. Verd Islands, I meditated on the Process ' of my Voyage. I thought it requisite to touch once more at a cultivated Place in these Seas, \tM ly Meo might be rcfrcsh'd, and might have a )'| 373 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AW. Market wherein to furnish themselves with Necessaries: 1699 For designing that my next Stretch should be quite to N. Holland, and knowing that after so long a Run nothing was to be expected there but fresh Water, if I could meet even with that there, I resolved upon putting in first at some Port of Brazil, and to provide my self there with whatever I might have further Occasion for. Beside the refreshing and furnishing my Men, I aim*d also at the inuring them gradually and by Intervals to the Fatigues that were to be expected in the Remainder of the Voyage, which was to be in a part of the World they were alto- gether Strangers to ; none of them, except two young Men, having ever crossed the Line. * With this Design I sailed from St. Jago on the 2 2d of February, with the Winds at E. N. E. and N. E. fur Weather, and a brisk Gale. We steered away S. S. E. and S. S. E. half East, till in the Lat. of 7 deg. 50. min. we met with many Riplings in the Sea like a Tide or strong Current, which setting against the Wind caus*d such a Ripling. We continu d to meet these Currents from that Lat. till we came into the Lat. of 3 deg. 22 N. when they ceased. During this Time we saw some Boneta*s, and Sharks ; catching one of these. We had the true general Trade-Wind blowing fresh at N. E. till in the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. when the Wind varied, and we had small Gales, with some Tornadoes. We were then to the East of St. Jago 4 deg. 54 min. when we got into Lat. 3 d^. 2 min. N. (where I said the Ripling ceas'd) and Long, to the East of St. Jago 5 deg. 2 min. we had the Wind whiffling between the S. by E. and E. by N. small Gales, frequent Calms, very black Clouds, with much Rain. In the Lat. of 3 deg. 8 min. N. and Long. E. from St. Jago 5 deg. 8 min. we had the Wind from the S. S. E. to the N. N. E. faint, and often interrupted with Calms. While we had Calms we had the Opportunity of trying the Current we had met with hitherto, and found that it set N. E. by E. half a Knot, which is 12 Mile in 24 Hours: So that here it ran at the Rate of half a Mile an Hour, and had been much stronger before. The Rains held us 374 THE AUTHOR CROSSES THE LINE nervals till the Lat. of r deg. o min. N. with small Gxics of Wind between S. S. E. and S. E. by E. and some- ' times calm : Afterwards we had the Wind between the S. , S, S. E. till we cross 'd the Line, small Winds, Calms, pretty fair Weather, We saw but few Fish beside 3 ; but of them a great many, and struck one of It was the lOth day of March, about the Time of the Iquinox, when we cross'd the Equator, having had all J from the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. where the true rsdc-wind icft us, a great Swell out of the S. E. and but all uncertain Gales, mostly Southerly, so that we crept I the Southward but slowly. I kept up against these as dl as I could to the Southward, and when we had now then a Flurry of Wind at E. I still went away due ■outb, purposely to get to the Southward as fast as I could ; for white near the Line 1 expected to have but uncertain Winds, frequent Calms, Rains, Tornadoes, &c. which " ", not only retard my Course, but endanger Sickness ► among my Men : especially those who were ill pro- with Cloalhs, or were too lazy to shift themselves they were drcnch'd with the Rains. The Heat of : Weather made them careless of doing this; but taking ■am of Brandy, which I gave them when wet, with a ■gc to shift themselves, they would however lye down leir Hammocks with their wet Cloaths ; so that when tum'd out they caus'd an ill Smell whcrc-cver they .and their Hammocks would stink sufficiently; that , the remedying of this is worth the Care of Com- 3 that cross the Line ; especially when they arc, it , a Month or more e'er they get out of the Rains, times of the Year, as in June, July, or August. I have here said about the Currents, Winds, flee, in this Passage, is chiefly for the farther "ation of what I have heretofore obscrv'd in general t these Matters, and especially as to crossing the Line, my •' Discourse of the Winds. &c. in the Torrid Zone " : ; Vol. I[, Part 3. p. 235]. Which Observations I have irery much confinn'd to me in the Course of this 375 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Voyage; and I shall particularize in several of the chief 1699 of them as they come in my Way. And indeed I think I may say this of the main of the Observations in that Treatise, that the clear Satisfaction I had about them, and how much I might rely upon them, was a great Ease to my Mind during this vexatious Voyage ; wherein the Ignorance, and Obstinacy withal, of some under me, occasioned me a great deal of Trouble : Tho* they found all along, and were often forc*d to acknowledge it, that I was seldom out in my Conjectures, when I told them usually beforehand what Winds, &c. we should meet with at such or such particular Places we should come at. Pernambuc was the Port that I designed for at my first setting out from St. Jago ; it being a Place most proper for my Purpose, by Reason of its Situation, lying near the I Extremity of C. St. Augustine, the Easternmost Promontory of Brazil ; by which means it not only enjoys the greater Benefit of the Sea-breezes, and is consequently more healthy than other Places to the Southward, but is withal less subject to the Southerly Coasting-Trade-winds, that blow half the Year on this Shore ; which were now drawing on, and might be troublesome to me : So that I might both hope to reach soonest Pernambuc, as most directly and nearest in my Run ; and might thence also more easily get away to the Southward than from Bahia de Todos los Santos, or Ria Janeira. But notwithstanding these Advantages I proposed to my self in going to Pernambuc, I was soon put by that Design through the Refractoriness of some under me, and the Discontents and Backwardness of some of my Men. For the Calms and Shiftings of Winds which I met with, as I was to expect, in crt)ssing the Line, made them, who were unacquainted with these Matters, almost heartless as to the Pursuit of the Voyage, as thinking we should never be able to weather Cape St. Augustine : And though I told them that by that Time we should get to about three Degrees South of the Line, we should again have a true brisk general Trade-Wind from the North-East, that would carry us to what part of Brazil we pleas'd, yet they 376 WHY HE QUITTED HIS DESIGN found This pith It so. not necessary to be would not believe it till they iCitnc other unforeseen Accidents, mention "d in this Place, meeting with the Aversion of my Men to a long unknown Voyage, made me justly appre- I hensivc of their Revolting, and was a great Trouble and i Hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my Measures, and met with many difficulties, the Par- ticulars of which I shall not trouble the Reader with : But ] mention thus much of it in general for my own necessary Vindication, in my taking such Measures sometimes for prosecuting the Voyage as the State of my Ships Crew, rather than my own Judgment and Experience, determin'd me lo. The Disorders of my Ship made me think at present that Pcmambuc would not be so fit a Place for me ; being told that Ships ride there 2 or 3 Leagues from the Town, under the Command of no Forts; so that whenever I should have been ashore it might have been easy for my discontented Crew to have cut or slipt their ibles, and have gone away from me: Many of them Ting already an Intention to return to England, and nc of them declaring openly that they would go no rther onwards than Brazil. I alter'd my Course therc- *, and stood away for Bahio de todos los Santos, or the Uy of all Saints, where 1 hop'd to have the Governour's Help, if need should require, for securing my Ship from any such mutinous Attempt ; being forced to keep my self all the way upon my Guard, and to lie with my Officers, such as I could trust, and with small Arms upon the Quancr-Dcck ; it scarce being safe for me to lie in my Cabbin, by Reason of the Discontents among my Men. 1 1 On the 23d of March we saw the Land of Brazil; hiving had thither, from the lime when we came into the tnie Trade-wind ^ain after crossing the Line, very fair Weather and brisk Gales, mostly at K. N. E. The Land we saw was about 20 Leagues to the North of Bahia ; so i coasted along Shore to the Southward. This Coast rather low than high, with Sandy-Bays all along by '*^ - , A little within Land are many very whiU^^DOC^J^^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Sand, appearing like Show ; and the Coast looks very ^^ pleasant, being checkered with Woods and Savannahs. j The Trees in general are not tall ; but they arc green and flourishing. There are many small Houses by the Sea-side, whose Inhabitants are chiefly Fishermen. They [~come ofF to Sea on Bark-logs, made of several Logs fasten*d I^Side to Side, that have one or two Masts with Sails to them. •" There are two Men in each Bark-log, one at either End, \^ having small low Benches, raised a little above the Logs, I to sit and fish on, and two Baskets hanging up at the Mast or Masts; one to put their Provisions in, the other for their Fish. Many of these were a-fishing now, and 2 of them came aboard, of whom I bought some Fish. In the Afternoon we sailed by one very remarkable Piece of Land, where, on a small pleasant Hill, there was a Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. See a Sight of some Parts of this Coast [Table omitted] and of the Hill the Church stands on. I coasted along till the Evening, and then brought to, and lay by till the next Morning. About 2 Hours after we were brought to, there came a Sail out of the Offin (from Seaward) and lay by about a Mile to Windward rf us, and so lay all Night. In the Morning upon speaking with her, she proved to be a Portugueze Ship bound to Bahia; therefore I sent my Boat aboard and desired to have one of his Mates to Pilot me in : He answer d, thit he had not a Mate capable of it, but that he would sail in before me, and shew me the way ; and that if he went into the Harbour in the Night, he would hang out a Light for me. He said we had not far in, and might reach it before Night with a tolerable Gale; but that with so small an one as now we had we could not do it : So we joggM on till Night, and then he accordingly hung out his Light, which we steered after, sounding as we went in. I kept til my Men on Deck, and had an Anchor ready to let go on occasion. We had the Tide of Ebb against us, so that wc went in but slowly ; and it was about the Middle of the Night when we anchor'd. Immediately the Portugueze Master came aboard to see me, to whom I returned Thanks 378 THE AUTHOR ANCHORS Civilities; and indeed I found much Respect, not only from this Gentleman, but from ail of that Nation ' both here and in other Places, who were ready to serve me on all Occasions. The Place that we anchored in was about two Miles from the Harbour where the Ships generally ride; but the Fear 1 had lest my People should run away with the Ship, made mc hasccn to get a Licence from the G*ivcmor, to run up into the Harbour, and ride among their Ships, close by one of their Forts. So on the 2jth of March about lo a Clock in the Morning, the Tide serving, I went thither, being piloted by the Super-intend- »nt there, whose Business it is to carry up all the King of Tonugal's Ships that come hither, and to see them well ioor(5. He brought us to an Anchor right against the 1 viwn, at the outer Part of the Harbour, which was then : -.1 of Ships, within 150 Yards of a small Fort that stands 1 a Rock half t Mile from the Shore. See a Prospect of :e Harbour and the Town, as it appear 'd to us while wc lay at Anchor [omitted]. Bahia de todos los Santos lies in Lat. 13 deg. S. It h the most considerable Town in Brazil, whether in Respect f the Beauty of its Buildings, its Bulk, or its Trade and K-wmuc It has the Convenience of a good Harbour that : capable of receiving Ships of the greatest Burthen : The j»ce of which is guarded with a strong Fort standing hout the Harbour, call'd St. Antonio : A Sight of which ■ve given [I'ablc omitted] as it appeared to us the "noon before we came in ; and its Lights (which they ; out purposely for Ships) we saw the same Night. : are other smaller Forts that command the Harbour, : of which sunds on a Rock in the Sea, about half a lie from the Shore. Close by this Fort all Ships must i that anchor here, and must ride also within half a lie o( it at farthest between this and another Fort (that I a Point at the inner part of the Harbour and is I the Dutch Fort) hut must ride nearest to the former, ■long against the Town : Where there is good holding ouod, and less exposed to the Southerly Winds that r very hard hcrr. They commonly set in about April, 379 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. but blow hardest in May, June, July and August : But the '^ place where the Ships ride is exposed to these Winds not above 3 Points of the Compass. Beside these, there is another Fort fronting the Harbour, and standing on the Hill upon which the Town stands. The Town it self consists of about 2CXX) Houses; the major part of which cannot be seen from the Harbour; but so many as appear in Sight, with a great Mixture of Trees between them, and all placed on a rising Hill, make a very pleasant Prospect ; as may be judgM by the Draught, [Table omitted]. There are in the Town 1 3 Churches, Chapels, Hospitals, Convents, beside one Nunnery ; viz. the Ecclesia Major or Cathedral, the Jesuits College, which arc the chief, and both in Sight from the Harbour : St. Antonio, Sta. Barbara, both Parish-Churches; the Franciscans Church, and the Dominicans ; and 2 Convents of Carmelites ; a Chapel for Seamen close by the Sea-side, where Boats commonly land, and the Seamen go immediately to Prayers ; another Chapel for poor People, at the farther End of the same Street, which runs along by the Shore; and a third Chapel for Soldiers, at the Edge of the Town remote from the Sea; and an Hospital in the Middle of the Town. The Nunnery stands at the outer-edge of the Town next the Fields, wherein by Report there are 70 Nuns. Here lives an ' Arch-bishop, who has a fine Palace in the Town ; and the Governor's Palace is a fair Stone-building, and looks hand- some to the Sea, tho' but indifferently furnished within: Both Spaniards and Portugueze in their Plantations abroad, as I have generally observed, affecting to have large Houses; but are little curious about Furniture, except Pictures some of them. The Houses of the Town are 2 or 3 Stories high, the Walls thick and strong, being built with Stone, with a Covering of Pantile; and many of them have Balconies. The principal Streets are large, and all of them pav'd or pitched with small Stones. There are also Parades in the most eminent Places of the Town, and many Gardens, as well within the Town as in the Out-parts of it, wherein are Fruit-trees, Herbs, Salladings and Flowers 380 SOLDIERS AND MERCHANTS great Variety, but ordcr'd with no great Care nor Art. _ ' The Governor who resides here is ctll'd Don John de Lancastrio, being descended, as they say, from our English Lancuter Family ; and he has a Respect for our Nation on thai Account, calling them his Counir>'-men. 1 waited on him Kvcral Times, and always found him very courteous and civil. Here are about 400 Soldiers in Garrison. They commonly draw up and exercise in a lai^e Parade before the Govcrnour's House; and many of them attend him ben he goes abroad. The Soldiers are decently clad in wn Linncn, which in these hot Countries is far better Woollen ; but I never saw any clad in Linnen but |ly these. Beside the Soldiers in Pay, he can soon have ne Tliousands of Men up in Arms on occasion. The ne is on the Skirts of the Town, on a small Rising 1 the Nunnery and the Soldiers Church. 'Tis big ugh to hold 2 or 3000 Barrels of Powder; but I was 1 It seldom has more than icx), sometimes but 80. There are always a Band of Soldiers 10 guard it, and Ceotinels looking out both Day and Night. A great many Merchants always reside at Bahia ; for 'til a Place of great Trade : I found here above 30 great Ship* from Europe, with 2 of the King of Portugal's Ships War for their Convoy ; beside 2 Ships that traded to tfrica only, either to Angola, Gamha, or other Places on ; Coui of Guinea ; and Abundance of small Craft, that Illy run to and fro on this Coast, carrying Commodities Dm one Pan of Brazil to another. The Merchants that live here arc said to be rich, and t have many Negro-Slaves in their Houses, both of Men 1 Women. Themselves arc chiefly Portuguezc, Foreigners fios but little Commerce with them ; yet here was one Ir. Cock an English Merchant, a very civil Gentleman and of good Repuie. He had a Patent to be our English Consul, but did not Care to take upon him any publick ■actcr, because English Ships seldom come hither, here nng been none in 1 1 or 1 2 Years before this Time. Here i also a Dane, and a French Merchant or two ; but all 38" CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. have their EfFects transported to and from Europe in Portu- '^ gueze Ships, none of any other Nation being admitted to trade hither. There is a Custom-house by the Sea-side, where all Goods imported or exported are entred. And to prevent Abuses there are 5 or 6 Boats that take their Turns to row about the Harbour, searching any Boats they suspect to be running of Goods. The chief Commodities that the European Ships bring hither, are Linnen-Cloaths, both coarse and fine; some Woollens also, as Bays, Searges, Perpetuana*s, &c. Hats, Stockings, both of Silk and Thread, Bisket-bread, Wheat- flower, Wine (chiefly Port) Oil-Olive, Butter, Cheese, &c. and Salt-beef and Pork would there also be good Com- modities. They bring hither also Iron, and all Sorts of Iron-Tools ; Pewter- Vessels of all Sorts, as Dishes, Plates, Spoons, &c. Looking-glasses, Beads, and other Toys; and the Ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I said, Cotton-Cloath, which is afterwards sent to Angola. / The European Ships carry from hence Sugar, Tobaao, either in Roll or SnufF, never in Leaf, that I know of: These are the Staple Commodities. Besides which, here are Dye-woods, as Fustick,^ &c., with Woods for other Uses, as speckled Wood, Brazil, &c. They also carry home raw Hides, Tallow, Train-oil of Whales, &c. Here are also kept tame Monkeys, Parrots, Parrakites, &c which the Seamen carry home. The Sugar of this Country is much better than that which we bring home from our Plantations : For all the Sugar that is made here is clay*d, which makes it whiter and finer than our Muscovada, as we call our unrcfin'd Sugar. Our Planters seldom refine any with Clay, unless sometimes a little to send Home as Presents for their Friends in England. Their way of doing it is by talung I some of the whitest Clay and mixing it with Water, * Bois Jaune, or Dyer's Mulberry, a tall tree with yellow wood, fro© which a rather sober yellow dye is obtained. The tree bears a small fruiti much sought after by birds. It is common in most tropical countries. '* Speckled wood " may be the famous Brazilian rose-wood which has beeo exported in large quantities ever since the country was settled. ** Biaifl*' (Ccesaipifiia Braziliensis) is a sort of logwood used in dyeing. 382 m CLAYING OF SUGAR ^ JhI 'tis like Cream. With ihis they fill up the Pans of ah.^ Sug»r, that arc sunk 2 or 3 Inches below the Bnm by '^ the dnining of the Molosses out of it : First scraping off the thin hard Crust of the Sugar that lies at the Top, and would hinder the Water of the Clay from soaking through the Sugar of the Pan. The refining is made by this I PercoTatioo. For 10 or 12 Days Time that the clayish I Liquor lies soaking down the Pan, the white Water whitens I the Sugar as it passes thro* it ; and the gross Body of the I Clay it self grows hard on the Top, and may be taken J off at Pleasure; when scraping off with a Knife the very ■ upper-part of the Sugar, which will be a little sullied, that I which is underneath will be white almost to the Bottom : I And such as is called Brazil Sugar is thus whitened. When I I wu here ihis Sugar was sold for 50s. per too lb. And I the Bottoms of ihe Pots, which is vcnr" coarse Sugar, for I about 20s. per 100 lb. both Sorts being then scarce; for 1 here was not enough to lade the Ships, and therefore some I of them were to lye here till the next Season. ' The European Ships commonly arrive here in February or March, and they have generally quick Passages; finding at that Time of the Year brisk Gales to bring them to the ~~iae, little Trouble, then, in crossing it, and brisk E. N. E. J Vinds afterwards to bring them hither. They commonly I etum from hence about the latter End of May, or in 1 *Twas said when I was here that the Ships would 1 hence the 20th Day of May ; and therefore they were very busy, some in taking in their Goods, others in wning and making themselves ready. The Ships that J nme hither usually careen at their first coming; here I eing I Hulk belonging to the King for that Purpose. " ■* ' i Hulk is under the Charge of the Superintendent I : of, who has a certain Sum of Money for every Ship tat careens by her. He also provides Firing' and other Kcccsaries for that Purpose : And the Ships do commonly ■ of the Merchants here each 2 Cables to moor by all : Time they lye here, and so save their own Hempen ' Bnuhwoo'l and tbc like, which, IkIiik kindleiJ on ih« eipoMil bend* ■ IV Mp, bomt off the banvadc* and other Bccumutalioiu. tit CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Cables ; for these are made of a Sort of Hair/ that grows "^ on a certain Kind of Trees, hanging down from the Top of their Bodies, and is very like the black Coyre* in the East-Indies, if not the same. These Cables are strong and lasting : And so much for the European Ships. The Ships that use the Guinea-Trade are small Vessels in comparison of the former. They carry out from hence Rum, Sugar, the Cotton-cloaths of St. Jago, Beads, &c and bring in Return, Gold, Ivory, and Slaves ; making very good Returns. The small Craft that belong to this Town are chiefly imployed in carrying European Goods from Bahia, the Center of the Brasilian Trade, to the other Places on this . Coast; bringing back hither Sugar, Tobacco, &c. They are sailed chiefly with Negro-Slaves ; and about Christmas these are mostly imployed in Whale-killing; For about that Time of the Year a Sort of Whales, as they call them, are very thick on this Coast. They come in also into the Harbours and inland Lakes, where the Seamen go out and kill them. The Fat of them is boiled to Oil ; the Lean is eaten by the Slaves and poor People : And I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it, that the Flesh was very sweet and wholsome. These are said to be but small Whales ; yet here are so many,* and so easily killed, that they get a great deal of Money by it. Those that strike them buy their Licence for it of the King : And I was inform'd that he receives 3CX)00 Dollars per Annum for this Fishery. All the small Vessels that use this Coasting Traffick are built here ; and so are some Men of War also for the King's Service. There was one a building when I was here, a Ship of 40 or 50 Guns : And the Timber of this Country is very good and proper for this Purpose. I was told it was very strong, and more durable than any we have in Europe ; and they have enough of it. As for ^ The Piassava palm. * Coir. Piassava cables are supposed to be thrice the strength of those made of the true coir (cocoa-nut fibre) and less subject to dry-rot than cables of hemp, either Indian or Manila. ' This, like several other famous whale-fisheries, is now abandoned. 384 CARRIAGE IN HAMMOCKS T Ships thai use the European Trade, some of them Atf.I : 1 saw there were English built, taken from us by the '^' «ich, (luring the Ute War,' and sold by them to the rtuguczc. B>sidcs Merchants and others that trade by Sea from i Port, here are other pretty wealthy Men, and several tificcrs and Trades-men of most Sorts, who by Labour Industry maintain themselves very well ; especially 1 as can arrive at the Purchase of a Negro-Slave or . And indeed, excepting people of the lowest Degree all, here are scarce any but what keep Slaves in their scs. The richer Sort, besides the Slaves of both i whom they keep for servile Uses in their Houses, Men Slaves who wait on them aboard, for State; r running by their Horse-sides when they ride out, or carry them to and fro on their Shoulders in the Town m they make short Visits near Home. Every Gentle- 1 or Merchant is provided with Things necessary for I Sort of Carriage. The main Thing is a pretty large tton Hammock of the West-India Fashion, but mostly d blue, with large Fringes of the same, hanging down on 1 Side. This is carried on the Negro's Shoulders by the Ip of a Bambo about I2 or 14 Foot long, to which the nmock b hung ; and a Covering comes over the Pole, ^ng down on each Side like a Curtain : So that the on >o cirry'd cannot be seen unless he pleases ; but / cither lye down, having Pillows for his Head ; or may up by being a little supported with these Pillows, and letting both his Legs hang out over one Side of the nmock. When he hath a Mind to be seen he puts by I Curtain, and salutes every one of his Acquaintance he meets in the Streets ; for they take a Piece of ^^ in greeting one another from their Hammocks, and . U hold long Conferences thus in the Street : But then 'r a Slaves who carry the Hammock have each a strong il-madc Staff, with a fine Iron Fork at the upper End, I a fharp Iron below, like the Rest for a Musket, which ' The war of 1689- 1697. 385 2 « CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. they stick fast in the Ground, and let the Pole or Bambo '^ of the Hammock rest upon them, till their Master's Business or the Complement is over. There is scarce a Man of any Fashion, especially a Woman, will pass the Streets but so carried in a Hammock. The Chief Mechanick Traders here, are Smiths, Hatters, Shoemakers, Tanners, Sawyers, Carpenters, Coopers, &c. Here are also Taylors, Butchers, &c. which last kill the Bullocks very dexterously, sticking them at one Blow with a sharp-pointed Knife in the Nape of the Neck, having first drawn them close to ' a Rail ; but they dress them very slovenly. It being Lent when I came luther, there was no buying any Flesh till Easter-Eve, when a great Number of Bullocks were kill'd at once in the Slaughter-houses within the Town, Men, Women and Children flocking thither with great Joy to buy, and a Multitude of Dogs, almost starved, following them ; for whom the Meat seemM fittest, it was so lean. All these Trades- men buy Negroes, and train them up to their several Employments, which is a great Help to them ; and they having so frequent Trade to Angola, and other Parts of Guinea, they have a constant Supply of Blacks both for their Plantations and Town. These Slaves arc very useful in this Place for Carriage, as Porters ; for as here is a great Trade by Sea, and the Landing-place is at the Foot of a Hill, too steep for drawing with Carts, so there is great need of Slaves to carry Goods up into the Town, especially for the inferiour Sort : But the Merchants have also the Convenience of a great Crane that goes with Ropes or PuUies, one End of which goes up while the other goes down. The House in which this Crane is, stands on the Brow of the Hill towards the Sea, hanging over the Preci- pice ; and there are Planks set shelving against the Bank from thence to the Bottom, against which the Goods lean or slide as they are hoisted up or let down. The Negro- Slaves in this Town are so numerous, that they make up the greatest Part or Bulk of the Inhabitants : Every House, as I said, having some, both Men and Women, of them. Many of the Portugueze, who are Batchelors, keep of these black Women for Misses, tho* they know the Danger they 386 THE COUNTRY ABOUT BAHIA in of being poyson'd by them, if ever they give them ' ah. , Occasion (^Jealousy. A Gentleman of ray Acquain- '^9* who had been familiar with his Cook-maid, lay some such Apprehensions from her when I was These Slaves also of either Sex will easily be J ^agcd to do any Sort of Mischief; even to Murder, if I are hired to do it, especially in the Night ; for which 1 on, I kept my Men on board as much as 1 could ; for of the French King's Ships being here, had several :n murther'd by them in the Night, as I was credibly arm'd. Having given this Account of the Town of Bahia, I Jl next say somewhat of the Country. There is a Sati- ter Like runs 40 Leagues, as I was totd, up the untry, N. W. from the Sea, leaving the Town and Itch Fori on the Starboard Side. The Country all ind about is for the most part a pretty flat even und, not high, nor yet very low: It is well water'd kh Rivera, Brooks and Springs; neither wants it for od Harbours, navigable Creeks, and good Bays for ip> to ride in. The Soil in general is go^^Kl, naturally 'ucing very large Trees of divers Sorts, and fit for any Th. he Savannahs also are loaden with Grass, Herbs, k1 many Sons of smaller Vegetables ; and being culli- ited. produce any Thing that ts proper for those hot buntries, as Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Indico, Tobacco, Maiz, it-Trees of several Kinds, and eatable Roots of all Is. Of the several Kinds of Trees that arc here, I shall ive an Account of some, as I had it partly from an 'labitant nf Bahia, and partly from my Knowledge of m otherwise, viz. Sapiera,' Verniiatico,* Comesscric," itlcba,* Serrie,* as they were pronounc'd to me, three of Mangrove, speckled Wood, Fustick, Cotton-Trees 3 SoTtt, &c. together with Fruit-Trccs of diveis Sorts It grow wild, beside such as arc planted. Of Timber-Trees, the Sapiera is said to be large and I Sapopm. ' Vinhxico de Bahia : PJii/Aymtm'aim rttiailatum. ' CnitieiMhe, Ayitfmdrwi Sfi., a red wood lued Id ihipbuiMiBK- ' Cnpiabaf * Seie? Couratari mfmtetns. 387 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. tall ; it is very good Timber, and is made use of in build- 1699 ing of Houses ; so is the Vermiatico, a tall streight-bodicd Tree, of which they make Plank 2 Foot broad ; and they also make Canoa's with it. Comesserie and Guitteba are chiefly used in building Ships ; these are as much esteem'd here as Oaks are in England, and they say either Sort is harder and more durable than Oak. The Serrie is a Sort : of Tree much like Elm, very durable in Water. Here are also all the three Sorts of Mangrove Trees, viz. the Red, the White, and the Black, which I have described [Vol. I. p. 84]. The Bark of the Red Mangrove, is here us*d for tanning of Leather, and they have great Tan-pits for it. The black Mangrove grows larger here than in the West- Indies, and of it they make good Plank. The white Mangrove is larger and tougher than in the West-Indies ; of these they make Masts and Yards for Barks. There grow here wild or bastard Coco-Nut Trees, neither so large nor so tall as the common ones in the East j or West-Indies. They bear Nuts as the others, but not a . quarter so big as the right Coco-Nuts. The Shell is full of Kernel, without any hollow Place or Water in it ; and the Kernel is sweet and wholsome, but very hard both for the Teeth and for Digestion. These Nuts are in much Esteem for making Beads for Pater noster's, Boles of Tobacco-Pipes, and other Toys: and every small Shop here has a great many of them to sell. At the Top of these Bastard Coco-Trees, among the Branches, there grows a Sort of long black Thread like Horse-hair, but much longer, which by the Portugueze is called Tresabo.^ Of this they make Cables which are very serviceable, strong and lasting ; for they will not rot as Cables made of Hemp, tho' they lye exposed both to Wet and Heat. These are the Cables which I said they keep in their Harbours here, to let to hire to European Ships, and resemble the Coyre-Cables. Here are 3 Sorts of Cotton-Trees that bear Silk-Cotton. One Sort is such as I have formerly described [ Vol. I. p. ^ Pia9aba. 388 B' COTTON-TREE OF BRAZIL ^^86] by the Name of the Cotton-tree. The other 2 Sorts ' I never saw any where but here. The Trees of these latter ' Sorts arc but small in Comparison of the former, which are — jeckoa'd the biggest in all the West-India Woods; yet arc MJWwcver of a good Bigness and Heighth. One of these Hki Sorts is not so full of Branches as the other of them ; 'writhcr do they produce their Fruit the same Time of the Year : For one Sort had its Fruit just ripe, and was shedding its Leaves while the other Sort was yet green, and its Fruit small and growing, having but newly done bloBOniing ; the Tree being as full of young Fruit as an Applc-Trce ordinarily in England. These last yield very large Pods, about 6 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. It IS ripe in September and October ; then the Pod opens, and the Cotton bursts out in a great Lump as big as a Man's Head. They gather these Pods before they open ; otherwtys it would fly all away. It opens as well after 'tis gathered ; and then they take out the Cotton, and preserve tto fill Pillows and Bolsters, for which use 'lis very much ecmcd : But 'tis fit for nothing else.' Iwing so short that cannot be spun. 'Tis of a tawncy Colour ; and the ;ds are black, very round, and as big as a white Pea. l"hc other Sort is ripe in March or April. The Fruit or Pod is like a large Apple, and very round. The out-side Shell \i as thick as the Top of one's Finger. Within this therr is a very thin whitish Bag or Skin which incloseth the Cotton. When the Cotton-Apple is ripe, the outer thick green Shell splits it self into 5 equal Parts from Stcmb to Tail, and drops off, leaving the Cotton hanging upon the Stcmb, only pent up in its fine Bag. A Day or two afterwards the Cotton swells by the Heat of the Sun, breaks the Bag and bursts out, as big as a Man's Head : And then as the Wind blows 'tis by Degrees driven away, a little at a Time, out of the Bag that still hangs upon the Stcmb, and is scattered about ihc Fields; the Bag soon following the Cotton, and the Stcmb the Bag. Here is * Tbc mimjntM >iid the Munminu. I'hc ton "tucb u 1 have fonncrly d«Mmbcd ' n AowVoj- fiemtaibirum. a iaH, (horny tne with digitnied leaves. * li is MNDClimet ti»ed in live niali<R|t of fdi. 389 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. also a little of the right West-India Cotton Shrub : but '^ none of the Cotton is exported, nor do they make much Cloth of it. This Country produces great Variety of fine Fruits, as very good Oranges of 3 or 4 Sorts ; (especially one Sort of China Oranges;) Limes in Abundance, Pomegranates, Pomecitrons, Plantains, Bonano's, right Coco-Nuts, Guava's, Coco-plumbs (called here Munshcroo*s)» Wild-grapes, such as I have described [Vol. 11. Part 2, p. 151] beside such Grapes as grow in Europe. Here are also Hc^-plumbs, Custard- Apples, Sour-sops,^ Cashews,* Papah*s* (called here Mamoons) Jennipah*s* (called here Jenni-Pappah's) Manchineel-Apples and Mango's. Mango's are yet but rare here : I saw none of them but in the Jesuit's Garden, f which has a great many fine Fruits, and some Cinnamon- L Trees. These, both of them, were first brought from the [__ East-Indies, and they thrive here very well : So do Pumple- musses, brought also from thence ; and both China and Sevil Oranges are here very plentiful as well as good. The Sour-sop (as we call it) is a large Fruit as big as a Man's Head, of a long or oval Shape, and of a green Colour ; but one Side is yellowish when ripe. The out- side Rind or Coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with small sharp Knobs ; the Inside is full of spongy Pulp, within which also are many black Seeds or Kernels^ in Shape and Bigness like a Pumpkin-seed. The Pulp is very juicy, of a pleasant Taste, and wholesome. You suck the Juice out of the Pulp, and so spit it out. The Tree or Shrub that bears this Fruit grows about 10 or 12 Foot high, with a small short Body ; the Branches growing pretty strait up; for I did never see any of them spread abroad. The Twigs are slender and tough ; and so is the Stcmb of the Fruit. This Fruit grows also both in the East and West-Indies. The Cashew is a Fruit as big as a Pippin, pretty long, and bigger near the Stemb than at the other End, growing ' Anona maxima, ' Acaju, or acajou {Anacardium occidentak)* * Papahs : Fafia major, ^ Genipapdhs : Genipa Americana or Surinam marmalade box. 390 THE JENNIPAH AND ARISAH FRUIT ipcnng. The Rind is smooth and thin, of a red and ah. 1 cllow Colour. The Seed of this Fruit grows at the End '*~* f it ; 'tis of an Olive Colour shaped like a Bean, and bout the same Bigness, but not altogether so flat. The 'rcc b as big as an Applc-Tree, with Branches not thick, et spreading off. The Boughs are gross, the Leaves broad nd round, and in Substance pretty thick. This Fruit is oft and spongy when ripe, and so full of Juice that in iting it the Juice will run nut on both Sides of one's 4outh. It is very pleasant, and gratefully rough on the Tiwigue; and is accounted a very wholesome Fruit. This TOWS both in the East and West-Indies, where I have seen nd eaten of it. The Jennipah or Jcnnipapah is a Sort of Fruit of the ' 'alabosh or Gourd-kind. It is about the Bigness of a 3uck-^g, and somewhat of an Oval Shape ; and is of a ty Colour. The Shell is not altogether so thick nor hard a Calabash ; 'Tis full of whitish Pulp mixt with small Seeds: and both Pulp and Seeds must be taken into Mouth, where sucking out the Pulp, you spit out the Ls. It is of a sharp and pleasing Taste, and is very iccnt. The Tree that bears it is much like an Ash, right bodied, and of a good Height ; clean from Limbs near ihe Top, where there Branches forth a small Head. le Rind is of a pale grey, and so is the Fruit. We us'd this Tree to make Helves or Handles for Axes (for tich it is very proper) in the Bay of Campcaehy ; where ivc seen of them, and no where else but here. Benda these, here are many Sorts of Fruits which 1 c not met with any where but here ; as Arisah's, inicasah's, Petango's, &c. Arisah's' arc an excellent " , not much bigger than a large Cherry; shaped a Catherine- Pear, being small at the Stemb, and elHng bigger towards the End. I'hey are of a greenish itour. and have small Seeds as big as Mustard Seeds; w arc somewhat lart, yet pleasant, and very wholsomc, d may be eaten by sick People. ' The antfk : fsi^um lUtpraie ind P. mavtelnu. ' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES A3C. Mericasah's,^ arc an excellent Fruit, of which there are *^ 2 Sorts ; one growing on a »nall Tree or Shrub, which is counted the best ; the other growing on a Kind of Shrub like a Vine, which they plant about Arbours to make a Shade, having many broad Leaves. The Fruit is as big as a small Orange, round and green. When they are ripe they are soft and fit to eat ; full of white Pulp mixt thick with little black Seeds, and there is no separating one from the other, till they arc in your Mouth ; when you suck in the white Pulp and spit out the Stones. They are tart, pleasant, and very wholesome. Petango's,* arc a small red Fruit, that grow also on small Trees, and are as big as Cherries, but not so globular, having one flat Side, and also 5 or 6 small protuberant Ridges. *Tis a very pleasant tart Fruit, and has a pretty large flattish Stone in the Middle. Petumbo's,' are a yellow Fruit (growing on a Shrub like a Vine) bigger than Cherries, with a pretty large Stone : These are sweet, but rough in the Mouth. Mungaroo's,^ are a Fruit as big as Cherries, red on one Side and white on the other Sde : They are said to be full of small Seeds, which are commonly swallowed in eating them. Muckishaw*s,' are said to be a Fruit as big as Crab- Apples, growing on large Trees. They have also small Seeds in the Middle, and are well tasted. Ingwa's,* are a Fruit like the Locust-Fruit, 4 Inches long, and one broad. They grow on high Trees. Otee," is a Fruit as big as a large Coco-Nut. It hath a Husk on the outside, and a large Stone within, and is accounted a very fine Fruit. Musteran-de-ova*s,® are a round Fruit as big as large Hazel-Nuts, covered with thin brittle Shells of a blackish Colour : They have a small Stone in the middle, inclosed within a black pulpy Substance, which is of a pleasant ' Protium a/h'ssima. * Pitanga : Myrda rubella. ' Pittombera : Sapindus esculentus. * Philodendron arboreum. * Macacao ? • Inga-louro. ^ 0'\\\ {Couvfpt'a advn), • iMCumaprocerat 392 PALM-BERRY— PHYSICK-NUTS, ETC. ^ Tistc. The outside Shell is chevfcd with the Fniii, and Air.1 spit out with the Stone, when the Pulp is suck'd from '^ them. The Tree that bears this Fruit is tall, large, and very harJ Wood. I have not seen any of these five last named Fruits, but had them thus described to me by an 3 Imh Inhabitant of Bahta ; tho' as to this last, I am apt to I beltcvc, I may have both seen and eaten of them in Achin ■ in Sumatra. I Palm-berries' (called here Dendccs) grow plentifully \ I about Bahia; the largest are as big as Wall-nuts; they I grow in Bunches on the top of the Body of the Tree, I among the Roots of the Branches or Leaves, as all Fruits I of the Palm-kind do. These arc the same kind of Berries i ■ or Nuts as those they make the Palm-Oyl with on the I Coast of Guinea, where they abound : And I was told that I tbcy make Oyt with them here also. They sometimes I roast and eat them; but when I had one roasted to prove I it, 1 did not like it. I Pbysick-Nuts,' as our Seamen call them, are called ■ 'crc Pmcon; and Agnus Castus is called here Carrepat : I hex both grow here : So do Mcndibees, a Fruit like I'hysick-Nuts. They scorch them in a Pan over the Fire _ before they eat them. M Here arc also great plenty of Cabbage-Trees,' and I other Fruits, which I did not get information about, and ' which I had not the Opportunity of seeing ; because this was not the Season, it being our Spring, and consequently their Autumn, when their best Fruits were gone, tho' some . were left. However I saw abundance of wild Berries in ■ the Woodland Fields, but 1 could not learn their Names I or Nature. I They have withal good plenty of ground Fruit, as I Callavanccs, Pme-Apples, Punikins, Water-Mclons, Musk- I Melons, Cucumbers, and Roots ; as Yams, Potato's, I Cassava's, &c. Garden-Herbs also good store; as Cab- I lagcs. Turnips, Onions, Leeks, and aliundance of other I Saftarding, and for the Pot. Drugs of several sorts, viz. M * Cmfmt diitiikmi. ' From the catlor-oU plaDti. H ■ EuttTpe tdulU. ■ 393 m CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Sassafras,^ Snake-Root,* &c. Beside the Woods I mcn- '^ tioned for Dying, and other Uses, as Fustick, Speckled- wood, &c. I brought home with me from hence a good Number of Plants, dried between the Leaves of Books ; of some of the choicest of which, that are not spoifd, I may give a Specimen at the End of the Book. Here are said to be great plenty and variety of Wild- Fowl, viz. Yemma*s, Maccaw's (which are called here Jackoo*s, and a larger sort of Parrots, and scarcer) Parrots, Parakites, Flamingo's, Carrion-Crows, Chattering Crows, Cockrecoes, Bill-Birds finely painted, Corresoes, Doves, Pidgeons, Jenetees, Clocking-Hens, Crab-Catchers, Galdens, Currecoo's, Muscovy Ducks, common Ducks, Widgeons, Teal, Curlews, Men of War Birds, Booby's, Noddy's, Pelicans, &c. The Yemma is bigger than a Swan, grey-feathered, with a long thick sharp-pointed Bill. The Carrion-Crow and Chattering- Crows, are called here Mackeraw's, and are like those I described in the West-Indies, [Vol. II. Part II. p. i68.] The Bill of the Chattering-Crow is black, and the Upper-Bill is round, bending downwards like a Hawks-Bill, rising up in t Ridge almost Semi-circular, and very sharp, both at the Ridge or Convexity, and at the Point or Extremity : The Lower-Bill is flat and shuts even with it. I was told by a Portuguese here, that their Negro- Wenches make Love- Potions with these Birds. And the Portuguese care not to let them have any of these Birds, to keep them from that Superstition : As I found one Afternoon when I was in the Fields with a Padre and another, who shot two of them, and hid them, as they said, for that Reason. They are not good Food, but their Bills are reckoned a good Antidote against Poison. ^ The " useful Sassafras/' or sassafras laurel, a handsome aromatic tree yielding a valuable drug, and a scented wood, much used by AmericaD furniture makers. * Poly gala Senega y a drug much used at one time in gargles and emetics. 394 IBILI^BIRD—CURRESO— CLOCKING-HENS The Bill-Birds' by called " their monstrous Bills, which are as big as their fiodies. I ' saw none of these Birds here, but saw several of the Breasts Bea'd off and dried, for the Beauty of them ; the Feathers were curiously colour'd with Red, Yellow, and Orange- colour. fcThe Currcso's (called here Mackeraw's') are such as in the Bay of Campeachy [Vol. II. Part 2, p. 167]. Turtle-Doves arc in great plenty here ; and two sorts Wild Pidgeons ; the one sort Blacltish, the other a light vjrcy : The Blackish or dark Grey are the Bigger, being as large as our Wood-Quests, or Wood-Pidgeons in England. Boch sorts are very good Meat ; and arc in such plenty firom M»y till September, that a Man may shoot 8 or 10 Dozen in several Shots at one standing, in a close misty Morning, when they come to feed on Berries that grow in the Woods. The Jcnetee is a Bird as Ing as a Lark, with blackish Feathers, and yellow Legs and Feet. 'Tis accounted very wholesome Food. Clocking- Hens, are much like the Crab-catchers, which I have described [Vol. II. Part 2, p. 170] but the Legs ire not altogether so long. They keep always in swampy wet Places, tho* their Claws arc like Land-Kowls Claws. They nuke a Noise or Cluck like our Brood-Hens, or Dunghil-Hens, when they have Chickens, and for that Reason they are called by the English, Clocking-Hens. ■There are many of them in the Bay of Campeachy (tho' I lilted to speak of them then:) and elsewhere in the KTest-Indics. There are both here and there four sorts these long-lcgg'd Fowls, near a-kin to each other, as so .ny Sub-Species of the same Kind ; viz. Crab-catchers, Docking-Hens, Galdens (which three are in shape and ""Alour like Herons in England, but less ; the Galden, the M of the three, the Crab-catcher the smallest;) and a a deep * KAt* Amfritatui, at kriel toucan, rid twcuii with puiirif-btack bai:k and win^s. ■ Maracc* U the Bntilian name for the wild duck. The curauow {Mitti w) is kaown u ilw irioium. 395 \ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. fourth sort which are Black, but shaped like the other, '^ having long Legs and short Tails ; these are about the bigness of Crab-catchers, and feed as they do. Currecoos, are Water Fowls, as big as pretty large Chickens, of a bluish Colour, with short Legs and Tail; they feed also in swampy Ground, and are very good Meat. I have not seen of them elsewhere. The Wild-Ducks here are said to be of two sorts, the Muscovy, and the common-Ducks. In the wet Sason here are abundance of them, but in the dry Time but few. Wigeon and Teal also are said to be in great plenty here m the wet Season. To the Southward of Bahia there are also Ostridgcs m great plenty, tho' 'tis said, they are not so large as those of Africa : They are found chiefly in the Southern Parts of Brazil, especially among the large Savannahs near the River of Plate ; and from thence further South towards the Streights of Magellan. As for Tame Fowl at Bahia, the chief beside their Ducks, are Dunghil-Fowls, of which they have two sorts; one sort much of the size of our Cocks and Hens ; the other very large : And the Feathers of these last are a long time coming forth ; so that you see them very naked when half grown ; but when they are full grown and well feathered, they appear very large Fowls, as indeed they are ; neither do they want for Price ; for they are sold at Bahia for half a Crown or three Shillings apiece, just as they are brought first to Market out of the Country, when they are so lean as to be scarce fit to eat. The Land Animals here are Horses, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Hogs, Leopards, Tygers, Foxes, Monkeys, Pecary (a sort of wild Hogs, called here Pica) Armadillo, Alligators, Guano's (called Quittee) Lizards, Serpents, Toads, Frogs, and a sort of amphibious Creatures called by the Portugueze Cachord's de agua^ in English Watcr- Dogs. The Leopards and Tygers of this Country are said to be large and very fierce : But here on the Coast they arc either destroyed, or driven back towards the Heart of the 396 ( SERPENTS— AM PH I SB^N A Atry ; inii therefore are seldom found but in the a». Borders and Out-plan taiions, where ihey oftentimes do '^ Mischief. Here are three or four sorts of Monkeys, of PTcnt Sizes and Colours, One sort is very large ; and Jicr sort is very small : These last are ugly in Shape Feature, and have a strong Scent of Musk- Here are several sorts of Serpents, many of them vastly |rcat, atKt most of them very venomous : As the Raitle- Duke for one: And for Venom, a small Green Snake' is bid enough, no bigger than the Stemb of a Tobacco-pipe, ■d about 1 8 Inches long, very common here. B They have here also the Amphisbsna,' or Two-headed KUec, of a grey Colour, mixed with blackish Stripes, irhose Biie is reckon'd to be incurable. 'Tts said to be blind, tho' it has two small Specks in each Head like Eyes: But whether it sees or not I cannot tell. They say it lives like a Mole, mostly under Ground ; and that when it u found above Ground it is easily kill'd, because it Biovcs but slowly : Neither is its Sight (if it hath any) so Mod as to discern any one that comes near to kill it: as few of these Creatures fly at a Man, or hurt him but when H comes in their way. 'Tis about 14. Inches long, and ibout the bigness of the inner Joint of a Man's middle ?iii0cr; being of one and the same bigness from one End Ki tAc other, with a Head at each End, (as they said : for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut short at one End) both alike in shape and bigness ; and 'tis said to move S cither Head foremost, indifferently ; whence 'tis called he Portugucze, Cobra de dos Cabesai, the Snake with J Heads. ^T he small black Snake is a very venomous Creature. I here is also a grey Snake, with red' and brown Spots iver its back. ' Tis as big as a Man's Arm, and about t long, and is said to be venomous. I saw one of these. ^ C «t r0 vtrdiu. ilutboiu, a ton of iloir^orm, with a blunl tail The creaiure k arrigitte* tiackwardt, which accounts for the dory of the two Henunda givei a fearvime cut of the iwo-hciuled mnkc, in which *' "" H between the eyes, rutving outward*. 397 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Here are two sorts of very large Snakes or Serpents: '^ One of *em a Land-snake,^ the other a Water-snake. The Land-snake is of a grey Colour, and about 1 8 or 20 Foot long : Not very venomous, but ravenous. I was promised the sight of one of their Skins, but wanted Opportunity. The Water- snake ^ is said to be near 30 Foot long. These live wholly in the Water, either in large Rivers, or great Lakes, and prey upon any Creature that comes within their Reach, be it Man or Beast. They draw their Prey to them with their Tails : for when they see any thing on the Banks of the River or Lake where they lurk, they swing about their Tails 10 or 12 Foot over the Bank ; and what- ever stands within their Sweep is snatchM with great Violence into the River, and drowned by them. Nay 'tis reported very credibly that if they see only a shade of any Animal at all on the Water, they will flourish their TjuIs to bring in the Man or Beast whose Shade they see, and arc oftentimes too successful in it. Wherefore Men that have Business near any Place where these Water-Monsters arc suspected to lurk, are always provided with a Gun, whidi they often fire, and that scares them away, or keeps them quiet. They are said to have great Heads, and strong Teeth about 6 Inches long. I was told by an Irish Man who lived here, that his Wife*s Father was very near being taken by one of them about this Time of my first Arrival here, when his Father was with him up in the Country: For the Beast flourished his Tail for him, but came not nigh enough by a Yard or two; however it scared him sufficiently. The amphibious Creatures here which I said are ailed by the Portugueze CachoriCs de Agua^ or Water-Dogs, arc said to be as big as small MastifFs, and are all hairy and shaggy from Head to Tail. They have 4 short Legs, a pretty long Head and short Tail ; and are of a bladcish Colour. They live in fresh Water-ponds, and oftentimes come ashore and Sun themselves ; but retire to the Water ^ The boa-constrictor. ' The anaconda {Eunectes murinus). It sometimes attains to a length of 40 feet. 398 r SHELI^FISH— TURTLE iCssaulted. They are eaten, and said to be good Food. ah. rcnl of thc9c Creatures which 1 have now spoken of '^ live not seen, but inform'J my self about ihcm while I a here at Bahia, from sober and sensible Persons among t Inhabitants, among whom I met with some that could cak English. In the Sea upon this Coast there is great Store and ivcrsity of Fish, viz. Jew-fish, for which there is a great kci at Bahia in Lent : Tarpom's, Mullets, Groopers, iks. Gar-fish (called here Goolions), Gomsses, Barrama's, [uinda's, Cavallie's, Cuchora's (or Dog-fish), Conger-Eels, ings (as I was told), the Serrew, the Olio de Boy (1 :e and spell them just as they were named to me), lalcs, &c. Here is also Shell-fish (tho' in less Plenty about Bahia on other Paris of the Coast), viz. Lobsters, Craw-fish, imps, Crabs, Oysters of the common Sort, Conchs, liks. Cockles, Muscles, Pcrriwinkles, &c. Here are c Sorts of Sca-Turtle, viz. Hawksbill, Loggerhead, Green; But none of them are in any esteem, neither lianii nor Portugiicze loving them : Nay they have a t Antipathy against them, and would much rather cat Porpoise, tho' our KngUsh count the green Turtle very tnordiiury Food, The Reason that is commonly given ihc West-Indies for the Spaniards not caring to eat of ttn, i% the Fear they have lest, being usually foul-bodied, J many of them pox'd (lying, as they do, so promiscu- lly with thctr Ncgrines and other Shc-SIavcs) they should ak out loathsomely like Le}>:rs; which this Sort of Food, I said, does much enclinc Men to do, searching the Body, II driving out any such gross Humours : For which Cause toy of our English Valetudinarians have gone from V (tho' there they have also Turtle) to the I. at the Laying-time, to live wholly upon Turtle then abound there; purposely to have their Bodies r'd by this Food, and their Distempers driven out ; hive been said to have found many of them good EM in it. But this by the way. The Hawks-bill- BTtlc on this Coast of Brazil is most sought after of an 399 ill- M CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. for its Shell ; which by Report of those I have conversed 1699 with at Bahia, is the clearest and best clouded Tortoise- shell in the World. I had some of it shewn me, wiuch was indeed as good as I ever saw. They get a pretty deal of it in some Parts on this Coast ; but 'tis very dear. Beside this Port of Bahia de todos los Santos, there are 2 more principal Ports on Brazil, where European Ships Trade, viz. Pernambuc and Ria Janeira ; and I was told that there go as many Ships to each of these Places as to Bahia, and 2 Men of War to each Place for thdr Convoys. Of the other Ports in this Country none is of greater Note than that of St. Paul's,^ where they gather much Gold ; but the Inhabitants are said to be a Sort of Banditti, or loose People that live under no Government: But their Gold brings them all Sorts of Commodities tbt they need, as Clothes, Arms, Ammunition, &c. The Town is said to be large and strong. ^ Santos. 400 rtd &. tktr^in. dtfftrsjrvm .A CotHOn^^fifJAy -?*<Jp- 3itt A Zaj^ of -thu Strdan ^a. Srtf/i-t 'B.id. CHAP. Ill I A^t Stay and Buanas at Bahla : Of the W'tndi and Seasant ef ikt Ytar there. His Dtparlure for N. Halliinil. C. Salvadore. The IVinds sn the Braiilian Coatt ; and Abrohio Shaal ; Fiih, and Birdi : The Shear-waltr Bird, and Caaking of Sharis, Ex- emivf Sumber tf Birdi ahut a dead ff^haJe ; of the Pintiida-hird, and the Petrel, i^e. Of a Bird that ihewi the C. of G. Hope la tf mar : Of the Sea-reehmngi, and f^ariaticns : And a Table of all the Fariatitm tlnerv'd in this f^eyoge. Occurrences near the Cap* ; and the v/.'i pasting by it. Of the ff^esterly IVindt htyand it ; A Stvrm, a^ its Presages. The A.'i Course to N. Holland ; amd Signs af appraaehing it. Another Abrohlo Shole and Storm, mad tht A.'t Arrival an part of N. Holland. That part descried ; a»d Sharfs Bay, where he first anchan. Of the Land there, ytgetahitt. Birds, We. A partsailar Sort of Guano ; fish, and ktmatifiil Shelh ; Turtle, large Sheri, and IVater-Serpents. The A.'t removing to antther part of N. Holland : Dolphins, If hales, tfW lasre Sea»Serptnli ; and of a Patsage or Sireight suspected here : Of tht yegelahlety Birds, and Fish. He anchors on a third Part ^S. Holland, and digs fVells, hut iraciish. Of the Inhabitants thfTf, tht great Tides, the Vegetables and Animals, He, FY Stay here at Bahia was about a Month ; during which Time the Vice-Roy of Goa came hither ''"^ from thence in a great Ship, said to he richly laden with all Sorts of India Goods; but she , not break Bulk here, being bound Home for Lisbon ; by the Vicc-Koy intended to refresh his Men (of whom : hftd lost many, and most of the rest were very sickly, having been 4 Months in their Voyage hither) and so to take in Water, and depart for Europe, in Company with the other Portugueze Ships thither hound ; who had Orders 'o be ready to sail by the twentieth of May. He dcsir'd ro i^ II. 401 2 c CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. me to carry a Letter for him, directed to his Successor the 1699 new Vice-Roy of Goa ; which I did, sending it thither after- wards by Captain Hammond, whom I found near the Cape of Good Hope. The refreshing my Men, and taking in Water, was the main also of my Business here ; beside the having the better Opportunity to compose the Disorders among my Crew ; Which, as I have before related, were grown to so great a Heighth, that they could not without great Difficulty be appeased; However, finding Oppor- tunity, during my Stay in this Place, to allay in some Measure the Ferment that had been raised among my Men, I now set my self to provide for the carrying on of my Voyage with more Heart than before, and put all Hands to work, in order to it, as fast as the Backwardness of my Men would permit ; who shewed continually their Unwillingness to proceed farther. Besides, their Heads were generally filfd with strange Notions of Southerly Winds that were now setting in (and there had been already some Flurries of them) which, as they surmis'd, would hinder any farther Attempts of going on to the Southward, so long as they should last. The Winds begin to shift here in April and September, and the Seasons of the Year (the Dry and the Wet) alter :' with them. In April the Southerly Winds make their \ Entrance on this Coast, bringing in the wet Season, with violent Tornado's, Thunder and Lightning, and much Rain. In September the other Coasting Trade, at East North- East comes in, and cleans the Sky, bringing fair Weather. This, as to the Change of Wind, is what I have observ'd, Vol. II. Part 3. p. 244, but as to the Change of Weather accompanying it so exactly here at Bahia, this is a par- ticular Exception to what I have experienc'd in all other Places of South Latitudes that I have been in between the Tropicks, or those I have heard of; for there the dry Season sets in, in April, and the Wet about October or November, sooner or later (as I have said that they are, in South Latitudes, the Reverse of the Seasons, or Weather, in the same Months in N. Latitudes, Vol. II. Part 3* p. 298) whereas on this Coast of Brazil, the wet Season 402 OF THE WINDS AND SEASONS Bes in in April, at the same Time that it doth in N. Studcs, and the dry (as I have said here) in September ; ' Kiins here not lasting so far in the Year as in other Ce&; For in September the Weather is usually so fair, t in the latter part of that Month they begin to cut ir Sugar-Cancs here, as I was told ; for I enquired par- llarty about the Seasons: Though this, as to the Season cutting of Canes, which I was now assur'd to be in tember, agrees not very well with what I was formerly i [Vol. II. Part 3. p. 299] that in Brazil they cut the les in July. And so, as to what is said a little lower the same Page, that in managing their Canes they are ; con6n'd to the Seasons, this ought to have been ex- as'd only of planting them ; for they never cut them ; in the dry Season. But to return to the Southerly Winds, which came in I expeacd they would) while I was here : These daunted Ship's Company very much, tho' I had told them they IC to look for them : But they being ignorant as to It I told them farther, that these were only Coasting- nds, sweeping the Shore to about 40 or 50 Leagues in idth from it, and imagining that they had blown so all Sea over, between America and Africa ; and being irm'd in this their Opinion by the Portuguezc Pilots the European Ships, with whom several of my Officers versed much, and who were themselves as ignorant that Ic were only Coasting Trade-Winds (themselves going Vy before them, in their Return homewards, till they W the I-ine. and so having no Kxperience of the Breadth them) being thus possess'd with a Conceit that we could tail from hence till September; this made them still more remiss in their Duties, and very listless to the ^g Things in a Readiness for our Departure. How- ■ J was the more diligent my self to have the Ship ibb'd, and to send my Water-Casks ashore to get them un'd.' my Beer being now out. I went also to the lOur to get my Water fill'd ; for here being hut one Scmped, Hn«cd, .ind biitncd. 10 llul ihcy ihniild nol iinpart a Ivmni; ID tlK «Wcr mb*a|oenilf >tarc<l in ih«in. 403 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES • AN. Watering-place (and the Water running low, now at the '^ End of the dry Season) it was always so crouded with the European Ships Boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my Men could seldom come nigh it, till the Govemour f" very kindly sent an Officer to clear the Water-place for my Men, and to stay there till my Water-Casks were all full, whom I satisfied for his Pains. Here I also got aboard 9 or lo Ton of Ballast, and made my Boatswain fit the Rigging that was amiss : And I enquired also of my par- ticular Officers whose Business it was, whether they wanted any Stores, especially Pitch and Tar ; for that here I would supply my self before I proceeded any farther; but they said they had enough, tho' it did not afterwards prove so. I commonly went ashore every Day, either upon Business, or to recreate my self in the Fields, which were very pleasant, and the more for a Shower of Rain now and then, that ushers in the wet Season. Several Sorts of good Fruits were also still remaining, especially Oranges, which were in such Plenty, that I and all my Company stock'd our selves for our Voyage with them, and they did us a great Kindness ; and we took in also a good Quantity of Rum and Sugar : But for Fowls they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had stock'd my self at St. Jago. But by the little Care my officers took for fresh Provisions, one might conclude, they did not think of going much farther. Besides, I had like to have been imbroiled with the Clergy here (of the Inquisition, as I suppose) and so my Voyage might have been hindred. What was said to them of me, by some of my Company that went ashore, 1 know not ; but I was assured by a Merchant there, that if they got me into their Clutches (and it seems, when I was last ashore they had narrowly watched me) the Governor himself could not release me. Besides I might either be murther'd in the Streets, as he sent me Word, or poisoned, if I came ashore any more; and therefore he advised me to stay aboard. Indeed I had now no further Business ashore but to take leave of the Governor, and therefore took his Advice. r Our Stay here was till the 23d of April. I would have ' 404 AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM BAHIA | gone before if I could sooner have fitted my self; but was ahJ now earnest to be gone, because this Harbour lies open to "*'^ the S. and S. S. W. which arc raging Winds here, and now j was the Season for them. We had 2 or 3 Touches of 1 them; and one pretty severe, and the Ships ride there so ' near each other, that if a Cable should fail, or an Anchor start, you are instantly aboard of one Ship or other: And 1 1 was more afraid of being disabled here in Harbour by ]| thc5c blustring Winds, than discouraged by them, as ray ( I People were, from prosecuting the Voyage ; for at present ' I I even wish'd for a brisk Southerly Wind as soon as I 'J should be once well out of the Harbour, to set me the V fooncr into the true General Trade-Wind. j The Tide of Flood being spent, and having a fine Land-Brccze on the J^d, in the Morning, I went away from the Anchoring place before 'twas light ; and then lay by till Day-light that we might see the better how to out of the Harbour. I had a Pilot belonging to Mr. :k, who went out with me, to whom I gave 3 Dollars; 1 found I could as well have gone out my self, by the indings I made at coming in. The Wind was E. by N. fair Wcaihcr. By 10 a Clock I was got past all and then sent away my Pilot. At 12 Cape Sal- lore bore N. distant 6 Leagues, and we had the Winds :n the K. by N. and S, E. a considerable Time, so that we kept along near the Shore, commonly in Sight of it. The Southerly blasts had now left us again ; for they come at first in short Flurries, and shift to other Points (for 10 or 1 2 Days sometimes) before they are quite set in : And we had uncertain Wind*, between Sea and Land-Breezes, the Coasting-Trade, which was its self unsettled. I The Easterly- Winds at present made mc doubt I Id not weather a great Shoal which lies in Lat. 'cen 18 dec. and 19 dcg. S. and runs a great Way the Sea, directly from the Land, Easterly. Indeed Weather was fair (and continued so a good while) ^that I might the better avoid any Danger from it: if the Wind came to the Southward I knew I could ;ch off to Sea; so that I jo^'d on couragiousty. The 405 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. 27th of April we saw a small Brigantine under the Shore 1699 plying to the Southward. We also saw many Men of War-birds and Boobies, and Abundance of Albicore-Fish. Having still fair Weather, small Gales, and some Calms, I had the Opportunity of trying the Current, which 1 found to set sometimes Northerly and sometimes Southerly: And therefore knew I was still within the Verge of the Tides, Being now in the Lat. of the Abrohlo Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I sounded, and had Water lessening from 40 to 33, and so to 25 Fathom: But then it rose again to 33, 35, 37, &c. all Coral Rocks. Whilst we were on this Shoal (which we crossed towards the further part of it from Land, where it lay deep, and so was not dangerous) we caught a great many Fish with Hook and Line : and by evening Amplitude we had 6 deg. 38 min. East Variation. This was the 27th of April ; we were then in Lat. 1 8 deg. 1 3 min. S. and East Longitude from Cape Salvadore 31 min. On the 29th, being then in Lat. 18 deg. 39 min. S. we had small Gales from the W. N. W. to the W. S. W. often shifting. The 30th we had the Winds from W. to S. S. E. Squalls and Rain : And we saw some Dolphins and other Fish about us. We were now out of Sight of Land, and had been so 4 or 5 Days: But the Winds now hanging in the South was an apparent Sign that we were still too nigh the Shore to receive the true General East-Trade; as the Easterly Winds we had before shewM that we were too far off the Land to have the Benefit of the Coasting South-Trade: and the Faintness of both these Winds, and their often shifting from the S. S. W. to the S. E. with Squalls, Rain and small Gales, were a Confirmation of our being between the Verge of the S. Coasting-Trade, and that of the true Trade ; which is here, regularly, S. E. The 3d of May being in Lat. 20 deg. 00 min. and Merid. distance West from Cape Salvadore 234 Miles, the Variation was 7 deg. 00 min. We saw no Fowl but Shear-waters,^ as our Sea-men call them, being a small ^ The dusky puffin. 406 \RKS COOKED— A DEAD WHALE = Ic Fowl th»t sweep the Water as they fly, and are *<::h in the Seas that lie without either of the Tropicks : '^ r ^^ arc not eaten. We caught 3 small Sharks, each ~ ■^ oot 4 Inches long; and they were very good Food for 1^- The next Day we caught 3 more Sharks of the same B^^, and we eat ihcm also, esteeming them as good Fish B^'^l'd and press'd, and then stew'd with Vinegar and Pepper. H We had nothing of Remark from the 3d of May ^^ the loth, only now and then seeing a small Whale spouting up the Water. We had the Wind Easterly, and *c ran with it to the Southward, running in this Time from the Lat. of 20 dcg. 00 m. to 29 deg. 5 min. S. and having then 7 d. 3 m. E. Long, from C. Salvadore; the Variation increasing upon us, at present, notwithstand- ii^ we went East. We had all along a great Difference between the Morning and Evening Amplitudes; usually I Degree or two, and sometimes more. We were now in the true Trade, and therefore made good Way to the Southward, to get without the Verge of the General Trade-Wind into a Westerly Wind's way, that might ^^J carry u« towards the Cape of Goud Hope. By the 12th ^^H of May, being tn Lat. 31 deg. 10 min. we began to meet ^^H with Westerly Winds, which freshned on us, and did not ^^H leave as till a little before wc made the Cape. Sometimes '. h blew so hard that it put us under a Fore-course ; cspc- ' \ rally in the Night ; but In the Day-time we had commonly ^1 Kour Main Top-sail rifL Wc met with nothing of Moment; ^^H Bonly we past by a dead Whale, and saw Millions (as I ^^H ■ nuy «ay) of Sca-Fowls about the Carcass (and as far round ^^^ about it as we could see) some feeding, and the rest flying , about, or sitting on the Water, waiting to take their Turns, , We first discovered the Whale by the Fowls ; for indeed I I did never see so many Fowls at once in my Life before, their Numbers being inconceivably great : They were of j diren Sorts, in Bigness, Shape and Colour. Some were I ilinost as big as Geese, of a grey Colour, with white Breasts, and with such Bills, Wings, and Tails. Some : Pintado '-Birds, as big as Ducks, and speckled black ' Dc^i«m Mfitmiii, or Pinudo petrel. 407 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and white. Some were Shear-waters; some Petrels •/ and *^ there were several Sorts of large Fowls. We saw of these Birds, especially the Rntado-birds, all the Sea over from about 200 Leagues distant from the Coast of Brazil, to within much the same Distance of New-Holland. The Pintado is a Southern Bird, and of that temperate Zone; for I never saw of them much to the Northward of 30 deg. S. The Pintado-bird is as big as a Duck; bat appears, as it flies, about the Bigness of a tame Fidgeoo, having a short Tail, but the Wings very long, as most Sea-Fowls have ; especially such as these that fly far from the Shore, and seldom come nigh it; for their Resting is sitting afloat upon the Water; but they lay, I suppose, ashore. There are three Sorts of these Birds, all of the same Make and Bigness, and are only different in Colour. The first is black all over: The second Sort are grey, with white Bellies and Breasts. The third Sort, which is the true Pintado, or Painted-bird, is curiously spotted white and black. Their Heads, and the Tips of thdr Wings and Tails, are black for about an Inch ; and thdr Wings are also edg*d quite round with such a small black List ; only within the black on the Tip of their Wings there is a white Spot seeming as they fly (for then thdr Spots are best seen) as big as a Half-crown. All tlus is on the Outside of the Tails and Wings ; and as there is a white Spot in the black Tip of the Wings, so there is in the Middle of the Wings which is white, a black Spot ; but this, towards the Back of the Bird, turns gradually to a dark grey. The Back it self, from the Head to the Tip of the Tail, and the Edge of the Wings next to the Back, are all over-spotted with fine small, round, white and black Spots, as big as a Silver Two- pence, and as close as they can stick one by another : The Belly, Thighs, Sides, and inner-part of the Wings, are of a light grey. These Birds, of all these Sorts, fly many together, never high, but almost sweeping the Water. We shot one a while after on the Water in a Calm, and a Water- ^ Procellaria pelagica, 408 THE PETREL— VARIATION :l we had with us brought it in : I have given a an. of it [Sec Birds, Fig. i] but it was so damaged, "^ i,thc Picture doth not shew it to Advantage ; and its tre best seen when the Feathers are spread as it flies. 'he Petrel is a Bird not much unlike a Swallow, but er, and with a shorter Tail. 'Tis all over black, a white Spot on the Kump. They fly sweeping like ws, and very near the Water. They are not so often I fair Weather; being Foul-weather Birds, as our I call them, and presaging a Storm when they come a Ship; who for that Reason don't love to see them. :orm they will hover close under the Ship's Stern, in ITake of the Ship (as 'tis call'd) or the Smoothness the Ship's passing has made on the Sea : And there By fly (gently then) they pat the Water alternately their Feet, as if they walk'd upon it ; tho' still upon Wing. And from hence the Seamen give them the K of Petrels, in Allusion to St. Peter's walking upon |jdce of Genncsareth. iKTe also saw many Bunches of Sea-weeds in the Lat. of S2. and by Judgment, near the Meridian of the Island Un d' Aeon ha : And then we had about z d. 20 min. Vuialion : which was now again decreasing as we ran I Eastward, till near the Meridian of Ascention; where nnd little or no Variation : Bui from thence, as we ttber to the East, our Variation increased Westerly. iro Days before I made the Cape of G. Hope, my tion was 7 dcg. 58 min. West. I was then in 43 17 min. East Longit, from C. Salvador, being in E5 dcg- 30 min. this was the first of June. The of June I saw a large black Fowl, with a whitish RJI, fly by us ; and took great Notice of it, because in Sast-Ind'ta Waggoner, or Pilot-book, there is mention r of large Fowls, as Wg as Ravens, with white flat land black Feathers, that fly not above 30 Leagues the Cape, and are look'd on as a Sign ' of ones being )C thm Vojrijge at Thonuu Steven* to Gtxt (the Hnktuifl of ijSq); MduBf oar Gni »iga%, the n ' ' * it fowb Bpp«iiiic<1. . ♦09 . Some (tbey call) fiifvtt CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. near it. My Reckoning made me then think my self '^ above 90 Leagues from the Gipe, according to the Longi- tude which the Cape hath in the common Sea-Charts: So that I was in some doubt, whether these were the rig^ Fowls spoken of in the Waggoner ; or whether those Fowl might not fly farther off Shore than is there mendooed; or whether, as it prov*d, I might not be nearer the Ofe than I reckoned my self to be ; for I found, soon ffto^ that I was not then above 25 or 30 Leagues at most fm the Cape. Whether the Fault were in the Charts b!pt% down the Cape too much to the East from Bruil| or were rather in our Reckoning, I could not tell : But of Reckonings are liable to such Uncertainties from Steeng^ Log, Currents, Half-Minute-Glasses ; and sometimes vnt of Care, as in so long a Run cause often a Difference cf many Leagues in the whole Account. Most of my Men that kept Journals imputed it to dx Half-Minute Glasses : and indeed we had not a good Glass in the Ship beside the Half-watch or Two-Hou^ Glasses. As for our Half-Minute- Glasses ^ we tried thea all at several Times, and we found those that we had used from Brazil as much too short, as others we had used before were too long : which might well make great Errort in those several Reckonings. A Ship ought therefore to have its Glasses very exact ; and besides, an extracxtliniry Care ought to be used in heaving the Log, for fear rf giving too much Stray-Line ^ in a moderate Gale ; and ibo to stop ^ quickly in a brisk Gale, for when a Ship runs 8, 9 or 10 Knots, half a Knot or a Knot is soon run out, and not heeded : But to prevent Danger, when a Man thinb himself near Land, the best way is to look out betimes, and lye by in the Night, for a Commander may err cafllf Sleez'cs^ because they have wings of the colour of velvet, and boweth the© as a man boweth his elbow. This bird is always welcome for he appeal*^ nearest the Cape." The ** Waggoner, or Pilot-Book," is vol. iil of **'n* English Pilot." * The glasses used at the heaving of the log. • A few yards of log-line allowed at each heaving of the log to cnabk the log-ship to float clear of the ** dead water" under the vessel's counter. ' To check the running of the log-line at the instant the sand ka*cs the half-minute glass. 410 MFFICULTIES IN TAKING VARIATION isclf ; beside the Errors of those under him, tho' never am. carefully eyed. '^ Another Thing that stumbled me here was the Varia- t, which, at this Time, by the last Amplitude i had I pnd to be but 7 Ucg. 58 min. W. whereas the Variation the Cape {from which 1 found my self not 30 Leagues ant) was then computed, and truly, about 1 1 deg. or PC : And yet a while after this, when I was got 10 ^uc3 to the Eastward of the Cape, I found the Variation 10 dcg. 40 min. W, whereas it should have been rather re than at the Cape. These Things, 1 confess, did tik mc : Neither was I fully satisfied as to the Exactness the taking the Variation at Sea : For in a great Sea, ich we often meet with, the Compass will traverse with B Motion of the Ship; besides the Ship may and will viate somewhat in steering, even by the best Helmsmen : id then when you come to take an Azimuth, there is :n some Difference between him that looks at the npass, and the Man that takes the Altitude heighth uf Sun; and a small Error in each, if the Error of both Ould be one way, will make it wide of any great Exact- But what was most shocking to me, I found that Variation did not always increase or decrease in I'ro- ■tion 10 the Degrees of Longitude East or West ; as I * a Notion ihcy might do to a certain Number of Degrees Variation East or West, at such or such particular ridians. But finding in this Voyage that the Difference Variation did not bear a regular Proportion 10 the tcc of Longitude, 1 was much pleas'cl to see it thus rv'd in a Scheme shewn mc after my Return home, ncin are represented the several Variations in the Jitick Sea, on both Sides the Equator ; and there, the : o( no Variation in that Sea is not a Meridian Une, goc» very oblique, as da those also which shew the ease of Variation on each Side of it. In that Draught B is «o large an Advance made as well towards the counting for those seemingly irregular Increases and Kreascs of Variation towards the S. K. Coast of America, towards the fixing a general Scheme or System of the 4'l CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AM. Variation every where, which woald be of sach great Use '^ in Navigation^ that I cannot but hope that the ingenious Authw, Capt. Haliy,^ who to his prc^oand Skill in aO Theories of these kinds, hath added and is adding cod- tinually Personal Elxpenments, will e*er long oblige the World with a fuller Discovery of the Course of the Variation, which hath hitherto been a Secret. For fflf Part I profess my self unqualified for offering at anf thing of a General Scheme ; but since Matter of Fact, and whatever increases the History of the Variation, mj be of use towards the settling or confirming the Theory of it, I shall here once for all insert a Table of all the Variations I observed beyond the Equator in this Voyage, both in going out, and returning back ; and what Enois there may -be in it, I shall leave to be corrected by the Observations of others. A Table of Variations D. M. S. Lat. D. M. Longit. 6 12 14 18 '9 19 20 22 24 26 28 '5 45 49 ^3 00 22 I 47 23 44 47 9 I 12 00 00 2 3 3 3 3 3 4 5 47 fl 9 10 b 3> 20 51 40 48 53 53 35 50 D. M. Variat. 3 3 7 6 6 27 E 27 o 38 30 8 15 7 o 9 7 40 36 10 15 7 »4 9 45 a W. from St. Jagb. h £. from C. Salvador in BraziL ' His theory of the variation of the compass was based on the supposition that there existed four magnetic poles, two of which were movable. 412 A TABLE OF VARIATIONS 1 1 1699. 1 D. M. S. Lat. D. M. Longit. D. M. Variat. AN. 1699 May. 10 29 s 7 3 II 41 H II 29 23 7 38 12 47 17 34 S» i8 43 5 40 18 34 54 19 06 6 19 «9 35 48 '9 45 5 6 *3 39 4* 27 I » 5$ *S 39 »« 3« 35 2 June. I ■ 35 30 1 43 *7 7 58W s . 35 8 00 23 r ID 40 6 1 36 7 3 6 II 10 8 i f 36 17 10 3 15 CO 9 : 35 59 12 «9 38 12 35 *o 20 18 21 35 14 35 5 26 13 23 so »5 34 5» *? *1 25 56 >7 34 *7 36 8 *4 54 1 '9 34 «7 39 *4 25 29 t zo t 34 «5 42 25 24 22 1 22 33 34 45 41 22 15 *5 35 « 45 28 24 30 ; ' *8 36 40 49 33 22 50 1 *9 36 40 ' 53 12 22 44 = ..5° 36 15 56 22 21 40 Jmfy. I 35 35 5« 44 «9 45 4 33 32 66 22 16 40 6 3« 30 68 34 12 20 7 3« 4S 69 00 12 2 10 ; 32 39 70 21 13 36 II 33 4 72 00 12 29 '3 , 21 17 74 43 10 '5 i 29 20 75 25 10 28 18 28 16 78 29 9 5« 23 : 26 43 84 19 9 '« 24 26 28 85 20 8 9 25 26 14 85 52 8 40 . 26 25 3^ 86 21 8 20 27 26 43 86 16 7 ! ' 29 27 3« 87 25 8 20 3> 26 54 88 1 9 ^-'^- 5 25 30 * E. from C. 86 3 0. Hope. 7 24 413 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES A ^T 1699. D. M. D. M. D. M. ' AN. 1699 S. Lat. Longit Variat Aug. «5 24 41 86 2d 6 6W 17 23 2 00 22 7 6 ' 20 19 37 3 00 7 00 24 19 52 4 41 7 7 25 >9 45 5 'o 6 40 27 19 24 6 II 5 «8 28 18 38 6 57 6 12 Sept. 6 17 16 9 18 4 3 7 16 9 8 57 2 7 ' 8 15 37 9 34 2 20 1 10 13 55 10 55 I 47 ' II 13 12 II 42 I 47 Dec. 29 5 « 6 3^ ' I 2 E 1 700. Jan. 3 I 32 6 53 4 8 Feb. 13 9 2 48/ 4 16 12 7 3< 6 26 21 12 15 23 8 45 23 43 18 00 8 45 27 * 43 19 41 9 50 ' Mar. 10 5 10 00 5^ I 13 5 35 00 44 i& 9 30 5 15 6 4 8 25W Apr. 6 3 32 8 25 7 16 22 I 32 00 37 i 3 00 ; May. I 3 00 i 2 15 E 24 9 59 cx) 25 / I5W 27 H 33 3 30 I 25 June, 2 19 44 8 7 5 38 1 3 19 51 9 58 6 10 4 19 46 II 6 6 20 5 20 00 12 22 4 58 6 20 00 14 17 7 20 9 19 59 16 01 6 32 II 9 57 17 42 8 I 12 19 48 19 6 ( Nov. 7 21 26 m 9 14 27 1 35 35 16 50 1 1 15 27 10 36 34 18 57 1 16 27 11 37 54 17 24 1 1 19 28 14 41 40 19 39 d £. from Sharks-Bay in N. Holland. e £. from Babao-Bay in J. Timor. f E. from C. Mabu in N. Guinea. g E. from C. St. George on I. N. Brittannia. A W. from ditto. i W. from C. Mabu. i At Anchor off I. Cerain. / W. from Babao-Bay. m W. from Princes Iile bj Ja?a-Head. 414 A TABLE OF VARIATIONS V flW^V^^ D. M. D. M. D. M. 1700. S. Lat. Longit. Variat. Nov. 21 29 24 44 47 20 50 W *3 29 42 47 34 21 38 24 30 16 49 26 26 00 *s 30 40 51 24 22 38 27 3' SI 55 5 22 40 29 32 55 56 28 27 ID 30 31 55 57 *5 27 ID Dec, I 31 57 58 17 24 30 2 31 57 59 33 27 57 4 3* 3 61 45 24 50 6 3* 15 66 00 23 30 7 37 2« 68 36 24 48 8 33 49 64 38 21 53 9 32 49 70 09 24 00 II 32 50 71 45 21 15 13 31 55 72 32 20 16 14 3« 35 73 39 20 00 '5 32 21 75 ^2 20 00 17 33 5 79 39 18 42 18 33 80 39 17 15 21 34 39 82 46 16 41 22 34 36 83 19 14 36 23 34 *i «3 42 14 00 *5 34 3» 84 21 14 00 D I . Jam. 15 3> ^5 2 32 « 10 20 16 30 5 4 42 9 36 »7 28 46 6 8 8 25 18 27 26 7 32 7 40 19 26 II 9 9 7 30 20 25 00 10 49 7 9 21 23 42 12 34 6 55 22 22 51 14 10 5 5^> *3 2! 48 15 17 5 ^l 24 21 24 IS SI 4 S^ , 26 >9 S7 16 48 4 20 i 27 19 10 17 22 3 24 1 28 18 13 18 23 4 00 1 29 17 22 19 29 2 00 Feb, 16 12 52 3 80 I 50 i 17 «« 55 4 42 I 10 18 II 17 s 30 20 >9 10 22 6 32 I 10 ( 21 \Vc made t he I. Ascemi on. on the Table Land at C. G. Hope. • W. f rom Santa Helen AN. 1699 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. But to return from this Digression : Having fair 1699 Weather, and the Winds hanging Southerly, I jog'd on to the Eastward, to make the Czpc. On the third of June we saw a Sail to Leeward of us, shewing English Colours. I bore away to speak with her, and found her to be the Antelope of London, commanded by Captan Hammond, and bound for the Bay of Bengal in the Service of the New-East-India Company. There were many Passengers aboard, going to settle there under Sir Edward Littleton, who was going Chief thither: I went aboard, and was known by Sir Edward and Mr. Hedges, and kindly received and treated by them and the Commander; who had been afraid of us before, tho* I had sent one of my Officers aboard. They had been in at the Cape, and came from thence the Day before, having stocked them- selves with Refreshments. They told me that they were by Reckoning, 60 Miles to the West of the Cape. While I was aboard them, a fine small Westerly Wind sprang up ; therefore I shortned my stay with them, because I did not design to go into the Cape. When I took leave I was presented with half a Mutton, 12 Cabbages, 12 Pumkins, 6 Pound of Butter, 6 Couple of Stock-fish, and a quantity of Parsnips ; sending them some Oatmeal, which they wanted. From my first setting out from England, I did not design to touch at the Cape ; and that was one Reason why I touch'd at Brazil, that there I might refresh my Men, and prepare them for a long Run to New Holland. We had not yet seen the Land ; but about 2 in the After- noon we saw the Cape-Land bearing East, at above 16 Leagues distance; And Captain Hammond being also bound to double the Cape, we jog*d on together this Afternoon and the next Day, and had several fair Sights of it ; which may be seen [Table IIL omitted]. To proceed : Having still a Westerly Wind, I jog'd on in company with the Antelope^ till Sunday June the 4th at 4 in the Afternoon, when we parted ; they steering away for the East-Indies, and I keeping an E. S. E. Course, the better to make my way for New Holland : For tho' 416 ■ COLOURED CLOUDS I Hew Holliind lies North-Easterly from the Cape, yet all an. J %ip6 bound towards that Coast, or the Streights of Sundy, '^1 cxight to keep for a while in the same Parallel, or in a I L«c. between 35 and 40, at least a tittle to the S. of the I Ernst, that they may continue in a variable Winds way; I uid not venture too soon to stand so far to the North, as I to be within the Verge of the Trade-Wind, which will I put them by their Easterly Course. The Wind increased I npon us; but we had yet sight of the Antelope, and of the I Land too, till Tuesday the 6th of June : And then we I Mw also by us an innumerable Company of Fowls of divers I fOrts ; so that we look'd about to see if there were not I teothcr dead Whale, but saw none. I ^B The Night before, the Sun set in a black Cloud, which I ^Beared just like Land ; and the Clouds above it were I HBed of a dark red Colour. And on the Tuesday, as the I Son drew near the Horizon, the Clouds were gilded very I ettiJy to the Eye, tho' at the same time my Mind dreaded I K Consequences of it. When the Sun was now not above I g. high, it entered Into a dark Smoaky-coloured Cloud I lay parallel with the Horizon, from whence presently I li'd to issue many dusky blackish Beams. The Sky I t at this time covered with small hard Clouds (as we I I such M lye scattering about, not likely to Rain) very -I dc one by another ; and such of them as lay next to I E Bank of Clouds at the Horizon, were of a pure Gold I Colour to 3 or 4 deg. high above the Bank : P'rom these 1 toibout 10 deg. high they were redder, and very bright ; I ibove them they were of a darker Colour still, to about I 60 or 70 deg. high ; where the Clouds began to be of their I HMumon Colour. 1 took the more particular Notice of all I tliH, because I have generally observed such colour'd Clouds I i;o appear before an approaching Storm : And this being I tier here, and the time for bad Weather, I expected I provided for a violent blast of Wind, by riffing our I Kuls, and giving a strict charge to my Officers to hand I I or take them in, if the Wind should grow stronger. I the Wind was now at W. N. W. a very brisk Gale. I Uboui 12 a Clock at N'ight we had a pale whitish Glare \ fOL. II. 417 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. in the N. W. which was another Sign, and intimated the '^ Storm to be near at hand ; and the Wind increasing upon it, we presently handed our Top-sails, furled the Main- sail, and went away only with our Fore-sail. Before 2 in the Morning it came on very fierce, and we kept r^ht before Wind and Sea, the Wind still encreasing : But the Ship was very governable, and steered incomparably wclL At 8 in the Morning we settled our Fore-yard, lowering it 4 or 5 Foot, and we ran very swiftly ; especially when the Squalls of Rain or Hail, from a black Cloud, came over Head, for then it blew excessive hard. These, tho* thcf did not last long, yet came very thick and fast one aftff another. The Sea also ran very high ; But we rutuiing « violently before Wind and Sea, we ship*d little or no Water; tho' a little wash*d into our upper Deck-Ports ; and with it a Scuttle or Cuttle-Fish was cast upon the Carriige of a Gun. The Wind blew extraordinary hard all Wcdncsdiy, the yth of June, but abated of its fierceness before Night; Yet it continued a brisk Gale till about the 1 6th, and stiB a moderate one till the 19th Day; by which time ire had run about 600 Leagues : For the most part of which time the Wind was in some point of the West, viz. from the W. N. W. to the S. by W. It blew hardest when at W. or between the W. and S. W. but after it veered moff Southerly the foul Weather broke up : This I observed at other times also in these Seas, that when the StcMins at West veered to the Southward they grew less ; and that when the Wind came to the E. of the S. we had sdll smaller Gales, Calms, and fair Weather. As for the Westerly Winds on that side the Gipe, we like them never the worse for being violent, for they drive us the faster to the Eastward ; and are therefore the only Winds coveted by those who Sail towards such parts of the East-Indies, as lye South of the Equator ; as Timor, Java, and Sumatra; and by the Ships bound for China, or any other that arc to pass through the Streights of Sundy. Those Ships having once past the Cape, keep commonly pretty far Southerly, on purpose to meet with these West-winds, which in the 418 WINDS AND COURSE S^intcr Season of these Climates they soon meet with ; for Air ien the Winds arc generally Westerly at the Cape, and '*99 B>ccially to the Southward of It : But in their Summer onths they get to the Southward of 40 deg. usually e'er bey meet with the Westerly Winds. 1 was not at this imc in a higher Lat. than 36 deg. 40 min. and oftentimes ISS more Northerly, altering my Latitude often as Winds nd Weather required ; for in such long Runs 'tis best to ^pc one's Course according to the Winds. And if in Beerij^ 10 the East, we should be obliged to bear a little 9 the N. or S. of it, 'tis no great Matter ; for 'tis but kilii^^ 2 or 3 Points from the Wind, when 'tis either lortherly or Southerly ; and this not only easeth the Ship rom straining, but shortens the way more than if a Ship rM kept close on a Wind, as some Men are fond of doing. I The 19th of June, we were in Lat. 34 deg. 17 min. S. nd Long, from the Cape 39 deg. 24 min. IL. and had mall Gales and Calms. The Winds were at N. K. by E. nd continued in some Part of the t^. till the 27th Day. Vhen it having been some time at N. N. E. it came bout at N. and then to the W. of the N. and continued B the West-board (between the N. N. W. and S. S. W.) ill the 4th of July; in which Time wc ran 782 Miles; ben the Winds came about again to the East, we reckoning Kir selves to be in a Meridian 1 lOO L. East of the Cape ; nd having fair Weather, sounded, but had no Ground. Wc met with little of Remark in this Voyage, besides icing accompanied with Fowls all the way, es[x:cially Kniado-Birds, and seeing now and then a Whale : But as re drew nighcr the Coast of New-Holland, we saw fre- uently 3 or 4 Whales together. When we were about 90 .agues from the Land we began to see Sea-weeds, all of DC Sort ; and as wc drew nighcr the Shore we saw them Korc frequently- At about 30 Leagues distance we began D sec some Scutttc-boncs ' floating on the Water ; and draw- ■g still nighcr the Land we saw greater Quantities of them. July 25, being in Lat. 26 d^. 14 min. S. and Longi- citnle-bnne," the daru] piece of the coimnoD CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. tude E. from the C. of Good Hope 85 deg. 52 min. wc '^ saw a large Gar-fish leap 4 Times by us, which seemed to be as big as a Porpose. It was now very fair Weather, and the Sea was full of a Sort of very small Grass or Moss, which as it floated in the Water seemM to have been some Spawn of Fish ; and there was among it some small Fry. The next Day the Sea was full of small round Things like Pearl,^ some as big as white Peas ; they were very clear and transparent, and upon crushing any of them a Drop of Water would come forth : The Skin that contained the Water was so thin that it was but just discemable. Some Weeds swam by us, so that we did not doubt but we should quickly see Land. On the 27th also, some Weeds swim by us, and the Birds that had flown along with us all the way almost from Brazil, now left us, except only 2 or 3 Shear-waters. On the 28th we saw many Weeds swim by us, and some Whales, blowing. On the 29th we had dark cloudy Weather, with much Thunder, Lightning, and violent Rains in the Morning ; but in the Evening it grew fair. We saw this Day a Scuttle-bone swim by us, and some of our young Men a Seal, as it should seem by their Description of its Head. I saw also some Boneta's, and some Skipjacks, a Fish about 8 Inches long, broad and sizeable, not much unlike a Roach ; which our Seamen caD so from their leaping about. The 30th of July, being still nearer the Land, we saw Abundance of Scuttle-bones and Sea-weed, more Tokens that we were not far from it ; and saw also a Sort of Fowls, the like of which we had not seen in the whole Voyage, all the other Fowls having now left us. These were as big as Lapwings ; of a grey Colour, black about their Eyes, with red sharp Bills, long Wings, their Tails long and forked like Swallows ; and they flew flapping their Wings like Lapwings. In the Afternoon we met with a Ripling like a Tide or Current, or the Water of some Shoal or Over- fall ; but were past it before we could sound. The Birds last mention*d and this were further Signs of Land. In the * The minute sea-jellies and medusae are found in great abundance in these waters. 420 BROLHO SHOAL NEAR N. HOLLAND fair Weather, and a small Gale at West. \t 8 a Cl<xk wc sounded again ; but had no Ground- ' \Vc kept on still to the Eastward, with an easy Sail, --iking out sharp: For by the many Signs we had, I did L cct that wc were near the Land. At I2 a Clock in the ^ht I sounded, and had 45 Fathom, coarse Sand and ,null white Shells. I presently clapt on a Wind and stood :o the &>uth, with the Wind at W, because I thought we nrcrc to the South of a Shoal cali'd the Abrohles (an Appellative Name for Shoals,' as it seems to me) which in I Draught I had of that Coast is laid down in 27 deg. 28 niin. l^t. stretching about 7 Leagues into the Sea. I was the Day before in 27 deg. 38 min. by Reckoning. And iftcrwards steering E. byS. purposely to avoid it, I thought I must have been to the South of it : But sounding again, at I 1 Clock in the Morning, Aug. the first, wc had but 15 Fathom, Coral Rocks; and so found the Shoal was to the South of us. Wc presently tack'd again, and stood to ■}:■■ Nonh, and then soon deepncd our Water; for at 2 in Morning we had 26 Fathom Coral stilt : At 3 we had - Coral-ground : At 4 wc had 30 Fathom, coarse Sand, with some Corai : At 5 wc had 45 Fathom, coarse Sand and Shells; being now off the Shoal, as appear'd by the Sand and Shells, and by having left the Coral. By all this I knew we had fallen in to the North of the Shoal, and that it was laid down wrong in my Sea-Chart : For I found it lyc in about 27 deg. Lat. and by our Run tn the next Day, I found that the Outward-edge of it, which 1 sounded 00, lies 16 Ixagucs off' Shore. When it was Day wc ttecrcd in E. N. E. with a fine brisk Gale; but did not see the Land till 9 in the Morning, when we saw it from our Topmast-head, and were distant from it about to Leagues; having then 40 Fathom-water, and clean Sand. About 3 Huur» after we saw it on our Quarter-Deck, being by Judgment about 6 Leagues off, and we had then 40 Fathom, dean Sand. As wc ran in, this Day and the next, we took ■ Tb* AbronuN iboal is in lat. 17* iff S. It it •omeiimc* known ai Ac HodiiruB RtKkLor Houtman'i Abrolhm, ihc word "abrolhai" mean- liiV " Look «wt ■ «r " Mind younelt." k CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. several Sights of it, at different Bearings and Distances; '^ from which it appeared as you see in [Table IV. omitted]. And here I would note once for all, that the Latitudes markM in the Draughts, or Sights here given, are not the Latitude of the Land, but of the Ship when the Sight was taken. This Morning, August the first, as we were standing in we saw several large Sea-fowls, like our Gannets on the Coast of England, flying 3 or 4 together; and a Sort of white Sea-Mews, but black about the Eyes, and with forked Tails. We strove to run in near the Shore to seek for a Harbour to refresh us after our tedious Voyage ; having made one continued Stretch from Bnail hither of about 114 deg. designing from hence also to be^ the Discovery I had a Mind to make on N. Holland and N. Guinea. The Land was low, and apjDear'd even, and as we drew nearer to it, it made (as in Table IV. omitted) with some red and some white Clifts ; these last in Lat 26, 10 S. where you will find 54 Fathom, within 4 Mifcs of the Shore. About the Lat. of 26 deg. S. we saw an Opening, and ran in, hoping to find a Harbour there : But when we came to its Mouth, which was about 2 Leagues wide, we saw Rocks and foul Ground within, and therefore stood out again : There we had 20 Fathom-water within 2 Mik of the Shore. The Land every where appeared pretty low, flat and even ; but with steep Cliflfs to the Sea ; and when we came near it there were no Trees, Shrubs or Grass to be seen. The Soundings in the Lat. of 26 deg. S. fit>m about 8 or 9 Leagues off till you come within a League of the Shore, are generally about 40 Fathom ; differing but little, seldom above 3 or 4 Fathom. But the Lead brings up very different Sorts of Sand, some coarse, some fine; and of several Colours, as Yellow, White, Grey, Brown, Blueish and Reddish. When I saw there was no Harbour here, nor good anchoring, I stood off to Sea again, in the Evening of the second of August, fearing a Storm on a Lee-shore, in a Place where there was no Shelter, and desiring at least to have Sea-room : For the Clouds began to grow thick in 422 ARRIVAL AT SHARKS BAY : Wcstcm-hoard, and the Wind was already there, and began to blow fresh almost upon the Shore ; which at this Place lies along N. N- W. and S. S. E. By 9 a Clock at Night we had got a pretty good Offin ; but the Wind still iocreasing, t took in my Main Top-sail, being able to carry no more Sail than two Courses and the Mizen. At 2 in the Morning, Aug. 3, it blew very hard, and the Sea was much raised; so that 1 furled all my Sails but my Main- ail. Tho" the Wind blew so hard, we had pretty clear Weather till Noon : But then the whole Sky was blackned with thick Clouds, and we had some Rain, which would last a Quarter of an Hour at a Time, and then it would BW very fierce while the Squalls of Rain were over our id»; but as soon as they were gone the Wind was by :h abstcd, the Stress of the Storm being over. We ttltded several Times, but had no Ground till 8 a Clock J. the 4th in the Evening ; and then had 60 Fathom- :r. Coral-ground. At 10 we had 56 Fathom fine Sand. II wc bad 55 fathom, fine Sand, of a pale blueish llour. It was now pretty moderate Weather ; yet I ide no Sail till Morning; but then, the Wind veering mt to the S, W. 1 made Sail and stood to the North : id at ti a Clock the next Day, Aug. 5, we saw Land Rn, at about 10 Leagues distance. This Noon we were Lat. 25 dcg. 30 min. and in the afternoon our Cook d, an old Man, who had been sick a great while, being before wc came out of England. The 6th of August in the Morning we saw an Opening the i.and, and we ran into it, and anchored in 7 and a If Kaihom-watcr, 2 Miles from the Shore, clean Sand. waa somewhat difficult getting in here, by Reason of many Shoals we met with: But I sent my Boat sounding before mc. The Mouth of this Sound, which 1 catl'd ^rk's Bay,' lies in about 25 deg. S. Lat. and our Reckoning flMHnri; SlHuIn Btj is in t«l. ij" 10' S., long. 1 tj" 40' E, II retains ihe natn« ' g»Te if. Hf stwni) to have entrrrd ihc Sound by ihe " Nnturaliile ,* aith Dirk lUiXog't t«land on hi* iiarboard tide. The benh be ancbuml nould term to lie Dumpier May, lo the NE. of the Pcruo Uifk Hartng'* iiLind is nutned after ihe Amslcrdam tkippor, OclDber, 1616, 423 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. made its Longitude from the C. of Good Hope to be '^ about 87 Degrees; which is less by 195 Leagues than is usually laid down in our common Draughts, if our Reckon- | ing was right, and our Glasses did not deceive us. As I soon as I came to anchor in this Bay (of which I have given a Plan, Table omitted) I sent my Boat ashore to seek for fresh Water: But in the Evening my Men returned, having found none. The next Morning I went ashore myself, carrying Pick-axes and Shovels with me, to d^ for Water ; and Axes to cut Wood. We tried in scvenl Places for Water, but finding none after several Trials, nor in several Miles Compass, we left any farther Search for it, and spending the rest of the Day in cutting Wood, we went aboard at Night. The Land is of an indifferent Heighth, so that it may be seen 9 or 10 Leagues off. It appears at a Distance very even ; but as you come nigher you find there are many gentle Risings, tho' none steep nor high. *Tis all a stcq) Shore against the open Sea : But in this Bay or Sound we were now in, the Land is low by the Sea-side, rising gradu- ally in within the Land. The Mould is Sand by the Sea- side, producing a large Sort of Sampier,^ which bears a white Flower. Farther in, the Mould is reddish, a Sort of Sand producing some Grass, Plants, and Shrubs. The Grass grows in great Tufts, as big as a Bushel, here and there a Tuft : Being intermixed with much Heath, mudi of the kind we have growing on our Commons in England. Of Trees or Shrubs here are divers Sorts ; but none above 10 Foot high : Their Bodies about 3 Foot about, and 5 or 6 Foot high before you come to the Branches, which arc bushy and composed of small Twigs there spreading abroad, tho' thick set, and full of Leaves ; which were mostly long and narrow. The Colour of the Leaves was on one Side whitish, and on the other green ; and the Bark of the Trees was generally of the same Colour with the Leaves, of a pale green. Some of these Trees were sweet-scented, and reddish within the Bark, like Sassafras, but redder. ^ Samphire, the edible Crithmnm maritimum, 424 W VEGETABLES AND BEASTS I Most of the Trees and Shrubs had at this Time either an. 1 Blossoms or Berries on them. The Blossoms of the different '^1 Sort of TrcL-s were of several Colours, as red, while, I yclluw, &c, but mostly blue: And these generally smelt I Very sweet and fragrant, as did some also of the rest. I There were also beside some Plants, Herbs, and tall Flowers, I very small Flowers, growing on the Ground, that I : sweet and beautiful, and for the most part unlike any I ■d seen elsewhere. I There were but few Land-Fowls; we saw none but I gles, of the larger Sorts of Birds ; but 5 or 6 Sorts of I lall Birds. The biggest Sort of these were not bigger I 9hin [jrks; some no bigger than Wrens, all singing with I great Variety of fine shrill Notes ; and we saw some of their I Nests with young Ones in them. The Water-Fowls are I Kicks, (which had young Ones now, this being the Begin- I IB of the Spring in these Parts;) Curlews, Galdens, I ■b- catchers. Cormorants, Gulls, Pelicans ; and some 1 IUer-l*"owl, such as I have not seen any where besides. J lave given the Pictures of 4 several Birds on this Coast. I BcBird*: Fig. 2, 3,4.5-] I The Land-Animals that we saw here were only a Sort I Raccoons,' different from those of the West-Indies, I icfiy as to their Legs; for these have very short Fore- I p; but go jumping upon them as the others do, (and I X them arc very good Meat :) And a Sort of Guano's, I ' the same Shape and Size with other Guano's, dcscrih'd ' ^ol. L p. 87], but differing from them in 3 remarkable rticalara : F'or these had a larger and uglier Head, and i no Tail: And a( the Rump, instead ot the Tail there. By had a Slump of a Tail, which appcar'd like another , but not really such, being without Mouth or Eyes: K this Creature secm'd by this Means to have a Head at •b End ; and. which may be rcckon'd a fourth Difference, S Legs also secm'd all 4 of them to be Fore-legs, bci i alike in ShajK and Length, and seeming by the Joints I Tbi* tes beta rc^rdcd as ■ dcKfiixlon of ihe kan^^roo ; but it u ~t KIcbIT ^ tav9 been the IcanKaroo-rat, which is birly coiumon i CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and Bending to be made as if they were to go indificraitiy "^ either Head or Tail foremost. They were speckled black and yellow like Toads, and had Scales or Knobs on thdr Backs like those of Crocodiles, plated on to the Skin, or stuck into it, as part of the SIdn. They arc yery slow in Motion ; and when a Man comes nigh them they will stand still and hiss, not endeavouring to get iwiy. Their Livers are also spotted black and yellow: Aod the Body when opened hath a very unsavory Smell. I did never see such ugly Creatures any where but hot. The Guano*s I have observed to be very good Mat: And I have often eaten of them with Pleasure; but tho* I have eaten of Snakes, Crocodiles and Allegators, and many Creatures that look frightfully enough, and there are but few I should have been afnid to eat of, if prest by Hunger, yet I think my Stomach would scarce have served to venture upon these N. HoUand Guano*s, both the Looks and the Smell of them bdng so offensive. The Sea-fish that we saw here (for here was no Kvcr, Land or Pond of fresh Water to be seen) are chiefly Sharks. There are Abundance of them in this particular Sound, that I therefore give it the Name of Shark's Bay. Here are also Skates, Thornbacks, and other Fish of the Ray- kind ; (one Sort especially like the Sea-Devil) and Gar-fish, Boneta*s, &c. Of Shell-fish we got here Muscles, Peri- winkles, Limpits, Oysters, both of the Pearl- kind and also Eating-Oysters, as well the common Sort as long Oysters; beside Cockles, &c. The Shore was lined thick with many other sorts of very strange and beautiful Shells, for variety of Colour and Shape, most finely spotted with Red, Black, or Yellow, &c. such as I have not seen any where but at this place. I brought away a great many of them ; but lost all, except a very few, and those not of the best. There are also some green Turtle weighing about 200 ft. Of these we caught 2 which the Water Ebbing had left behind a Ledge of Rock, which they could not creep over. These served all my Company 2 Days ; and 426 -TttAffrnk rftfh. ,i A emora txktn sticKin^ to Sharkj Ifuckj a ^^■CREAT SHARK— NO WATER I^^Rr indificrent sweet Meat. Of the Sharks we an. p^t a great maoy, which our Men eat very savourily. '^ bong them we caught one which was 1 1 Hoot long. ■e space between 'tis two Eyes was 20 Inches, and 18 Ucs from one Comer of his Mouth to the other. Its BV was like a Leather Sack, very thick, and so tnugh kt a sharp Knife could scarce cut it : In which we found • Head and Boans of a Hippopotomus ; the hairy Lips fcwhich were still sound and not putrified, and the Jaw ■ also firm, out of which we pluckt a great many Teeth, ■ them 8 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Thumb, mil at one end, and a little crooked ; the rest not above if so long. The Maw was full of Jelly which stank ■eamly: However I saved for a while the Teeth and E Sharks Jaw: The Ftcsh of it was divided among my ■D ; and they took care that no waste should be made JTwas the 7th of August when we came into Shark's w; in which we Anchor*d at three several Places, and •'d at the first of them (on the W. side of the Bay) till i lith. During which time we searched about, as I said, r fresh Water, digging Wells, but to no purpose. How- |r, wc cut good store of Fire-wood at this first Anchor- place ; and my Company were all here very well shed with Raccoons, Turtle, Shark and other Fish, ; Fowlcs; so that we were now all much brisker I when we came in hither. Yet still I was for standing into the Bay, partly because I had a Mind to in- my Slock of fresh Water, which was began to be partly for the sake of Discovering this part of t. I was invited to go further, by seeing from I Anchoring-placc all open before me; which therefore 'gned to search before I left the Bay. So on the 1 1 th t Noon, I steer 'd farther in, with an easic Sail, because but shallow Water: We kept therefore good out for fear of Sholcs ; sometimes shortning, Rimes deepning the Water. About 2 in the Afternoon f the Land a Head that makes the S. of the Bay, and Kighi we had again Sholdings from that Shore : 427 ^M CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. And therefore shortned Sail and stood ofF and on all Night, '^ under 2 Topsails, continually sounding, having never more then lo Fathom, and seldom less than 7. The Water deepned and sholdned so very gently, that in heaving the Lead 5 or 6 times we should scarce have a Foot difFerencc. When we came into 7 Fathom either way, we presently went about. From this S. part of the Bay, we could not see the Land from whence we came in the Afternoon: And this Land we found to be an Island of 3 or 4 Leagues long, as is seen in the Plan, [Table omitted] but it appearing barren, I did not strive to go nearer it ; and the rather because the Winds would not permit us to do it without much Trouble, and at the Openings the Water was generally Shole. I therefore made no farther attempts in this S. W. and S. part of the Bay, but steered away to the Eastward, to see if there was any Land that way, fot as yet we had seen none there. On the 12th in the Morning we pass*d by the N. Point of that Land, and were con- firm'd in the Persuasion of its being an Island, by seeing an Opening to the East of it, as we had done on the W. Having fair Weather, a small Gale and smooth Water, we stood further on in the Bay, to see what Land was on the E. of it. Our Soundings at first were 7 Fathom, which held so a great while, but at length it decreased to 6. Then we saw the Land right a-head, that in the Plan makes the E. of the Bay. We could not come near it with the Ship, having but Shole water : and it being dangerous lying there, and the Land extraordinarily low, very unlikely to have fresh Water, (though it had a few Trees on it, seemingly Mangroves) and much of it probably covered at High- water, I stood out again that Afternoon, deepning the Water, and before Night anchored in 8 Fathom, clean white Sand, about the middle of the Bay. The next day we got up our Anchor ; and that Afternoon came to an Anchor once more near two Islands, and a Shole of Corral Rocks that face the Bay. Here I scrubbed my Ship : ^^^ finding it very improbable I should get any thing further here, I made the best of my way out to Sea again, sounding all the way : but finding by the shallowness of the Water 428 WATER-SERPENTS il there was no going out to Sea to the East of the two mds that face the Bay, nor between them, 1 return'd to '^'1 : West Entrance, going out by the same Way 1 came in only on the East instead of the West-side of the small lie to Ik seen in the Plan : in which Channel we had , 13, and 13 Fathom-water, still deepning upon us till were out at Sea. The day before we came out 1 sent Boat ashore to the most Northerly of the Two Islands, ich is the least of them, catching many small Fish in mean while with Hook and Line. The Boat's Crew iming, told me, That the Isle produces nothing but a C of green, short, han.i, prickly Grass, aiFording neither "ood nor fresh Water; and that a Sea broak between the Islands, a Sign that the Water was shallow. They a lai^e Turtle, and many Skates and Thornbacks, but neht none. It was August the 14th when 1 sail'd out of this Bay Sound, the Mouth of which lies, as I said, in 25 deg. 5 ji. designing to coast along to the N, E. till I might mmodiriusly put in at some other prt of N. Holland, pas&ing out we saw three Water-Serpents swimming But in the Sea, of a yellow Colour, spotted with dark, nrn Spots. They were each about four Foot long, and out the bigness of a Man's Wrist, and were the first I w on this Coast, which abounds with several sorts of em. We had the Winds at our first coming out at N. d the Land lying North-Easterly. We plied off and on, Ktttng forward but little till the next day: When the ind coming at S. S. W, and S. wc began to Coast it along B Shon to the Northward, keeping at 6 or 7 Leagues off nd sounding often, we had between 40 and 46 ;hom-water, brown Sand, with some white Shells. This th of August we were in Lat. 24 deg. 4 1 min. On the Ch Day at Noon we were in 23 deg. 22 min. The Wind Mning at E. by N. wc could not keep the Shore aboard, were forced to go farther off', and lost sight of L^nd. Then sounding wc had no Ground with 80 Khom-line; however the Wind shortly after came about Co the Southward, and then wc jogg'd on again 429 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. to the Northward, and saw many small Dolphins and 1699 Whales, and abundance of Scuttle-shells swimming on the Sea ; and some Water-snalces every day. The 17th we saw the Land again, and took a Sight of it. [Table omitted.] The 1 8 th in the Afternoon, being 3 or 4 Leagues off Shore, I saw a Shole-point, stretching from the Land into the Sea, a League or more. The Sea broke high on it ; bjr which I saw plainly there was a Shole there. I stood farther off, and coasted along Shore, to about 7 or 8 Leagues distance : And at 1 2 a Clock at Night we sounded, and had but 20 Fathom, hard Sand. By this I found I wis upon another Shoal, and so jpresently steered off W. half an Hour, and had then 40 Fathom. At One in tlie Morning of the i8th Day we had 85 Fathom : By two we could find no Ground ; and then I ventur d to steer along Shore again, due N. which is two Points wide of the Coast (that lies N. N. E.) for fear of another Shoal. I would not be too far off from the Land, being desirous to seardi into it where-ever I should find an Opening or any Con- venience of searching about for Water, &c. When iw were off the Shoal-point I mentioned, where we had but 20 Fathom-water, we had in the Night Abundance of Whales about the Ship, some a-head, others a-stern, and some on each side blowing and making a very dismal Noise; but when we came out again into deeper Water they left us. Indeed the Noise that they made by blowing and dashing of the Sea with their Tails, making it all of a Breach and Foam, was very dreadful to us, like the Breach of the Waves in very Shoal-water, or among Rocks. The Shoal these Whales were upon had Depth of Water sufficient, no less than 20 Fathom, as I said ; and it lies in Lat. 22 deg. 22 min. The Shore was generally bold all along; we had met with no Shoal at Sea since the Abrohlo-shoal, when we first fell on the N. Holland Coast in the Lat. of 28, till Yesterday in the Afternoon, and this Night. This Morn- ing also when we expected by the Draught we had with us to have been 1 1 Leagues off Shore, we were but 4 ; so thit either our Draughts were faulty, which yet hitherto and 430 COASTING ALONG N. HOLLAND \ mnrds wc found true enough as to the lying of the an. it, or else here was a Tide unknown to us that deceived '^ tho' wc had found very little of any Tide on this It hitherto. As to our Winds in the Coasting thus far, e had been within the Verge of the general Trade (tho' Tuptcd by the Storm 1 mention'd) from the Lat. of when we first fell in with the Coast ; And by that we were in the Lat. of 25, wc had usually the J'radc-wind (which is here S. S, E.) when we were ■ny Distance from Shore : But we had often Sea and -Breezes, especially when near Shore, and when in ;'»-bay ; and had a. particular N. West Wind, or n, that set us in thither. On this i8ih of August coasted with a brisk Gale of the true Trade-wind at E. very fair and clear Weather ; but haling off in the ening to Sea, were next Morning out of Sight of Land ; i the Land now trending away N. Easterly, and we g to the Norward of it, and the Wind also shrinking n the S. S. E. to the E. S. E. (that is, from the true de-Wind to the Sea-breeze, as the Land now lay) we Id not get in with the Land again yet a-while, so as to it, tho' we trim'd sharp and kept close on a Wind, were this 19th day in l^t. 21 deg. 42 min. The 20th BTcre in Lat. 19 deg. 37 min. and kept close on a Wind get Sight of the l^nd again, but could not yet see it. had very fair Weather; and tho' we were so far from I Land as to be out of Sight of it, yet we had the Sea " Land -Breezes. In the Night wc had the Land-Breeze S. S. K. a small gentle Gale ; which in the Morning t Sun-ming would shift about gradually (and withal ling in Strength) till about Noon wc should have it E. S. E. which is the true Sea-breeze here. Then it old blow a brisk Gale, so that we could scircc carry our Ip-satls double rift : And it would continue thus till 3 in Afternoon, when il would decrease again. The Weather fair all the while, not a Cloud to be seen ; but very ly, cspedally nigh the Horizon. Wc sounded several ics this 20th Day, and at first had no Ground ; but afterwards from 52 to +5 Fathom, coarse brown Sand, 43' J CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. mi3ct with small brown and white Stones, with Dints besides '^ in the Tallow.^ The list Day also we had small Land-breezes in the Night, and Sea-breezes in the Day : And as we saw some Sei-«nakcs every Day, so this Day we saw a great many, of two different Sorts or Shapes. One Sort was yellow, and about the Bigness of a Man's Wrist, about 4 Foot long, having a fiat Tail about 4 Fingers broad. The other Sort was much smaller and shorter, round and spotted black and yellow. This Day we sounded several Times, and had +5 Fathom Sand. We did not make the Land till Noon^ and then saw it first from our Topmast-head. It bore S. E. by E. about 9 Leagues distance; and it appeared like a Cape or Head of Land. The Sea-breeze this Day was not so strong as the Day before, and it veered out more ; so chat we had a fair Wind to run in with to the Shore, and at Sunset anchored in 20 Fathom, clean Sand, about 5 Leagues from the bluflF Point ; which was not a Cape (as it appeared at a great EHstance) but the Eastermost End of an Island, about 5 or 6 Leagues in length, and I in breadth. There were 3 or 4 Rocky Islands about a League from us between us and the bluff Point; and we saw many other Islands both to the East and West ot it, as far as we could sec either way from our Topmast-head : And all within them to the S. there was nothing but Islands of a pretty Heighth, that may be seen 3 or 9 Leagues off. By what we saw of them they must have been a Range of Islands of about 20 Leagues in length, stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W. and for ought I know, as far as to those of Shark VBay ; and to a considerable Breadth also, (for we could see 9 or lO Leagues in among them) towards the Continent or main Land of N. Holland, if there be any such Thing here- abouts : And by the great Tides I met with a while after- wards, more to the N. East, I had a strong Suspicion that here might be a kind of Archipelago of Islands, and a Passage possibly to the S. of N. Holland and N. Guinea * The tallow, or ^^ arming," in a hole at the end of the leaden plummet used in sounding. 432 W TASMAN'S DRAUGHT I nto the great S. Sea Eastward ; which I had Thoughts ah. I ■Iso of attempting in my Return from N. Guinea (had '^1 Circumsunccs jicrmittcd) and told my Officers so: But I I would not attempt it at this Time, because we wanted I Witcr, and could not depend upon finding it there. This I Place is tn the Lat. of 20 deg. 21 min. but in the Draught I thai 1 had of this Coast, which was Tasman's,' it was laid I down in 19 deg. 50 min. and the Shore is laid down as all I Kitmg joining in one Body or Continent, with some Open- I tngs appearing like Rivers ; and not like Islands, as really I they are. This Place lies more Northerly by 40 min. 1 than is laid down in Mr. Tasman's Draught : And beside its being made a firm, continued Land, only with I •ome Oi>cnings like the Mouths of Rivers, I found the I Soundings also different from what the prick'd Line of hi5 Course shews them, and generally shallower than he I aukes them ; which inclines me to think that he came I not M) near the Shore as his Line shews, and so had I deeper Soundings, and could not so well distinguish the I lllaitds. His Meridian or Difference of Longitude from 1 ShftrleVBay agrees well enough with my Account, which I is 13a Leagues, tho' wc differ in Lat. And to confirm my Conjecture that the Line of his Course is made too near the Shore, at least not far to the East of this Place, ^B Water is there so shallow that he could not come I wre so nigh. I 1^ But to proceed : in the Night we had a small Land- Ofctzc, and in the Morning I weighed Anchor, designing to run in among the Islands, for they had large Channels I between them, of a League wide at least, and some 2 or 3 gues wide. I sent in my Boat before to sound, and if / found Shoal-water to return again ; but if they found I ■fitter enough, to go ashore on one of ihe Islands, and f till the Ship came in : where they might in the mean I ; search for Water. So wc followed after with the I , sounding as we went in, and had 20 Fathom, till I I z Leagues of the Bluff-head, and then we had shoal I f '• Abell Tatnian, Tlie " Uraugfai " here mt^ntinnrd wmi pmbabljr a copy I n Kkndke'* AUju, i>T in the mup by Vankegtcn. I l»oL. II. 433 2 E I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Water, and very uncertain Soundings : Yet we ran in still 1699 with an easy Sail, sounding and looking out well, for this was dangerous Work. When wc came abreast of the BlufF-head, and about 2 Mile from it, we had but 7 Fathom : Then we edg*d away from it, but had no more Water; and running in a little farther, we had but 4 Fathoms ; so we anchored immediately ; and yet when wc had veered out a third of a Cable we had 7 Fathom Water again; so uncertain was the Water. My Boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the Island was very rocky and dry, and they had little Hopes of finding Water there. I sent them to sound, and bad them, if they found a Channel of 8 or 10 Fathom Water, to keep on, and we would follow with the Ship. We were now about 4 Leagues within the outer small rocky Islands, but still could see nothing but Islands within us ; some 5 or 6 Leagues long, others not above a Mile round. The large Islands were pretty high ; but all appeared dry, and mostly rocky and barren. The Rocks look'd of a rusty yellow Colour, and therefore I despaired of getting Water on any of them ; but was in some Hopes of finding a Channel to run in beyond all these Islands, could I have spent Time here, and either get to the Main of New Holland, or find out some other Islands that might afford us Water and other Refreshments : Besides, that among so many Islands, we might have found some Sort of rich Mineral, or Ambergreece, it being a good Latitude for both these. But we had not sailed above a League farther before our Water grew shoaler again, and then we anchored in 6 Fathom hard Sand. We were now on the inner Side of the Island, on whose out-side is the BlufF-point. We rode a League from the Island, and I presently went ashore, and carried Shovels to dig for Water, but found none. There grow here 2 or 3 Sorts of Shrubs, one just like Rosemary ; and therefore 1 caird this Rosemary Island. It grew in great Plenty here, but had no Smell. Some of the other Shrubs had blue and yellow Flowers ; and we found 2 Sorts of Grain like Beans : The one grew on Bushes ; the other on a Sort of 434 EGETABLES ON ROSEMARY ISLAND I ceping Vine that runs along on the Ground, having an. I thick broad Leaves, and the Blossom like a Bean '^B IBom, but much larger, and of a deep red Colour, I mg very beautiful. We saw here some Cormorants, I lIU, Crahcatchers, &c. a few small Land-Birds, and a I of white Parrots, which flew a great many tngcther. I found some Shell-fish, viz. Limpils, Perriwinklcs, and I Rindancc of small Oysters growing on the Rocks, which I (e very sweet. In the Sea we saw some green Turtle, a I tty many Sharks, and Abundance of Water-Snakes of I ral Sorts and Sizes. The Stones were all of rusty I lur, and ponderous. I Wc saw a Smoak on an Island 3 or 4 Leagues oflF; and 1 also the Bushes had been burned, but we found no I Sign of Inhabitants : 'Twas probable that on the I id wnerc the Smoak was there were Inhabitants, and I ih Water for ihem. In the Evening I went aboard, and I iultcd with my Officers whether it was best to send I icr, or to search among any other of these Islands with I Boat; or else go from hence, and coast along Shore I ih the Ship, till we could find some better Place than I I was to ride in, where we had shoal Water, anti lay I os'd to Winds and Tides. They all agreed to go from I ce; so I gave Orders to weigh in the Morning as soon I t should be light, and to get out with the Land-breeze. I Accordingly, August the 23d, at 5 in the Morning wc I out, having a preiiy fresh Land-breeze at S. S. E, By I Clock we were got out, and very seasonably ; for before I be Sea-breeze came on us very strong, and increasing, we I lie in our Top-sails and stood off under 2 Courses and a I IKcn, this being as much Sail as we could carry. The I was clear, there being not one Cloud to be seen ; but I Horizon appeared very hazy, and the Sun at setting the I ;ht before, and this Morning at rising, ap(>earcd very I . The Wind continued very strong till I3, then tt I to abate : 1 have seldom met with a stronger Breeze. I strong Sca-Breezcs lasted thus in iheir Turns 3 or 4 I They sprung up with the Sun-rise ; by 9 a Clock I very strong, and so continued tilt Noon, when 1 43$ I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. they began to abate; and by Sun-set there was little 1699 Wind, or a Gilm till the Land-breezes came ; wWch wc should certainly have in the Morning about i or 2 a ClocL The Land-breezes were between the S. S. W. and S. S. E. The Sea-breezes between the E. N. E. and N. N. E. In the Night while Gilm, we fish'd with Hook and Line, and caught good Store of Fish, viz. Snappers, Breams, Old- Wives, and Dog-fish. When these last came we seldom caught any others ; for if they did not drive away the other Fish, yet they would be sure to keep them from taking our Hooks, for they would first have them themselves, tJtii^ very greedily. We caught also a Monk-fish, of which I brought Home the Picture. See Fish, Fig. L On the 25 th of August, we still coasted along Shore, that we might the better see any Opening ; kept sounding, and had about 20 Fathom clean Sand. The 26th Day, bang about 4 Leagues off Shore, the Water began gradually to sholden from 20 to 14 Fathom. I was edging in a little towards the Land, thinking to have anchored ; but presently after the Water decreased almost at once, till we had but 5 Fathom. I durst therefore adventure no farther, but steer'd out the same way that we came in ; and in a short Time had i o Fathom (being then about 4 Leagues and a half from the Shore) and even Soundings. I steer*d away E. N. E. coasting along as the Land lies. This Day the Sea-breezes began to be very moderate again, and wc made the best of our way along Shore, only in the Night edging off a little for Fear of Sholes. Ever since we left Sharks- Bay we had fair clear Weather, and so for a great while still. The 27th Day, we had 20 Fathom Water all Night, yet we could not see Land till i in the Afternoon from our Topmast-head. By 3 we could just discern Land from our Quarter-deck; we had then 16 Fathom. The Wind was at N. and we steer*d E. by N. which is but one Point in on the Land ; yet we decreased our Water very fast ; for at 4 we had but 9 Fathom ; the next Cast but 7, which frighted us; and we then tackt instantly and stood off: But in a short Time the Wind coming at N. W. and W. N. W. we tackt again, and steerM N. N E and then 436 NODDY BIRDS • Water again, and had all Night from 15 to 20 am. '^1 The 28th Dxy we had between 20 and 40 Fathom, c saw no Land this Day, but saw a great many Snakes * some Whales. We saw also some Boobies, and Noddy- Is ; and in the Night caught one of these last. It was tnoiher Shape and Colour than any I had seen before, had a small long Bill, as all of them have, flat Feet like :k.s Feet; its Tail forked like a Swallow, but longer and ,dcr, and the Fork deeper than that of the Swallow, I very long Wings ; the Top or Crown of the Head of Noddy was Coal-black, having also small black Streaks ind about and close to the Eyes ; and round these on each Side, a pretty broad white Circle. The M, Belly, and under part of ihe Wings of this Noddy : white ; and the Back and upper part of its Wings of nt black or smoak Colour. Sec a Picture of this, and the common one, Birds, Fig. 5, 6. Noddies are seen in St Places between the Tropicks, as well in the East- tics, and on the Coast of Brazil, as in the West-Indies. ley rest ashore a Nights, and therefore we never see them at Scs^ not above 20 or 30 Leagues, unless driven off in <orm. When they come about a Ship they commonly ■ch in the Night, and will sit still till ihey are taken by t Seamen. They build on Cliffs against the Sea, or cks, as 1 have said Vol. I. p. 83. The 30th day, being in Lat. 18 deg. 2i min. we made t Land again, and saw many great Smokes near the xe ; and having fair Weather and moderate Breezes, 1 er'd in towards it. At 4 in the Afternoon I anchor'd in Fathom Water, clear Sand, about 3 Leagues and a half •n the Shore. I presently sent my Boat to sound nearer and they found 10 Fathom about a Mile farther in; and ■It thence still farther in the Water decreased gradually 9, 8, 7, and at 2 Mile distance to 6 Fathom. This etiing wc saw an Eclipse of the Moon, but it was abating ore the Moon appear 'd to us; for the Horizon was very ty, so that we could not see the Moon till she had been fan Hour above the Horizon : And at 2 hours, 22 min. 437 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. after Sun-set, by the Reckoning of our Glasses, the Eclipse 1699 was quite gone, which was not of many Digits. The Moon's Center was then 33 deg. 40 min. high. The 31st of August betimes in the Morning I went ashore with 10 or 11 Men to search for Water. We went armed with Muskets and Cutlasses for our defence, expect- ing to see people there ; and carried also Shovels and Rck- axes to dig Wells. When we came near the Shore wcsaw 3 tall black naked Men on the sandy Bay a head of us: But as we rowM in, they went away. When wc were landed, I sent the Boat with' two Men in her to lie a littk from the Shore at an Anchor, to prevent being seiz'd; while the rest of us went after the 3 black Men, who were now got on the top of a small Hill about a quarter of a Mile from us, with 8 or 9 Men more in their Company. They seeing us coming, ran away. When we came on the top of the Hill where they first stood, we saw a plain Savannah, about half a Mile from us, farther in from the Sea, There were several Things like Hay-cocks,^ staning in the Savannah ; which at a distance we thought were Houses, looking just like the Hottentot's Houses at the Cape of G. Hope : but we found them to be so many Rodcs. We searched about these for Water, but could find none, nor any Houses; nor People, for they were all gone. Then we turned again to the Place where we landed, and there we dug for Water. While we were at work there came 9 or 10 of the Natives to a small Hill a little way from us, and stood there menacing and threatning of us, and making a great Noise. At last one of them came towards us, and the rest followed at a distance. I went out to meet him, and came within 50 Yards of him, making to him all the Signs of Peace and Friendship I could; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them stay for us to come nigh them ; for we tried two or three Times. At last I took two Men with me, and went in the After- noon along by the Sea-side, purposely to catch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got their * Flinders suggests that these were ant-hills, of the kind seen by Pclsart in 1629. 438 ■ NATIVES OF NEW HOLLAND | ■Esh Water. There were lo or 12 of the Natives a little an. J ■By off, who seeing us three going away from the rest of '^1 mtr Men, followed us at a distance. 1 thought they would 1 ImIow us : Bui there being for a while a Sand-bank between I us and them, that they could not then see us, we made a I halt, and hid our selves in a bending of the Sand bank. I fbcy knew we must be thereabouts, and being 3 or 4. times I ^'— Number, thought to seize us. So they dispers'd them- I some going to the Sea-shore, and others beating I ut the Sand-hills. We knew by what Rencounter we had I 1 with them in the Morning that we could easily out-run I m. So a nimble young Man ' that was with me, seeing I M of them near, ran towards them ; and they tor some I e, ran away before him. But he soon over-taking them, I f faced about and fought him. He had a Cutlass, and I y had wooden Lances ; with which, being many of them, I f were too hard for him. When he first ran towards I nt I chas'd two more that were by the Shore : But fear- I how it might be with my young Man, I turn'd back | ckly. and went up to the top of a Sandhill, whence I I ' him near me, closely engag'd with them. Upon their I ing me, one of them threw a Lance at me, that narrowly I B*d mc. I discharg'd my Gun to scare them, but I Otded shooting any of them; till finding the young Man I Kfcat danger from them, and my self in some ; and that I D the Gun had a little frighted them at first, yet they I d soon learnt to despise it, tossing up their Hands, and 1 ying Pooh, Pooh, Pooh ; and coming on afresh with a great I 'ye, I thought it high time to charge again, and shoot I of them, which I did. The rest, seeing him fall, made I Kand again; and my young Man took the Opportunity to I ■engage himself, and come off to me ; my other Man I was with me, who had done nothing all this while, I ; out unarm'd ; and 1 rcturn'd tiack with my ling to attempt the Natives no farther, being what had happened already. They took up be yoaaf Ri*n was Aleundrr Bcale. Bale received a wooden lance li hn dun i but "«ilh hit CuiUcc did to cleave one pari of hin oppU' J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. their wounded Companion ; and my young Man, who had *^ been struck through the Cheek by one of their Lances, was afraid it had been poisoned : But I did not think that likely. His Wound was very painful to him, being made with a blunt Weapon : But he soon recovcrM of it Among the N. Hollanders, whom we were thus engag'd with, there was one who by his Appearance and Carnage, as well in the Morning as this Afternoon, secm*d to be the Chief of them, and a kind of Prince or Captain among them. He was a young brisk Man, not very tall, nor so personable as some of the rest, tho' more active and couragious : He was painted (which none of the rest were at all) with a Circle of white Paste or Pigment (a sort of Lime, as we thought) about his Eyes, and a white streak down his Nose from his Forehead to the tip of it. And his Breast and some part of his Arms were also made white with the same Paint ; not for Beauty or Ornament, one would think, but as some wild Indian Warriors are said to do, he secm'd thereby to design the looking more Terrible; this his Painting adding very much to his natural D^ formity; for they all of them have the most unpleasant Looks and the worst Features of any People that ever I saw, though I have seen great variety of Savages. These New-Hollanders were probably the same sort of People as those I met with on this Coast in my '* Voyage round the World " ; [See Vol. I. p. 453, &c.] for the Place I then touched at was not above 40 or 50 Leagues to the N. E. of this : And these were much the same blinking Creatures (here being also abundance of the same kind of Flesh-flics teizing them) and with the same bla^k Skins, and Hair frizled, tall and thin, &c. as those were : But we had not the Opportunity to see whether these, as the former, wanted two of their Fore-Teeth. We saw a great many places where they had made Fires; and where there were commonly 3 or 4 Boughs stuck up to Windward of them ; for the Wind (which is the Sea-breeze) in the day-time blows always one way witn them ; and the Land-breeze is but small. By their Rrc- places we should always find great heaps of Fish-shells, of 440 R NATIVES OF NEW HOLLAND— TIDES eVCTsl sorts ; and 'tis probable that these poor Creatures src iiveii chiefly on the Shell-fish, as those I before 1699 escrib'd did on small Fish, which they caught in Wire r Holes in the Sand at Low-water. These gather'd their tiell'fish on the Rocks at Low-water; but had no Wires :hat wc saw) whereby to get any other sorts of Fish : As Dong the former I saw not any heaps of Shells as here, lough I know they also gather'd some Shell-fish. The «nccs also of those were such as these had ; however they ing upon an Island, with their Women and Children, and in nur Power, they did not there use them against us, here on the Continent, where we saw none but some of E Men under Head, who come out purposely to observe Wc saw no Houses at either Place; and I believe cy have none, since the former People on the Island had ne, tho" they had all their Families with them. Upon returning to my Men I saw that though they d dug 8 or 9 Foot deep, yet found no Water. So 1 ra aboard that Evening, and the next day, being ibcr 1st, 1 sent my Boatswain ashore to dig deeper, id »ent the Sain with him to catch Fish. While I staid ^oord I observed the flowing of the Tide, which runs very 'ift here, so that our Nun-buoy ' would not bear above : Water to be seen. It flows here (as on that part of Holland I described formerly) about 5 Fathom : And ■e the Flood runs S. E. by S. till the last Quarter ; then lets right in towards the Shore (which lies here S, S. W. ■d N. N. E.) and the Ebb runs N. W. by N. When the idcs slackned wc fish'd with Hook and Line, as we had Ircmdy done in several Places on this Coast ; on which in '1 Voyage hitherto, wc had found but little Tides: Bi2t f the Hcighth, and Strength, and Course of them here- touts, it should seem that if there be such a Passage or reight going through Eastward to the Great South-Sea, I said otie might suspect, one would expect to find the ' Tbc DitD-tnMy it « broad ryliiidcr in iis middle p.in and iiipera to » K ai eSiCh c)m1. In ibc day* of hemp c;ibln lurh a buoy waa £asten»d I rape lo llu anrhnr " to dcteimine the place where the amrhnr lay," ; the ibip might not coone too near it 10 enianKle her cable about the J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES ^^ Mouth of it somewhere between this Place and Rosemary 1699 island, which was the part of New Holland I came last rom. Next Morning my Men came aboard and brought a Rundlet of brackish Water which they got out of another Well that they dug in a Place a mile off, and about half as far from the Shore ; but this Water was not fit to drint However we all concluded that it would serve to boil our Oatmeal, for Burgoo,^ whereby we might save the Remains of our other Water for drinking, till we should get more; and accordingly the next Day we brought aboard 4 Hogs- heads of it : But while we were at work about the Well we were sadly pestcr'd with the Flies, which were more troublesome to us than the Sun, tho' it shone clear and strong upon us all the while, very hot. All this while wc saw no more of the Natives, but saw some of the Smoab of some of their Fires at 2 or 3 miles distance. The Land hereabouts was much like the part of New Holland that I formerly described [Vol. I. p. 452], 'tis low, but seemingly barricado*d with a long Chain of Sand- hills to the Sea, that let's nothing be seen of what is farther within Land. At high Water the Tides rising so high as they do, the Coast shews very low ; but when *tis low Water it seems to be of an indifferent height h. At low Water- mark the Shore is all Rocky, so that then there is no Landing with a Boat ; but at high Water a Boat may come in over those Rocks to the Sandy Bay, which runs all along on this Coast. The Land by the Sea for about 5 or 6cx) yards is a dry Sandy Soil, bearing only Shrubs and Bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this time of the Year, yellow Flowers or Blossoms, some blue, and some white; most of them of a very fragrant Smell. Some had Fruit like Peascods ; in each of which there were just ten small Peas : I opened many of them, and found no more nor less. There are also here some of that sort of Bean which I saw at Rosemary-Island : And another sort of small, red, hard Pulse, growing in Cods also, with little black Eyes ' Porridge. The word is still in use at sea. 442 THEIR BEASTS AND FOWLS I know not their Names, but have seen them am. ' often in the East-Indies for weighing Gold ; and they '*99j ce the same use of them at Guinea, as I have heard, rrc the Women also make Bracelets with them to wear ut their Arms. These grow on Bushes ; but here are ( a Fruit like Beans growing on a creeping sort of ub-likc Vine. There was a great plenty of all these 3 of Oxl-fruit growing on the Sand-hills by the Sea- I, some of them green, some npe, and some fallen on Ground : But 1 could not perceive that any of them been gathered by the Natives; and might not probably wholesome Food. The Land farther in, that is lower than what borders the Sea, was so much as we saw of it, very plain and Ji ; partly Savannahs, and partly Woodland. The innahs bear a sort of thin coarse Grass. The Mould is a a coarser Sand than thai by the Sea-side, and in some ce» 'tis Clay. Here are a great many Rocks in the large taniuh wc were in, which are 5 or 6 Foot high, and ad at top like a Hay-cock, very remarkable; some red, some white. The Woodland lies farther in still ; re there were divers sorts of small Trees, scarce any :c Foot in circumference; their Bodies 12 or 14 Foot )i, with I Head of small Knibs or Boughs. By the s of the Creeks, especially nigh the Sea, there grow a ' small black Mangrove-Trees. There are but few Land-Animals. I saw some Lizards ; , my Men saw two or three Beasts like hungry Wolves,' 1 like so many Skeletons, being nothing but Skin and ics: *Tis probable that it was the Foot of one of those sts that I mention 'd as seen by us in N. Holland, [Vol, P' 45 j}' ^^ ^^ ^ Rackoon* or two, and one small ickJed Snake. The Land-fowls that we saw here were Crows (just ■h as ours in E\ngland) small Hawks, and Kites; a few each sort: But here arc plenty of small Turtle-Doves, t are plump, fat and very good Meat. Here are 2 or 3 > Pn)t«bt]r diOK''' ' I'crliapt bandicooU. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. sorts of smaller Birds, some as big as Larks, some less ; but ^^ not many of cither sort. The Sea-Fowl arc Pelicans, Boobies, Noddies, Curlews, See-pies, &c. and but few of these neither. The Sea is plentifully stock'd with the largest Whales that I ever saw ; but not to compare with the vast ones of the Northern Seas. We saw also a great many Green Turtle, but caught none ; here being no place to set a Turtle-Net in ; here being no Channel for them, and the Tides running so strong. We saw some Sharks, and Parracoots; and with Hooks and Lines we caught some Rock-fish and Old-Wives. Of Shell-fish, here were Oysters both of the common kind for Eating, and of the Pearl kind : And also Wilks, Conchs, Muscles, Limpits, Perri- winkles, &c. and I gathered a few strange Shells ; chiefly a sort not large, and thick-set all about with Rays or Spikes growing in Rows. And thus having ranged about, a considerable time, upon this Coast, without finding any good fresh Water, or any convenient Place to clean the Ship, as I had hop'dfor: And it being moreover the heighth of the dry Season, and my Men growing Scorbutick for want of Refreshments, so that I had little incouragement to search further; I resolved to leave this Coast, and accordingly in the begin- ning of September set sail towards Timor. 444 AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN ASIL, NEW HOLLAND, TIMOR, AND NEW GUINEA, REFERRING TO THE FIGURES EN- GRAVEN ON THE COPPER PLATES AB. I. Fig. I. Cotton-flower from Baya ' in Brazil. 1 he Flower consists of a great many ' Filaments, almost as small as Hairs, betwixt three and four Inches long, of a Murrey-colour;' on Top of them stand small ash-colour'd Apices. The Icule of the Flowur is inclos'd at the Bottom with 5 iw stiff Leaves, about 6 Inches long. There is one of Genus in Mr. Ray's Supplement, which agrees exactly lih this in every Respect, only that is twice larger at the t. It was sent from Surinam by the Name of Momoo. Tab. I, Fig. 2. Jasminum Brasilianum luleum, tna/i tmi^ folio Htrvosn, pelalis crassis. Tib. I. Fig. 3. Crista Pavonis Brasiiiana Bardan^ foliii. K Leaves are very tender and Hkc the top Leaves of lama majtr, both as to Shape and Texture : In the jure they arc represented too stiff and too much serrated. T»b. I. Fig. 4. Fi/ix Brasiiiana Osmuna^ minori serrate I, This Fern is of that Kind, which bears its Sced- •eb in Lines on the Edge of the Leaves. * B«hift. * or tfve rolout u( A mulberry. 445 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Tab. 2. Fig. i. Rapuntium Nova Hollandist^floremaffiQ >699 coccineo. The Perianthium compos'd of five long-pointed Parts, the Form of the Seed- Vessel and the Smallncss of the Seeds, together with the irr^ular Shape of the Flower and Thinness of the Leaves, argue this plant to be a Rapuntium. Tab. 2. Fig. 2. Fucus foltis capillaceis brevissimis^ vesiculis minimis donatis. This elegant Fucus is of the Erica Marina or Sargoza kind, but has much finer Parts than that. It was collected on this Coast of New Holland. Tab. 2. Fig. 2. Ricinoides Nova Hollandiie anguhso crasse folio. This Plant is shrubby, has thick woolly Leaves, especially on the under side. Its Fruit is tricoccous, hoary on the out-side with a Calix divided into 5 Parts. It comes near Ricini fructu parvo frucosa Curassavica^ fiSs Phylli, P. B.pr. Tab. 2. Fig. 2. Solatium spinosum Nova Hollandia PkjB foliis subrotundis. This new Solanum bears a blueish Flower like the others of the same Tribe ; the Leaves are of a whitish Colour, thick and woolly on both Sides, scarce an Inch long and near as broad. The Thorns arc very sharp and thick set, of a deep Orange colour, especially towards the Points. Tab, 3. Fig. i. Scabiosa {forte) Nova Hollandia^ staica foliis subtus argenteis. The Flower stands on a Foot-stalk 4 Inches long, included in a rough Calix of a yellowish Colour. The Leaves are not above an Inch long, very narrow like Thrift, green on the upper and hoary on the under side, growing in Tufts. Whether this Plant be a Scabious, Thrift or Helichrysum is hard to judge from the imperfect Flower of the dry*d Specimen. Tab. 3. Fig. 2. Alcea Nova Hollandia foliis augusus utrinque villosis. The Leaves, Stalk, and under side of the Perianthium of this Plant are all woolly. The Petala arc very tender, 5 in Number, scarce so large as the Calix : In the Middle stands a Columella thick set with thrummy apiculae, which argue this Plant to belong to the Malvaceous Kind. Tab. 3. Fig. 3. Of what Genus this Shrub or Tree is, 446 AN ACCOUNT OF PLANTS Uncertain, agreeing with none yet described, as far as an, ' be judg'd by the State it is in. It has a very beautiful '^ pfcr, of a red Colour, as far as can be guess'd by the dry :imcn, consisting of lO large Petala, hoary on both i s, especially umlerneath ; the Middle of the Flower is k set with Stamina, which are woolly at the Bottom, I Length of the Petala. each of them crown'd with its I 3t. The Calix is divided into 5 round pointed Parts. I e Leaves are like those of Amelanchier Lob. green at Top , very woolly underneath, not running to a Point, as is 1 unon in others, but with an Indenture at the upper-end. T»b. 3. Fig, 4. Dammam ax Nova-HollnnJia, Sanamund,^ mdx Cftysii film. This new Genus was first sent from iboyna by Mr. Rumphius, by the Name of Dammara, irhich he transmitted 2 Kinds ; one with narrow and g stiff Leaves, the other with shorter and broader. The t of them is mention'd in Mr. Petivcr's Ceniuria, p. 350. ' the name of Arbor Horlensis Jai^anorum fo/iis viite augus- ihui aromaijcis fioribus, spicans siamlneis luusceni'ihus ; Mus. As also in Mr. Ray's Supplement to his History of Its now in the Press. This is of the same Genus with 1, agreeing both in Flower and Fruit, tho' very much ring in Leaves, The Flowers|are stamineous and seem be of an herbaceous Colour, growing among the Leaves, ich are short and almost round, very stiff and ribb'd on ; under side, of a dark Green above, and a pale Colour ftcmeath, thick set on by Pairs, answering one another ■sways, so that they cover the Stalk. The Fruit is as ' as a Pepper-corn, almost round, of a whitish Colour, and tough, with a Hole on the top, containing small i*. Any one thai sees this Plant without its Seed- ■cls, would take it for an Erica or Sanamunda. The ffcs of this Plant are of a very aromatick Taste. Tab. 4. Kig, l. E^uiseiam Nov^ IhllanM^ fruiesceus feliis pssimis. 'I'ts doubtful whether this be an Exjuisetum or ; the Textures of the Leaves agree best with that lus of any, being articulated one within another at each It, which is only proper to this Tribe. The longest of D arc about 9 Inches. j 447 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Tab. 4. Fig. 2. Colutea Nova Hollandiie flmbus ampRs '^ coccineis^ umbellatim dispositis macula purpurea notatis. There being no Leaves to this Plant, 'tis hard to say what Genus it properly belongs to. The Flowers are very like to the Colutea Barba Jovis folio flore coccineo Breynii ; of the same Scarlet Colour, with a large deep Purple Spot in the Vcxil- lum, but much bigger, coming all from the same Point after the Manner of an Umbel. The Rudiment of the Pod is very woolly, and terminates in a Filament near 2 Inches long. Tab. 4. Fig. 3. Conyza Nova Hollandia angusiis Raris- marini foliis. This Plant is very much branched and seems to be woody. The Flowers stand on very short Pedicules, arising from the Sinus of the Leaves, which are exactly like Rosemary, only less. It tastes very bitter now dry. Tab. 4. Fig. 4. Mohoh Infula Timor. This is a very odd Plant, agreeing with no described Genus. The Leaf is almost round, green on the upper side and whitish under- neath, with several Fibres running from the Insertion of the Pedicule towards the Circumference 'tis umbilicated as Cotyledon aquatica and Faba MgyptiH. The Flowers are white, standing on single Foot-stalks, of the Shape of a Stramonium, but divided into 4 Points only, as is the Perianthium. Tab. 5. Fig. i. Fucus ex Nova Guinea uva marina dictus^ foliis variis. This beautiful Fucus is thick set with very small short Tufts of Leaves, which by the Help of a magnifying Glass, seem to be round and articulated, as if they were Seed- Vessels ; besides these, there are other broad Leaves, chiefly at the Extremity of the Branches, serrated on the Edges. The Vesiculae are round, of the Bigness expressed in the Figure. Tab. 5. Fig. 2. Fucus ex Nova Guinea Fluviatilis Pisani J, B. foliis. These Plants are so apt to vary in their Leaves, according to their different States, that *tis hard to say this is distinct from the last. It has in several Places (not all express'd in the Figure) some of the smal' short Leaves, or Seed- Vessels mention*d in the former; which makes me apt to believe it the same, gathered in * different State ; besides the broad Leaves of that and this agree as to their Shape and Indentures. 448 ant/ fhunJ tn J^u^ ^vUand. 3c J'tm a V i i « M^ i nyjiit nur , ^ X,. tf jt?S f Jf ! kiiili '1 AN ACCOUNT OF SOME FISHES THAT ARE FIGURED IN PLATE 2 & 3. See Plate 3, Fig. 5. THIS is a Fish of the Tunny-kind, and agrees well enough with the Figure in Tab. 3. of the Appendix to Mr. Willughby's History of Fishes under the Name of Gurabuca ; it differs some- thing, in the Fins especially, from Piso's Figure of the Guarapucu. See Plate 3, Fig. 4. This resembles the Figure of the Guaperva maxima candata in Willughby*s Ichthyol. Tab. 9, 23, and the Guaperva of Piso, but does not answer their Figures in every particular. See Plate 2, Fig. 2. There are 2 sorts of Porpusses: The one the long- snouted Porpuss, as the Seamen call it ; and this is the Dolphin of the Greeks. The other is the Bottle-nose Porpuss, which is generally thought to be the Phaecena of Aristotle. See Plate 2, Fig. 7. This is the Guaracapema of Piso and Marcgravc, by others called the Dorado. 'Tis figured in Willughby's Ichthyol. Tab. O. 2. under the Name of Delphin Belgis. VOL. II. 449 2 F :i !i:-;lll. CONTINUATION OF A VOYAGE TO NEW-HOLLAND, &c. In the Year 1699. Wbertin arc defcribed. The Iflands Timor, Rotee and Anabao. A Paffage between the IHands Timor and Anabao. Copang ind Laphao Bays. The Iflands Omba, Feller, Bande and Bird. A Defcrlption of the Coaft oi" New-GHiHea. The lilands Pulo Sabuda, Cockle, King H^illiam'i, Providence, Garret Dennis, Ant. Cave's and St. John's. Alfo a new Paffage be- tween A'. Guinea and Nova Britannia. The Iflands Ceram, Bonao, Bouro, and feveral Iflands before unknown. The Coaft of Java, and Strcights of Sunda. Author's Arrival at Balavia, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helens, I. Afenfion, &c. Their Inhabitants, Cuftoms, Trade, 6?c. Har- bours, Soil. Birds, Fifh, &?f. Trees, Plants, Fruits, i£c. Nnftntcd with Maps and Draughts: Alfo divers Birds, Fitbet, Sft. not (bund in this Part of the World, Ingraven Eighteen Copper-Plates. By Captain William Dampier. L O N !> O N, IPrintcd for Jamks umi/John Knapton, at the Cratiw in St. /*<w(/'s Church-Yard. Mdccxxix. ITHE CONTENTS CHAP. I *HE A.*s Departure from the Coast of New Holland, with the Reasons of it, Water-Snakes. The A.'s rival at the Island Timor. Search for fresh Water on the South-side of the Island, in vain. Fault of the Charts. The Island Rotee. A Passage between the 1 Timor and Anabao. Fault of the Charts. A Dutch , called Concordia. Their Suspicion of the A. The nd Atiabao described. The A.'s Parly with the Governour fuhe Dutch Fo(t. They, with great Difficulty, obtain leave [.water. Copang Bay. Coasting along the North-side of They find Water and an Anchoring- place, A Dcscrip- I of a utial) Island, seven Leagues East from the Watering Laphao Bay. How the A, was treated by the Portugueze Designs of making further Searches upon and about the Port Sesial. Return to Babao in Copang Bay. The I Entertainment at the Fort of Concordia. His stay seven t Babao. CHAP. II licubif Description of the Island Timor. It!t Coast. The Ind Anabao. Fault of the Draughts. The Channel between Itouif and Anabao. Copang>bay. Fort Concordia. A par- Description of ihc Bay. The Anchoring-place, called The Malayans here kill all the Europeans (hey can. , a Ponugueze Settlement, described. Port Ciccale. Hills, Water, Low-lands, Soil, Woods, Metals <n the knd Timor. Its Trees. Can a •fistula •tree described. Wild Street dcKribed. Two new Sorts of Palm-trees described. I Fniin of (he Island. The Herbs, Its I-and Animals. ■rU. The Ringing Bird, It^ Fiih. Cockle-merchants and Cockles a« big as a Man's Head. Its original Natives 453 THE CONTENTS described. The Portugueze and Dutch Settlements. The Malayan Language generally spoken here. L' Orantuca on the Island Ende. The Seasons, Winds, and Weather at Timor. CHAP. Ill Departure from Timor. The Islands Omba and Fetter. A burning Island. Their missing the Turtle-Isles. BandeJsIes. Bird- Island. They descry the Coast of New-Guinea. They anchor on the Coast of New-Guinea. A Description of the Place, and of a strange Fowl found there. Great Quantities of Mackerel A white Island. They anchor at an Island called by the Inhabitants Pulo Sabuda. A Description of it, and i5 Inhabitants and Product. The Indians manner of Fishing there. Arrival at Mabo, the North West Cape of New-Guinea. A Description of it. Cockle-Island. Cockles of seventy-eight Pound Weight. Pidgeon-Island. The Wind hereabouts. An empty Cockle-shell weighing two hundred fifty-eight Pound. King William's Island. A Description of it. Plying on the Coast of New-Guinea. Fault of the Draughts. Providence Island. They cross the Line. A Snake pursued by Fish. Squally Island. The Main of New-Guinea. CHAP. IV The main Land of New-Guinea. Its Inhabitants. Slfngers Bar. Small Islands. Garret Dennis Isle described. Its Inhabitants. Their Proes. Anthony Cave's Island. Its Inhabitants. Trees full of Worms found in the Sea. St. John's Island. The main Land of New-Guinea. Its Inhabitants. The Coast described. Cape and Bay St. George. Cape Orford. Another Bay. The Inhabitants there. A large Account of the Author's Attempts to trade with thent He names the Place Port Mountague. The Country thereabouts described, and its Produce. A Burn- ing Island described. A new Passage found. Nova Britannia. Sir George Rook's Island. Long Island and Crown Island, discovered and described. Sir R. Rich's Island. A Burning Island. A strange Spout. A Conjecture concerning a new Passage Southward. King William's Island. Strange Whirl- pools. Distance between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George computed. 454 THE CONTENTS CHAP. V he A/s Return from the Coast of New-Guinea. A deep Channel. Strange Tides. The Island Ceram described. Strange Fowls. The Islands Bonao, Bouro, Misacombi, Pentare, Laubana, and Potoro. The Passage between Pentare and Laubana. The Island Timor. Babao Bay. The Island Rotee. More Islands than are commonly laid down in the Draughts. Great Currents. Whales. Coast of New-Holland. The Tryal-Rocks. The Coast of Java. Princes Isle. Streights of Sunda. Thwart-the- way Island. Indian Proes, and their Traffick. Passage through the Streight. Arrival at Batavia. CHAP. VI *hc A. continues in Batavia-Road to refit, and to get Provisions. English Ships then in the Road. Departure from Batavia. Touch at the Cape of Good Hope. And at St. Helena. Arrival at the Island of Ascension. A Leak Sprung. Which being impossible to be stopped, the Ship is lost, but the Men saved. They find Water upon the Island : And are brought back to England. 455 DAMPIER'S VOYAGES VOL. III. PART II. CHAP. I I A't Dtparlurtfrsm iht Ceait of Nnv Holland, %vilh tht Reasont »/ it. It^alfT-Snaitu Tht A.U Arrival at the Is/and Timor. Starth ftr frnh IVairr en tht Soulh-fide of the lilend, in vain. FamJt if tht CharU. The liland Riltt. A Pauagt heiween tht ItJamdi Timtr and Anabaa. Fault of tht Chartu A Dutch Fort, lalUd Ctnttrdia. Thrir Suifiicitn of tht A. Tht Island Anabae dturiM. The A.'i Parly with tht Govtrnour of the Dutch Fori. Thty, with gftat Difficulty, obtain Itavt to wattr. Cepang Bay. Coatting along the Ntrth-tidt of Timor. Thry find IVatrr and an Amluring-flafr. A Dncriptien of a tmall Island, srvtn Ltaguts Emit from the IVatrring Bay. Lafihao Bay. How the A. mai Irmti^ hj tht Portugueze thert. Dtiigns of making further Starchti Mfan and ahoul tht Iilaad. Port Srsial. Return to Bmho* in Cofaitg Bay. The A.'s Fnttrlainmrnt at the Fort of ' Cncvrdia. Hit Stay leven tVieit at Baiat. kHAD spent about 5 Weeks in ranging off and on an. the Coast of New-Holland, a length of about 30O "^ Leagues: and had put in at 3 several Places, to sec what there tnight be thereabouts worth discovering ; It the same Time to recruit ray Stock of fresh Water Pmvisions for the further Discoveries I purposed to -iifc.Tipt on the Terra Auatralis. This large and hitherto almost unknown Tract of Land is situated so very advan- musly in the richest Climates of the World, the Torrid Temperate Zones; having in it especially all the Hvmtagcs of the I'onid Zone, as being known to reach 457 NEW HOLLAND neccs^tated to go Eastward by the Cape of Good ope ; and when I should be past it, 'twas requisite I ' iDuld keep in a pretty high Latitude, to avoid the ■ai Trade-winds that would be against me, and to have ■ Benefit of the variable Winds: By all which I was in danncr unavoidably dctermin'd to fall in first with those of New Holland I have hitherto been describing, r should it be ask'd why at my first making that Shore, jdid not coast it to the Southward, and that way try to I round to the East of New Holland and New Guinea ; nnfcss I was not for spending my Time more than was in the higher Latitudes; as knowing that the ind there could not be so well worth the discovering, as '. Parts that lay nearer the Line, and more directly under E Sun. Besides, at the Time when I should come first New Holland, which was early in the Spring, I must, I I stood Southward, have had for some Time a great mi of Winter-weather, increasing in Severity, though not I Time, and in a Place altogether unknown ; which my , who were heartless enough to the Voyage at best, uld never have born, after so long a Run as from Brazil For these Reasons therefore I chose to coast along to the Northward, and so to the East, and so thought to come round by the South of Terra Australis in my Return back, which should be in the Summer-season there : And this Panagc back also I now thought I might possibly be able to shorten, should it appear, at my getting to the East Cfast of New Guinea, that there is a Channel there coming ■ut into these Seas, as I now suspected near Rosemary Uland : Unless the high Tides and great Indraught there- about should be occasion'd by the Mouth of some large River ; which hath often low Lands on each Side of its Outlet, and many Islands and Sholes lying at its Entrance. But I rather thought it a Channel or Strcight, than a River : And I was afterwards confirmed in this Opinion, when by coasting New Guinea, I found that other Parts of this great Tract of Terra Australis, which had hitherto been represented u the Shore of a Continent, were cenainly 459 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Islands; and 'tis probably the same with New Holland: 1699 Though for Reasons I shall afterwards shew, I could not return by the way I proposM to my self, to fix the Dis- covery. All that I had now seen from the Latitude of 27 d. South to 25, which is Shark's Bay; and again from thence to Rosemary Islands, and about the Latitude of 20; seems to be nothing but Ranges of pretty large Islands against the Sea, whatever might be behind them to die Eastward, whether Sea or Land, Continent or Islands. But to proceed with my Voyage. Though the Lmd I had seen as yet, was not very inviting, being but bantn towards the Sea, and affording me neither fresh Water, nor any great Store of other Refreshments, nor so much as a fit Place for careening; yet I stood out to Sea again widi Thoughts of coasting still along Shore (as near as I could) to the North Eastward, for the further Discovery of it: Perswading my self, that at least the Place I anchored at in my Voyage round the World, in the Latitude of 16 dcg. 1 5 min. from which I was not now far distant, would not fail to afford me sweet Water upon digging, as it did then; for the brackish Water I had taken in here, though it serv'd tolerably well for boiling, was yet not very wholsomc. With these Intentions I put to Sea on the 5th of Sep- tember 1699, with a gentle Gale, sounding all the way; but was quickly induced to alter my Design. For I had not been out above a Day, but I found that the Sholcs among which I was engaged all the while on the Coast, and was like to be engaged in, would make it a very tedious Thing to sail along by the Shore, or to put in where I might have occasion. I therefore edged farther oflF to Sea, and so deepned the Water from 11 to 32 Fathom. The next Day, being September the 6th, we could but just discern the Land, though we had then no more than about 30 Fathom, uncertain Soundings ; For even while we were out of Sight of Land, we had once but 7 Fathom, and had also great and uncertain Tides whirling about, that made me afraid to go near a Coast so shallow, where we might be soon a-ground, and yet have but little Wind to bring us ofF: For should a Ship be near a Shoal, she might be 460 WATER SNAKES "d upon it unavoidably by a strong Tide, unless there lid be a good Wind to work her and keep her ofF. '^ IS also on the 7th Day wc saw no Land, though our :cr dccreas'd again to 26 Fathom : for we had deepned B I said, 10 30. This Day wc saw two Water-snakes, different in Shape auch as we had formerly seen. The one was very though long ; the other long and as big as a Man's having a red Head ; which I never saw any have, lire or since. Wc had this Day, Lat. 16 d. 9 m. by ition. I WM by this Time got to the North of the Place I had ight to have put in at, where I dug Wells in my aer Voj-agc; and though I knew by the Experience I of it then, that there was a deep Entrance in thither a the Eastward ; yet by the Shoals I had hitherto found IT Mretcht on this Coast, 1 was afraid I should have the E Trouble to coast all along afterwards beyond that c: And besides the Danger of running almost con- ally imongst Shoals on a strange Shore, and where the a were strong and high ; I began to bethink my self, I great Part of my Time must have been spent in P about a Shore I was already almost weary off, which I I employ with greater Satisfaction to my Mind, and T Hopes of Success in going forward to New Guinea, to this the particular Danger I should have been in I a Lee-Shore, such as is here dcscrib'd, when the North- t Monsoon should once come in ; the ordinary Season 'htch was not now far off^, though this Year it staid the common Season ; and it comes on storming at with Tornadoes, violent Gusts, &c. Wherefore ing the Thoughts of putting in again at New Holland, lolv'd to steer away for the Island Timor; where, les getting fresh Water, I might probably expect to furnished with Fruits, and other Refreshments to re- [ my Men, who began to droop; some of them being idy to my great Grief, afBicted with the Scurvy, which likely to increase upon them and disable them, and was inotcd by the brackish Water they took in last for ♦61 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AH. boiling their Oatmeal. Twas now also towards the latter *^ end of the dry Season ; when 1 might not probably have found Water so plentifully upon digging at that Part of New Holland, as when 1 was there before in the wet Season. And then, considering the Time also that I must necessarily spend in getting in to the Shore, through such Sholes as I expected to meet with ; or in gcnng aboot to avoid them; and in digging of Wells when I should come thither: I might very well hope to get to Timor, and find Aresh Water there, as soon as I could expctX to get it at New Holland; and with less Trouble ind Danger. On the 8th of September theref(»-e, shaping our Course for Timor, we were in Lat. 15 d. 37 m. We had 26 Fathom, coarse Sand ; and we saw one Whale. We found them lying most commonly near the Shore, or in Shoil Water. Thb Day we also saw some small white Clouds; the first that we had seen since we came out of Shark's Bay. This was one Sign of the Approach of the N(»th- North-West Monsoon. Another Sign was the shifting of the Winds; for from the Time of our coming to our last Anchoring place, the Sea-Breezes which before were Easterly and very strong, had been whiffling about tnd changing gradually from the East to the North, and thcna to the West, blowing but faintly, and now hanging mostly in some Point of the West. This Day the Winds were at South-West by West, blowing very faint ; and the 9th Day we had the Wind at Nort^-West by North, but then pretty fresh ; and we saw the Clouds rising more and thicker in the North-West. This Night at 1 2 we lay by for a small low sandy Island, which I reckoned my self not far from. The next Morning at Sun-rising we saw it from the Top-mast-head, right a-head of us ; and at Noon were up within a Mile of it : When, by a good Observation, I found it to lye in 13 d. 55 m. I have mentioned it in my first Vol. pag. 450, but my Account then made it to lye m 13 d. 50 m. We had Abundance of Boobies and Man of War Birds flying about us all the Day ; especially when wc came near the Island ; which had also Abundance of them 462 THE ISLAND TIMOR m it ; though it was but a little Spot of Sand, scarce a an. I Ic round. '^1 I did not anchor here, nor send my Boat ashore ; there Kg no appearance of getting any Thing on that Spot of id, besides Birds that were good for little : Though had ot been in haste, I would have taken some of them. So nadc the best of my way to Timor; and on the nth the Afternoon we saw lO small Land-birds, about the pess of Larks, that flew away North West. The 13th saw a great many Sea-snakes. One of these, of which iw great Numbers and Variety in this Voyage, was large, 1 bII black: I never saw such another for his Colour. Wc had now had for some Days small Gales, from the mh-Souih-West to the North-North-West, and the Sky U more cloudy especially in the Mornings and Evenings. K 14th it look'd very black in the North-West all the ly; and a little before Sun-set we saw, to our great Joy, S Tops of the high Mountains of Timor, peeping out of ) Clouds, which had before covered them, as they did U the lower Parts. Wc were now running directly towards the Middle of B Uland, on the South-side : But I was in some doubt lethcr I should run down along Shore on this South-side .5 the East-end ; or pass about the West-end, and so along on the North-side, and go that way towards East-end : But as the Winds were now Westerly, 1 lUght it best to keep on the South-side, till I should see ¥ the Weather would prove ; For, as the Island lies, if Westerly Winds continued and grew tempestuous, I luld be under the Lee of it, and have smooth Water, i so could go along Shore more safely and easily on this (oth-sidc: I could sooner also run to the East -end, where iTt is the best Shelter, as being still more under the Lee the Island when those Winds blow. Or if, on the other le, the Winds should conic about again to the Eastward, could but turn back again (as I did afterwards) ; and Ming about the West-end, could there prosecute my arch on the North-side of the Island for Water, or ihabttants, or a good Harbour, or whatever might be +63 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. useful to me. For both Sides of the Island were hitherto >699 alike to me, being wholly unacquainted here ; only as I hid seen it at a Distance in my former Voyage. [See Vol. L pag. 450.] I had heard also, that there were both Dutch and Portugueze Settlements on this Island ; but whereabouts, I knew not : However, I was resolved to search about till I found, either one of these Settlements, or Water in some other place. It was now almost Night, and I did not care to run near the Land in the dark, but clapt on a Wind, and stood off and on till the next Morning, being September 15th, when I steered in for the Island, which now appeared very plain, being high, double and treble Land, very remarkable, on whatever Side you view it. A Sight of it in 2 Partt^ Table V. [omitted]. At 3 in the Afternoon we anchored in 14 Fathom, soft black oasy Ground, about a Mile from the Shore. See 2 Sights more of the Coast, in Tabic V. [omitted], and the Island it self in the Particular Mip; which I have here inserted, to shew the Course of the Voyage from hence to the Eastward ; as the General Map, set before the Title Vol. III. Par. I. shews the Course of the whole Voyage. But in making the Particular Map, I chose to begin only with Timor, that I might not, by extending it too far, be forced to contract the Scale too much among the Islands, &c. of the New Guinea Coast; which I chiefly designed it for. The Land by the Sea, on this South-side, is low and sandy, and full of tall Streight-bodied Trees like Fines, for about 200 Yards inwards from the Shore. Beyond that, further in towards the Mountains, for a Breadth of about 3 Miles more or less, there is a Tract of swampy Mangrovy Land, which runs all along between the sandy Land of the Shore on one Side of it, and the Feet of the Mountains on the other. And this low Mangrovy Land is overflown every Tide of Flood, by the Water that flows into it through several Mouths or Openings in the outer sandy Skirt against the Sea. We came to an Anchor right against one of these Openings ; and presently I went in my 464 •S' THE ISLAND TIMOR t to search for fresh Water, or get Speech of the ivcs ; for we saw Smoaks, Houses, and Plantations '^ j inst [he Sides of the Mountains, not far from us. It cbtnng Water before we got ashore, though the Water still high enough to float us in without any great table. After we were within the Mouth, we found a |e Salt-Watcr Lake, which we hoped might bring us through the Mangroves to the fast Land : But before went further. I went ashore on the sandy Land by the ide, and look'd about me ; but saw there no Sign of Water. Within the sandy Bank, the Water forms : Lake : Going therefore into the Boat again, we up the Lake towards the firm Land, where no doubt was fresh Water, could we come at it. We found jy Branches of the Lake entring within the Mangrove td, but not beyond it. Of these we left some on the ht-hand, and some on the Left, still keeping in the rest Channel ; which still grew smaller, and at last so row, that we could go no farther, ending among the imp« and Mangroves, Wc were then within a Mile lome Houses of the Indian Inhabitants, and the firm id by the Sides of the Hills ; But the Mangroves thus IfMng our way, we return 'd as we came : But it was Mt dark before wc rcach'd the Mouth of the Creek. ns with much ado that we got out of it again ; for it now low Water, and there went a rough short Sea the Bar; which, however, wc past over without any liage, and went aboard. The next Morning at five wc weighed, and stood along •c to the Kastward, making use of the Sea and Land- xci. Wc found the Sea-Breezes here from the S. S. E. & S. W, the Ijnd-Brcczcs from the N. to the N. E. coasted along about 20 Leagues, and found it all a tahty bold, even Shore, without Points, Creeks or C5 for I Ship: And there is no anchoring till within Rie or ft Mile and an half of the Shore. Wc saw scarce Opening fit for our Boats; and the fast Land was stilt icmdo'd with Mangroves: So that here was no hope to Water ; nor wis it likely that there should be hcre- OL. tl. 465 2 U CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. abouts any European Settlement, since there was no Sign *^ of a Harbour. The Land appeared pleasant enough to the Eye: For the Sides and Tops of the Mountains were cloath'd with Woods mix'd with Savannahs ; and there was a Plantation of the Indian Natives, where we saw the Coco-Nuts growing, and could have been glad to have come at some of them. In the Draught I had with me, a Shoal was laid down hereabouts; but I saw nothing of it, going, or coming; and so have taken no Notice of it in my Map. Weary of running thus fruitlessly along the South-«de of the Island to the Eastward, I resolv'd to return the way I came ; and compassing the West-end of the Island, make a search along the North-side of it. The rather, because the North-North-West Monsoon, which I hid designed to be sheltered from by coming the way I did, did not seem to be near at Hand, as the ordinary Season of them required ; but on the contrary I found the Winds returning again to the South-Eastward ; and the Weather was fair, and seemM likely to hold so; and consequendy the North-North- West Monsoon was not like to come in yet. I considered therefore that by going to the North- side of the Island, I should there have the smooth Water, as being the Lee-side as the Winds now were ; and hoped to have better riding at Anchor or Landing on that Sde, than I could expect here, where the Shore was so lined with Mangroves. Accordingly, the i8th about Noon I altered my Course, and steered back again towards the South- West-end of the Island. This Day we struck a Dolphin ; and the next Day saw two more, but struck none : We also saw a Whale. In the Evening we saw the Island Rotee,^ and another Island to the South of it, not seen in my Map ; both lying near the South- West-end of Timor. On both these Islands we saw Smoaks by Day, and Fires by Night, as we had seen on Timor ever since we fell in with it. I was told » Rotti, 466 THE ISLAND TIMOR erw»rds by ihe Portugucze, that they had Sugar-works am.1 the Island Rotcc ; but 1 knew nothing of that now; '*99 the Coast appearing generally dry and barren, only e and there a Spot of Trees, I did not attempt anchoring re, hut stood over again to the Timor Coast. September the 2ist, in the Morning, being near Timor, iW a pretty large Opening, which immediately I entered h my Ship, sounding as I went in : But had no Ground I came within the East Point of the Mouth of the ening, where 1 anchored in 9 Fathom, a League from Shore. The distance from the East-side to the West- : of this Opening, was about 5 Leagues. But whereas lought this was only an Inlet or large Sound that ran It way into the Island Timor, 1 found afterwards that was a Passage between the West End of Timor and other small Island called Anamabao or Anabao : ' Into bich Mistake I was led by my Sea-Chart, which repre- Bied both Sides of the Opening as Parts of the same Hst, and called all of it Timor: See all this rectified, d s View of the whole Passage, as I found it, in a smalt bip I have made of it. {Table omitted.] I designed 10 sail into this Opening till I should come 6rni und ; for the Shore was all set thick with Man- OVcs here by the Sea, on each Side ; which were very ten, as were also other Trees more within Land. We id now but little Wind ; therefore 1 sent my Boat away, sound, and to let me know by Signs what Depth of '•tcr they met with, if under 8 Fathom ; but if more, I dcr'd them to go on, and make no Signs. At 1 1 that [oming, having a preiiy fresh Gale, I weighed, and made il *fta my Boat ; but cdg'd over more to the West because I saw many smaller Openings there, and was Hopes to find a good Harbour where 1 might secure F Ship; for then I could with more Safety send my Boats icck for fresh Water. I had not sailed far before the Ind came to the South-East and blew so strong, that I bid not with Safety venture nearer that Side, it being a ' +67"' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Lee-shore. Besides, my Boat was on the East-^de of the 1699 Timor Coast ; for the other was, as I found afterwards, the Anabao Shore ; and the great Opening I was now in, wis the Streight between that Island and Timcn*; towards which I now tack*d and stood over. Taking up my Boit therefore, I ran under the Timor Side, and at 3 a Qosk anchored in 29 Fathom, half a Mile from the Shore. That Part of the South-West Point of Timor, where we anchored in the Morning, bore now South by West, distance 3 Leagues: And another Point of the Island bore North- North-East, distance 2 Leagues. Not long after, we saw a Sloop coming about the Pobt last mentioned, with Dutch Colours ; which I found, upoo sending my Boat aboard, belonged to a Dutch Fort (the only one they have in Timor) about 5 Leagues from hence, caird Concordia. The Governour of the Fort was m the Sloop, and about 40 Soldiers with him. He appeared to be somewhat surprised at our coming this way ; which it seems is a Passage scarce known to any but themselves ; as be told the Men I sent to him in my Boat. Neither did be seem willing that we should come near their Fort for Water. He said also, that he did not know of any Water on all that Part of the Island, but only at the Fort; and that the Natives would kill us, if they met us ashore. By the small Arms my Men carried with them in the Boat, they took us to be Pirates, and would not easily believe the Account my Men gave them of what we were, and whence we came. They said that about 2 Years before this, there had been a stout Ship of French Pirates here; and that after having been suffered to Water, and to refresh themselves, and been kindly used, they had on a sudden gone among the Indians, Subjects of the Fort, and piundcr'd them and burnt their Houses. And the Portugueze here told us afterwards, that those Pirates, whom they also had entertained, had burnt their Houses, and had taken the Dutch Fort (though the Dutch car*d not to own so much), and had driven the Governour and Factory among the wild Indians their Enemies. The Dutch told my Men further, that they could not but think we had of several 468 THE ISLAND ANABAO itions (as is usual with Pirate Vessels) in our Ship, and trticularly some Dutch Men, though all the Discourse ' i in French ; (for I had not one who could speak Itch :) Or else, since the common Draughts make no issage between Timor and Anabao, but lay down both as le Island; they said they suspected we had plundered x Dutch Ship of their particular Draughts, which they forbid to part with. With these Jealousies the Sloop returned towards their t, and my Boat came back with this News to me : But ta not discouraged at this News; not doubting but I lould perswade them better, when 1 should come to talk Kh them. So the next Morning I weighed, and stood rmnis the Fort. The Winds were somewhat against us, that wc could not go very fast, being obliged to tack 2 3 Times. And coming near the farther End of the je between Timor and Anabao, we saw many Houses cadi Side not far from the Sea, and several Boats lying the Shore. The Land on both Sides was pretty high, rpearir^ very dry and of a reddish Colour, but highest on Timor Side. The Trees on either Side were but small. Woods thin, and in many Places the Trees were dry Id withered. The Ishiui Anamabao or Anabao, is not very big, not Iceeding lO Leagues in length, and 4 in Breadth ; yet it Z Kingdoms in it, viz, that of Anamabao on the East- towardx Timor, and the North-East-end ; and that of which contains the South-West-cnd and the West- le of the Island ; but I know not which of them is biggest. be Natives of l)oth are of the Indian kind, of a swarthy Opper-colour, with black lank Hair. Those of Anamabao c in League with the Dutch, as these afterwards told me, id with the Natives of the Kingdom of Copang in Timor, ■against them, in which the Dutch Fort Concordia lads: But they are said to be inveterate Enemies to their c^hboun of Anabao. Those of Anabao, besides manag- thdr small Plantations of Roots and a few Coco-nuts, fish, strike Turtle, and hunt Buffalo's; killing them ith Swords, Darts, or Lances. But 1 know not how they 469 y A CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. get their Iron ; I suppose, by Traffick with the Dutch or 1699 Portugueze, who send now and then a Sloop and trade thither, but well-arm'd ; for the Natives would kill them, could they surprize them. They go always armed them- selves; And when they go a fishing or a hunting, they spend 4 or 5 Days or more in ranging about, before thcj return to their Habitation. We often saw them, after this, at these Employments ; but they would not come near us. The Fish or Flesh that they take, besides what serves for present spending, they dry on a Barbacue or wooden Grate, standing pretty high over the Fire, and so carry it home when they return. We came sometimes afterwards to the Places where they had Meat thus a drying, but did not touch any of it. But to proceed ; I did not think to stop any where till I came near the Fort ; which yet I did not see : But coming to the End of this Passage, I found that if I went any farther I should be open again to the Sea. I therefofe stood in close to the Shore on the East-side, and anchored in 4 Fathom Water, sandy Ground ; a Point of Land soil hindring me from seeing the Fort. But I sent my Boat to look about for it ; and in a short Time she returned, and my Men told me they saw the Fort, but did not go near it ; and that it was not above 4 or 5 Miles from hence. It being now late, I would not send my Boat thither till the next Morning: Mean while about 2 or 300 Ind'uns, Neighbours of the Fort, and sent probably from thence, came to the sandy Bay just against the Ship ; where they staid all Night, and made good Fires. They were armed with Lances, Swords and Targets, and made a great NcMse all the Night : We thought it was to scare us from landing, should we attempt it: But we took little Notice of them. The next Morning, being September the 23d, I sent my Clerk ashore in my Pinnace to the Governour, to satisfy him that we were English Men, and in the King's Ship, and to ask Water of him ; sending a young Man with him, who spake French. My Clerk was with the Govcmoar pretty early ; and in Answer to his Queries about me, and my Business in these Parts, told him that I had the King 470 PARLEY WITH THE DUTCH England's Commission, and desired to speak with him. : bcckncd to my Clerk to come ashore ; but as soon as ' saw some small Arms in the Stern-Sheets of the Boat, commanded him into the Boat again, and would have n be gone. My Clerk sollicited him that he would allow n to speak with him ; and at last the Governour consented It he should come ashore ; and sent his Lieutenant and 3 U'chants, with a Guard of about a hundred of the Native iians to receive him. My Clerk said that we were in ich want of Water, and hop'd they wou'd allow us to DC to their Watering-place, and fill. But the Governour liied, that he had Orders not to supply any Ships but :ir own East-India Company; neither must they allow J Europeans to come the Way that we came ; and wondred m we durst come near their Fort. My Clerk answered m, that had we been Enemies, we must have come ashore long them for Water : But, said the Governour, you are Hne to inspect into our Trade and Strength ; and I will VK jfou therefore be gone with all Speed. My Clerk isweml him, that I had no such Design, but, without Mntng nearer them, would be contented if the Governour lid send Water on Board where we lay, about 2 Leagues tn the Kort ; and that I would make any reasonable Satis- aon for it. The Governour said that we should have It Water we wanted, provided we came no nearer with ^p : And ordered, that as soon as we pleased, we should d our Boat full of empty Casks, and come to an Anchor h it off the Fort, till he sent Slaves to bring the Casks hore, and fill them ; for that none of our Men must come ion. The same Afternoon i sent up my Boat as he had with an Officer, and a present of some Beer for lOur; which he would not accept of; but sent a Ton of Water. the 24th in the Morning 1 sent the same Officer I my Boat; and about Noon the Boat returned in with the two principal Merchants of the Factory, I the Lieutenant of the Fort ; for whole Security they t my Officer and one of my Boat's-crew as Hostages, liog them to the Governour's Garden all the Time: 47» Spang bay in the i. timor omising this way, I did not doubt finding Water in a on Time. But my Officer who occasion'd these Fears ' us by his own Forgeries, was himself for going no irthcr; having a Mind, as far as I could perceive, to kc every Thing in the Voyage, to which he shew'd nself averse, seem as cross and discouraging to my Men i possible, that he might hasten our Return ; being very Igligent and backward in most Businesses I had occasion B employ him in; doing nothing well or willingly, though did all I could to win him to it. He was also industrious I stir up the Sea-men to Mutiny; telling them, among Tier Things, that any Dutch Ship might lawfully take . in these Seas; but I knew better, and avoided every htng that could give just Offence. ' The rest of my Officers therefore being resolved to go from hence, and having bought same Fish of some Anama- beans, who, seeing our Ship, came purposely to sell some, pusing to ami fro every Day; I sail'd away on the 26th about 5 in the Afternoon, We pass'd along between a ^unall low sandy Island (over against the Fort), full of Bays ^KkI pretty high Trees; sounding as wc went along; and ^^Md from 25 to 35 Fathom, oasy Ground. See the little PVibp of this Passage, Table VI. [omitted]. ' The 27th in the Morning we anchored in the Middle of the Bay, called Copang' Bay, in 12 Fathom, soft Oaxe, about 4 Leagues above the Dutch Fort. Their Sloop was riding by the Fort, and in the Night fired a Gun ; but for what Reason I know not : and the Governor said after- wards, 'twas the Skipper's own doing, without his Order. Proently after wc had anchored, I went in the Pinnace to icarch about the Bay for Water, but found none. Then, returning a-boartl, I weighed, and ran down to the North- l\ntrancc of the Bay, and at 7 in the Evening anchored jgiin, in 37 Fathom, soft Oaze, close by the sandy Island, and about 4 Leagues from the Dutch Fort. The 2Sth I sent both my Boats ashore on the sandy Island, to cut Wood ; and by Noon they both came back laden. In the 473 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. Afternoon I sent my Pinnace ashore on the North G)ast *^ or Point of Copang Bay, which is call'd Babao. Late in the Night they returned, and told me that they saw great Tracks of Bufialo's there, but none of the Bufl^lo*s them- selves ; neither did they find any fresh Water. They also saw some green Turtle in the Sea, and one Alligator. The 29th I went out of Copang Bay, designing to Coast it along Shore on the North-side of Timor to the Eastward ; as well to seek for Water, as also to acquaint my self with the Island, and to search for the Portugueze Settlements; which we were informed were about forty Leagues to the Eastward of this Place. We coasted along Shore with Land and Sea-Breezei The Land by the Shore was of a moderate height, with high and very remarkable Hills farther within the Country; their Sides all spotted with Woods and Savannahs. But these on the Mountain Sides appeared of a rusty Colour not so pleasant and flourishing as those that we saw on the South-side of the Island ; for the Trees seemed to be small and withering ; and the Grass in the Savannahs also look*d dry, as if it wanted Moisture. But in the Valleys, and by the Sea-side, the Trees look'd here also more green. Yet we saw no good Anchoring-place, or Opening, that gave us any Incouragement to put in; till the 30th Day in the Afternoon. We were then running along Shore, at about 4 Leagues distance, with a moderate Sea-breeze ; when we opened a pretty deep Bay, which appeared to be a good Road to anchor in. There were two large Valleys, and one smaller one, which descending from the Mountains came all into one Valley by the Sea-side against this Bay, which was full of tall green Trees. 1 presently stood in with the Ship, till within two Leagues of the Shore ; and then sent in my Pinnace commanded by my chief Mate, whose great Care, Fidelity, and Diligence, I was well assured of; ordering him to seek for fresh Water; and if he found any, to sound the Bay, and bring me Word what anchoring there was ; and to make haste aboard. As soon as they were gone, I stood off a little, and lay 474 fTHE ISLAND TIMOR _hiy was now far spent; and ihcreforc it was an, ifore they got ashore with the Boat ; so that they did ^^ 'tnc aboard again that Night. Which 1 was much n*d at; because in the Evening, when the Sea-Breezc Mc and the Weather calm, 1 perceived the Ship to back again to the Westward. I was not yet ac- ed with the Tides here ; for I had hitherto met with otig Tides about the Island, and scarce any running :rcani, to set me along Shore either way. But after Iroe, I had pretty much of them ; and found at t the Flood set to the Eastward, and the Ebb to the rard. The Ehb (with which I was now carried) sets rang, and runs 8 or 9 Hours. The Flood runs but and at most lasts not above 4 Hours; and this too is 'cd only near ihe Shore ; where checking the Ebb, it the Seas, and makes the Water rise in the Bays and 8 or 9 Foot. I was afterwards credibly informed ic Portuguezc, that the Current runs always to the -ard in the Mid-Channel between this Island and that face 11 in a Range to the North of it, viz. Dmba (or Omba)' Pintare,* Laubana,' Ende,' &c. c were driven 4 Leagues back again, and took par- Notice of a Point of Land that looked like Flam- ;h-hcad, when we were cither to the East or West and near the Shore it appeared like an Island. Four .«agucs to the East of this Point, is another very cable bluff Point, which is on the West-side of the It my Boat was In. See two Sights of this Land, VI. [omitted]. We could not stem the Tide, till ' 3 I Clock in the Afternoon ; when the Tide running a, we soon got abreast of the Bay, and then saw a Island to the F^astward of us. See a Sight of it, VI. [omitted]. About 6 we anchored in the Bottom Bay. in 15 Fathom, soft Oazc, half a Mite from the made many ^Ise Fires in the Night, and now and red a Gun, that my Boat might find me ; but to no * Panur. * Not Andonare, but Floro. 475 CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Purpose. In the Morning I found my sdf driven again by *^ the Tide of Ebb 3 or 4 Leagues to the Westward of the Place where I left my Boat. I had several Men looking out for her : but could not get a Sight of her : Besides, I con- tinued still driving to the Westward ; for we had but litdc Wind, and that against us. But by 10 a Clock in the Morning we had the Comfort of seeing the Boat ; and at 1 1 she came aboard, bringing 2 Barrecoes ^ of very good Water. The Mate told me there was good Anchoring close by the Watering-place; but that there ran a strong Tide, which near the Shore made several Races; so that they found much Danger in getting ashore, and were afraid to come off again in the Night, because of the Riplings the Tide made. We had now the Sea-breeze, and steered away for this Bay ; but could hardly stemm the Tide, till about 3 in the Afternoon ; when the Tide being turned with us, we went along briskly, and about 6 anchored in the Bay, in 25 Fathom, soft Oaze, half a Mile from the Shore. The next Morning I went ashore to fill Water, and before Night sent aboard 8 Tons. We fiUM it out of a large Pond within 50 Paces of the Sea. It look*d pale, but was very good, and boiled Pease well. I saw the Tract of an Alligator here. Not far from the Pond, we found the Rudder of a Malayan Proe, 3 great Jars in a small Shed set up against a Tree, and a Barbacue whereon there had been Fish and Flesh of Buffaloes drest, the Bones lying but a little from it. In 3 Days we fill'd about twenty six Tun of Water, and then had on Board about 30 Ton in all. The 2 following Days we spent in Fishing with the Saine, and the first Morning caught as many as served all my Ship's Company: But afterwards we had not so good Success. The rest of my Men, which could be spared from the Ship, I sent out ; Some with the Carpenter's Mate, to cut Timber for my Boats, &c. These went always guarded with 3 or ^ *' Breakers ^ or small casks. 476 ^^" THE ISLAND TIMOR 4 armed Men to secure them : I shewed ihcm what Wood an. was fitting to cut for our Use, especially the Calabash and '^ l4aho; I shewed them also the manner of stripping the M tfaho-bark, and of making therewith Thread, Twine, Ropes, I Others were sent out a Fowling ; who brought Home ^ idgeona. Parrots, Cockatoos, &c. 1 was always with one Ihrty or other, my self; especially with the Carpenters, to taten them to get what they could, that we might be gone om hence. J Our Water being full, I sail'd from hence October the I Pth about 4 in the Afternoon, designing to coast along M Shore to the Eastward, till I came to the Portugueze Settle- H menis. By the next Morning we were driven 3 or 4 H Leagues to the West of the Bay; but in the Afternoon, ■ having a faint Sea-breeze, we got again abreast of it. It I was the llth Day at Noon before we got as far as the I ■null Island before-mentioned, which lies about 7 Leagues ■ to the East of the Watering Bay : For what we gained in I the Afternoon by the Benefit of the Sea-breezes we lost I igain in the Evenings and Mornings, while it was calm, in I the Interval of the Breezes. But this Day the Sea-breeze I blowing fresher than ordinary, we past by the Island and I Inin before Night about 7 Leagues to the East of it. I ^L This Island is not half a Mile long, and not above 100 I ^Vardt in breadth, and look'd just like a Barn, when we I ^nrerc by it : It is pretty high, and may be seen from a I Ship's Topmast-head about 10 Leagues. The Top, and I Pan of the Sides, are covered with Trees, and it is about 3 I Leagues from Timor; 'tis about Mid-way between the M Watering-place and the Portugueze first and main Settle- I ment by the Shore. I In the Night we were again driven back toward the M Island, 3 Leagues: But the 12th Day, having a pretty H briik Sea-brcezc. we coasted along Shore ; and seeing a H great many Houses by the Sea, I stood in with my Ship till ■ I was within 2 Miles of them, and then sent in my Boat, I and lay by till it returned. I sent an Officer to command I ^^ Boat ; and a Portugueze Seaman that I brought from I Hpnzil, to speak with the Men that we saw on the Bay; I ■ 477 1 PARLEY WITH THE PORTUGUEZE But to proceed. While I staid here, 1 went ashore ry Day, and my Men took their Turns to go ashore and '^'1 Rck for what they had Occasion for; and were now all f well again: And to keep themselves in Heart, every n Wiught some Rice, more or less, to recruit them after former Fatigues. Besides, I order'd the Purser to buy te for them, lo serve them instead of Pease, which were f almost spent. I fill'd up my Water-Casks again here, cut more Wood ; and sent a Present to the Lieutenant, xis Mendosa, designing to be gone ; for while I lay :, we had some Tornadoes and Rain, and the Sky in the rth-Wcst looked very black Mornings and Evenings, li Lightning all Night from that Quarter ; which made Tcry uneasy and desirious to depart hence; because I Road lay expos'd to the North-North-West and North Inds, which were now daily ex[wcted, and which are Rionly so violent, that 'tis impossible for any Ship to them out : Yet, on the other Hand, it was absolutely 3*«ry for mc to spend about 2 Months Time longer in e Place hereabouts, before I could prosecute my Voyage (icr to the Eastward ; for Reasons which I shall give :kfta in its proiier Place in the ensuing Discourse. en therefore I sent the Present to the Governour, I red to have a Pilot to Larentucka on the Island Ende ; re I desir'd to spend the Time I had to spare. He ' sent me Word that he could not well do it, but Id wnd me a Letter to Port Scsiall for the Natives, I would come to me there and supply me with what rtnon they had. I fuid 3 Days, in hopes yet to get a Pilot for rentucka, or at least the Letter from the Governour Port Scsiall. But seeing neither, I sail'd from hence 22d of October, coasting to the Eastward, designing for ill); and before Night, was about lo Lc^ucs to the K of Laphao. I kept about 3 Leagues on Shore, and ' Boat ranged along close by the Shore, looking into ry Bay and Cove ; and at Night returned on Board. E next Morning, being 3 or 4 Leagues farther to the tward, I sent my Boat ashore again to 6nd Scsiall. At OL. II. 48) Z H BABAO One Reason, as I said before, of my coming ah. :r, was to ride secure, and lo clean my Ship's Bottom ; '*" ^also to endeavour by Fishing and Hunting of Buffaloes, Tcfresh my Men and save my salt Provision- It was to be some Time before I could clean my Ship, tise I wanted a great many Necessaries, especially a el to careen by. I had a Long-Boat in a Frame, that XHight out of England, by which I might have made lift to do it ; but my Carpenter was uncapable to set up. Besides, by that Time the Ship's-sides were t'd, my Pitch was almost spent; which was all owing r Carpenter's wilful Waste and Ignorance ; so that I lothing to lay on upon the Ship's Bottom. But i of this, I intended to make Lime here, which with ; made a good Coat for her. Indeed had it able, 1 would have gone in between Cross Island bor, and have hal'd my Ship ashore ; for there was p convenient Place to do it in ; but my Ship being * 1 did not dare to do it : Besides, I must have taken f thing out of her ; and I had neither Boats to get my hings ashore, nor Hands to look after them when they c there; for ray Men would have been all employed; , though here are no Indians living near, yet they come tthcr in Companies when Ships arc here, on Purpose to do Mischief they can to them ; and 'twas not above 2 m nncc a Portugueze Ship riding here, and sending r Boat for Water to one of the Galleys, the Men were 1 kilkd by the Indians. But to secure my Men I never igffcr'd them to go ashore unarmed ; and while some were at Work, others stood to guard ihem. We lay in this Place from October the 28th, till December the ijth. In which Time we made very good Lime with Shells, of which here are plenty. We cut Palmeto- leaves to burn the Ship's-sidcs; and giving her as good a Heel as we could, we burned her Sides, and pud * tiiem with Lime and Water for want of Oyl to mix ■ A* oppoMd to " full" So buill tluil bh« could noi be beached aiiboui (rest danfo to ber bendt. +83 THE DUTCH FORT CONCORDIA ^^^ with him ; so I took my Clerk and my Gunner, and an, vent ashore in my Pinnace : The Gunner spoke very good '^ French, and therefore I took him to be my Interpreter, ^M because the Governour speaks French : He was an honest ^| Man, and I found him always diligent and obedient. It ^| u pretty late in the Afternoon before we came ashore ; » that we had but httle Time with the Governour. He em'd to be much dissatisfied at the Report my Officer id made to me ; (of which I have before given an ^M &.ccount;) and said it was false, neither would he now ^H ake any Money of me; but told me 1 was welcome; as ^| indeed I found by what he provided. For there was plenty of very good Victuals, and well drcst ; and the Linncn was white and clean ; and all the Dishes and Plates, of Silver or fine China. I did not meet any where with a better Entcruinmcnt, while I was abroad; nor with so much : Decency and Order. Our Liquor was Wine, Beer, Toddy, or Water, which we liked best after Dinner. He shew'd Ue some Drawers full of Shells, which were the strangest Uid tno*i curious that I had ever seen. He told me, Ibefore I went away, that he could not supply me with aajr Naval Stores; but if I wanted any fresh Provision, he would supply me with what I had occasion for. I thank'd him, and told him I would send my Boat for some jats and Hogs, though afterwards on second Thoughts ', did not do it : For 'twas a great way from the Place where we lay, to the Fort ; and I could not tell what MiKhicf might befall any of my Men, when there, from the Natives; especially if incouragcd by the Dutch, who ! Enemies to all Europeans but such as arc under their 'n Government. Therefore I chose rather to fish and bunt for Provisions, than to be beholden to the Dutch, od pay dearly for it too. We found here, as I said before, Plenty of Game ; so lit all the Time we lay at this Place, we spent none or very htle of our Salt-provisions; having Fish or Fresh Bufliiloe [ Very Day. We lay here 7 Weeks; and although the IJorth-North-West Monsoon was every Day expected when I wu at Laphao, yet it was not come, so that if I had 485 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. prosecuted my Voyage to the Eastward without staying *^ here, it had been but to little Advantage. For if I had gone out, and beaten against the Wind a whole Month, I should not have got far; it may be 40, 50, or 60 Leagues ; which was but 24 Hours run for us with a krge Wind; besides the Trouble and Discontent, which might have arisen among my Men in beating to Windward to so little Purpose, there being nothing to be got at Sea; bat here we lived and did eat plentifully every Day without Trouble. The greatest Inconveniency of this Place, was want of Water; this being the latter Part of the dry Season, because the Monsoon was very late this Year. About 4 Days before we came away, we had Tornadoes, with Thunder, Lightning and Rain, and much Wind ; bat of no long Continuance; at which Time we filled some Water. We saw very black Clouds, and heard it thunder every Day for near a Month before, in the Mountains ; and saw it rain, but none came near us : And even where we hunted, we saw great Trees torn up by the Roots, and great Havock made among the Woods by the Wind ; yet none touched us. 486 CHAP. II ^rHnUr Dfurifilim of ihi Uiond Timer, lis Coait. Thi hlatid A»aka*. Fault of tht Draugha, Thr ClianntI bitwtot Timor and Anainv. Cfpang-hay. Fori Concordia, A particular de- Khplitn «f tht Buy. Tht Anchoring-place, tallrU Babaa. The Malayam htrt kill all the Eunpranf ihty tan. Lafhao^ a P^rtugutxt Srillement, denriied. Port Ciaalf. The Hillt, IValtr^ Itw-lamdi, S«il, t/^cods, Metalj, in ihe liland Timor. Its Trtes. Cana-fiilMie-trte deKrihtd. IVild Fig-lrm dncribed. Twe new wrf( 9/ Palm-ireft dmribed. The Fruits of the Island. The Her it, lis Land-Animals. Fowls. The Ringing Bird. Its Fish. Cotklt-merchanis and Opiers. Codies as big as a Man's Htad. Its original Natives described. The Porlugune and Dtilth Stultmenlt. The Malayan Language generally sfieien here. L'Oranttui tn the Island Endt. The Seasons^ IVinds, ana Weather Ml Tim»r. THE Island Timor, as I have said in my " Voyage round the World." is about seventy Leagues ' Itmg, and fourteen or sixteen broad. It lies nearly North-East and South-Wcst. The Middle of it lies in about 9 d. South Lat. It has no Navigable Rivers, nor many Harbours; but abundance of Bays, for Ships to ride in at some Seasons of the Year. The Shore is very bold, free from Roclcs, Shoals or Islands : excepting a few which are visible, and therefore easily avoided. On the South-«idc there is a Sholc laid down in jOur Draughts, about thirty Leagues from the South-West- end ;' I was fifteen or twenty Leagues further to the East .than that distance, but saw nothing of the Sholc -, neither could I find any Harbour. It is a pretty even Shore, with Sandy Bays and low Land for about three or four Miles ' The Ashmore Ke«f, 487 CAPTAIN DAMPIERS VOYAGES AX. up; amd then *ds mountainous. There is no Anchoring >^99 but within half a League or a League at farthest from ! the ^ore; and the low Land that bounds the Sea, hath nothing but red Mangroves, even from the Foot of the Mountains till you come within a hundred and fifty or two hundred paces of the Sea : and then you have Sandbanks, cloith^d with a sort of Fine; so that there is no getting Water on this ade, because of the Mangroves. At the South-West-cnd of Timor, is a pretty high Island, called Anabao. It is about ten or twelve Leagues long, and about four broad; near which the Dutch are settled. It lies so near Timor, that *tis laid down in our Draughts as part of that Island; yet we found a narrow deep Channel fit for any Ships to pass between them. This Channel is about ten Leagues long, and in some places not above a League wide. It runs North-east and South-Wcst, so deep that there is no Anchoring but very nigh the Shore. There is but little Tide ; the Flood setting North, and the Ebb to the Southward. At the North-East-cnd of this Channel, are two Points of Land, not above a League asunder; one on the South-side upon Timor, called Copang; the other on the North-side, upon the Island Anabao. From this last point, the Land trends away Northerly two or three L^igues, opens to the Sea, and then bends in again to the Westward. Being past these Points, you open a Bay of about eight Leagues long, and four wide. This Bay trends in on the South-side North-East by East from the South-point before mentioned; making many small Points or little Coves. About a League to the East of the said South-point, the Dutch have a small Stone Fort, situated on a firm Rock close by the Sea : This Fort they call Concordia. On the East-side of the Fort, there is a small River of fresh Water, which has a broad boarded Bridge over it, near to the Entry into the Fort. Beyond this River is a small sandy Bay, where the Boats and Barks land and convey their Traffick in or out of the Fort. About an hundred Yards from the Sea-side, and as many from the Fort, and forty Yards from the Bridge on the East-side, the Company have 488 THE ISLAND TIMOR DESCRIBED fine G»rdcn, surrounded with a good Stone-Wall ; In it plenty of all sorts of Sallads, Cabbages, Roots for the ttchen ; in some parts of it are Fruit-trees, as Jaca's, implcnosc. Oranges, sweet Lemons, &c. and by the ^alls arc Coco-nut and Toddy-trees in great plenty, aides these, they have Musk and Water-Melons, Pine- pplcs, Pomccitrons, Pomegranates, and other sorts of uits. Between this Garden and the River, there is a un for black Cattle, whereof they have plenty. Beyond B Companies Ground, the Natives have their Houses, in imbcr about fifty or sixty. There are forty or fifty lldiers belonging to this Fort, but I know not how many una they have ; for I had only opportunity to see one stion, which had in it four Guns. Within the Walls :re i« a neat little Church or Chapel. Beyond Concordia the Land runs about seven Leagues i the bottom of the Bay ; then it is not above a League a half from side to side, and the Land trends away rthcrly to the North-Shore, then turns about again to e Westward, making the South-side of the Bay. About rce I.£agucs and a half from the bottom of the Bay on is side, there is a small Island about a Musket-shot Dm the Shore ; and a RifF of Rocks that runs from it to e Eutward about a mile. On the West-side of the land is a Channel of three Fathom at low Water, of bich depth it is also within, where Ships may haul in and West from this Island the Land rounds away in Bite or Elbow, and at last ends in a low point of Land, kadi thoots forth a Ledge of Rocks a mile into the Sea, kich is dry at Low-Water. Just against the low Point of And, and to the West of the Ledge of Rocks, is another letty high and rocky, yet woody Island, about half a mile om the low Point; which Island hath a Ledge of corally ocks ninning-from it alt along to the other small Island, Dly leaving one Channel between them. Many of these ocks are to be seen at Low-Water, and there seldom is Pater enough for a Boat to go over ihem till quarter lood or more. Within this Ledge there is two or three ■thorn Water, and without it no less than ten or twelve 489 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. above nine Foot upon a Spring- tid e : But it made great 1699 Riplings and a roaring Noise ; whirling about like Whirl- pools. We had constantly eddy Tides under the Shore, made by the Points on each side of the Bay. When you go hence to the Eastward, you may pass between the small Island, and Timor ; and when you are five or six Leagues to the Eastward of the small Island, you will see a large Valley to the Eastward of you ; then running a little further, you may see Houses on the Bay : You may lufF in, but anchor not till you go about the next Point. Then you will see more Houses, where you may run into twenty or thirty Fathom, and anchor right against the Houses, nearest the West-end of them. This place is called Laphao. It is a Portuguese Settlement, about sixteen Leagues from the Watering-bay. There are in it about forty or fifty Houses, and one Church. The Houses are mean and low, the Walls generally made of Mud or watled, and their Sides made up with Boards: They are all thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto-Leaves. The Church also is very small: The East-end of it is boarded up to the Top ; but the Sides and the West-end are only boarded three or four foot high ; the rest is all open : There is a small Altar in it, with two Steps to go up to it, and an Image or two ; but all very mean. 'Tis also thatch'd with Palm or Palmeto- Leaves. Each House has a Yard belonging to it, fenced about with wild Canes nine or ten Foot high. There is a Well in each Yard, and a little Bucket with a String to it to draw Water withal. There is a Trunk of a Tree made hollow, placed in each Well, to keep the Earth froiu falling in. Round the Yards there are many Fruit-trees planted ; as Coco-nuts, Tamarins and Toddy-trees. They have a small Hovel by the Sea-side, where there are six small old Iron Guns standing on a decayed Plat- form, in rotten Carriages. Their Vents ^ are so big, that when they are fired, the strength of the Powder flying out there, they give but a small Report, like that of a * Touch-holes. 492 V TIMOR ^^^^ Musket. This is ihcir Court of Guard ; and here were a , few armed-men watching all the time wc lay here. ' The Inhabitants of the Town, are chiefly a sort of Indians, of a Copper-colour, with black lank Hair : They speak Portugueze, and are of the Romish Religion ; but they ukc the Liberty to eat Flesh when they please. They value themselves on the account of their Religion and descent from the Portugueze; and would be very angry, if a Man should say they are not Portugueze : Yet I saw but three White Men here, two of which were Padres. There are also a few Chinese living here. It is a place of pretty good Trade and Strength, the best on this Wand, Porta-Nova excepted. They have three or four small Barks belonging to the Place; with which they trade chiefly about the Island with the Natives, for Wax, Gold, and Sandall-wood. Sometimes they go to Batavia, and fetch European Commodities, Rice, &c. The Chinese trade hither from Macao ; and I was informed that about twenty Sail of small Vessels come from thence hither every Year. They bring coarse Rice, •duiterated Gold, Tea, Iron, and Iron-tools, Porcellane, Silks, &c. They take in exchange pure Gold, as 'tis githered in the Mountains, Bees-wax, Sandall-wood, Slaves, c. Sometimes also here comes a Ship from Goa. Ships that trade here, begin to come hither the latter-end of Mirch ; and none stay here longer than the latter-end of Aunist. For should they be here while the North- Nortb-Wcst Monsoon blows, no Cables nor Anchors would hold them ; but they would be driven ashore and dash'd in pieces presently. But from March till September, while the South-South- East Monsoon blows, Ships ride here very secure ; For then, though the Wind often blows hard, yet 'tis off Shore; so that there is very smtxjth Water, and no fear of being driven ashore; And yet even then ther moor with three Cables ; two towards the Land, Eastward and Westward ; and the third right off to Seaward. _^ At this is the second place of Traflick, so 'tis in ■Btrength the second place the Portugueze have here, though I 493 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Sea are overflown with Water ; and then the small Drills '^ that run into the Sea, are great Rivers ; and the Gullcys, which are dry for 3 or 4 Months before, now dischai^c an impetuous Torrent. The low Land by the Sea- side, is for the most part friable, loose, sandy Soil ; yet indiflercntly fertile and cloathed with Woods. The Mountains arc checquered with Woods, and some Spots of Savannahs: Some of the Hills are wholly covered with tall, flourishing Trees ; others but thinly ; and these few Trees that arc on them, look very small, rusty and withered ; and the Spots of Savannahs among them, appear rocky and barren. Many of the Mountains are rich in Gold, Copper, or both : The Rains wash the Gold out of the Mountains, which the Natives pick up in the adjacent Brooks, as the Spaniards do in America : How they get the Copper, I know not. The Trees that grow naturally here, are of divers Sorts ; many of them wholly unknown to me ; but such as I have seen in America or other places, and grow here likewise, are these, viz. Mangrove, white, red and blade; Maho, Calabash, several Sorts of the Palm-kind: The Cotton-Trees are not large, but tougher than those b America: Here are also Locust-Trees of 2 or 3 Sorts, bearing Fruit, but not like those I have formerly seen; these bear a large white Blossom, and yield much Fruit, but it is not sweet. Cana-fistula-trees, are very common here ; the Tree is about the Bigness of our ordinary Apple-Trees; their Branches not thick, nor full of Leaves. These and the before-mentioned, blossom in October and November ; the Blossoms are much like our Apple-Tree Blossoms, and about that Bigness : At first they are red ; but before they fall off^, when spread abroad, they are white; so that these Trees in their Season appear extraordinarily pleasant, and yield a very fragrant Smell. When the Fruit is ripe, it is round, and about the Bigness of a Man's Thumb ; of a dark brown Colour, inclining to red, and about 2 Foot or 2 Foot and half long. We found many of them under the Trees, but they had no Pulp in them. The Partitions in the Middle, are much at the same Distance with those 496 WILD FIG TREES— PALMS ghi to England, of the same Substance, and such small am. kt Seed in them : But whether they be the true Cana- '*99 istula or no, I cannot tell, because I found no black Pulp I tbem. The Calabashes here are very prickly : The Trees grow 1 and tapering ; whereas in the West-Indies they are low 1 spread much abroad. Merc are also wild Tamarind-trees, not so laige as the though much resembling them both in the Bark I Leaf. Wild Fig-Trees here are many, but not so Urge as ' 1 America. The Fruit grows, not on the Branches Bl^ly, tike those in America, but in Strings and Clusters, fO or 50 in a Cluster, about the Body and great Branches of the Tree, from the very Root up to the Top. These Figs m about the Bigness of a Crab-Apple, of a greenish Colour, and full of small white Seeds ; they smell pretty well, but have no Juice or Taste ; they are ripe in November. Here likewise grows Sandal-wood, and many [more Sorts of Trees fit for any Uses. The tallest among them, roemble our Pines; they arc streight and clear-bodied, but not very thick; the Inside is reddish near the Heart, and bani &nd ponderous. 9 Of the Palm-kind there arc 3 or 4 Sorts; two of Bdch Kinds I have not seen any where but here. Both fpt* vc ver)~ large, and tall. The Arst Son had Trunks of tbout 7 or eight Foot in Circumference, and about 80 or 90 Foot high. These had Branches at the Top like Coco-nut Trees, and their Fruit like Coco-nuts, but smaller: The Nut was of an oval Form, and about the Bigness of a Duck's Egg : The Shell black and very hard. 1'wat llmoit full of Kernel, having only a small empty Space in the Middle, but no Water as Coco-nuts have. The Kernel is too hard to be eaten. The F'ruit somewhat membles that in Brazil formerly mentioned. The Husk or Outside of the Fruit, was very yellow, soft and pulny, vben ripe; and full of small Fibres; and when il fell itmrn front the Tree, would math and Mncli unsavoury. Wmou. It. 497 a I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. The other Sort was as big and tall as the former; the *^ Body growing streight up without Limbs, as all Trees of the Palm- kind do : But instead of a great many long green Branches growing from the Head of the Tree, these had short Branches about the Bigness of a Man's Arm, and about a Foot long ; each of which spread it self into a great many small tough Twigs, that hung full of Fruit like so many Ropes of Onions. The Fruit was as big as a large Plumb; and every Tree had several Bushels of Fruit. The Branches that bore this Fruit, sprouted out at about 50 or 60 Foot heighth from the Ground. The Trunk of the Tree was all or one Bigness, from the Ground to that Heighth ; but from thence it went tapering snullcr and smaller to the Top, where it was no bigger than a Man's Leg, ending in a Stump : And there was no Green about the Tree, but the Fruit ; 'so that it appeared like a dead Trunk. Besides Fruit-Trees, here were many Sorts of tall streight-bodied Timber-Trees ; one Sort of which was like Pine. These grow plentifully all round the Island by the Sea-side, but not far within Land. 'Tis hard Wood, of a reddish Colour, and very ponderous. The Fruits of this Island, are Guavoes, Mangoes, Jaca's, Coco-nuts, Plantains, Bonanoes, Pine-Apples, Citrons, Pome- granates, Oranges, Lemons, Limes, Musk-Melons, Water- Melons, Pumpkins, &c. Many of these have been brought hither by the Dutch and Portugueze ; and most of them are ripe in September and October. There were many other excellent Fruits, but not now in Season ; as I was informed both by Dutch and Portugueze. Here I met with an Herb, which in the West-Indies we call Calalaloo. It grows wild here. I eat of it several Times, and found it as pleasant and wholesome as Spinage. Here are also Parsly, Sampler, &c. Indian Corn thrives very well here, and is the common Food of the Islanders; though the Portugueze and their Friends sow some Rice, but not half enough for their Subsistence. The Land-Animals are Buffaloes, Beeves, Horses, Hogs, Goats, Sheep, Monkeys, Guanoes, Lizards, Snakes, Scorpions, 498 THE RINGING BIRD— FISH ^tuDtpccs, &c. Beside the tame Hogs and Bul^loes, an. c are many wild alt over the Country, which any may '^ ly kill. As for the Beeves, Horses, Goats and Sheep, probable they were brought in by the Portuguezc or tch ; especially the Beeves; for 1 saw none but at the tch Fort Concordia. Wc also saw Monkeys, and some Snakes. One Sort low, and as big as a Man's Arm, and about 4 Foot J : Another Sort no bigger than the Stem of a Tobacco- t, about $ Foot long, green all over his Body, and with It red Head as big as a Man's Thumb. The Fowls are wild Cocks and Hens, Eagles, Hawks, iws, 2 Sorts of Pidgeons, Turtle-doves, 3 or 4 Sorts of rots, Parrakites, Cockatoes, Black-birds ; besides a Mul- ide of smaller Birds of divers Colours, whose charming ■ick makes the Woods very pleasant. One Sort of these :ty little Birds my Men call'd the Ringing-bird ; because »d 6 Notes, and always repeated all his Notes twice one r another ; beginning high and shrill, and ending low. s Bird was about the Bigness of a Lark, having a small -p black Bill and blue Wings ; the Head and Breast c of a pale red, and there was a blue Streak about its k. Here arc also Sea or Water-Fowls, zs Men of r-Birds, Boobies, Fishing- hawks. Herons, Goldens, Crab- ichcrs. Sec. The tame Fowl arc Cocks, Hens, Ducks, ac ; the 2 last Sorts I only saw at the Dutch Fort; of other Sort there are not many but among ihe Fortu- ne: The Woods abound with Bees, which make much ncy and Wax. The Sea is very well stock'd with Ush of divers Sorts, , Mullets. Bass, Brcamcs, Snooks, Mackarel, Farracoots, '•fith, Tcn-poundcrs. Scuttle-fish, Siing-rays, Whijvniys, Ipcraecs, Cockle-merchants, or Oyster-crackcn, Cavalliea, ngcr-EcIs, Rock-fijh, Dog-fish. &c. The Rays are to iliful. that I never drew the Sain but I catch'd sbme of n ; which wc salted and dryed. I caught one whcMe il was 13 Foot long. The Oxkle-Mcrchants are shaped Cavallics, and about their Bigness. They feed on Shcll- luving 2 very hard, thick, fiat Booet in their Ihroat, 499 I J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. with which they break in Pieces the Shells of the Fish they 1699 swallow. We always find a great many Shells in their Maws, crushed in Pieces. The Shell-fish, are Oysters of 3 Sorts, viz. Long-Oysters, Common Oysters, growing upon Rocks in great Abundance, and very flat ; and another Sort of large Oysters, fat and crooked ; the Shell of this, not easily to be distinguished from a Stone. Three or four of these roasted, will suffice a Man for one Meal. Cockles, as big as a Man's Head ; of which 2 or 3 are enough for a Meal ; they are very fat and sweet. Craw- fish, Shrimps, &c. Here are also many green Turtle, some Alligators and Grand-pisces, &c. The Original Natives of this Island, are Indians, they are of a middle Stature, streight-bodied, slender-limb'd, long-visag*d ; their Hair black and lank ; their Skins very swarthy. They are very dextrous and nimble, but withal lazy in the highest Degree. They are said to be dull in every Thing but Treachery and Barbarity. Their Houses are but low and mean, their Cloathing only a small Cloath about their Middle; but some of them for Ornament have Frontlets of Mother of Pearl, or thin Pieces of Silver or Gold, made of an oval Form, of the Breadth of a Crown- piece, curiously notched round the Edges ; Five of these placed one by another a little above the Eye-brows, making a sufficient Guard and Ornament for their Fore-head. They are so thin, and placed on their Fore-heads so artificially, that they seem riveted thereon: And indeed the Pearl- Oyster-shells make a more splendid Show, than either Silver or Gold. Others of them have Palmeto-caps made in divers Forms. As to their Marriages, they take as many Wives as they can maintain ; and sometimes they sell their Children to purchase more Wives. I enquired about their Religion, and was told they had none. Their common Subsistence is by Indian Corn, which every Man plants for himself. They take but little Pains to clear their Land ; for in the dry Time they set Fire to the withered Grass and Shrubs, and that burns them out a Plantation for the next wet Season. What other Grain they have, beside Indian Corn, 500 m . ! ill I THE INHABITANTS IN TIMOR know not. Their Plantations are very mean ; for they flight most in hunting ; and here are wild Buffaloes and [ogs enough, though very shy, because of their so frequent inling. They have a few boats and some Fishermen. Their Lrms are Lances, thick round short Truncheons and •i^cls; with these they hunt and kill their Game, and beir Enemies too; for this Island is now divided into ny Kingdoms, and all of different Languages; though their Customs and manner of living, as well as Shape nd Colour, they seem to be of one Stock. The chiefesi Kingdoms are Cupang, Amabie, Lortribie, 'obumbic, Namquimat; the Island also of Anamabao, or Lnabao, is a Kingdom. Each of these hath a Sultan who supreme in his Province and Kingdom, and hath under im several Raja's and other infcriour Officers. The Sultans or the most Part are Enemies to each other; which En- liiies arc fomented and kepi up by the Dutch, whose Fort id Factory is in the Kingdom of Cupang ; and therefore le Bay near which they are settled, is commonly called ^pang-Bay, They have only as much Ground as they keep within Reach of their Guns ; yet this whole ^Rgdom is at Peace with them ; and they freely trade Ogcthcr; as also with the Islanders on Anabao, who are 1 Amity as well with the Natives of Cupang, as with the lutch rcMding there; but they arc implacable Enemies » those of Amabie, who arc their next neighbours, and in Lmity with the Portuguezc : as arc also the Kingdoms of !bbumbic, Namquimal and Lortribie. It is very probable, t these 2 European Settlements on this Island, arc the [realcst Occasion of their continued Wars. The Portu- ^nezc vaunt highly of their Strength here, and that they : able at Pleasure to rout the Dutch, if they had Authority to do from the King of Portugal ; and they have itten to the Vice-roy ofGoa about it : And though their tequcst is not yet granted, yet (as they say) they live in txpcclation of it. These have no Forts, but depend on beir Alliance with the Natives; And indeed they are Irudy so mixt, that it is hard to distinguish whether they 501 i CAPTAIN DAMPIER*S VOYAGES A%. are Poftagoeze or Indians. Thdr Lai^nage is Portugaeze ; '^ and the Religion they hare, is Romish. They seem in Words to acknowledge the King of Portugal for thdr Sovereig) ; yet they will not accept of any Officers sent bjr him* They speak indiffinmtly the Malayan and their own native Languages, as well as Portuguese ; and the chiefest Officers that 1 saw, were of this Sort ; ndther did 1 see above 3 or 4 white Men among them ; and of these, 2 were Priests* Of this mixt Breed there are smne thousands ; of whom some have small Arms of thdr own, and know how to use them. The chiefest Person (as I before said) is called Captain More or Maior : He is a white Man, sent hither by the Vice-Roy of Goa, and seems to have great Command here. I did not see him ; for he seldom comes down. His Residence is at a Place called Porta Nova; which the People at Laphao told me was a great way oflF; but 1 could not get any more particular Account. Some told me that he is most commonly in the Mountains, with an Army of Indians, to guard the Passes between them and the Cupangayans, especially in the dry Times. The next Man to him is Alexis Mendosa : He is a right Indian, speaks very good Portugueze, and is of the Romish Re- ligion. He lives 5 or 6 Miles from the Sea, and is called the Lieutenant. (This is he whom I caird Govemour, when at Laphao.) He commands next to Captain More, and hath under him another at this Fort (at the Sea-side) if it may be so called. He also is called Lieutenant, and is an Indian Portugueze. Besides this Mungrel-Breed of Indians and Portugueze here are also some China-Men, Merchants from Maccao: They bring hither coarse Rice, Gold, Tea, Iron-work, Porcelane, and Silk both wrought and raw : They get in Exchange pure Gold as it is here gathered. Bees-wax, Sandall-Wood, Coire, &c. It is said there are about 20 small China Vessels come hither every Year from Maccao; and commonly one Vessel a Year from Goa, which brings European Commodities and Callicoes, Muslins, &c. Here are likewise some small Barks belonging to this Place, that trade to Batavia, and bring from thence both European and 502 THE DUTCH SETTLEMENT lian Goods and Rice. The Vessels generally come here March, and stay till September. ' The Dutch, as I before said, are setled in the Kingdom Cupang, where they have a small neat Stone Fort. It lems to be pretty strong; yet, as I was informed, had en taken by a French Pirate about 2 Years ago : The Jtch were used very barbarously, and ever since are very Jous of any Strangers that come this Way ; which I my f experienced. These depend more on their own Strength in on the Natives their Friends ; having good Guns, nrder, and Shot enough on all Occasions, and Soldiers Bicient to manage the Business here, all well disciplin'd d in good Order ; which is a Thing the Portugueze tir Neighbours arc altogether destitute of, they having European Soldiers, few Arms, less Ammunition, and sir Fort consisting of no more than 6 bad Guns planted linst the Sea, whose Touch-holes (as was before observed) ! so entarg'd by Time, that a great Part of the Strength the Powder flics away there ; and having Soldiers in pay, B Natives on all Occasions arc hired ; and their Govcrn- fOt now 13 so loose, that they will admit of no more Been from Portugal or Goa. They have also little or ■ Supply of Arms or Ammunition from thence, but buy as often as they can, of the Dutch, Chinese, &c. So It upon the whole it seems improbable that they should tr attempt to drive out the Dutch, for fear of loosing (rnielves, notwithstanding their boasted Prowess and Alli- Ce with the Natives : And indeed, as far as I could learn, •y have Business enough to keep their own present Terri- ic» from the Incursions of the Cupangayans ; who are lends to the Dutch, and whom doubtless the Dutch have lys enough to preserve in their Friendship; besides that y have an inveterate Malice to their Neighbours, inso- ich that they kill all they meet, and bring away their idt in Triumph. The great Men of Cupang stick the ids of those they have killed, on Poles; and set them the Tops of their Houses; and these they esteem above their other Riches. The inferiour Sort bring the Heads those they kill, into Houses made for that Purpose ; 503 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. of which there was one at the Indian Village near the 1699 Port Concordia, almost full of Heads, as I was told. I know not what Encouragement they have for their In- humanity. The Dutch have always 2 Sloops belonging to their Fort; in these they go about the Island, and trade with the Natives; and, as far as I could learn, they trade indifferently with them all. For though the Inland People are at war with each other, yet those by the Sea- side seem to be little concerned ; and, generally speaking the Malayan Language, are very sociable and easily induced to trade with those that speak that Language; which the Dutch here always learn ; Besides, being well acquainted with the Treachery of these People, they go well arm'd among them, and are very vigilant never to give them ao Opportunity to hurt them; and it is very probable that they supply them with such Goods, as the Portuguezc cannot. The Malayan Language, as I have before said, is generally spoken amongst all the Islands hereabouts. The greater the Trade is, the more this Language is spoken: In some it is become their only Language ; in others it is but little spoken, and that by the Sea-side only. With this Language the Mahometan Religion did spread it self, and was got hither before any European Christians came : But now, though the Language is still used, the Mahometan Religion falls, where-ever the Portugueze or Dutch are settled ; unless they be very weak, as at Solor and Ende, where the chief Language is Malayan, and the Religion Mahometanism ; though the Dutch are settled at Solor, and the Portugueze at the East-end of the Island Ende, at a Place called Lorantuca;^ which, as I was informed, is a large Town, hath a pretty strong Fort and safe Harbour. The chief Man there (as at Timor) is called Captain More, and is as absolute as the other. These 2 principal Men are Enemies to each other; and by their Letters and Messages to Goa, inveigh bitterly against each 1 Larantuka on the N£. coast of Flores. 504 W LORANTUCA ^ Bthcr ; and are ready to do all tbe ill Offices tber can ; yet as. ] Kdchcr of them much regards the Vice-Roy of Goa, as I **» Kas infonn'd. ■ L' Onntuca a said to be more populous then any Toirn Kd Timor ; the Island Ende affbriing greater Plenty of all Kunno* of Fruit, and being much betur supplied with all Bleccssarics, than Laphao; especially with bbecp, Goats, ^Hogs, Poultry, &c. but it b very dai^eraus gctoog into ■liis Harbour, because of the violent Tides, betweea the ■lUnds Ende and Solor. Id the middle Channel betwe en Blmor and the Range of Islands to the Northward of it, Brhereof Ende and Solar arc 2, there runs a constant Current all the Year to the Westward ; though near either ^Biore there are Tides indeed ; but the Ttdc of Flood, ^bfaich sets West, ninnit^ 8 or 9 Hour^ and the Ebb not Hxcecding 3 or 4 Hours, the Tide in some Places riseth 9 Sir 10 Foot on a Spring. I The Seasons of the Year here at Timor, arc much the ■nmc as in other Places in South Latitude. The fair Weather begins in April or May, and continues to October, then the Tornadoes begin to come, but do violent bad Weather till the Middle of December. Then there are violent West or North-Wesl Winds, with Rain, till towards the Middle of February. In May the Southerly Wmds act in, and blow very strong on the Ncrth-ndc of the Island, but fair. There is great Diffi:rence of Winds on the Z Sdcs of the Island : For the Southerly Winds are but very faint on the South-^ide, and very hard on the North-side ; and the bad Weather on the South'side comes in very violent in October, which on the North-side comet not till December. You have very good Sea and Land-breezes, when the Weather is fair; and may run indifli^rently to the East or West, as your Business ties. We found from September to December the Wmds veering all round the Compass gradtully in 24 Hours Time; but such a constant Western Current, that it's much harder getting to the Eut 1 West at or near Spring Tides : Which I have more t once made Tryal of. For weighing from Balwo at I Clock in the Momiog on the 12th Insunt. wc kept 505 4 kcpl ^ CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AX. By a good Observation we found that the South-East-point *^ of Omba lies in Latitude 8 d. 25 m. In my Draughts its laid down in 8 deg. 10 min. My true Course from Babao, is East, 25 deg. North, distance one hundred dghty throe miles. We sounded several times when near Omba, bat had no ground. On the North-East point of Omtn wt saw four or five Men, and a little further three pretty Houses on a low Pcnnt, but did not go ashore. At five this Afternoon, we had a Tornado, whid yielded much Rain, Thunder and Lightning ; yet we had but little Wind. The 24th in the Morning we catched a large Shark, which gave all the Ships Company a plentiful Meal The 27th we saw the burning Island,^ it lies in Ladtude 6 deg. 36 min. South ; it is high, and but small. It nios fi-om the Sea a little sloaping towards the Top ; which is divided in the Middle into two Peaks, between which issued out much Smoak : I have not seen more from any Vulcana I saw no Trees ; but the North-side appeared green, and the rest look'd very barren. Having past the burning Island, I shap*d my Course for two Islands called Turtle Isles, which lye North-Eist by East a little Easterly, and distant about fifty Le3f[ues from the burning Isle. I fearing the Wind might veer to the Eastward of the North, steered 20 Leagues North- East, then North-East by East. On the 28th wc saw two small low Islands, called Luca-parros,' to the North of us. At Noon I accounted my self 20 Leagues short of the Turtle Isles. The next Morning, being in the Latitude of the Turtk Islands, we looked out sharp for them, but saw no appear- ance of any Island, till 1 1 a Clock ; when we saw an Island at a great distance. At first we supposed it might be ODt of the Turtle Isles : But it was not laid down true, nrither in Latitude nor Longitude fi-om the burning Isle, nor from the Luca-parros, which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they being laid down very well from the Burmng ' Gunong Api. ' Lucipara. The Turtle Islands are low sandy islets to the noith of the Lucipara group, of which they are, in fiict, a part. 508 THE TCRTLE ISLES— BIRD-ISLAND ^ md thu Gkewtae in true LAdtiidc and distance from : So tfau I could aac tell what to chink of the Isi&ad ' in aglu; wc iMTing had fior Weather, so thit wc 1 pm bf the Turtle bles without seeing tbem ; ' rht was much too far off for them. We I deg, 2 mio. East. In the Afternoon I lax by East for the Islands that we saw. At a Qock I went and iook'd av& tbc Fore-yard, and saw Islands at much greater distance than the Turtle Islands e laid down in m; Draughts; one of them was a very gb pcak'd Mountun, cleft at Top, and much like the Iming labnd that we past by. but bigger and higher ; the 'ler was a pretty long high Sat Island. Now I was tain that these were not the Turtle Islands, and that J could be no other than the Bandc '-Isles ; yet wc in to make them plainer. At 3 a Clock we dis- 'ened another small flat Island to the North-West of the and saw a great deal of Smoak rise from the Top of high Island; At- 4 wc saw other small Islands, by htch I was now assured that these were the Bande-lsles ere. At 5 I altered my Course and steered East, and at Easi-South-Easi ; because I would not be seen by the ■habitants of those Islands in the Morning. We had k Wind all Night ; and in the Morning as soon as 'twas ;hc, wc saw another high pcak'd Island : At 8 it bore ith-South-East half East, distance 8 Leagues. And this I :w (o be Bird-Isle.' 'Tis laid down in our Draughts in [itude 5 dcg. 9 min. South, which is too far Southerly f 17 Miles according to our Observation ; And the like rror in laying down the Turtle-Islands, might be the Iccasion of our missing them. At night I shonned Sail, for fear of coming too nigh ne Islands.' that stretch away bending like a half Moon ■m Ceram towards Timor, and which in my Course I M of ncccsuty pass through. The next Morning be- es, I saw them ; and found them to be at a farther ;ance from Bird-Island, than I expected. In the After- > SerwaUi Iklindt. J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Boat could come close to, and it was very easie to be fill*d ; >7oo 2nd that the Ship might anchor as near to it as I pleas'd : So I went thither. The next Morning therefore we anchor'd in 25 Fathom Water, soft oazie Ground, about a Mile from the River : We got on board 3 Tun of Water diat Night ; and caught 2 or 3 Pike-fish, in shape much like a Parracota, but with a longer Snout, something resembling a Garr, yet not so long. The next day I sent the Boat again for Water, and before night all my Casks were full. Having filfd here about 15 Tuns of Water, seeing we could catch but little Fish, and had no other ReiFreshments, I intended to sail next day; but finding that we wanted Wood, I sent to cut some ; and going ashore to hasten it, at some distance from the place where our Men were, 1 found a small Cove, where I saw two Barbecues, which appear*d not to be above 2 Months standing : The Spam were cut with some sharp Instrument ; so that, if done by the Natives, it seems that they have Iron. On the loth, a little after 1 2 a-Clock, we weighed and stood over to the North-side of the Bay ; and at i a-Clock stood out with the Wind at North and North-North-West. At 4 we past out by a White Island, which 1 so named from its many white ClifFs, having no name in our Draughts. It is about a League long, pretty high, and very woody : Tis about 5 Miles from the Main, only at the West-end it reaches within 3 Miles of it. At some distance oflF at Sea, the West-point appears like a Cape-land ; The North-side trends away North-North-West, and the East-side East- South-East. This Island lies in Latitude 3 degrees 4 min. South ; and the Meridian Distance from Bahao, 500 and 12 Miles East. After we were out to Sea, we pliexl to get to the Northward ; but met with such a strong Current against us, that we got but little. For if the Wind favoured us in the night, that we got 3 or 4 Leagues ; we lost it again, and were driven as far astern next Morning ; so that we plyed here several Days. The 14th, being past a point of Land that we had been 3 Days getting about, we found little or no Current ; so that having the Wind at North- West by West and 512 MM INHABITANTS OF NEW GUINEA West-North-Wcst, wc stood to the Northward, and had ' leveral Soundings: Ai 3 a-C!ock, 38 Fathom; the nearest 'J™^ part of Ncw-Guinca being about 3 Leagues distance : At 4, 37 ; at 5, 36; at 6, 36; at 8, 33 Fathom; Then the Cape was about 4 Leagues distant ; so that as we ran ofF, we found our Water shallower. Wc had then some Islands to the Westward of us, at about four Leagues distance. A liltle after noon we saw Smokes on the Islands tod the West of us ; and having a fine Gale of Wind, 1 steered I swsy for them : At 7 a-Clock in the Evening we anchored ' in 35 Fathom, about two Leagues from an Island, good soft oazic Ground. Wc lay still all night, and saw Fires tsborc. In the Morning wc weighed again, and ran farther | in, thinking to have shallower Water; but wc ran within I s Mile of the Shore, and came to in 38 Fathom, good soft I holding Ground. While we were under Sail, 2 Canoes came ot" within call of us: They spoke to us, but we did not understand their Language, nor Signs. Wc wav'd to them to come aboard, and 1 call'd to them in the Malayan Language to do the same ; but they would not ; yet they came so nigh us, that we could shew them such Things as wc had to truck with them ; Yet neither would this entice tbcnt to come aboard ; but they made Signs for us to come ashore, and away they went. Then I went after them in my Rnnacc, carrying with me Knives, Beads, Glasses, Hatchets, &c. When we came near the Shore, I called to them in the Malayan Language : I saw but 2 Men at first, the rest lying in Ambush nchind the Bushes ; but tt soon as I threw ashore some Knives and other Toys, they came out, flung down their Weapons, and came into the Waicr by the Boat's Side, making Signs of Friendship by pouring Water on their Heads with one Hand, which they dipt mto the Sea. The next Day in the Afternoon several other Canoas came aboard, and brought many Roots and Fruits, which we purchas'd. This Island has no Name in our Draughts, but the Natives call it Puto Sabuda.' It is about 3 Leagues long. s Bi tb« enUMice to McClaei'* Inlet. 513 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. and 2 Miles wide, more or less. It is of a good Heighth, '700 so as to be seen 1 1 or 12 Leagues. It is very Rocky; yet above the Rocks there is good yellow and black Mould ; not deep, yet producing plenty of good tall Trees, and bearing any Fruits or Roots which the Inhabitants plant I do not know all its Produce ; but what we saw, were Plantains, Coco-Nuts, Pine-Apples, Oranges, Papaes, Potatoes, and other large Roots. Here are also another sort of wild Jaca*s, about the bigness of a Man's two Fists, full of Stones or Kernels, which eat pleasant enough when roasted. The Libby Tree grows here in the Swampy Valleys, of which they make Sago Cakes : 1 did not see them make any, but was told by the Inhabitants that it was made of the Pith of the Tree, in the same Manner 1 have described in my "Voyage Round the World." They shew'd me the Tree whereof it was made, and 1 bought about 40 of the Gdces. I bought also 3 or 4 Nutm^ in their Shell, which did not seem to have been long gathered ; but whether they be the Growth of this Island or not, the Natives would not tell whence they had them, and seem'd to prize them very much. What Beasts the Island affords, I know not : But here are both Sea and Land-Fowl. Of the first, Boobies and Men of War-Birds are the chief ; some Goldens, and small Milk-white Crab- catchers. The Land-Fowls are Pidgeons, about the Bigness of Mountain-Pidgeons in Jamaica ; and Crows about the Bigness of those in England, and much like them; but the inner Part of their Feathers are white, and the Out- side black ; so that they appear all black, unless you extend the Feathers. Here are large Sky-coloured Birds, such as we lately kilTd on New Guinea; and many other small Birds, unknown to us. Here are likewise Abundance of Bats/ as big as young Coneys; their Necks, Head, Ears and Noses, like Foxes ; their Hair rough ; that about their Necks, is of a whitish yellow, that on their Heads and Shoulders black ; their Wings are 4 Foot over, from Tip to Tip : They smell like Foxes. The Fish arc Bass, * Pteropus siramineus {J\ i 'HE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND ;k-6sh, and a Sort of Fish like Mullets, OM-wives, ip-r»ys, and some other Sorts that 1 know not, but no '^"^ ] X Plenty of any; for 'tis deep Water till within less I a Mile of the Shore ; then there is a Bank of Coral within which you have Shoal Water, white clean So there is no good Fishing with the Sain. This Island lies in Latitude 2 deg. 43 min. South, Meridian distance from Port Babao on the Island or, 486 Miles. Besides this Island, here are 9 or 10 r small Islands, as they are laid down in the Draughts. The Inhabitants of this Island are a Sort of very tawny ins, with long black Hair; who in their Manners r but little from the Mindanayans, and others of : Eastern Islands. These seem to be the chief; for ies them wc saw also shock curl-patcd New-Guinea many of which are Slaves to the others, but I ik not all. They arc very poor, wear no Cloaths, but ; a Clout about ihcir Middle, made of the Rinds of Tops of Palmeto Trees; but the Women had a Sort Callicoc-Cloaths. Their chief Ornaments arc Blue Yellow-Beads, worn about their Wrists. The Men themselves with Bows and Arrows, Lances, broad rds like those of Mindanao; their Lances are pointed I Bone. They strike Fish very ingeniously with den Fiss-gigs, and have a very ingenious way of making Fish rise : For they have a Piece of Wood curiously 'd and painted much like a Dolphin (and perhap T Figures) ; these they let down into the Water by a ; with a small Weight to sink it ; when they think it enough, they haul the Une Into their Boats very fast, (he Fish rise up after this Figure ; and they stand ly to strike them when they arc near the Surface of the er. But their chief Livelihood is from their Planta- . Yet they have large Boats, and go over to New- lea, where they get Slaves, fine Parrots, 6cc. which carry to Goram ' and exchange for Callicoes. One came from thence a little before I arriv'd here ; of ' An itbnd in lh« Cctaoi Lnui itioup. S"S CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. whom I bought some Parrots ; and would have bought a '7«> Slave, but they would not barter for any Thing but Gillicoes, which I had not. Their Houses on this Side were very small, and seem'd only to be for Necessity ; but on the other Side of the Island we saw good large Houses. Their Proes are narrow with Outlagers on each Side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of what Religion these are ; but I think they are not Mahometans, by their drinking Brandy out of the same Cup with us without any Scruple. At this Island we continued till the 20th Instant, having laid in Store of such Roots and Fruits as the Island aflForded. On the 20th, at half an Hour after 6 in the Morning, I weigh'd, and standing out we saw a large Boat full of Men lying at the North-point of the Island. As we passed by, they rowed towards their Habitations, where wc sup- posed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us (tho' we gave them no Cause of Terrour), or for some Difer- ences among themselves. We stood to the Northward till 7 in the Evening; then saw a Ripling ; and the Water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but 22 Fathom. I went about and stood to the Westward till 2 next Morning, then tack'd again, and had these several Soundings : At 8 in the Evening, 22 ; at 10, 25; at II, 27; at 12, 28 Fathom; at 2 in the Morning 26 ; at 4, 24; at 6, 23 ; at 8, 28 ; at 12, 22. We passed by many small Islands, and among many dangerous Shoals, without any remarkable Occurrence, till the 4th of February, when we got within 3 Leagues of the North-West Cape of New-Guinea, called by the Dutch Cape Mabo.^ Off this Cape there lies a small woody Island, and many Islands of different Sizes to the North and North- East of it. This Part of New Guinea is high Land, adorn d with tall Trees that apf)eared very green and flourishing. The Cape it self is not very high, but ends in a low sharjp Point ; and on either Side there appears another such Point at equal Distances, which makes it resemble a Diamond. * Cape Selee. 516 ■ COCKLE ISLAND fats only appesrs when you are abreast of the middle an. Point; and then you have no Ground within 3 Leagues *^°° if the Shore. In the Afternoon we past by the Cape, and stood over ""or the Islands. Before it was dark, we were got within a Laguc of the Wcstcrmost ; but had no Ground with 50 Pathom of Line. However fearing to stand nearer in the l«rk, wc tack'd and stood to the East, and plyed all Night, The next Morning wc were got 5 or 6 Leagues to the East- irard of that Island; and having the Wind Easterly, we itood in to the Northward among the Islands; sounded, md had no Ground. Then I sent in my Boat to sound, . ! i they had Ground with 50 Fathom near a Mile from L- Shore. Wc tack'd before the Boat came aboard again, r fear of a Shoal that was about a Mile to the East of hat Island the Boat went to ; from whence also a Shoal- wnt stretched out it self till it met the other : They irought with them such a Cockle, as I have mentioned in ny "Voyage round the World," found near Celebes; and hey saw many more, some bigger than that which they )rought aboard, m they said ; and for this Reason I named t Cockle-Island. I sent them to sound again, ordering hem to fire a Musquet if they found good anchoring ; we Kcrc then standing to the Southward, with a fine Breeze. %s soon as they fired, I tack'd and stood in : They told me iiey had 50 Tathom when they fired. I tack'd again, and nidc all the Sail I could to get out, being near some Rocky [sUnds and Shoals to Leeward of us. The Breeze increased, lod I thought we were out of Danger ; but having a Shoal lUst by U9, and the Wind falling again, I ordered the Boat !o tow us, and by their Help wc got clear from it. We ud a strong Tide setting to the Westward. At I a-Clock, being past the Shoal, and finding the ride setting to the Westward, I anchor'd in 35 Fathom, mane Sand, with small Coral and Shells. Being nearest Ui Cockle-Island, Limmcdiatcly sent both the Boats thither ; me to cut Wood, and the other to fish. At 4 in the Wtcmoon, having a small Breeze at South-South- West, I de a Sign for my Boats to come aboard. They brought 5>7 J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. some Wood, and a few small Cockles, none of them cx- '700 ceeding lo Pound weight; whereas the Shell of the great one weighed 7 8 Pound ; but it was now high Water, and therefore they could get no bigger. They also brought on Board some Pidgeons, of which we found Plenty on all the Islands where we touch'd in these Seas. Also in many Places we saw many large Batts, but kill'd none, except those I mentioned at Pulo Sabuda. As our Boats came aboard, we weigh'd and made Sail, steering East-South- East as long as the Wind held : In the Morning we found we had got 4 or 5 Leagues to the East of the Place where we weighed. We stood to and fro till 1 1 ; and finding that we lost Ground, anchored in 42 Fathom, coarse gravelly Sand, with some Coral. This Morning we thought we saw a Sail. In the Afternoon I went ashore on a small woody Island, about 2 Leagues from us. Here I found the greatest Number of Pidgeons that ever I saw either in the East or West-Indies, and small Cockles in the Sea round the Island, in such Quantities that we might have laden the Boat in an Hour's Time : These were not above 10 or 12 Pound Weight. We cut some Wood, and brought off Cockles enough for all the Ship's Company ; but having no small Shot, we could kill no Pidgeons. I returned aboot 4 a-Clock; and then my Gunner and both Mates went thither, and in less than 3 quarters of an Hour they kill'd and brought oflF i o Pidgeons. Here is a Tide : The Flood sets West and the Ebb East ; but the latter is very feint, and but of small Continuance. And so we found it ever since we came from Timor. The Winds we found Easterly, between North-East and East-South-East ; so that if these continue, it is impossible to beat farther to the Eastvwtl on this Coast against Wind and Current. These Easterly Winds encreased from the Time we were in the Latitude of about 2 deg. South ; and as we drew nigher the line, they hung more Easterly. And now being to the NcMth of the Continent of New Guinea, where the Coast lies East and West, I find the Trade-wind here at East ; which yet in higher Latitudes is usually at North-North- West and 518 KING WILLIAMS ISLAND forth-West ; and so I did expect them here, it bat^ to South of the Line. ' The 7th in the Morning 1 sent my Bo«t ashore on ^dgeon-lsland, and staid till Noon. In the Aitcroooa ly Men returned, brought 22 Ptdgeoas, and nuny Gxkles, me very large, some small : They also brooght one empty lell, that weigh "d 258 Pound. At 4 a-Clock we weigh'd, having a tatall Westcrtjr ^ind, and a Tide with us; at 7 in the Evening we chorM in 42 Fathom, near King William's Island, whefc went ashore the next Morning, drank his Majesty's lealth, and honour'd it with his Name- It is about a «agucs and a half in length, very high, and extraOFdinarily ;11 cloithed with Woods. The Trees are of dirers Sorts, ost unknown to us. but all very green and flourislttng; ■ny of them had Flowers, some wbhc, some purple, hers yellow ; all which smelt very fragrantly. The Trees e generally tall and streight-bodicd, and may be fit for ly Uses. I saw one of a clean Body, wtthotit Knot or imb, 60 or 70 Foot high by Esiimaxion. It was 3 of my athoms about, and kept its Bigness without any tennble even to the Top. The Mould of the Island is Itck, but not deep; it being very rocky. On the Sides k) Top of the bland, are many Palmeto-Trees. whose leads we could dtsccm over all the other Trees, but their lies we could not see. About I in the Afternoon we weighed and stood to the lutward, between the Main and King William's Island ; ' iving the Island on our Larboard-^ide, and sounding till were past the Island; and then wc had no Ground. we found the Flood setting East by Nonh, and the h West by South. There were Shoalt and small Islands :wecn us and the Main, which caused the Tide to act 7 inconstantly, and make many Whirlings in the Water ; ! we did not find the Tide to set strong any way, nor : Water to rise much. On the 9ih, being to the Eastward of King William's ■ OtM of tim WaiaBK iiUmIl i»9 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. Island, we plied all Day between the Main and other Islands, '700 having Easterly Winds and fair Weather till 7 the next Morning. Then we had very hard Rain till 8, and saw many Shoals of Fish. We lay becalm'd ofF a pretty deep Bay on New-Guinea, about 12 or 14 Leagues wide, and 7 or 8 Leagues deep, having low Land near its Bottom, but high Land without. The Eastermost Part of New-Guinea seen, bore East by South, distant 12 Leagues : Cape Mabo West-South-West half South, distant 7 Leagues. At I in the Afternoon it began to rain, and continued till 6 in the Evening ; so that having but little Wind and most Calms, we lay still ofF the fore- mentioned Bay, having King William's Island still in Sight, though distant by Judgment 1 5 or 16 Leagues West. We saw many Shoals of small Fish, some Sharks, and 7 or 8 Dolphins; but catcht none. In the Afternoon, being about 4 Leagues from the Shore, we saw an Opening in the Land, which seem'd to afFord good Harbour : In the Evening we saw a large Fire there ; and I intended to go in (if Winds and Weather would permit) to get some Acquaintance with the Natives. Since the 4th Instant that we passed Cape Mabo, to the 1 2th, we had small Easterly Winds and Calms, so that we anchor'd several Times; where I made my Men cut Wood, that we might have a good Stock when a Westerly Wind should present ; and so we ply'd to the Eastward, as Winds and Currents would permit ; having not got in all above 30 Leagues to the Eastward of Caf)e Mabo. But on the 1 2th, at 4 in the Afternoon, a small Gale sprung up at North-East by North, with Rain : At 5 it shuffled about to North-West, from thence to the South West, and continued between those 2 Points a pretty brisk Gale ; so that we made Sail and steered away North-East, till the 13th in the Morning, to get about the Cape of Good Hope. When 'twas Day, we steer 'd North-East half East, then North-East by East till 7 a-Clock ; and being then 7 or 8 Leagues off Shore, we steer'd away East ; the Shore trend- ing East by South. We had very much Rain all Night, so that we could not carry much Sail ; yet we had a very 520 THE COAST OF NEW GUI3 dy Gale. At 8 this Momtng tfac Wc and the Wind decreu'd to a fine TopgtlfaaC Gale; nd ' settled at West by South. Wc had more Rjia tkw } Days past, than all the Voyage in so sbort Ttmc We were now about 6 Leagues froa the Land a( Nc«- Guinca, which appcar'd very high ; aod we sv 2 Head- 's about 20 Leagues asunder ; the one to the Eau, and other to the West, which last it calkd the Cafe of Hope. Wc found Variaikm Eaa 4 deg. The 15th in the Morning between IZ and 2 s-Clock, tt very brisk Gale at Nrwrh-West. and loofc'd very k in the South-West. At z it flcw aboat at ooce the South-South- West, and rained very hard. The ind settled sometime at West-South- West, and we ircd East-North-£a$t till 3 in the Mofiung : Then the ind and Rain abating, we «ieend East haJf North for of coming near the Land. Presently after, it being a Jc clear, the Man at the Bowsprit end, caJl'd out. " Land our Starboard Bow." We lookt out and saw it plain. I presently sounded, and had but lo Faibom soft Ground. The Master, being somewhat scar'd, came running in haste vith thb News, and said it was best to anchor : I told him but sound again; then wc had 12 Fathom; the next Int. 13 and a half; the 4ih, 17 Fathom ; and then no round with jo Fathom Ljne. However we kept off the ' ind, and did not go so fast but that wc could see any ler Danger before wc came nigh it. For here might 'c been more Islands not laid down in my Draughts I Thti, For I search'd all the Draughts I had, if ince I might 6nd any Island in the one, which was t in the others; but I could find none near us. When it 1 Day, wc were about 5 Leagues off the land wc saw ; I, I believe, not above 5 Mile or at most 2 I.«aguc8 off when wc first saw it in the Night. This is a small Island,* but pretty high ; I named it ovidcncc. About 5 Leagues to the Southward of this, Te is another Island, whtch is called William Scoutcn's CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. in our Draughts. We found Variation 9 deg. 50 min. '700 East. The 28 th we had many violent Tornadoes, Wind, Rain, and some Spouts ; and in the Tornadoes the Wind shifted. In the Night we had fair Weather, but more Lightning than we had seen at any Time this Voyage. This Morning we left a large high Island on our Larboard-side, called in the Dutch Draughts Wishart's ^ Isle, about 6 Leagues from the Main ; and seeing many Smoaks upon the Main, I therefore steer'd towards it. * Visscher's Island. "The Main'' being New Ireland, or, as it is now called, New Mecklenburg. 524 CHAP. IV Ttl/ main Land »/ Nfw-Guinra. Its InbahhaMi. SUngrr's Bay. SmaU hiandi. Carrel Dtnnh Itli deuribed. !u Inhabitant]. Thiir PrMi. jinlhtny Cavt't Jiltind, li> Inhabitants. Trtfs full <./ W-'srm. f^nd in iht Sea. St. John'i Uiand. The main Land af NtxvGuinra. Ill Inhabitants. The Coast dricrihrd. Caf* and Boy St. George. Cape Orford. Another Bay. The Inhatilanlt thrrt. A large account of the Author's Attempts ta Trade with them. He namri the plate Port Mountagur. The CeuMtry ihereabaafi desiriied, and its produce. A Burning Island Jntriied. A new passage found. Neva Britannia. Sir George Ratt't Island. Long Island, and Crown Island, ditcovertd and deurihed. Sir R. Rieh'i Island. A burning Island, A strange Spoil. A Conjecture concerning a nevj Passage Sauthtuard. King IVitSam's Island. Strange ff^hirlpcols. Distance between Cape Mabt, and Cape St. George, computed. THE main Land, at this place, is high and moun- ' tainous, adoni'd with tall flourishing Trees ; The Sides of the Hills had many large Planta- tions and Patches of clear'd Land; which, tcjcctber with the Smoaks wc saw, were certain Signs of its being well inhabited ; and I was desirous to have some Commerce with the Inhabitants. Being nigh the Shore, we saw first one IVoe ; a little after, 2 or 3 more; and at last « great many Boats came from all the adjacent Bays. When they were 46 in Number, they approach'd so near u», that we could see each others Signs, and hear each other speak; though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made Signs for us to go in towards the Shore, pointing that way ; it was squally Weather, which at first Rude me cautious of gwng too near; but the Weather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. Bay a-head of us, which we could have got into well enough ^^^ at first ; but while we lay by, we were driven so far to Leeward, that now it was more difficult to get in. The Natives lay in their Proes round us; to whom I shewed Beads, Knives, Glasses, to allure them to come nearer ; but they would not come so nigh, as to receive any thing from us. Therefore I threw out some things to them, viz. a Knife fastned to a piece of Board, and a Glass-botde corked up with some Beads in it, which they took up and seemed well pleased. They often struck their left Breast with their right hand, and as often held up a black Trun- cheon over their Heads, which we thought was a Token of Friendship; Wherefore we did the like. And when we stood in towards their Shore, they seem'd to rejoyce ; but when we stood ofF, they frown'd, yet kept us Company in their Proes, still pointing to the Shore. About 5 a-Clock we got within the Mouth of the Bay, and sounded several times, but had no Ground, though within a mile of the Shore. The Bason of this Bay was above 2 Miles within us, into which we might have gone; but as I was not assured of Anchorage there, so I thought it not Prudence to run in at this time ; it being near Night, and sedng a black Tornado rising in the West, which I most feard: Besides, we had near 200 Men in Proes close by us. And the Bays on the Shore were lined with Men from one end to the other, where there could not be less than 3 or 400 more. What Weapons they had, we know not, nw yet their Design. Therefore I had, at their first coming near us, got up all our small Arms, and made several put on Cartouch Boxes to prevent Treachery. At last I resolved to go out again : Which when the Natives in their Proes perceived, they began to fling Stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with Engines for that purpose; (wherefore I named this place Slinger's Bay:) But at the Firing of one Gun they were all amaz'd, drew oflF and flung no more Stones. They got together, as if consulting what to do ; for they did not make in towards the Shore, but lay still, though some of them were killed or wounded; and many more of them had paid for their Boldness, but 526 THE INHABITANTS OF NEW GUINEA i»t I was unwilling to cut off any of them ; which if I 1 done, 1 could not hope afterwards to bring them to ' !at with me. The next day wc sailed close by an Island,' where we kw many Smoaks, and Men in the Bays ; out of which me 2 or 3 Canoas, taking much pains to overtake us, ot they could not, though we went with an easy Sail ; and I could not now stay for them. As 1 past by the South-East Point, I sounded several times within a Mile of the Sandy lays, but had no Ground : About 3 Leagues to the North- •rd of the South-East Point, wc opened a large deep Bay, r*d from West- North- Wq;st and South-West Winds. rhcrc were 2 other Islands that lay to the North-Kast of it, 'hich sccur'd the Bay from North-East Winds; One was Dt small, yet woody ; the other was a League long, ihabited and full of Coco-Nut-Trecs, I endeavoured to into this Bay : but there came such Flaws off from the gh Land over it, that 1 could not ; Besides, we had many ard Squalls, which deterr'd me from it ; and Night ning on, I would not run any hazard, but bore away the small inhabited Island, to see if we could get nchoring on the East-side of it. When we came there, found the Island so narrow, that there could be no lelter; therefore I tack'd and stood toward the greater land again: And being more than Mid-way between 0th, I lay by, designing t<i endeavour for Anchorage next Homing. Between 7 and 8 at Night, we spied a Canoa loac by us ; and seeing no more, suffered her to come ird. She had 3 Men in her, who brought off 5 Coco- Juts, for which 1 gave each of them a Knife and a String Beads, to encourage them to come off again in the iomtng : But before these went away, wc saw two more knoas coming ; therefore we stood away to the Northward «jm them, and then lay by again till Day. We saw no t Boats this Night ; neither design'd to suffer any to c aboard in the dark. By nine a-Clock the next Moniing, we were got within ' Appanatly one of the Gaidner iiLniii. S»7 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. thinking we could run the Ship a-ground any where, as '7«> they did their Proes ; for we saw neither Sail nor Anchor among any of them, though most Eastern Indians have both. These had Proes made of one Tree, well dug, with Outlagers on one side : They were but small, yet well shap'd. We endeavour'd to anchor, but found no Ground within a Mile of the Shore: We kept close along the North-side, still sounding till we came to the North-East- end, but found no Ground ; the Canoas still accompanying us ; and the Bays were covered with Men going along as we sailed : Many of them strove to swim ofF to us, but we left them astern. Being at the North-East Point, we found a strong Current setting to the North- West ; so that though we had steered to keep under the high Island, yet we were driven towards the flat one. At this time 3 of the Natives came aboard : I gave each of them a Knife, a Looking- Glass, and a String of Beads. I shew'd them Pumpkins and Coco-nut shells, and made Signs to them to bring some aboard, and had presently 3 Coco-nuts out of one of the Canoas. I shew'd them Nut-megs, and by their Signs I guess*d they had some on the Island. I also shew'd them some Gold-Dust, which they seem'd to know, and call'd out Manned^ Manned^ and pointed towards the Land. A while after these Men were gone, 2 or 3 Canoas came from the flat Island, and by Signs invited us to their Island ; at which the others seem'd displeas'd, and us'd very menadi^ Gestures and (I believe) Sf)eeches to each other. Night coming on, we stood oflF to Sea; and having but little Wind all Night, were driven away to the North-West We saw many great Fires on the flat Island. These last Men that came off^ to us, were all black, as those we had seen before, with frizled Hair : They were very tall, lusty, well-shap'd Men ; They wear great things in their Noses, and paint as the others, but not much ; They make the same Signs of Friendship, and their Language seems to be one : But the others had Proes, and these Canoas. On the Sides of some of these, we saw the Figures of several Fish neatly cut ; and these last were not so shy as the others. Steering away from Cave's Island South-South-East, 530 ST. JOHNS ISLAND— THE MAIN wc fuuml a strong Current against us, wludi set naif tome places in Streams ; and \a them we snr Busy Trees 'T* and Lngs of Wood, which drove fay ol We lad bat little Wood aboard ; wfaerefocc I botsted oat ibe Kaoace, and sent her to take up some of this Drtft-vood. In a little time she came aboard with a great Tice in a tow, which we could hardly hotsr in with al) oor Tackkm. We cut up the Tree and split it for Flrc-w-ood. It wis modi worm-eaten, and had in tt some lire Worms above an Indi long, and about the btgne«s of i GcKHe-(|uiU, aad faariag their I^fcads crusted over with a ihsD SbeU. After this we fussed hj an Island, called bf ibc Dotcb St. John's Inland, leaving it to the North of a>. It is about 9 or to leagues round, aod very well adom'd with lofty Trees. Wc saw many Plaotatioas on the Sidct of the Mills, and Abundance of Coco-nut-Trees about tbcro ; as also thick Groves on the Bays by the Sea-tide. As we came near it, 3 Canuas came off 10 us, but would not come aboard, ^facy were such as we had teen about the other islands : bey spoke the same Language, and made the wame S^|m ' Peace ; and their Canoos were such, as at Cave's Islaad, We stood along by St. John's bland, till we came icst to the South-Hasi-Point ; and then leeit^ no more mds to the Eastward of us, nor any likelihood of iioring under thts, 1 steer'd away for the Main of Ncw- Inea; we being now (as 1 soppoa'd) to the Ease of it, this Nonh-ndc. My De^n of seeing these lilands as ■St along, «-as to get Wood and Water, but could find Anchor-Ground, and therefore could not do as I pur- rd. Besides, these Ulands arc all so populous, that I ''d not send my Boat ashore, unle«s 1 could have anchr^'d tty nigh. Wherefore I rather chotc to proiecute my lign on the Main, the Season of the Year being now at id ; for I judg'd the Westerly Winds were nigh spent. On the Hth of March, we Mw some Smoaks on the lin, being distant from it 4 or 5 Leagues. Tis very h, woody Land, with some Spots uf Savannah. About in the Morning 6 or 7 Canoaa came off* to ui : M<i»t of m ha d no more than one Man in them ; they were ill 53» n CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. black, with short curl'd Hair ; having the same Ornaments '700 in their Noses, and their Heads so shav'd and painted, and speaking the same Words, as the Inhabitants of Cave's Island before-mentioned. There was a Head-land^ to the Southward of us, beyond which seeing no Land, I supposed that from thence the Land trends away more Westerly. This Head-land lies in the Latitude of 5 deg. 2 min. South, and Meridian distance from Cape Mabo, 1290 Miles. In the Night wc lay by, for fear of over-shooting this Head-land. Between which and Cape St. Maries,* the Land is high, Mountainous and Woody; having many Points of Land shooting out into the Sea, which make so many fine Bays. The Coast lies North-North-East and South-South- West. The 9th in the Morning a huge black Man came off to us in a Canoa, but would not come aboard. He made the same signs of Friendship to us, as the rest wc had met with ; yet seem'd to differ in his Language, not using any of those Words which the others did. We saw neither Smoaks nor Plantations near this Head-land. We found here Variation i deg. East. In the Afternoon, as we plied near the Shore, 3 Canoas came off to us ; one had 4 Men in her, the others 2 apiece. That with the 4 Men, came pretty nigh us, and shew'd us a Coco-Nut and Water in a Bamboo, making Signs that there was enough ashore where they liv'd ; they pointed to the place where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a small round pretty high Island about a League to the North of this Head-land, within which there was t large deep Bay, whither the Canoas went; and we strove to get thither before Night, but could not ; wherefore vc stood off, and saw Land to the Westward of this Head- Land, bearing West by South half South, distance about 10 Leagues; and, as we thought, still more Land bearing South- West by South, distance 12 or 14 Leagues: But being clouded, it disappeared, and we thought we had been deceived. Before Night we opened the Head-Land fair, ' Cape St. George. ' Cape Santa Maria, farther to the N. 532 THE MAIN LAND OF NEW GUINEA njmed it Cape St. George, The Land from hence a s away West-North-West about lo Leagues, which '' U far as we could see it ; and the Land that we saw the Westward of it in the Evening, which bore West South half South, was another Point about lo Leagues im Cape St. Gcor^ ; between which there runs in a deep y for 20 Leagues or more. We saw some high Land in X>t3 tike Islands, down in that Bay at a great distance ; ;t whether they arc Islands, or the Main closing there, know not. The next Morning we saw other Land to Souih-Easi of the Wcstermost Point, which tili then > clouded ; it was very high Land, and the same that saw the day before, that disappear'd in a Cloud. This ■pe St. George lies in the Latitude of 5 dcg. 5 miD. ith ; and Meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1290 liles. The Island off this Cape, I called St. George's ':;' and the Bay between it and the West-Point, I ned St. George's Bay. Note, No Dutch Draughu go far as this Cape, by 10 Leagues. On the icth in the yening, we gat within a League of the Wcstermost I^nd ai, which is pretty high and very woody, but no Appear- ce fi{ Anchoring. 1 stood off again, designing (if ponble) ply lu and fro in this Bay, till 1 found a Convenicncy to 'ood and Water. We saw no more Plantations, »or Ko-nut-Trccs ; yet in the Night we diKcrned a small 'in: right against us. The next Morning we saw a Bum* Mountain in the Country. It was round, high, and at top (as most Vulcano's are), and sent forth a cat Quantity of Smoak. We t»x>kupa I>og of drift Wood d split it for Firing ; in which we found some small Fish. The Day after, we past by the South-Wcst Cape <>( th» J, leaving it to the North of us : When we were abreavt it, I called my Officers tr^ethcr. and named it Cape Word,' in Honoar of my noble Patron ; drinking hU Watlu I lUnd- Tlw hay k, of cownc. ^ Ceonc't QwmmI. Ednnl Riuicll, Lard OttotO, Axbatnl of the flM liUy nn) « Inwu) " al a ufirntnc con^kwm, iadi«ia« to bl 1 of a m*lUm tUtmtx." ■omauutAtd tlw BritUi aeO m Um Mcradoa* Mgiiam iM VntteU (nA<1*r Came dt T(Mn41k) in Hajr, 1693. Hcww rm Lvnl «/ llw A4MmHr ■konly after Daaipwr bad aaibd m ilwa mftikiam- 533 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. into the Inhabitants, who were very numerous, and (by ^700 what I saw now, and had formerly experienc'd), treacherous. After this I sent my Boat to sound ; they had first 40, then 30, and at last 20 Fathom Water. We followed the Boat, and came to anchor about a quarter of a Mile from the Shore, in 26 Fathom Water, fine black Sand and Oazc We rode right against the Mouth of a small River, where I hoped to find fresh Water. Some of the Natives stand- ing on a small Point at the River's Mouth, I sent a small Shot over their Heads to fright them ; which it did eflfectu- ally. In the Afternoon I sent my Boat ashore to the Natives who stood upon the Point by the River's Mouth with a Present of Coco-nuts; when the Boat was come near the Shore, they came running into the Water, and put their Nuts into the Boat. Then I made a Signal for the Boat to come aboard, and sent both it and the Yawl into the River to look for fresh Water, ordering the Pinnace to lye near the River's Mouth, while the Yawl went up to search. In an Hour's time they return'd aboard with some Barrecoes full of fresh Water, which they had taken up about half a Mile up the River. After which, I sent them again with Casks ; ordering one of them to fill Water, and the other to watch the Motion of the Natives, lest they should make any Opposition ; but they did not, and so the Boats return'd a little before Sun-set with a Tun and half of Water; and the next Day by Noon brought aboard about 6 Tun of Water. I sent ashore Commodities to purchase Hogs, &c. being informed that the Natives have plenty of them, as also of Yamms and other good Roots ; But my Men returned without getting any thing that I sent them for; the Natives being unwilling to trade with us : Yet they admirM our Hatchets and Axes; but would part with nothing but Coco-nuts; which they us'd to climb the Trees for; and so soon as they gave them our Men, they beckon'd to them to be gone ; for they were much afraid of us. The 1 8th, I sent both Boats again for Water, and before Noon they had filled all my Casks. In the After- noon I sent them both to cut Wood ; but seeing about S3^ THE INHABITANTS OF NEW GUINEA > Natives standing on the Bay at a small Distance from W Men, I made a Signal for them to come aboard again; ' fcich they did, and brought me Word that the Men which e saw on the Bay were jiassing that way, but were afraid lo come nigh thera. At 4 a Clock I sent both the Boats again for more Wood, and they return'd in the Evening. ^liien I called my Officers to consult whether it were hpnvcnicnt 10 suy here longer, and endeavour a better Kcquaintance with these People ; or go to Sea. My ^)csign of tarrying here longer, was, if possible, to get some Hogs, Goats, Yamms or other Roots; as also to get some Knowledge of the Country and its Product. ply Officers unanimously gave their Opinions for slaying hngcr here. So the next Day I sent both Boats ashore nun, to fish and to cut more Wood. While they were Tlahore about 30 or 40 Men and Women past by them ; they were a little afraid of our People at first ; but upon ihcir making signs of Friendship, they past by quietly; the Men finely bcdcck'd with Feathers of divers Colours about their Heads, and Lances in their Hands ; the Women had no Ornament about them, nor any Thing 10 cover their Nakedness, but a Bunch of small green Boughs, before and behind, stuck under a String which came round their Wastes. They carried lai^c Baskets on their Heads, full of Yamms. And this I have observ'd amongst all the wild Natives I have known, that they make their Women carry the Burdens, while the Men walk before, without any other Load than their Arms and Ornaments. At Noon our Men came aboard with the Wood they had cut, and had catch'd but 6 Fishes at ■ or 5 Hauls of the Sain, though we saw Abundance of Rlh leaping in the Bay all the Day long. f In the Afternoon I sent the Boats ashore for more VVood ; and some of our Men went to the Natives Houses, and found they were now more shy than they us'd to be; had taken down alt the Coco-nuts from the Trees, and driven away their Hogs. Our People mode Signs to them to know what was become of their H(^, fltc. The Natives pointing to some Houses in the Bottom 537 CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. Sorts. Many of them were now about the Houses, and '7^ none ofFer'd to resist our Boats landing, but on the con- trary were so amicable, that one Man brought lo or 12 Coco-nuts, left them on the Shore after he had shew'd them to our Men, and went out of Sight. Our People finding nothing but Nets and Images, brought some of them away; which 2 of my Men brought aboard in a small Canoa; and presently after, my Boats came off. I order'd the Boatswain to take care of the Nets, till wc came at some place where they might be disposed of for some Refreshment for the Use of all the Company: The Images I took into my own Custody. In the Afternoon I sent the Canoa to the Place fi-om whence she had been brought; and in her, 2 Axes, 2 Hatchets (one of them helv*d), 6 Knives, 6 Looking-glasses, a large Bunch of Beads, and 4 Glass-bottles. Our Men drew the Canoa ashore, placed the Things to the best Ad- vantage in her, and came off in the Pinnace which I sent to guard them. And now being well stocked with Wood, . and all my Water-casks full, I resolvM to sail the next Morning. All the Time of our Stay here, we had very fair Weather; only sometimes in the Afternoon we had a Shower of Rain, which lasted not above an Hour at most : Also some Thunder and Lightning, with very little Wind. We had Sea and Land-breezes ; the former between the South-South-East, and the latter from North-East to North-West. This Place I named Port Mountague,^ in Honour of my noble Patron. It lies in the Latitude of 6 deg. 10 min. South, and Meridian distance from Cape St. George, 151 Miles West. The Country hereabouts is mountainous and woody, full of rich Valleys and pleasant fresh Water-brooks. The Mould in the Valleys is deep and yellowish ; that on the Sides of the Hills of a very brown Colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath ; yet excellent planting * The fine bay between Cape Dam pier and Roebuck Point, on the S. coast of New Britain (New Pomerania). The noble patron was Charles Montague, Earl of Halifax (1661-1715), sometime Chancellor of the Ex- chequer. 540 THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA l»d. The Trees in general are neither very streight, an. ick, nor tall; yet appear green and pleasant enough: ''"^ mc of them bore Flowers, some Berries, and others big liits; but all unknown to any of us. Coco-nut-Trees rive very well here; as well on the Bays by the Sea-side, mure remote among the Plantations. The Nuts are of indifferent Size, the Milk and Kernel very thick and asant. Here is Ginger, Yanims, and other very good ots for the Hot, thai our Men saw and tasted. What her Fruits or Roots the Country affords, 1 know not. arc Hogs and Dt^s ; other Land-Animals we saw The Fowls we saw and knew, were Pidgeons, rrots, Cockadores and Crows like those in England ; a of Birds about the Bigness of a Black-Bird, and iller Birds many. The Sea and Rivers have Plenty Fish ; wc saw Abundance, though we catch'd but r, ind these were Cavalties, Yellow-tails and Whip- We departed from hence on the 22d of March, and t the 24th in the Evening we saw some high Land bcar- ; North-Wcst half West ; to the West of which wc could : no Land, though there appeared something like Land Sring West a little Southerly ; but not being sure of it. Steered West -North- West all Night, and kept going on ith an easy Sail, intending to coast along the Shore at a istancc. At 10 a Clock I saw a great Fire bearing North- Test by West, blazing up in a Pillar, sometimes very high ' 3 ur 4 Minutes, then falling quite down for an equal ice of Time; sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up lin. I had laid mc down having been indisposed ihis 3 lys : But upon a Sight of this, my chief Mate called me ; got up and view'd it for about half an Hour, and knew to be a burning Hill by its Intervals: I charg'd them I look Well nut, having bright Moon-light. In the Mom- I found that the Fire wc had seen the Night before, I a burning Island ; ' and stcer'd for it. We saw many l&bads, one large high Island, and another smaller, * Tbm ti a imiall active volcano on Ritier Uland in Uampier Slnil, I iMt KMjr have been the one described. i*' CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. very well inhabited with strong well-limb*d Negroes, whom ^700 ^g found very daring and bold at several Places. As to the Product of it, I know no more than what I have said in my Account of Port Mountague : But it is very probable this Island may afford as many rich Commodities as any in the World ; and the Natives may be easily brought to Commerce, though I could not pretend to it under my present Circum- stances. Being near the Island to the Northward of the Volcano, I sent my Boat to sound, thinking to anchor here ; but she returned and brought me Word that they had no Ground, till they met with a RifF of Coral Rocks about a Mile from the Shore. Then I bore away to the North-side of the Island, where we found no anchoring neither. We saw several People, and some Coco-nut-Trees, but could not send ashore for want of my Pinnace which was out of order. In the Evening I stood off to Sea, to be at such a distance, that I might not be driven by any Current upon the Shoals of this Island, if it should prove calm. We had but little Wind, especially the Beginning of the Night ; but in the Morning I found my self so far to the West of the Island, that the Wind being at East-South-East, I could not fetch it ; wherefore I kept on to the Southward, and stemm'd with the Body of a high Island about] 11 or 12 Leagues long, lying to the Southward of that which I before designed for. I named this Island Sir George Rook's ^ Island. We also saw some other Islands to the Westward; which may be better seen in my Draught of these Lands, than here described. But seeing a very small Island ' lying to the North- West of the long Island which was before us, and not far from it ; I steerM away for that ; hoping to find anchoring there : And having but little Wind, I sent my Boat before to sound ; which, when we were about 2 Miles distance from the Shore, came on Board and brought me Word that there was good anchoring in 30 or 40 * Rook Island. Sir George Rooke (1650-1709) was lieutenant aboard Sir Edward Spragge's flagship, the Royal Prince^ during Dampier*s service aboard her against the Dutch, in 1673. ^^ became one of the Lords of the Admirahy a short time before the Roebuck left England. ^ A little island off Lottin Island. 544 Wr THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA Bhom Water, a Mile from the Isle, and within a Riff of an. he Rocks which lay in a half Moon, reaching from the '^°° lorth-part of the Island to the South-East ; so at Noon ttgot in and anchored in 36 Fathom, a Mile from the Isle. ft In the Afternoon I sent my Boat ashore to the Island, bee what Convenience there was to haul our Vessel ashore Porder to be mended, and whether we could catch any 'ish. My Men in the Boat rowed about the Island, but ould not land by Reason of the Rocks and a great Surge jUUiing in upon the Shore. We found Variation here, 8 II 25 min. West. p I dcsign'd to have stay'd among these Islands till I had n my Pinnace refitted ; but having no more than one 4*n who had skill to work upon her, I saw she would be long Time in Repairing ; (which was one great Reason 'hy I could not prosecute my Discoveries further :) And ic Easterly Winds being set in, I found I should scarce be ble to hold my Ground. The 31SI in the Forenoon we shot in between 2 Islands, ring about 4. Leagues asunder; with Intention to pass Btween ihem. The Southcrmosc is a long Island, with a igh Hill at each End; this I named Long Island. The lorthermosi is a round high Island towering up with tvcral Heads or Tops, something resembling a Crown; lis I named Crown-Isle, from its Form. Both these lUnds appear'd very pleasant, having Spots of green ivmnnahs mixt among the Wood-land : The Trees appeared cry cp%cn and flourishing, and some of them looked white ad mil of Blossoms. We past close by Crown-Isle ; saw lany Coco-nut-Trccs on the Bays and the Sides of the lills; and one Boat was coming off from the Shore, but rtum'd again. We saw no Smoaks on cither of the Islands, cither did we sec any Plantations; and it is probable they ■c not very well peopled. We saw many Shoals near rown-lsland, and Riffs of Rocks running off from the cttnts, a Mile or more into the Sea. My Boat was once aboard, with Design to have sent her ashore ; but hg little Wind, and seeing some Shoals, I hoisted her UR, and stood off out of Danger. ^t. It. 545 ^ M CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. In the Afternoon, seeing an Island bearing North-Wcst 1700 by West, we steer*d away North-West by North, to be to the Northward of it. The next Morning, being about Mid-way from the Islands we left Yesterday, and having this to the Westward of us ; the Land of the Main of New Guinea within us to the Southward, appeared very high. When we came within 4 or 5 Leagues of this Island to the West of us, 4 Boats came off to view us ; one came within call, but returned with the other 3 without speaking to us : So we kept on for the Island ; which I named Sir R. Rich's^ Island. It was pretty high, woody, and mixt with Savan- nah's like those formerly mentioned. Being to the North of it, we saw an Opening between it and another Island^ 2 Leagues to the West of it, which before appear d all in One. The Main seemed to be high Land, trending to the Westward. On Tuesday the 2d April, about 8 in the Morning, we discovered a high peeked Island^ to the Westward, which seem'd to smoak at its Top. The next Day we past by the North-side of the Burning Island, and saw a Smoak again at its Top ; but the Vent lying on the South-side of the Peek, we could not observe it distinctly, nor sec the Fire. We afterwards opened 3 more Islands, and some Land to the Southward, which we could not well tell whether it were Islands or Part of the Main. These Islands are all high, full of fair Trees and Spots of green Savannahs; as well the Burning Isle as the rest; but the Burning Isle was more round and peek'd at Top, very fine Land near the Sea, and for two Thirds up it. We also saw another Isle sending forth a great Smoak at once ; but it soon vanished, and we saw it no more. We saw also among these Islands 3 small Vessels with Sails, which the People on Nova Britannia seem wholly ignorant of. The 1 1 th at Noon, having a very good Observation, I ' After Sir Robert Rich, a Lord of the Admiralty. Sir Robert was descended from the family of Rich, earls of Warwick and Holland. The island retains its name. * Probably the SE. extremity of Rich Island. The island is crescent- shaped, with a deep gut forming a harbour on the S£. side. ^ Dampier Island. 546 THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA und my self to the Northward of my Reckoi ing and thence concluded that we had a Current setting North- ' West, or rather more Westerly, as the Land lies. From that Time to the next Morning, we had fair clear Weather, and a fine moderate Gale from South-Kast to East by North : But at Daybreak, the Clouds began to fly, and it lighlncd very much in the East, South-East, and North- East. At Sun-rising, the Sky look'd very red in the East near the Horizon ; and there were many black Clouds both to the South and North of it. About a Quarter of an ■Hour after the Sun was up, there was a Squall to the ^M^indwtrd of us; when on a sudden one of our Men on ■ the Fore-castle called out that he saw something astern, but could not tell what : I look'd out for it, and immediately saw a Spout beginning to work within a Quarter of a Mile of us, exactly in the Wind. We presently put right before it. It came very swiftly, whirling the Water up in a Pillar about 6 or 7 Yards high. As yet I could not see any —pendulous Cloud, from whence it might come ; and was in Hnopcs it would soon lose its Force. In 4 or 5 Minutes Hrime, it came within a Cable's Length of us, and past ^■way to Leeward: and then I saw a long pale Stream, coming down to the whirling Water. This Stream was about the Bigness of a Rainbow: The upper End seem'd vastly high, not descending from any dark Cloud, and therefore the more strange to me ; I never having seen the like before. It past about a Mile to Leeward of us, and then broke. This was but a small Spout, not strong nor lasting : yet I perceived much Wind in it, as it past by us. The Current still continued at North-Wcst 1 little Westerly, which I allow'd to run a Mile per Hour. By an Observation the 13th at Noon, 1 found my self 15 min. to the Northward of my Reckoning; whether occasion *d by bad Steerage, a bad Account, or a Current, I could not determine ; but was apt to judge it might be a Complication of all ; for I could not think it was wholly the Current, the Land here lying I'^asi by South, and West by North, or a little more Northerly and Southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it, and at farthest had not been 547 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. above 20 Leagues from it, but sometimes much nearer; '700 and it is not probable that any Current should set directly ofF from a Land. A Tide indeed may; but then the Flood has the same Force to strike in upon the Shore, as the Ebb to strike off from it : But a Current must have set nearly along Shore, either Easterly or Westerly; and if anything Northerly or Southerly, it could be but very little in Comparison of its East or West Course, on a Coast lying as this doth ; which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a Current, it is very probable that the Land is here disjoyn'd, and that there is a Passage through to the Southward, and that the Land from King William's Cape to this Place is an Island, separated from New-Guinea by some Streight, as Nova -Britannia is by that which we came through. But this being at best but a probable Conjecture, I shall insist no farther upon it. The 14th we passed by Scou ten's Island and Providence Island, and found still a very strong Current setting to the North-West. On the 17th we saw a high Mountain on the Main, that sent forth great Quantities of Smoak from its Top : This Vulcano we did not see on our Voyage out. In the Afternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the Sail we could, to get near it before Night; thinking to lye to the Eastward of it till Day, for fear of some Shoals that lye at the West-end of it. Before Night we got within 2 Leagues of it, and having a fine Gale of Wind and a light Moon, I resolv'd to pass through in the Night ; which I hop'd to do before 1 2 a-Clock, if the Gale continued ; but when we came within 2 Miles of it, it fell calm ; yet afterwards by the Help of the Current, a small Gale, and our Boat, we got through before Day. In the Night we had a very fragrant Smell from the Island. By Morning-light we were got 2 Leagues to the Westward of it ; and then were becalm'd all the Morning ; and met such whirling Tides, that when we came into them, the Ship turn'd quite round ; and though sometimes we had a small Gale of Wind, yet she could not feel the Helm when she came into these Whirlpools : Neither could we get from amongst them, till a brisk Gale sprung up ; yet we drove 548 HIRLPOOLS— COAST OF NEW GUINEA t much any way, but whirt'd round like a Top. And an, xc Whirlpools were not constant in one Place, but drove ' >ut strangely; and sometimes we saw among them large plings of the Water, like great Over-falls, making a fearful lisc. I sent my Boat to sound, but found no Ground. The 1 8th, Cape Mabo hore S, distance 9 Leagues. By lich Account it lies in the Latitude of 50 min. South, 1 Meridian distance from Cajie S. George 1243 Miles. John's Isle lies 48 Miles to the East of Cape St. George ; ich being added to the Distance between Cape St. George 1 Cape Mabo, makes 1291 Meridional Parts ; which s the furthest that 1 was to the East. In my outward and Voyage 1 made Meridian distance between Cape ibo and Ope St. George, 1290 Miles; and now in my :um, but 1243 ; which is 47 short of my distance going - This Difference may probably be occasion 'd by the oog Western Current which we found in our Return, ach I allowed for after I perceiv'd it ; and though we I not discern any Current when we went to the East- rd, except when near the Islands; yet it is probable we ] one against us, though we did not take Notice of it lUK of the strong Westerly Winds. King William's ltd lies in the Latitude of 21 Min. South, and may be II distinctly off of Cape Mabo. In the Evening we past by Cape Mabo ; and afterwards tr'd away Soulh-East, half East, keeping along the wv, which here trends South-easterly. I'hc next Morn- teeing a large Opening in the Land, with an Island r the South-side ; I stood in, thinking to anchor there. Itcn we were shot in within two leagues of the Island, Wind came to ihc West, which blows right into the ening, I stood to the North Shore ; intending, when I w pretty nigh to send my Boat into the Opening, and ind, before I would adventure in. We found several deep n, but no Soundings within 2 Miles of the Shore ; there- E I stocxt off again. Then seeing a Ripling under our ^ I sent my Boat to sound on it ; which return 'd in half Hour, and brought me Word that the Kipling we saw I only I Tide, and that they had no Ground there. 549 CHAP. V The Ah return from the Coast of New-Guinea. A deep ChanneL Strange Tides, The Island Ceram described. Strange Fowls, The Islands Bonao^ Bouroy Misacombij Pentarej LaubanOy and Potoro, The Passage between Pentare and Laubana. The Island Timor, Babao Bay. The Island Rotte, More Islands than an commonly laid down in the Draughts. Great Currents. tVhaln. . Coast of New-Holland. The Tryal-Rocks. The Coast of Jam. Princes Isle. Streights of Sunda. Thwart-the-way Island, Indian ProeSy and their Traffick. Passage through the Streight. Arrival at Batavia. ^HE Wind seeming to incline to East, as might be expected according to the Season of the Year ; I rather chose to shape my Course as these Winds would best permit, than strive to return the same way we came; which, for many Leagues, must have been against this Monsoon : Though indeed on the other hand, the Dangers in that way, we already knew; but what might be in this, by which we now proposed to return, we could not tell. We were now in a Channel about 8 or 9 Leagues wide, having a Range of Islands on the North-side, and another on the South-side, and very deep Water between, so that we had no Ground. The 22d of April in the Morning, I sent my Boat ashore to an Island on the North-side, and stood that way with the Ship. They found no Ground till within a Cable's length of the Shore, and then had Coral Rocks ; so that they could not catch any Fish, though they saw a great many. They brought aboard a small Canoa, which they found a-drift. They met with no Game ashore, save only one party-colour*d Parrakite. The Land is of an indifferent Height ; very Rocky, yet cloathed with 550 .1 M I n m I ni STRANGE TIDES ill Trees, whose hare Roots res mjosj^ xpot tae R'r a c? «: Kit People saw a Pood of Salt W lear this Island we met a cither Tide nor Current On the 24th, being aboct 2 Lck^ss ttzjcl sx jsfissc he Southward of us, we came GPs^er a Sbc&l ut 5 Fathom and a half. We i5d xn p &w the Ground under us. In ssm he Boat had been sounding zn iscTM'jnr Ground. We manned the Boer hip about ; and then sooaiisg. id then no Ground whh ocr as rockv ; but in 1 2 and i c ¥r±rjsL w* iai :«n firviac We found here very strange Tiiss. tic nsL it 5rr»aai&, aking a great Sea ; and roor^sg v^ yj:jt^ zzae: wt vjLst ?ar them before ther came wr^rrr a >ILe cc 1.1 T'rit Vsa »und about them seem*d ail brrjrrr, irai t'-«rsi '::i:e Scr;. > that she would not answer ficr H^V T'z*!*!: iCrJjjrjgx >mmonly lasted 10 or 12 still and smooth as a ^^Li-prjcxL W* sciirairt 'jf'-er. hen in the midst of them, a2>d aftsnraris ri tie t&vri ^ater ; but found no Ground, rarT^rtr c-XmaI •»* vtrtcrr^ lat they drove us any way. We had in one Night iereral of ticit Tjd*!. Tjit ti-r^t lost of them from the WeK ; a:i.d ti:«t 'A'jui '^^.rxi rV'jci lat Quarter, we commoniy beard tier:: i >jrjg - :.r:it vrfor* ley came ; and sometimes iowertd ccr T^c^--ta;.«i r';tc.r>^ was a Gust of Wind. Tfaer were ^^' srr^ar ^^xr'. ir^j^ I'orth to South, but their brsadth n.v: ext.tertrr::?' :.->'^ yt?":t. id they drove a great pace : F^jt tr,',cigr- -»* rri.-: ,^**;^ (Tind to move us, vet these wx.;*! v>vr' '^ki \'m^y, a.v: ave the Water very smooth ; %rA y^v: 'v?t'-r* »^* ^^y^.-^ •ed them, we met a gr*at .Swtii, ':>-t r ->-: r>v! -r-ak. The 26th we saw the h;2r.i Ctnrr. ; aru-: t- .. --^r v.rr>» liplings, but much fainter than -ho^ T.e r.^.-: •'>•: i j,--e- reding Days. We saifd aior.^ t.-:>t Ii 1%^ ^./^%r. •f, •*^, iTestward, edging in witha!. v. vrr, r :>?-».: /--.• .r* *>• light find a Harbour to ar.cr.or ';r., »v^* w* rr. y, atcr, trim the Ship, and refr*:sh ^j^-;r M^., 55' " </« * CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. In the Morning wc saw a Sail to the North of us, '7°° steering in for the West-end of Ceram, as we likewise were. In the Evening, being near the Shore on the North-side of the Island, I stood off to Sea with an easy Sail ; intending to stand in for the Shore in the Morning, and try to find Anchoring, to fill Water, and get a little Fish for refresh- ment. Accordingly in the Morning early, I stood in with the North- West point of Ceram; leaving a small Island, called Bonao/ to the West. The Sail we saw the Day before, was now come pretty nigh us, steering in also (aswc did) between Ceram and Bonao. I shortned Sail a little for him ; and when he got abreast of us, not above 2 Miles off, I sent my Boat aboard. It was a Dutch Sloop, come from Teranate,* and bound for Amboyna : * My Men whom I sent in the Boat, bought 5 Bags of new Rice, each con- taining about 130 pounds, for 6 Spanish Dollars. The Sloop had many rare Parrots aboard for Sale, which did not want price. A Malayan Merchant aboard, told our Men, that about 6 Months ago he was at Bencola,* and at that time the Governour either dyed or was kill'd, and that the Commander of an English Ship then in that Road succeeded to that Government. In the Afternoon, having a Breeze at North and North- North-East, I sent my Boat to sound, and standing after her with the Ship, anchored in 30 Fathom Water oazy Sand, half a Mile from the Shore, right against a small River of fresh Water. The next Morning I sent both the Boats ashore to Fish ; they returned about 10 a-Clock, with a few Mullets and 3 or 4 Cavallies, and some Pan-Fish. Wc found Variation here, 2 deg. 15 min. East. When the Sea was smooth by the Land- Winds, we sent our Boats ashore for Water; who, in a few Turns, filled all our Casks. The Land here is low, swampy and woody ; the Mould is a dark Grey, friable Earth. Two Rivers came out ^ Banoa. • Between Celebes and Gilolo. ' To the S W. of Ceram. * Benkulen. The governor was Dampier's old enemy, mentioned in the other volumes. 552 I STRANGE FOWLS Ethtn a Bow-shot of each other, just opposite to the place . Bfacre we rode : One comes right down out of the Country ; ' ■kI the other from the South, running along by the Shore, kt Musquet-shot from the Sea-side. The Northermost Bvcr is biggest, and out of it we filled our Water; our ■Dats went in and out at any time of I'idc. In some ^aces the Land is overflown with fresh Water, at full Sea. The Land hereabouts is full of Trees unknown to us, but none of them very large or high ; the Woods yield many lid Fruits and Berries, such as I never saw elsewhere. fie met with no Land-Animals. The Fowls we found, tre Pidgcons, Parrots, Cockadores, and a great number small Birds unknown to me. One of the Master's latcs killed 2 Fowls as big as Crows; of a black Colour, ;ccpting that the Tails were all white. Their Necks Ere pretty long, one of which was of a Saffron-colour, c other Black. They had very large Bills, much like a ims-horn ; their Legs were strong and Short, and their iws like a Pidgeon's; their Wings of an ordinary length : 'ct they make a great Noise when they fly, which they do cry heavily. They feed on Berries, and perch on the Ighcst Trees. Their Flesh is sweet : I saw some of the me Species at New-Guinea, but no where else. May the 3d, at 6 in the Morning we weighed, intend- l to pass between Bnnao and Ccram ; but presently after : got under Sail, we saw a pretty large Proc coming about c North- West-point of Ceram. Wherefore I stood to c North to speak with her, putting abroad our F.nsign. c seeing us coming that way, went into a small Creek, d skulked behind a Point a while: At last discovering r again, i sent my Boat to speak with her; hut the Proc w'a away, and would not come nigh it. After this, iding 1 could not pass between Bonao and Ceram, as I lirposed ; I steer'd away to the North of it. > Thb Bonao is a small Island, lying about 4 Leagues 'HI the North-Wcst Point of Ccram. I was Inform'd by : Dutch Slo<ip bcfnrc-mentioned, that notwithstanding smallncKS, it hath one lim- River, and that the Dutch ; there settled. Whether there be any Natives on it, or 553 J CAPTAIN DAM PIER'S VOYAGES AN. After Noon, being near the end of the Isle Pentare, 1700 which lies West from Misacomby, we saw many Houses and Plantations in the Country, and many Coco-nut-Trces growing by the Sea-side. We also saw several Boats sailing • cross a Bay or Channel at the West-end of Misacomby, between it and Pentare. We had but little Wind, and that at North, which blows right in, with a Swell rowling in withal ; wherefore I was afraid to venture in, though probably there might be good Anchoring, and a Commerce with the Natives. I continued steering to the West, because the Night before, at Sun-setting, I saw a small round high Island to the West of Pentare, where I expected a good Passage. We could not that Day reach the West-end of Pentare, but saw a deep Bay to the West of us, where I thought might be a Passage through, between Pentare and Laubana. But as yet the L^nds were shut one within an other, that we could not see any Passage. Therefore I ordered to sail 7 Leagues more Westerly, and lye by till next Day. In the Morning we looked out for an Opening, but could see none ; yet by the distance and bearing of a high round Island called Potoro, we were got to the West of the Opening, but not far from it. Wherefore 1 tack'd and stood to the East ; and the rather, because I had reason to suppose this to be the Passage we came through in the Cygnet mentioned in my ** Voyage round the World '* ; but I was not yet sure of it, because we had rainy Weather, so that we could not now see the Land so well as we did then. We then accidentally saw the Opening, at our first falling in with the Islands; which now was a Work of some time and difficulty to discover. However before 10 a Clock we saw the Opening plain; and I was the more confirm'd in my Knowledge of this Passage, by a Spit of Sand and 2 Islands at the North-East part of its Entrance. The Wind was at South-South-West, and we plied to get through before Night ; for we found a good Tide helping us to the South. About 7 or 8 Leagues to the West of us we saw a high round piked Mountain, from whose Top a Smoak seem'd to ascend 556 THE ISLAND PENTARE Irom a Vulcano. There were 3 other very high piked iDuiitains, 2 on the Esst, and i on the West of that ' ch smoaked. In our plying to get through between Pentare and ihana, we had (as I said) a good Tide or Current setting to the Southward. And it is to be observed, that near Shores in these Parts we commonly find a Tide setting rthwardly or Southwardly, as the Land lyes; but the rthwardly Tide sets not above 3 Hours in 12, having Ic strength ; and sometimes it only checks the contrary rent, which runs with great Violence, especially in Passes, such as this, between 2 Islands. It was ■I Night before we got clear of t other small Islands, ; lay on the South-side of the Passage; and there we a very violent Tide setting us through against a brisk E of Wind. Notwithstanding which, I kept the Pinnace , for fear wc should be bccalm'd. For this is the same ;e, through which I passed in the Year 1687, mentioned ay " Voyage round the World " (pag. 449}. Only then came out between the Western small Island and ibana, and now we came through between the two It Islands. We sounded frequently, but had no tmnd. I said there, that we came through between iba and Pentare: I*'or wc did not then see the Opening ccn those 1 Islands ; which made me take the West- of Pentare for the West-end of Omba, and Laubana Pentare. But now we saw the Opening between Omba Pentare ; which was so narrow, that I would not ure through : Besides, 1 had now discovered my nd hop'd to meet with the other Passage again, indeed we did, and found it to be bjld from Side to :, which in the former Voyage I did not know. After were through, we made the best of our way to Timor; on May the 18th in the Morning, wc saw it plain, made the high Land over Laphao the Portugueze :ory, u also tne high Peak over our first Watering- e, and a small round Island about mid-way between We ccttstod along the Island Timor, intending to 557 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S AN. West of Timor ; But being got so 1700 were, though there may be a very grca not seem probable to me that it sh Strength as we now found : For both lose their Force in the open Sea, whert spread; and it is only in narrow PI lands, that their Force is chiefly fe Opinion, it should here rather set to t! being open to the narrow Sea, that <j from the Range of Islands before-meni The 27th, we found that in the 1; gone 9 Miles less South than the Lc probable we were then out of the Sou we felt so much before. We saw about us. And found Variation ! deg On June the rst, we saw several had at this Time seen on the Coast here before, we saw many ; at which ' the Shore than now. The Variation min. West. I design'd to have made New-H Latitude of 20 deg. and steerM Course but in the Night could not be so bold had sounding. This afternoon I steer' 6 a-Ciock ; then it blowing fresh, and steer'd West-South-West, till we hai then stood West, which Course earn the Morning again from 6 to 12 I West, to have made the Land, but, no we were to the West of it. Here is ' on this Coast. When we past this w we had, near this Latitude of 19 deg. about 1 8 Leagues from the Land : Bu not the Land. The next Morning I Scuttle-Fish-bones, which was a Sign t from the Land. Also a great many floating by us. We found the Variation increase went Westward. For on the 3d, it ' 560 CHANGE IN THE VARIATION est : on the 4th, 6 deg. 20 min. and on the 6th, 7 deg. I min. That Evening we saw some Fowls like Men of ' ar Birds flying Nonh-East, as I was told : for I did not t them, having been indisposed these 3 or 4 Days, On the iith we found the Variation 8 deg. i min. 'est; on the I2th, 6 deg. o min. I kept on my Course the Westward till the 15th, and then altered it. My esign was to seek for the Tryal Rocks ' ; but having been Jt 5 or 6 Days, without any fresh Provision or other (od Nourishment aboard, and seeing no Likelihood of my Kovcry, I rather chose to go to some Port in Time, than best here any longer ; my People being very negligent, IH^ was not upon Deck myself: I found the Winds ^H|JL so that I might go any way. East, West, North, ^^^B; wherefore, its probable I might have found the l^^ocks, had not Sickness prevented me ; which Dis- vcry (when ever made) will be of great use to Merchants iding to these Parts. From hence nothing material happened, till wc came Ejn the Coast of Java. On the 23d we saw Princes-Isie in, and the Mouth of the Streights of Sunda. By my imputation, the Distance between Timor and Princes-Isle, 14 deg. 23 min. The next Day in the Afternoon, being rcast of Crockadore* Island. I stcer'd away East-North- ■st for an Island that lies near Mid-way between Sumatra id Java, hut nearest the Java Shore ; which is by English Icn called Thwart- the- way. We had but small Winds II about 3 a-Clock, when it freshncd, and I was in good [opet 10 pass through before Day : But at 9 a Clock the find fell, and wc got but little. I was then abreast of "hwart-the-way, which is a pretty high long Island; but fore II, the Wind turned, and presently afterward it II calm. I was then about 3 Leagues from the said and; and, having a strong Current aguinst us, before ly we were driven astern 4 or j Leagues. In the Morning ! had the Wind at North- North- West ; it look'd black 56, CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. and the Wind unsettled : So that I could not expect to get *7^ through. I therefore stood toward the Java Shore, and at lo anchored in 24 Fathom Water, black oazy Ground, 3 Leagues from the Shore, I sounded in the Night when it was calm, and had 54 Fathom, coarse Sand and Coral. In the Afternoon before, we had seen many Proes ; but none came off to us ; and in the Night we saw many Fires ashore. This Day a large Proe came aboard of us, and lay by our Side an Hour. There were only 4 Men in her, all Javians, who spoke the Malayan Language. They ask'd if we were English ; I answered, we were ; and pre- sently one of them came aboard, and presented me with a small Hen, some Eggs and Coco-nuts ; for which I gave some Beads and a small Looking-Glass, and some Glass- Bottles. They also gave me some Sugar-Canes, which I distributed to such of my Men as were scorbutick. They told me there were 3 English Ships at Batavia. The 28 th at 2 in the Afternoon we anchored in 26 Fathom Water; presently it fell calm and began to rain very violently, and so continued from 3 till 9 in the Evening. At i in the Morning we weigh'd with a fine Land-wind at South-South-East ; but presently the Wind coming about at East, we anchored ; for we commonly found the Current setting West. If at any Time it tum'd, it was so weak, that it did us little good ; and I did not think it safe to venture through without a pretty brisk leading Gale ; for the Passage is but narrow, and I knew not what Dangers might be in the way, nor how the Tide sets in the Narrow, having not been this way these 28 Years, and all my People wholly Strangers : We had the Opening fair before us. While we lay here, 4 Malayan Proes came from the Shore, laden with Coco-nuts, Plantains, Bonanoes, Fowls, Ducks, Tobacco, Sugar, &c. These were very welcome, and we purchased much Refreshment of them. At 10 a-Clock I dismissed all the Boats, and weighed with the Wind at North- West. At half an Hour past 6 in the Evening, we anchored in 32 Fathom Water in a coarse Sort of Oaze. We were now past the Island Thwart-the- 562 STR.MTS OF SDNDA stilt one of the small Islands to pass. The . run strong to the West ; which fjbligcd me ' _ nchor while 1 had Soundings, for Fear of being driven ■ek again or on some unknown Sand. 1 lay still all ■•ght. At 5 a Clock the next Morning, the Tide began ■slacken : At 6, I weigh'd with the Wind at South-I^ast ^ East, a handsom Breeze. Wc just weather'd the lucton,' and sounding several Times, had still between o and 40 Fathom. When we were abreast of the Button, nd about 2 Leagues from the Wcstcrroost point of Java, re had 34 Fathom, small Peppery Sand- You may cither omc between this Island and Java, or, if the Wind is Iprtherly, run out between the Island Thwart-tbc-way ■ this last small Island. t The Wind for the most Part bcii^ at East and East ¥ South, I was obliged to run over towards the Sumatra ■re, sounding as I went, and had from 34 10 23 Fathom. the Evening 1 sounded pretty quick, being got near the unutra Shore; and, finding a Current setting to the West, etwcen 8 and 9 a-Clock we anchored in 34 Fathom- The fide set to the West from 7 in the Evening to 7 this tiing; and then, having a small Gale at West-Souih- _Jt, I weigh'd and stood over to the Java Shore- I In the Evening having the Wind between East-North- m and South-East by East, we could not keep off* the ava Shore. Wherefore 1 anchored in 27 Fathom Water, bout a League and a half oflF Shore. At the same Time m Hw a Ship at anchor near the Shore, about 2 Mile to Bward of us. We found the Tide setting to the West- ■d, and presently after we anchored it fell calm. We ly still til Night, and saw many Fires ashore. At 5 he next Morning, being July the ist, wc weigh'd and tood to the North for a Sea-breeze: At 10 the Wind oming out, I tack'd and had a fine brisk Gale. The hip we saw at anchor, weigh'd also and stood after us. Vhile we past hy Pulo Baby,* I kept sounding, and had ; leas than 14 Fathom. The other Ship coming after ■ TV Bgtum lid a few inilM be|«fid Thwrnn-thc-Wsy Itlond. $«3 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. u^ with all the Sail she could make, I shortned Sail on 1700 Purpose that she might overtake us, but she did not. A little after 5, I anchored in 13 Fathom good oazy Ground. About 7 in the Evening, the Ship that followed us, past by close under our Stern ; she was a Dutch Fly-boat ; they told us they came directly from Holland, and had been in their Passage six Months. It was now dark, and the Dutch Ship anchored within a Mile of us. 1 order d to look out sharp in the Morning ; that so soon as the Dutch Man began to move, we might be ready to follow him ; for I intended to make him my Pilot. In the Morning at half an hour after 5 we weigh'd, the Dutch Man being under Sail before ; and we stood directly after him. At 8, having but little Wind, I sent my Boat aboard of him, to see what News he* had brought from Europe. Soon after, we spied a Ship coming from the East, plying on a Wind to speak with us, and shewing English Colours. I made a Signal for my Boat, and presently bore away towards her ; and being pretty nigh, the Commander and Super-cargoe came aboard, supposing we had been the Tuscany Galley, which was expected then at Batavia. This was a Country Ship, belonging to Fort St. George, having come out from Batavia the Day before, and bound to Bencola. The Commander told me that the Fleet- frigat was at Anchor in Batavia Road, but would not stay there long : He told me also, that his Majesty's Ships commanded by Captain Warren were still in India, but he had been a great while from the Coast and had not seen them. He gave me a Draught of these Streights, from the Button and Cap to Batavia, and shew'd me the best way in thither. At 11 a Clock, it being calm, I anchored in 14 Fathom good oazy Ground. At 2 a Clock we weigh'd again ; the Dutch Ship being under Sail before, standing close to Mansheters^ Island; but finding he could not weather it, he tack'd and stood off a little while, and then tack'd again. In the mean Time I stood pretty nigh the said Island, sounding, but * Menscheneters. 564 ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA could not weather it. Then I tack*d and stood ofF, and an. the Dutch stood in towards the Island ; and weathered it. *7oo I being desirous to have room enough, stood ofF longer, and then went about, having the Dutch Ship 4 Points under my Lee. I kept after him ; but as I came nearer the Island, I found a Tide setting to the West, so that I could not weather it. Wherefore at 6 in the Evening I anchored in 7 Fathom oazy Ground, about a Mile from the Island : The Dutch Ship went about 2 Miles further, and anchored also; and we both lay still all Night. At 5 the next Morning we weighed again, and the Dutch Ship stood away between the Island Cambusses * and the Main ; but I could not follow, because we had a Land-wind. Wherefore I went without the Cambusses, and by Noon we saw the Ships that lay at the careening Island near Batavia. After the Land-wind was spent, which we had at South-East and South-South-East ; the Sea- breeze came up at East. Then we went about ; and the Wind coming afterward at East-North-East, we had a large Wind to run us into Batavia Road : And at 4 in the Afternoon, we anchored in 6 Fathom soft Oaze. ' Kombuys. 565 CHAP. VI The A, continues in Batavia-Roady to refity and to get Providtm, English Ships then in the Road. Departure from Batem, Touch at the Cape of Good Hope, And at St. Helena. Arrival at the Island of Ascension. A Leak Sprung. IVhich beii^ «- possible to be stopped ; the Ship is lostj but the Men saved. Thej find Water upon the Island. And are brought back to England. E found in Batavia Road a great many Ships at anchor, most Dutch, and but one English Ship named the F/f^/-frigat, commanded by one Merry. We rode a little without them all. Near the Shore lay a stout China Junk, and a great many small Vessels, viz. Brigantines, Sloops and Malayan Proes in abundance. As soon as I anchored, I sent my Boat aboard the F/f^/-frigat, with orders to make them strike their Pendant, which was done soon after the Boat went aboard. Then my Clerk, whom I sent in the Boat, went for the Shore, as I had directed him ; to see if the Government would answer my Salute : But it was now near Night, and he had only time to speak with the Ship- bander, who told him that the Government would haw answered my Salute with the same number of Guns, if I had fired as soon as I anchored; but that now it wis too late. In the Evening my Boat came aboard, and the next Morning I my self went ashore, visited the Dutd General, and desir'd the Priviledge of buying such Pro- vision and Stores, as I now wanted ; which he granted me. I lay here till the 17th of October following, all whidi time we had very fair Weather, some Tornadoes exceptci In the mean time I supplied the Carpenter with such Starts as were necessary for refitting the Ship ; which prov'd more leaky after he had caulk'd Her, then she was before: So 566 BATA\X\ ROAD that I was obliged to careen her, fhr wbidi purjuae Z Jarcst Vessels to take in our Gtins« Boxlasc Pmviaoii jnd tcdtcs. The English Ships char arrr^'d here nnm Ea^racii- wcre first the LLmpa^ cammanded by Csntanx Mjcuik. bound for China; nexc die pjmker. -i Captain Robinson; then ihe J^Ci».aJ-fcg3t:. - by Captain Clerk. Ail diese br-.ugin: jncc TT^iing inm England. Most of them had hcea inmr^nnarg n ■:scr Officers ; especially Captain Riicinacn. irha sui 'na: yimc of them had been conspinn^ :n rim him aui us "^ irs®;. There came in also several Engtisii Czuacrr Trssrr* : irsr e Sloop from Ben-jarr ; com mantled ly ine !^.i«^r vjusc 7a Bengale: next, the .I/jct'/^v. 'leinnghig ':n ^engae ze had been at Malacca at the some "rime Tigr us 3ffsaeErr Ship the Harxuk was thert: Ararwams sme -a «u« another small Ship from Bengale;. While we stay'd her^. lil die ^irsrgmrrr r^igi^n 5::rai sailed hence ; the 2 Brrgale Scics scj^^rri::!. VEarr Z.fir.r: Ships also came in her:, and iecar^n i^in -ler^v^ is. We had several Reporrs crxcrrTiing :iir ifci ^ '♦^sr a India, and much talk c^ncming S.^^r^ri -ttxc :a<i v-t:- mitted several Spoils apcc die C-.as5r, in*i ji -re of Malacca. I CiC. not hear 'X irjj *c::^«. aerr vir them. At my first cocir^ hi. I »afi '.ui rizsz i ^::c» r^c been sent from Amboyiia ir. z-sear -,c 2:1c ; -nuct ▼ic ir-c confirmed bv one of the Skrrcen, -wii.r:: I in vj--'.^jr iier with here. He told rse they ha^i • rmr-nr^ tz^nfsr t^^ that thcv came to Y:.'jj^hirj^^^ 'jr. v^ l^'-j^r 'jf ^wrir- Guinea 28 Davs after mv dr^arnrr rztrrj^. tai -p-rr- sc 'V as Scouten's Island, aad hearing ^^^ fir-jri^ Srvi •/ r/^ rctum'd. Something likewise v. tr-^ r».ry>fcs V?L' Wc^« Commander of the FUe>ir.z^^ tv^t r:it ^ r: ^ t.'v si*^ «. here ; and that the General at hkr^^ ^ z^i a ^^.r i vf t- • Commission and Instmc^ior* ; ^.t i .vjc c .>^ r- i:. i very improbable thing. While we lay ho-c, tiie Dutch h^*. vr-trt V.*'-.. 'i- tions about sending some Sh:;^ fv r,--,:r vxr^.* "-«;- ordinary: At last the i^th of O.-.ovtr »ii air-.rr: .;'^<r for the Day of Sailing, which is 2 Mvr.-r.i vxritr va-- 5^- CAPTAIN DAMPIER^S VOYAGES AN. usual. They lay ready 2 or 3 Days before, and went out *7«> on the loth. Their Names were, the Ostresteen^ bound to Zealand ; the Vanheusen^ for Enchiehoust ; ^ and the 3 Crowns, for Amsterdam, commanded by Skipper Jacob Uncright, who was Commadore over all the rest. I had by this time finished my Business here ; viz. fitted the Ship, recruited my self with Provision, filled all my Water; and the time of the Year to be going for Europe being now at hand, I prepar'd to be gone also. Accordingly on the 17th of October, at half an Hour after 6 in the Morning, I weighed Anchor from Batavia, having a good Land-wind at South, and fair Weather: And by the 19th at Noon, came up with the 3 Dutch Ships before-mentioned. The 29th of November in the Morning we saw a small Hawk flying about the Ship fill she was quite tired. Then she rested on the Mizcn-Top- Sail-Yard, where we catch'd her. It is probable she was blown ofF from Madagascar by the violent Northerly Winds; that being the nighest Land to us, though distance near 150 Leagues. The 30th of December, we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope ; and departed again on the 1 1 th of January, 1 70 1. About the end of the Month, we saw abundance of Weeds or Blubber swim by us, for I cannot determbe which. It was all of one Shape and Colour. As they floated on the Water, they seem'd to be of the breadth of the Palm of a Man's Hand, spread out round into many Branches about the Bigness of a Man's Finger. They had in the middle a little Knob, no bigger than the Top of a Mans Thumb. They were of a Smoak-colour ; and the Branches, by their pliantness in the Water, seem'd to be more simple than Gellies, I have not seen the like before. The 2d of February, we anchored in St. Helena Road, and set sail again from thence on the 13th. On the 2 1 St we made the Island of Ascension, and stood in towards it. The 22d between 8 and 9 a-Clock, we ' Enkhuizen. 568 A LEAK SPRUNG sprung a Leak, which increased so that the Qnis-fnmp could not keep the Ship free. Whereupon I set ibc Hand- '^'^ pump to work also, and by lo a-CIock suck'i bcr: Tbcs wore the Ship, and stood to the Soutfavard, ro try ^ rrtax would ease her: and then the Chain-pomp just ktrp: bez free. At 5 the next Morning we made Soil and sicod r:: for the Bay; and at 9 anchor^ in 10 and a half Farb^G, sandy Ground. The South-point bore Soatb-Soctr-W distance 2 Miles, and the North-pcnnt of the Bay, Ncr East half North, distance 2 Miles. As vxxs as anchored, I ordered the Gunner to dear his Pc^wir-rwioa, that we might there search for the Leak, axxi endszTcc? to stop it within board if possible ; for we ccpajd r^x htsti tbt Ship so low, it being within 4 Screaks of zhc Kxxi ; z^tiriktr was there any convenient place to faaol ber tai^jrt. I ordered the Boatswain to assist the Gtxraa-; aad vr jc a-Clock the Powder-room was clear. Tbt Ctruiszrjgsr\ Mate, Gunner, and Boatswain went d^ywz. : irxi vxe ar:tr I followed them my self, and ask*d thes 1 could come at the Leak: They said tber - might, by cutting the Gcling;* I told tit Q;kzy:zj'xs^ % Mate (who was the only Person in the S::p tbar '-3id*ncv>c any Thing of Carpenters-work,) that if bt: tb'Xi^,-t « could come at the Leak by cutt-ng tit Cjt,:rj^ wrbw weakening the Ship, he might do h : for ryr r-a,c tr//^^-: one Leak so before ; which though xvx y> V^ ii tiTi >5» having seen them both, I thought be isijrht ai* »e,l c<o v.-:t as the other. Wherefore I left hLii to co hn vw, 7 -jr Ceiling being cut, they could not cook at ^bt I^ak ; for - was against one of the Foot-fcook'T:.*r/v!ri,* »'hj-,-: -vt Carpenter's Mate said he must firK c-t, vrf'/r-r :♦ '.o.;.-: *>r » The chain-pump. •'Tlus w v> f^Ji^a va- » i-/r./ -.•:* t 0,uvfy^/ m^A a sufficient number of vaJves, at ;«'op*r Cf-rv^n »i.-.- .1 y. -->» . -v^- ,-^ ^< through a wooden tube azMl re tjf& t ^^nrar-: - --j* -^-j, !':fc-i^* -, \^ other side. It is mauged by a rp//fr --^ -&<:*'.'> vsj^-'^r^ -^ •'^ <'^* ,^, be employed at once.' The aaad-prjx;, v^t . c^ « . -^^^ -^ ix.-y.^- . , ^ hardly more powerful The pump* »er* ta./: v. •^•^ ^.^. .^ , •->-•/: the water in the well, acd drew cp a-r, »-i -.v^ it-, ■^' •w ^/ , .t«r ,^^^ * The inside planks, or mser i»;x^ 'A a t.r :;, ' Foot-hook. orfuttorJc. vm^'j^m a.'» '.r» f.jf »'••>.- . , .^ ^,^, ,^^ floor and the top-timbers ^A a w v>Je& t • > ' 569 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES AN. In the Afternoon, with the Help of a Sca-breczc, I "70I ran into 7 Fathom, and anchored ; then carried a small Anchor ashore, and warpM in till I came into 3 Fathom and a half. Where having fastned her, I made a Raft to carry the Men*s Chests and Bedding ashore; and, before 8 at Night, most of them, were ashore. In the Morning I ordered the Sails to be unbent, to make Tents ; and then my self and Officers went ashore. I had sent ashore a Puncheon, and a 36 Gallon Cask of Water, with one Bag of Rice for our common use: But great Part of it was stolen away, before I came ashore ; and many of my Boob and Papers lost. On the 26th following, we, to our great Comfort, found a Spring of fresh Water, about 8 Miles from our Tents, beyond a very high Mountain, which we must pass over : So that now we were, by God*s Providence, in a Condition of subsisting some Time; having Plenty of very good Turtle by our Tents, and Water for the fetching. The next Day I went up to see the Watering- place, accompanied with most of my Officers. We lay by the way all Night, and next Morning early got thither; where we found a very fine Spring on the South-East-side of the high Mountain, about half a Mile from its Top: But the continual Fogs make it so cold here, that it is very unwholsome living by the Water. Near this Place, are Abundance of Goats and Land-crabs. About 2 Mile South-East from the Spring, we found 3, or 4 shrubby Trees, upon one of which was cut an Anchor and Cable, and the Year 1642. About half a Furlong from these, we found a convenient Place for sheltering Men in any Weather. Hither many of our Men resorted ; the hollow Rocks affording convenient Lodging; the Goats, Land- crabs, Men of War Birds, and Boobies, good Food ; and the Air was here exceeding wholsome. About a Week after our coming ashore, our Men that liv'd at this new Habitation, saw 2 Ships making towards the Island. Before Night they brought me the News ; and I ordered them to turn about a Score of Turtle, to be in Readiness for these Ships if they should 572 RETURN TO ENGLAND >uch here : But before Morning they were out of Sight, an. id the Turtle were released again. Here we continued '7oi ithout seeing any other Ship till the second of April ; hen we saw 1 1 Sail to Windward of the Island : But they kewise past by. The Day after appeared 4 Sail, which ime to anchor in this Bay. They were his Majesty*s (lips the Anglesey^ Hastings and Lizard ; and the Canterbury ast-India Ship. I went on board the Anglesey with about 5 of my Men; and the rest were disposed of into the ther 2 Men of War. We saird from Ascension, the 8th ; and continued M)ard till the 8th of May : At which Time the Men of /ar having miss'd St. Jago, where they designed to Water, M-e away for Barbadoes: But I being desirous to get to ngland as soon as possible, took my Passage in the Ship anterbury^ accompanied with my Master, Purser, Gunner, id 3 of my superiour Officers. 573 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Kins ale y 6th of August 1 7 03. — Arrived Cinque Ports ^ galley of Loodoo, Bur. 120^ Charles Peckering Comander, goes in Company with CapL W™' Dampier to the South Seas. WILLIAM FUNNELL'S CHIMERICAL RELATIONS Page 2y line 13. — But whilst we were in the Downs^ there arisiDg some difference between the two Captains, Captain PuJiing in his Ship the Fame went away and left us ; intending, as he said, to go and cruize among the Canary Islands ; and we never saw him after. P. 2, 1. 27. — Our Proposals were to go into the River of PUte, to Buenos Ayres, to take two or three Spanish galleons which Captain Dampier gives an account are usually there : And if by that ExpediiioD we got to the value of 600,000 Pounds then to return again without pro- ceeding further : But if we missed of Success there, then to cruize upoo the Coast of Peru, for the ValSvla Ships, which commonly are said to bring down store of Gold to Lima : But if that Design should also fail, then to attempt some rich Towns, according as Captain Dampier should think fit. P. 6, 1. I. — At this place (Porto Praya) we watered our Ship and refreshed ourselves ; and here being some Disagreement between our Cap- tain and first Lieutenant, our Captain turned him ashore with his Chest aad Cloaths and Servant, much against both their Wills, about twelve at Night P. II, 1. 32. — (Isla Grande). Here our first Lieutenant (Barsaby) (with eight of our Men) our Captain and they falling out, went ashoar with their goods and left us. P. 13, 1. 12. — Betimes in the Morning we saw the Islands of Sibbil de Wards, which are three in Number, lying in the Latitude of 51 d. 35 m. S. Longitude W. from London^ by my account 51 d. 37 m. . . . Captain Dampier in his Voyage round the IVorldy computes the Longitude of these Islands West from the Lizard to be 57 d. 28 m. The occasioQ of which difference I suppose to be his having made longer Runs in that Voyage, and so more liable to mistakes of this Nature. P. 25, 1. 16. At Sun-rise the next Morning being March the ist, we began to engage the said Ship. . . . We fought her very close, broadside and broadside, for seven Hours ; and then a small gale springing up, she shear'd off. As for our Consort, he fired about ten or twelve guns, and then fell a Stern, and never came up again during the Fight. We had nine of our Men killed in the Fight, and several wounded. We were desirous to have the other Tryal with him knowing it would be of dangeroui consequence to let him go ; for if we did, we were sure he would discover us to the Spaniards^ which would be of ill consequence to our whole Proceedings: But our Captain was against^ it, saying, that at the worst, if the Spaniards should know of our being in those Seas, and so should hinder their Merchant-Ships from coming out, yet that he knew where to go aod could not fail of taking to the value of ^500,000 any Day in tlfe Year. Upon this we lay by for our Consort, who soon came up: And it was 576 WILLIAM FUNNELL'S RELATIONS Ujr agrtvd fanwMn tht tao Optaini to tci lua go. So tbr Eaeay d from Di. I Mippow *rry well ndifin] t&a be had diafpouMd « P. JO, I. 19.— We . . . «cran docryed tw« Sti. We fraesdj nade r Ship, and gate duje, and aoon one op vith tbe Mss-moH ; )fce ' D be the thip we fooght wnfc otf the Itttai ham Feraado*. . . . t wtn nrj eager 10 moo her, . . tor if ve cnaU, it «a«ld luadcT tfar 6 from hiriag latalhgeiKe of ua. Becides we did oot ^urwem tbe r hrf, beouie now our M«n were all im Heahh, whcna* when we ^hi hei before, wc bad bt t we go iwtM}- aad thirty Me* 107 Mck and ; boi bring willing to abow themaeUei, tbey had doae what (ood f eoald. We knew ilao, if we took her, that afae noM Bccda mroft ■ And her Guat, A MB mni rioB, and Proraaoa^ veJd kt«e mne to ui- So we cnndadcd 10 >*{•{( bar osrarhfa, aad 1 StradliBg afm the other, wMdi ttrutd am to fa%. B« k tboDgbt it not admablc to wmiuv opoa her : Aad wUm tha V «M diipKtiDil the two Shtpa got ioio Lima, ■ P. 31, L ji.— We a«w a Sail . . . aad took her. We kept her widi htill Mtfch (he 3cxh, aad ibra hiving taken out a hnle of every tUnc r Captun diKhargcd brr, illedgine that, if we kepi her, it woatd he a a hia ptater Deiigoa, Wc were farced 10 be a* wetl ooneaa I. ■ 33t !• 3-- Oa the ^ih of /fyni ihia Second Pme. after we had a frw odd Thiop. wa*, coottsry 10 moat ot one Hiada ifiaMl t B Captjin ^Hedging, that be would not nnnber tip the Shi|k P. 4). — By Piylighc the next Moniing, a* W7 lay at aadMr, ih* TtSg t Ebb DM being door, I CaMXi widi fite fm^Mu anw witha etfl of m. ' u* and aakcd fron iriimce we cane^ Oni ladaa PSot, by I Ciptiini DirrctioiM, mada antwn that wc came bom Pm^mm. H* 1 thrm came oo board, b«t they aniwetMl they wo«U oM! 80 mt I ordered tbcm to be 6red at, which accordtnjly waa dan a .... n of ill coaar^uroce t for ve were tare they wmld diacover na 10 ■ Spasiatda. P P. 4^ I. ti>.— The next Day . . . April joth. CafUtn Daiapwr aad J, with three Lanacbea aad tbe Canoa, with Sy of ow me*, r SMu M*rm .- . . . AbcMK Twd>« thn Ni|hl ibay m«rMd I of their Dnitn. Osr nen |a«v ^ilp withia a Qaartcr of a Mile of ihc Toa that ihey wen Ed ^ three Ambwcadea [P. 4J, I. 4], aad w" wilbMly kaf* pat m, but Captain Daiapaer adrHed, that race the ftpaatarda laaw i4 war aag . . . It c" IM be dnabtcd hot ibcy bad ank tha beat af dw4r r . . . Mt it wa* rea(il*ed to rrtara 10 Scfcaebadara. ' P. 4{i ■■ H- — So Kaiiit of pTe*iaiaoa order* pm tn hot) { g'ttn Plaa* I fnr every tix Men. To oar grm cMafort, whea we •na alninat « t Wita end, we deicried ■ Sad who omt ui an Aacbw elao by ai i 4{, L It], ... ire took her witboM any rcMiaaca. A |/«M My, til 1 jjo t iiaa, dt«ply bden with Flower, Sagar, Braady, «tc, a«(, , , , w wc taigbt upply ounctve* with Prwtii^MM for fear or it' yaart. [ P. 46, L If.— Oa the iSih a MiaU Bark . . . cMiib>| M Mghi . , , I VOL. II. 577 1 u CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES we took her. She had little in her, only a small quantity of money. Thii Bark Capt. Stradling kept for his own use. P. 46, 1. 31. — Here (near to the Island Tabago, in the Bay of Panama) our Captain and Captain Stradling having some disagreement, coocladed to part company : [P. 47, 1. i] which accordingly they did : and the men of each Ship had their liberty to go in which Ship they thought confenieot. So five of our men went to Capt. Stradling, and £yc of his came to os. We were told by the Prisoners, that there were 80,000 Dollars 00 board the Prize; that they were taken in by stealth at Lima fP. 47, 1. 8], and lay at the bottom in the Run of the Ship. Our Captain did not beliere thii; and was unwilling to tarry longer, . . • because he thought loss of time would spoil his greater Designs. P* 55» 1* 3* — ^We saw a sail, . . . she proved to be a Spanish Man of War which was fitted out on purpose to take us. They gave us a broad- side, but we did not mind them ; all our care was to get the weather-gage. In order to which, while we carried too much Sail, and the Wind blew Tery fresh, our fore-top Mast unfortunately came by the board. Immediately we got our Hatchets and cut all clear away, and our Captain ordered the Helm to be clapt a Weather and bore away. The Enemy • . . bore away after us with all the sail they could ; . • • and doubted not but they sh^ take os. We . . . resolved thereupon to lie by, and fight it out. Captain Dampier'i Opinion was, that we could sail better upon one mast than the Enemy ; [P. 56] and therefore that it was best to put before the Wind. But, howe?er, we being embayed, chose rather to fight, than to be chased ashoar. So . . • we began the fight. [L. i]. — We fired about 560 Guns, and he (Enemy) about no or 115. • . . At half an hour past six, it growing duskisb, they left off firing, and we did the same. P. 58, 1. 13. — We anchored at Tacames and sent our Boat ashoar . . • hoping to get Provisions ; but the Inhabitants having notice of an Enemy's being in those Seas, as soon as they saw us, drove the Cattle from the Water-side up into the Country. So our Men went into the Village, which consisted of about fifty InJian Houses. Here in the River we found a Bark . . . with new Plank enough by her, to build another. And we took another small Bark • . . laden with Plantains. P. 68, 1. 25. — Sep*- the 2°**. Our Captain and Mr. Ciippinton the chief mate falling out; Mr. CRppinton^ with 21 of our Men, seized upon the Bark, in which was all our Ammunition, and a great part of our Provisioni ; and got up her anchor, and went without the Islands. From thence he leot us word, that if any of us had a mind to go with him, we should be wel- come ; but however, that we might not be quite destitute, he w" restore us all our Powder, Shot and Ammunition ; reserving only two or three Barrcli for his own use : and according to his promise he put on shore our Powder, Shot, and other Ammunition . . • and sent us word of his so doing. And we went with our Canoas and fecht it aboard. P. 83, 1. 20. — In the Morning, we saw a Sail and soon came up with her. She proved to be the Afani/fi-ship. So we, being all provided, gave her several broad-sides, before she could get any of her Guns clear. P. 84, 1. 7. — Time being delayed in quarrelling, between those of »$ that would lay her aboard, and those that w^ not, the Enemy got out a tire 578 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VINDICATION f C«>t, ind ihni were loo bard for ut j to that we cuuld not lie along ber , to do her *ny conilderablc damage. , . . So being much damaged . the Signal wv« made to itand otf from ihe Enemy. P. WS.— On the fi" it was concluded between Capt. Dampirr and 30 r Men, to Guntinuc in the South-SeaB ; but upon what Terms tbia Lxreemeflt wa* made, wt« kept lecret. We who were re&oNed to go for I, ucd OUT cndeaToara to get into the Gntf of jlmapalla (which wai the we dciigned to water at) with all the hane we could. Where «c Kfaurrd on the 16''' of January 1 704. And the same day : the Ptovitton* being n]iulty paited according to the directioni of the Owneri Agent ; and foor girat Cunii, with Mine Small Armt, Powder and Shot, etc., bring taken oai fur u> ; we (that is, 33 of ub who reiolted to go in the Bark for ^Hbdia) went on ihore in order to water our Vessel for the laid Voyage. Kapt l^ APTAIN DAMPIER-S VINDICATION OF HIS VOYAGE THE SOUTH SEAS IN THE SHIP "ST. GEORGE" IfiifA /MW /Md// Oitfrtvtlnat for tht Pmenl an Mr, FimarFt Cbimrritai ReUt«M Of Ibt f'ojagt Reuml the WorU t aad Dtletltd m UllU, tnlil be ihall It Examiit'J mart at Largi, ■'i, ft'u, md Muu imid «#/ Id the Grti place, he calli himwif my Mate ; He went out tny Steward, aad ifterwatdi I did make a Midshiptiun of him : Indeed he had the Adtaaiage of penuing Djuugliti and Hooka, of which be afterward* gave _ bw a ileoder Account, fur some he pretended were la*t, and otheri ibc lausfau are torn out of them \ Eipecially the Draoghu ti Wind*, wkicii I greatly nuprct him of Doing, bccaiue be ii (mm the firtt Mas that la* ■TOur'd to build upon aoothei Man'* Foundation. . In pag. 1, lin. 4, he uys, that Capt. Pi^k% wm going is CompMiy I nil but while we lay at Anchor in ibe Dvmnu, thne woat ■ e between ua two Capuioi, on which PMm w*m awa*. / -tvaaJrr at tU ImpaJtmt, f»r I tnu or I.tmAm, <t tf«^ ( aaJ 'tit vm Imovm 'tviai llu Ounwr' ^ rr ,- to wiom I ApfKai. ^In p. 1, I. 1;. Our P<opo«»U, isy* he. were 10 f« nMo ifc« |t)««f Sir and lo Bwrnoi Ayrr* 10 take I or } Spniih gaOeoM witicb C>ft. DKBjnet give> an Accmum of (I uy Capt. Mtntfm, at tie dive, becwiac 1 wji a f-orr.go Gmileman tliat waa mm 10 fetWD Inmw) m> MuDy there. 1 dcwe to know of iliu gcMleaMS, whew n wm tW I Mt> tliti AccoBDt, and to whom ; I moM coojew lime waa mmr Uisumw Jm* it ; bat I never detiga'd to lo to Bnnoa Ayre*, far then, hHn| Mxh * UangcroM Rtver to go Up : And I tMnk Capt. Pntlcn taJk'd M^nmhtm^ M* ihia, and w Mt. Fnnori bom tlmce nny cMclnlr wlut tmjtn^a, ¥m inj^y^t girct ReaaoM of hia own | why wc ckl mm ga M t^ttm Indeed be hat a very Pradwctitc Brain i« fniuu RcMnne ' Whrre Mr. hiWDell nyt CafC Dal^ier and Litwi. H^ffwd ItttMftM. TbMv wat no Mch thing; for k waa Mr. Mm|m, Pw*w Mt4 hf^m, 579 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S that diugreed with Lieut. Huxford, went ashore, a Poctugueie, a >ort of Corrigidor, Confin'd Mr, two afterwards, lie himself tent ibr hia Chest i deliver'd. But the Day before I uil'd I sent Cheet tad Cloatha actually came, m> that I had him ; but Mr. Morgan iwore, if Mr. Huxford not go the Voyage. And where ill Blood ia, ihii which I ordered him to go oo Board Capt. PJcli Board along our Side, and Lieut. Stradling in i I could Reconcile these Two after a Geotleman-li 1 could, but it happeo'd otherwise, for instead of ci porit. Me and Huxford disagreeing when they M him on Board a Portuguese Merchant- Man. 4. In relation to James Barnaby, second Liei Disagreement with him, the Lieut, (meaning Bart. went on share and left us, taking their Chest* and ' To the Contrary of this I answer : I take disagreed with him ; but finding him a little Pert between him and Mr. Morgan, I ordered him a little time after this, as we Rode at the Isle of ( the Cinque Port, sent for his Things, but 1 refu comes on board after a Refractory manner. Charge he, and eight of the Men, being rather Assisted tl (as Mr. Bunnell knows) Mutiny'd, to begin iheii Boat and went away per Force, on a Design to that was lying on the other shore, nearer the Main was aware of them. Upon which to acquit my 1 I sent Letters to the Governor of Rio de Janeiro; Knavish Part of their Intent, and that they migl secuted something like the former Design } This 1 In p. 15, Mr. Funnel), to senle my Mistakei d' Wards (Falkland Islands). But every bod mistake to be Positive in seeing that he nei Mr. Morgan and my Self could know the Contrai In p. 14, towards the latter God, he says we * contrary to all Expectations. This is a Merry way of his ; for it is well k I told them we should sec Land the next Morning the South Part of it : Now I look upon that to be one side of the Land for the other, than 'tis to Westward of the whole Island, and miss his L of course. Tho' there may be more Mistakes that we p Matter, as yet, my crew not being wholly here. Actions of the Voyage, on which depend the Mil the Mens Disorder. The first of which is the FreDch ship thi coming to the Island of Juan Femando's, to wl 3 in the Afternoon, and fetch'd upon her so fa 580 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VINDICATION I found the wu an Guropcan Ship and not a Spaniard, upon which, aoc willing lo puriue her any further, but the men being (ai they ) in a Desire of Engagement, Right or Wrong, I follow'd her, next Morning eirly, we came up with her, and when 1 saw nothing i duenjjage theni ftom an Iniigoilicant Attempt, I encourag'd them all lid. Dy thi> time my Ginsori had given her a Broad tide, lo I ranged het other tide, and gave her a Droad-iide likewise. Now to shew the 'uaiofl lliey were then in, ihey Fir'd upon our own Consort in his falling tTO, and niniirr'd hi* Help. Notwithstanding thi» I came up again, Uxchant;'d j or 4 Broadside) with her, wheiein Ten of my Men r'd, 9 kiU'd and 1 wounded; which Diimay'd my Men so much, actiuUy run down off the Deck, and made nothing of it afterwards, ao when I could hare boarded her and carried her, the Mate, Cleppington N'Oie, cry'd The Men are all gone; and Bellhash the Master, whose ice It wai to be always upon Deck, was gone alio ; tho' thia Gentleman aw a Valiant Talker, to my Detriment. la p. i{, 16. Mr. Funnell says the Crew were Desirous to Ftghi thii p again. Now since they made nothing of it while in my Power ; What I to be done afterwards! And as to my telling ihcm {aa he says) 1 M gM at any time ^{CX),ooo, 1 i.iy, so I, kept my Boat* which were R lo«i, n( would my People have been Rul'd. In p. }i Mr. Funnell lays we look a ship of ii:>o Tuns, loaden with eral good Commodities, as Indigo, Cochineal, Sec. Now for Cochineal, t never heard of any. Indigo there wai : but the ir, and the Tuttlethel, he so frequently (peaks of, may be gone the m way that many Rich and Valuable Goods have, by the Management (bote Pyrating Fellows, rather than Sailors, the Indigo 1 could not take Board t nor could I tru»t any of them with the •Soiling such a ship, ai Id OcittieT keep tttc Company, nor make a right Slrctage-way. Im p>. 55 He lays truth ai to Mr. Obiervator's Ship and the Monkey I WB1 ten in her ; but as to Firing at anything but the Ship, iind the lir Cicw, who before we could make up to her, had msde into their M*, utd Kithiog tictidei the C-irgu and the Monkey were indeed un Board, Icb ahmi'd hate been brought alon;t, had we nut Obsrrv»tori enough at Tbe noil thing they Charge me with, ci|ieci4lly Mr. Funnell in p. 41 be Gulph of St. Michael, saya, when we were in the Bar(|ue Ian taken, ladiaa Canoe Hiled us, and that I order 'd her 10 be Fir'd upon. The is VFfy plain, for when 1 taw some of them that had Fir'd without Ordcn, I was very Uneaay and Troubled at it, knowing the Consequnice The Second I'hing that's Matieriil is, that the Ship mentioned by . Funnell in p. 45, 4'T, where he iremi to F.xplain fKu,OOo was Hid in Run of the Ship, and I slipt the Op)iiirtunity of taking it, and turning Adrift; .So this I answer, 1*hat 1 bad rTideni Proof ihe hod Landed Mooey at Tiuiillot and a> 10 Protisioos, we took as much a < would ride u* for One Year, and much longer, if well nunag'd, that was, what Shin could well Stnw, and this wai the Steward and the Crew's S8l CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S Now as to a Report that they make about T be offer'd for her Ransom : First I had no con' and the strong Southerly Winde were tet in, and her muBt certainly been Imbay'd for 3 or 4 M< thro' the Treachery of the Spaniard), I haw before in a like Case, Riding there For Ranio Capt. Davit, for instead of keeping their Faith, t Ship in the Night and 14 Periagoea ; and tho* w and Stouter men, we came narrowly off. Now, that they are Judge* in my Case ai Feilowi who were Perpetually drunk. And Guarding a Ship in the Night, or being kept in ai Again in p. 46, 47. Wliereai Mr. Funnell that I could agree with nobody ; and to says th Capt. Stradling. I >ay, I Deputed Capt. Stradli at Juan de Fernando's, when all bis Men left hi him again : therefore I might expect a Reasoat entered into a Dispute. I lent him a spare Ti being sickly, he had always my Chirurgeon, and t a last, and any Kindness I could do him, I did of his Voyage. In p. 5S, he says we met a Spanish Man of manner, we got to Leeward of Her thro' their Broad-side or two were Given and Taken, I ei Sail, Hung out my Flying Gib. They who wei they should not ; and did not think me worthy my Fore-Top Mast in the Night, so it immedj By this I was utterly deprived of means to get ehe, I lying wholly at her Mercy j that Figbtin] sistent with Reason. And whereas he says we Fir'd ;6o Guns ai not 60 em Hit her : now to what purpose th know rot. For I was forced to Command 'em ^ P. 58.— In our going to Tacames, he Talks call my judgement in question about getting it, 1 away the Cattle. There may be wild Hogs nothing else, bo that I suppose this is to Redicule but that there might be 2 or 3 Cows. He ma and there they did bring off a little Boat, and I deal of Plank ashore. The next Morning I sent the Master, Bellh Man now, with 10 or 30 Men and Fire-Arms m far from bringing Plank, that upon one Shot fii Running Aboard frighted, lost i or 3 Pieces; / Bravoes that are fit to set People by the Ears at as Rife with me as 'lis with them. What's observable, is, it is not enough to Ru Goods, and do what you please with Bale* of other Stores ; and under Pretence of Shares, uk< 582 CAPTAIN DAMPIERS VINDICATION d do what r\tt ihev phaie : offer to kill the Captain or a *hM Vb. Funntll calli Falliag out with xhc Capuin ; Thi ly other VilUny. ■ is hii frequent But at to Mr. Ci< ■ppingto . that he mention* it rord. On the contrary, he leized my Bjrque, therein was two Ifincr lleck Guot, two PattererorR, with all my Powder and Shot, lat we weie upon ihe Careen in the Gulph ins, except Tour, were aihore, and ihute 4 mtj Hole : my tmall Armi wet, to ihat I had nothing to command him , forget I tell the World iheae Frilot Bellhaah, inaod, itript the Prisoner!, Indians or Spaniards; whereas let them ' t me of anything more than the most Compassionate Christian Usage Rinkt tif Men, and this I thought was the best way of Performing Voyajte, Therefore to return to Mr. Oeppington, let the World ' R theie Roguci (whotc Cruelty ii a Mark of Cowardice) were not the Watch from lime to time, to diiappoint and overset the Voyage [ htre waa Bellhaih the Mailer, CIcppington the Mate, Bath the ■ad about 10 Men ; with the never be forgotten noble Capt. ,*faich I will speak of hereifter. But in the Erening comrs back ih, Thomai, and some others, demanding their Cloaths, these Aa aooti 11 e»er the Mate Cleppington wjs gtme, then ihe rest of made a Demand to have the Money and Plate : and what v/u n ^r'd amongit them, which I refiu'd to do ; and when 1 found they rre in the Mutinving Vein, 1 produc'd the Queen's Orderi, and told 'em WJ* ottt of my Power j but if at the End of the Voyage, they would rry the Ship into any Pott of the West-Indies, or East, I would do Mice lo my Owners and them. Hr. FunocU forgets that he minded 1 him (which wai). that all Go< d then ihry ihould have nothing. N liainy, and punish 'd with Death. Ai W the AcajHjlca Ship which he menlioni Jn p. 8j. He say* — bra wt came up with the Ac.ipuica Ship, we gate her seteral Broad- lea before *he could get any of her duns clear. To ihii I aniwer. It is False {niircly so ; for I no sooner Fir'd 00 her, but ihe Fir'd on F, and had tier Cuns out bcfbte. Again he aays, Thai while some of them were Quarrelling about Laying her on Board, ■d utme Diijiuting the Contrary, the got out a Teer of Guns, and then H too hard nt at. Mr. Fonnetl might bear Oisputa, ai he calls it, among the Men; 'hat WM nothing to my Ctminuod. They might have taken het, would cy have Obey'd my Adkicr, which was in Ply her with mr Chaec Guns, id Comniand her that way : Fnr we had nothing to do dlong Side, and ■I I refer myself lu all Sailors in ihe Woild, whether it was right oc not. And coundenng the Inecjualriy of our Numliers and Bulk uf Ship. ~ ' beginning of (hii Action, we were 10 the Windward of her, the Westward, and *e llearing away upon her with a Flown 583 1 of one thing that is lery of Forts were my Friends, Ship of War ihit would be CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S Sheet I then order'd my Officers to keep eoough of her : instead of this, tpite of my Heart, they : far from having the Power to Command and Boar we lost the Opportunity, and were forc'd to Le< that I Taclt'd, came abou', and had her under m hop'd to Batter her with my Chace Guns, ahe h Gal! u» ; thia I took to be ihc best way of Disablinj have made her yield. Instead of (hit, to shew t OtHcera were to Board her, or Perform their I Mate left the Bracei, and betook them to the ConfuBioD, neither they nor the prirate Men (let ever intended Boarding her : For 'tit an Argai Bay, there wat not a Man to be Awittant to brjcM not a Rope splic'd or knotted io all the Ac at Helm contradicted my Orderi, Edg'd her aw at which I offered to ahoot him through the heai this Paa*, the Boatiwain being at the Braces, I intend to do ? He toid me to Board her. Clap I . But for want of Wind by this time (ihey bein as if all things had concurr d to our wrong. The would the keep to> Now could I have gotten far from being Desirous to Board her, that the couraging of the Men : Not only (hat, but he a shewing the Powder Barrels at the Enemy's Yar<j Afieraoon, when we were a great way to the I who by this time was Potent in Liquor, cry'd Boa I answer'd, to Night, 'tis Impossible, we hat brfure ue, and now no Wind to work the Ship. these Fellows, in the Night they actually lost her her ; and for 3 days after this, they were frightet ihey call it, their Pannick Qualms, was ever Inc Tack about again on any Account. To conclude then : to engage them to cruizt forc'd to set my Hand to a Paper, that I would (i best of my way to India. So once more we stood and nfier standing liastward for some time, we, W to Amapala to Water. In p. 86. — We must not omit that Funnell sa bciweifn Capt. Dampier and 30 of our Men, to coi but upon what Terms this Agreement was made, * 'Tis well known I never professed anything Honourable and Justifiable on our Return to E Villany, and is really Witty in his turning Robbel Whereas I w'* have kept all my Men, and begg that they w'"! Consider the Blackness of the Act Funnell himself was chiefly an Undertaker, his F^ mav extort his as well as other FoHies that he is C For when he v/^^ Colour over the Matter, he (Mr, Morgan, who is Beholden to hrm) appointed 584 JOHN WELBE'S ANSWER I be ii- I wii DO wDonct it an Anchor at AnapaU, boi all Hasdi I, went to vort in getting the Bucgae oa Baud, and took ■■]> d PfDciiion OM by Force. I that Mr. Hillbaih by nime, that all men nuy.know him, atid bow 'i to be iDtruiicd, took mc bv the Throit, anj Swore if I ipokc a iFordi ihey would Uaih mj fitaitu out, afid the re*t Mndiog hff CooeiTing ft tbe Acuoo. So that wlicn we comr to Repeat ihu whicti axj be ipoken ' e at large, the* aik'd for iny Key* of the PvnJtr Rmm and Cheu of J Annii ! da^d'm. Mr. Murgan bimiti/ imd, n to tbK we hive B Crowi on B<Mtd, they are ai good Keyi m we denre, aod wrtli that A'afr— Out of 60 Handi that femain'd, they left me 7 1 Men «fief kg rreryihiiig. Nov I refer Riytclfto all Mankiftd, ai ibey nude ibeir |i they fifi me but One Sailor ; So ihey left me Life there. But they ive me ol my Cuud Name here, and M>b my RepulalkMi for 10 make tuie Play itill. they tura'd my PriaoMn atbare* and by 1 intrnded to tay luch a &;ir io my way, Tim aa they have eied I ahould neret come Home ; it ia ■ Miracle m Natmv Iww I did. Coanderio^ the Spaniaida had Noiif e of me before I got noa ihc Ca*M 'Pers, ihiougb their (tclexlDe the I'riaoncr* i Now let all Maklu*d )adce - Mnwi^blr i:an-!ition I wa« in. there b^g a Maa of War (hai 1^ idy for mc. So ihii let 'em colour one Villaay oa another, asd cxcmc eill, I am latitf^'d tlie Frar of nxetiog tbe Spamb Hea of War oart, wa« tbe Occaaion, 'Twonld be tcdioua to itaeM ibcir Bj'- when that BulTooa Tabj Thmuu by name. Bid, Pttr ; thy Caie ■* like Kinji Jimei, errry Body hat leA thee: 1 mi« otjie World then, aod Alwjy*. tbe Doctor waa iJie only OAcer J by it»e in all my Adnr«iiie«> More ahall be laad of Mr. Fanoell Ef, when hii whole Book >> more aerioualy coaiider'il. ■ifi. — HavJDg; Read Capt. Le Wtigbi'* Pro;M«il* for nodier I into the South Sea*. I do think it Proper aod AdTaata^ieoa, I he was Incirely io the Right; asd I am ready to Satiafy any t of Mefchaoi* how Practicable h bspedmi it b lo yat it in B forthwith. M8WER5 TO CAPT. DAMPIER'S VINDICATION, BY JOHN WELBE (MIDSHIPMAN ON BOARD CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S SHIPf Stimify. ClKhL — Aa for wlut Capt. Dampicr ny* cooceraiM Li« ia true, Mr. Mnrjian and be had a Moall QMrrcTi but afitaia Damper'i P«rT, who were, both after and before omanoal Variaocr. Wiincu the very Efit Ni|bt we ca 4 auch high WorJa in the Cabbm, that Cnt. DamfNer rt, ia order to put the Ship abogi, jad atand i« afain for r to pot him aihore. Now, bad be fW him Mhwi* at Ii have Uam'd him ; but l^ti laat Qaarrrl happea'ed at the one of the Cap d« Verd lalaadai tmk CafN. Ihmpier CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES the Portugueze Officer to confine him. And the next Day, Mr. Huxfbrd sent for his Chest and Cloaths, which were sent him. But the Day before we sail'd, he came on Board again, and brought his Chest and Cloaths with him ; but as soon as the Capt. saw him, he order'd him to go out of the Ship. Mr. Huxford begg'd of him not to be so barbarous, as to turn him ashore amongst a Parcel of Banditties and Negro's ; but desir'd him to let him lye in the Long-boat; or he w'^ be* contented to go before the maft, rather than go ashore amongst a Parcel of Heathens. But our Consort'i Boat coming on Board, with Lieut. Stradling, Capt. Dampier and be contrived together to get Mr. Huxford into his Boat, under a Pretence of carrying him on Board of our Consort, and so to carry him on Board of one of the Portugueze Ships, that lay in the Road : but Mr. Huxford beiDg unwilling to go out of the Ship, Capt. Dampier, with his own Hands, took hold of him, and thrust him out of the Ship into Lieut. Stradling's Boat, who put him on Board a Portugueze Ship in the Road, according to the Contrivance aforesaid ; where he remained not long, before they tum'd hio ashore, and within three months afterwards miserably ended his Dayi, partly with Hunger; yet I wonder not at the Captain's monstrous Bar- barity, knowing the like Scene of Cruelty was acted by him, when Gnd- mander of the Roc'Buck, Thirdly, — As to Mr. James Barnaby, our Second Lieutenant, he uji, he never disagreed with him ; which is false : For being both drnok to- gether in the Cabbin, they quarrell'd, Mr. Morgan being ashore kirr nothing of it ; upon which Mr. Barnaby desir'd CapL Dampier to gife hia Leave to take his Chest and Cloaths out of the Ship, and he w*^ go ashoR to the Portugueze ; and Capt. Dampier told him, he might take his Thb^ii and go where he pleas'd. Accordingly the next day he w" have goae ashore ; but Capt. Dampier w^"* not let him, but took him, and ty'd \m Hands behind him : But towards the Evening, one of our men cat hii Hands loose ; and about ten at Night, he and eight more of our men put their Chests and Cloaths in the Pinnace, and desir'd some of the Ship*i Company to go in the Boat with them, to bring her back again ; which accordingly they did, Capt. Dampier being in his Cabbin quite drunk. Fourthly, — He says he mentions only the two Actions of the Voy^ on which depends the Miscarriage of the whole, by the Men's Disorder. To which I answer. That the Miscarriage of the Voyage depeodi wholly on the Want of Courage and Conduct in the Commander. AsfiBr the French Ship, that we engag'd near the Island Juan de Femando'i, 'tii true, we chased her all the Afternoon, and fetch'd upon her ; but taking her to be an European Ship, (as Capt. Dampier says in his own scandakoi Vindication) he did not care to engage her, (he believing, that she might haie Guns on Board, to which he always had a natural Aversion ; and besides, art ; knowing how to behave himself, or work his Ship in Time of EngageneBt, as it plainly appear'd afterwards). Having chas'd this Ship all Night, bthe Morning our Consort came first up with her, and gave her a Broadside or two ; but finding her to be a Ship of greater Force than his was, he sooi shear'd off, and shortened Sail, which was the Occasion of his falling asters; and now it being left to the courageous Capt. Dampier, to dispute the De- cision of the Victory, he, as soon as we came within Gun-shot of the Enemyi 586 JOHN WELBE'S ANSWER eaatminit to iJiarien Sail ; but, by tht PersuMtoni or the Officer*. aDd run ntotig her Side, often asking hii men, whether lie wan near Ct|<T. Pampier i* pkan'il to my in liti own Vindication, that after ing'H Mtrral Btcudsides with the enemy, wherein several of our lili'd and wounded, that hii Men run down olf the Deck, and made Jig of it. :i tku I aniwer, that none of our Men quitied their Poeii, during the of Enga^cnienl, except Capt. Dampicr himielf, who the whole Time Eliga|[etnrtii, nrilhcr eticourag'd his Men, nof gave any tegular Command, b Maaltf rei^uirciJ from a Commander at tuch Times ; but ilood upon the marter-l>irck hchiod a good Barricado, which he had order'd to be made ■ firdi. Rug*. Pillow*, Blankets, etc. to defend him fioin the amall «hot of ■• Eonay i where he itood with hi< Fuire in hi> Hand, and neier lo much m look C»r« to bare the Quaiter-Deck Gune and Patlareroa iir'd. And ■beilu he uya, he could have boarded her, and carry 'd her, tt is probably trae : but he wai ra far from intending it, that he call'd out to make Sail, br Tear the littciny ihould clap u» oo Board, and lake us ; which was the 6nt Wo(d that I hi-.trd him tpcjik during ihe Engagement; and lo accord- tegly wr ih(er*d ojf from her, and lay by, 'till our Coniort came up ; and both Shipt Companies would fain have attack'd her agiiin, knowing take her, that ihe w" discover our being in the Seas, to Spattiardi. which w*^ cooncquently frustrate our De«igni on the Coast of (m Mcordingly it afterwards happcn'd) but Capi. Dampicr w'" not to ii. And afterward* meeting her ihe lecood Time off Lima, oar Mn briog in Health, and both Ships Compaoiet willing to tight her for the afoietaid Reasons, Capt. Dampier w''* in do wi*e consent to hot calling for the Doctor, ask'd him. If he c'' make any more Men, in should engage thU Ship, and lose any ! But the Doctor told him, c*' not make Mm ; yet he w'"* do his Endeavour to pteaerre those lud, if he should have any wounded. Upon which Answer, the Capl. (It la stand to Sea, and w*"' in no wise Content to hazard his Peraon :ottd l-DgigrmeDt. U|ion which, one of our Men told him to hii \ hf WW a Coward, and ask'd him, Whether he came to tho«c P«ru of r Wnrid to fi^hi, or Dot ? And he reply'd, He did not come to fight i be knrw where to make a Voyage, without fit;hling. LikewiK Capi. Dampicr lays, in hi* own Vir>dication, that he could r pK ^500,000, if he had kept hi* Qoais, which were then lo*i. ifa H bin ■ very slender Gxcute of Captain Dampier'* : for the very next Rafier that he refused to tight the French sliip off of Lima, We took a of Ifo Toiu, which had two Boats; and six Days after, we took Btber Ship of too Tuns, which had a large Boat likewiae: *o that it " MM be for want of Boats, that he fail'd in his Deaigo, but only hi* not mg «bere to light of such a considerable Sum of Money, afirr he wai •cr'd on the Ooiit, fwhich he muit bbme himself for.) He likewise that he nnrr heard of any Cochinrel, (hat wa* on Board the second ; vbkh it ftlne; for I heatil tpveral of the Ship's Company tell him It. «nd WW on llojrd the S)<ip myself, and saw some of the Cochinecl ; 1 cm give no Account of what yuanii'y ihrre was on Board, becaute she a dceji loaden Ship, and we were not allow'd th* Liberty to learch 587 I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES her ; so that I cannot tell what more yaluable Goods she might have on Board. I w" willingly know what Reasons Capt. Dampier can give for his taking of Prizes, and discharging of them, without ransoming or searching of tbem. He allows some Part of the Story of the Obser?ator's Ship and the Monkey, to be true ; but says, he knew that the Ship's Company had kft the Ship, which if he did, what was his Reason, as soon as we came aloDg her Side, for hailing of her himself, when there was none but his Brother Captain (the Monkey) on Board to answer him ? Likewise he denies, that he order'd the Indian Canoe, that hailed u in the Bark, to be fir'd at, which is false : for it was by his own Order ; which, together with his ill Conduct in anchoring so often, when there wai no Occasion for it, and making so much Delay in that Attempt, that gafe the Spaniards an Opportunity of discovering us, and so frustrated that Desiga. He also pretends, that he had evident Proof, that the Ship which we took in the Bay of Panama, loaden with Flower, had landed her money at Truxillo. To this I answer, that as soon as the Capt. of the Spanish Ship came oo Board of us, being an old Commander, and well acquainted with the Ways of the Buckaneers of America, he asked Capt« Dampier, Who he was? Whether a Man of War, or a Pirate ? Capt. Dampier told him, he had a Commission for what he did ; and then asking. If he had any Money oo Board ? To which the Spanish Captain answered him. If he found any Money on Board, except what he gave him an Account of, which was hot very little, he w^^ give him leave to hang him at the Yard-Arm : for, said he, hearing of your being in the Seas, by the French Ship that you fought with near the Island of Juan de Fernando's, I put all my money ashore at Truxillo, and so put to Sea, being in hopes to miss you. This is all the evident Proof that Capt. Dampier had of their Money being landed at Truxillo ; which is no Proof at all ; for the Spanish Capuin knew ferj well, that Captain Dampier having a Commission, w^^ be oblig'd, at his Return, to give an Account of his Voyage, and had no Power to punish him, if he told him any Lies, he being a Prisoner of War : But on the contrary, if we had been Pirates, he knew he must expect no Mercy, if he gave any wrong Account. I was on Board this Prize my self several Times, and was told by some of the Prisoners, that there was $80,000 hid in the Ron of the Ship ; and I sent Captain Dampier Word of it : but I c*^ not have the Liberty to search her, Capt. Dampier putting so much Confidence io the Spanish Captain's word. The Reasons that he gives for his not taking the $50,000, that was proffer'd him for the Ransom of this Ship, are but very slender and weak. In the first Place, he says. He had no convenient Road to ride in ; this is a wilful Mistake of Captain Dampier's, for there was Port Pinas, in the Latitude of 7 Degrees North, which is a very safe Port, and good Anchor- ing, it being a Place of no Trade ; neither is there any Inhabitants, except a few Indians, it being a good Place for Ships to get Wood and Water at. When we took this Prize, we were lying at an Anchor at Point Garrachina, which lies in the Latitude of 7 Degrees and 20 Minutes North, which is but 20 Miles distant from Port Pinas. I would willingly know what Reason Captain Dampier can give for his not going to this Place ? The next Reason that he gives, is, his Fear of loytering away his 588 — — _ ^ ' ' JOHN WELBE'S ANSWER being imiuycd for 3 or 4 Montiu. To tbia I answer, that had wnjf'd the Prise to Port Picas, he need oot have lost so he did bj tarrying where he was with her 1 for he kept her *« VHy* ia Cuitody, wheo the Sjiauisli CapitiiD deslr'd but three Days IT to ictcb the Rantom, and w''' have left his two Brothers as Hosiagei, the Ship in our Cuitodjr, 'till his Return. We were Shipi of good Be, caoaidering where we were, hating z6 Guns, and our Coniori GuiM : besides we knew, thai there was no Men of War in the Bay of ■a Bor within 400 Leagues of us : and therefore consequently could ■TMratly lu>e Intelligeoce of our being in the B,iy. Likewise on the Coast of Mexico, we had an Account of four or live thai were at Anchor in the Port of Cualaico, which ia a place of no tbey were laden with Silks there ; yet w''' the Captain in no wi«e be ' to let ut go in and fetch them, which we might vcty easily have H« o»*d sonietimet to call the Officers aft to a Council of War. Now, BMial io a Council of Wat for the youngett OlTicer lo give liia Opinion : but, to the contrary, Capt. Dampier w'** alw,iyB givi- hii own Opinion t BOid ibcD, if any of the Officers gave their Opinion contrary 10 liii, v^ Ay out in a PaMion. and say. If you know better than I do, take Cbarec of the Ship. He was alwayt a Man to much sclf-conceiicd, , be w** Drrer hear any Reaaon. When we met the I^panish Man of War, we got to the l.eward ol WK lhtau);h our own Miscarriages (as Capt. Dampier Terms it), but Bxb hit own obstinate Humour : for the Night bi'fore we engag'd her, was tboBi a League and an half to the Winilward of us, plying to the •dward, ai we were 1 bm however, in the Morning we were almoit up I het, ibx, IS t believe, twt keeping up so close to the Wind as she hi hare done ; lor I found afterwards she hel<) as good a Wind as we ; we had the iVdvaotij^e of fore-reaching on her : We were then about K Lnguei olTof the Shore, ahe wai about three Points on our Weather- tut, above a League distant. About to in the Morning Cant, Dampier t'd vt to nuke ready to tack tlie Ship; Upon which I ask'd him I br deMjrp'd to do ! He said. He w'** tack the Ship, and see what she ■poai Which I advised him not (u tack the Ship, 'till we had the jc of the Sea-Breece, and then we might be sure of getting to the ■dwardofhni but if we tack'd the Ship then, tk'* lose the Advantage of the Sca-Bree/e, at of her. But he w''' not content to it, but 1 iiaidy uck'd it>r Ship. And a> I said, so it aUc lo letch to the Windward of her. Bui it C Advice, we had not had any Occasion lu have ' Mast, but might easily have taken her, all our Men being in ■hk, and very wilting to engage her. As fo( Mr. Cteppiogton's leaving of him, il was Capt. Dampirr** own ifcl br Mr. C'lepptngtoD and he, having tome Wordi about the Ship'* tarn, At being very much worm-eaten, the Captain told him, tlul hr, M mnnj at were williag 10 go with him, might takr the Bark, and gu ~ Ibiy plm'd, nd be ar" give tbem Armt : lor, aayi be, if I ha** biH 5»9 « he in ended to do. d be Euie wn Way, the ook hit antl hap|*fl'd lur we vere ^pl, Dam Crowded ier had uken ■0 much. and CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S ao or 30 Mm, I know where to make a Voyage hit BravidoB. So that Mr. Cleppington did but 1 tend to justify Mr. Cleppington in carrying iwaj but only blame the Capt. for his ill Conduct in I November the ii"* 1704, there being 10 of Capt. Dampier Call'd on Board of ut : and to Sataugua, which ii about twelve League* to t ■ome Water, and order'd us to come to him : the Sail he could from u>, and toon run ui out call'd all Hand* on the Deck, and told them, Prize, had run away with her, and so alter'd another Place. But it pleas'd God, on the 2^ little nearer the Shore than ordinary, and saw a which, we being but ten of us, and had 8 Prison have but four Muskets to defend our scItc*, we on Board when the Capt. left ue, and about la go in and see what Ship she was, which accon great Comfort, found her to be our own Ship, us, that the Capt. did it on purpose to lose us. Likewise he says : that when we first saw standing to the Westward : which is a very great 1 for she came from the Fillipin Islands, which was hound for Acapulca, which was to the East Likewise he says : It was his Mens Fault, Which is like the rest of bis false Stones ; for 1 having our Larboard Tacks on Board, standing Easterly. She was about two Leagues a-head bow, having her Star-board Tacks on board, *tx as soon as she came right Head of us, she bore us ; and a little before she came within Gun-s 10 in the Moroing, she hoisted her Spanish i the Lewjrd, as a Friend, bclieTing us to be a S| the Officers desir'd the Capt. to hoist Spanis with a Gun to the Leward ; but he w" not coi hoisted an English Ensign, and fir'd a Sho perceiv'd that we were an Enemy, bnt immed hail'd close upon a Wind, and so got to the Wit to heave all her Boats over Board, and her Gooi made a clear Ship : and got a teer of Guns o having but two Guns upon the upper Deck, wh she had clear Co fight, when we came first up ' uck'd, and run along her Side, the Men beii Board ; but the Capt. was so much against it order'd the Man at the Helm to edge near he Board, the Capt. Swore he w''' shoot the Mai Head, if he offer'd to edge near her. After several Shot under water, one of the Men told was a sinking, and that now was the Time to instead of clapping her 00 Board, the Capt. cry*< JOHN WELBE'S ANSWER here u th« Canoe? And wa* tor getting into the Boat to save hii Life, itew'd whai Man of Courage and Conduct he wag. But we thear- [ off from her, the Carpeotcr itopp'd the LeAks. After which, the M. ordn'd u* to iLiDd otT from hrr, which accordingly wc did : all the if'$ Com[iaDy being exceedingly vcx'd at ibe Capt.iin'K ill Conduct. We od about two Leagues off from her ; and then the Captain «aid, Well, nxleaim, t will not lay, » Johny Armsirorg said, I'sc Uy me down and •d ■ while ; but I will Uy me down and sleep a while : but he Ibrgot to kc again, 'till 7 or li a cluck the next Morning. He never so much as i iBj Ordcii, with the Officers, what they shou'd do; but set a Centry his Cabiun- Door, that no Body ihou'd disturb him. And whereas he L, that the Men loii him in the Night, it is false i for we were in Sight brrr the next Morning, and he order'd us to steer away directly from . Now, if to be thai Capt. Dampiec w'^ have done as the Officers lii'il him, which was, when we brst came Up with her, to have hoisted taoA Colours, and tir'd a Gun 10 the Leward, as a Friend, we might V run along her Side, she not suspecting us to be an F.nemy ; and then d oor lingliih Coloun, and gaie her a Broad-side, and a Volley of i which w''' have been a great Surprize to them, and so ctapp'd r on Board : In the Confusion, we might very easily have taken her. . . .' fhti kfiet having fought tlie Acapuico Ship, all the Ship's Company 'm tir'd of ihcir bad Fortune, and the Captain s ill Manugrmtnt, (a> they n d k) were fur staying no longer in these Seat ; but, as long as they had niaiiNU^ was for going tu the liast Indies, in order to get Home. But E C«p(. not cotuentine, saying, th^t it was 100 soon for the Season, desir'd B to Kay but SIX Weeks longer, in which Time he hop'd to gci somc- 1 least, a belter Ship ; for he proicsled against venturing in the , Gfargf, she being so very leaky; and a* for the Bafk, she was too 'v to cuTy U) all (as he said : ) To which they consented ( I niean the w] ID stay with him, upon Condition he w''^ stay no lunger than (he said Wirkat which he did. After which, we made the most sail wc could 4 Acapulco, olTof which Place we lay tu see if we e'"* meet with any lip nxBtag from the Coast ol Peru, to trade with the Acapulco Ship, aa nid wa* usual : but not meeting with any, we lail'd farther along the ^ to lltf I--Bstwa(d, in older 10 look into all the Harbours, as we Iiasa'd . Bui vheiher by out Capiain's usual Fear ol going too near the •Nhore, otber Reasons known ro no IWy but himselfi we never look'd into any. Jainaiy the ft'", M ihicc a Clock in the Aftrrnoon, the Captain call'd tbe IhMtswain frum the ^uariei-Deck, to cjII all Hands upon Deck, hen he wk'd, Who w" stay with him 10 get Money ? For hia Pan, he ■w with thdt Den)>n, and did not iniviid lo go out of thcra Seas, 'till he II Some. And all those that w''' stay with him, he had them come upon r Q«Htrr-I)eck ; and ihosr that were for gomg awav, might go I'otwaids, d Utrrc WM a Bark for them. Mr. Morgan ask'd him, upon what Account r wa* XMDg .' That if he coniinu'd still upon the tarn* Accoom he came 10 <>k<! ihr I , ro ha.. ,1., tu*n, (liiy will |>i bnndjr 59' J CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S out upon, he v'^ not leave him ; but otherwiie he made Answer, Thai theo he w" not rcBolve hii upon the Queen's Account. Mr. Morgan ami Queen's, but the Owner'*. No matter for that, ( mission. Upon which, a great many went aft to taken, though he knew partly most of them befb and others, who made it their Business, for toiiK and aoiuid those who were willing, upon condition they got, and nothing for the Owners. On the ii'" December 1704, the said Clark i by the Captain's Orders, where he openly spoke Who w'^ stay with Capt. Dampier ? And that upon the same Account that they came out suppose if they were, there was no need ol then who w''' stay with him ; for if he hj than his Promise, no Body could force him, nor tl on the contrary, those that came away, w*^ be ma In short, it is to be much doubted, if those thai 1 calls al) Rogues, had not forc'd him away, wh under the Necessity of surrendering themielfe whether eier he w" come for England, or not. But to return, we continu'd sailing along the St seeing any Thing, or looking into any Harbour w gel something, and so came to an Anchor in d which Time it was continually spoke by those t they w*^ take the Money Mr. Morgan had, « Owners, saying — It was their free Plunder. At said : It not being mentioned in the Bills of Lad the Owners, but that it ought to be dirided amoa| not consenting to the forcing of it from Mr. Morg Will ss several other Contests betwixt those that 1 came away. Captain Dampier's usual Treati ue. Rascal, Son of a Bitch, and other such 1 the Occasion of Mr. Bellhash's Quarrel last « On the 26''', we that were for coming away, ha order to take our Part of Prorisions, which was ei Veinon being appointed for that by Capt. Dampiel for tlicm that were going away. After which to m and our selves from the Enemy, we took 4 Guns, 1 Cases of Pistols, and a Barrel of Powder. for Robbing or Piracy, we made the best of our without a Boat, Rigging, Cables, or any Thing ell by a greater Providence than what Capt. Dam[ Amhoyna. For his Part, he was a great Pilot, 1 but none of us ever had ; and if he c'^ have he then he w''' be sure none could give any Account Conduct, but the World must have been amuz'd w More shall be said of Capuin Dampier hereaftei 1 Wordi illegible. LETTERS AND PAPERS n)e rtadtr mli do ^vell to compare the above with the following letter^ dated Au^ IC/* 1722. — The bumble Petition of Captain John Welbe to Lord Towmbemdy Principal Secretary of State. Second Clatue. — That there is another Conspiracy against Your Petitioner by Mr. Edward Morgan, a Roman Catholics liveing in Bloomsbury Square who was round the globe with Capt. Dampire, the same voyage that Your Petitioner was, and was the death of the first Lievetennant by turning him most barbarously ashore at the Island of St. Jago, where he miserably ended his davs with hunger and greife, and the said Morgan was afterwards the ruin of the said expedition, and now endeavours to ruin Your Petitioner. Augf' 22, 1722. — John Welbe to Mr, Burtt^ book-keeper to Mr, Richard Cambridge, Your Master desired them to have regard to Mr. Morgan's caractor, and not speak disrespectfully of him, etc., altho' you knew he was a Roman Catholicky and had mind Capt Dampire's Expedition, and was then endeavouring to ruin mine. (Signed) Jno Welbe. EDITOR'S NOTE The foregoing pages give the reader the statemcnu of William Funnell, Daropier's reply to them, and John Welbe's answer to the reply. Funnell's statemenu have been discredited by Admiral Smyth ; but I shall refrain firom attacking Funnell till I have found more corroborative evidence either for or against him. Dampier's Vindication must speak for itself. As for Welbe's evidence against Dampier, though it is plausibly put forward, and to some extent supported by what we learn of Dampier from Fisher's evidence (p. 596), it is made worthless by the sutemenu in the above letters. One has but to compare his aniwrr with the extracts given above from the Townshend MSS., to see that he was a man of little truth and evil temper. VOL. II. 593 2 f COURTS-MART Atrial II, 1701. Te the Secrtlary, Hii Hatl'mgt and ImotJ having arrired with " aair ol' the Roehaii'i men," be hope* their Lordthi on the lou of the said ship. Clerk's hand. { At^utt 17, 1701. To the Same, Hai beer that the Roehtuk't boatswain died at Barbadoc Dot come home. Hope* their absence will not ' of our Trial which is frequenily lolicited by son ( ICmgi Street, Golden Square, Seplemier aj, 17 hearty thanlci for ** ye hon'' and favour you doe my approaching trialc." Has hia paperi ready, officers and as many of his men as he can ' Preaumei that it will be uecestary to have " youi delivered you my Journal which pleate to send n { Petlieripi. Hopes that thetr Lordships wi Marual such Letter* and Evidences as were ■ L' Fiiher, that the witnesses may be there swon On September 29, 1701, a Coun-Martial mouth) enquired into the loss of [he Roebuck giying the finding of (he Court have not been pn of the Captain (Dampier), Master, Boatswain'* other* arc to be seen at the Record Office (Co add nothing to the information given by Dampic except that " the leak was very large," and that tl "in ye Eviniog" of September 23, 1700. Letter. To the HonV Joi'ia Burcbel Eif, 5 Sir, — I make bould to trouble yo' Hon'' witi hare been to enquire where I may find more of material witnesses for me in Mr. Fisher's tryal. Three Tun Tavern in Holbourn, Mr Philip Pai in London street nere Ratclitf Cross, he belong not her name, Mr. Hugh Davis belongs to a > name ; Mr. Baptist Watson is as I am informed 594 f COURTS-MARTIAL pov OM fa«T ume, M(. John Pary bclooge to Captain Haddock abord the mttiror, Atrxandrr Bral 1 canoot here dI' and at 1 sent in my former thai I ■irc^ lo tu<r besidn my Officer! as maoy of the Scameo a* can be foundi ■ nery wK can uy tuniewbat in the tryall, viz., Robert Ediingtoni Paul ■alLiBay, &c: Hoablr Sit. I humbly dnire that I may have all ur moit of pnc men and tho«e fotmcrly mentioned at the Tcyall, I am yo* Hon''* I humble irrvant \ Maj lU JJ"" 1 70 J. H^~ D>im/>irr. fcl.ieutnum George Fiaher, the cau«e of Dampier'i diagrace, entered the (■** imployiDcnl in i<>88, and did ituch service it) a gunner at the relief of domlerry, "00 the lath of June l68(j" that he received a warrant an ■BBer of the Fimhip Grifhon. He took part in the engagement off Beacby lad, and icrred b the Royal Oak, the Si. Miihail and the Albtmorlf. H l£th July tft^a he wai " Conimiuioncd LicuicQani of ye Hoe-Huii." \ Hr brought a number of accuialiont againit Dampier ; the chief of them Ibg tbu of cruelly lowardi himietf He alto accuae* Dampier of being a id aniu Of Divigator ; of laying an abominable plot to have him (Fithcr) iillllllil . and of cxcetaive Uxity in maintiining discipline. I Dunpicr'i counier-chatgei accuied Fithcr {inter alia) of " tpeaktng con- |M|itiKKuly of the Lord* of the Admiralty," of *' diiobcdiencc, impudence '~ll ilircaD)" of altering! the ihip't couric contrary to orden; of calliOK hii " kAA Rogue, old Dog, old Cheat " ; and of *' railing a ' " I agtioai the Captain. " FORMATION OF LIEUTENANT FISHFR AGAINST CAPTAIN DAMPIER, LATK COMMANDER OF THE -ROEBUCK" > hia Ex"* TboDHi Earle of Pembroke and Montgonnry &' Lotd Hi{h Adrairall of England &.'., ■• matt humbly addmtcd. The Caw of Lieut. George Fiihrr together with the SulTeringi and Op^eanoiu laid on him by hit Uie Comander Cajil, Wiliiam Vium^et 'n hii Ma*^ Ship Her-Huti, without any Cau*r, lave hii laithfiilneii ■ Ducharge of hit Duty a* will fully appcjr when ii thall pleaae your Ex** to grant him the favour of being 'I'ytd at a Court Martiall. tf^SS. He went voluntarily inio hi* Ma"" Service, and wa* made a nne in the Trainc of Artillciy in Ireland and tor lii* great terticc at ihf ifeiJir of London Dciry on the nth of June i''>f*<^ wa« Dimchargrd that nice, and by leitcra from Major Geocrall Kiik (u iltc Lordi of the Uonralty recomcnded for prel'ermrnt in the Kojal Naty, who were ple^iied '~ y' Rcomendalion to warrant him Gunner ol bii Ma'^* fireihip Griphoti, ' m Oumberltine Coniaiidrr. After Beacbcy head Ln^agrmenl, upon Capt. Chamber I ainc'i Ceitilicaic ' kia bekavii'ur youi Ex"* wai ulraacd to appuint him in 1690 Licutrnani ■ the Rajall Oaie, and tic thrie Cnniioued during the Command* of Capl. [, Capu Lee, Cipt Gardner, Capt. Five* «Ad S' Gcm^c Rooke u flogg. 595 d CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES Thence he was removed into the St. Mlchaell under Capt. Mundeo, and with him afterwards removed into the Albemarle^ and there senred dureing his and Capt Fairbourne's Coma^ of her, untill the Peace dureing all which services he behaved himselfe as became his Duty without any complaint as by the Certificates of his Comanders more fully appears not only by these follow- ing but by more in this Honb^* office. November i, 1698. — Then he was Commissioned Lieutenant of y* Rot- Suck on Board of w®^ in disscharge of his Duty he lay in the Downes,Capt. W"* Dampier Comander. jirticle I . — S' Cloudsley Shovell in the Swiftsure came to an Anchor in y® Downes and made a Signall for Lieutenants, Fisher being then ashoar with leave I mediately hired a Deal Boat, And went on Board y*^ flagg where he found his Commander on the Quarter Deck, who said he had a Secrett to tell him in private, and (having leave) they two went into the Lieuteoaoti Cabin and being alone y*' Capt. said Since you have been ashoar there wai like to have been a Mutiny on Board the Roe^Buck for y* James Grigsea and Jn. Knight had been drinking with the Boatswaine in his Cabin and were over heard by the Master to swear that when they came to sea they would heave the Master over Board and run away with the King's Ship as the Ma* Jacob Hews had acquainted him adding he did not like M' our Boatswaine, and demanded Fisher's advice in the Case. Fisher answered it was proper to acquaint the flagg thereof, which the Capt. promised to do but did not, tho^ Fisher Reminded him severall times thereof. November ^th^ (2). — At 5 at Night Capt. Jumper, Captaine Cleasbte and S' Cloudsley's Secretary came on Board the Rot^Buck with an order to Examine if our Crew were Seamen ; as they were comeing on Board, Fisher Comanded the Boatswaine to order the Pinnace a Stern out of their wsyi but he answered with an Oath he would not obey his Comands when the Capt. was on Board, so that the Capt. and Secretary was forced to come over the Boate to come in, before whom Fisher Complained to his Capt., who was told by them, that he ought to see that Fisher should be protected in his Commands and with all reprimanded the Boatswaine. November ijthf (3). — This morning Fisher moved the Capt. to Punish James Grigsen still finding him a refractory and dangerous Fellow, y* Capt seemed unwilling, untill Fisher told him the Lords of y^ Admiralty ought to be acquainted with it ; Then he ordered Fisher to see him made fast to the Gang-way which he did, and in an hour he was set Loose without any punishment, Fisher told the Capt. it would give an ill Example if he was not punished and sent ashoar ; Then the Captaine ordered him to be made fast a second time, and that Fisher should order the Boatswaine to give him 6 Blows on his back with all his Cloaths on, which was done, and the Captaine said he would tume him and John Knight on shoar just before the ship sailed, Fisher then answered he would goe on Board the Comadore to get 2 Men in their Roomes. December ^tb, — S' Cloudesley Shovell came into the Downes from H(J- land, and Fisher moved the Captaine to Complaine of these Men to S' Cloudesley, but he Cou'd not prevaile. December 6tL — The Flagg was Struck on Board the Swft'Sure and thi 596 COURTS-MARTIAL Board the , c.,.,. Bfaumont Burlington, Hoyued whhhcr Fiiher wtni and acquainted 1 ■uiuiu Fairtioroc with the thtcMened Mutiny, desireing v o( the »'■ Grigien and Knight, and the word being given three gooa tbonieltet, which Fisher acquainted the Captaine with, who I before, ihit he would xcnil them ashtiar when the shipp wna Swleing, and t)ot before, to avoid a Noise; Notwilhitanding which, bcMg hit Old Acc|U3inunce, he carried them to tea. Jmt Mar y iSii, 169^. (4). — I,a«t Night as walking on the Deck with Ca|itttac and Captainci Clerk, Fisher wai taken ill, ard 3 Dropi of I frU fiom hii Nose on his hand, and fainting, went to his Cabbin, fat the Dr., and was Lett Blood, and puit into a Sweat, but Consider- ■ lud 1 Watches that night, sent for the Cheife Mate and aakt by hit Reconing the ihipp wai, but he Cou'd not tell, Fisher said by Rccoaing they were within i J Lcaguet of Algoranca, and Wondred that be BOt the Capuine had ordered to Look out for Land, Advising to Shonen S^ilr and keep a good Look out, which he jironiitcd to «t 6 Next Morning wee made the Idaod Lanceratta alxiut 8 Lejgurt ig S.E., at which the Capiainc and Master were Much Suipiised, 60 Leagues out of their Reckoning. JO/A, (s). — They came to an Anchor in .Sancla Cru/ Roade, the Exftrrimml Galley, Captaine Trevars Comandcr, who Came ad Desired a Hogihead of Small Deer, which the Capiainc granted, mkred Fiiber to km it done. Fisher thereupon ordered the Cooper to k a Bati, and a* he was going to do it mett the Puraer on ihe Deck, Tbfntvurd to break his head if he obeyed l'*iiihera order thrr«!n> crrupon before Captainc Trevart Conipbined to his Commander, to bear him out in his Coinands. in which Capuine Treren bun, taying, if you Sutfer your Lieutenant to be thus used it may of 111 Coitscijuetice in your Voyage. NcvenheleM hia Commander would k do him Justice therein, u appears by Capuine Trevors Affidavit ready be prodnccd. Jmmmj j(»/, (fi). — -This Morning ihe Captaine, Docior, .ind l*uiMr niMboir, and the Captainc gave Fisher Lhvc tofjo Aiboar »l»u, who did, A FkUkt Cjtried some Letters to Merchants to he Sent [o I'ingland by e &tsi ahipp, and coming to one Mr. Hopper, Merchant, he (here found I Captainr, Doctor, Puricr, Capti. Gierke and James Barnjhy at the wid Fiiber Delivered hia LeiKra and waa returning, iwt the lanted him to stay and dine with him, he accepted it, a* they stayed [Cther >o(ill tl at Night, aitd in their retume the Cspt. in a very MoroM met said to Fiiher t>e bad better kia* the Bruich of hi* Young Men ihra Meddle wTih them, which Sui)>ri>ed Fisher, at not knowing bis mnniagt d MkiBf hb Meaning, he ni'I Fisher had he^ten jainn Oarasby then IWM [ Fitbrr dcneyed it, or that he ever Threatened 10 Beat him, and imb* kiauelfe oWi>ed the same, and tlut Fiaher had been very kind la D. Nolwiihatanding which the Captitoe said he would putt Fisher in BM whets he came cm Board. Fiiher rcplyed he wsi ncn wsv fir fliim the of ibe Admiralty but ihry would have notice ot hu duings, uimn iliis Fisher in ihr Uar to cane ILrnaliy, which it he had 597 I I I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES done, Fisher perceiving their Intent was to draw and Runn him Through in the SculHe as afterwards appear' d ; Comeing to the Waterside the Captaine went into the Castle to the Governour, and Fisher went on Board and the Gierke with him, when he Came into the Steerage he told the Officers they would see him in Irons when the Capt. Came on Board, why said they, what have you done, nothing said Fisher, the Clerke replyed, no he should not, why said Fisher, are you Capuine, gett you out of the Steerage. Thii Clerke was a Base Impudent fellow, and would frequently say the shipp would not goe home this 7 Yeares, and Sometime that Shee would oerer goe home. February znd^ (7). — About Noone, Fisher being Sitting on the Quarter Deck, Orders were given for two Puncheons of Beefe to be Hoysted out of the Hold and sent ashoar to Mr. Hopper, a Merchant. The Captaioci Clarke came to Fisher and askt him if he did not hear the Shipp Coropaoj Complaine of their Provisions goeing a Shoar to be sold, which thenueivft should want, Fisher Bid him goe downe and acquaint the Captaine of it, which he did, and comeing back said, the Captaine tooke no Notice of it. Then Fisher went downe and told the Captaine, the Consequence thereof if they came to want Provisions, upon which it was Stopt. But Fisher fouod reason to beleive this was a Trick betwixt the Captaine and his Clarke to putt the Purser upon Selling of Provisions to Create a Differance betwixt the Purser and him for the better Carrying on his greater and most Villanoos designes w*** Safety. February '^rd^ (8). — This afternoon the Shipp Weighed fh>m Sancu Cruz Road. When under Saile James Barnaby came to Fisher and told him be had saved his life ; how said Fisher, Barnaby replyed, Andrew Gastier the Spanjard on Board told his Countreymen on Shoare you had beatd and used him Barbarously, and desired their Assistance to kill you when on Shoare, which they promised to do, and I understanding Spanish and hearing this, Told the Spanjards all he had said of you was false to my knowledge, bat on all Occasions the contrary, upon which the Spanjards turned him out of their Company. Fisher acquainted the Captaine herewith, who made Slight of it, and Called him fx>oll for believing it. But this very Spanjard afterwards Leaving the Shipp at Brazille, Confisst the whole Matter, and that it was the Captaine and his Clarke who had Sett him upon it to take away Fisher's Life, and that he had done it if Barnaby had not prevented him. February i lib, — The Shipp Anchored in the Bay of the Isle of May where they found Mr. Barfoot, Master of the Ncutport of London, to whome the Purser Sold Provisions for Wine and Brandy, and becauie Fisher would not take a part of it nor be concerned in it he was very mucli Dissturbed and Angry. February \*jtb^ (9). — About Noon the Shipp sailed out of May Roadc for the Island of St. lago, which is about 5 Leagues over ; it being th( Masters first Watch, Fisher went to Sleep, but at 3 in y* Morning, hearioj the Men cry out Land, presently got up on y® Quarter Deck and Looking under the Lee of the Maine Saile Saw the wash of the Shoare and Askt tb< Captaine what he Designed to doe ; he Answered (as if Crying) he did 001 know what the Master Designed ; said Fisher if you Lett him do what b< 598 COURTS-MARTIAL he will Knock the Kiags Shipp at head, the Master being then So Iniiik hr coulil not Marxt on h<a Leggs. The Captainc Walked off ihe kaner Deck and FinliM urdi'mi [lie Helm alt Lre, and if the ehipp had ^ ^laTc^l the had run Ai-hoar, »hce havein^ all the imall Sailes Sett at y' mr time. Feinurt t^rJ, (lo), — Being the 2d Day of her SnJIcing from St. lago the cTcning the Capiaine ask't Finher to Clubb for a Bowie of Punch, i which he Conaenied, the Capuinc .... Purser and Gierke only ring Pfrtmt : whil*t drinking it the CapiAine «aid bad he Comnianded one F tbe Kingi Shipp) in the Late Warr all French Men he Took in Wfi teeii we would have Tyed back to back and Thrown over Board, ldi«g 'aU the Kng Captoines were fouls, they did not do it. Fiiher bhcd tl wa- n Tery Cruell thought and th.it the Frrnch would have ^Bhkrf it, but he (Wore he would have done it. K^Ths Doctor uid it wai barbarously Intended. ■ ^Ilw CqiuiDe answered it would have made a Quick End of the Warr. brr nsd it would have rather Prolonged it and Created a Irreconcileable red, ud that if all Nations would give noc protection to Pirates, but If ibcm W soon as taken it would be of good service to all Traders aad. The Captaine Demanded what he ment by Pyrates, Fiiher nwred *ucb an Freryc and hi> men were ; be iworc if he mctt with any vf dd not hurl them, nor a hairc of y*" heads. Fiiher answered ■I he bcittg now one of the King» Captaines and h^d the Kings Commii- I onght a* he Concrifed wherever he found Such, to secure them and ig tbrin to Juiticc. 't'he Capt. kept his word as will appear hereafter. Fiirwarj tffi, (l i>~This Evening Fisher Drinking a Bowie of Punch k the dpiainc ia his Cibbin there was also Doctor, Purser and Clarke, C«ptaine sent for -Fames Grigjon down, and laid, Mr. Gngion I Beg y' dua for Puniihing you in the Downei, liut it was to picatc one Man, brr hivmg the Bowie in hii hand, and much surprised and Concerned to r his Capt. Brgg sn Base a lellows Pardon whome he knew to be a Mm, and ai is before uid himselfe Complained off to Fisher in DiiwiiM, and Ask't his Advice what to do with him and at whose iMIfiUiiM be wa* Punished, Sett the Bowie downe, fmlled olf his batt It MytDg iKie wotde, witlidrew into his owne Cabbin and reflected on ikiofi had pissed perticularly what the CIcrkc had uid, Vii' That bvf would find Captaine Dampier another sort of a Man when he came ' other «ide the I-'({uinoctall Line, That it would be a Long time Ihe Shipp vou'd got home, which Fisher often told the Ciptaiiw who favn would uke any notice of it to his Clarke, but upheld him in it and as FUicf had reason to b'leive did .Send bit Clerke often amons the Shippt h*«, to fathom thriie Inclination* and how they were Inclined to a Long toftit and to joyne with him into any Villanoui Action. M«ftt ^th, (ii). "Walking with the Captaine on the Quarter Deck, ibn Aak't him what Place on the Cnaati of Braulle he Desifincd to go to Ptnumbuck or Baja, he answered he had not resolved, But ai a Secrerl _|uin(H) him, That Mr. Flamstod the great Maihrmatiiion told him in Ei^lbwl thai wbcs he Caow to the Coast of Braiille his men would Mutiny, BpfcW lt ipty«J he cou'd IKK beleevt any such Uiing, for by hta obaerviiian I I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES all his officers and men seemed very Easie and quiett ; well says he, Yoa will see it when you come there. March ^th^ (^S)* — Happened some words Betwixt Fisher and the Purser concerning 1 500 weight of Bread which had received wett and was ordered downe in the Powder Roome which was a Damp place, and the Gunner had spoke severall times to the Purser to remove it and spend it first, but he would not do it, upon which the Gunner had complained to Fisher and that the Bread would be Spoyled, and Fisher to the Purser, who still answered if it was spoild he would pay it. Fisher then Complained to the Captaine, the Purser present, who gave the same answer, and told Fisher it was none of his business. Railed and Called him Knave Rogue &^., The Captaine Countenanceing him therein. March 6tby(i^), — Fisher with the Doctor and Purser being of die Captaines Mess, and at Dinner, the Capt. tooke in his Gierke ; whiles at Table y^ Purser said the Carpenter owed him eighteen shillings which be would not pay, would therefore putt it Downe in the Shipp Booke. The Captaine not understanding the Methods of the Navie, Fisher said y^ ! .* Purser ought not to do it, nor cou'd answer it, and if the Carpenter should Complaine of it at pay Table, it would ruine him, but the Purser and Clerke most rudely told him, he Lyed, upon which he Desired to goe out of the Captaines Mess and after shewed him his Instructions, by w^^ it appeared to be true as Fisher had said. The Cap^^* Replyed he Could not Comply with those Instructions. Three or 4 Day after the Gunner Complain'd to the Cap** y* the X 500 Weight of Bread was all spoild and not Eauble ; then the Cap*^- ordred it up and it appeared Mouldy and RiU of Redd Specks. The Purser then renewed his Scurrilous Language of Rogue and Villain before the Capt. to Fisher, who finding them all of a Peece and the Captaine Suffering it, wai forced to take it Quietly, and the Shipps Company was putt to whole allowance of Bread and the Mould mixt amongst the good. March loM, (15). — The Cooke and some of the Shipps Company Complained to Fisher it was 3 in the afternoon and had no beer. The Cooper being Examined Said it was out, Fisher ask't the Cooper if y® CapL had ordred him not to Broach any more Beer, he answered No. Then Fisher ordred him to Broach a fresh Butt for the Shipps Company which he did. After the Captaine Sent for the Cooper upon the Quarter Deck and for no other Cause but for obeying Fishers said order, in a Violent Manner Caned him, and broke his head. Then Sent for Fisher up and Demanded why he ordred a Butt of Beer to be Broacht, and before he Could answer fell on him with his Cane and Caned him to the forecastle and confined him to his Cabbin. Betwixt the loth and i6th of March, Fisher found the Capt. had further Villanyes to Countenance and Act against him, having held severall Private Consults in the Night w*^ his Clerke who Fisher knew to be a great Villaine in Divers respects and therefore was jealous they intended to take away his Life, and a Note was throwne into his Cabbin by one of the Shipps Company, that he heard the Clerke sweare if he was Captaine he would han^ Fisher and 2 or 3 more in two Days, and Fisher thought his Capt. was taking his Advice, for on the i6th in the Mornmg he ordred all handi 600 ; otdred iota Iron*, and ihr Boat- ■ found * good nun and would nut COURTS-MARTIAL tic Called up, and then uid they had a Dengne to Mutiny i all bwend No, nor ncrer ihnughi of Such a Dctignc tmi were rrry willing (■ScfTc under him t he ihcn Said it was a Surmiic of hii ownr. But Fiiher I CWkc and Grigaon were hi> lafofmeri; at Doon th« I Touke Fi«her out of hi« Cabbin, puit Irooi on hira and re'd him in againe, where he Lay in Great Miiery and all iliit ; any Cauae Alledged, and under it the CapCaine Caned him ilently and Lockt him up CIok, tiiat with the Heat and being under the t sod forced to Eaie Njcure, there, he wai almoit Siiflled lu Death, «■ V Doubt wai intended he ihou'd be, for he aaid he Cou'd hang Fialiet but p bdccTCii thi> Confinement would do hia buiincu, March 19/A, (16). — Being Sunday the Cjptaine ordted the Boattwaine } Call u|i all handa and ilie .Sm^ll Arii)e« on the Quariei Deck l^oadrd, h wai done, and he lold them he hejrd some of ihera deaignrd to Leave tf Shijip, when they came to Brazille, to which all were Surpriaely Silent) " ~ ine then Called John Boate, Owen Hatria and Alexander Beale, i them in be made fiat to ihe Gangwjy, and then Examined them anything of an Intended Mutiny; All ) lold him No, But _^ f lutderaiood that the Captainc and Clcrkc would faignc ba»e had Bir'tf Iba Shij'pt Comjiany Swear falarly sgainat bim, but Could find none [do it but the ajid .lamr« Grigaon, •1"° brcauae tbo»e 3 poor men would falaely aeainat him they t ine to hii Catifoin becauK he w 'ken to their wicked advice. The Shipp then Steered away for Bdja in the Bra/.ilei, and there «rri*eil Ihe ajrd of March, when the Capt. acnt one Aihoat to . . . Acuuaini r Goiernor, that l''iaher waa ■ great Rogue and would have killnl and the Captainr. The Governor otdred Kiihei •iiould be aent ' if the Ca[/* had ) Wiitneaa to profe it or Mutiny would ■g lUBI. Marti m, 1699.— The Cap'" ordered the Maiicr to Carty Fiaher out Ua Cloae Continem' Aihmr Priaoner aivl take a Strung Guarde w" imI Piaialli, and in th^ti Manner he wu carried oo Shnar i pnt iiua a Caitle amongit Ncgroc*, Molettoa and condemned peraoot ■II mamer of Villanie* where he Lay until] y* 4th of July fnllowmg. The Shipp Stayed at Baja a Month, Init the Cain. he* nor any of hia Crew but by Stealth, The Cj|t. Cunimmdin)! them 10 Contrary on Se»ere Threati, but the Captjioe himaelf Atiociainl with enll of Bierieet Crew. Here Fiaher Petitioned the Gotecnour that Capt. Dumpier and btmtelfr ■cnt for and beard before him and all the Olficera in the fihipp ind if it appeared he had Comiited Mutiny ur any oihot Crime wuuld not Complaine if he Suflered Death, addmg it w*a lUH Legally In Capuinr* Power to Leair him there a Priaonrr. The Gritrmtiur Kite Prthioo and aaid be could not Conceroe bimielfr wilh the King ttl glaada officetij had only Lent the Cairt, a Priion. Fiaher then wiiile M CapUitle if aay men he had that cou'd accuae him miKbl he afnt nti Hhnat . make Oath hrfore the Juatice there, but he reloard nnd kept lilnorllr on decUrrd he would Leave Flatter Miind, «ad ac<ardii)|ly M>M 601 1 CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES one Joseph Bugsby and Rob* Rayns Fishers Seryant ashoar and at Bap Entred 4 men more than his Complyment. Fisher seeing he must be left behind, sent for his Cloaths Chest, Books, Goods and some Provisions to carry him his Servant and Joseph Bugsby to Lisbon ; w^ much Importunity he sent what of his Goods he pleased. Tore what he pleased out of his Journall, and sent 4 Month Provisions for Fishff and his Servant which the Portuguese stole from him but none for Bugsby, and sailed y* 23th of Ap^ for Madagascar. As Fisher beleeves sometime after Joseph Bugsby Dyed of the Country Desease at Baja, Else would have been a good Wittness for Fisher. Soe that Fisher besides all Abuses and Wrongs on Board was kep't a Close Prisoner at Baja from the 8th of March 1 699 to the 4th of Jnly following, when he was sent Prisoner on Board a Portuguese Shipp for Lisbon, as appears under the hand of John Earle Esq'*, his Ma^^ Coosnll at Lisbon, readie to be produced, where he safe arrived in October, and hu Case being Examined was Sett at Liberty and came home a passenger io December 1699, And hath been ever since out of his Ma^~ Service. George Fisher. Examined and declared. In Cur. (1702). Jn. Bathurst and Jn. Hov. THE INFORMATION OF CAPTAIN Wm. DAMPIER AGAINST LIEUTENANT FISHER 1. His Contempt of ye Captn. When the Ship lay in ye Downes Mr. Philip Pain, Gunner of the Roehuck^ discoursing with L'* Fisher about the Captain, the L** said dam him for an old Rogue he minds nothing. 2. Speaking Conten^tuotuly of the Lords of the jidmiraity. He the id Lt. did often speak against the Lords of the Admiralty before Purser, D'* and Mr. James Brands ; reproved for it by the Capt*** 3. DisobeMence, Impudence and threats ; this tvas heard and seen by Banuij and Gunner. The 28*^ of January the L'* was goeing to put his bed and bedclothes into the Pinnace that lay on the boomes, and the Boatswain toold him that the Captn. had ordered him to suffer no man to go into the Boat, nor put anything in her, the L'* replyed; the Captn. ought to hate acquainted me with it, and ordered the bed to be put into the Boat, the Captn. seeing a man and boy in the Boat, told the L** that he did expect it from him to show good examples, the L** presently bent his fist and held it to his nose and sd he did not care a for him, and also tould the Captn. that if ever he saw James Barnaby on the quarter-deck he would kick him off. Mr. Barnaby was a midshipman. 4. The Lieutenant alters ye cours contrary to ye Capts, orders. About the 8th of March the Captn. ordered to steer away south, the wind was at East ; in a short time afterwards the Captn. going off the deck, L^* Fisher altered the Cours and ordered to keep close on a wind S.S.E. ; being then two ^ so*** of ye Line. 5. The L^' meanes to insinuate himself into the favour of ye men, (Wit- nesses — Mr. Hughes etc. ) About the 8th of March there were some bags ol bread brought on the deck out of the Powder room. The L^* opened one 602 COURTS-MARTIAL )i rn ihc wut and pecking out 3 cake thai was a liitic mp Mfing grnttrmcn ihii luldy lictd o eat ; the Boatswain standing by him II wor» ih»D damnified brrad, but the M'- turning it all out on the deck tJiriR titat he had eaten wot* bread in the Channel of England, the &)■(&. lould the turn they ahduld eat good bread and the damnilied should Ise thrown averboatd. 6. nil agmvations and tiaiiJaloui iiiagf of ye Capin. The lOthofMarch C-ipto. >|icjltinK roughly to the L'- for broching a butt of beer in ihe night, Ik calhl the Cjpt"* names loftly, and urged the Capin. to strike him, then he loodlr calld him a grc-it many ill names, as old Rogue, old Dog, old Cheat, and tndeiioured to Mirr up the seamen to a mutiny, by telling them thut the Captn. kneai ttoi whe^thet he waa going, that he wag no artist, that he knew BOthing, hat wai a mere theaf, and when he would not be silent, but con- ■laiitlf coatinurd railing on his Captn. he was at last conlincd to his Cabbin. 7. Hii aistiitale periiilrnit m giving icurraloui language. The next day ilicii be cotninued niltng on the Captn. and calling of him as many invent; the Captn. sent Mr. Hughei to the !.'■ to ■ietin liim 10 hould hi* tongue or cite he should be forced to take olhrr wiih him, ihe L'" repiyed let the old rogue I nm r and will speak what I please, and all the time af'eiward as long ■t he wa* abotd he conntandy raild at ihc Captn. and call him name* caprcially when he passed through ihe steerage. 8. .... . . (Witne»»es — 3tr. Hughti, Bamahy, and Gunner.) Tbe iHih day at night many of the olTicei* desired the Captn. to get his brddins and cloaihi on to ihe Quarter deck and lye there being aprchea- ■ire oi tone design againn him by Mr. I-'isher'! accomplices, the Captn. (tooke) their counccll and ordered the gunner to secure the Gunroom dore, Uie next morning all the small armes were got on the quarter deck 10 rat a rising, atid some men luggisird and examined, wherein ihey tax ■»cb other, namely Baptist Watson and Alexander Beal, and searching Boat they feund a (uipci wrlittn against the Captn. and he said he was tnlentd to write it by the L'- . He told the Master that if the Captn. d [word flkfiUe — ? died) that he is no more but Matter; and sometime jner at ~ior in the harbour of B^hia de Todoa Santos he sent the Mailer to _ CapQi. 10 riciire that lie mighi be »ent to Pnrlugall in one of the haruigwt Bsen a ware, and to he sent from tliense to l-infjlaiid, ihr Captn. this, hut ihurlly after pasving through (he ileredg the L'' itoU him thai he had sent to know if he might be sent to [vnglaod by the Wiv of Pnrtugall the Captn. told him it wai time enough to think of ihit, ivfasck *o intrenied the t/- that he cilld him all the ill names that he could 10. Tht IM- mitlititu itnjfidi Suggrilioni ta the Gevfrnoyr ami Mtrtbanit '^ B^ti*. (Wiincts — Mr. llughrt.) The l.t. continuing railing and inceiu- ig tb« men agairitt the Captn. he wat forced at last to send him ashore in i>pe» of tamring him ihete. but to no purpo«e for he tends lettef* to the tomnour compiainmg of the Captn. but ii not minded, then he tends for Dane* mrrchMtil and tell* liim yt it was not long since tlie Captn, had Dn-ch ship and barbarously lued the men and deairtd the n 603 I I CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S VOYAGES to acquaint the Govcrnour of it yt the Captn. might be secured the next day ; a Dutch seaman that was their interpreter came abord and told it before the Master and severall others. II. Indeavours to he revenged hj stirring the Cleargy, (Witness — Mr, Brands.) About the lO Or 12 of April when he found that the GoTerooor would not take notice of what he sd, he struck in with the Church, but the Captn. had notice of it and forbore coming ashore. W^* Dampier. Signature in a darker ink and written with a finer pen. MINUTES OF THE COURT-MARTIAL At a Court Martiall held on Board her Map** ship the Rojall Sottoerane att Spithead on Munday the 8th day of June, 1702. PRSSBNT The Honble Sir George Rooke, Vue^Admrall of ' England^ zvA jidml.oj her Maf' Fleet, etc.. President : Sir Clowd«y Shovell, Adml, of yt White } Tho. Hopson, Esq'*, Vice-Adnd, ; S'* Stafford Fairebouroe, Rere'Adml, Captns, Graydon, Greenway, Haddock, Turville, Jn. Leake, Edwardei, Jn. Johnson, Guy, Myngs, Tho. Robinson, Rnapp, Tho. Mitchell, Wyvell, Haughton, Crowe, Jn, Mitchell, P. Arc Hamilton, Jn, Jennings, Pedder, Smith, Bokenham, Wisheart, Cowper, Ste. Martin, Dilke, Good, Long, Howard, Maynerd, Rumsey, Foulke, Harlow. All duely sworne pursuant to a late Act of Parliament, etc. Enquiry was made by the Court into the Difference betwixt Capt" Will" Dampier late command' of her Maj" ship the Roe^huci, and George Fisher Lieut"^ of the same ship, and their mucuall Complaints against each other, of many Irregularities and undue Practices committed by each of them in their late Voyage to India in the years 1698 and 1699. The Court having strictly examined into all the particulars of their severall Informations : Is of opinion that it has appeared to ye Court by Evidence upon oath that Cap'" William Dampier has been guilty of very Hard and cruell usage towards Lieutenant Fisher in beating him on Board ye sd. Ship, and confining him in Irons for a considerable Time, and afterwards Imprisoning him on shore in a strange Countrey, and itt is Resolvd that itt dos not appeare to ye Court by ye Evidence that there has been any grounds for this his ill usage of him, and that the sd. Captain Dampier i^lls under ye 33rd Article for these his Irregular proceedings, and the Court dos Adjudge that Hee be Fined all His Pay to ye Chest att Chatham, exclusive of about Fifty Pounds stop'd in ye Treasurer of ye Navies Hand for in- demnifying the Queen as to a Bill drawn on ye Navy Board by L' Fisher from Lisbon ; and itt is farther the opinion of ye Court that the said Capt Dampier is not a Fitt person to be Employ'd as comd' of any of her Ma*^ ships. 604 COURTS-MARTIAL And the Court is of opinion that the InformatioDS sett forth by Capt" Dampier against L' Fisher have not been made Good, and therefore die Court dos Aquit him from that Charge. Then the Court proceeded to enquire concerning the death of John Norwood, late Boatswain of ye Roe^buci^ itt having bin suggested that his death had bin in a great measure occasiond by ye severity and hardship of his confinement by Captain Dampier then command' of the sd. Ship, in their late Vovage to India. The Court having strictly enquird into that matter : Is of opinion that itt dos not appeare by ye Evidence that the sd. Jn. Norwood's confinement was the Cause of his Death, and therefore ye Court do's Acquit the sd Captn. Dampier as to the Death of Jn. Norwood , Late Boats w" of ye Roc^hucL (Signed by) Rooke. S. Fairborne. Jno. Graydon. A. Hamilton. Tho. Robinson. Hen. Haughton. J. Jennings. Pr. Haddock. H. Cooper. Tho. Long. C. Rumsey. Hen. Turvile. Clow**' Shovell. J. Leake. Fran. Wyvell. Chr. Myngs. S. G. Foulke. J. Wishart. Edw**- Good. Jn. Johnson. Tho. Hopeonn. Will. Bokenham. J. Dilkes. James Green way. R. Edwards. Jn. Maynerd. T. Harlowe. J. Knapp. Jos. Crowe. Chas. Guy. Tho. Mitchell. Jn. Mitchell. Geo. Smyth. Steph. Nlartin. Act in Cur. J. Bathurst, Jud. Advg. (Endorsed) Soveraign at Spithead, 8 June, 1702. Court Martiall Enquiry into the difference bctw. Capt. Dampier and L Fisher, and into the Death of Jn. Norwood, his laie Boatsw*** 605 INDEX Atlantick Sea {continued) — Trade winds in, ii. 2jo, 232-233 Winds near the line in, i. 234 Australia, i. 357, 450 ; ii. 349 et seq, Aves, Isle of, i. 78 and note *, 79-80, 89 Little Isle of, 82 Ay nam, Islands of, 562 and note^^ 573 Bahama Islands, i. 102 Bahia de todos los Santos, ii. 379-400, 402-403, 445 Baker, Mr., ii. 196 Balachaun, ii. 579-580 Balderas, valley of, i. 290 and note ' Baldivia, i. iii andnote*^ 121-122 and note Bambo-Achar, i. 389 Bang, ii. ^4 and note ^ Bantam, ii. 65, 102, 108 Barbadoes, ii. no, 314 Barcolongo, the, i. 53 and note ^ Barefoot, Capt., ii. 358, 372 Bark-logs, i. 165 and note-i6j Barker, Mr. B., i. 102 Barlow, Mr., i. 490 Barralaventa Fleet, ii. 220 Bashee Islands, i. 415 and note^-^ij^ 420-428, 431 Basilan Islands, i. 379 and notes-'fio Batan Island, i. 416 note Batangan, Cape, i. 563 note * Batavia, i. 436 Batsha village, i. 566 and note Batt Island, i. 382 and note ^^ 385 Bayedore, Cape, ii. 242 Bays more subject to rain than head- lands, ii. 299-301 Beef farms, i. 242, 256 Beef hunting in the Western Lagune, ii. 179-180 Beef Island (Carmen Island), ii. 152- 153, i55i 176, 185, 189-196, 198 Beer, Chinese, i. 414 and note ^-^i^ Bees, ii. 208 Bees-wax, i. 340 Bells, church, dispute as to, ii. 32-34 Bencalis (Bangkali), ii. 41 and note-^7 Bencouli (Benkulen), i. 394 and note^ 489, 496 and note, 501, 506-507, 610 ; ii. 29-30, 100-105 Bengal Bay — Climate, i. 583 Channel, ii. 51 Winds, ii. 246 Bermudas Isles^ i. 60, 102, 173 Betel leaf, i. 327-328, 562, 576, 602, 603 Bill-Birds, ii. 169, 395 andnote^ Birds— Roca's Islands, of, i. 83-84 Tonquin, of, i. 577-578 Birds, Island of, i. 79 Black birds of Campeachy, ii. 167 Blake, Admiral, ii. 352 ami note Blanco, Cape, i. 86, 131, 137 cmi note-i-fiy 162-163; ii. 242, 257, 320 Blanco, Island of, i. 87 and noU^-Uj 95 Blewfield, Capt., i. 63 Blewfields, i. 143 Blewfields Hill, ii. 141 a/idnote* Blewfields River, i. 62 and noie\ 63 and note Expedition down, 63-68 Blood wood, ii. 1 59 Bloom, Govemour, ii- 47 Blooms, i. 5 1 1-5 12 Bocco del Drago, i. 64 and note Bocco del Toro, i. 62 and noti\ 64 andnote^ 68-69, I3ij 252 Bon Airy (Buen Ay re), i. 77 andnoU\ 78-79 Bonano-tree, i. 325 Bond, Capt., i. 103 and note '-104, 106, 210 and note *-2ii^ 219 Booby birds, i. 79 and note\ 83, 295 ; ii. 128-129 Borneo, i. 340, 373 and note, 430 Boutan, Kingdom of, i. 611 Bouton Island, i. 443 and noU- 448 Bowman, W., i. 47 and note Bowry, Capt., i. 373, 487-488 Bowyers, Mr., ii. 31 Branly, Capt, i. 228, 231 Brazil — Climate of, ii. 298-299 Cotton flower of, ii. 445 Trade winds off coast of, ii. 24; 244 Vegetation of, ii. 387-400 Bread fruit, i. 302 and note ', 307 an notes-y>S Brewer's Streights, ii. 39-40 Brewster, Capt., ii. 32, 39 BufFadore, the, i. 251 Buffaloes, ii. 55 Buggasses, ii. 38 608 INDEX Bullocks— Hocksing, Spanish method of, ii. I93-J94 Preserving skins of, ii. 185-186 Burt on- wood, i. 127 Bush men, ii. 321 Cabbage trees, i. 115, 187 and Hote- ls \ ii. 53, 393 andnote^ Cables — Coir, i. 30^ cmd note-yoh Piassava, li. ^84 and notes ' and ' Rattans, of, ii. 89-90 Tresabo, ii. 388 Cacafuego^ Tfu^ i. 156 157 and noU Cacao-tree, i. 89-92, 175 ; ii. 208, 214, 215 ; white, ii. 207 Cachao, city of, i. 5^7 and note, 569- S70, 581, 582, 594-598 Province of, i. 572, 573, 574 Cautr^ 1 ke^ i. 559, 560 Caihooca, i. 253 Calabash, i. 43 and note Caldera, Bay of, i. 139-144 California — Lake of, i. 286 andnote^ Pearl fishery of, i. 194, 279 Callasusung (Kalin Susu), i. 444 and Hote-44,% Cambodia — Kingdom of, i. 393 ; ii. 36-38 River of, i. 388, 561 Campbell, Mr. O., ii. 186 Campeachy Bay — Anchorage in, i. 419 Animal life of^ i. 64, 117 ; ii. 160-171 Climate of, i. 583 Currents of, ii. ^18 Fish of, i. 95; iu 171-177 Fruit of, i. 223, 278 Land and sea breezes in, iu 256-259 Logwood cutters, see that title Norths and souths in, ii. 282, 285 Ri%*ers and towns of, ii. 198-222 Savannahs of, i. 1 14 Sea coast of, li. 144-147 Seasons of, ii. 1 57, 299 Soil of, ii. 160 Summasenta winds in, iL 265-266 Trees of, i. 187 ; ii. 158-159 Voyage to, from Jamaica, ii. 114- otherwise mentioned, L 89, 127, 131, M7, 149, 507 Campeachy town, i. 92 ; ii. 147-149 Camphire, ii. 54 Cam-wood, i. 106 and no/e*; ii. 160 Canales Island, i. 232 Canary Islands, ii. 350 et seq, Canby, Mr., cited^ 1. 301, 443; ii. 17, 242 Cancer, Tropic of, trade wind in, ii. 231, 232 Cane, Mr. W., ii. 184-185 Canes, i. 381 and note Caneo Island, i. 235 Cannibals, i. 471 and note ^-/^72 Canoas — Manner of making, i. 234 Nicobar Islands, of, i. 467 Cantarras Island, i. 232 Canton, i. 401, 402, 561 andnote^ Capalita, River, i. 251 Cape River, i. 153 Cape of Good Hope — Account of the country, i. 96, 409- 410, 510-515 ; ii. 200 Course to England from, i. 528 Currents of, ii. 319-320 Dutch settlement at, i. 513-516 Natives of, i. 517-522 Caput Cavalli, i. 281 Caraccos, coast of, i. 88-95, 4i9 '•> i^* 241 Town, i. 92 Carbery, Earl of, ii. 207 and note^ Carcass, i. ^^ and note * Caribbe Indians, i. 471 and note*- 472 ; ii. 1 10 Caribbe Island, i. 245; ii. 241 Carpenter's River, i. 59 and note^* 60, 89 Carrion crows, ii. 168-169, 394 Carthagena, i. 69, 71, 72 and note^^ 75, 200, 204, 205 Winds peculiar to coasts of, ii. 266- 268 Cashew fruit, ii. 390-391 Casivina, Point, 1. 146-147, 152 Catoch, Cape, i. 150, 159, 256; ii. IK-116, 118, 121, 132 Cavendish, Sir Thomas, i. 275, 293 and note * Caymanes Island, i. 133 and note; ii. ii4f i33-"34, 175.399 Cedar trees, i. 60, 289 Celebes Island, i. 420, 437-441 Centapees, i. 329 and note * Chagra, River, i. 57 and note* Chambers, Capt., ii. 235 VOU II. 609 2 Q INDEX Cbambongo (Zamboango), i. 379 Chametly, Islands of (S. of Tropic of Cancer), i. 277 afui nofe^-2yS Chametly, Keys of (E. of Cape Cor- rientes), i. 272-273 Champa, i. 397 Champello, Islands of, i. 561 and note *-562 Champeton, River, ii. 149 Chandler, Capt., ii. 189, 190, 196 Chau, i. J 82 Cheape, 1. 248 Cheapo, River, i. 52, 54, 222 and note^^ 224-225, 231 Cheapo Town, i. 44, 201, 225 Checapeque Creek, ii. 212-213 Chepelio Island, i. 222 and notes-22^^ 226 Chequetan, i. 265 Cherburg, ii. 160 Chiapo Mts., ii. 198, 204 Children, sale of, by parents, i. 588, 599 Chili, i. 98, 118^ 121-122, 418 China — Coast of, visit to, i. 402 et seq. Navigation to, ii. 248 China earthenware, i. 404-405 China-root, i. 405 and note Chinchanchee, ii. 119 Chinese — Appearance and customs, i. 403-405 Cochinchina, in, i. 569 Drinks made by, i. 414-415 Gaming, fondness for, i. 592 ; ii. 63 Idols of, i. 394, 406-407 Industries of, i. 404-405 Jonks of, i. 407 and note-/^oZ Malacca, of, ii. 85 Manilan trade of, i. 386, 402 Pirates settled in Cambodia, ii. 37 Tartar conquest of, i. 403 Traders to the Achin goldfields, ii. 62-64 Women, i. 404 Chirapee, Bay of, i. 167 Chocolate, i. 90 Chocolatto Norths, ii. 142, 281 Chop sticks, ii. 17 Christianity, state of, in the East, ii. 26-28 Christmas Island, i. 460 and note ^461 Chuche Island, i. 230 and note Chucquebul, ii. 153 Clam, the, i. 197 Cliffs, high, reason for calling, ** bold shores," i. 419 Clocking hens, ii. 395-396 Clovebark, i. 325 Cloves, i. 325-326, 355 Cobaya, Isles of, i. 185, 188, 229 and note^ Cobson, R., i. 70 Cochinchina, i. 393, 561 et seq, Cochinchinese, i. 392, 561 Cochineel, i. 247-248 Cockles, monster, i. 439 Cockrecoes, ii. 169-170 Coco-nut oil, i. 305 Coco-nut trees, i. 137, 303-307, 461- 462, 465, 466 ; ii. 388 Coco-plum bush, ii. 151 Cocos Island (Keeling Island), i. 136 and note *-i37, 458 emd note\ 460 Colan, i. 164-165, 167 Collima, i. 89 and note^ 267, 268-269 Colorado Sholes, ii. 133 andnote^ Comana, i. 93 and note ' Comesserie tree, ii. 388 Comorin, Cape, i. 432 and note^y $t^\ ii. 246 Compass, azimuth, i. 512-513 Compos talla, i.. 280 and note^j 283-284 Conception, River, i. 53 ; ii. 160 Condecedo, Cape, ii. 116 and note, i I7i 121,144 Condore, Pulo, i. 561, 563 Congo, River (America), i. 38, 44, 47 Congos, River, i. 214 and note ^ Constant, Captain, ii. 72 Content, The^ ii. 109 Cook, Captain, i. 135, 138-139, 213 Cook, Mr., i. 72 Cook, John, i. 96-98 Cookworthy, John, i. 375 Coolecan, River (Culiacan), i. 279 <m note^ Coppinger, H., i. 375-376, 386, 39f 469, 491 ; ii. 81, 82, 87 Coquibaco, Cape, ii. 314-315 Coquimbo, i. 122, 164, 210 Coretaga, i. 59 note ■ Cormorants, ii. 171 Corn Island, i. 62 and note^-t^ Coromandel coast, i. 167, 420, 49 492, 588-589 ; ii. 268-269 Coronada, i. 271 Corpus Sant (corposant), i. 410 «) note^ Correso, ii. 167 610 INDEX Corrientes, Cape (MexicoX i* 292-500 Corrientes, Cape (PeniX i* I95) 261, 271-272, 275» 290 ; "• I33» I35» 24S Corrisao Island, iL 314 Corrosoes (Curassow), i. 69 and noie^ Coninna, i. 5 1 1 note Costa Rica, i. 89 Cotton plants, i. 186-187 ; ii. 52-53, 363.445 Counter currents, ii. 317-318 Covant, Capt. John, ii. 210; quoted^ ii. 274-278 Coventry, Mr., ii. 75, 78, 79, 80, 81, 88, 89,91,98 Cowley, A., i. 98 noU^; cited, i. 134 nctiy 135 note^ ijf> notes, 137 note; quoted, i. 168 note^ Coxon,Capt., i. 57 and note, 58,68, 71, 72, 73 note, 199, 215, 246 and note^ Cozumel Island, ii. 115 and note *, 132 Crabcatchers, ii. 170 Crabs, i. 70 and note ^ ; ii. 136 Craw-fish, terrestrial, i. 460 and note ^ Crawfot, T^ i. 270 note Crce, Mr., i. 253 Crockadore^ the, i. 447 Crocodile, ii. 175-176 Crows, chattering, ii. 394 Cruxes, Venta de, i. 205 and note* Cuban Isles, i. 64, 128-129, 206, 246 ; ii. 132» >33» 134-135*260 Culverin, ii. 4 and note* Cunnimere, i. 492 and note Curaccos coast, ii. 260-261 Curlews, ii. 170 Currecoos, ii. 396 Currents — Definition of, iL 306, 314 Trade winds, influenced by, ii. 314, 316 Curreso birds, ii. 395 Curtana, The, i. 491 ; ii* 35 Custard apple, ii. 370 and note Cuyo, Monte de, ii. 116 and note* - 117 Cygnet, The, i. 490» 494 D ALTOS, Mr., ii. 77, 78, 98 Damar tree, i. 389 and note Daniarel, John, i. 469 Dampier, Judith, i. 417 and note* Dauicing women, i. 3471 365 61 Danes, colony of, i. 490 Darien Isthmus — Connection under, for N. and S. Seas, supposed, ii. 309 Indians o^ l 71 and note* -72, 201- 204 Journey across, from North to South Seas, i. 43-55, 212, 217 Land breezes off, iL 254 mentioned, i. 180 ; iL 200 Davila, Pedrarias, L 198 note* Davis Bay, L 287 Davis, Capt. Edward, i. 97 and note \ >35. 154, 158, 192, 193. 212-213, 220, 225, 227, 228, 231, 234-235, 238-239, 243 and note, 357 Cruise with Captain Swan, i. 161- 243 Expedition to Amapalla Islands, i. 144. 146, 149-152 Deer, L 329 Deer, Bay of, L 353-354 Defence, The, i. 502, 504 ; ii. 99 Dellagoa, River of, ii. 321 Desartes Island, i. 117 and note*, 121 and note • Desmarais, Captain, i, 217 note* D'Estre, Count, i. 77 and no/e^i Diabolo, Mount, iL 113-114 Diamond Point, iL 49, 79-80 Diamond, The, i. 495 Dildoe bushes, i. 109 and note ^ 127 Dilly, River, iL 80,81 Dinding, Pulo, ii. 93-98 Doleman, i. 190-.91 Domea River, i. 565 and note, 568, 571, J73 Domea village, i. 566-567 Dorothy, The, ii. 71, 72 Dos Boccas, River, iL 213-214 Dragon-trees, i. 452 and notes Drake, Sir Francis, i. 53 note*, 69 and note*, 72 note'^, 73 notes* and*, 88 note *, 1 56, 157 and note, 200 and note >, 205 note ',251 and note, 293 and note \ 466 and note * Drink made from bonanos, i. 325 From plantains, i. 323 Driscal, Mr. D., i. 486-487; ii. 67, 71 Dropsy, treatment of, i. 271, 290 Du Quesne, cited, i. 505 and note * ; ii. 53 and note ' Ducks, ii. 170, 396 Dulce, Gulf of, L 235 Durians, fruit, i. 328 and note * I INDEX Dutch- Cape of Good Hope, settlement at, i- 5>3i 515-516, 520-521 Hatred of, in the East and West Indies, i. 326 and note^ 338-339, 35 5» 363. 446 ; ii. 46 Sea fight with the French, i, 505- 506 Trade— Achin gold mines, at, ii. 62 Cachao, i. 597 and note Caraccos coast, on, i. 93 Champa, with, i. 397 Cochinchina, in, i. 566-567 Dinding, Pulo, at, ii. 93-98 Domea, at, i. 566 Java, with, ii. 46 Jihore, with, i. 560 ; ii. 87 Malacca, with, ii. 83-85, 87-88 Mindanao, with, i. 340 Slave Trade, i. 446 Spice Islands, with, i. 325-326, 355 West Indies, in, i. 76-79 Wars of, ii. 109 andnoie^ Dyes, i. 244-248, 611 Early voyages of Dampier, ii. 108- 114 Earning, Captain, ii. 108 East by south trade winds, ii. 232 East Coker, ii. 52 andnote^y 109 East Indies — Achar made in, i. 389-390 Boats of, i. 311 and note Cattle of, i. 385 Cotton trees in, i. 187 Distance from America, i. 300 Englishmen, value set on, in, ii. 42 Fruits of, i. 241, 304-306, 307, 324» 327, 390 ; ii- 390 Language of trade in, i. 392 Pearl Oysters of, i. 194 Princes of, i. 445 Time reckoning as compared with that of Europe, i. 378 Voyages to, i. 293-300; ii. 250 Winds, tides, and storms of, ii. 202, 231, 243, 246-250, 268-269, 279, 290-293, 300, 311 Women and children in, i. 393, 588 East India Company : Achin factory, i. 486 ; Bencouli factory, i. 496, 501 ; Dutch, see Dutch trade; Fort St. George factory, ii. ^^- 78 ; free merchants and, i. 326 ; Mindanayan settlement proposed, i. 360 ; Siamese war, ii. 39 ; St Hellena seized, L 524-525 East Indian Ocean — Trade winds in, ii. 230, 237-238 Winds near or under the line in, ii. 234 East-north-east trade wind, ii. 231, 232 East-south-east trade wind, ii. 231, 232 Easter Island, i. 357 note Eaton, Captain, i. 109, iii andnote^- 112, 120, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 137, I43> 146, 154, 15^ 158, 161, 162, 168 and noteSy 169-170, 181, 210-21 1 ; ii. 238 Egg birds, i. 84; ii. 128 Elephant Mountain, i. 565, 571 Elephanta storm, ii. 292 English seamen, prodigality of^ i. 36S- 369 Equator, crossing of, ii. 233-237, 273- .275 Equinoctial degree, number of miles to, i. 300, 301 Escondedo, Port, ii. 150 Estapa, i. 265 and note ' ; ii. 207 Exquemeling, cited ^ i« 153 note^ Falcon, Constant, ii. 38, 39, 40, 77 Fever outbreak at Rea Lejo, i. 243 and note Fire, Indian method of getting, 145$ Fisgig, i. 39 and note * Fisher, Lieutenant George, L 320 note^; ii. 595 Fishers Island, i. 564 Fishing, Tonquinese methods of, i. 580-581 Fishing-hawks, ii. 171 Fishook, Captain, i. 93 note* ; ii. 114 Fitz-Gerald, John, i. 386-387 Flamingoes, i. 99-100 Flemming, Mr., ii. 144 Floods in Torrid Zone, i. 584-585 Florida, Gulf of, i. 206 ; ii. 249 Fogo(Fuego), Island of, loi andnoti\ 105 Formosa, i. 416 Fort St. George, i. 390, 394, 489, 49^1 493» 494i 504-506; ii. 99-ioa 264 Freke, Captain, i. 494 612 INDEX French — English war with, i. 504-505 Overland passage to South Seas attempted by, i. 203, 212 Querisao, attempts to capture, i. 77- 78 Fresh water, taking up, at sea, ii. 80, 81 Fruit bats, i. ^30 note ' Fustick tree, li. 382 and note Gagk, Mr., cited^ i. 235 fiote^ 237 ; ii. 211; quoted, i. 237 note Galingame, i. bio and note^ Gallapagos Isles, i. 126-129, 132-136, 220, 357 ; ii. 238, 310-31 1, 320 Gallera Island, i. 195 Gallio Island, i. 34 and note* ^ 36, 185, 190-191 Gaily- wasps, ii. 165 Gaming, prevalence of, among Eastern nations, i. 592 Gar-fish, ii. 172 and note Garachina, Point, i. 36 and note ^, 195 and note ^, 197, 213, 214, 218, 219 Gartos, Rio de la, ii. 11 7-1 19, 125 Gayney, G., i. 48 George^ Tke^ ii. 77 Giblx>nt, Mr., 49^ Gibbs, Captain, ii. 225 Gtlolo Island, L 420, 438 Goa, il 85, 293 Goa arack, i. 304 Goat Island, i. 417, 420 Goats, i. 1 1 5 Goddard, Mr, 437, 502 Gold, i. 175 and note, 199, 215, 216, 231, 280, 333, 355, 356, 360, 385, 496-497* 61 1, 638 ; ii. 55, 60-63 Gold coast, ii. 272-273 Golden Island, i. 29 andnote^^ 53 Golden Mount, ii. 50, 60 Gongo, iu 12 and note Goodlud, Admiral, i. 73 note ', 317-318, 3SS. 3^ Gopson, Mr., i. y> and note (sorgonia. Isles of, i. 30 and note* , 35, "93-194; "• y>2 (infton Isle, i. 417, 420, 421, 423, 429 Grape-tree, i. 390 <//r</ii<'/^/ ii. 151 and note*-i$2 Gratia dc Dios, Cape, i. 39 ; ii. 243, 3»7. 3»8 Greenhill, Mr., letters of, quoted^ ii. 270-274 Gret, John, i. 202-204 Groin, i. 51 1 and note Gronet, Capt. Francois (Grogniet), i. 153 note\ 180, 212 andnote^, 216, 225, 227, 228, 235 Gualaba, i. 105 Guam (Guahan) — Description of, and of visit to, i. 261 and note \ 302-303, 307-314, 378 ; ii. 3" Voyage to, with table of each day's run, i. 292-302 Guanchaquo, i. 124, 125, 126 Guano, the (Igiiana), i. 87 and note\ 128, 278 ; ii. 425-426 Guasickwalp, River, ii. 216 and note ^ Guatamala, i. 248-249 Guatimala, i. 244-248, 419 Guatulco, i. 250-251, 256 Guava fruit, i. 241, 575, 576 Guaver trees, ii. 204 Guaxaca, ii. 248 Guiaquil, i. 34 and note ^ 90 and note *, 122, 174-175, 176-180 Bay of, 1. 162, 170, 176, 233 River of, i. 89 ; ii. 308-309 Guinea coast — Anchorage on, i. 419 Adventure off, i. 442-443 Climate of, ii. 235, 298-299 Current of, ii. 319 Customs of, i. 393, 518; ii. 16-17 Fruit of, i. 324 Harmatans on, ii. 270-271 Land breezes on, ii. 261 Outward and homeward bound vessels from, crossing the equator by, ii. 235-236 Trade winds on coasts of, ii. 231, 239-241 West Indies, course to, ii. 244, 273 274 Guinea-hens, ii. 364 and note Guinea worms, ii. 187 and note^i%% Guitteba tree, ii. 388 Hacha, Rio de la, ii. 73-74, 76, 159, Hall, Capt., ii. i83<iS6 Mr. Robert, i. 431, 469, 473-48o, 488, 558; ii. 48 Hally, Capt., ii. 350 Halover, the, ii. 214 Halpo, ii. 207, 214 Hamago, ii. 222 613 INDEX Hamilton, Alex., cited^ i. 597 note; quoted^ ii. 103 note Hammond, Capt, ii. 416 Harmatans, ii. 270-271 Harris, Captain, i. 135, 161 and note\ 180, 195, 198, 215, 218, 219, 222, 225, 228, 229, 231, 234, 242-243 Harthop, Mr., i. 374i 37^, 43^ Havana, i. 205-206 Hawkins, John, i. 73 note^ ; quoted, i. 219 note^y 471 notes^ and* Hean, i. 569-570 ; ii. 25-30 Heath, Capt., i. 502, 504-510, 522, 523 Hecatee, i. 128 and note* He-ho, River, i. 564 note * Hellier, Colonel, ii. 52 and note^y 109 Heming, Captain, ii. 1 13-1 14 andnote^ Herons, ii. 170 Hewet, Captain, ii. 207 and note ^y 213 High and low lands, rain in, ii. 302- 303 High and low coast lands, depth of sea in relation to, i. 417-420 Hilanoones, the, i. 333 Hina Hill, ii. 146-147 Hippopotami (sea-horses), African and American, ii. 200-203 Hispaniola, i. 61, 213, 246; ii. 112 Hoc Shu, i. 414 and note^4iS Hodmadods, see Hottentots Hog Island, i. 462 and note ^462 Hog plumb-trees, i. 148 Hogs, i. 189,329; ii. 55, 195 Honduras, Bay of, i. 246 and note-247i 405, 419 ; ii. 258, 299 Hooker, Mr. John, ii. 142 Hottentots, i. 453, 517-522 ; ii. 275 Howel, Captain, i. 495, 496 ; ii. 36, 39, 100 Hudsel, Captain, ii. 114 Hudson's Bay, i. 287 Hullock, John, ii. 1 20-1 21 Humming-bird, ii. 166 Hurricanes, ii. 287-290 Idolaters, i. 393-394 Iguanas, i. 329 and note • India, ii. 248, 320 Indians, settlements of, i. 43-54, 62- 64, 68-69, 74-75, 113, 1 19-120, 139-143, U5- 148-153, 158, 159- 161, 165, 167, 172-173, 188-189, 190-191, 201-204, 252-253, 275, 276 and note^y 281, 286, 308-312, 320 andnote\ 323, 385-386, 421- 6 427, 444-447, 455, 464-467, 471- 472, 491, 498, 518, 519; iL iio- 112, 153, 191-192, 208-211,214 Indian Sea — Calculations as to breadth of, 300 Winds near or under the line in, iL 234 Indico, i. 244-246 Indrapore, i. 495 and note* Ingwa fruit, ii. 392 and note* Jaccals, i. 256 and note Jack fruit, i. 328 and note '-329 Jamaica — Animals o( i. 64, 393 ; ii. 194-195 Capture of, by Spain, i. 63 note Chma root of, i. 405 Dyes made in, i. 245 Fruit of, i. 223, 224, 241, 307 Trees of, i. 60, 89-90, 143, 264, Voyages to, ii. 109-110, 123-142 Winds and storms of^ ii. 253-256, 259, 264, 284-285 Japan, i. 32-33, 609 Java, i. 420 ; ii. 65 JefTeries, L., i. 443 Jenette, ii. 395 Jennipah fruit, ii. 391 Jeoly, Prince (The Painted Prince), i. 355,494-5«>» 5^2, 511,528; ii.ioo Jew-fish, i. 265 and note ' Jihore, Kingdom of, i. 559-560; ii. 87 Johanna Island, i. 494, 509 Johnson, Captain, ii. 40-47, 114 Jonca, Passange, i. 484-485 ; ii. 48, 60, 61 Jonks, Chinese, i. 407-408 Josiahy They i. 522, 523, 528 Juan Fernandez, i. 11 2-1 19, 124 Jucatan, ii. 116, 119, 126, 132, 159, 256, 318 Kalin Susu, i. 444 note Kent, Capt., ii. 109, 112 Keyhooca, ii. 216, 217 Keys Island (of Cuba), i. 132, 133 Kings Islands, see Pearl Islands Knight, Captain, i. 217 and note* y 227 233-235, 238, 242-243, 494 Knox, Captain, i. 306 and note^ 49 and ftote * La Guaire, i. 92-93 La Sound, Captain, i. 200 and note^ 203, 225 H INDEX La Sounds Key, i. 53 ami tu>le\ 54. J7.70 La Vacbc, lile of, i. 72 and mote^ La VeU, Cape. ii. 243. 144. 31 S> 3" 7 \a Vera Cnu, i. 160, 276, j<)i and mfflr^; ii. 314. 215, JI9-321 L»ck and Ucquered work, i 574-577. L«cy. CapuJD, L 561, 566 ; W. 35, 39, 40,47 LAdrone Islands, i. 261, 293. 303, 308, 3'i L«gtma,Cityof. ii. 353-357 Lance-wDod, l 143 and nolt' LaKCTDU, ii. 3!0 Land brceiCM— Coldness of. ii. 264 CeaeraJ. ii. 153 et sty. Iklands, among, ii. 2A0 Lagtme*, in, ii. 2^8^259 Level caa«U, on, ti. 160-261 Feraliar to some coasts, ii. 265-273 Short voyages, for, ii. 149 Sijnts of. ii- 263-364 StnwKest and &inie«, where met with, ii. 257-260 Laos, Kingdctn of, i. J71 and note Ljirelia, i. 196, 220^ 331 and nott\ «7. 131 Leotpa, River, 1. 243 Lvoo, City oU i- Jii lutd nolt >, 335, 237-244 Leopards, li. 396 LcfmMy. L ^A, 341 and noU ' Libbytrees, i. yt) and mcU*-i2o Lichca, i. 57 ( aKdnoU*, 576 Ligunn, i. 561 and m<U ' Lina. t. 11:, 123, 125, t88, 191, 199- 300, 261 Lima. Viceroy of, i. 123, 125, 204 Limes, i. 307, j;6 Lmchanchee, li- 11 9 IJmaebtXetL, fwa/td, i. tlo nott' Lioas, ii. 16} LinlrtoB. Sir Fdwaid, ii. 416 Luardsiii. 152 LaafiEU. ii 37i-i77 Lobos Island. L 113-116, 162, 169, tSi, 211, 111 Lobuen, I 109 Locum*, i. 4»4. S7*-i79 Loncthcad Key, ii. 1 1 j Loffoe, Cape, ii. 243 Lofship, wooden, i. yn an//, 310 mid Logwood- cutlers of Campeachy Ban ii. 132-123, i43-'44. 146. 149-15*^" 153-154, 155-157. 178^/ «?., 334- 225 Logwood trees, ii. 115, 158-159 Long, CapL, ii. 131-133 _ Luconia Island, i. 316-317, 384-38^ 434 Ludfbrd, Mr., 11. 20-21 Lynch, Sir Thamaa, ii. 195, 336 Macao, i. 413 Macasser Town, i. 43S, 446 Mackril, Spanish, ii. 173 Madagascar, i. 118, 493-494 Magellan (Fernando Magethaens), 316 and noU^yj Magellan, Streights of, i. 117 Maguella, valley of, i, 267 Maho tree, i. 68 Mahomcdans, i. 344-360, 485 Mail, drinks made from, ii. 209 Malabar coast, i. 588-589 : ii. 269, 292 Malabrigo, i. 32t, 222 Malacca, ii. 40, 47, 83-86, 88-89, 558 Malacca, Streights of, i. 558; ii. 39,313 Malayan language, i. 392 Malayans, i. 398-399. 4^7 : "■ 43-44. 56, 87-88, 97. 100-101. loa Maldlve Islands, i. 306 Malmesy wine, ii- 355 Mammee trees, i. 127. Z12 and net*' Mammce-sappoia's, star apples, i. and note*, 223-224 Mammet trees, i. 208 and note* Manatee (sea cow) 64-67. 73. 33© 1 t73. wj Manchaneet trees, i. 70 and note • Mandarins of Tonqiiin, >i. 14-18 Manifostan fruit, ii. 53 Maogera Island, i. 147, 149, 152 Mango-Achar, i. 389, 390 .Manifocs, i. 389-390, 573 and naft^i ii. 390 Mangrove trees, i. 84 ami not*, Bj, 336-137; ii- 191,3*8 Manila, i. 360-262 and motes, 175 and nolt, 117, 33S is<»rf noU, 383-384> 386 ; li. 220 Mania, Island of, i. 159-161 Maracaybo. L sot Margama, Islandof, i. 85, 86, S;, 194. \ i'i INDEX Maria's Islands, i. 288-290 Marquiz, Port, i. 263 and note * Martinico, i. 78 Martin Lopez, Port of, i. 149 Maslin, ii. 52 andnote^ Massaclan, i. 280 Maticjue, Gulf of, i. 244, 246 Mauntius, i. 128 andnote^ Maxentelbo, i. 282 Mayo, Island of, i. 103-105 ; ii. 357- ' ^ 360, 362-367 Meangis Islands, i. 352, 355, 495 and note^y 496-498, 502 Melory, tree, i. 465 and note, 466-467 Men-of-War birds, i. 79-80, 83 ; ii. 128-129 Mendibees, ii. 393 Mentaweis Islands, i. 462 andnote^ Merga, ii. 76 Mencasah fruit, ii. 392 andnote^ Merida, ii. 119 Meridians, calculation of, i. 379 and note^ Mestisos, i. 207 Metcalf, Captain, i. 495 Mexico — Commerce of, i. 291 Land route from Panama to, i. 231 Mines of, i. 283-284, 286-287 Navigation of coast of, ii. 239, 240- 241, 250 .,,J Swan's (Captain) journey to, i. 242 et seg, • Winds and storms of, ii. 258, 261- 262, 268, 280-284 otherwise mentioned, i. 137-138, 197, 200, 248 ; ii. 219 Mims (Myngs), Sir Christopher, ii. 147 and note ^-i^^ Minchin, Captain, i. 172 ; ii. 78, 79, 9h 93» 98 Mindanao — Circumcision Day in, i. 345-349 Coasting voyage round, i. 352, 377, 379-381 Description of, i. 318-331 English settlement desired bypeople of, i. 354-358 People of, i. 332-350, 354-355. 359, 361, 363, 370, 371, 376, 395 ««^ note ^Werofjh^S^andnote ',362,366-367 Sultan of, i. 336 and note, 341-348, 359-362 Trade route to, i. 356-357 Mindanao^ The, i. 494 Mindora Island, i. 383-384 Streights of, i. 385 Miniota, ii. 365 Mishlaw, i. 323 Mogul, the, English seamen in service of, i. 491, 492-493 Monday, Captain, i. 525 and note Money and money changers, ii. 59-^ 67-68 Monkeys, ii. 161-162 Monmouth Island, i. 417, 420, 421, 423,429 Monomatapa, i. 453 Monsoons, i. 476 and note; ii. 246-2$o Monsoons (storms), ii. 291-292 Monte-Christo, i. 160 Moody, Mr., i. 355, 437, 495, 496, 499, 500 ; ii. 100 Moors, i. 491, 492 ; ii. 72-73 More, Mr. Henry, i. 217-218, 359, 377 note, 381 Morgan, Mr., i. 490, 491, 493 Morgan, Sir Henry, i. 59 note\ 73 note^, 198 andnote^ ; iL 112, 154 Moro de Porco^ i. 221 and note \ 231 Morrice, Price, ii. 186 Morton, R., i. 2 10-2 11 Moskito Indians, i. 33, 39-42 and notes, 65^68, 1 1 2-1 14 Mosquito country^ i. 42 note Mountain cow (tapirX ii. 199 c^ note-201 Muckishaw, fruit, ii. 392 and note ' Muddiford, Sir Thomas, i. 245 ; ii. 1 12 Mugeres Island, ii. 115 and note* Mulattoes, i. 58 and note, 264-266 Mulberry trees, i. 577 Mum, i. 414 and note ^ Munden, R., 525 note Mungaroo fruit, ii. 392 and note * Musl^ i. 61 1 Musteran-de-ova fruit, ii. 392 and note^-y^l Mustesoes (mestisos),!. ^Zandnote,iffl NarborOUGH, Sir John, i. 1 21-122 and note, 262 Nassaw Island, i. 462 Nata, i. 196, 221 and note \ 231 Natal, account of, ii. 321-324 Necklin, John, ii. 104 Negroes, ii. 1 80-181, 188, 438-440 Nellegree, The,\\, 71, 72, 75 Nelly, Mr., i. 396, 436 616 INDEX Nequebars, see Nicobar Nevil, Captain, ii. 206 midnoie^ New Holland- Description of, i. 64, 452-457 ; iL 312-313 Voyages to, i. 450-452 ; ii. 349^/ seq, Newfoundland, ii. 108, 224, 367 A'ewport^ The, il 358 Ngeam, Province of, i. 573, 574 ; ii. 6 Nicaragua, i. 39, 63, 140, 153 note*\ ii. 159 Nicobar Island, i. loi and note ^^ 463- 467, 468-470, 478 ; ii. 26 Nicoya, i. 139-140, 235 Nigrill, ii. 141 Nile, i, 585 Noddy biids, i. 83 and note ^ ; ii. 437 Nombre de Dios, i. 29 note\ 88 and note* North- East Passage, method to dis- cover, i. 288 North-easterly wind from England, ii. 231 North Seas, overland from Pacific to, i. 153 North- West Passage, method to dis- cover, i. 287-288 Norths, the, ii. 157-158, 280-284 Norwood, Mr., i. 301 and note Nuke-mum, i. 579-580 Nun-buoy, ii. 441 Nurse bird, ii. 129 Nutmeg trees, i. 325, 390 Oaks, tropical, ii. 155 Oakum, i. 306 Oarrha, i. 270 Obi, Pulo, i. 396 note Old Callabar, ii. 241 Oleta, River, i. 282 and note^ Oliver, John, i. 470-493 Omba Island, i. 448 and note* One- Bush- Key, ii. 122-123, 153 and note\ 189 Opium trade, ii. 88-89 Orange Island, i. 417, 423 Oranges, i. 575 and note ^^ 576 ; ii. 390 Oratavia, ii. 35t« 355 Orchilla, Islands of, i. 83 and note* Oro, Pulo, I 560 Osthdges, i. 514 ; ii. 396 Otee fruit, ii. w and note ^ Otoque Islancf, i. 220 and note * Otta, i. 244 and note*, 245-247 Outriggers used by Indian boat- builders, i. ^10 and note S 31 1 note * Oxenham, John, i. 53 note*, 193 note, 200 and note 1 Oxford, The, i. 72 and note* Oysters, i. 197 PacH£C.\ Island. L 195 and note*, 198, 216, 219, 22^, 226 Pacifick Ocean, 1. 120- 121 Pain, Capt., i. 57, 68, 81 and note-^2 Paita, ii. 258 Palimbam, i. 398 and note 1 Pallacat (PulicatX i* 505 and note*-, ii. 292 Palm-berries (dendee), ii. 393 ami note^ Palm-tree, spreading, i. 263-264 Palm-wine, i. 264 Palma- Maria trees, i. 232 Palmas, Cape, ii. 242 Palmas, River, ii. 214 Palmeto tree, i. 173 Panama, i. 57, 65, 125, 192 and note- 193, 196, 198 a//// note*, 199-200, 206. 220, 222, 225, 331, 419 ; ii. 243, 244, 2j8, 299-300 Panama, President of, 1. 125, 139, 159, 16a- 16 1, 207 note^ Panay Island, L 383 and note ^ Pangasanam, i. 384 and note * Panuk, river and city, ii. 221 Papah fruit, ii. 370-371 Parricootas, ii. 172 Parrots, ii. 223 Parselorc, Pulo, ii. 82-83, 92 Passao, Cape, i. 34 and note"^, 184 ; ii. 257 Patagonia, i. 113, 357 Patereroes, i. 61 and note* Payta, i. 16J-164, 167, 234 Pearl fishenes, ii. 22, 74, 194, 279 Pearl Islands, i. 62 and note*, 192 and note, 195-198, 216-217, 222, 225, 565-566 Peccary (wild hog), i. 41 and note ^ Pedro, Point, iu 256 Pegu. i. 389, 393» 56} ; ii. 75*77 Pelicans, ii. 170-171 Penguin fruit, i. 123-124, 278 Peniare Isle (Pantar), i. 448 and note*- 449 Pepper, i. 559, 562 ; ii. 40, 44-46, 55» 87, 102-103, 21B and note ^ Peralta, Capuin, ii. 154 and note* 6.7 INDEX Perica (Perico), i. 205 and note 1, 207 and note ^^ 209-210, 216, 219 Pcrnambuc, ii. yj^yil Perpetuana, ii. 206 and note * Persia, Gulph of, ii. 246, 269-270 Peru — Climate of, i. 188, 586 ; ii. 295-296 Navigation of coast of, i. 418 ; ii. 249-250, 320 Trade between Acapuico and, i. 261 Winds off coast of, ii. 239-241, 257, 261-262 otherwise mentioned, i. 98, 118, 121-122, 163-168, 231 Petango fruit, ii. 392 and note • Petaplan Hill, i. 264 and note Petit Guavos, i. 59 and note^^ 61, 97, 212-213 Petrels, ii. 408, 409 Petumbo fruit, ii. 392 and note ' Peuns, i. 491-492 Philippine Islands, i. 206 and note* ^ 260 et seq,^ 291, 293 and note\ ^ 315-318, 356-357,383 Physick-nuts, ii. 393 and note • Picard, Captain, i. 217 Pinas, Don Diego de, i. 191, 198 Pinas, Port, i. 218 and note *-2ig Pine, wild, ii. 158 Pines, Island of, i. 128 ; ii. 133, 134- 139, 301-302 Pinose, ii. 363 Pintado-bird, ii. 408, 419 Piscadores Islands, i. 412-415 Pisco, i. 217 and note ^ Piura, i. 167-168 Plantain-fibre-cloth, i. 324 and note 1, 335 Plantain tree and fruit, i. 41 andnote^^ 52,92,321-324 Plants, account of, ii. 445-448 Plata, Island of, i. 156-157, 181-182, 311,401-402 Pongassinay, i. 384 and note ' Ponticheri, i. 505 and note *, 506 Pontique, Point, i. 276 and note^-2'TJ Ponto, Don Pedro de, ii. 356-357 Pool, Capt., i. 490, 566, 609, 610 ; ii. 35, 38 Porpusses (Porpoises) oyl of, i. 561 Port Royal Harbour and Island, i. 131, 1 32 ; ii. 1 14, 1 50 and notes-i^ i Portabell (Porto Bello), i. 57, 60, 75, 192, 199-200, 204-205, 211 Porto Nova, i. 386 and note 61 Porto Rico Islands, i. 246 Portuguese, I 386, 413, 512, 524 ; ii 84-86 Posole, ii. 145, 209 Potatoes, i. 41 and note ^ Pracel, shoals of, i. 387 and note*-ii&y 401, 561, 563 Praya, ii. 367 Prickle-pear, i. 241 Prince George's Island, i. 289 Princess Ann, The, iL 99 Privateers' method of securing in- formation, i. 58-59 Proes (Indian boats), i. 308-311, 342- 343 Prout, Captain, ii. 189, 190 Providence, Isle of (Santa Katalina), i. 59 and note ^, 63 ; ii. 1 59 Puebla Nova, i. 233 andnote^ Pulo-Land, for names beginning wHk Putoy see second part o/name: flJ Pulo Condore^ see Condore Pumple-musses, ii. 390 Pumple-nose fruit, ii. 52 and note ^-^^ Pumps, Spanish, ii. 435 Puna Island, i. 172-174, 197 Punta Arena, i. 172 Punta de Guaira (La GuayraX i* 20; and note * Purchas, quoted^ ii. 69 note^ 129 note QUAMS, i. 69 and note * ; ii. 167 Queen's Peak, ii. 50 note Querisao, i. 76 and note ^ Quibo, Islands of (Cobaya) i. 36, 18$ 231, 232, 233,235 Quicaro Island, i. 232, 235 Quinam city, i. 562 Quito, i. 175-176 Raccoons, ii. 425 and note, 443 am note* Rack, i. 601 Rackan, i. 610 and note ^ RcUnboWy The, i. 490, 566 ; ii. 35 Rains, influence of, on harvests of th Torrid Zone, ii. 587-589 Raja Laut — Entertainment of English by, 354-366, 368-372 otherwise mentioned, 343-344, 36I 372-373, 435> 436-437, 498 Rancheries, the, i. 74 and note^ 19 232, 235 Rattlesnakes, ii. 397 8 ^C4pisin.ii. 143 ^ a. 173 ■ 1361 137. '44-146, 335- M. 3H . uin, royafes with, L 377- ). 401-46* 490-491, 493, 494 ohn (of Brislol), 1. 101, 374 k, Capuin, i. 441 1,1.493.494: 11.245-346 Dd, Mexican, 1. Mpmtd lUiU*, tnisslonary eflbrU, iu 36- uincK, of, i. 603-60J ut Sucking lishes 396-397, 406. 577. 587-S»8 : toti- 371-371. 414 ""'^'w/ir' , Mr., ii. 91, 93, 95, 96, 93 . Mi., i, J86 ; eiltd, I. 140 ', 193 HoU^ quoUd, i, 90 not* *, I noU, 20B n6l* * inde. i. 73 and naU'-Ji, 7s oT ibe *». ii. 374 Capuin, ii. 21^ ami it^tt, 317 ■ ' ,i.8»-8c.89.94.9! . 1 16 UMlf MO// \ 118 CapiaiRL, i. 133 I; Tit, ii. 349 and not* kpuin, t. 330 and nol4*, 335, Captain, ifuoUd, ii. aoi-soj. 33" SiTtr, i. j64, S69. STOi S73 Cape 11. 314-316,317 Pnlo^ii. ji lible, L 38ft S74 ; ii- S4 river and town of, i. 3S0 and '-a«l ^ptain, t. S7. ai7 iroA-', 334 wy Uhod. ii, 434-43i John, ii. 331 ;, Cape, ii. 336, 316, 376 L, Itkof, I. 171 !rM.i«.3i>-3S3 , *• Ficc,i. 410 HIM MO/'* St. Francisco, Cape, i. 35 and note 36, ISS-156, 184, 185.331 St. George, Fort, \. 313, 317 St. Hellena,!. 158, 159, 161, 181, 533- S38 St Jago Island, i. I04-105 ; ii. 109, Wiandnols*, pl-^l^ Si. jago, River of, i, 185-191, 182 and note\ 384 andnnW St. John d'UUoa, i. 360 ; ii. 219 St John's Island (near Hong-Kong), i. 401 and ntitt-ifiy, 405-407 St. John's Island (Philippine Islands), i. 316, 31B, 38s, 434 St Julian, Port, i. 197 and note St Lawrence, Cape, ii. 357 St Lawrence Isle, 1. 138 St Lorcnio, Cape.i. 38, 157, 160,313- 314 St. Lucas, Cape, i. 361 and note*, 38£s 2B9 Santa Lucia Island, i. 473 : ii. 1 10 Santa Mana, i. 44, t8o, 195, 315 and nMei-3t6 Sanla Maria, River, i. 54,214-115,317, 218, 333 Si. Martha, i. 73 and note >, 30{ St Martin's Land, ii. 121 and nott\ 217 St Michael, i. 36 and neti ' St Michael, Gulf nf, i. 313-316; ii. 308-310 St Michael'i Mount (Central America), i. 146, 147, U^ St Nicholas Island,]. [01-103, i^S S|. Paul's Island, i. 196, 22; Santa Pecaquc, i. 283, 284 St Peter and St. Paul. River, ii. 191. 198 and nole-\tf), 203 St Thomas tsbnd, i. 76 am,i not** St Vincent, ii. no Salinas, ii. 144-146 Sail Island, i. 99-102 Sallagua. i. 261 and n^i*, 169 and 367 : kemintc tcaton, 146 »4S- Sall-Tortuga, Island of. t. 8j-S6; iu 366 Samshu, 1. 414 «Mi«<*IV'-4iS SamboUoes Islands, i S}. A 6»-7i. 201-104 i ■)■ 160. 2A0 SatnbiloDg, Pulo, ii. 93-93 619 INDEX Sambo, River, i. 214 and note\ 218, 219 Sapadilloes, i. 70, 222 and note' y 223 Saphire^ The^ i. 561 ; ii. 35 Sapiera trees, ii. 387-388 Sappan wood, i. 61 1 Sarsaparilla, i. 175 Sassafras, ii. 394 and note ^ Savannahs, i. 114-115, 138 Sawkins, Capt., i. 46, 199, 208 note^^ 209 note^^ 233 andnote^ Scorpions, i. 329 Scucnaderoes, i. 216 Scuda Island, i. 69 and note ^ Sea breezes — Distinction between trade winds and, ii. 251 Rising of, ii. 252 Temperature of, ii. 264 Sea, depth of, near high or low lands, i. 417-420 Sea-horse (African hippopotamus), ii. 200-203 Sea-lion, i. 118 and note, 526 Sea reckonings and variations, ii. 410-415 Sea-snakes, ii. 432 Seal oil, ii. 1 30-1 31 Seal skin bladders, ii. 262 Seals, i. 11 6- 117, 123, 278, 289-290, 515; ii. 129, 130-131 Seasons of Torrid Zone on N. and S. of the Equator, ii. 294-295 Sebo Island, 1. 381 Segovia, i. 153 and note ^ Selam, ii. 118 Serangani Islands, i. 352 note ^ Series, Captain, ii. 154 and note Serles^s Key, ii. 154 Sharks, i. 107, 136; ii. 426-427 Sharks' Bay, ii. 423 and note-42g Sharp, Captain, 140 and note\ 153, 199, 200, 209 note ', 2 10, 2 1 5, 233 ; ii. 155 and note Sheba, Queen of, ii. 69 Sherboro, i. 106 and note ^ Ship worms, i. 366 and note-^6y Shipwrecked men, treatment of, in Cochinchina and Pegu, i. 562-563 Shrimps, ii. 222 Siam, ii. 26, 36-39, 77-7Z, 248, 389, 393i 397, 419 Sibbel de Wards Islands, i. 108 and note'^-\o() Sierra- Leone, ii. 160 Sierra Nevada, i. 73 note^ Silk, i. 574, 577, 608 Silk cotton plant, ii. 362-363, 388-390 Sillabar, i. 398 andnote^ ; ii. 100 Silver mines .of Mexico, i. 283-284 Silvester trees, i. 248 Simalu (Hog Island), i. 462 andnoU^ 463 Sincapore, Streights of, i. 559; il 40 Sisal, ii. 119 and note, 121 Sixteen-Mile Walk, Jamaica, ii. 112- 113 Skinner, Captain, ii. 189, 190 Sloane, Sir Hans, quoted, iL 112 notes • and ^ Sloth, the, ii. 162-163 Smith, Mr., i. 239-240, 354, 436 Snake-root, ii. 394 and note * Snakes, i. 231 note; ii. 164, 397-398,433 Snappers, i. 116 and note, 118 Snooks fish, i. 259 and note ^ Sologues, i. 333, 380 Song-Ka, River, i. 564 note^ Sougoud Boyan Bay, i. 352 and note^- 354 Sour-sop, ii. 390 and note ' South Keys, ii. 139-140 South Seas — Breadth of, reckoning as to, i. 300 Navigation in, ii. 249-250 Overland passage of Darien Isthmu to, i. 201-204 Pearl oysters in, i. 194 Trade winds in, ii. 230, 231, 237-2^ Voyage in, i. iii et seg. Winds near and under the line ii ii. 234 South-west monsoon, ii. 330 and note Southerly winds in North Atlanti ocean, ii. 233 Souths, the, ii. 284-287 Sowden, Mr., i. 500 and note^soi Soy, i. 580 Spain, treasure fleet of, i. 88 noU 192, 199, 204-206 ; ii, 220-221 Spaniards, i. 71, 74, 184, 188,209-21 213, 215-216, 217, 223-224, 22/ 229 and noteSf 246-247, 252-25 257-259, 269-270, 274, 311-31 317-318, 338 and note, 363, 37 383; il. 193-194,218,219,223-2: Spice Islands, 1. 320, 325-326, 355-3 Spiders, ii. 165 Sprague (SpraggeX Sir Edward, il i and note ^ 620 INDEX prattin, Robert, i. 47 amd mcU pringer's Key, L 56 amd m^U, 57 quash, the, vl 160- 161 tar apple tree, L 224 tates Island, L 1 10 mmd m^e^ 419 tatham, Capt, L 93 maU^i iL 114 tock-iish-wood, ii. 159-160 tone, Mr., ii. 268 torms, terrible, i. 9^-^9> 409-411. 430-431; iL 189-190 torms, tropical, iL 279-293 ubtle-jacks, iL xh^atidtufU^ licking-fishes (Remora), L 94 mmd note-<^^ ; iL 275 agar, i. 241-242, 424-425 I ^ f-^ 370.382 Refining oi; ii. 382-383 umatra, L yib-yorj^ 398 and mUe^ 420, 461, 4^3. 484, 489 ; iL 90-97 ummasenta. River (Usamaswta River), iL 153, 198, 225 ummasenta winds, iL 265-266 un, declination oC in ralmbting meridians, L y;<) amd moU^ urinam, i. 64, 419 urrat channel, iL 5 1 wan, Capuin, i. 109, 112, 123, 161, 170, 184^/1^., 192, 193,210,212, 213, 216, 226, 227, 228, 233, 235, 238-239, 242 and tuf/e^-My, 244, 260, 266, 272, 275, 285-286, 288- 300, 3'4, 35S-356, 3S7-3A 435- -♦37 word fish, ii. 129 *ABAOO Island, L 207 amd 209,219,225; iL no, 154 able land, i. 513 abogilla Island, i. 209 mu *acatalpo, iL 207 'amarind, wild, L 324110/^' 'aneiuitoro Ptak, i. 266 mote-ifrj 'angoU Island, L250 'apir, ii. \^ and nde-iox 'ar tree, the, i. 389 and naU 'arpom fish, iL 117-118 *artan, Spanish, L 61 amdmoit^ *artars, subjection of Chinese by, i. 403, 413-414 . "artary, coast of, L 288 'artilloes, iL 145, 209 "ca, 405 'eat. Captain, L 293, 296, 368, 375, 377 and twU^ 38 19 432 Md moU\ 436,469.494 I I and isnrxk, 1. ^c^ amd mat : ii. ziif Tenaau l ax nw vt xi. i. zr-^ : L- 3V-23 Te maA i. Isiaxid c£. i.. yzi-^^ T eaga ife . Pikr ci ;. 73 i^nvU * : iL 3^ i»^ «/^. 35-^-3^1 TcsHjxnmder u^ 11. 3-: smd m4g-J72 Tesamde. l 33^ am vr^iff - Tessuna. La^rnsa. i^ i33-'>( Tcmasc:. 1. 3^^^. 423 «»i nt^u^ 43I: Terra del Fnsipct. I ^ j :s- 35^ 337 TempOL :- S2t amdmie^-i^, ThelHpan^ L 21^7 Tbwaji. r^jAitm l 329 ; :. 73-72 I>OBa» K-ner. <<£ L'3^^5. iV. liia&ds, ol iL 33^-313 La^xDca Terxaaa, of , 1^ 133 Xew HoUax^ vj^vl of, ; 451, 437 Stiooj^ afid weauL j- yJj^yJL TiCof^ L 320. 43?j Tiger cat. ;i- J^y3 Tlmaosi. PuJk*. ^ 3V-/ the »'/rici, ~ 37^37> Tmyx ImumI, l yy^. 432- -4^ 43^^ Tispo, IL 221 To^oco^, L 340 ««(/ iv«/^-34f IfjdAj, L 3c*4 Tomar/) n\^r and rilhi-^^. :. i</> |/yi TQ«npeck, ;l i^^ <jmu/ ftoU » TocDpe<pe laguoe a»j ''/tio, j;, 221 222 Toodeio, V.rktr, ijl 2f $ and fu^tr * Tcmqain — A&xmaJ Jile in, l 577 57', Ann* and armx '/f. *; 412 Bay o{. 1, 363. 5//, ; 1;, 35 Con»t;r»jtJ//n fWT, u. i <^/ i<^ Cookery marketv- pf/A^i«K/f««, 1, Dru^i jn. 1. 610-61 1 fishing m, 1. ^fSo-^Hi Funeral] fea%f in, 11, 2 } 24 Hor»^* and elep^anft of the kinic, 11- 3-4 Impoftt, i 612 621 INDEX Tonquin {continuedy-- Justice, administration of, ii. 12-16 Kings of, i. 596-597 ; ii. i et seq. Missionary work in, ii. 26-28 Natives of, i. 590 et seq.y 606-612 Naval force of, ii. 8-10 Productions, natural, of, i. 574-577 Provinces of, i. 573-574 Religion of, i. 394, 603-605 Situation, soil, &c, i. 571-572 Trading villages of, i, 566-570, 593- 594 otherwise mentioned, i. 489; ii. 160, 248, 312 Tornadoes, i. 107, 155-156, 236, 244, 330-331 ; "• 233-234, 272-273, 303-304 Tomd Zone, floods and harvests of, i. 584-589 Tortuga Island (off Cape Codera), i. 83 and note ^ Townley, Captain,!. 1 80, 2 1 2 and note •- 213, 216-217, 226, 228, 235, 238, 242, 244, 249-252, 259 and note\ 262-263, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276 Trade, English laxity as to, in the East, ii. 32-34 Trade winds — Coasting- Constant, ii. 239 Shifting — Oblique points, to, ii. 243-244 Opposite points, to, ii. 245-246 Monsoons in the East Indies, ii. 246-250 Definitions, ii. 229-230 Direction of, off Cape Corrientes, i. 294 Sailing against, ii. 249-2J0, 263 True, ii. 230-238; directions of, in N. and S. latitudes, ii. 231 Trangambar, i. 490 andnote^ 491, 493 ; ii. 81-82 Triangles, the, ii. 147 andnote^ Trinadada, Island of, i. 86 and note, 89 ; ". 316, 317 Trinity y The^ ii. 154 Triste Island, i. 461 and note ^"4^62 \ ii. 121-124, 151-152 Tristian, Captain, i. 54, 58, 68, 97, 213 Tropick birds, ii. 83 and note ' Truxillo, i. 124, 12^-1 2b and note Tucker, Captain, i. 57, 59, 62 Tuffoons, ii. 290-291 Tumaco Bay, i. 34 note • Turpentine, i. 610 Turtle, i. 67-68, 87, 128-135, ^57* '^2, 234. 330, 391, 393, 439, 443-444, 561 ; ii. 134, 167, 173. 322, 365- 366, 399, 426 Turtle doves, i. 129 Tutaneg (TinX ii. 95, 98, 99 Tygers, ii. 39^-397 Tyler, Captain, ii. 61, 75, 76-77,78 Typhoons, i. 409-411 Mid note, 586- 587 Ubi, Pulo, i. 396 and note, 397 ; ii* 3^ Vacca, Isles of, i. 28 andnote^f 97 Valderas valley, i. 273 andnote^-rjh Vally, Capt., ii. 190 Varela, Cape, i. 561 andnott^ Variations, Table of, ii. 412-415 Vaughan, Lord John, ii. \^t and note Venezuela, i. 93 and note * Verero, Pulo, ii. 81 Vermiatico tree, ii. 388 Villa de Mosa, iL 106-107, 208, 214 Vinello (vanilla), i. 69, 252-253 Virginia, i. 60, 95, 96 ; ii. 307 Volcan Vejo, i. 235 Wafer, Lionel, i. 40 note, 43 nott^ 46 and note, 48 and note, 50, 54 and note, 70 note^, 98 note^^ 108 note^y 175 note, 204, 243 note Wall is, Daniel, i. 399 and note^^ 52: and note Warner, Captain, ii. 1 1 1 and note*-ii: Warree (wild hog), i. 41 and note* Water in hot countries, i. 506-507 Water-dogs, ii. 398 Water-snake, ii. 398 Water-spout, i. 441-442 Watlin, Captain, i. 1 1 2 Way Island, i. 483; ii. 50, 51, 65 Weldon, Captain, i. 464, 489, 557-56C 610; ii. 19, 21, 22, 32, 34, 39-40, 4^ Wells, Mr., ii. 40-42, 44, 47^75 West Indies— Currents among, ii. 314-315 Dyes produced in, i. 245 Fruits of, i. 224, 241, 307, 323,324 ii. 390 Guinea, course to, ii. 244 Land animals of, ii. 136 Leg worms in, ii. 187-188 Navigation in, ii. 249 Pearl oysters in, i. 194 622 [NDEX TO THE APPENDICES, ETC. Indies {continued) — ts oi; i. 187, 232, 264, 387-390 ds, tides, and storms of, ii. 231, 3-244,279-290,311 s, ii. 384 andnot€\ 430 ey, Mr., ii. 109, 112, 113 tns, Captain, i. 57, 68 ; iL 36, nitions, ii. 229-230 i and sea breezes, see Land and le, see that title of Tcncriffe, ii. 355 Abraham, i. 443 n, position o^ in the East, i. 13, S99-600 Wood-quests, ii. 167 and note ^ Woodersy Will, ii. 12V124, 137 Worms in human nesh, i. 187 and note-iSS Wren, Captain, ii. 1 14 Wright, Captain, i. 57, 61, 69, 70, 75, 88, 92 note\ 153 note\ 201-204, 558 Yams, i. 41 and note ^ Yankes, Captain, i. ^y Yanky, Captain, i. 68, 70, 75-76, 88, 97 Yemma, ii. 394 Ylo River, i. 36 and note ", 122, 586 Yunam, i. 61 1 Zelisco Hill, i. 282 INDEX TO THE APPENDICES, ETC. , battle of, i. 53S I, R., deposition of, i. 544 , Dampier's letter from, ii. 333- 4 ia, adventure of the Cygnefs ewat, i. 541-542 e Islands, ii. 326 let's Delight^ Tke^ i. 530. 532- 4t537 iel Toro, i. 535 "AiN Cowley's Voyage round e Globe," i. 533 )ers, George, i. 542 John, i. 530, 533, 537 , Edmund, i. 530, 536 martial of Dampier, and papers lating to Lieut. Fisher, i. 5 ; 333-334 . |r, William Ambrosia, i. 532- i3 , John, i. 2, 29 and note^^ 531- H \ Tk€, i. 534, 53S. 540-531 Dampier, Mrs., i. 2 Dampier, George, i. 10, 28 note^ Dampier, William, Life of, i. 1 et seq» Estimation and appreciation of, work of, i. 10-13 Darien Isthmus, i. 3, 530, 531, 535, 536-537, 5?», S43 Davis or Davics, Edward, i. 2, 533- 534, 537, 53», S44 Eaton, John, i. 533, 534, 541 Flshek, Lieutenant George, mutiny of, ii. 333-334 GiLOLO Island, ii. 326 Grogniet, Franqois, i. 538 Harris, Peter, i. 531, 537, 542-544 ** History of the Buccaneers," i. 535 Indians, Wafer's life among, i. 537 JEOLY, Prince (the Painted Prince), i- S39-S40 Joliy Prize^ I he^ ii. 327 623 INDEX TO THE APPENDICES, ETC. Knight, John, ii. 327, 328, 330, 334 Knight, William, i. 534, 537, 538 Laurens, Captain, i. 531, 539 Madagascar, provisions at, ii. 526 Maps by Dampier, i. 21-22 and not e^ New Guinnia, ii. 326 New Holland voyage — Admiralty instructions, ii. 331 Dampier's letters relating to, ii. 325 et seq. Or FORD, Earl of, letter to, quoted from, ii. 330-33I Panama, i. 534, 538 Perico, battle of, i. 531, 535 Reitenge, The, i. 530, 532, 534, S37 Rmgrose, Basil, i. 535, 542, 543 Roebuck^ The^ provisionmg of, ii. 327- 329» 334 St, George^ The^ vo3rage o^ i. 6-8 St. George, Fort, provisions at, ii. 326 Sawkins, Richard, i. 3, 22 note\ 29 andnote\ 34, 530, 531, 535 Sharp or Sharpe, Bartholomew, i. 22 note 1, 29 and note \ 30 note ", 31, 32, 530, 531, 535-536 Swan, Charles, i. 2, 22 note 1, 535, 538, 540-545 Teat, Josiah, i. 541-543 Townley, Captain, i. 538 Tristian, Captain, i. 530, 533, 537, 539 Wafer, Lionel, i. 536-538 Warren, Robert, ii. 329-330 Watling, John, i. 535 Williams, John, i. 539 "V Wise, John, i. 544 Wright, Captain, i. 537 Yanky, Captain, i. 530, 531, 537, 539 THE END Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson &• Co. Exlinburgh 6* London iiiiiiiinl 3 2044 036 353 d The borrower must rcium this item on or before the last dale stamped below. 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