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EDINBURGH , a See also:city and royal See also:burgh, and See also:county of itself, the See also:capital of See also:Scotland, and county See also:town of See also:Edinburghshire or Midlothian, situated to the See also:south of the See also:Firth of Forth, 396 m. by See also:rail N. of See also:London. The old Royal See also:Observatory on Calton See also: Other buildings in the See also:palace Yard include the apartments occupied by the See also:regent,
See also:Mary of See also:Guise, and her daughter Mary, queen of Scots, and the See also:room in which See also: They include the picture See also:gallery, 15o ft. in length, with 1o6 mythical portraits of Scottish See also:kings, and a See also:triptych (c. 1484) containing portraits of James III. and his queen, which is believed to have formed the See also:altar-piece of the collegiate church of the See also:Holy Trinity, founded by the widowed queen of James II. in 1462, demolished in 1848, and afterwards rebuilt, See also: The Advocates' library is the finest in Scotland.
Founded in 1682, at the instance of Sir George See also:Mackenzie, king's See also:advocate under. Charles IL, and then See also:dean of the See also:faculty, it is regarded as the national library, and is one of the five entitled by the See also:Copyright Act to receive :a copy of every See also:work published in Great See also:Britain.
The General See also:Register House for Scotland, begun in 1994 from
publisher, has interesting See also:historical and literary associations, The regent See also:Moray, the See also:marquess of See also:Montrose, and See also:Napier of Merchiston were buried within its walls and are commemorated by monuments, and among the memorial tablets is one to.. R. L. See also:Stevenson by See also:Augustus St Gaudens. The See also:choir (restored in 1873 by public subscription) is a fine example of 15th-See also:century
See also:architecture, and the See also:Gothic See also:crown surmounting the central tower forms one of the most characteristic features in every view of the city. Just outside the church in Parliament Square, the supposed See also:grave of See also: 1835), & National Portrait Gallery . Dr See also: See also:Post See also:Office
.,. St.BI nards Well those of the particular congregations whom each
:8. Wauer,ey station
lq. Caledonian station served. The most imposing structure belonging
ao. Register Office
to the Scottish Episcopal Church isSt Mary's
smervmauer x.
See also:cathedral, built on ground and chiefly from funds See also:left by the Misses See also: The Central Hall atTollcross testifies to Methodist See also:energy. John Knox's house at the east end of High Street is kept in excellent repair, and contains several articles of See also:furniture that belonged to the reformer. The See also:Canon-See also:gate Tolbooth adjoins the See also:parish church, in the See also:burial-ground of which is the tombstone raised by See also:Burns to the memory of Robert See also:Fergusson, and where Dugald See also: St.Glles' Cathedral {. St.Mary's Cathedral 6. Catholic Apostolic Church 6. Parliament House i.'I.mmerslty & Museum designs by Robert Adam, stands at the east end of Princes Street. It contains, in addition to the ancient national records, adequate See also:accommodation, in fireproof See also:chambers, for all Scottish See also:title-deeds, entails, contracts and mortgages, and for general See also:statistics, including those of births, deaths and marriages. The Royal Institution, in the Doric style, surmounted by a See also:colossal stone statue of Queen Victoria by ' Sir John Steell, formerly furnished See also:official accommodation for the See also:Board of Trustees for Manufactures and the Board of See also:Fishery, and also for the school of See also:art, and the libraries and public meetings of the Royal Society (founded in 1783), and the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland(founded in r78o). -In 1910 it was renamed and appropriated to the uses of the Royal Scottish See also:Academy of See also:Painting, See also:Sculpture and Architecture, which was instituted in 1826, and incorporated by royal See also:charter in 1838, on the See also:model of the Royal Academy in London. It is situated on the See also:Mound close to the National Gallery, of which the prince consort laid the See also:foundation stone in 1850. These collections, especially See also:rich in See also:Raeburn's See also:works, include also Alexander See also:Nasmyth's portrait of Robert Burns, See also:Gainsborough's "The Hon. Mrs. See also:Graham" (see PAINTING, See also:Plate VI. fig. 2o), Sir See also:Noel See also:Paton's "See also:Quarrel " and " Reconciliation of See also:Oberon and Titania," several works by William See also:Etty, Robert Scott See also:Lauder and Sam Bough, Sir See also:Edwin See also:Landseer's " See also:Rent Day in the See also:Wilderness," and the diploma pictures of the academicians, besides many specimens of the modern Scottish school. The National Portrait Gallery and Antiquarian Museum are housed in Queen Street, in a building designed by Sir Rowand See also: See also:Patrick See also:Geddes (b. 1854), See also:grew out of the " See also:goose-See also:pie " house where See also:Allan Ramsay lived, and with its red-tiled roof and effective lines adds warmth to the view of the Old Town from Princes Street. Not the least interesting structure is the old City See also:Cross (restored at the cost of W. E. Gladstone), which stands in High Street, adjoining St Giles's. Several of the See also:quaint groups of buildings of Auld Reekie have been carefully restored, such as the See also: Burns's monument, in the style of a See also:Greek See also:temple, occupies a prominent position on the Regent Road, on the See also:southern brow of the See also:lower See also:terrace of Calton Hill. It was originally intended to form a See also:shrine for See also:Flaxman's See also:marble statue of the poet (now in the National Portrait Gallery), but it proved to be too confined to afford a satisfactory view of the sculptor's work and was at length converted into a museum of Burnsiana (afterwards re-moved to the municipal buildings). On Calton Hill are a number of finely placed monuments. The stateliest is the national monument to commemorate the victory of See also:Waterloo, originally intended to be a See also:reproduction of the See also:Parthenon. The plan was abandoned for lack of funds, after twelve out of the twenty-four Greek pillars had been erected, but it is perhaps more effective in its unfinished state than if it had been completed. The Nelson monument, an elongated turreted structure, stands on the highest cliff of the hill. Close by is the monument to Dugald Stewart, a copy of the choragic monument of Lysicrates. Sir John Steell's equestrian statue of the See also:duke of See also:Wellington stands in front of the Register House, and in Princes Street Gardens are statues of See also:Livingstone, See also:Christopher North, Allan Ramsay, Adam Black and Sir J. Y. See also:Simpson. In George Street are See also:Chantrey's figures of Pitt and George IV., and a statue of Dr See also:Chalmers; the 5th duke of See also:Buccleuch stands beside St Giles's. Charles II. surveys the spot where Knox was buried; the reformer himself is in the quadrangle of New College: Sir David See also:Brewster adorns the quadrangle of the university; Dr William Chambers is in Chambers Street; and See also:Frederick, duke of York (1763-1827), and the 4th earl of Hopetoun are also commemorated. Cemeteries.—Obviously the churchyards surrounding the older and more important parish churches—such as Greyfriars', St Cuthbert's and the Canongate, contain the greatest number of memorials of the illustrious dead. In Greyfriars' See also:churchyard the See also:Solemn See also:League and See also:Covenant was signed, and among its many monuments are the Martyrs' monument, recording the merits of the murdered See also:covenanters, and the See also:tomb of " Bluidy " Mackenzie. To the three named should be added the Calton burying-ground, with its See also:Roman tomb of David See also:Hume, and the See also:obelisk raised in 1844 to the memory of See also:Maurice Margarot, Thomas See also:Muir (1765-1798), Thomas Fyshe See also:Palmer (1747-1802), William See also:Skirving and See also:Joseph Gerrald (1765-1796), the See also:political martyrs transported towards the end of the 18th century for advocating See also:parliamentary reform. The Scottish dead in the See also:American See also:Civil See also:War are commemorated in a monument bearing a See also:life-sized figure of See also:Abraham See also:Lincoln and a freed slave. The cemeteries are all modern. In See also:Warriston cemetery (opened in 1843) in the New Town, were buried Sir James See also:Young Simpson, Alexander Smith the poet, Horatio McCulloch, R.S.A., the landscape painter, the Rev. James See also:Millar, the last Presbyterian See also:chaplain of the castle, and the Rev. James Peddie, the pastor of Bristo Street church. In Dean cemetery, partly laid out on the See also:banks of the Water of Leith, and considered the most beautiful in the city (opened 1845), were interred Lords See also:Cockburn, Jeffrey and See also:Rutherford; " Christopher North," See also:Professor See also:Aytoun, Edward Forbes the naturalist, John See also:Goodsir the anatomist; Sir William Allan, Sam Bough, George Paul Chalmers, the painters; George See also:Combe, the phrenologist; See also:Playfair, the architect; Alexander Russel, editor of the Scots-man; Sir Archibald Alison, the historian; See also:Captain John See also: Parks and Open Spaces.—Edinburgh is exceptionally well provided with parks and open spaces. The older are Princes Street Gardens, covering the old Nor' Loch, Calton Hill, the Meadows and the Bruntsfield Links. The municipal See also:golf links are on the Braid Hills. On the southern side Blackford Hill has been set apart for public use. Here stands the Royal Observatory, in which the great Dunecht See also:telescope was erected in 1896. See also:Harrison Park is a breathing spot for the congested See also:district of Fountainbridge, and the park at Saughton Hall, opened in 1905, for the western district of the city. To the north of the Water of Leith See also:lie Inverleith Park, the See also:Arboretum and the Royal Botanical See also:Garden. This institution has undergone four changes of site since its foundation in 1670 by Sir Andrew See also:Balfour and Sir Robert See also:Sibbald, and now occupies an area of 34 acres in Inverleith See also:Row. It includes a See also:herbarium and See also:palm house, with an extensive range of hot-houses, a museum of economic See also:botany, a lecture-room and other requisites for the study of botany. The most important open spaces, however, surround Arthur's Seat (822 ft.). This basaltic hill, the name of which is believed to commemorate the British king Arthur, who from its height is said to have watched the defeat of the Picts by his followers, is shaped like a See also:lion couchant, with head towards the north. It is separated from the narrow valley, in which lie the Canongate and Holyrood Palace, by See also:Salisbury Crags, named after Edward III.'s general William Montacute, 1st earl of Salisbury (1301-1344). At their base is the Queen's Drive (31 M. long), named by Queen Victoria. Adjoining Holyrood Palace is the King's Park, used as a parade ground. Facing the crags on the south-west are the spots See also:familiar to readers of The Heart of Midlothian, where stood Jeanie Deans's cottage, and between the crags and Arthur's Seat lies See also:Hunter's See also:Bog, used as a See also:shooting range. Near here too are three small lakes, Duddingston, Dunsappie and St Margaret's, the last overlooked by the ruins of St See also:Anthony's chapel. Environs.—In several directions many places once to be described among the environs have practically become suburbs of Edinburgh. See also:Newhaven (See also:population of parish, 7636), so called from the See also:harbour constructed in the reign of James IV., had a See also:shipbuilding yard of some repute in former times. The See also:village has always been a fishing-place of importance, the " fishwives " in their picturesque garb being, till recently, conspicuous figures in the streets of the capital. It used to be a popular resort for See also:fish dinners, and it plays a prominent part in Charles See also:Reade's novel of See also:Christie See also:Johnstone. To the west lies Granton (pop. 1728), where the 5th duke of Buccleuch constructed a magnificent harbour. Before the building of the Forth Bridge the customary approach to Fifeshire and the north-east of Scotland was by means of a See also:steam See also:ferry from Granton to See also:Burntisland, which is still used to some extent. There is regular communication with See also:Iceland, the See also:continental ports and London. A marine station here was established by Sir John See also: 1946), the seat of the earl of See also:Morton, are preserved the only extant copy of the See also:bible of the Scottish parliament and the original See also:warrant for committing Queen Mary to Lochleven Castle in Kinross-See also:shire. Craigmillar, though situated in the parish of Liberton, is really a part of Edinburgh. Its picturesque castle, at least the oldest portion of it, probably dates from the 12th century. Its See also:principal owners were first the Prestons and latterly the Gilmours. After playing a varied role in See also:local and national See also:story, now as banqueting-house and now as prison, it See also:fell gradually into disrepair. It was advertised as to let in 1761, and early in the 19th century, along with the chapel adjoining, was in ruins, but has been restored by See also:Colonel Gordon-Gilmour. It was a favourite residence of Mary See also:Stuart, and its associations with the hapless queen give it a romantic interest. Duddingston (pop. 2023), once a quiet village, has become a centre of the distilling and See also:brewing See also:industries. The parish church, effectively situated on an See also:eminence by the side of the See also:lake, was the scene of the ministration of the Rev. John See also:Thomson (1778-1840), the landscape painter, who numbered Sir Walter Scott among his elders. Duddingston House is a seat of the duke of See also:Abercorn. Liberton (pop. of parish, 7233), a name that recalls the previous existence of a leper's hospital, is prominently situated on the rising ground to the southof Edinburgh, the parish church being a conspicuous landmark. Adjoining is the village of Gilmerton (pop. 1482), which used to See also:supply Edinburgh with yellow See also:sand, when sanded floors were a feature in'the humbler class of houses. Portobello (pop. 9180), being within 3 M. of the capital, must always enjoy a large See also:share of public patronage, though it is not in such favour as a watering-place as it once was. Its beautiful stretch of sands is flanked by a See also:promenade extending all the way to See also:Joppa. The See also:beach was at one See also:time used for the purpose of reviews of the See also:yeomanry. The town dates from the See also:middle of the 18th century, when a cottage was built by a sailor and named Portobello in See also:commemoration of See also:Admiral See also:Vernon's victory in 1739. The place does a considerable See also:trade in the making of bricks, bottles, earthenware, pottery, tiles and See also:paper. Joppa, which adjoins it, has See also:salt works, but is chiefly a residential neighbourhood. Inveresk (pop. 2939), finely situated on the Esk some 6 m. from Edinburgh, is a quaint village with several old-fashioned mansions and beautiful gardens. Alexander Carlyle, the famous divine (1772-1805), whose Memorials of his Times still affords fascinating See also:reading, ministered for fifty-five years in the parish church, in the graveyard of which lies David See also:Macbeth See also:Moir (1798-1851), who under the See also:pen-name of " See also:Delta " wrote Mansie Wauch, a masterpiece of Scots See also:humour and pathos. Lasswade (pop. of parish, 9708), partly in the Pentlands, famous for its oatmeal, was often the summer resort of Edinburgh worthies. Here Sir Walter Scott lived for six years and De Quincey for nineteen, and William See also:Tennant (1784-1848), author of Anster See also:Fair, was the parish dominie. Many interesting mansions were and are in the vicinity, amongst them Melville Castle, the seat of the Dundas Melvilles, and Auchendinny, where See also: The Gothic details are wonderful examples of the See also:carver's skill, the wreathed " Prentice's See also:pillar " being the subject of a well-known legend. The walk to Hawthornden, about 1i m. distant, through the lovely glen by the river-side, leads to the mansion of the Drummonds, perched high on a lofty cliff falling sheer to the stream. The caverns in the sides of the precipice are said to have afforded See also:Wallace and other heroes (or outlaws) See also:refuge in time of trouble, but the old house is most memorable as the home of the poet William See also:Drummond, who here welcomed See also:Ben See also:Jonson; the See also:tree beneath which the two poets sat still stands. Near Swanston, on the slopes of the Pentlands, where R. L. Stevenson when a boy used to make See also:holiday occasionally, is a golf-course which was laid out by the Lothianburn See also:Club. The Pentland range contains many points of interest and beauty, but these are mostly accessible only to the pedestrian, although the hills are crossed by roads, of which the chief are those by See also:Glencorse See also:burn and the Cauld Stane Slap. Habbie's See also:Howe, the scene of Allan Ramsay's See also:pastoral The See also:Gentle Shepherd, is some 2 M. from Carlops, and Rullion See also:Green is noted as the See also: The town is, industrially, remarkable for its paper See also:mills and mines of See also:coal and other minerals. Communications.—The two See also:trunk See also:railways serving Edinburgh are the North British and the Caledonian. The North British station is Waverley, to which the trains of the Great See also:Northern, North Eastern and the Midland systems run from See also:England. The Caledonian station is Princes Street, where the through trains from the London & North-Western See also:system of England arrive. Leith, Granton and See also:Grangemouth serve as the chief passenger seaports for Edinburgh. Tramways connect the different parts of the city with Leith, Newhaven, Portobello and Joppa; and the Suburban railway, starting from Waverley station, returns by way of Restalrig, Portobello, Duddingston, Morningside andHaymarket. In summer, steamers ply between Leith and See also:Aberdour and other See also:pleasure resorts; and there is also a service to See also:Alloa and See also:Stirling. In the See also:season brakes constantly run to See also:Queensferry (for the Forth Bridge) and to Roslin, and coaches to Dalkeith, Loanhead and some Pentland villages. Population.—In x8or the number of inhabitants was 66,544; in 1851 it was 160,302; in 1881 it was 234,402; and in 1901 it was 316,479. In 'goo the See also:birth-See also:rate was 26.90 per thousand, 7.8% of the births being illegitimate; the death-rate was 19.40 per thousand, and the See also:marriage-rate ro per thousand. The area of the city has been enlarged by successive extensions of its municipal boundaries, especially towards the west and south. An important See also:accession of territory was gained in 1896, when portions of the parishes of Liberton and Duddingston and the See also:police burgh of Portobello were incorporated. Under the Edinburgh See also:Corporation Act 1900, a further addition of nearly 1800 acres was made. This embraced portions of South Leith parish (landward) and of Duddingston parish, including the village of Restalrig and the ground lying on both sides of the See also:main road from Edinburgh to Portobello; and also part of Cramond parish, in which is contained the village and harbour of Granton. The See also:total area of the city is 10,5971 acres. The increase in See also:wealth may best be measured by the rise in assessed valuation. In x88o the city rental was £1,727,740, in 1890 it was £2,106,395, and in 1900-1901 £2,807,122. Government.—By the Redistribution Act of 1885 the city was divided for parliamentary purposes into East, West, Central and South Edinburgh, each returning one member; the parliamentary and municipal boundaries are almost identical. The town See also:council, which has its headquarters in the Municipal Buildings in the Royal See also:Exchange, consists of fifty members, a lord See also:provost, seven bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, a convener of trades, seven See also:judges of police, and See also:thirty-two councillors. The corporation has acquired the See also:gas-works, the See also:cable tram-ways (leased to a See also:company), the electric See also:lighting of the streets, and the water-supply from the Pentlands (reinforced b). additional See also:sources in the Moorfoot Hills and Talla Water). Among other duties, the corporation has a share in the management of the university, and maintains the Calton Hill observatory. May Meetings.—During the See also:establishment of See also:Episcopacy in Scotland, Edinburgh was the seat of a See also:bishop, and the ancient collegiate church of St Giles See also:rose to the dignity of a cathedral. But the See also:annual meeting of the General See also:Assembly of the Church of Scotland at Edinburgh is now the public manifestation of the predominance of See also:Presbyterianism as the national church. In May each year the See also:sovereign appoints a representative as lord high See also:commissioner to the General Assembly of the Established Church, who takes up his See also:abode usually in the palace of Holyrood, and thence proceeds to the High Church, and so to the assembly hall on the Castle Hill. The lord provost and magistrates offer to him the keys of the.city, and levees, receptions and state dinners revive in some degree the ancient glories of Holyrood. The General Assembly of the United Free Church is usually held at the same time. University.—The university of Edinburgh, the youngest of the Scottish See also:universities, was founded in 1583 by a royal charter granted by James IV., and its rights, immunities and privileges have been remodelled, ratified and extended at various periods. In 1621 an act of the Scottish parliament accorded to the university all rights and privileges enjoyed by other universities in the See also:kingdom, and these were renewed under fresh guarantees in the treaty of union between England and Scotland, and in the Act of See also:Security. Important changes were made in the See also:con-stitution by acts passed in 1858 and 1889. It was one of the first universities to admit See also:women students to its classes and degrees, and its alumni are brought into close bonds of sympathy and activity by a students' union. The number of students averages nearly three thousand a year. As a corporation it consists of a See also:chancellor, See also:vice-chancellor, lord rector (elected by the students every three years), principal, professors, registered graduates and matriculated students. The chancellor is elected for life by the general council, of which he is head; and the rights of the city as the original founder have been recognized by giving to the town council the election of four of the seven curators, with whom rest the See also:appointment of the principal, the patronage of seventeen of the chairs, and a share in other appointments. Along with that of St See also:Andrews, the university sends one member to parliament. While the college, as such, bears the name of the College of King James, or King's college, and James VI. is spoken of as its founder, it really originated in the liberality of the citizens of Edinburgh. William Little of Craigmillar, and his See also:brother See also:Clement Little, advocate, along with James See also:Lawson, the colleague and successor of John Knox, may justly be regarded as true founders. In 158o Clement Little gave all his books, three See also:hundred volumes, for the beginning of a library, and this was augmented by other valuable benefactions, one of the most interesting of which was the library of Drummond of Hawthornden. The library now contains upwards of 220,000 volumes, and more than 7000 MSS. The buildings of the university occupy the site of the ancient collegiate church of St. Mary in the Field (the "See also:Kirk of Field"), the scene of the murder of See also:Darnley. The See also:present structure, the foundation-stone of which was laid in 1789, is a classical building, enclosing an extensive quadrangle. The older parts of it, including the east front, are from the deign of Robert Adam, his plans being revised and modified by W. H. Playfair (1789-1857), but it was not till 1883 that the building was completed by the See also:dome, crowned by the See also:bronze figure of Youth bearing the See also:torch of Knowledge, on the See also:facade in South Bridge Street. This edifice affords accommodation for the lecture rooms in the faculties of arts, law and See also:theology, and for the museums and library. The opening up of the wide thoroughfare of Chambers Street, on the site of College Wynd and See also: The university benefits also, like the other Scottish universities, from Mr Andrew Carnegie's endowment fund. The medical school stands in See also:Teviot Row, adjoining George Square and the Meadows. To this spacious and well-equipped group of buildings the faculty of See also:medicine was removed from the college. The medical school is in the See also:Italian See also:Renaissance style from the designs of Sir Rowand Anderson. The magnificent hall used for academic and public functions was the See also:gift of William M'Ewan, some time M.P. for the Central See also:division of Edinburgh. Closely associated with the medical school, and separated from it by the Middle Meadow Walk, is the Royal Infirmary, designed by David See also:Bryce, R.S.A. (1803-1876), removed hither from Infirmary Street. Its wards, in which nearly ten thousand patients receive treatment annually, are lodged in a See also:series of turreted pavilions, and See also:cover a large space of ground on the margin of the Meadows, from which, to make room for it, George Watson's College—the most important of the See also:Merchant Company schools—was removed to a site farther west, while the Sick See also:Children's hospital was moved to the southern side of the Meadows. Scientific Institutions.—The old Observatory is a quaint structure on Calton Hill, overlooking the district at the head of Leith Walk. The City Observatory stands close by, and on Blackford Hill is the newer building of the Royal Observatory. The Astronomer-Royal for Scotland also holds the See also:chair of See also:practical See also:astronomy. The museum and lecture-rooms of the Royal College of Surgeons occupy a handsome classical building in See also:Nicolson Street. The college is an ancient corporate See also:body, with a charter of the year 1505, and exercises the See also:powers of instructing in See also:surgery and of giving degrees. Its graduates also give lectures on the various branches of medicine and science requisite for the degree of See also:doctor of medicine, and those extra-academical courses are recognized, under certain restrictions, by the University Court, as qualifying for the degree. The museum contains a valuable collection of anatomical and surgical preparations. The Royal College of Physicians is another learned body organized, with See also:special privileges, by a charter of See also:incorporation granted by Charles II. in 1681. In their hall in Queen Street are a valuable library and a museum of materia medica. But the college as such takes no part in the educational work of the university. Educational Institutions.—After the Disruption in 1843, and the formation of the Free Church, New College was founded in connexion with it for training students in theology. Since the amalgamation of the United Presbyterian and the Free Churches, under the designation of the United Free Church of Scotland, New College is utilized by both bodies. New College buildings, designed in the Pointed style of the 16th century, and erected on the site of the palace of Mary of Guise, occupy a prominent position at the head of the Mound. Edinburgh has always possessed exceptional educational facilities. The Royal high school, the burgh school See also:par excellence, dates from the 16th century, but the beautiful Grecian buildings on the southern See also:face of Calton Hill, opened in 1829, are its third habitation. It was not until 1825, when the Edinburgh Academy was opened, that it encountered serious rivalry. Fettes College, an imposing structure in a 16th-century semi-Gothic style, designed by David Bryce and called after its founder Sir William Fettes (1750-1836), is organized on the model of the great English public See also:schools. Merchiston Academy, housed in the old castle of Napier, the inventor of logarithms, is another institution conducted on English public school lines. For many generations the charitable See also:foundations for the teaching and training of youth were a conspicuous feature in the See also:economy of the city. Foremost among them was the hospital founded by George Heriot—the " Jingling Geordie " of Scott's Fortunes of Nigel—the See also:goldsmith and banker of James VI. At his death in 1624 Heriot left his See also:estate in See also:trust to the magistrates and ministers of Edinburgh for the See also:maintenance and teaching of poor fatherless sons of freemeq. The quadrangular edifice in Lauriston, sometimes ascribed to Inigo See also: Public See also:opinion as to the " hospital " system of board and education, however, underwent a revolutionary See also:change after the Education Act of 1872 introduced school boards, and the Merchant Company—acting as See also:governors for most of the institutions—determined to board out the children on the foundation with families in the town, and convert the buildings into adequately equipped See also:primary and secondary day-schools. This See also:root-and-See also:branch policy proved enormously successful, and George Watson's college, Stewart's college, Queen Street ladies' college, George Square ladies' college, Gillespie's school, and others, rapidly took a high place among the educational institutions of the city. Nor did the Heriot Trust neglect the claims of technical and higher education. The Heriot-Watt college is subsidized by the Trust, and Heriot's hospital is occupied as a technical school. Concurrently with this activity in higher branches, the school board provided a large number of handsome buildings in healthy surroundings. The Church of Scotland and the United Free Church have training colleges. Charities.—Besides the Royal Infirmary there are a consider-able number of more or less specialized institutions, two of the most important being situated at Craiglockhart. On the See also:Easter Hill stands the Royal Edinburgh See also:asylum for the insane, which formerly occupied a site in Morningside, while the City infectious diseases hospital is situated at Colinton Mains. The Royal See also:blind asylum at Powburn in its earlier days tenanted humbler quarters in Nicolson Street. Chalmers's hospital in Lauriston was founded in 1836 by George Chalmers for the reception of the sick and injured. The home for incurables is situated in Salisbury Place. The infirmary convalescents are sent to the convalescent house in Corstorphine. Other institutions are the Royal hospital for sick children, the home for crippled children, the Royal maternity hospital, and the deaf and dumb asylum. Though Trinity hospital no longer exists as a hospital with See also:resident pensioners, the trustees disburse annually See also:pensions to certain poor burgesses and their wives and children; and the trust controlling the benevolent branch of the Gillespie hospital endowment is similarly administered. Industries.—Although Edinburgh is a residential rather than a manufacturing or commercial centre, the industries which it has are important and flourishing. From 1507, when Walter See also:Chapman, the Scottish See also:Caxton, set up the first See also:press, to the present day, See also:printing has enjoyed a career of almost continuous vitality, and the great houses of R. & R. See also:Clark, T. & A. See also:Constable, the Ballantyne Press, See also:Morrison & Gibb, Turnbull & Spears, Ad others, admirably maintain the traditional reputation of the Edinburgh press. See also:Publishing, on the other See also:hand, has drifted away, only a few leading houses—such as those of See also:Blackwood, Chambers and Nelson—still making the Scottish capital their headquarters. Mapmakers, typefounders, bookbinders and lithographers all contribute their share to the prosperity of the city. Brewing is an industry of exceptional vigour, Edinburgh See also:ale being proverbially good. The brewers and distillers, such as M'Ewan, Usher and Ure, have been amongst the most generous benefactors of the city. The arts and crafts associated with furniture work, paper-making and See also:coach-building may also be specified, whilst tanneries, glassworks, See also:india-See also:rubber and vulcanite factories, See also:brass-founding, machinery works, the making of biscuits, See also:tea-See also:bread and See also:confectionery are all prominent. In consequence of the large influx of tourists every year the North British and Caledonian railway companies give employment to an enormous See also:staff. Building and the allied trades are chronic-ally brisk, owing to the See also:constant development of the city. Fine white freestone abounds in the immediate vicinity (as at Craigleith, from the vast See also:quarry of which, now passing into disuse, the stone for much of the New Town was obtained) and furnishes excellent building material; while the hard See also:trap rock, with which the stratified sandstones of the Coal formation have been extensively broken up and overlaid, supplies good materials for paving and road-making. On this See also:account See also:quarrying is another industry which is seldom dormant. Owing to the great changes effected during the latter part of the 19th century, some of the old markets were demolished and the system of centralizing trade was not wholly revived. The Waverley Market for vegetables and See also:fruit presents a busy scene in the early See also:morning, and is used for See also:monster meetings and promenade and popular concerts. Slaughter-houses, See also:cattle markets and -See also:grain markets have been erected at Gorgie, thus obviating the See also:driving of flocks and herds through the streets, which was constantly objected to. An See also:infantry See also:regiment is always stationed in the castle, and there are in addition the See also:barracks at Piers-hill (or " Jock's See also:Lodge "), half-way between Edinburgh and Portobello. Social Life.—Edinburgh society still retains a certain old-fashioned Scottish exclusiveness. It has been said that the city is " east-windy " and the folk " west-endy." But this See also:criticism needs judicious qualification. The local patriotism and good taste of the citizens have regulated. recreation and have also preserved in pristine vigour many peculiarly Scottish customs and pastimes. Classical concerts and concerts of the better sort, chiefly held in the M`Ewan and Music Halls, are well attended, and lectures are patronized to a degree unknown in most towns. In theatrical matters in the old days of stock companies the See also:verdict of an Edinburgh See also:audience was held to make or See also:mar an actor or a See also:play. This is no longer the See also:case, but the See also:Lyceum See also:theatre in Grindlay Street and the Theatre Royal at the head of Leith Walk give good performances. Variety entertainments are also in See also:vogue, and in Nicolson Street and elsewhere there are good music halls. Outdoor recreations have always been pursued with zest. The public golf-course on Braid Hills and the private courses of the Lothianburn club at Swanston and the Barnton club at Barnton are usually full on Saturdays and holidays. The numerous See also:bowling-greens are regularly frequented and are among the best in Scotland—the first Australian team of bowlers that visited the See also:mother See also:country (in Igor) pronouncing the green in Lutton Place the finest on which they had played. See also:Cricket is played by the university students, at the schools, and by private clubs, of which the Grange is the oldest and best. In See also:winter the See also:game of See also:curling is played on Duddingston Loch, and Dunsappie, St Margaret's Loch, Lochend and other sheets of water are covered with skaters. See also:Rugby See also:football is in high favour, Edinburgh being commonly the scene of the See also:international matches when the See also:venue falls to Scotland. See also:Hockey claims many votaries, there usually being on New Year's day a match at shinty, or camanachd, between opposing teams of Highlanders resident in the city. The central public See also:baths in Infirmary Street, with branch establishments in other parts of the town, including Portobello, are largely resorted to, and the proximity of the Firth of Forth induces the keener swimmers to visit Granton every morning. Facilities for boating are limited (excepting on the Forth), but See also:rowing clubs find opportunity for practice and races on the Union See also:Canal, where, however, sailing is scarcely possible. Edinburgh maintains few See also:newspapers, but the Scotsman, which may be said to reign alone, has enjoyed a career of almost uninterrupted prosperity, largely in consequence of a See also:succession of able editors, like Charles Maclar..n, Alexander Russel, Robert Wallace and Charles See also: The southern Picts ultimately subdued the Britons, and the castle became their chief stronghold until they were overthrown in 617 (or 629) by the See also:Saxons under Edwin, king of See also:Northumbria, from whom the name of Edinburgh is derived. Symeon of See also:Durham (854) calls it Edwinesburch, and includes the church of St Cuthbert within the bishopric of Lindisfarne. Its Gaelic name was See also:Dunedin. This name is probably a See also:translation of the Saxon name. James Grant's view that it may have been the earlier name of the castle, from dun (" the fort "), and edin (" on the slope "), conflicts with the more generally received opinion that the Britons knew the fortress as Castelh Mynedh Agnedh (" the hill of the plain "), a designation once wrongly interpreted as the " castle of the maidens " (castrum puellaricm), in allusion to the supposed fact that the Pictish princesses were lodged within it during their education. In the 16th century the latinized form Edina was invented and has been used chiefly by poets, once notably by Burns, whose " Address " begins " Edina! See also:Scotia's See also:darling seat." Long after Edwin's See also:conquest the See also:lowland continued to be debatable territory held by uncertain See also:tenure, but at length it was to a large extent settled anew by Anglo-Saxon and See also:Norman colonists under Malcolm Canmore and his sons. In the reign of Malcolm Canmore the castle included the king's palace. There his pious queen, Margaret, the See also:grand-niece of Edward the See also:Confessor, died in 1093. It continued to be a royal residence during the reigns of her three sons. and hence the first rapid growth of the upper town may oe referred to the 12th century. The parish church of St Giles is believed to have been erected. in the reign of Alexander I., about 1110, and the huge Norman keep of the castle, built by his younger brother, David I., continued to be known as David's Tower till its destruction in the See also:siege of 1572. Soon after his accession to the Scottish throne David I. founded the abbey of Holyrood (1128), which from an early date received the court as its guests. But notwithstanding the attractions of the abbey and the neighbouring See also:chase, the royal palace continued for centuries to be within the fortress, and there both the See also:Celtic and Stuart kings frequently resided. Edinburgh was long an exposed frontier town within a territory only ceded to Malcolm II. about 1020 and even under the earlier Stuart kings it was still regarded as a border stronghold. Hence, though the village of Canongate grew up beside the abbey of David I., and Edinburgh was a place of sufficient importance to be reckoned one of the four principal burghs as a judicatory for all commercial matters, nevertheless, even so See also:late as 1450, when, it became for the first time a walled town, it did not extend beyond the upper part of the ridge which slopes eastwards from the castle. So long, however, as its walls formed the boundary, and space therefore was limited, the citizens had to provide house-room by building dwellings of many storeys. These tall tenements on both sides of what is now High Street and Canon-gate are still a prominent characteristic of the Old Town. The streets were mostly very narrow, the main street from the castle to Holyrood Palace and the Cowgate alone permitting the passage of wheeled carriages. In the narrow " wynds " the See also:nobility and gentry paid their visits in See also:sedan chairs, and proceeded in full See also:dress to the assemblies and Calls, which were conducted with aristocratic exclusiveness in an See also:alley on the south side of High Street, called the Assembly Close, and in the assembly rooms in the West Bow. Beyond the walls See also:lay the burghs of Calton, Easter and Wester Portsburgh, the villages of St Cuthbert's, 944 Moutrie'sHill,Broughton,Canonmills, Silvermills andDeanhaugh —all successively swallowed up in the See also:extension of the modern city. The seaport of Leith, though a distinct burgh, governed by its own magistrates, and electing its own representative to parliament, has also on its southern side become practically united to its great See also:neighbour. The other three royal burghs associated with Edinburgh were Stirling, Roxburgh and See also:Berwick; and their enactments form the earliest existing collected body of Scots law. The determination of Edinburgh as the national capital, and as the most frequent scene of parliamentary assemblies, dates from the death of James I. in 1436. Of the thirteen parliaments summoned by that sovereign, only one, the last, was held at Edinburgh, but his assassination in the Blackfriars' monastery at See also:Perth led to the abrupt See also:transfer of the court and capital from the See also:Tay to the Forth. The See also:coronation of James II. was celebrated in Holyrood Abbey instead of at See also:Scone, and the widowed queen took up her residence, with the young king, in the castle. Of fourteen parliaments summoned during this reign, only one was held at Perth, five met at Stirling and the rest at Edinburgh; and, notwithstanding the favour shown for Stirling as a royal residence in the following reign, every one of the parliaments of James III. was held at Edinburgh. James II. conferred on the city various privileges See also:relating to the holding of fairs and markets, and the levying of customs; and by a royal charter of 1452 he gave it pre-eminence over the other burghs. Further immunities and privileges were granted by James III.; and by a See also:precept of 1482, known as the See also:Golden Charter, he bestowed on the provost and magistrates the hereditary office of sheriff, with See also:power to hold courts, to See also:levy fines, and to impose duties on all merchandise landed at the port of Leith. Those privileges were renewed and extended by various sovereigns, and especially by a general charter granted by James VI. in 1603. James III. was a great builder, and, in the prosperous era which followed his son's accession to the throne, the town reached the open valley to the south, with the Cowgate as its chief thoroughfare. But the death of James IV. in 1513, along with other disastrous results of the See also:battle of See also:Flodden, brought this era of prosperity to an abrupt close. The citizens hastened to construct a second See also:line of See also:wall, enclosing the Cowgate and the heights beyond, since occupied by Greyfriars church@s and Heriot's hospital, but still excluding the Canongate, as pertaining to the abbey of Holyrood. In the 16th century the movements connected with John Knox and Mary, queen of Scots, made Edinburgh a castle of much activity. With the departure, however, of the See also:sixth James to fill the English throne in 1603, the town lost for a long See also:period its influence and See also:prestige. Matters were not bettered by the Act of Union signed in a cellar in High Street in 1707, amidst the execrations of the See also:people, and it was not till the hopes of the See also:Jacobites were blasted at Culloden (1746) that the townsfolk began to accept the inevitable. This See also:epoch, when grass grew even in High Street, long lingered in the popular memory as the " dark See also:age." By the accession of George III. (1760), Edinburgh showed signs of revived enterprise. In 1763 the first North Bridge, connecting the Old Town with the sloping ground on which after-wards stood the Register House and the theatre in See also:Shakespeare Square, was opened; a little later the Nor' Loch was partially drained, and the bridging of the Cowgate in 1785 encouraged expansion southwards. Towards the end of the 18th century the New Town began to take shape on the grand, if formal, lines which had been planned by James See also:Craig (d. 1795), the architect, See also:nephew of the poet Thomson, and the erection of Regent Bridge in Waterloo Place (formally opened in 1819 on the occasion of the visit of Prince See also:Leopold, afterwards king of the Belgians) gave See also:access to Calton Hill. The creation of Princes Street, one of the most beautiful thoroughfares in the world, led to further improvement. The See also:earth and debris from the excavation of the sites for the houses in this and adjoining streets had been " dumped " in the centre of the drained Nor' Loch. This unsightly mass of rubbish lay for a while as an See also:eye-sore, until the happy thought arose of converting it into a broadway joining the new road at See also:Hanover Street with the Old Town at the Lawnmarket. Upon this street, which divides Princes Street and its gardens into east and west, and which received the title of the Mound, were erected the National Gallery and the Royal Institution. Speaking generally, the New Town was resorted to by professional men—lawyers, doctors and artists,—and in its principal streets will be found the head offices of the leading banks and See also:insurance offices, all lodged in buildings of remarkable architectural pretensions. The Commercial, the Union and the Clydesdale banks are in George Street, the National Bank of Scotland, the Royal Bank of Scotland, and the British See also:Linen Company's Bank are in St Andrew Square, the Bank of Scotland is at the head of the Mound. The extensive building operations engaged in by the town council in the early part of the 19th century resulted in the insolvency of the city in 1833. The See also:property of the corporation was valued at £271,658 against a debt of £425,195, which was compounded for by the issue of 3 % See also:annuity bonds—the loss to the creditors amounting to 25% of their claims. Meanwhile the progress of letters, science and learning manifested the recovery of the city. The names of Knox (d. 1572), See also:Buchanan (1582), Alexander See also:Montgomery (16o5), Drummond of Hawthornden (1649), Allan Ramsay (1757), See also:Smollett (1771), Fergusson (1774), and Burns (1796), carried on the literary associations of the Scottish capital nearly to the close of the 18th century, when various causes combined to give them new significance and value. The university was served by a body of teachers and investigators who won for it a prominent position among See also:European schools. Then succeeded the era of Scott's Marmion and The See also:Lady of the Lake, followed by the Waverley novels and the foundation of Blackwood's See also:Magazine and the Edinburgh Review. Modern conditions have changed the character of Edinburgh society.' In Scott's early days a See also:journey to London was beset with difficulties and even dangers; but railways have now brought it within a few See also:hours' distance, and Scottish artists and literary men are tempted to seek a wider field. Nevertheless, the influence of the past survives in many ways. Edinburgh is not markedly a manufacturing city, but preserves its character as the Scottish capital. Additional information and CommentsThere are no comments yet for this article.
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