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BUCKINGHAMSHIRE (abbreviated Bucks)

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Originally appearing in Volume V04, Page 731 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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BUCKINGHAMSHIRE (abbreviated Bucks) a See also:south midland See also:county of See also:England, bounded N. by See also:Northamptonshire, E. by See also:Bedfordshire, Hertfordishire and See also:Middlesex, S_ for a See also:short distance by See also:Surrey, and by See also:Berkshire, and W. by See also:Oxfordshire. Its See also:area is 943.2 sq. m. The county is divided between the basins of the See also:rivers See also:Ouse and See also:Thames. The first in its uppermost course forms See also:part of the See also:north-western boundary, passes the towns of See also:Buckingham, Stony See also:Stratford, See also:Wolverton, See also:Newport Pagnell and See also:Olney, and before quitting the county forms a short stretch of the north-eastern boundary. The See also:principal tributary it receives within the county is the Ouzel. The Thames forms the entire See also:southern boundary; and of its tributaries Buckinghamshire includes the upper part of the Thames. To the north-See also:west of Buckingham, and both See also:east and west of the Ouzel, the See also:land rises in See also:gentle undulations to a height of nearly 500 ft., and north of the Thames valley a few nearly isolated hills stand boldly, such as See also:Brill See also:Hill and Muswell Hill, each over 600 ft., but the hilliest 1 Until 1784, when See also:George See also:Grenville, See also:Earl See also:Temple, was created See also:marquess of Buckingham, the 2nd earl of Buckinghamshire always signed himself " Buckingham "; his contemporaries knew him by this name, and hence a certain amount of confusion has arisen. part of the county is the south, which is occupied by part of the Chiltem See also:system, the See also:general direction of which is from south-west to north-east. The See also:crest-See also:line of these hills crosses the county at its narrowest point, along a line, above the towns of See also:Prince's Risborough and See also:Wendover, not exceeding 11 m. in length. This line divides the county into two parts of quite different See also:physical See also:character; for to the south almost the whole land is hilly (the longer slope of the Chiltern system lying in this direction), well wooded, and pleasantly diversified with narrow vales. The See also:chief of these are watered by the Wye, Misbourne and See also:Chess streams. The See also:beech See also:tree is predominant in the See also:woods, in so much that See also:William See also:Camden, See also:writing c.

1585, supposed the county to take name from this feature (A.S. boc, beech). In the south a remnant of See also:

ancient See also:forest is preserved as public ground under the name of Burnham Beeches. The Chilterns reach a height of nearly 900 ft. within the county. See also:Geology.—The See also:northern See also:half of the county is occupied by See also:Jurassic strata, in the southern half Cretaceous rocks predominate except in the south-eastern corner, where they are covered by See also:Tertiary beds. Thus the See also:oldest rocks are in the north, succeeded continuously by younger strata to the south ; the general See also:dip of all the rocks is south-easterly. A few patches of Upper See also:Lias See also:Clay appear near the northern boundary near See also:Grafton Regis and See also:Castle See also:Thorpe, and again in the valley of the Ouse near Stoke Geldington and See also:Weston Underwood. The Oolitic See also:series is represented by the See also:Great Oolite, with limestones in the upper part, much quarried for See also:building stones at See also:Westbury, Thornborough, See also:Brock, Whittlewood Forest, &c.; the See also:lower portions are more argillaceous. The Forest See also:Marble is seen about See also:Thornton as a thin See also:bed of clay with an See also:oyster-bearing See also:limestone at the See also:base. Next above is the See also:Cornbrash, a series of rubbly and occasionally hard limestones and thin See also:clays. The outcrop runs by Tingwick, Buckingham, Berehampton and Newport Pagnell, it is quarried at Wolverton and elsewhere for road See also:metal. lnliers of these rocks occur at See also:Marsh See also:Gibbon and Stan Hill. The See also:Oxford Clay and Kimmeridge Clay, with the See also:Gault, See also:lie in the vale of See also:Aylesbury. The clay is covered by numerous outliers of See also:Portland, Purbeck and Lower See also:Greensand beds.

The Portland beds are sandy below, calcareous above; the outcrop follows the normal direction in the county, from south-west to north-east, from Thame through Aylesbury; they are quarried at several places for building See also:

stone and fossils are abundant. The Hartwell Clay is in the Lower Portland. See also:Freshwater Purbeck beds lie below the Portland and Lower See also:Green-See also:sand beds; they cap the See also:ridge between Oving and See also:Whitchurch. See also:Glass-making sands have been worked from the Lower Greensand at Hartwell, and phosphatic nodules from the same beds at Brickhill as well as from the Gault at Towersey. A broad See also:band of Gault, a bluish clay, extends from Towersey across the county in a north-easterly direction. Resting upon the Gault is the Upper Greensand; at the junction of the two formations numerous springs arise, a circumstance which has no doubt determined the site of several villages. The See also:Chalk rises abruptly from the See also:low lying argillaceous See also:plain to See also:form the Chiltern Hills. The form of the whole of the hilly See also:district See also:round See also:Chesham, High See also:Wycombe and the Chalfonts is determined by the Chalk. See also:Reading beds, mottled clays and sands, repose upon the Chalk at See also:Woburn, Barnham, Fulmer and See also:Denham, and these are in turn covered by the See also:London Clay, which is exposed on the slopes about Stoke See also:Common and Iver. Between the Tertiary-capped Chalk See also:plateau and the Thames, a gentler slope, covered with alluvial See also:gravel and See also:brick See also:earth, reaches down to the See also:river. Thick deposits of plateau gravel See also:cover most of the high ground in the southern corner of the county, while much of the northern part is obscured by glacial clays and gravels. See also:Industries.—The agricultural capacities of the See also:soil vary greatly in different localities.

On the lower lands, especially in the Vale of Aylesbury, about the headwaters of the Thame, it is extremely fertile; while on the hills it is usually poor and thin. The See also:

pro-portion of cultivated land is high, being about 83 % of the whole. Of this a large and growing portion is in permanent pasture; See also:cattle and See also:sheep being reared in great See also:numbers for the London markets, to which also are sent quantities of ducks, for which the district round Aylesbury is famous. See also:Wheat and oats are the principal See also:grain crops, though both decrease in importance. Turnips and swedes for the cattle are the chief green crops; and See also:dairy-farming is largely practised. There is no general manufacturing See also:industry, but a considerable amount of See also:lace-making and See also:straw-plaiting is carried on locally; and at High Wycombe and in its neighbourhood there is a thriving See also:trade in various articles of turnery, such as chairs and See also:bowls, from beech and other hard woods. The introduction of lace-making in this and neighbouring counties is attributed to Flemish, and later to729 See also:French immigrants, but also to Catharine of See also:Aragon during her See also:residence (c. 1532) at See also:Ampthill. Down to the later part of the. 19th See also:century a general See also:holiday celebrated by lace-makers on the 25th of See also:November was known as " Cattarn's See also:Day." Communications.—The See also:main line of the London & North-Western railway crosses the north-east part of the county. Bletchley is an important junction on this system, branches diverging east to Fenny Stratford, See also:Bedford and See also:Cambridge, and west to Oxford and See also:Banbury, Buckingham being served by the western See also:branch. There is also a branch from Cheddington to Aylesbury.

The See also:

Metropolitan-Great Central See also:joint line serves See also:Amersham, Chesham (by a branch), and Aylesbury, joining the North-Western Oxford branch at See also:Verney Junction; this line is used by the Great Central railway, the main line of which continues north-westward from Quainton Road. A See also:light railway connects this station with the large See also:village of Brill to the south-west. The Great Central and the Great Western companies jointly own a line passing through See also:Beaconsfield, High Wycombe, and Prince's Risborough, which is connected northward with the Great Central system. Before the opening of this line in 1906 the Great Western branch from See also:Maidenhead to Oxford was the only line serving High Wycombe and Prince's Risborough, from which there are branches to Watlington and Aylesbury. The main line of this See also:company crosses the extreme south of the county by See also:Slough and Taplow. The See also:Grand Junction See also:Canal, reaching the valley of the Ouse by way of the Ouzel valley from the south, has branches to Aylesbury and to Buckingham. Except the Thames none of the rivers in the county is continuously navigable. See also:Population and See also:Administration.—The area of the ancient county is 475,682 acres, with a population in 1891 of 185,284, and in 1901 of 195,764. The area of the administrative county is 479,358 acres. The county contains eight hundreds, of which. three, namely Stoke, Burnham and See also:Desborough, form the " Chiltern Hundreds " (q.v.). The See also:hundred of Aylesbury retains its ancient designation of the " three hundreds of Aylesbury." The municipal boroughs are Buckingham, the county See also:town (pop. 3152), and Wycombe, officially Chepping Wycombe, also Chipping or High Wycombe (15,542).

The other See also:

urban districts are Aylesbury (9243), Beaconsfield (1570), Chesham (7245), See also:Eton (3301), Fenny Stratford (4799), Linslade, on the Ouzel opposite to See also:Leighton See also:Buzzard in Bedfordshire (2157), See also:Marlow (4526), Newport Pagnell (4028), Slough (11,453). Among the lesser See also:market towns may be mentioned Amersham (2674), Ivinghoe (8o8), Olney (2684), Prince's Risborough (2189), Stony Stratford (2353), Wendover (2009) and See also:Winslow (1703). At Wolverton (5323) are the See also:carriage See also:works of the London & North-Western railway. Several of the villages on and near the See also:banks of the Thames have become centres of residence, such as Taplow, Cookham and See also:Bourne End, Burnham and Wooburn. Buckinghamshire is in the midland See also:circuit, and assizes are held at Aylesbury. It has one See also:court of See also:quarter sessions, and is divided into thirteen See also:petty sessional divisions. The boroughs of Bucking-See also:ham and Wycombe have See also:separate commissions of the See also:peace. The administrative county contains 230 See also:civil parishes. Buckinghamshire is almost entirely within the See also:diocese of Oxford, and 215 ecclesiastical parishes are situated wholly or in part within it. There are three See also:parliamentary divisions, Northern or Buckingham, See also:Mid or Aylesbury, and Southern or Wycombe, each returning one member; and the county contains a small part of the parliamentary See also:borough of See also:Windsor (chiefly in Berk-See also:shire). The most notable institution within the county is Eton See also:College, the famous public school founded by See also:Henry VI. See also:History.—The district which was to become Buckinghamshire was reached by the West See also:Saxons in 571, as by a series of victories they pushed their way north along the Thames valley.

With the grouping of the settlements into kingdoms and the consolidation of See also:

Mercia under See also:Offa, Buckinghamshire was included in Mercia until, with the submission of that See also:kingdom to the Northmen, it became part of the Danelaw. In the loth century Buckinghamshire suffered frequently from the ravages of the Danes, and numerous barrows and earthworks See also:mark the scenes of struggles against the invaders., These See also:relics are especially abundant in the vale of Aylesbury, probably at this See also:time one of the richest and best protected of the Saxon settlements. The Chiltern district, on the other See also:hand, is said to have been an impassable forest infested by hordes of robbers and See also:wild beasts. In the reign of See also:Edward the See also:Confessor, Lcofstan, 12th See also:abbot of St Albans, cut down large tracts of See also:wood in this district and granted the See also:manor of Hamstead (Hefts) to a valiant See also:knight and two See also:fellow-soldiers on See also:condition that they should check the depredations of the robbers. The same See also:reason led at an See also:early See also:period to the See also:appointment of a steward of the Chiltern Hundreds, and this See also:office being continued See also:long after the See also:necessity for it had ceased to exist, gradually became the See also:sinecure it is to-day. The district was not finally disforested until the reign of See also:James I. At the time of the See also:Norman invasion Buckinghamshire was probably included in the earldom of Leofwine, son of See also:Godwin, and the support which it See also:lent him at the See also:battle of See also:Hastings was punished by sweeping confiscations after the See also:Conquest. The proximity of Buckinghamshire to London caused it to be involved in most of the great See also:national events of the ensuing centuries. During the See also:war between See also:King See also:John and his barons William Mauduit held Hanslape Castle against the king, until in 1216 it was captured and demolished by Falkes de See also:Breaute. The county was visited severely by the See also:Black See also:Death, and Winslow was one of many districts which were almost entirely depopulated. In the civil war Buckinghamshire was one of the first counties to join in an association for mutual See also:defence on the See also:side of the See also:parliament, which had important garrisons at Aylesbury, Brill and elsewhere. Newport Pagnell was for a short time garrisoned by the royalist troops, and in 1644 the king fixed his headquarters at Buckingham.

The shire of Buckingham originated with the See also:

division of Mercia in the reign of Edward the See also:Elder, and was probably formed by the See also:aggregation of pre-existing hundreds round the county town, a fact which explains the curious irregularities of the boundary line. The eighteen hundreds of the Domesday survey have now been reduced to eight, of which the three Chiltern hundreds, Desborough, Burnham and Stoke, are unaltered in extent as well as in name. The See also:remainder have been formed each by the See also:union of three of the ancient hundreds, and Aylesbury is still designated " the three hundreds of Aylesbury." All, except Newport and Buckingham, retain the names of Domesday hundreds, and the shire has altered little on its See also:outer lines since the survey. Until the time of See also:Queen See also:Elizabeth Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire had a common See also:sheriff. The shire court of the former county was held at Aylesbury. The ecclesiastical history of Buckinghamshire is not easy to trace, as there is no See also:local chronicler, but the earliest churches were probably subject to the West Saxon see of See also:Dorchester, and when after the Conquest the See also:bishop's See also:stool was transferred to See also:Lincoln no See also:change of See also:jurisdiction ensued. After the See also:dissolution of the monasteries it was proposed to form a new diocese to include Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, but the project was abandoned, and both remained in the Lincoln diocese until 1837, when the latter was transferred to Oxford. The See also:arch-deaconry was probably founded towards the See also:close of the 11th century by Bishop Remy, and the subdivision into rural deaneries followed shortly after. A See also:dean of Thornborough is mentioned in the 12th century, and in the See also:taxation of See also:Nicholas IV. eight deaneries are given, comprising 186 parishes. In 1855 the deaneries were reconstructed and made eighteen in number. On the redistribution of estates after the Conquest only two Englishmen continued to retain estates of any importance, and the chief landowners at this date were See also:Walter See also:Giffard, first earl of Buckingham, and See also:Odo, bishop of See also:Bayeux. Few of the great Buckinghamshire estates, however, remained with the same proprietors for any length of time.

Many became annexed by religious establishments, while others reverted to the See also:

crown and were disposed of by various grants. The See also:family of See also:Hampden alone claim to have held the See also:estate from which the name is derived in an unbroken line from Saxon times. Buckinghamshire has always ranked as an. agricultural rather than a manufacturing county, and has long been famed for its See also:corn and cattle. See also:Fuller mentions the vale of Aylesbury as producing the biggest bodied sheep in England, and " Buckingham-shire See also:bread and See also:beef " is an old See also:proverb. Lace-making, first introduced into this county by the See also:Fleming refugees from the See also:Alva persecution, became a very profitable industry. The monopolies of James I. considerably injured this trade, and in 1623 a See also:petition was addressed to the high sheriff of Buckingham-shire representing the See also:distress of the See also:people owing to the decay of See also:bone lace-making. Newport Pagnell and Olney were especially famous for their lace, and the See also:parish of Hanslape is said to have made an See also:annual profit of £S000 to £9000 from lace manufacture. The straw-See also:plait industry was introduced in the reign of George I., and formerly gave employment to a large number of the population. The county was first represented in parliament by two members in 1290. The See also:representation increased as the towns acquired representative rights, until in 1603 the county with its boroughs made a See also:total return of fourteen members. By the Reform See also:Act of 1832 this was reduced to eleven, and by the Redistribution of Seats Act of 1885 the boroughs were deprived of representation and the county returned three members for three divisions. Antiquities.—Buckinghamshire contains no ecclesiastical buildings of the first See also:rank.

Monastic remains are scanty, but two former abbeys may be noted. At Medmenham, on the Thames above Marlow, there are fragments, incorporated into a residence, of a Cistercian See also:

abbey founded in 1201; which became notorious in the See also:middle of the 18th century as the See also:meeting-See also:place of a convivial See also:club called the " See also:Franciscans " after its founder, See also:Sir See also:Francis Dashwood, afterwards See also:Lord le Despencer (1708-1781), and also known as the" See also:Hell-See also:Fire Club," of which John Wilkes, Bubb Dodington and other See also:political notorieties were members. The See also:motto of the club, See also:fay ce que voudras (do what you will), inscribed on a See also:doorway at the abbey, was borrowed from See also:Rabelais' description of the abbey of Thelema in Gargantua. The remains of the Augustinian Notley Abbey (1162), incorporated with a See also:farm-See also:house, deserve mention rather for their picturesque situation by the river Thame than for their architectural value. Turning to churches, there is workmanship considered to be of pre-Norman date in Wing See also:church, in the neighbourhood of Leighton Buzzard, including a polygonal See also:apse and See also:crypt. Stewkley church, in the same locality, shows the finest Norman See also:work in the county; the building is almost wholly of the later part of this period, and the ornamentation is very See also:rich. The Early See also:English work of Chetwode and Haddenham churches, both in the west of the county, is noteworthy; especially in the first, which, as it stands, is the eastern part of a priory church of See also:Augustinians (1244). See also:Good specimens of the Decorated See also:style are not wanting, though none is of See also:special See also:note; but the county contains three See also:fine examples of Perpendicular See also:architecture in Eton College See also:chapel and the churches of Maids Moreton to the north, and Hillesden to the south, of Buckingham. Ancient domestic architecture is chiefly confined to a few See also:country houses, of which Chequers Court, dating from the close of the 16th century, is of See also:interest not only from the architectural stand-point but from its beautiful situation high among the Chiltern Hills between Prince's Risborough and Wendover, and from a remarkable collection of relics of See also:Oliver See also:Cromwell, preserved here as a consequence of the See also:marriage, in 1664, of John See also:Russell, a See also:grandson of the See also:Protector, into the family to which the house then belonged. The manor-house of Hampden, among the hills east of Prince's Risborough, was for many generations the See also:abode of the family of that name, and is still in the See also:possession of descendants of John Hampden, who See also:fell at the battle of Chalgrove in 1643, and is buried in Hampden church. Fine county seats are numerous—there may be mentioned See also:Stowe (Buckingham), formerly the seat of the See also:dukes of Buckingham; Cliveden and Hedsor, two among the many beautifully situated mansions by the See also:bank of the Thames; and Claydon House in the west of the county. Among the Chiltern Hills, also, there are several splendid domains.

Associations with eminent men have given a high fame to several towns or villages of Buckinghamshire. Such are the connexion of Beaconsfield with See also:

Edmund See also:Waller and Edmund See also:Burke, that of Hughenden near Wycombe with See also:Benjamin Disraeli, Lord Beaconsfield, whose See also:father's residence was at Bradenham; of Olney and Stoke Pogis with the poets See also:Cowper and See also:Gray respectively. At Chalfont St See also:Giles a cottage still stands in which See also:Milton completed See also:Paradise Lost and began Paradise Regained. In earlier See also:life he had lived and worked at See also:Horton, near the Thames below Windsor.

End of Article: BUCKINGHAMSHIRE (abbreviated Bucks)

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