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CHRUDIM

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Originally appearing in Volume V06, Page 319 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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CHRUDIM , a See also:

town of Bohemia, See also:Austria, 74 m. E.S.E. of See also:Prague by See also:rail. Pop. (woo) 13,017, mostly See also:Czech. It has an important See also:horse See also:market, besides manufactures of See also:sugar, See also:spirits, See also:beer, soda-See also:water and agricultural machinery. There are also See also:steam See also:corn-See also:mills and saw-mills. Chrudim is mentioned as the See also:castle of a gaugraf as See also:early as 993. The new town was founded by Ottokar II., who settled many Germans in it and gave it many privileges. After 1421 Chrudim was held by the See also:Hussites, and though See also:Ferdinand I. confiscated most of the town See also:property, it prospered greatly till the outbreak of the See also:Thirty Years' See also:War. In 1625 the greater See also:part of its Hussite inhabitants See also:left the town, which suffered much later on from the Swedes. Chrudim was the birthplace of See also:Joseph Ressel (1793-1857), honoured in Austria as the inventor of the See also:screw propeller. CHRYSANTHEMUM' (Chrysanthemum sinense; nat. ord.

See also:

Compositae), one of the most popular of autumn See also:flowers. It is a native of See also:China, whence it was introduced to See also:Europe. The first chrysanthemum in See also:England was grown at See also:Kew in 1790, whither it had been sent by Mr Cels, a See also:French gardener. It was not, however, till 1825 that the first chrysanthemum See also:exhibition took See also:place in England. The small-flowered pompons, and the See also:grotesque-flowered See also:Japanese sorts, are of comparatively See also:recent date, the former having originated from the See also:Chusan See also:daisy, a variety introduced by Mr See also:Fortune in 1846, and the latter having also been introduced by the same traveller about 1862. The Japanese kinds are unquestionably the most popular for decorative purposes as well as for exhibition. They afford a wide choice in See also:colour, See also:form, See also:habit and times of flowering. The incurved See also:Chinese kinds are severely neat-looking flowers in many shades of colour. The See also:anemone-flowered kinds have See also:long See also:outer or See also:ray petals, the interior or disk petals being See also:short and tubular. These are to be had in many pleasing See also:colours. The pompon kinds are small flowered, the petals being short. The See also:plants are mostly See also:dwarf in habit.

In the single varieties the outer or ray florets alone are large and attractively coloured. Plants for the Border.—As a border plant out of doors the chrysanthemum is of the easiest culture. It is an exceptionally See also:

good town plant. By a judicious selection of varieties, flowers may be produced in abundance and in considerable variety from See also:August to the end of See also:November, and in favourable seasons well on towards See also:Christmas. Since 1890 when the See also:English market was flooded with French raised varieties of exceptional merit, the border chrysanthemum has taken first place among See also:hardy autumn flowering plants. Most of the varieties then introduced have been superseded by many excellent kinds raised in See also:Britain. See also:Propagation.—The old English method of dividing the plants in See also:March or early See also:April may be followed where better means of propagation are not practicable. Many of the best border varieties are shy in producing new growths (suckers) from the rootstock, and are in consequence not amenable to this method. It is better to raise the plants from cuttings. This maybe begun in See also:January for the early flowering sorts, the See also:late kinds being propagated during See also:February and March. They will See also:root quite well in a See also:cold See also:frame, if protected during frosty See also:weather by See also:litter or other similar material. If the frame can be heated at will so as to maintain a fairly even temperature of from 40° to 50° Fah., roots will be made more quickly and with more certainty.

A still better method is to improvise a frame near the See also:

glass in a greenhouse, where the temperature is not raised above 5o by artificial See also:heat. This has the See also:advantage of being accessible in all weathers. The bottom of the frame is covered with sifted See also:coal ashes or coco-See also:nut fibre, on which the shallow boxes or pots used in propagating are placed. These are well drained with broken crocks, the bottoms of the boxes being drilled to allow water to pass out quickly. The See also:soil should consist of about equal parts of fibrous See also:loam and See also:leaf-See also:mould, See also:half a part of coarse See also:silver-See also:sand, and about a quart of See also:vegetable ash from the See also:garden refuse heap to each See also:bushel of the compost. The whole should be passed through a See also:quarter See also:inch See also:sieve and thoroughly mixed. The coarse leaf-mould, &c., from the sieve should be spread thinly over the drainage, and the boxes or pots filled almost to the rims with the compost, and i The Gr. xpvo&vee ioe (xpveds, See also:gold, and &v®eµov, See also:flower) was the herbalists' name for C. segetum, the " corn See also:marigold," with its yellow See also:bloom, and was transferred by See also:Linnaeus to the genus, being commonly restricted now to the See also:species C. sinense. covered, if possible, with a thin layer of silver-sand. It should be pressed firmly, watered with a See also:fine See also:rose, and allowed to drain for an See also:hour. The cuttings should then be dibbled into the boxes in rows, just clear, the soil being gently pressed around each. Short stout shoots which arise directly from the rootstock make the best cuttings. In their See also:absence cuttings from the stems are used.

The ideal length for a cutting is about 21 in. Cut the See also:

stem squarely with a See also:sharp See also:knife just below a See also:joint, and remove the See also:lower leaves. Insert as soon as possible and water with a fine rose to See also:settle the soil around them. The soil is not allowed to become dry. The cuttings should be looked over daily, decayed leaves removed, and surplus moisture, condensed on the glass, wiped away. Ventilate gradually as rooting takes place, and, when well rooted, See also:transfer singly into pots about 3 in. in See also:diameter, using as compost a mixture of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould, half a part coarse silver-sand, and a See also:gallon of vegetable ash to every bushel of the compost. Return to the frames and keep See also:close for a few days to allow the little plants to recover from the check occasioned by the potting. See also:Ventilation should be gradually increased until the plants are able to See also:bear full exposure during favourable weather, without showing signs of See also:distress by flagging. They should be carefully protected at all times from cold cutting winds. In April, should the weather be favourable, the plants may be transferred to the See also:borders, especially should the positions happen to be sheltered. If this is not practicable, another shift will be necessary, this See also:time into pots about 5 in. in diameter. The soil should be similar to that advised for the previous potting, enriched with half a part of horse manure that has been thoroughly sweetened by exposure.

Plant out during May. All borders intended for chrysanthemums should be well dug and manured. The strong growing kinds should be planted about 3 ft. apart, the smaller kinds being allowed a little less See also:

room. In the summer, water in dry weather, See also:syringe in the evenings whenever practicable, and keep the borders See also:free from weeds by See also:surface hoeings; stake and tie the plants as required, and pinch out the tips of the shoots until they have become sufficiently bushy by frequent branching. Pinching should not be practised later than the end of See also:June. Pot Plants for Decoration.—A See also:list of a few of the thousands of varieties suitable for this purpose would be out of place here; new varieties are being constantly introduced, for these the reader is referred to See also:trade catalogues. The most important considerations for the beginner are (a) the choice of colours; (b) the types of flowers; (c) the height and habits of the varieties. Generally speaking, very tall varieties and those of weak growth and delicate constitutions should be avoided. The See also:majority of the varieties listed for exhibition purposes are also suitable for decoration, especially the Japanese kinds. Propagation and early culture are substantially as for border plants. As soon as the 5-in. pots are filled with roots, no time should be lost in giving them the final shift. Eight-in. pots are large enough for the See also:general stock, but very strong growers may be given a larger See also:size.

The soil, prepared a fortnight in advance, should consist of four parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-mould, one part horse manure prepared as advised above, half a part coarse silver-sand, half a part of vegetable ash; and a quart of See also:

bone-See also:meal or a sprinkling of basic slag to every bushel of the mixture. Mix thoroughly and turn over at intervals of three or four days. Pot firmly, working the soil well around the roots with a See also:lath. The See also:main stake for the support of the plant should now be given; other and smaller stakes may later be necessary when the plants are grown in a bushy form, but their number should not be overdone. The stakes should be as few as possible consistent with the safety of the shoots, which should be looped up loosely and neatly. The plants should be placed in their summer quarters directly after potting. Stand them in rows in a sunny situation, the pots clear of one another, sufficient room being allowed between the rows for the See also:cultivator to move freely among them. The main stakes are tied to rough trellis made by straining See also:wire in two rows about 2 ft. apart between upright poles driven into the ground. Coarse coal ashes or See also:coke See also:breeze are the best materials to stand the pots on, there being little See also:risk of See also:worms working through into the pots. The plants, which are required to produce as many flowers as possible, should have their tips pinched out at frequent intervals, from the end of March or beginning of April to the last See also:week in June, for the main See also:season kinds; and about the See also:middle of See also:July for the later kinds. Towards the end of July the plants will need feeding at the roots with weak liquid manure, varied occasionally by a very slight dusting of soluble chemical manure such as See also:guano. The soil should be moderately moist when manure is given.

In See also:

order that the flowers may be of good form, all lateral flower buds should be removed as soon as they are large enough to handle, leaving only the bud terminating each shoot. Towards the end of September—earlier should the weather prove wet and cold—remove the plants to well-ventilated greenhouses where they are intended to flower. Feeding should be continued until the flowers are nearly half open, when it may be gradually reduced. The large See also:mop-headed blooms seen at exhibitions in November are grown in the way described, but only one or two shoots are allowed to develop on a plant, each shoot eventually having only one bloom. The chrysanthemum is subject to the attack of See also:black aphis andgreen-See also:fly. These pests may be destroyed, out of doors, by syringing with See also:quassia and soft See also:soap solutions, by dusting the affected parts with See also:tobacco-See also:powder, and indoors also by fumigating. See also:Mildew generally appears after the plants are housed'. It may be destroyed by dusting the leaves attacked with sublimed See also:sulphur. See also:Rust is a fungoid disease of recent years. It is best checked by syringing the plants with See also:liver of sulphur (i oz. to 3 gallons of water) occasion-ally, a few See also:weeks before taking the plants into the greenhouse. Earwigs and slugs must be trapped and destroyed. Flowers for Exhibition.—Flowers of exhibition See also:standard must be as broad and as deep as the various varieties are capable of producing; they must be irreproachable in colour.

They must also exhibit the form See also:

peculiar to the variety when at its best, very few kinds being precisely alike in this respect. New varieties are introduced in large See also:numbers annually, some of which supplant the older kinds. The cultivator must therefore study the peculiarities of several new kinds each See also:year if he would be a successful exhibitor. For lists of varieties, &c. see the catalogues of chrysanthemum growers, the gardening See also:Press, and the excellent cultural See also:pamphlets which are published from time to time.

End of Article: CHRUDIM

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