of
the Auxiliary Territorial Service, the Auxiliary Air Force, or the
"Fannys," the motor drivers. There is, however, an agitation on foot
from the dressmaking trade (in which the jewellery trade might well
join) to have this altered so that evening dress will still be worn.
The other women on the floor have so far worn day dresses for the most
part but already white ties for men and therefore proper evening dress
for women is creeping back. There will now be no more than six or eight
men at the Embassy dancing at night in white ties and tails, but that
is the beginning of a movement in the direction of more formality.
So
it may be taken for certain that more jewellery will be worn in a few
months time. While the blackout is so complete women are not going to
risk having jewels on them which can be so easily stolen, and the thief
disappearing into the darkness. Nor do they want to risk being caught
by an air-raid wearing such things. On the other hand the banks can
take not even small parcels any more, for all the family silver of the
country has been deposited in their vaults. In some cases they say they
cannot even close the outer doors—and have special guards on that
account.
Identity
(war) badges: Identity bracelets are not elaborate, usually in gold
with an inscription on one side and the name and address and number of
the registration card on the other. Occasionally pearl bracelets hold
the identity plate or the back of a diamond cluster centering a pearl
strand bracelet will have the information on the back. Gold compacts
with the wearer's name set in diamonds and/or other precious stones are
seen carried in the hand or in the bag at luncheon; also at the bottle
party clubs which go far into the night despite the blackout. But these
are exceptions, not in any way a rule-even with the rich.
The
United States has had its modest share of fashion leaders. Quite
appropriately, since this is a democracy and our statesmen are not
selected by the aristocracy and seldom from it, few invaded the White
House. One might stretch the imagination sufficiently to say that Dolly
Madison, the aristocratic Miss Van Buren, and young Mrs. Grover
Cleveland dominated fashions, jeweled and other-
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