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COLLAR

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Originally appearing in Volume V06, Page 685 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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COLLAR , something worn or fastened See also:

round the See also:neck (See also:Lat. collare, from collum, neck), particularly a See also:band of See also:linen, See also:lace or other material, which, under various shapes at different periods, has been worn by men and See also:women to serve as a completion or finish to the neckband of a garment (see See also:COSTUME); also a See also:chain, worn as a See also:personal See also:ornament, a badge of See also:livery, a See also:symbol of See also:office, or as See also:part of the insignia of an See also:order of See also:knighthood, an application of the See also:term with which the See also:present See also:article deals. The word is also applied to that part of the See also:draught-See also:harness of a See also:horse which fits over the See also:animal's neck, to which the traces are attached, and against which the See also:strain of the See also:drawing of the vehicle is exercised, and to a circular piece of See also:metal passed round the See also:joints of a See also:rod or See also:pipe, to prevent See also:movement or to make the See also:joint See also:steam- or See also:water-tight. Necklaces with beads and jewels threaded thereon or the See also:plain laces with a See also:hanging ornament are among the See also:common braveries of all times and countries. From these come the collar and the neck-chain. Torques or See also:twisted collars of metal are found in burying-places of the barbarous See also:people of See also:northern See also:Europe. See also:British chiefs wore them, and See also:gold torques were around the necks of the leaders of the first of the Saxon invaders of See also:Britain, among whose descendants, however, the See also:fashion seems to have languished. See also:Edward the See also:Confessor was buried with a neck-chain of gold 2 ft. See also:long, fastened with a jewelled locket and carrying an enamelled crucifix. The extravagant See also:age of See also:Richard II. saw a See also:great revival of the neck-chain, heavy links twisted of gold or See also:silver. From this See also:time onward neck chains, with or without See also:pendant devices, were commonly worn by men and women of the richer sort. The men abandoned them in the time of See also:Charles I. Closely allied to the chain are the livery collars which appeared in the 14th See also:century, worn by those who thus displayed their alliances or their fealty. Thus Charles V. of See also:France in 1378 granted to his See also:chamberlain See also:Geoffrey de See also:Belleville the right of bearing in all feasts and in all companies the collar of the Cosse de Geneste or Broomcod, a collar which was accepted and worn even by the See also:English See also:kings, Charles VI. sending such collars to Richard II. and to his three uncles.

This See also:

French collar, a chain of couples of See also:broom-cods linked by jewels, is seen in the contemporary portrait of Richard II. at See also:Wilton. The like collar was worn by See also:Henry IV. on the way to his crowning. During the sitting of the English See also:parliament in 1394 the complaints of the See also:earl of See also:Arundel against Richard II. are recorded, one of his grievances being that the See also:king was wont to See also:wear the livery of the collar of the See also:duke of See also:Lancaster, his See also:uncle, and that people of the king's following wore the same livery. To which the king answered that soon after the return from See also:Spain (in 1389) of his uncle, the said duke, he himself took the collar from his uncle's neck, putting it on his own, which collar the king would wear and use for a sign of the See also:good and whole-hearted love between them, even as he wore the liveries of his other uncles. Livery collars of the king of France, of See also:Queen See also:Anne and of the See also:dukes of See also:York and Lancaster are numbered with the royal See also:plate and jewels which in the first See also:year of Henry IV. had come to the king's hands. The See also:inventory shows that Queen Anne's collar, was made up of sprigs of See also:rosemary garnished with pearls. The York collar had falcons and fetterlocks, and the Lancaster collar was doubtless that collar of Esses (or S S) used by the duke's son, Henry of See also:Bolingbroke, as an earl, duke and king. This famous livery collar, which has never passed out of use, takes many forms, its Esses being sometimes linked together chainwise, and sometimes, in See also:early examples, bestowed as the ornamental bosses of a garter-shaped strap-collar. The See also:oldest effigy bearing it is that in Spratton See also:church of See also:Sir See also:John Swinford, who died in 1371. Swinford was a follower of John of Gaunt, and the date of his See also:death easily disposes of the See also:fancy that the Esses were devised by Henry IV. to stand for his See also:motto or " word " of Soverayne. Many explanations are given of the origin of these letters, but none has as yet been established with sufficient See also:proof. During the reigns of Henry IV., his son and See also:grandson, the collar of Esses was a royal badge of the Lancastrian See also:house and party, the See also:white See also:swan being its pendant.

In one of Henry VI.'s own collars the S was joined to the Broomcod of the French See also:

device, thus symbolizing the king's claim to the two kingdoms. The kings of the house of York and their See also:chief followers wore the Yorkist collar of suns and See also:roses, with the white See also:lion of See also:March, the See also:Clare See also:bull, or Richard's white See also:boar for a pendant device. Henry VII. brought back the collar of Esses, a See also:portcullis or a See also:rose hanging from it, although in a portrait of this king, now possessed by the Society of Antiquaries, his neck bears the rose en soleil alternating with knots, and his son, when See also:young, had a collar of roses red and white. Besides these royal collars, the 14th and 15th centuries show many of private devices. A See also:brass at See also:Mildenhall shows a See also:knight whose badge of a See also:dog or See also:wolf circled by a See also:crown hangs from a collar with edges suggesting a pruned bough or the ragged See also:staff. See also:Thomas of Markenfield (d. c. 1415) on his brass at See also:Ripon has a See also:strange collar of See also:park palings with a badge of a See also:hart in a park, and the See also:Lord See also:Berkeley (d. 1392) wears one set with mermaids. Collars of various devices are now worn by the See also:grand crosses of the See also:European orders of knighthood. The See also:custom was begun by See also:Philip of See also:Burgundy, who gave his knights of the See also:Golden Fleece, an order founded on the loth of See also:February 1429-1430, badges of a golden fleece hung from that collar of flints, steels and See also:sparks which is seen in so many old Flemish portraits. To this See also:day it remains the most beautiful of all the collars, keeping in the See also:main the lines of its Flemish designer, although a vulgar fancy sometimes destroys the symbolism of the golden fleece by changing it for an unmeaning fleece of diamonds. Following this new fashion, See also:Louis XI. of France, when instituting his order of St See also:Michael in 1469, gave the knights collars of scallop shells linked on a chain.

The chain was doubled by Charles VIII., and the See also:

pattern suffered other changes before the order lapsed in 183o. Until the reign of Henry VIIL, the Garter, most See also:ancient of the great knightly orders, had no collar. But the Tudor king must needs match in all things with See also:continental sovereigns, and the present collar of the Garter knights, with its golden knots and its buckled garters enclosing white roses set on red roses, has its origin in the Tudor age.

End of Article: COLLAR

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COLLATERAL (from Med. Lat. collateralis,—cum, wit...