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HOB-NAILED BOOTS IN THE LOWLANDS
be assigned to the larger stones would still be getting the high wages enjoyed today. That is the reason for the dif­ferential, allowing for the usual difference between the best of European wages and the best of American wages.
If you think that is a far-fetched statement, let's go back a bit. Almost all of the small melee stones (1-10 of a carat or less, the little stones that decorate the sides of engage­ment rings, or that adorn brooches and breast-pins and bracelets) were cut in Antwerp and Amsterdam. When the war closed in on the Lowlands, further production stopped. The Belgians and the Dutch alone concentrated on the tiresome task of putting the necessary fifty-eight facets on the tiny stones. Americans couldn't be bothered.
Now, with the crisis, Americans had to be bothered. People were demanding melee stones in their rings and brooches and bracelets the same as ever, but dealers weren't able to supply them. One great diamond importing house moaned that if melee weren't supplied soon it would have to go out of business. The great firms weren't importing because there wasn't anything of considerable amount and value to import. But various cutting firms, as well as some of the importers, perhaps, saw that the cutting of melee in the United States must be encouraged. They knew they couldn't depend upon England. It soon became apparent there that the number of cutters fleeing from the Low Countries could do little to fill the demand. The establish­ment of a large industry became obviously unlikely since young men who might serve as apprentices were scarcely available because of the war.
The same was true in South Africa, where young men were being called to the colors. As an alternative, the pos­sibility of training white women and colored people to cut
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