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HOB-NAILED BOOTS IN THE LOWLANDS
Barrymore & Billings, erected a small plant next door to its shop in Nassau Street, New York, as did Tiffany & Co.
In fact, the cutters grew in number, although not in im­portance. Just before the Great Debacle of 1929, the cutting firms of New York numbered about fifty. According to an article appearing in Fortune Magazine several years ago (and the figures are questionable, as all figures are when they deal with the diamond industry), these firms imported from 200,000 to 350,000 carats of rough diamonds each year, out of which came between 90,000 and 160,000 carats of polished stones; the workmen cut from 15 to 30 per cent of the diamonds sold in the United States, which was 25 per cent of all diamonds polished in the world. That figure, it is safe to say, is pretty high. But nearly all of these firms, with the exception of Baumgold's and a few others, dropped out of the cutting world and turned to importing or repre­senting smaller firms that could not afford to be present at the "sights" in London.
But after the depression the importance of the cutter grew and so did his guild—or, to be precise, the Diamond Workers' Protective Association of America. This is a union affiliated with the American Federation of Labor but it is so powerful, so compact in membership and rules, that it presumably could with deadly effect challenge the A. F. of L. if it dared to impose regulations and restrictions which the association felt unjust. This association—which is the near­est thing to a guild—is as exclusive as the country club in your home town and far more rigid—or was, until recently —in its qualifications for membership. Composed originally of naturalized Americans of Belgian or Dutch nativity, or the sons of Dutch and Belgian cutters, it has refused to allow anyone to join who was not related by blood to a
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