I00 .O It is said to be a most complex See also:

• BODY

The surface of a fleece has usually a thick washin coating of dirt, and in the See also:

• CASE
• CASE, JOHN (d. 1600)

Yield per cent of Clean Wool. Australian Merino 5o% Cape 48 % See also:

• SOUTH
• SOUTH, ROBERT (1634–1716)

The last three are short and not commonly used in the worsted trade. The greater proportion of good English See also:

• LONG, GEORGE (1800-1879)
• LONG, JOHN DAVIS (1838– )

The washing which a fleece may have received on the live sheep is not sufficient for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer. On the careful and See also:

• COMPLETE

The mechanical arrangements of the machines are such as to ensure the passage of the wool without undue lifting and " stringing," to obviate the mixing of wool grease, sand, dirt, &c., once taken out of the wool with that wool again, to give See also:

• TIME (0. Eng. Lima, cf. Icel. timi, Swed. timme, hour, Dan. time; from the root also seen in " tide," properly the time of between the flow and ebb of the sea, cf. O. Eng. getidan, to happen, " even-tide," &c.; it is not directly related to Lat. tempus)
• TIME, MEASUREMENT OF
• TIME, STANDARD

It is interesting to See also:

• NOTE
• NOTE (Lat. nota, mark, sign, from noscere, to know)

The wool is introduced by a continuous feed at one side of the chamber; the strength of the blast carries it up and deposits it on the upper shelf, and by the action of the movable bars, which are worked by cranks, it is carried forward to the opposite end, whence it drops to the next lower shelf, and so on it travels till at the extremity of the lower shelf it passes out by the delivery lattice well and equally dried. Another drying machine in extensive use is what is known as the " Jumbo Dryer." This consists of a large revolving See also:

• CYLINDER (Gr. KvAwSpos, from KvXivaety, to roll)

For certain classes of wool, notably Buenos Aires, still another preparing operation is essential at this See also:

• STAGE (Fr. 6/age; from Lat. stare, to stand)

The burrs to obtain a cheap blend which may be spun into a satisfactory warp fall on a grating and are ejected, with a certain amount of wool ad- or weft See also:

• YARN

If wool and cotton are blended and may now be manipulated with the idea of converting it together the wool must be oiled first, or the blend will not work to the worsteds. into See also:

• FELT (cognate with Ger. Filz, Du. vilt, Swed. and Dan. fill; the root is unknown; the word has given Med. Lat. filtrum, " filter ")

8.—Sectional View of Carder; illustrating the principles of carding. menu- blending, teasing, carding (two facture. or three operations), condensing and roving. Spinning venient handles, covered with teeth or card clothing, serving as a upon the woollen mule completes the series of operations means of teasing out See also:

• LOCK (from the O. Eng. loc.; the word appears, in different forms, in many Teutonic languages, but with such various meanings as " hole," Ger. Loch, " lid," Swed. lock, &c.; probably the original was a root meaning " to enclose ")
• LOCK, MATTHIAS

To-day, however, with the " tape " condensers, such fine the running of the teeth of the various cylinders actually into one slivers can be turned off the See also:

• CONDENSER

The first essential for Thus from beginning to end of a machine the workers are set closer blending is that the materials to be blended should be fairly finely and closer to the swift, so that the last worker only allows come divided. This is effected by passing each material, if necessary, pletely carded wool to pass it. Immediately on passing the last through the willow or through the " fearnaught "—a machine coming worker F' the wool is brushed up on the surface of the swift by the between the willow and card—prior to beginning the "blend-stack." " See also:

• FANCY (a shortened form, dating from the 15th century, of " fantasy," which is derived through the O. Fr. fantasie, modern fantaisie. from the Latinized form of the Gr. cbavraoia, Oavrai'ecv, Oat Pais, to show)

The con-denser is usually a one-swifted card, the only difference in principle being that, whereas the sliver comes out of the scribbler or inter-mediate in one broad film, it is broken up into a number of small continuous slivers or films, each one of which will ultimately be drafted or See also:

• DRAWN

When the carriage has perhaps completed half its See also:

• TRAVERSE

The wool is " made up " on the feed sheet and on emerging from the front rollers is built up layer by layer into the See also:

• LAP

Firstly, there is the preparing and spinning of the true worsted thread, this being made from long English and colonial wool. In this class should also be included mohair and alpaca. Secondly, there is the preparing and spinning of what are known as cross-bred and botany yarns, these being made from cross-bred and botany wools. Thirdly, there is the preparing and spinning of short botany wools on the See also:

• FRENCH
• FRENCH, DANIEL CHESTER (1850– )
• FRENCH, NICHOLAS (1604-1678)

The fourth gill-box delivers into cans instead of on to a sheet. A number of cans are then placed behind the fifth box and the slivers from these fed up into the back rollers, and similarly with the See also:

• SIXTH

should be clean, fairly straight and in good condition for combing. Their condition may be further improved by passing them through one or two more gill-boxes, prior to combing, to ensure straightness of fibre and even See also:

• DISTRIBUTION (Lat. distribuere, to deal out)

The Lister or " nip " comb is specially suitable for long wools and mohair and alpaca. The See also:

• HOLDEN, HUBERT ASHTON (1822-1896)
• HOLDEN, SIR ISAAC, BART

Rollers C, C' must pull the sliver somewhat severely, hence roller C' is covered with leather. The yarn delivered by the front rollers is slightly twisted and wound into a double-headed bobbin of convenient size on the " flyer-system." they naturally begin to separate, combing the wool fibres between them, the short fibres or " noil " being retained in the teeth of both small and large circles, the long fibres See also:

• HANGING

13 and 14, they consist of back and front rollers with small carrying-rollers—not gills—to support the wool in between. Thus an English set of drawing usually consists of a single-can gill-box, a double-can gill-box, a two-spindle gill-box, a four-spindle drawing-box, a four-spindle weigh-box, a six-spindle drawing-box, two six-spindle finishers and three See also:

• THIRTY

Drafting takes place as usual between the back and front rollers, the carriers controlling the yarn between the two. On emerging from the front rollers the yarn usually passes through an eyelet, to centre it over the centre of the spindle; it then takes a turn or two round the flyer See also:

• LEG
• LEG (a word of Scandinavian origin, from the Old Norwegian leggr, cf. Swed. lagg, Dan. laeg; the O. Eng. word was sceanca, shank)

The largest combers of botany wools, Messrs See also:

• ISAAC (Hebrew for " he laughs," on explanatory references to the name, see ABRAHAM)

The speed of the bobbin is suitably retarded by spindle See also:

• FINISHING

17)—a frame in which the bobbin, resting upon a fixed spindle, is itself driven at say 5000 revolutions per minute to put in the twist, while the friction of the yarn on the cap which covers the bobbin enables the bobbin to wind up upon itself the yarn as delivered by the front rollers. The weakness and the strength of the cap frame is that to make reasonably hard bobbins the bobbins must be driven at a high speed. The French are noted for a special system of worsted spinning, which, pro-French • ducing soft botany yarns of a drawing marked type, is worthy of and more than passing comment. spinning. The preparation is very similar to the preparation of botany yarns for the English system save that as a rule the See also:

• ORDER
• ORDER (through Fr. ordre, for earlier ordene, from Lat. ordo, ordinis, rank, service, arrangement; the ultimate source is generally taken to be the root seen in Lat. oriri, rise, arise, begin; cf. " origin ")
• ORDER, HOLY

What the real advantage is it is difficult to say, but the mule-spun worsted yarn trade is becoming yearly of more importance, and it is pleasing to note that English spinners are at last doing a fair See also:

• SHARE (O. Eng. scearu, chiefly in compounds, e.g. land-scearu, a share of land, from sceran to cut; cf. " shear" )

To-day, processes. however, cloths are made, ranging from the truest woollen to the typical worsted, of which it would be impossible to indicate the type of yarn employed without very careful See also:

• ANALYSIS (Gr. avci and Meta, to break up into parts)

The cloth is now taken in a See also:

• DAMP

After pressing dry steaming is frequently necessary to take away cakiness and a certain false lustre which some-times develops. Final cuttling completes the finishing operations. Worsted cloth finishing is very similar to woollen cloth finishing save that some of the operations are less severe. Mending, scouring, worsted milling and tentering are similar. The raising as a rule is cloth effected by brushing, although it is by no means unfinishing. common to raise worsteds on the gig. Cropping, crabbing, pressing and steaming are the same as for woollen fabrics. Of course the real difference between the woollen and the worsted cloth is due to the selection of the right material, to correct roving, spinning and fabric structure: finishing simply comes as a " developer " in the case of the woollen fabric, while in the case of the typical worsted fabric it simply serves as a " clearer," the cloth really being made in the loom. A woollen cloth as it leaves the loom is unsightly and in a sense may be said to be made in the finishing, although it is truer to say " developed " in the finishing: in the case of the worsted cloth it is altogether otherwise. A cotton warp, lustre weft See also:

• STYLE
• STYLE (from Gr. a-6'1ms, a column; a different word from that used in literature, see below)

Thus,for instance, the finishing of an " See also:

• ITALIAN

Thus amazons are made from mule-spun worsted warp and a woollen weft. Lustres are made from fine hard spun cotton warp and English or mohair weft, and so on. Perhaps the most interesting point to note is the skill developed by English de-signers during See also:

• RECENT

For further details see See also:

• HOOPER, JOHN (d. 1555)

(A. F. B.) Imports of Wool into the United Kingdom from the Principal Countries, See also:

• FOREIGN

New South Wales Bales .. .. 248,408 240,922 308,628 See also:

• QUEENSLAND

17,870 189,441 395,693 394,390 442,973 Cape and See also:

• NATAL

.. 4,700 28,784 34,903 53,249 Italian and See also:

• TRIESTE (Ger. Triest; Slay. Trst; the Roman Tergeste, q.v.)

22 164 92 to 92 72 61'b 6 111 Alpaca . 33-35 13-154 122-142 22-141 142-27 16-13 122-16 154-192 152-17$ Mohair . 35-45 27-35-21 14-19 18-134 I4-3o 202-17 19-17 15 132-16 1 Year of the highest values of wools ever reached within recent times. 2 Years of the lowest values of wools ever reached within recent times. See also:

• SUMMARY

.. .. .. .. .. 900 Woollen carding sets 6,700 Worsted combing machines . 1,038 1,276 .. . .. 2,924 Spinning spindles . 6,455,879 5,449,495 5,375,102 5,604,535 • • 5,625,477 Doubling spindles . 519,629 558,914 769,492 969,812 .. 1,059,049 Power looms .

118,875 140,274 139,902 131,506 . 104,514 See also:

• CHILDREN, LAW RELATING TO

2,397,600 1,593,100 8,937,100 Noils 10,234,700 7,897,400 12,689,700 Tops .. 9,016,000 28,031,200 35,580,000 Worsted Yarn . .. 29,840,300 39,510,100 56,075,900 55,521,700 Mohair, &c., Yarn . .. 8,752,200 12,959,600 10,397,700 17,782,800 Woollen Yarn . .. 1,992,400 1,572,700 1,088,300 2,576,100 Cloths . .. £18,768,634 £20,418,482 £15,682,154 £22,153,680 See also:

• APPAREL (from O. Fr. aparail, aparailler, mod. appareil, from Low Lat. adpariculare, to make fit. or equal)