(Victor Hugo – 19th century author)

Incorrigible. Nicaragua, the largest country and least visited in Central America, coined the phrase ‘never give up’!  Zero ancient archeological sites remain and many of the countries museums, colonial buildings and theatres have been destroyed by years of revolution, a raging civil war and natural disasters.  Seventeen volcanoes take turns erupting, earthquakes on the countries 11 seismic faults level towns or whole pueblos and hurricanes blow coastal fishing villages off the map.  What remains is a vibrant landscape of rivers, tropical rainforests, lush mountains and dazzling beaches.  The ‘Nicas’ are strong individuals who have survived hardships, live with little infrastructure in remote areas and yet continue to have a passion for life.  Lively music blares as colorful markets offer a medley of handicrafts and produce.

Shaking off the yoke of the Spanish in 1821 the country was seized by American adventurer William Walker in 1855.  He was overthrown and executed in 1857, but only after burning colonial Granada.  What in the world was this criminal element doing invading a country?  Has much changed?  In the early 1900’s US military bases were established and the US and CIA took control of the military.  A string of puppet presidents and dictators came and went.  Assassinations and civil unrest prevailed.  In the 1980’s the US funded the Contra guerillas to overthrow the Sandinistas.  Once discovered years later, the funds were withdrawn and undoubtedly the control of Nicaragua went underground.  The CIA activity here is alive and well, with corruption of politicians allowing free reign.  The political situation in Central America remains as shaky as life on the fault line.  However unless all out fighting erupts, traveling in the region allows one to enjoy the country without knowing the bubbling mess under the surface.

Arriving in Managua by bus was nothing less than a shock.  Having ‘gone bush’ after weeks of quiet star filled nights and buying whatever we could find in little wooden shacks along dirt paths; we just walked around drop jawed at the size and confusion of the country’s capitol.  The downtown has suffered greatly from the 1972 earthquake that swallowed up the historic colonial buildings and killed over 20,000 people.  Gone are the cobble stone streets and character, replaced by a number of far from attractive modern buildings and large expanses of open spaces where historical structures had been.  Such is life in a country with 17 volcanoes ready to erupt when they have a bad day.  If that wasn’t bad enough the civil war of the late 70’s made sure to bomb or destroy whatever was spared by Nature.  

A further look at ‘Nica’ life on the other coast.  Different coast, different world.   Modern malls on the outskirts of the city attract residents from miles around.  But I still don’t know who can afford to buy a pair of sandals for $200?  The contrast of poverty and opulence within the borders of Nicaragua is typical worldwide.  We still feel that the simple joy felt in the poor rural villages surpasses those people shopping for fancy footwear.  Can you imagine high heels walking down a muddy lane along the east coast?  The locals would line up from miles around.  I can hear the belly laughs now!

We visited the national University, where we were warmly welcomed by the Regent and Vice Regents and groups of students. Joseph spoke on the benefits of e-text in our modern world.  Education is the key to solving the ills of our planet.

Granada, founded in 1524, is a pleasant colonial town, perfect for walking the cobblestone streets, sitting in the squares, visiting fine restaurants or stopping by the many well restored cathedrals.  Tourist flock here, some of the first we have seen in over a month, and we got our quota of, “Hi!, “Where are you from?”  “How long are you traveling?”   “Have you been to …………. ?”  We met a fun couple from Australia, Bernie and Trevor, who sold everything and moved overseas a year ago.  They excitedly told us of their adventures over pizza or a beer in the outside cafes of Calle Calzada street.  The highlight of our stay was to hook up with Rae Ann and Lee, friends of many years from Ocean View, on our Big Island of Hawaii.  This fiercely independent couple abandoned ship 8 years ago and have been teaching or just living overseas.  Rae Ann was raised in Central and South America traveling about with her Dad as he moved gold.  She knows the ropes in this often confusing and intricate web of life in the Americas.  We met for lunch many times at our favorite Nuestra Mundo buffet and learned of their life in Nicaragua over the last 2 years.  A week full of Aloha!

Ometepe.  Island of two volcanoes.  The only place I had marked to visit in the country looms in massive Lake Nicaragua.  Taking a 5 hour boat down from Granada we arrived after dark and were whisked away down a 4 mile ‘road’ of bumps in a mini van.  Spending the night in the northern coastal town of Altagracia, we walked the black streets punctuated by the singing from an ad hoc church or a small shack selling beans and rice.  Choosing food for the belly over food for the soul we passed several hours enjoying the local action along the sand streets.

One of the good things about traveling is that we left the worry of ownership of houses behind.  When the water wasn’t working the following morning we simply got on the bus and moved on.  Not our problem!  Driving through the lush countryside with green pastures of the islands farms, we finally settled in Playa Santo Domingo (Beach).  Playa Santo Domingo is the thin wedge of land that connects the massive volcanoes of Concepción and Maderas, the product of rich volcanic soil that washed down from the slopes of both volcanoes over millennia, gradually connecting the two islands.  We had promised ourselves a R & R leave for a week and that is exactly what we did.  Nothing.  Getting the one room right on the beach we swam, wrote, rested and hiked.  Next to a vegetarian restaurant we had the best smoothies daily but I ended up cooking nearby over a fire.  Fully smoked and flavorful (not only the food but me) I cooked alongside Grandma and daughter, turning out tasty vegan plates, with enough food to fill us, not just look nice.  Only eating one cooked meal a day we need more substance without just starch fillers; which my plates of international flavored vegetables are able to provide.  Buying the freshest vegetables in the market and using the spices I haul in my daypack, we end up with Thai Tom Ka soup or Indian curry on an island in the middle of Nicaragua.  The spice of life!

The indigenous people, Chorotegas and Nicaraos, were the first people to settle Ometepe.  Their descendants have a small town, laid back manner which makes you feel at home the minute you step off the ferry.  The Baile de las Ramas (Dance of the Branches) is a major component of one of the celebrations held on the island. The dancers tear off smaller branches of the guanacaste tree, and hold them to their heads while dancing to imitate the worker zompopo (leaf-cutter) ants carrying leaves off to the ant hills.  Leaf cutter ants work non stop in the tropics like the residents during high Christmas and Easter season.  During low season everything grinds to a halt and community members have time to actually swim in the revitalizing waters and relax like their ancestors.  Low season is a great time to visit anywhere; lower prices and relaxed locals in exchange for a little rain at night or a brief downpour in the afternoon.

We hiked part way up the Maderas Volcano, stopping for a lunch at Finca Magdalina a co-op coffee plantation nationalized during the war.  We hiked an hour further to look at interesting pre-columbium petro glyphs hidden in the dense forest.  Roberto and Marcus from the local Community Center led the way through winding paths.  On the way back we arranged for Joseph to give some e-text to the Center for use in their community education project.  With either Concepcion or Madera Volcanoes providing a stunning backdrop we walked almost 4 miles back to our beach, a real effort after our day of hiking up the volcano.  Weren’t we supposed to be resting?

A couple days later our daily walk took us past the sign for Sendero Pena Inculta Park.  Not to be missed, this rocky path led us for hours around a dense tropical forest full of pristine old growth trees, teeming with birds singing and monkeys squawking.  The little office building was closed tight, as were a lot of places on the island during low season, but it would have been a worthwhile entrance fee to help protect these majestic, rare old growth trees.   

Back to Granada we basked in the relaxing atmosphere only a colonial town can offer with historical buildings, central squares, and horses clopping along the stone streets.  Our bedroom was where the first President of Nicaragua slept over 100 years ago.  Spacious yet simple we luxuriated in the tiled bath, high ceilings and our own patio with an enormous 2 tiered inner courtyard.  Our range of rooms over the last 10 years has been from thatched roofed mud huts in Africa, to camel hair yurts in Inner Mongolia to oceanfront penthouses in Vietnam and now a colonial room of the first President in Nicaragua.  What next?  The truth is that right now, we carry our home in our heart.  And it is a happy home.

And so it goes…………………………………..Next continuing up Central America to Honduras.  Until next month Keep Smiling and remember to live with an ‘Attitude of Gratitude’.  Your cup really IS half full.  Thanks for traveling with us and for keeping in touch!  We love hearing from you.  Take care!

Love, Light & Laughter,

xoxoox  Nancy & Joseph