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WESTMORLAND

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Originally appearing in Volume V28, Page 555 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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WESTMORLAND , a See also:

north-western See also:county of See also:England, bounded N.W. by See also:Cumberland, N.E. for a See also:short distance by See also:Durham, E. by See also:Yorkshire, S. and S.W. by See also:Lancashire. Itreaches the See also:sea in the See also:Kent See also:estuary in See also:Morecambe See also:Bay. The See also:area is 786.2 sq. m. Physically the county may be roughly divided into four areas. (1) The See also:great upland See also:tract in the north-eastern See also:part, bordering on the western margin of Yorkshire and part of Durham, consists mainly of a See also:wild moorland area, rising to elevations of 2780 ft. in Milburn See also:Forest, 2403 in Dufton See also:Fell, 2446 in See also:Hilton Fell, 2024 in Bastifell, 2328 in High Seat, 2323 in Wild See also:Boar Fell and 2235 in Swarth Fell. (2) The second area comprises about a third of the See also:Lake See also:District (q.v.), westward from Shap Fells. This area includes High See also:Street (2663 ft.), Helvellyn (3118) and See also:Fairfield (2863), Langdale Pikes (2401) and on the boundary See also:Bow Fell (2960), Crinkle Crags (2816) and See also:Pike o' Blisco (2304). It must also be taken to See also:cover the elevated area on the Yorkshire border which includes the Ravenstonedale and Langdale Fells to the N. and the See also:Middleton and See also:Barbon Fells to the S., of an intrusive See also:angle of Yorkshire. This area, however, which reaches in some points over 2200 ft. of See also:altitude, is marked off from the Lake District mountains by the Lune valley. All but the See also:lower parts of the valleys within these two areas See also:lie at or above r000 ft. above See also:Ordnance datum; and more than See also:half the See also:remainder lies between that See also:elevation .and 1750 ft., the See also:main See also:mass of high See also:land lying in the area first mentioned. (3) The third area includes the comparatively See also:low See also:country between the See also:northern slopes of that just described and the edge of the uplands to the north-See also:east thereof. This covers the Vale of See also:Eden.

About three-fifths of this area lies between the 500 See also:

mid the loon ft. See also:contour. (4) The See also:Kendal area consists mainly of undulating lowlands, varied by hills ranging in only a few cases up to l000 ft. More than half this area lies below the 500 ft. contour. Westmorland may thus be said to be divided in the See also:middle by uplands ranging in a See also:general See also:south-easterly direction, and to be bordered all along its eastern See also:side by the elevated moorlands of the Pennine See also:chain. The See also:principal See also:rivers are—in the northern area the higher part of the See also:Tees, the Eden with its main tributaries, the Lowther and the Eamont, and in the See also:southern area the Lune and the Kent, with their numerous tributary becks and gills. The lakes include See also:Windermere, part of Ullswater, See also:Grasmere, See also:Hawes See also:Water and numerous smaller lakes and tarns, which are chiefly confined to the north-western parts of the county. Amongst the other See also:physical features of more or less See also:interest are numerous crags and scars, chiefly in the neighbourhood of the lakes; others are Mallerstang Edge, Helbeck, above See also:Brough; Haikable or High See also:Cup Gill, near See also:Appleby; See also:Orton Scars; and the See also:limestone crags See also:west of See also:Kirkby See also:Lonsdale. Among the waterfalls are Caldron Snout, on the northern confines of the county, flowing over the Whin See also:Sill, and Stock Gill Force, Rydal Falls, Skelwith Force, and See also:Dungeon Gill Force, all situated amongst the volcanic rocks in the west. See also:Hell Gill, near the See also:head of the Eden, and Stenkrith, near Kirkby See also:Stephen, are conspicuous examples of natural See also:arches eroded by the streams flowing through them. See also:Geology.—The diversity of scenery and physical features in this county are directly traceable to the See also:influence of See also:geological structure. In the mountainous north-western portion, which includes the heights of Helvellyn, Langdale Pikes, and Bow Fell, and the lakes Ullswater, Hawes Water, Grasmere and Elterwater, we find the great mass of igneous rocks known as the Borrowdale volcanic See also:series—andesites, basalts and tuffs—of Ordovician See also:age. On the northern and north-western sides these volcanic rocks pass into the neighbouring county of Cumberland; their southern boundary runs north-easterly from the upper end of Windermere by Kentmere and past the granitic mass of Shap Fell; thence the boundary turns north-westward through Rasgill to the east end of Ullswater.

Narrow strips of Ordovician Skiddaw See also:

slate occur on the south See also:banks of Ullswater and fringe the Borrowdale rocks for some distance east of Windermere. A large area of See also:Silurian rocks occupies most of the south-western part of the county from Windermere to near Ravenstonedale and southward to See also:Sedbergh, Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale. The Ordovician and Silurian rocks are bordered on the east and south by Carboniferous limestone from the See also:river Eamont southward through See also:Clifton, Shap, See also:Crosby See also:Garrett and Ravenstonedale; and again south of Kendal, down the Kent valley and eastward to Kirkby Lonsdale. Outlying patches of limestone See also:rest on the Silurian at Grayrigg, Mealbank and elsewhere. The Carboniferous See also:lime-See also:stone is found again on the east side of the Eden valley in Milburn Forest, Dufton Fell, Stainmore and Winster Fell. Here and there in the south-east corner Millstone Grit and Shales cap the limestone and some little distance east of Brough under Stainmore a small patch of See also:Coal See also:Measures remains. At the See also:base of the Carboniferous rocks in this county is a red conglomeratic See also:deposit, the lower part of which may be regarded as of Old Red See also:Sandstone age; it may be traced from Ullswater through Butterwick, Rasgill and Tebay, and it appears again at Sedbergh, See also:Barton and around Kendal. In the limestones on the east side of the Eden the Great Whin Sill, a See also:diabase See also:dike, may be followed for a considerable distance. In the Eden valley two sets of red sandstones occur, that on the western side is of See also:Permian age and includes the See also:conglomerate beds known as brockram." The Permian extends as a See also:belt from 4 to 2 M. wide between See also:Penrith, Appleby and Kirkby Stephen. The sandstone on the eastern side of the valley is of See also:Bunter age. The eastern side of the valley is strongly faulted so that small patches of Ordovician and Silurian rocks appear all along the margin of the Carboniferous limestone. Evidences of glaciation are abundant in the See also:form of morainic accumulations and transported or striated blocks.

See also:

Climate and See also:Agriculture.—The rainfall is very heavy, especially in the western part (see LAKE DISTRICT), whence it diminishes eastward. Thus at Kendal, on the eastern flank of the Lake District, the mean See also:annual rainfall is still as high as 48.71 in., whereas at Appleby in the Eden valley it is only 32.45 in. The greater part of the county may, however, be considered to lie within an area having 40 to 6o in. mean annual fall. The See also:average temperature in See also:January at Appleby is 35.8° F., but at Windermere it is 37.4°. The summer temperature is mild; thus at the same two points 58.4° and 58.7° are recorded. The principal characteristic of the climate is the preponderance of See also:cloud, wet and See also:cold days, especially in the See also:spring and autumn,—combining to retard the growth of vegetation. The See also:late stay of cold winds in the spring has much to do with the same, especially in the lowlands extending along the See also:foot of the See also:Cross Fell escarpment from Brough north-westwards. The helm-See also:wind (q.v.) is characteristic of this district. Scarcely one-half of the See also:total area of the county is under cultivation, and of this acreage about five-sixths is in permanent pasture, both See also:cattle and See also:sheep being largely kept. Large portions of the valleys are well wooded. Nearly the whole of the acreage under See also:corn crops is occupied by oats; a little See also:barley is grown, but the See also:wheat See also:crop is insignificant. About three-fourths of the acreage under See also:green crops is occupied by turnips.

The meadow-land yields excellent grass. Grass of inferior value characterizes the pasture-lauds; while on the fell (or unenclosed) land, except in limestone areas, the herbage consists chiefly of the coarser kinds of grass, bents and heather. These, however, furnish nourishment for the hardier breeds of sheep, which are pastured there in large See also:

numbers. It is from the See also:sale of these, of their stock cattle, horses and pigs, and of their See also:dairy produce that the See also:staple of the farmers' income is derived. A large part of Westmorland was formerly in the hands of "statesmen" (see CUMBERLAND) whose holdings were usually of small extent, but were sufficient, with careful management, for the respectable See also:maintenance of themselves and their families. The proportion of landowners of this class has greatly decreased. Manufactures.—The manufacturing See also:industries, owing to the See also:absence of any large supplies of native See also:fuel, are not numerous. The principal is woollen manufacture in one form or another, and this is chiefly confined to the low country in and near Kendal. Bobbin-making, the manufacture of See also:explosives, fulling, See also:snuff-grinding and several small industries are carried on, and use the water-See also:power available at so many points. See also:Paper-making is also carried on. The quarries occupy a considerable number of hands at various points, as in the See also:case of the green slate quarries which are detrimental to the scenery in the lower part of Langdale. Communications.—The main See also:line of the See also:London and North-Western railway from the south serves Oxenholme (See also:branch to Kendal and Windermere), Low Gill (branch to ln_gleton in See also:York-See also:shire), and Tebay, leaving the county after surmounting the heavy gradient at Shap.

The Midland main line, with a parallel course, serves Appleby. A branch of the North Eastern See also:

system from See also:Darlington serves Kirkby Stephen and Tebay, and another branch connects Kirkby Stephen with Appleby and Penrith. See also:Population and See also:Administration.—The area of the See also:ancient county is 503,160 acres; with a population in 1891 of 66,098 and in 190I of 64,303. The natives are prevalently tall, wiry, See also:long-armed, big-handed, dark-See also:grey-eyed and fresh-coloured. In disposition they are cautious, reserved and unemotional and thrifty beyond measure. • The general See also:character of the dialects of Westmorland is that of a basis of Anglian speech, influenced to a_ certain extent by the speech current amongst the non-Anglian peoples of See also:Strathclyde. This is overlaid to a much greater though variable extent by the more decidedly Scandinavian forms of speech introduced at various periods between the loth and the 12th centuries. Three well-marked dialects can be made out. The area of the administrative county is 505,330 acres. The county contains four wards (corresponding to hundreds). The municipal boroughs are Appleby, the county See also:town (pop.1764) and Kendal (14,183). The See also:urban districts are See also:Ambleside (2536), Bowness and Windermere (5061), Grasmere (781).

Kirkby Lonsdale (1638) and Shap (1226). The county is in the northern See also:

circuit, and assizes are held at Appleby. It has one See also:court of See also:quarter sessions, and is divided into five See also:petty sessional divisions. The See also:borough of Kendal has a See also:separate See also:commission of the See also:peace. There are 115 See also:civil parishes. Westmorland is in the See also:diocese of See also:Carlisle, and contains 86 ecclesiastical parishes or districts, wholly or in part. There are two See also:parliamentary divisions, Northern or Appleby and Southern or Kendal, each returning one member. See also:History.—The earliest See also:English settlements in the district which is now Westmorland were effected by the Anglian tribes who entered Yorkshire by the See also:Humber in the 6th See also:century and laid the See also:foundations of the See also:kingdom of See also:Deira, which included within its See also:bounds that portion of Westmorland afterwards known as the See also:barony of Kendal. The northern district, corresponding to the later barony of Appleby, meanwhile remained unconquered, and it was not until the See also:close of the 7th century that See also:Ecgfrith drove out the native Britons and established the Northumbrian supremacy over the whole district. With the Danish invasions of the 9th century the Kendal district was included in the Danelaw, while the barony of Appleby formed a portion of the land of Carlisle. The first mention of Westmorland in the Saxon See also:Chronicle occurs under 966, when it was harried by Thored son of Gunnar, the See also:term here applying only to the barony of Appleby, which at this See also:period was being extensively colonized by See also:Norwegian settlers, traces of whose occupation are especially noticeable in the See also:place-names of the Lake District. The Domesday Survey describes only the barony of Kendal which appears as part of Amounderness in Yorkshire.

Before the See also:

Conquest it had formed part of the earldom of See also:Tostig of See also:Northumbria, and had been bestowed by See also:William I. on See also:Roger of See also:Poitou, but, owing to the See also:forfeiture of his estates by the latter, at the See also:time of the survey it was in the hands of the See also:crown. The See also:annexation of the northern portion of Westmorland to the crown of England was accomplished by William See also:Rufus, who in 1092 drove out Dolfin from the land of Carlisle, and fortified Brough-under-Stainmore, See also:Brougham, Appleby and Pendragon. In the reign of See also:Henry I. the barony of Appleby was included in the See also:grant to Ranulph Meschin of the earldom of Carlisle, but on the See also:accession of Ranulph to the earldom of See also:Chester in 1120 it was surrendered to the crown, and its inclusion in the See also:pipe See also:roll of 1131 shows that Westmorland was now definitely established on the administrative basis of an English county. The barony of Kendal was held in the 12th century by the Mowbrays, and from them passed to the See also:family of See also:Lancaster, who held it as of the See also:honour of Westmorland. In the 13th century it was separated into two moieties; the See also:Lindsay moiety which passed from the Lindsays to the Copelands and Coucys and in the reign of Henry VI. to the Beauforts and Richmonds, whence was derived its later name of See also:Richmond See also:Fee; the Brus moiety, which became subdivided into the See also:Marquis Fee held by the See also:Parr family, ancestors of Katherine Parr, and the Lumley Fee which passed from the Thwengs to the Lumleys and Hothams. The barony of Appleby, with the hereditary shrievalty, was bestowed by See also:King See also:John on the family of Veteripont, from whom it passed by See also:female descent to the Cliffords in the 13th century, and in the 16th century to the Tuftons, afterwards earls of See also:Thanet, who retained the dignity until their descendant, Mr See also:Barham of Trecwn, yielded his rights to the crown. The See also:division of Westmorland into wards originated with the system of See also:defence against the inroads of the Scots, each barony being divided into two wards, and each See also:ward placed under a high See also:constable, who presided over the wards to be maintained at certain fords and other appointed places. The barony of Kendal was divided into Kendal and Lonsdale wards, and the barony of Appleby, called the Bottom, into east and west wards, there being anciently a middle ward between these last two. The shire court and assizes for the county were held at Appleby. The barony of Appleby was included in the diocese of York from the 7th century, and in 1291 formed the deaneries of Lonsdale and Kendal within the archdeaconry of Richmond. The barony of Appleby, which had been bestowed by Henry I. in the see of Carlisle, formed in 1291 the deanery of Westmorland within the archdeaconry and diocese of Carlisle. The barony of Kendal was placed by Henry VIII. in his new diocese of Chester, of which it remained a part until in 1856 it was constituted the archdeaconry of Westmorland within the diocese of Carlisle.

In 1859 the Westmorland portion of the archdeaconry of Carlisle was subdivided into the deaneries of Appleby, Kirkby Stephen and Lowther; and the additional deanery of Ambleside was formed within the archdeaconry of Westmorland. The only religious See also:

foundation of any importance in Westmorland was the Premonstratensian See also:house at Shap founded by See also:Thomas, son of See also:Gospatric, in the 12th century. The See also:early See also:political history of Westmorland after the Conquest is a See also:record of continuous inroads and devastations from the Scots. In the Scottish invasion of the northern counties which followed the See also:battle of See also:Bannockburn Brough and Appleby were burnt, and the county was twice harried by See also:Robert See also:Bruce in the ensuing years. In 1385 a battle was fought at Hoff near Appleby against the Scots under See also:Earl See also:Douglas, and in 1388, after See also:Otter-See also:burn, the Scots sacked Appleby with such effect that nine-tenths of it See also:lay in ruins and was never rebuilt. In the See also:Wars of the See also:Roses, Westmorland, under the See also:Clifford influence, inclined to favour the Lancastrian cause, but was not actively concerned in the struggle. In the Civil See also:War of the 17th century the See also:chief families of the county were royalist, and in 1641 See also:Anne, countess of See also:Pembroke, hereditary high See also:sheriff of the county, garrisoned Appleby See also:Castle for the king, placing it in See also:charge of See also:Sir See also:Philip See also:Musgrave, the See also:colonel of the See also:train-bands of Westmorland and Cumberland. In 1642 a memorial was presented to See also:Charles signed by nearly 5000 of the inhabitants of Westmorland and Cumberland protesting their See also:loyalty and readiness to See also:sacrifice their lives and fortunes in his service. Appleby Castle surrendered in 1648, but the strength of the royalist feeling was shown in the joy which greeted the See also:news of the Restoration, the See also:mayor of Appleby publicly destroying the See also:charter which the town had received from See also:Cromwell. The Jacobite rising of 1745 found many adherents in Westmorland, and a skirmish took place on Clifton See also:Moor between the forces of See also:Lord See also:George See also:Murray and the See also:duke of Cumberland. The economic development of Westmorland, both on See also:account of natural disadvantages and of the ravages of border strife, has been slow and unimportant; the rugged and barren nature of the ground being unfavourable to agricultural prosperity, while the lack of fuel hindered the growth of manufactures. Sheep-farming was carried on in the moorland districts, however, and the Premonstratensian house at Shap supplied See also:wool to the Florentine and Flemish markets in the 13th and 14th centuries.

The clothing See also:

industry, which spread from Kendal to the surrounding districts, is said to have been introduced by one John See also:Kempe of See also:Flanders, who settled there in the reign of See also:Edward III., and a See also:statute of 1463 alludes to cloths of a distinct make being manufactured at Kendal. In 1589 the county suffered severely from the ravages of the See also:plague, 2500 deaths being recorded in the deanery of Kendal alone. See also:Speed, See also:writing in the 17th century, says of Westmorland that " it is not commended either for plenty of corn or cattle, being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one, nor pasturage to See also:lead up the other; the principal profit that the See also:people of this See also:province raise unto themselves is by clothing." The See also:comb manufacture was established at Kendal in 1700, and about the same time the development of the See also:boot and See also:shoe See also:trade to some extent supplemented the loss consequent on the decline of the clothing industry. There were two paper-See also:mills at Milnthorpe in 1777, one of which existed eighty years before. Westmorland returned two knights for the county to the See also:parliament of 1290, and in 1295 two burgesses for the borough of Appleby. Under the Reform See also:Act of 1832 Appleby was disfranchised and Kendal returned one member. Antiquities.—Notable ecclesiastical buildings are almost entirely wanting in Westmorland, though mention may bemade of the ruins of Shap See also:Abbey, which lies near the small See also:market town of that name in the See also:bleak upper valley of the Lowther. The Perpendicular western See also:tower and other fragments remain. Late See also:Norman See also:work is preserved in some of the churches, as at Kirkby Lonsdale, and in a few castles. Among the castles, those at Appleby, Brough, Brougham and Kendal are notable, but examples are numerous. Among old houses, Levens See also:Hall See also:dates from the 16th century, and Sizergh Hall embodies part of an ancient castle; both are in the Kendal district. The formal gardens at Levens Hall are remarkable.

Lowther Castle, near Penrith, the seat of the earl of Lonsdale, is a See also:

fine See also:modern See also:mansion, in a See also:Gothic See also:style more satisfactory in broad effect than in detail. See See also:Joseph See also:Nicholson and See also:Richard Burn, The History and Antiquities of the Counties of Westmorland and Cumberland (2 vols., London, 1777); William Whellan, The History and See also:Topography of the Counties of Cumberland and Westmorland (See also:Pontefract, 1860); Transactions of the Cumberland and Westmorland Antiquarian and Archaeological Society (Kendal, 187o, &c.) ; R. S. See also:Ferguson, History of Westmorland (Popular County Histories, 1894) ; Sir D. See also:Fleming, Description of Westmorland (1671); T. See also:Gibson, Legends and Notes on Places of North Westmorland (London, 1887) ; M. W. See also:Taylor, Manorial Halls of Westmorland (Kendal, 1892) ; T. See also:Ellwood, Landnama See also:Book of See also:Iceland as it illustrates the See also:Dialect and Antiquities of Westmorland (Kendal, 1894) ; See also:Victoria County History, Westmorland.

End of Article: WESTMORLAND

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