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DIAMONDS IN FASHION: II
of the Auxiliary Territorial Service, the Auxiliary Air Force, or the "Fannys," the motor drivers. There is, however, an agitation on foot from the dressmaking trade (in which the jewellery trade might well join) to have this altered so that evening dress will still be worn. The other women on the floor have so far worn day dresses for the most part but already white ties for men and therefore proper evening dress for women is creeping back. There will now be no more than six or eight men at the Embassy dancing at night in white ties and tails, but that is the beginning of a movement in the direction of more formality.
So it may be taken for certain that more jewellery will be worn in a few months time. While the blackout is so complete women are not going to risk having jewels on them which can be so easily stolen, and the thief disappearing into the darkness. Nor do they want to risk being caught by an air-raid wearing such things. On the other hand the banks can take not even small parcels any more, for all the family silver of the country has been deposited in their vaults. In some cases they say they cannot even close the outer doors—and have special guards on that account.
Identity (war) badges: Identity bracelets are not elaborate, usu­ally in gold with an inscription on one side and the name and address and number of the registration card on the other. Occa­sionally pearl bracelets hold the identity plate or the back of a dia­mond cluster centering a pearl strand bracelet will have the infor­mation on the back. Gold compacts with the wearer's name set in diamonds and/or other precious stones are seen carried in the hand or in the bag at luncheon; also at the bottle party clubs which go far into the night despite the blackout. But these are ex­ceptions, not in any way a rule-even with the rich.
The United States has had its modest share of fashion leaders. Quite appropriately, since this is a democracy and our statesmen are not selected by the aristocracy and sel­dom from it, few invaded the White House. One might stretch the imagination sufficiently to say that Dolly Madi­son, the aristocratic Miss Van Buren, and young Mrs. Grover Cleveland dominated fashions, jeweled and other-
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