Star Date:  January 2016
Egypt IV:  Cairo, Sinai, Dahab

     
 

Hello Dear Family & Friends!

 

"Ensala"
 
(God/Allah willing - Arabic)
 

 

 

 "The wonder of any land is not in the land but in the mind seeing it.  If you have wonder in your mind, you will see wonder in your life. ….Leave not the wonder of your childhood behind...."

 

 

Ancient Egypt, a land of mystery and intrigue.  A society closely connected to Nature and the movements of the Heavens.  Modern Egypt is full of crowds, noise, deceptive, pushy touts and chaos.  Cairo is the epitome of this with 30 million people crowded into the maze, all honking at the same time!  If only I could have invented a drone with a 'mute' button!  Quiet, what is quiet?  Fiercely proud of their heritage and welcoming, a visitor here must take a deep breath and dive below the churning waves to the calmness of a tree lined back alley, sip a tea at a 'sheesha' street side cafe, experience the peace of a mosque enclosure or ride a camel beyond the crowds to gaze back on the magnificence of the Pyramids of Giza. 

One of the remaining wonders of the world, the Great Pyramids are one of the greatest mysteries on the planet.  Unable to reproduce them or assemble them with modern technology, the pyramids once again force even the skeptics to take a walk outside the box.  How were they built?   We stood in awe once again at the sheer size.  There is something in this equation that is unknown.  The Egyptians lived in sync with the Celestial Heavens and had placed the pyramids in line with the stars in the belt of Orion.  Some say the pyramids were beacons when they rested near the water, others theorize that the structures are actually massive batteries.  Unlike the highly decorated temples everywhere else in Egypt these pyramids are empty inside, showing they weren't typical tombs and may have existed before the Egyptian civilization evolved.  The Sphinx was originally a large stone lion that was covered by the sands of time.  When the desert winds revealed the head, the prolific craftsmen of ancient Egypt quickly carved it into the shape of their Pharaoh's head.  Still the head is too small for the large body, a misfit as such.  More questions.  Out in the desert far away from the crowds it is easier to free your mind and open up to the endless possibilities.  Whatever the true history doesn't matter.  The magnificence outweighs the logic.

Another must is spending an afternoon at the Cairo Egyptian Museum.  All the best of the best is displayed (what the tomb robbers didn't steal away that is).  Mummies of kings and commoners, mummies of animals and birds, coins, King Tut's finery, statues, jewels, pottery, boats, sarcophagi.  Many hidden treasures await your discovery in this unique, dramatic, spell binding museum.

Modern Cairo is dominated by mosques and Islamic sights.  Call to prayer five times a day, reminds you of the exotic surroundings, filled with at times devoted Muslims in this megalopolis of chaos.  We visited Cairo at the height of Ramadan, when people are hungry, business hours are random, and smokers are cranky from fasting from sunrise to sunset.  Tension is high and just when you feel the city will explode like a pressure cooker, the hot sun subsides, devotees share a meal, and smokers chain smoke a few cigarettes.  The idea of Ramadan is to pay off debts, forgive wrongs and act with compassion towards those around you (lying to tourists exempted).  About 4 pm everyday large vats of food are prepared, tables are set up, and the poor are offered a lovely, simple meal for free.  Thousands are fed nightly and the true compassion of these wonderful, friendly Arabs resounds through the streets.  Don't believe the media hype. Muslims are just like you and I.  They are some of the most open, helpful, and welcoming people on the planet.

Even centuries ago the Coptic Christians escaped the confusion of Cairo.  On the outskirts of town, now engulfed by the encroaching city, lies an interesting look at St Georges Church, monasteries and ancient cemeteries of the Coptics; a minority in this 95% Islamic country.

Get lost!  This is what needs to be done in Khan al Kalili Bazaar.  Like no other on earth this maze of side alleys, low doorways, magic or flying carpets, chai (tea) shops, colorful material and clothing shops, perfume salesmen, falafel stands, mosques, jewelry shops, spice merchants will leave your head spinning!  When the swarm of touts gets thick just smile and say, No, Thank You!!" and keep walking.  Let go of your fears!  Don't try to keep track of your footsteps, just wander.  And when you've had enough keep asking directions to Fishawis Teashop.  Order a cup of hibiscus tea, sit, relax, cool off and look through your newly acquired treasures.  From there get pointed in the direction of the main square. Walk behind the large mosque and along the streets of Bein al Qasreen to see Medieval Cairo.

Education is a priority in Egypt.  We visited the new Cairo University library, home of 270,000 students.  The director of the library and her great staff showed us around and made us feel welcome.  When we thanked her I can still hear her saying, "Thank you for being you!"

We had entered Egypt via ferry from Aqaba Jordan, landing in Nuweba.  After the exhausting overnight ordeal we rested for 2 nights at one of the serene, peaceful 'camps' along the Red Sea.  We met a wonderful young Egyptian man, Zion, and he and Joseph had many long talks.  The heat kept us lying low mid day but we went snorkeling in the rich coral reefs near shore morning and sunset.  With over 1000 species of fish and 150 types of coral we always saw something new.  We saw lion fish, scorpion fish, unicorn fish, tangs, cardinal fish, trevally, trigger fish, butterfly fish, rays, and even spied a deadly stone fish and a giant blue clam, naming just a few.  We would stay in the warm waters for hours and once had 'Stripes" a tiny one inch fish follow us around for over an hour!  "Are you my Mommy?"

On we ventured south to Dahab.  Enough can't be said about this small 'chillaxin" town along the Red Sea.  A small pedestrians only promenade along the sea side, shops, a beach, reasonable pensions, warm weather with a constant breeze and great restaurants made this a place to remember.  Yes, we had indeed found the calm in the storm called modern Egypt.     

 

 

And so it goes.........................................Next Lebanon, a fascinating country full of ancient treasures.  Until then let's remember to look at the world with open eyes, looking for the good and leaving not the wonder of our childhood behind.  Take care and Keep in Touch!

 

 

 

Love, Light & Laughter, 

 
xoxoox  Nancy & Joseph

 

 

Travel notes:

 

1 US Dollar equals 7.63 Egyptian pounds

 

Cairo:
Vienna Hostel at Backpacker Point 26 Mahmoud St
Phone # 002 0122 589 574  In an old Cairo Apartment
Alley life down below  140el  Clean, basic, friendly front desk  2 minutes walk  from the Egyptian Museum.  Close to falafel and other shops 

Check Happyton Hotel, 10, Ally El Kassar St  160el
phone # 2592 28671 
good location - often full

 

Felfela Restaurant - within 2 blocks - good, classy, Egyptian food in a garden setting - many vegetarian dishes (try the grilled vegetables) good prices
15 Hoda Shaarawy Downtown  Phone# 2392275
Around the corner on the main street is a fast food version of
the restaurant.  Falafel wraps for a good price.
 

Freedom Hostel
SherifBashat/ Kasar al Nile - website plus phone # 20 22 39 26 157 ($27 for double w/bath)


Khan al Kalili:  One of the best bazaars on the planet.  Just get lost!  Behind the Bazaar - looking out of the bazaar to the park/mosque on left; turn left down an alley to Darb-al Asfar. Take a walk through the grandeur of Medieval Cairo.  First come to the textile Museum and across Madrassa & Mausoleum and many ancient buildings to enjoy.

Bein al Qasreen old Islamic section

Sufi whirling Wikala of al Ghourin Wed & Sat.  Was closed when we went . Al Tannoura Dance troupe Cairo:

Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza Plateau  24 pyramids lined up, each within sight of the next one, all along the Nile in this area.

Egyptian Museum
Ramadan closes at 2:30 Must check in your camera.
Don't miss King Tut Gallery.

Nuweba:
Moon Island Beach Camp 
http://www.nuweibabeach.com/moon-island.htm

[email protected]
FB: www.facebook.com/MoonIslandCamp
Manager: Selim
mobile 0100 - 733 31 02

From the finest spot of the Sinai Peninsula lies the idealistic 'Moon Island', bringing you one of the most scenic, quiet and secluded beaches of Egypt to keep you relaxed and help you unwind.

Attraction: Diving / Snorkelling ; Hiking ; Safari trips

Dahab:
Jasmine Pension and Restaurant.  Clean, well kept, friendly managers Tito, in the quiet end of the beach/promenade.  Get one of the rooms 1-4 facing the sea with a little balcony to enjoy the breeze
email:
[email protected],  phone # +20 123 5523 18

 

Sharm el Sheik: 
Pass on through unless you have scored a good priced hotel through a tour or online.  Very expensive and simply a high class resort town packed with charter flights and lots of Russians getting baked.

 

 

 

 

 
 

 


 

`

 
The enormous, imposing Pyramids of Giza.  Notice the tiny
camel in front.  They are massive!

 


A couple of shady camel traders!

 


The Sphinx with 3 pyramids in the distance.  Check out the
dust devil whirling in the back.

 


The best way to ponder and take in the mystery of the pyramids
 is to first gaze on them from the tranquil desert beyond.

 


If you own an camel you always have shade!

 


The Sphinx was originally a large stone lion that was
 covered by the sands of time.  When the desert winds
revealed the head,the prolific craftsmen of ancient Egypt
 quickly carved it into the shape of their Pharaoh's head.

 


"Tiny" megaton rocks making up a wall near the pyramids.

 


The new 8 storey library at the University of Cairo.  This
 library services the 270,000 students, in the largest
University in all of Africa.

 


Ah, Khan al Kalili Bazaar!  They sell a little bit of
everything here; known or unknown.

 


In the tiny mazelike alleys there is something for everyone.
Fancy a new Burka or some risqué underwear?

 


Darb-al Asfar. Take a walk through the grandeur of Medieval
 Cairo, behind the Bazaar.

 


Mouth watering fruit.

 


Sheesha central.  (waterpipes).

 


A cornucopia of fruits.

 


Teas, herbs and spices.  We loved the rich flavored
red hibiscus tea.

 


Fancy a mango?

 


Brass, copper, silver and gold smiths abound.

 


Spices and grains.

 


Hot bread still steaming from the wood fired ovens.  

 


Getting lost in the maze is the best way to experience Khan al Kalili.
 Great fun!

 


A little bit of this and a lot of that.

 


When you've had enough; keep asking directions to Fishawis Teashop.
 Order a cup of hibiscus tea, sit, relax, cool off and look through
your newly acquired treasures.

 


The mosque on the main square.

 


Women dressed in 'table cloth' coverings, as we saw in
Gujarat, India.

 


A handsome young member of the Egyptian security force.

 


Some of the captivating Medieval buildings behind the Bazaar.

 


A shop for making custom felt 'fez'hats.

 


Even centuries ago the Coptic Christians escaped the
confusion of Cairo. 

 


A Coptic Priest, busy communicating with God, via cell phone.

 


 On the outskirts of town, now engulfed by the encroaching city,
lies an interesting look at St Georges Church, monasteries and ancient cemeteries of the Coptics; a minority in this 95% Islamic country.

 


Intricate Coptic paintings.

 


Iconic symbolism.

 


This Coptic church, hidden in the center of Cairo has a small following
of Christians.  Note the poster of one of their eminent leaders on the
 wall.  He wears a 'Beatle-type"wig to signify his high status.

 


Buddies in our neighborhood!

 


At the break of fasting every day at sunset, during Ramadan,
 families gather to eat together.  We were continually invited
 to share food.

 


Businesses and/or restaurants offer free food for poor people
every sundown during the month of Ramadan. 
Don't believe the
 media hype. Muslims are just like you and I.  They are some of the
 most open, helpful, and welcoming people on the planet.
 

 


Outside the enthralling, exotic Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
(Cameras not allowed).

 


Symbolism abounds in Egypt.  This is the ceiling of the
main train station in Cairo.

 


The natural desolation of the Sinai Peninsula.  Hard to
 believe that Bedouins still survive out here.

 


On we ventured south to Dahab.  Enough can't be said
 about this small 'chillaxin" town along the Red Sea.

 


No camels or horses allowed on the promenade.

 


 A small pedestrians only promenade along the sea side, shops, a
 beach, reasonable pensions, warm weather with a constant
breeze and great restaurants made this a place to remember.

 


Fishing in the Red Sea.

 


The ferry heading south from Aqabar, Jordan to Saudi Arabia,
through the Red Sea.

 


We met a wonderful young Egyptian man, Zion, and he and
 Joseph had many long talks.

 


Basic, serene beach camps dot the shores of the Red Sea.
The heat kept us lying low mid day but we went snorkeling
in the rich coral near shore morning and sunset.  With over
1000 species of fish and 150 types of coral we
always saw something new.

 

 

 

 

 


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