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See also:HYACINTH (Gr. ualavOor) , also called JACINTH (through Ital. giacinto), one of the most popular of See also:spring See also:garden See also:flowers. It was in cultivation See also:prior to 1597, at which date it is mentioned by See also:Gerard. Rea in 1665 mentions several single and See also:double varieties as being then in See also:English gardens, and See also:Justice in 1754 describes upwards of fifty single-flowered varieties, and nearly one See also:hundred double-flowered ones, as a selection of the best from the catalogues of two then celebrated Dutch growers. One of the Dutch sorts, called La Reine de Femmes, a single See also: In the spring See also:flower garden few plants make a more effective display than the hyacinth. Dotted in clumps in the flower See also:borders, and arranged in masses of well-contrasted See also:colours in beds in the flower garden, there are no flowers which impart during their See also:season—See also: The best time to plant the bulbs is towards the end of See also:September and during See also:October; they should be arranged in rows, 6 to 8 in. asunder, there being four rows in each See also:bed. The bulbs should be sunk about 4 to 6 in. deep, with a small quantity of clean sand placed below and around each of them. The beds should be covered with decayed tan-bark, coco-See also:nut fibre or See also:half-rotten dung litter. As the flower-stems appear, they are tied to rigid but slender stakes to preserve them from See also:accident. If the bulbs are at all prized, the stems should be broken off as soon as the flowering is over, so as not to exhaust the bulbs; the leaves, however, must be allowed to grow on till matured, but as soon as they assume a yellow colour, the bulbs are taken up, the leaves cut off near their See also:base, and the bulbs laid out in a dry, See also:airy, shady place to ripen, after which they are cleaned of loose See also:earth and skin, ready for storing. It is the practice in Holland, about a See also:month after the bloom, or when the tips of the leaves assume a withered appearance, to take up the bulbs, and to See also:lay them sideways on the ground, covering them with an See also:inch or two of earth. About three See also:weeks later they are again taken up and cleaned. In the See also:store-See also:room they should be kept dry, well-aired and apart from each other. Few plants are better adapted than the hyacinth for pot culture as greenhouse decorative plants; and by the aid of forcing they may be had in bloom as See also:early as Christmas. They flower fairly well in 5-in. pots, the stronger bulbs in 6-in. pots. To bloom at Christmas, they should be potted early in September, in a compost resembling that already recommended for the open-See also:air beds; and, to keep up a succession of bloom, others should be potted at intervals of a few weeks till the See also:middle or end of See also:November. The tops of the bulbs should be about level with the soil, and if a little sand is put immediately around them so much the better. The pots should be set in an open place on a dry hard bed of ashes, and be covered over to a depth of 6 or 8 in. with the same material or with fibre or soil; and when the roots are well See also:developed, which will take from six to eight weeks, they may be removed to a See also:frame, and gradually exposed to light, and then placed in a forcing See also:pit in a heat of from 6o to 70°. When the flowers are fairly open, they may be removed to the See also:green-See also:house or conservatory. The hyacinth may be very successfully grown in glasses for See also:ornament in dwelling-houses. The glasses are filled to the See also:neck with See also:rain or even tap water, a few lumps of See also:charcoal being dropped into them. The bulbs are placed in the hollow provided for them, so that their base just touches the water. This may be done in September or October. They are then set in a dark See also:cupboard for a few weeks till roots are freely produced, and then gradually exposed to light. The early-flowering single white See also:Roman hyacinth, a small-growing pure white variety, remarkable for its fragrance, is well adapted for forcing, as it can be had in bloom if required by November. For windows it grows well in the small glasses commonly used for crocuses; and for decorative purposes should be planted about five bulbs in a 5-in. pot, or in pans holding a dozen each. If grown for cut flowers it can be planted thickly in boxes of any convenient size. It is highly esteemed during the See also:winter months by florists. The See also:Spanish hyacinth (H. amethystinus) and H. azureus are charming little bulbs for growing in masses in the See also:rock garden or front of the flower border. The older botanists included in the genus Hyacinthus See also:species of Muscari, Scilla and other genera of bulbous See also:Liliaceae, and the name of hyacinth is still popularly applied to several other bulbous plants. Thus Muscari botryoides is the See also:grape hyacinth, 6 in., blue or white, the handsomest; M. moschatum, the See also:musk hyacinth, so in., has See also:peculiar livid greenish-yellow flowers and a strong musky odour; M. comosum See also:var. monstrosum, the See also:feather hyacinth, bears sterile flowers broken up into a featherlike See also:mass; M. racemosum, the See also:starch hyacinth, is a native with deep blue See also:plum-scented flowers. The Cape hyacinth is Galtonia candicans, a magnificent border plant, 3-4 ft. high, with large drooping white See also:bell-shaped flowers; the See also:star hyacinth, Scilla amoena; the Peruvian hyacinth or Cuban See also:lily, S. peruviana, a native of the Mediterranean region, to which See also:Linnaeus gave the species name peruviana on a mistaken See also:assumption of its origin; the See also:wild hyacinth or blue-bell, known variously as See also:Endymion nonscriptum, Hyacinthus nonscriptus or Scilla nutans; the wild hyacinth of western See also:North Amercia, Camassia ,:.;culenta. Additional information and CommentsThere are no comments yet for this article.
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