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See also:EMBROIDERY (M.E. embrouderie, from O. Fr. embroder, Mod. Fr. broder) , the ornamentation of textile fabrics and other materials with See also:needlework. The beginnings of the See also:art of embroidery probably date back to a very See also:primitive See also:stage in the See also:history of all peoples, since See also:plain stitching must have been one of the earliest attainments of mankind, and from that it is but a See also:short step to decorative needlework of some See also:kind. The See also:discovery of needles among the See also:relics of Swiss See also:lake-dwellings shows that their primitive inhabitants were at least acquainted with the art of stitching. In concerning ourselves solely with those periods of which examples survive, we must pass over a wide See also:gap and begin with the anciently-civilized See also:land of See also:Egypt. The sandy See also:soil and dry See also:climate of that See also:country have led to the preservation of See also:woven stuffs and embroideries of unique historic See also:interest. The See also:principal, and by far the earliest, known pieces which have a bearing on the See also:present subject, found in 1903 in the See also:tomb of Tethmosis (Thoutm6sis, or Thothmes) IV. at See also:Thebes, are now in the See also:Cairo Museum. There are three fragments, entirely of See also:linen, in- wrought with patterns in See also:blue, red, See also:green and See also:black (fig. I). A kind of See also:tapestry method is used, the patterns being wrought upon the warp threads of the ground, instead of upon the finished See also:web or woven material. Such a See also:process, generally supplemented, as in this See also:case, by a few stitches of See also:fine needlework, was still in See also:common use at a far later See also:time. The largest of the three fragments at Cairo bears, in addition to rows of See also:lotus See also:flowers and See also:papyrus inflorescences, a See also:cartouche containing the name of Amenophis (Amenhotep) II. (c. 15th See also:century B.C.); another is inwrought with the name of Tethmosis III. (c. 16th century B.C.).1 No other embroidered stuffs which can be assigned to so See also:early a date have hitherto come to See also:light in the See also:Nile valley (nor indeed elsewhere), and the student who wishes to gain a See also:fuller knowledge of the textile patterns of the See also:ancient Egyptians must be referred to the See also:wall-paintings and sculptured reliefs which have been preserved in considerable See also:numbers. From the ancient civilizations of See also:Babylon and See also:Assyria no fragments of embroidery, nor even of woven stuffs, have come down to us. The fine See also:series of wall-reliefs from See also:Nineveh in the See also:British Museum give some See also:idea of the geometrical and floral patterns and diapers which adorned the See also:robes of the ancient Assyrians. The discovery of the ruins of the See also:palace of See also:Darius I. (521–485 B.C.) at See also:Susa in 1885 has thrown some light upon the textile art of the ancient Persians. They evidently owed much to the nations whom they had supplanted. The famous See also:relief from this palace (now in the Louvre) represents a procession of archers, wearing See also:long robes covered with small See also:diaper patterns, perhaps of embroidery. The exact significance of the words used in the See also:book of See also:Exodus in describing the robes of See also:Aaron (ch. See also:xxviii.) and the hangings and ornaments of the See also:Tabernacle (ch. See also:xxvi.) cannot be deter-See also:mined, and the " broidered See also:work " of the prophecy of See also:Ezekiel (ch. See also:xxvii.) at a later time is also of uncertain meaning. It seems likely that much of this ancient work was of the tapestry class, such as we have found in the early fragments from Thebes. The methods of the ancient See also:Greek embroiderer, or "variegator " ('IrouuXrits) to whom woven garments were submitted 1 See H. See also:Carter and P. E. See also:Newberry, See also:Cat. gen. See also:des See also:ant. egypt. du musee du Caire (1904), pl. i. and xxviii. A remarkable piece of See also:Egyptian needlework, the funeral See also:tent of See also:Queen Isi em Kheb (XXIst See also:Dynasty), was discovered at See also:Deir el Bahri some years ago. It is described as a See also:mosaic of leatherwork—pieces of gazelle hide of several See also:colours, stitched together (see See also:Villiers See also:Stuart, The Funeral Tent of an Egyptian Queen, 1882). for enrichment, can only be conjectured. The peplos or woven See also:cloth made every fifth See also:year to See also:cover or shade the statue of See also:Athena in the See also:Parthenon at See also:Athens, and carried at the Panathenaic festival,' was ornamented with the battles of the gods and giants. The See also:late Dr J. H. See also:Middleton thought that very possibly most of the elaborate work upon these peploi was done by the See also:needle. That true embroidery, in the See also:modern sense—the decoration by means of the needle of a finished woven material—was practised among the ancient Greeks, has been demonstrated by the finding of some textile fragments in See also:graves in the See also:Crimea; these are now in the Hermitage at St See also:Petersburg. One of them, of See also:purple woollen material, from a tomb assigned to the 4th century B.C., is embroidered in wools of different colours with a See also:man on horseback, See also:honeysuckle See also:ornament and tendrils. Another woollen piece, attributed to the following century, has a See also:stem and arrow-See also:head leaves worked in See also:gold See also:thread'
In turning to ancient See also:Rome, it is well first briefly to See also:notice See also:Pliny's See also:account of the See also:craft (Nat. Hist. viii.), as recording the views current in Rome at his time (1st century A.D.). After See also:relating that See also:Homer mentions embroidered garments (pictas vestes), he states that the Phrygians first used the needle for embroidered robes, which were thence called Phrygionian (Phrygioniae), and that Attalic garments were named from Attalus II., See also: Towards the end of this See also:period a greater choice of colours is seen, and Christian symbols appear. At this time examples worked entirely upon the finished web are found (fig. 2). The transition is easy from such work to the veritable " needle-paintings," representing scenes from the gospels, produced in Egypt shortly after (fig. 3). Such embroideries are evidently akin to those mentioned by See also:Bishop Asterius (330-410), who describes the garments worn by effeminate Christians as painted like the walls of their houses.' From the time of Justinian (527–565) onwards for some centuries, the art of See also:Europe, embroidery with the See also:rest, was dominated by that of the See also:Byzantine See also:empire. To trace the progress of the highly conventionalized Byzantine See also:style, becoming more rigid and stereotyped as time passes, belongs to the See also:general hi See also:Cory of art, and such a task cannot be attempted here. P€rhaps the most remarkable example of all which have survived ' The procession at this festival is represented upon the See also:frieze of the Parthenon. z See Compte rendu de la See also:Comm. See also:Imp. See also:Arch., 1878–1879 (St Petersburg), pl. iii. and v. $ For an account of the conditions under which Greek and Roman embroiderers worked, see Alan S. See also:Cole, " Some Aspects of Ancient and Modern Embroidery," See also:Journal of the Society of Arts, vol. 'iii.,
1905, PP. 958, 959.
'Chiefly tunics with See also:vertical bands (clavi) and medallions (orbi-
culae), and an ample See also:outer robe or cloak.
The See also:Adoration of the Magi is represented upon the See also:lower border of the long robe worn by the empress See also:Theodora (wife of Justinian) in the mosaic in the See also: Coptic work of the 6th or 7th century A.D. See also:Constantinople in the year 1204, although the style lingered, and lingers still, in certain localities, notably at See also:Mount See also:Athos. See also:Palermo in See also:Sicily succeeded See also:Byzantium as the capital of the 6 Writers have assigned different See also:dates to this vestment: See also:Lady See also:Alford, Needlework as Art (earlier than the 13th century) ; F. Bock, See also:Die Kleinodien (12th century); S. Boisser6e, Uber die Kaiser-Dalmatica in der St Peterskirche zu Rom (12th or first See also:half of 13th century) ; A. S. Cole, Cantor Lectures at Society of Arts, 19os (possibly of 9th century) ; See also:Lord See also:Lindsay, Christian Art (12th or early 13th century); A. Venturi, Storia dell' arte (loth or 11th century); T. Braun, Liturg. Gewandung, p. 305 and See also:note (late 14th or early 15th century). arts in Europe, although its ascendancy was of brief duration. Under the See also:Norman See also:kings of Sicily the style was strongly See also:oriental, consequent upon the earlier occupation of the See also:island by the See also:Saracens, and upon the employment of Saracenic craftsmen by the See also:Normans. The magnificent red silk See also:mantle at See also:Vienna, embroidered in gold thread with a date-See also:palm and two lions springing upon camels, and enriched with pearls and See also:enamel plaques, bears See also:round the edge an Arabic inscription, recording that it was made in the royal factory of the capital of Sicily (Palermo) in the year 528 (=A.D. 1134). At that time See also:Roger, the first Norman king, was on the See also:throne. Another of the imperial See also:coronation-robes—a linen See also:alb with gold embroidery—is also at Vienna .l An inscription in Latin and Arabic states that it was made in the year 1181, under the reign of See also: See also:Gilds of embroiderers existed far back in medieval times. In See also:England the craft has been a favourite employment for many centuries, and persons of all ranks have occupied their spare See also:hours at needlework. Some embroidered fragments, found in 1826–1827 in the tomb of St See also:Cuthbert at See also:Durham, and now kept in the See also:cathedral library, were worked, chiefly in gold thread, by See also:order of iElffla;da, queen of See also:Edward the See also:Elder, for Fridestan, bishop of See also:Winchester, early in the loth century. ' Both are illustrated in F. Bock, Die Kleinodien. In the later See also:part of the following century the " See also:Bayeux tapestry " was produced—a work of unique importance (See also:Plate I. fig. 7). It is a See also:band of linen, more than 230 ft. long, embroidered in coloured wools with the See also:story of the Norman See also:conquest of England. (See BAYEUX TAPESTRY.) Some fragments of metallic embroidery on silk, of the 12th and 13th centuries, may be seen in the library of See also:Worcester cathedral. They were removed from the coffins of two bishops, William de See also:Blois (1218–1236) and See also:Walter de Cantelupe (1236-1266). A fragment of gold embroidery from the tomb of the latter bishop is preserved in the See also:Victoria and See also:Albert Museum at See also:South See also:Kensington, and others are in the British Museum. In the 13th century See also:English embroidery was famous throughout western Europe, and many embroidered objects are described in inventories of that time as being de opere anglicano. During that century, and the early part of the next, English work was at its best. The most famous example is the " Syon See also:cope " at South Kensington, belonging to the latter half of the 13th century (see COPE, Plate I. fig. 2). It represents the coronation of the Virgin, the Crucifixion, the See also:archangel See also:Michael transfixing the See also:dragon, the See also:death and See also:burial of the Virgin, our Lord See also:meeting See also:Mary Magdalene in the See also:garden, the Apostles and the hierarchies of angels. The broad See also:orphrey is embroidered with a series of heraldic See also:shields (Plate II. fig. 9). Other embroideries of the period are at See also:Steeple See also:Aston, See also:Chesterfield (See also:Col. See also: Many examples, especially of the latter reign, worked with very effective and beautiful floral patterns, have come down to these times. A kind of embroidery known as " black work," done in black silk on linen, was popular during the same reign. A See also:tunic embroidered for Queen Elizabeth, with devices copied from contemporary woodcuts, is an excellent example of this work. It now belongs to the See also:Viscount See also:Falkland. Another class of work, popular at the same time, was closely worked in wools and silks on open-mesh material like See also:canvas, which was entirely covered by the embroidery. Figures in See also:rich See also:costume were often introduced (Plate I. fig. 6). This method was much practised in See also:France, and the term applied to it in that country, " au See also:petit point," has become generally used. Through-out the 17th and 18th centuries embroidery in England, though sometimes lacking in See also:good See also:taste, maintained generally a high See also:standard, and that done to-See also:day, based on the study of old examples, need not fear comparison with any modern work. During these three centuries bold floral patterns for hangings, curtains and coverlets have been usual (Plate III. fig. 13), but smaller See also:works, such as samplers, covers of work-boxes, and pictorial and landscape subjects (fig. 5), have been produced in large numbers. In the 18th century gentlemen's coats and waistcoats and ladies' dresses were extensively embroidered.
In France, embroidery, like all the arts practised by that nation, has been characterized by much See also:grace and beauty, and many good specimens belonging to different periods are known. The vestments associated with the name of St See also: Under the See also:rule of the See also:dukes of See also:Burgundy in the 15th century art in the See also:southern provinces of the See also:Netherlands prospered Fxe. 5.-See also:Oval picture in silk embroidery: Fame scattering Flowers over See also:Shakespeare's Tomb. English work of the 18th century. greatly, and able artists were found to meet the wishes of those munificent rulers. The See also:local See also:schools of painting, which flourished under their patronage, appear to have very considerably influenced the embroiderers' art. See also:Great care and pains were given to reproduce as accurately as possible the painted See also:cartoon or picture which served as the See also:model. The heads are individualized, and the folds of the draperies are laboriously worked out in detail. The See also:masonry of buildings, the veinings of See also:marble, and the architectural enrichments are often represented with careful fidelity, and landscape backgrounds are shdwn in every detail. As in the case of the tapestries of the Netherlands—the finest which the world has seen—there can be no doubt that patrons of art and donors, when requiring embroideries to be made, secured the services of eminent painters for the designs. There are many examples of such careful work. A set of vestments known as the ornement de la Toison d'Or, now in the See also:Hof-museum at Vienna, is embroidered in the most See also:minute manner with sacred subjects and figures of See also:saints and angels. The stiff disposal of many of these figures, within flattened hexagons arranged in zones, is not pleasing, but the needlework is most remarkable for skill and carefulness. They are of 15th-century work. A cope belonging to the second half of that century was given to
the cathedral of Tournay by See also:Guillaume Fillatre, See also: Embroideries were among the articles produced in the East under Dutch influence for exportation to Holland. Much embroidery for ecclesiastical purposes has been executed in See also:Belgium of late years. It follows medieval See also:models, but is lacking in the qualities which make those of so much importance in the history of the art. There is perhaps little worthy of See also:special notice in See also:Italy before the beginning of the 14th century, but the embroideries produced at that time show great skill and are very beautiful. The names of two Florentine embroiderers of the 14th century-both men—have come down to us, inscribed upon their handiwork. A fine frontal for an altar, very delicately worked in gold and silver and silks of many colours, is preserved in the archaeological museum at See also:Florence. The subject in the middle is the coronation of the Virgin; on either See also:side is an See also:arcade with figures of apostles and saints. The embroiderer's name is worked under the central subject: Jacobus Cambi de Floretia me fecit MCCCXXXVIII. The other example is in the See also:basilica at See also:Manresa in Spain. It also is an altar-frontal, worked in silk and gold upon an, embroidered gold ground. There is a large central panel representing the Crucifixion, with nine scenes from the Gospel on each side. The embroidered inscription is as follows: Geri Lapi rachamatore me fecit in Florentia. It is of 14th-century work. An embroidered orphrey in the Victoria and Albert Museum belongs to the early part of the same century. It represents the Annunciation, the coronation of the Virgin and figures of apostles and saints beneath arches. In the spandrels are the orders of angels with their names in See also:Italian. In the best period of Italian art successful painters did not disdain to design for embroidery. See also:Francesco Squarcione (1394-1474), the founder of the Paduan school of painting, and See also:master of See also:Mantegna, is called in a document of the year 1423 a tailor and embroiderer (sartor et recamator). It is recorded that See also:Antonio del See also:Pollaiuolo painted cartoons which were carried out in embroidery,' and Pierino del Vaga, according to See also:Vasari, did likewise. In the 16th and 17th centuries large numbers of towels and linen covers were embroidered in red, green or See also: The later embroidery of Sicily follows that of the mainland. A remarkable coverlet, quilted and padded with wool so as to throw the design into relief, is shown to be of Sicilian origin by the inscriptions which it bears Some embroideries from vestments, designed by Pollaiuolo, are still preserved in the Museo dell' See also:Opera del Duomo, Florence. (Plate VI. fig. 18). It represents scenes from the story of See also:Tristan, agreeing in the See also:main part with the novella entitled " La Tavola Rotonda o 1'istoria di Tristano." The See also:quilt dates from the end of the 14th century. Many pattern-books for embroidery and See also:lace were published in Italy in the 16th and 17th centuries.' In the greater part of the See also:Spanish See also:peninsula art was for many centuries dominated by the See also:Arabs, who overran the country in the 8th century, and were not finally subdued until the end of the 15th. Hispano-Moorish embroideries of the medieval period usually have interlacing patterns combined with Arabic inscriptions. In the 15th and 16th centuries Italian influence becomes evident. Later the effects of the Spanish conquests in See also:Asia are seen. Eastern influence is, however, stronger in the case of the Portuguese, who seized See also:Goa, on the See also:west See also:coast of the See also:Indian peninsula, early in the 16th century, and during the whole of that century held the See also:monopoly of the eastern See also:trade. Many large embroideries were produced in the Indies, showing eastern floral patterns mingled with representations of Europeans, See also:ships and coats of arms. Embroideries done in See also:Portugal in the 16th and 17th centuries strongly reflect the influence of oriental patterns. See also:German embroidery of the 12th and 13th centuries adheres closely to the traditions of Byzantine art. A peculiarity of much medieval German work is a tendency to treat the draperies of the figures as See also:flat surfaces to be covered with diaper patterns, showing no folds. A cope from See also:Hildesheim cathedral, now in the Victoria and Albert Museum, is a typical See also:illustration of such work, dating from the end of the 13th century. It is embroidered in silk upon linen with the martyrdom of apostles and saints. Other specimens of embroidery in this manner may be seen at See also:Halberstadt. An altar-frontal from Rupertsburg (See also:Bingen), belonging to the earlier years of the 13th century, is now in the Brussels museum. It is of purple silk, embroidered with Christ in See also:majesty and figures of saints. It was no doubt made in the time of Siegfried, archbishop of See also:Mainz (1201-1230), who is represented upon it. A type of medieval German embroidery is done in See also: Later German work shows a preference for bold floral patterns, sometimes mingled with See also:heraldry; the larger examples are often worked in wool on a woollen cloth ground (Plate II. fig. 8). The embroidery of the See also:northern nations (See also:Denmark, Scandinavia, See also:Iceland) was later in development than that of the southern peoples. Figure subjects evidently belonging to as late a period as the 17th century are still disposed in formal rows of circles, and accompanied by primitive ornamental forms (Plate III. fig. 12). A remarkable early embroidered fabric covers the relics of St Knud (Canute, king of Denmark, 1o8o-ro86) in his See also:shrine in the church dedicated to him at See also:Odense. It is apparently contemporary work. The pattern consists of displayed eagles within oval compartments, in blue on a red ground. In See also:Greece and the islands of the eastern Mediterranean embroidery has been much employed for the decoration of costumes, portieres and See also:bed-curtains. Large numbers have been acquired in See also:Crete (Plate IV. fig. 16), and patterns of a distinctive character are also found in See also:Rhodes, See also:Cos, See also:Patmos and other islands. Some examples show traces of the influence of the Venetian trading settlements in the See also:archipelago in the 16th and 17th centuries. Among the See also:Turks a great development of the arts followed upon the conquest of Asia Minor and the Byzantine territory in Europe. Their embroideries show a 1Others, sometimes with the same illustrations, appeared in France and See also:Germany, and no doubt forwarded the general tendency towards Italian models at the time. A few pattern-books were also published in England.preference for floral forms—chiefly See also:roses, tulips, carnations and hyacinths—which are treated with great decorative skill. The use of embroidery in Asia—especially in India, See also:China, See also:Turkestan and Persia—dates back to very early times. The conservatism of all these peoples renders the date of surviving examples often difficult to establish, but the greater number of such embroideries now to be seen in Europe are certainly of no great See also:age. India has produced vast quantities of embroideries of varying excellence. The fine woollen shawls of See also:Kashmir are widely famed; their first production is supposed to date back to a remote period. The somewhat See also:gaudy effect of many Indian embroideries is at times intensified by the addition of beetles' wings, tinsel or fragments of looking-See also:glass. China is the See also:original See also:home of the silkworm, and the textile arts there reached an advanced stage at a date long before that of any equally skilful work in Europe. Embroideries worked there are generally in silk threads on a ground of the same material. Such work is largely used for various articles of costume, and for coverlets, screens, See also:banners, See also:chair-covers and table-hangings. The ornaments upon the robes especially are prescribed according to the See also:rank of the wearer. The designs include elaborate landscapes with buildings and figures, dragons, birds, animals, symbolic devices, and especially flowers (Plate III. fig. 1I). Dr Bushell states that the stuff to be embroidered is first stretched upon.a See also:frame, on pivots, and that pattern-books with woodcuts have been published for the workers' guidance. A kind of embroidery exported in large quantities from See also:Canton to Europe rivals painting in the variety and gradation of its colours, and in the smoothness and regularity of its See also:surface. Embroidery in See also:Japan resembles in many ways that of China, the country which probably supplied its first models. As a general rule, See also:Japanese work is more pictorial and fanciful than that of China, and the stitching is looser. It frequently happens that the See also:brush has been used to add to the variety of the embroidered work, and in other cases the needle has been an See also:accessory upon a fabric already ornamented with See also:printing or painting. Japanese work is characterized generally by bold and broad treatment, and especial skill is shown in the representation of landscapes—figures, rocks, waterfalls, animals, birds, trees, flowers and clouds being each rendered by a few lines. More elaborate are the large temple hangings, the pattern being frequently thrown into relief, and completely covering the ground material. Embroidery in See also:Persia has been used to a great extent for the decoration of carpets, for See also:prayer or for use at the See also:bath (Plate V. fig. 17). Robes, hangings, curtains, tablecovers and portieres are also embroidered. A preference is shown for floral patterns, but the Mahommedans of Persia had no scruples about introducing the forms of men and animals—the former engaged in hawking or See also:hunting, or feasting in gardens. Panels embroidered with See also:close See also:diagonal bands of flowers were made into loose See also:trousers for women, now obsolete. The embroidered shawls of See also:Kerman are widely celebrated. Hangings and covers of cloth patchwork have been embroidered in many parts of Persia, more particularly at See also:Resht and Ispahan. In Turkestan, and especially at See also:Bokhara, excellent embroideries have been, and are, produced, some patterns being of a bold floral type, and others conventionalized into hooked and serrated outlines. The work is most usually in bright-coloured silks, red predominating, on a linen material. In See also:North See also:Africa the embroidery of See also:Morocco and See also:Algeria deserves notice; the former inclines more to geometrical forms and the latter to patterns of a floral character. Additional information and CommentsThere are no comments yet for this article.
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