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FIRE IN THE EARTH
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enameled
and jeweled gold and diamonds were notably beautiful. At the same time
others, particularly Castellani of Rome and Fontenay of Paris, drew
inspiration from such classical jewelry as that of the Campana
collection and produced delicate "Etruscan" work in diamonds and gold
adorned with filigree.
United
States craftsmen have not been behind the parade in the creation of
unique and bold new designs. Louis Tiffany, son of the founder of the
store by that name, was one of the greatest jewelry designers in the
country, interna-tionally recognized, ranking with his great French
contemporary, Lalilque, in devising ornaments of real artistry and
good taste. lt was Tiffany's that conceived the setting tor the
solitaire diamond engagement ring. The complete simplicity of this
pronged cup holding a single diamond brilliant for years has been as
sacred to matrimony as white icing on the.wedding cake.
One
of the most revolutionary—and most recent—designs to come out of the
United States is the Reflection design. The centuries-old history of
jewelry design, teeming as it does with romance and excitement, hardly
holds a tale more thrilling than the modem adventure which resulted in
the discovery and development of Reflection, which some say is the
first and only truly American jewel style. It was the sun that supplied
the inspiration for this unusual achievement
Some
years ago, Howard Hoeffer, head of the House of Trabert and
Hoeffer-Mauboussin conducted a survey to determine why women of fashion
invariably grew tired of their jewels after having worn them but a
short time. His findings from this research were, to a large extent, a
corroboration of his own thoughts on the matter. The underlying cause
of the lack of enthusiasm was in the design. Intensive
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