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SHODDY
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SHODDY , in origin probably a factory See also:term and first applied to the See also:waste thrown off or " See also:shed " during the See also:process of See also:wool manufacture. It is now the name given to a See also:special type of fabric made from remanufactured materials, i.e. materials which have already been spun into See also:yarn and See also:woven into See also:cloth but have been torn up or " ground up "—as this operation is termed technically—into a fibrous See also:mass, and respun and rewoven. The term " shoddy " is sometimes applied to all fabrics made of such remanufactured materials, of which there are many types, such as " mungos," " extracts," " flocks," &c., but strictly it should be confined to a cloth produced from fabrics originally made from See also:English and the longer See also:cross-bred wools. Mungo is produced from fabrics originally made from See also:Botany and See also:short See also:fine wools; See also:extract is the wool fibre obtained from goods origin-ally composed of wool and See also:cotton from which the cotton has been " extracted " by sulphuric See also:acid or some other See also:agent; and flocks mostly come from milling, raising and cropping See also:machines. There are some few other particular types of See also:minor importance. The operations of converting rags, tailors' clippings, &c., into these remanufactured materials are as follows: dusting, to render the subsequent operations as healthy and agreeable as possible; seaming i.e. taking out every little See also:bit of sewing See also:thread (unless the rags are for extracting) in See also:order that a See also:good " spin " may result; sorting into the various qualities and See also:colours; oiling, to cause the See also:fibres to glide upon one another, and thus See also:separate so far as possible without breakage; and finally grinding, i.e. tearing up into a fibrous mass which may be readily spun into threads. The last-named operation is usually spoken of as " grinding, " but really it is anything but grinding, being more of a teasing-out operation, the See also:object being to preserve the length of the fibre so far as possible. The remanufactured materials are necessarily very short in fibre, so that it is usually necessary to mix, i.e. " blend," some better material with them to carry the bulk through the machines into the yarn. With this object in view, sometimes good wool or noils (the short from combing), but more often cotton, is employed. The yarns thus spun are in the See also:majority of cases woven into pieces as weft yarns, the warps usually being cotton; but there are some exceptions, a really good mungo blend being readily woven as warp. Upon the whole the " cheap and nasty " See also:idea usually associated with the term " shoddy," in reference to these remanufactured materials, is quite a See also:mistake. Some most excellent cloths are produced, and when See also:price is taken into See also:consideration it must be conceded that the development of this See also:industry has benefited the- working classes of See also:Great See also:Britain and other countries to a remarkable extent. Many are now well clothed, who, without the See also:advent of the remanufactured materials, would have been clothed in rags. Additional information and CommentsThere are no comments yet for this article.
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