per
cent of the original stone. For diamonds have styles and fashions, too.
Jewelers of this store emphasize that many a large diamond jewelry
anachronism, such as "old miners" or rose cuts, is of less value, than
if it were recut into the modern brilliant or emerald style and placed
in an up-to-date setting, even though in order to do so the owner must
spend 25 per cent of the original cost of the gem. This store is called
upon once in a while to break up whole collections of diamonds,
creating newer and perhaps smaller —and certainly less
spectacular—pieces, placing them once more on sale.
What
goes on in the Black, Starr & Gorham shop more or less applies to
other big jewelry houses. They insist upon designing and manufacturing
their own pieces because their particular "style" is identified with
their house in the buying public's mind. Even the small jeweler has
ideas of his own about design and he makes them clear to the wholesale
manufacturer. A diamond, he will tell you, is a thing of beauty, but
not unless it is in a proper setting, worthy of its loveliness and
dignity, will it be a joy forever.