STYLES OF See also:

• PRINTING (from Lat. imprimere, O. Fr. empreindre)

Mixture of iron and aluminium produce various tones of See also:

• CHOCOLATE

Pink. 62 gallons starch-tragacanth paste. „ blue shade alizarine (20 per cent. paste). „ sulphocyanide of alumina, 18° Tw. e acetate of lime, 28° Tw. oxalate of tin. citrate of alumina, 40° Tw. For reds and pinks the nitrate, sulphocyanide and citrate of alumina are generally preferred in practice to the acetate though the latter is also largely used. Oranges from ;alizarine orange are made similarly. See also:

• PURPLE

s „ acetic acid. 1 acetate of lime, 28° Tw. e I- acetate of iron, 24° Tw. Maroon. 51 gallons paste. I „ alizarine, 20 per cent. 4 „ acetate of chrome, 32° Tw. acetate of lime, 28° Tw. Blues and the other colours are made by leaving out the lime in the last See also:

• RECIPE

11 „ acetate of chrome, 400 Tw. Logwood and other natural colours are specially boiled. Logwood See also:

• BLACK
• BLACK, ADAM (1784-1874)
• BLACK, JEREMIAH SULLIVAN (1810–1883)
• BLACK, WILLIAM (1841-1898)

Quercitron Yellow. IZ gallons quercitron extract, 48° Tw. 61 , water. 11 lb starch. Boil, cool and add : gallon acetate of chrome, 3o° Tw. The proportions here given are liable to See also:

• VARIATIONS
• VARIATIONS, CALCULUS
• VARIATIONS, CALCULUS OF

Their application is simple. A solution of the colouring matter is added to the requisite quantity of starch paste or gum, and, when well mixed in, the See also:

• TANNIN, or TANNIC ACID

Basic colours may be printed along with " mordant " and albumen colours. (c) Application of Direct Dyeing Colours.—These colours have a natural See also:

• AFFINITY (Lat. affinitas, relationship by marriage, from offinis, bordering on, related to; finis, border, boundary)
• AFFINITY, CHEMICAL

(d) Application of Pigment Colours.—Before the introduction of See also:

• COAL

Even when finally ground they are liable to clog the engraving of the rollers—a defect which is more or less successfully overcome by replacing the colour-furnishing roller in the printing See also:

• MACHINE
• MACHINE (through Fr. from Lat. form machina of Gr. µnxavil)

The first and second processes depend upon the facts that indigo in presence of caustic alkalis may be converted into indigo-See also:

• WHITE
• WHITE, ANDREW DICKSON (1832– )
• WHITE, GILBERT (1720–1793)
• WHITE, HENRY KIRKE (1785-1806)
• WHITE, HUGH LAWSON (1773-1840)
• WHITE, JOSEPH BLANCO (1775-1841)
• WHITE, RICHARD GRANT (1822-1885)
• WHITE, ROBERT (1645-1704)
• WHITE, SIR GEORGE STUART (1835– )
• WHITE, SIR THOMAS (1492-1567)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM ARTHUR (1824--1891)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1845– )
• WHITE, THOMAS (1628-1698)
• WHITE, THOMAS (c. 1550-1624)

. . i; „ 4 Indigo 20 per cent. paste ,, ; to gals. to gals. to gals. The printed goods should be dried quickly, and " aged " as soon as possible to prevent the absorption of carbonic acid See also:

• GAS

Print, dry, " See also:

• AGE (Fr. age, through late Lat. aetaticum, from aetas)

(f) Insoluble Aso-Colours.—These colours do not exist as such, but require to be produced on the fibre itself from their components. They form a range of exceedingly fast colours, including orange, red, pink, maroon, brown, chocolate, blue and black, and are produced by the combination of various diazo-bodies with phenols, the most important of which latter is 0-naphthol (beta-naphthol). In practice their application is briefly as follows:—The bleached cloth is prepared in a solution of 0-naphthol in caustic soda (naphtholate of soda), then gently dried and printed with the thickened diazotized amine required to produce the desired shade. The printing colour must be cooled with ice to prevent its decomposition; hence such colours are sometimes known as " ice colours." The two colours most extensively used are See also:

• PARA
• PARA (officially BELEM; sometimes BELEM DO PARA)

Other See also:

• NAPHTHOLS, or HYDROXYNAPHTHALENES, C10H70H

Too „ ice. 1 See also:

• LOO (formerly called " Lanterloo," Fr. lanturlu, the refrain of a popular 17th-century song)

Print, dry and wash. Immediately these diazo-colour pastes come in contact with the naphthol-prepared cloth the colour itself is formed and fixed and requires no further treatment except that of washing to remove the naphthol from the unprinted parts of the cloth. The other bases are diazotized in precisely the same way, the quantities of acid and nitrite of soda being varied according to the molecular weights of each See also:

• BASE

1 50 , ,, See also:

• CHINA

A copper aniline black may be made as follows: ( 15 lb starch. j( 8 lb British gum or dextrine. 54 gals. water. 4 lb chlorate of soda. 4 gal. olive oil. Boil, cool and add : 8 lb aniline salt. 3 lb aniline oil. 5 lb sulphide of copper (precipitate pressed to a 30 per cent. paste). _1 gal. water. „ „ 400 25 75 I000 700 ,, This black may be either hung to develop, which is the safer course, or, if printed in See also:

• FINE

2 lb British gum. 6 tb yellow prussiate (ferrocyanide) of potash. 7 gals. water. Boil, turn off the steam, and add: 2; lb chlorate of soda in See also:

• POWDER (through O. Fr. puldre, modern poudre, from Lat. pulvis, pulveris, dust)

In this operation the " ageing " (which is really the volatilization of the acetic acid, leaving the hydrated oxide on the fibre) goes on slowly and evenly. After See also:

• HANGING

I Dark Purples. Violet. Black. Aluminium acetate, 6° Tw. i2 gals. 3 gals. toe gals. gal. ; gal. 8 gals. Black liquor, 24° Tw. Water .. 8 gals. .. 11 „ See also:

• ILI

36 lb .. .. 36 lb' Acetic acid al. . . .. . . Tin crystals 1 a lb '-- lb . Cotton-seed oil ; gal. .. ; gal. ; gal. ..

; gal. Starch 16 lb .. i6 lb 16 lb .. i6 lb the fastest colours are required. It may be conveniently divided into two branches: (a) the madder style, and (b) the printing of other mordants such as chrome, tannic acid, $-naphthol, &c. (a) The Madder Style.—In this style the only mordants used are those of aluminium and iron. Aluminium alone yields various shades of red and pink when dyed up in madder, or its artificial competitor alizarine. Iron alone yields with the same dye-stuffs shades varying from black to the palest See also:

• LAVENDER

If they are too basic they decompose on boiling, or on dilution, and become utterly useless; but this rarely happens nowadays and need not be further gone into. Many difficulties occur in the printing of mordants and their subsequent dyeing, but if the following points are observed most of them may be surmounted; (1) after printing the cloth must be gently dried, other-See also:

• WISE, HENRY ALEXANDER (1806-1876)
• WISE, ISAAC MAYER (1819-1900)

When about 700 yds. of cloth have been entered in this way the two ends of it are knotted together, thus forming an endless rope which circulates continuously in and out of the dye-liquor. The vat or beck is then charged with alizarine, chalk and glue, the proportions varying according to the amount of space covered by the mordants on the cloth. If, for instance, half the See also:

• SURFACE

t oz. chalk. ,i gal. water at 60° C. After washing they may be dyed up in any of the basic aniline colours. Various chrome mordants are employed in printing,, amongst which may be mentioned chromium chromate, and chromium acetate. The former is thickened with starch or gum, printed, and fixed by being passed through boiling sodium carbonate. The latter is applied in the same way but, after printing, is steamed before the carbonate treatment. Both these mordants are suitable for dyeing with any of the dyes mentioned under the direct printing of mordant colours, such as alizarine, alizarine bordeaux, coeruleine and the natural dye-wood extracts. They are dyed similarly to the madder colours, with an addition of glue size to preserve the white of the unprinted parts of the cloth. (3) The Discharge Style.—This style is now one of the most important produced. Its range is so extensive, and its modifications so numerous, that it is impossible to mention more than a few of its chief applications. It may be used for locally destroying either the colours dyed on cloth, or the mordants with which they have been previously prepared. In both cases the resulting pattern appears in white, or colours, on a full See also:

• RICH, BARNABE (c. 1540-1617)
• RICH, CLAUDIUS JAMES (1787-1821)
• RICH, JOHN (1692-1761)
• RICH, PENELOPE, LADY (c. 1562–1607)
• RICH, RICHARD, 1ST BARON RICH (1490?-1567)

The discharging agents consist of organic acids, caustic alkalis, oxidizing agents and reducing agents, each used according to the See also:

• KIND (O. E. ge-cynde, from the same root as is seen in " kin," supra)

Examples: White. 6 lb citric acid or tartaric acid. t gal. water. 4 lb British gum or dextrine. Boil together. Yellow. 15 lb British gum. 11 gals. dark British gum paste, 30 per cent. , water. 20 lb tartaric acid. 12 lb nitrate of lead. Print, dry, dischage through bleaching powder solution, 18' I'w., and chrome.

(e) The dyed cloth is printed with strongly alkaline discharge pastes, passed through the " ager " two or three times, and then washed off in silicate of soda. If blue, yellow and green discharges are desired the dyed cloth must first be passed through glucose solution, well dried, printed with the colours, " aged," passed through silicate of soda, chromed in bichromate, well washed and dried. Examples: White. to lb stannous chloride dissolved cold in 8 gals. alkaline thickening. 2 ,, silicate of soda, 70° Tw. Blue. 15 lb indigo pure 20 per cent. paste. A. gal. turpentine. A „ glycerin. 1 „ British gum paste. 7 „ alkaline thickening. Green. 8 parts of the yellow without silicate.

1 part of blue. (f) Paranitraniline red is discharged by means of the new hydrosulphite-formaldehyde compounds. The dyed cloth is printed with the following: 25 lb hydrosulphite N.F. conc., or hydraldite conc. 11 gals. British gum paste. See also:

• HEAT (0. E. haktu, which like " hot," Old Eng. hat, is from the Teutonic type haita, hit, to be hot; cf. Ger. hitze, heiss; Dutch, hitte, heet, &c.)

For this purpose the dyed cloth is printed in two different ways. Firstly, with chlorate of soda, and red or yellow prussiate of potash together with a little citric acid or citrate of soda; secondly, with chromate of potash. In the first instance, the cloth is " aged " through the rapid ager after printing, and, in the second, is passed through a vat containing hot sulphuric acid and oxalic acid. Coloured discharges may be obtained in both methods by adding albumen and pigment colours to the discharging agents. (1) Discharge by steaming: {12 lb citric acid, dissolve in: 7 lb caustic soda, 70° Tw., and add: 12 lb sodium chlorate. 5 gals. British gum paste. Heat till dissolved, cool and add : 1 gals. British gum paste. 2 lb yellow prussiate of potash. Print, steam and wash. Chlorate of aluminium is also used for this process, but it acts very energetically and is apt to See also:

• TENDER

(2) Chromate discharge: White. 82 gals. British gum paste. 12 lb bichromate of soda. a gal. turpentine. Yellow. 32 lb chrome yellow pigment. 3 gals. 50 per cent. albumen solution. thick tragacanth mucilage. „ oil (See also:

• VEGETABLE

a ,, water. Print, dry, pass through a " beck " (i.e. a bath) containing:—too gals. water. 50 lb sulphuric acid (168° Tw.). 50 lb oxalic acid. Then well wash and dry. With these oxidation discharges it is impossible to prevent the fibre being attacked in the discharged portions, with the result that it is partially converted into oxycellulose. Recently a method has been brought out for the production of a white discharge on indigo which is said to do away with the formation of oxycellulose and which consists in printing on a thickened solution of sodium nitrate and, after drying, running through sulphuric acid of 50° Tw. Another method of producing white discharges on indigo consists in printing the dyed cloth with hydrosulphite N.F., then steaming and running through a boiling solution of caustic soda. Good whites are thus obtained without the formation of oxycellulose, but the process is expensive. (h) Direct dyeing or substantive colours can be easily discharged with the hydrosulphite discharge used for paranitraniline red (see above). It must be reduced in strength to about one-See also:

• FOURTH

They are effected by means of stannous chloride, colours being obtained by the addition of basic dyes and dyewood extracts. (j) Sulphur-colours, dyed basic colours, and some alizarine colours, are discharged with chlorate and prussiate like indigo. (4) The Resist or Reserve Style.—Reserves are substances which, when printed, prevent the fixation or development of mordants and colours subsequently applied, and are used to produce effects similar to those obtained by discharge printing. The See also:

• PRINCIPAL

(a) Reserves under Aluminium and Iron Mordants.—For the production of this important class of goods, use is made of the fact that alkaline citrates prevent the fixation of the mordants. The cloth is first printed with citrate of soda (or sometimes citric and tartaric acids for iron mordants), then dried, and again printed over the previous impression, with either a fine "all over " pattern or See also:

• FLAT (a modification of O. Eng. flet, an obsolete word of Teutonic origin, meaning the ground beneath the feet)

The goods are first prepared in alizarine oil and then printed with the following: lo lb china clay. 2 gal. citrate of soda, 54° Tw. „ citrate of chromium, 42° Tw. water. z ,. 21 „ British gum paste. Blue. Yellow. Green. Pink. New methylene blue N. . 2 See also:

• ALB (Lat. alba, from albus, white)

(B.A.S.F.) . . .. 2 lb I4 „ 2 gals. Brilliant green .. 2 gals. 2 gals. 2z lb Theoflavine T. . . 2 gals. 22 lb 2y lb IO Rhodamine 6 G. (extra) . 2i lb IO IO „ 2 gals.

Acetic acid IO I a gals. 2 gals. I „ Citric acid 2 gals. I ,, I „ 2 , Starch I , 2 20 lb 20 lb Water . . . I2 „ 20 lb Tragacanth mucilage . 20 lb Tannic acid sol., 50 per cent, . Tin crystals Make up to . . lo gals. lo gals. Io gals. to gals, [TECHNOLOGY After printing the above, the goods are dried and again printed either with " cover " or " pad " or both, in alizarine pink, dried, steamed for i hrs., well washed and soaped. On leaving the steamer the parts printed with the resist are yellow, but become quite white on soaping. Like the purples, the alizarine pinks can be reserved in colours.

For blue, green, yellow and violet the See also:

• ORDINARY (med. Lat. ordinarius, Fr. ordinaire)

(c) Reserves under Insoluble Azo-Colours.—These are based upon the action of stannous chloride, which prevents the combination between the $-naphthol and the diazo bodies by reducing the latter to hydrazines. The 0-naphthol prepared cloth is printed with the following colours, then dried and passed through diazotized solutions of paranitraniline for red grounds; a-naphthylamine for maroon; ortho-nitrotoluidine for orange, &c., &c. The cloth is then washed and soaped until the " ` whites " are clean. White Resist. 5 gals. gum See also:

• SENEGAL

20 lb sodium tartar emetic. 20 lb zinc sulphate. All boiled well together, and then covered, or over-printed, with any steam basic colour—steamed one hour, passed through tartar emetic, then washed and soaped, when the reserve white above comes away, bringing along with it the colour printed upon it and leaving a white pattern on a printed ground. (e) Reserves under Vat Indigo Blue.—This was formerly a very important style, but at present is only used in special cases. Resist or reserve effects are obtained by printing the white cloth with oxidizing agents, &c., and subsequently dyeing it in the indigo vat. In addition to oxidizing agents the reserve pastes contain lead sulphate, See also:

• BARIUM (symbol Ba, atomic weight 137'37 [0=16])

2; gals. British gum paste. 33 lb lead sulphate, 66 per cent. paste. 18 lb zinc sulphate. 22 lb lead nitrate. Print the white and yellow, dry, dye in the indigo vat—sour slightly in sulphuric acid, wash, and pass into a hot solution of bichromate of soda, which develops the lead yellow. Reserve whites also contain lead salts when used for white alone, but obviously the white given is best suited to white and yellow reserves, as its soluble copper salts wash out before the " chroming " stage is reached. (f) Reserves under Sulphur Colours.—These are obtained with zinc chloride. They are not much used, but are capable of yielding fine effects. (g) Reserves under Aniline Black.—Reserves under aniline black are produced with caustic alkalis, alkaline See also:

• CARBONATES

72 lb aniline hydrochloride. 31 lb sodium chlorate. 4 lb potassium ferrocyanide-10 gals. water. It is then very carefully dried in hot air so that it becomes no darker than a pale yellow; if it is green before printing, the white is sure to be See also:

• BAD, BCD

15 lb soda acetate. lo lb bisulphite of soda, 66° Tw. lb ultramarine blue. Boil together. Print on the padded cloth, age, chrome and wash. The resist paste is as under: Resist Paste. lo lb zinc oxide. 11 gals. See also:

• MAGNESIUM [symbol Mg, atomic weight 24.32 (0 = 16)]

Very good results can be obtained by the alternative method, i.e. printing the resists on white cloth and applying the black afterwards. The basic colours are chiefly used, though chrome yellow and ultramarine are also employed for some styles. The following formulae will serve as types of the composition of white and colours: White. 20 lb precipitated chalk. 5 lb potassium sulphite, 90° Tw. 5 Ib acetate of soda. z lb ultramarine blue for sightening. I gal. water. 6 „ starch paste. The whole ground together in a mill. Colour. {2 lb basic dye-stuff.

I gal. water. 24 ,, starch paste. 17 lb zinc oxide. I gal. water. „ glycerin. turpentine. „ bisulphite of soda. L 3 „ starch paste. Print on white cloth, allow to lie a day or two, then slop-pad in the Prud homme black already given, dry, age, chrome and soap. Pigment colours may be applied on black padded cloth as follows Yellow. 40 lb chrome yellow, &c. &c.

22 gals. 40 per cent. albumen. 2 2 , tragacanth water, 6 oz. per gal. 6 lb soda ash. 1 gal. citrate of soda, 40° Tw. Other methods, varying in detail, have been used from time to time, but the above two are at the present time generally employed —especially the former, by which many fine patterns have been produced in all sorts of delicate and See also:

• ARTISTIC